Patent Grant
11952682
The present invention relates to a method for making cotton-based elasticised yarns, and also relates to environment-friendly elasticised fabrics made therefrom.
Elasticised fabrics are used in a wide range of applications. In particular, elasticised fabrics are used to manufacture garments that do not hinder the movements of the user's limbs, or conform themselves to these movements, which generates a comfort sensation to the user. This feature is particularly appreciated in underwear clothing or in sport and gym clothes, but is also useful in everyday-life situations such as sitting in a car, walking, and whenever the joints are bent. Elasticised fabrics are also advantageously used to make tight coverings for rounded objects, e.g. sofa and armchairs coverings.
The features of an elasticised fabrics depend on the high elasticity of the elasticised yarns used for their manufacture. For instance, U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,992,150, 3,380,244, EP 2 145 034 and EP 2 638 192 describe elasticised ring-spun yarns, or the like, in which an elastic filament is surrounded by a fibrous sheath comprising a mass of synthetic or natural staple fibres. In a few cases, cotton fibres are used.
Moreover, denim-type elasticised fabrics have been known and appreciated for some years. By these fabrics, the above-mentioned advantages of elasticised fabrics could be extended to jeans garments. For example, EP 2 145 034 and EP 2 638 192 relate to these fabrics.
However, the elastic threads conventionally used to make elasticised yarns are made of synthetic materials, in particular the above-mentioned patent literature relates to polyurethane or polyolefin elastic materials. Therefore, the articles comprising fabrics made from cotton and elastic thread cannot be easily disposed, in particular they cannot be disposed by composting. Moreover, the synthetic elastic thread can be allergenic to some skin-sensitive people wearing garments manufactured from fabrics containing them.
In order to mitigate the above drawbacks, an alternative to synthetic elastic threads could be the use of natural rubber elastic threads. However, currently available natural rubber threads have a linear mass density too high to be used to make elasticised yarns by currently-preferred spinning techniques, such as ring-spinning or open-end spinning, since the commercially available equipment can only accept very thin elastic thread.
Therefore, the present invention aims at providing a method for making an elasticised yarn from an elastic fibre and a cotton-based yarn in which a natural rubber fibre can be used as the elastic fibre, said natural rubber fibre having a metric count as commercially available, thus overcoming the above mentioned limitations of the conventional spinning methods.
Moreover, it is an object of the invention to provide a method for making such an elasticised yarn by which elasticised fabrics can be made that are free from problems due to poor elastic recovery of the elasticised yarn, e.g. inelastic deformities formed after stretching and then releasing the fabric, even during manufacture and normal use of garments and other articles made therefrom.
Moreover, it is a particular object of the present invention to provide a method for making an elasticised yarn in which the elastic thread can be unwound from a spool comprising end-flanges and can be delivered to a processing unit at a fixed stretching ratio, without having to periodically adjust the tensile force acting on the elastic thread.
It is another particular object of the invention to provide such an elasticised yarn and a denim-type fabric made therefrom.
The above objects are achieved by a yarn and a fabric.
According to the invention, a method for making an elastic core yarn comprises the steps of:
The elasticized yarn according to the invention, in which elasticity is provided by a natural rubber thread having a linear mass density as high as currently available in the trade, is an elastic core yarn, and not a yarn obtained by such spinning techniques as ring-spinning or open-end spinning, as suggested by the cited prior art. The invention, as disclosed above, solves some typical issues that could otherwise be involved in the manufacture of elastic core yarns, as explained below.
The covering yarn as prearranged can initially be Z-twisted, which is the commercially most available twist direction. According to the invention, the wrapping step is carried out in such a way that, while forming coils about the elastic core, the covering yarn is counter-twisted, i.e. it is twisted in the direction opposite to the initial twist direction, decreasing at first the number of Z-twists to zero and then creating a predetermined number of S-twists per length unit of the elastic core yarn. In this case, the initial or first twist direction is “Z”, and the last or second twist direction is “S”. As an alternative, of course, the covering yarn can initially be S-twisted, and the wrapping step is carried out in such a way that, while forming coils about the elastic core, the covering yarn is counter-twisted, at first decreasing the number of S-twists to zero and then creating a predetermined number of Z-twists per length unit of the elastic core yarn. In this case, the initial i.e. the first twist direction is “S” and the last i.e. the second twist direction is “Z”.
This way, while being wrapped about the elastic core, the covering yarn loses at first the twists in the initial twist direction, for example Z-twists, and then receives twists in the opposite direction, in this example, S-twists. On the contrary, if the wrapping step were carried out by increasing the number of twists in the initial twist direction, the covering yarn would soon become too “tight”, and would be likely to break before an appropriate, desired number of coils is wrapped about the elastic core.
Therefore, the method according to the invention makes it possible to form a larger number of coils per length unit of the elastic core yarn, without dangerously approaching or reaching a critical stability limit of the covering yarn, and preventing any risk of breaking the elastic core yarn, due to an excessive torsion level.
With a number of coils per unit length higher than said minimum value, a coil structure is obtained that is packed tightly enough to force the coils to perform a substantially regular elastic recovery. Therefore, a large number of coils per length unit, and the resulting highly packed structure that can safely be reached by the method according to the invention, causes the coils to substantially return to their original unstreched configuration, once the yarn has been stretched and then released. This prevents the elastic core thread from penetrating between adjacent coils of the covering yarn while being stretched, and from remaining in a protruded state from the elastic core yarn, after being released, which would remarkably deteriorate the look of any fabric manufactured from the elastic core yarn, as well as its elastic properties.
Moreover, with the method according to the invention, the covering yarn, after losing the twists in the initial twist direction and before receiving any twists in the final twist direction, crosses a zero-torsion condition, in which the discontinuous cotton fibres, and possible fibres of a different material, have a small or even no cohesion. As well known, the cohesion between the fibres and therefore the strength of the articles made of discontinuous fibres is mainly ensured by twisting such fibres together so as to obtain a yarn. In the zero-torsion condition provided by this method, a possible disgregation of the covering yarn while being wrapped about the elastic core could be an issue.
However, the protection of the wrapping space provided by the container, limits or substantially suppresses the friction of the covering yarn with air, thus averting the risk of disgregating the covering yarn when it crosses the above-mentioned zero-torsion condition.
Therefore, by the method according to the invention, it becomes possible to use an elastic natural rubber thread having a linear mass density as currently available in the market, i.e. normally higher than 200-500 dtex. Thanks to this method, elastic core yarns can be therefore obtained that are suitable for making elasticised fabrics which advantageously contain natural rubber instead of synthetic elastic threads besides cotton: therefore, these elasticised fabrics only contain environment-friendly materials, in particular, compostable materials. Accordingly, articles can be obtained that can be turned into compost, at the end of their useful life, or in any case they can be degraded naturally.
Moreover, such elasticised fabrics are particularly well-suited for skin-sensitive people, in comparison with synthetic polymer fibres, from which denim-type elasticised fabrics are usually manufactured.
As well known, the metric count Nm is an indirect measure of textile linear density (of the reciprocal thereof), and is defined as the number of kilometres corresponding to 1 Kg of a yarn or filament. In other words, the metric count is expressed in Km/Kg. An alternative textile linear density unit is tex, which is, inversely, the mass expressed in grams corresponding to 1 Km of a yarn or filament, or a submultiple thereof, such as dtex (0.1 tex).
The number of twists per metre means the number of twists that can be directly counted as the number of inverse torsions that are required for completely removing the twists on a predetermined length of a twisted yarn that has been arranged between two fixed points at a predetermined initial tensile stretch. In particular, the predetermined length and the initial tensile stretch are selected according to ISO 2061.
In particular, the predetermined minimum value T0, for each linear mass density value Nm indicated in a respective line of table 1 is a value written in the same line, and in the column headed “T0” of this table and, for values of said linear mass density Nm intermediate between values indicated in respective contiguous lines of the table, the minimum value T0 is obtained by linearly interpolating the T0 values written in the same adjacent lines of table 1 and in the column headed “T0”.
In particular, the predetermined maximum value T1, for each linear mass density value Nm indicated in a respective line of table 1, is a value written in the same line, and in the column headed “T1” of the table and, for values of said linear mass density Nm intermediate between values indicated in respective contiguous lines of the table, the maximum value T1 is obtained by linearly interpolating the values T1 written in the same adjacent lines of table 1 and in the column headed “T1”. With such a number of coils per unit length, a coil structure is obtained that is not too tightly packed to deteriorate the elastic properties of the elastic core yarn and, therefore, of any fabric manufactured therefrom.
The number T of coils per length unit, for each linear mass density value Nm, can be provided by the equation:
T=K Nm0.425;
where K is a number set between 75 and 290, which substantially correspond to said minimum and maximum values T0 and T1 of said number of wrapped coils, respectively.
Preferably, K is set between 90 and 250, more preferably, between 120 and 220.
Preferably, the number T of coils per length unit, is set between a central reference value T2 minus 10% and the same central reference value T2 plus 10%, wherein the central reference value T2 is given in table 2 for some metric count values Nm, and is obtained by linearly interpolating the contiguous T2 values for intermediate metric counts.
The covering yarn can be a single-ply yarn, a double-ply yarn and a yarn having more than two plies.
Advantageously, the step of conveying the elastic core and the covering yarn up to the collecting spool comprises:
More in detail, the step of prearranging the source of the elastic core comprises the steps of prearranging a first spool of the elastic fibre, while the step of prearranging a covering yarn provides a step of mounting a second spool of covering yarn coaxially to the hollow cylindrical body. The step of conveying comprises a step of stretching and unwinding the elastic fibre from the first spool, at a predetermined unwinding speed equal to said conveying speed. The step of conveying also comprises a step of stretching the elastic core outside of the orifice, with the covering yarn wrapped about the elastic core, and a step of collecting the elastic core yarn on a third collecting spool, at a stretching/collecting speed selected in such a way to obtain a predetermined stretching ratio of the elastic fibre. In particular, this stretching ratio is set between 2 and 6.
In particular, the method can be actuated on a hollow spindle twisting machine, for instance, a Hamel-type machine allowing a protected balloon configuration, i.e. one in which the elastic core and the covering yarn are enclosed within a container when meeting to form the elastic core yarn.
In particular, the source of the elastic core can be a spool comprising a central hub having a rub radius and end flanges having a flange radius, the spool rotatably arranged about an own first axis, and the step of conveying the elastic core comprises a step of unwinding the elastic core from the spool. In this case, an intermediate balancing cylinder has a predetermined diameter longer than the flange radius shortened by the hub radius and a fixed own second axis parallel to the first axis is arranged between the spool and a motion distribution shaft parallel to the first and to the second axes, at contact with both the spool and the motion distribution shaft. This way, the elastic core is maintained in contact with the intermediate balancing cylinder during the step of unwinding.
Advantageously, the elastic fibre also comprises the following components:
In an exemplary embodiment, the elastic core comprises a complementary thread arranged along the elastic fibre. This way, the friction between the coils of the covering yarn and the elastic fibre is remarkably reduced, which prevents slack, substantially inelastic deformities from forming in the fabric, due to poor elastic recovery, after stretching and then releasing a fabric portion, which often occurs in garments due to some wearer's movements or postures, or even when manufacturing such articles as garments from the elasticised fabric.
In this case, the step of prearranging a source of an elastic core comprises a step of prearranging a fourth spool of the complementary thread, and the step of conveying the elastic core involves the complementary thread along with the elastic fibre, from the respective first and fourth spool, wherein a friction wheel is provided to which the elastic fibre and the complementary thread converge, before being conveyed together to the wrapping space.
In particular, the complementary thread is made of a biodegradable material that can be selected, for instance, from the group consisting of: wool, silk, cotton, flax, hemp, jute, sisal, raffia and ramiè.
The complementary thread can be a discontinuous thread or a continuous thread. In the latter case, it can be arranged parallel to the elastic fibre, or can be interconnected to it, i.e. connection points can be provided between the complementary thread and the elastic fibre at predetermined distance from one another, or can be wrapped about the elastic fibre, for instance, forming a covering about it. The continuous complementary thread can be a single-filament continuous thread or a multiple-filament continuous thread, in which case the filaments can be flat or textured. Preferably, the complementary thread has a metric count set between 22 dtex and 150 dtex.
It falls within the scope of the invention also an elasticised yarn obtained according to the method described above, as well as an elasticised fabric containing at least one part of the above described elasticised yarn, obtained by the method described above.
The invention will be now shown with the following description of its exemplary embodiments, exemplifying but not limitative, with reference to the attached drawings, in which:
With reference to
Elastic core yarn 50 is obtained by a step of covering by helically wrapping covering yarn 40 about elastic core 30. In order to accomplish the wrapping, steps are provided of conveying elastic core 30 and covering yarn 40 at respective speeds v1 and v2, to a wrapping space 35, where covering yarn 40 laterally i.e. tangentially attains elastic core 30, covering yarn 40 at a predetermined angle α with respect to elastic core 30 when attaining the latter, so as to form a substantially helical covering about elastic core 30.
Wrapping space 35 is a normally closed space, as shown in
As also shown in
As also shown in
In this exemplary embodiment, wrapping space 35 is defined between an outlet end 69 of first cylindrical body 61, at which elastic core 30 is delivered, and an orifice 66 that is preferably arranged along axis 63′, from which elastic core yarn 50 is released in a stretched condition, to be in turn conveyed to collecting spool 70. The covering of wrapping space 35 is made by a preferably axisymmetric wall 67′ converging from an inner surface of second hollow cylindrical body 64 to orifice 66, thus creating a container 67, of which orifice 66 is an outlet passageway for elastic core yarn 50 formed within wrapping space 35.
Conveying speeds v1 and v2 (
Source 51 of elastic core 30 can be a spool 51 of elastic fibre 10 rotatably arranged about its own axis 52 and comprises a central hub 53 and end flanges 54 of radius R, at end portions of central hub 53 of radius r, as shown in
In a preferred embodiment of the invention, as shown in
P>R−r
is verified.
Axis 52 of spool 51 is slidingly arranged along a guide 55 integral to the spinning machine. This way, as the unwinding step progresses, the amount of elastic fibre 10 on spool 51 decreases, and therefore axis 52 along with spool 51 progressively approach intermediate balancing cylinder 56 and therefore approach motion distribution shaft 58, as shown in
Therefore, as shown in
The material of the covering yarn is a cotton-based material based on cotton, in particular it contains at least 50% cotton. For instance, this material can be a material normally used for making a denim fabric. The cotton-based covering yarn can be a single-ply yarn, a double-ply yarn or even a yarn having more than two plies.
The diagram of
Advantageously, the number T of coils per length unit of elastic core yarn 50, for each value Nm of metric count of covering yarn 40, is provided by the equation:
T=K Nm0.425;
where K is a number set between 75 and 290, these values substantially corresponding to curves 83 and 84 of the diagram of
The diagram of
With reference to
Preferably, complementary thread 20 is made of a biodegradable or compostable material that can be, for instance, wool, silk, cotton, flax, hemp, jute, sisal, raffia, ramiè.
Complementary thread 20 can be a discontinuous or continuous filament, in the latter case it can be a single-filament continuous thread or a multiple-filament continuous thread. The filament or the filaments thereof can be flat or textured filaments.
Still in the case of a continuous complementary thread 20,
It falls within the scope of the present patent application an elastic core yarn manufactured by the method described above, also an elasticised fabric containing such an elastic core yarn.
The foregoing description exemplary embodiments of the invention will so fully reveal the invention according to the conceptual point of view, so that others, by applying current knowledge, will be able to modify and/or adapt for various applications the embodiments without further research and without parting from the invention, and, accordingly, it is therefore to be understood that such adaptations and modifications will have to be considered as equivalent to the specific embodiments. The means and the materials to realise the different functions described herein could have a different nature without, for this reason, departing from the field of the invention. It is to be understood that the phraseology or terminology that is employed herein is for the purpose of description and not of limitation.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 102018000009802 | Oct 2018 | IT | national |
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/IB2019/057825 | 9/17/2019 | WO |
| Publishing Document | Publishing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| WO2020/084361 | 4/30/2020 | WO | A |
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| Number | Date | Country |
|---|---|---|
| 2 638 192 | May 2016 | EP |
| 2 145 034 | Nov 2016 | EP |
| 1 600 741 | Jul 1970 | FR |
| 827 561 | Feb 1960 | GB |
| Number | Date | Country | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 20210388538 A1 | Dec 2021 | US |
