The present invention relates generally to the field of flooring including tiles and more particularly to a flooring system that enables the tiles to be easily installed and removed. Still more particularly the present invention relates to resilient tiles and a flooring system comprising a plurality of tiles, a plurality of liners having a grid pattern printed thereon and adhesive to adhere the tiles to the liners.
The floor replacement cycle for resilient flooring tile is long because among other reasons residential resilient tile is often difficult to remove and replace. The removability of fully adhered tile varies—sometimes it comes up with great difficulty, a small piece at a time—at best tile is removed with moderate difficulty in larger pieces or entire tile.
Further, residential resilient tile can be difficult to repair. Repair usually involves removing the tile in multiple pieces, scraping the floor, and respreading adhesive.
Also, residential tile can be difficult to recycle, since it usually comes up in pieces. These pieces are not easily collected and contained for shipping to a recycling plant. Additionally, as small pieces they are not easily identified as safely recyclable tile, possibly being non-vinyl tile or tile containing hazardous materials. The residential tile to be recycled may include an underlayment comprising materials not normally used to make tile.
With prior art residential tile, replacing the tile that has been removed requires additional subfloor preparation. This usually involves manual adhesive scraping, patching, and/or the installation of ¼″ plywood.
Another disadvantage of prior art resilient tile is that it is not easily customizable or themed.
An issue for the average do-it-yourselfer is that planning the tile job can be confusing. It may be difficult for the average homeowner to properly center and balance the tile in the room. Also, positioning and centering a rolled-out underlayment on the floor can be difficult if the room center marks are covered by an opaque underlayment.
Further, water can get trapped under the tile in wet areas. This is especially true when using adhesive tabs, i.e. discontinuous adhesive, to install the tile.
In order to make a floor that floats, the flooring pieces must be attached to each other. Inexpensive tile is usually thin and weak and not easily locked together via the edges. Tiles that are not affixed to the subfloor with full-spread glue can be prone to shifting due to foot pivoting and due to furniture movement.
Another issue with a floating floor is that installing tile on a floating underlayment on plywood or on an existing floor can lead to fatigue failure under chair wheels due to repeated flexing of the tile. Also, fatigue failure due to repeated flexing of the tile under chair wheels is enabled by and manifested at the tile joints. Further, dragging appliances over floating tile system can result in the tile or underlayment being torn.
Changing seasons cause the subfloor in typical residential construction to move with changing moisture levels. This movement can cause flooring to buckle due to shrinkage of the subfloor or tearing due to expansion of the subfloor.
Floor replacement cycle time can be shortened by making the flooring easier to install and remove. Ease of tile installation and removal can be enabled by installing the tile on a separate, easy to install liner, which is floating (not connected) to the existing floor. Removal entails removal of liner and tile together. Optionally, the liner can be adhered to the existing floor.
Ease of installation and removal is also increased by using an adhesive system that allows tile to be pried up and a new tile to be slipped into place, such as adhesive tabs of proper size or a spray adhesive or a tile with pre-applied adhesive.
To identify recyclable tiles, the liner can be printed with identification including a recycling stamp of approval. Since the tile will be removed in one piece, it can be separately identified as recyclable. Recycling is made simple by the use of rigid vinyl film as the liner, since it is the same rigid vinyl currently used on the surface of the tile.
The use of a rolled out liner allows the tile job to be removed with the previous subflooring condition unchanged from the original. The ability to pry up individual tiles allows the floor to be customized, e.g. as the season changes, or as a person's interest changes. Accent tiles depicting skiing in the winter can be changed to flowers when spring arrives. Philadelphia Eagles tiles can be changed to the Indianapolis Colts.
A printed grid liner turns the mental challenge of centering and balancing the flooring in a room to a visual picture. The tile locations and sizes at the perimeter of the room are visually seen during this layout process. By using a clear or translucent liner, positioning and centering of the rolled-out liner on the room center marks is facilitated.
Water can be deterred from entry under the tiles by seam sealing the tile, particularly beveled tile with existing resilient floor seam sealers. Further, the liner locks the tile pieces together and the tile pieces lock the liner pieces together.
Fatigue failure is deterred by using a liner with a high modulus and tensile strength to hold the installation together. Both plastisol saturated glass and rigid vinyl film fit this description. A high modulus, low indentation liner can reduce the degree of flexing. Also, higher binder tile (LVT) can reduce the damage from flexing.
Seam sealing the tile reduces or eliminates the tile joint as the point of failure and improves the performance of floating tile under chair wheels. Tearing of the tile or underlayment when an appliance is dragged over the tile is reduced or eliminated by using a high modulus, high tear strength liner. A high shear strength adhesive also addresses this problem, as well as a thicker, more substantial tile.
Tile installed on a stable liner has minimal buckling if the tile itself is buckle resistant. Tile installed on a stable liner has minimal tearing or gapping if the liner has high modulus and tensile strength.
The problems set forth above are solved by an easy-to-install and remove system that comprises three components: 1) a plurality of rolled-out, floating liners, 2) a plurality of tiles, particularly resilient tiles, and 3) an adhesive adhering the tile to the liner.
The installation of the system involves rolling out the liner, using the printed grid as a centering aid. First the center run of liner is rolled out then side runs of liner are rolled out to reach the wall. Next adhesive dots are applied to each corner of the tile, or adhesive is sprayed over the selected liner area or tile and allowed to dry. The tile is then laid onto the grid.
Individual tiles can be replaced by prying with a knife blade in a corner or edge of the tile and slowly prying up the tile, continuing to pull by hand as soon as the corner can be gripped. Then a new tile can be installed in its place.
Removal of the entire installation involves pulling up the tile/liner starting at a corner or edge, cutting the liner at the tile perimeter, and restacking the tile for disposal/recycle.
The liner may be a 32″ wide, 4 mil clear, matt finish, rigid vinyl film. To enable positioning and centering the tile the liner should have grid lines the size of the tile to be installed printed on the liner. In one embodiment, a row of squares are centered longitudinally on the liner and two rows of half tile sized rectangles are printed adjacent the edges of the liner. The width of the liner can be a multiple of the tile width, with the row of tiles centered or the seam between the rows of tiles centered, in which case the liners are laid with the edges of adjacent liners adjacent. If the width of the liners is somewhat greater than a multiple of the tile width, the edge portions of adjacent liners are overlapped when the liners are laid.
The modulus of elasticity, tensile strength, grid layout, and moisture resistance of the film are important to the proper functioning of the liner during installation and afterwards. The liner should be stiff enough to reduce the degree of flexing and deter buckling.
In one embodiment, the tiles are 16″×16″×0.125″ modular vinyl tiles. The adhesive may be adhesive dots applied to each of the corners of the tile, or pressure sensitive adhesive, or a spray adhesive applied to the tile or liner. The tiles can have other dimensions, such as a 12″×12″ tile or 18″×18″ tile or be self-adhering Place'n'Press tile of any size. The tile can be of different shapes such as rectangles, triangles, parallelograms. Different tile compositions can include non-PVC tile and liner, or any tile with a degree of conformability. The concept can likely be used with a variety of adhesive types including full adhesive on the back of the tile, dots of various kinds of adhesive, and spray adhesive.
The liner can either float on the substrate or be adhered to the substrate with an adhesive or other means that does not damage the substrate and is easy to remove. The tile can be laid over the entire substrate or form an island on the substrate. If an island is formed, it is preferred that the tile overlying the edge of the liner extend beyond the edge of the liner and is adhered to the substrate.
Olsen Stiffness values are obtained on a Tinius Olsen Stiffness Tester with a range of 0 to 6 inch-pounds or 0 to 50 inch-pounds depending on the sample stiffness. The protocol described in ASTM D-747 was followed to measure the values with the exception that the values reported were obtained at an angle of 20 degrees and sample run on the 50 in-pound machine were 2″ wide as opposed to 1″ wide. The stiffness test is a measure of the force in inch-pounds needed to bend the material 20 degrees.
Olsen stiffness at 73.4° F., 5 degree, 2 inch width, 1 inch span of no greater than 10 in-lb yields a tile that will conform sufficiently to the substrate on which it is laid. Preferably, the Olsen stiffness is no greater than 5 in-lb.
The Liner Specification for one embodiment of the tile, in which the liner is 36″ wide allowing for a 4″ overlap on each edge with 16″ tile, is set forth in Table I below:
The liner can also be formed from other materials, such as PET, PETG or Mylar. PETG can be successfully recycled into vinyl tile. Polyethylene likely cannot be recycled into vinyl tile.
Installation
The tile installation method provides an easy do-it-yourself system for consumers to install their favorite tile patterns. It takes the guesswork out of planning the tile layout and allows for a durable installation without the use of messy adhesives that can damage existing flooring. If desired, it can be easily removed or replaced as fashion and room use needs change. The installation method with adhesive tabs is not intended for bathrooms, laundries and other places where surface water and spills are likely to occur on a regular basis. The use of spray adhesive, in place of the adhesive tabs, provides added protection against surface water penetration.
Materials Needed:
Preparation
All subfloors must be smooth, flat, clean and dry. Irregularities in the subfloor can telegraph through to the tile. Damaged areas in the subfloor should be repaired to create a structurally sound and firm base.
Suitable Substrates:
Do Not Install Over:
The layout grid liner serves several purposes. It is an aid to planning the layout in the room and “balancing” the installation to avoid small pieces of tile at the perimeter walls. It protects the existing floor surfaces from damage and when it is decided to change flooring, makes removal and replacement much easier.
The layout grid is only to be used as an aid. After starting to lay tile on top of the grid (as described in succeeding steps) each tile must butt neatly and squarely to adjoining the tile, even if the tile edges start to wander slightly from the gridlines.
Step 1 (
Step 2 (
Step 3 (
Step 4 (
Step 5 (
Step 6 (
Step 7 (
Cut and install subsequent pieces of the layout grid liner 6 to fill in the remainder of the room. Stay about ⅛″ to ¼″ away from the walls 2, 3, 10 and 11. There is no need to tape the perimeter edges of the liner 6 to the subfloor 14 at walls as long as the perimeter liners 6 are taped to the previous liner 6.
Installing the Tile with Adhesive Tabs
Step 8 (
Step 9 (
Step 10 (
Step 11 (
Cutting Border Tile
Step 12 (
Using a carpenter's square or a straight edge as a guide, carefully score the face of the tile I (about ⅓ thickness) along at the mark with a utility knife. Bend at the score mark to snap the tile I into two pieces.
For irregular cuts, make a pattern out of craft paper or cardboard and transfer it to the tile. Score along the markings and snap small pieces off. Pliers or a coping saw are often useful in making more intricate cutouts for complicated fitting.
Tile should slip underneath the undercut door jambs for a neat fit. Do not fit tile too snug as some lifting or buckling off of the subfloor could develop.
Place adhesive tabs 16 at corners of cut pieces I and fasten in place on top of the grid liner 6. Keep cut edges towards the wall.
Finishing the Job
Replace baseboard and trim moldings. Replace furniture and appliances.
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