Patent Application
20230346653
The present invention relates to compositions, in particular foundation compositions for cosmetics, comprising (1) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups; (2) at least one polyoxyalkenated and/or glycerolated nonionic compound Y having an HLB less than about 8, as well as to methods of making said compositions.
At the present time on the market for caring for and making up keratin materials, many products claim staying power throughout the day, withstanding external factors such as water, sebum, mechanical friction, etc. (waterproof mascara, food-proof lipsticks, long-lasting foundations). Long-lasting products for the lips, the eyelashes, the eyebrows or the face, which can be used at home, are mainly based on synthetic coating polymers in the presence of organic solvents.
However, consumers, who are increasingly demanding as regards the composition of their cosmetic products, are also seeking to use products with ingredients that are well tolerated such as natural ingredients, with ingredients which have little or no environmental impact and/or ingredients which are compatible with numerous packaging.
The aim of the present invention is to propose compositions which offer excellent staying power of the expected cosmetic effects, notably the color of the makeup on keratin materials (skin, lips, nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows) which may extend from one day, including makeup removal at the end of the day, to staying power over several days, which is resistant to mechanical friction, water, sweat and perspiration, sebum, oil, cleansing products such as shower gels, shampoos, two-phase products and certain micellar waters.
There remains a need for improved compositions such as foundation compositions having improved properties with respect to composition ease and/or comfort of application of the composition itself
Accordingly, one aspect of the present invention is a composition, in particular a foundation composition, which has improved properties with respect to composition ease and/or comfort of application of the composition itself (and/or of application of another composition on top of it where the composition is a primer composition and the other composition is a color coat composition), composition stability, and/or composition color stability, and in particular with respect to improved properties related to the presence of polyphenols such as tannic acid in the compositions including properties such as improved stability or rheological properties.
The present invention relates to compositions, in particular emulsion compositions for cosmetics, comprising water. The water is present in an amount of at least about 5% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition. The compositions further comprise at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two phenol groups. The compositions further comprise at least one polyoxyalkylenated and/or glycerolated nonionic compound Y, optionally with a molar mass greater than 200 g/mol. The at least one polyoxyalkylenated and/or glycerolated nonionic compound Y has an HLB less than about 8. Additionally, the compositions comprise at least one pigment.
In certain embodiments, compound X is tannic acid. In certain other embodiments, compound Y has an HLB less than six. The composition system optionally comprises at least one C2-C5 monoalcohol such as ethanol that, if present, is present in the composition in a concentration by weight of less than about 50% by weight.
According to certain other embodiments compound Y has an HLB less than six, the water is present in a concentration by weight in the composition from 5% to about 70%, compound X and compound Y are each independently present in a concentration by weight from about 0.5% to about 25%, and the emulsion meets one or more of the following properties: has a shear modulus, G′ at 0.1% strain of at least about 150 Pa or has a yield stress of at least 7 Pa.
The present invention also relates to methods of preparing and methods of caring for, and/or making up, and/or priming for caring for and/or making up keratinous material by applying compositions of the present invention to the keratinous material in an amount sufficient to care for, and/or to make up, and/or to prime for caring for and/or making up the keratinous material.
It is to be understood that both the foregoing general description and the following detailed description are exemplary and explanatory only, and are not restrictive of the invention.
In the following description of the invention and the claims appended hereto, it is to be understood that the terms used have their ordinary and accustomed meanings in the art, unless otherwise specified.
“About” as used herein means within 15% of the indicated number (e.g. “about 10%” means 8.5%-11.5% and “about 2%” means 1.7%-2.3%). In certain embodiments, “about” means within 10%, such as within 5% of the indicated number.
“A” or “an” as used herein means “at least one.”
“At least one” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
As used herein, all ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of subranges between, the given ranges. Thus, a range from 1-5, includes specifically 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as subranges such as and 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc. Ranges in the form of, for example, “from about 0.5%, 1%, or 2% to about 4%, 5%, or 15%,” also specifically contemplate from about 0.5% to about 4%, from about 0.5% to about 5%, 0.5% to about 15%, from about 1% to about 4%, from about 1% to about 5%, 1% to about 15%, from about 2% to about 4%, from about 2% to about 5%, and 2% to about 15%.
“Film former”, “film-forming polymer” or “film-forming agent” as used herein means a polymer or resin that leaves a film on the substrate to which it is applied, for example, after a solvent accompanying the film former has evaporated, absorbed into and/or dissipated on the substrate. “Additional film former” refer to film formers other than compound X and compound Y, which are capable of forming a film upon removal of the C2-C5 monoalcohol.
“Wax” as used herein is a lipophilic fatty compound that is solid at ambient temperature (25° C.) and changes from the solid to the liquid state reversibly, having a melting temperature of more than 30° C. and, for example, more than 45° C., and a hardness of more than 0.5 MPa at ambient temperature.
“Surfactant” and “emulsifier” are used interchangeably throughout this specification.
“Substituted” as used herein, means comprising at least one substituent. Non-limiting examples of substituents include atoms, such as oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, such as hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalky groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulphonate groups, thiosulphate groups, siloxane groups, and polysiloxane groups. The substituent(s) may be further substituted.
“Volatile”, as used herein, means having a flash point of less than about 100° C.
“Non-volatile”, as used herein, means having a flash point of greater than about 100° C. “Polymer” as used herein means a compound which is made up of at least two monomers.
“Polymer” as used herein means a compound which is made up of at least two monomers.
“Free” or “substantially free” or “devoid of” as it is used herein means that while it is preferred that no amount of the specific component be present in the composition, it is possible to have very small amounts of it in the compositions of the invention provided that these amounts do not materially affect at least one, preferably most, of the advantageous properties of the conditioning compositions of the invention. Thus, for example, “free of triethanolamine (TEA)” means that an effective amount (that is, more than trace amounts) of TEA is omitted from the composition, “substantially free of TEA” means that TEA is are present in amounts not greater than 0.1% by weight, and “devoid of TEA” means that TEA is present in amounts not greater than 0.25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The same nomenclature applies for all other ingredients identified throughout the application and in this paragraph such as, for example, oils (compositions of the invention which are “free of oils,” “substantially free of oils,” and “devoid of oils” have meanings consistent with the discussion within this paragraph), even if not specifically discussed for each identified ingredient. Discussed examples of the use of such language are intended to be exemplary, not limiting.
“Makeup Result” as used herein, refers to compositions where color remains the same or substantially the same as at the time of application, as viewed by the naked eye, after an extended period of time. “Makeup Result” may be evaluated by evaluating long wear properties by any method known in the art for evaluating such properties. For example, long wear may be evaluated by a test involving the application of a composition to keratin materials such as lips and evaluating the color of the composition after an extended period of time. For example, the color of a composition may be evaluated immediately following application to keratin materials such as lips and these characteristics may then be re-evaluated and compared after a certain amount of time. Further, these characteristics may be evaluated with respect to other compositions, such as commercially available compositions.
“Keratinous material” or “keratin material” means natural nails, lips, skin such as the face, the body, the hands, and the area around the eyes, and keratin fibres such as head hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, bodily hair of a human, as well as synthetic additions such as false eyelashes, false eyebrows, false nails, etc.
“Physiologically acceptable” means compatible with keratinous material and having a pleasant color, odor and feel, and which does not cause any unacceptable discomfort (stinging or tautness) liable to discourage a consumer from using the composition. Acceptable pH levels for compositions of the present invention are preferably slightly or somewhat acidic, that is, less than 7, preferably 6.5 or less, preferably 6.0 or less, preferably 5.5 or less, including all ranges and subranges therebetween such as, for example 3 to 5, 4 to 6, 3 to 4.5, etc. Further, compositions of the present invention preferably may be in the form of a spray composition such as, for example, a composition having sufficient fluidity to allow it to be suitable for aerosol spraying (preferably further containing propellant) or manual spraying (for example, pump spraying) as is known in the art.
Compositions of the present invention may also be in the form of a gel composition. In this specification, “gel composition” means a composition which does not flow similar to a liquid when applied to a substrate, a composition which has a 3-dimensional network that inhibits the composition from spreading on, or dripping from, a substrate after application owing to gravity. G′ (storage modulus) is higher than G″ (loss modulus) at all range of strains up to 300% strain. Preferably, G′ (storage modulus) is higher than G″ (loss modulus) at low strain, but with G′ decreasing and G″ increasing, the gel may have a gel crossover point at >0.1% strain, preferably >1% strain, and preferably less than 200% strain, preferably less than 150% strain.
“Gel Crossover Point” (Sol/Gel Point), means the point at which the G″ (loss modulus) intersects the G′ (storage modulus), reported in % strain. It is the point at which a composition goes from a more solid state to a more liquid state. An example of a method for determining gel crossover point is as follows: G″ (loss modulus) and G′ (storage modulus) using a Discovery HR-3 Rheometer by TA Instruments, having 40 mm 2° cone-and-plate stainless steel geometry. The test can be run @ 25° C., with test parameter of angular frequency of 1.0 rad/s and logarithmic sweep: Strain % 0.01 to 100.0% or 1000.0% with 10 points per decade. Results reported in % strain.
“Hydrogen bonding interaction” means an interaction involving a hydrogen atom of one of the two reagents and an electronegative heteroatom of the other reagent, such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and fluorine. In the context of the invention, the hydrogen bonding forms between the hydroxyl functions (OH) of the reactive phenol groups of the polyphenol X and the reactive hydroxyl groups of the compound Y, which are capable of forming hydrogen bonding with those of said phenol groups of the polyphenol X.
“Coating agent formed by interaction by hydrogen bonds of at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups with the compound Y” means that the conditions are met so that the reaction can be carried out between the two reagents, in particular that: i) the amount of polyphenol X is sufficient in the composition containing it, and ii) the compound Y is soluble, miscible or solubilized by another solvent in the medium of the composition containing it, and iii) the compound Y has a sufficient number of hydrogen bond acceptor groups to react with the phenol groups of polyphenol X and, in the medium of the composition containing it, and iv) the compound Y, in the medium of the composition containing it, does not comprise in its structure any group which does not allow the formation of hydrogen bonding with the functions of the reactive phenol groups of the polyphenol X, such as for example, one or more anionic group.
“Natural compound” refers to any compound derived directly from a natural substance such as a plant without having undergone any chemical modification.
“Compound of natural origin” refers to any compound derived from a natural compound which has undergone one or more chemical modifications, for example by organic synthesis reaction, without the properties of the natural compound having been modified.
“Synthetic compound” refers to any compound which is not a natural compound or a compound of natural origin.
“Room temperature” means 25° C.
“Atmospheric pressure” means 760 mmHg, i.e. 105 pascals.
“Coating agent” refers to any compound which is capable of forming a deposit on the surface of a keratin material to which it has been applied.
“Hydrogen bonding-inhibiting agent” refers to any compound which is capable of preventing hydrogen bonding interaction between the polyphenol X and the compound Y and/or which is capable of dissociating the complex formed by said interaction by breaking the hydrogen bonding.
The compositions and methods of the present invention can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the invention described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful. For example, the surfactant component of the composition can “consist essentially of” identified surfactant(s) or types of surfactants discussed below.
For purposes of the present invention, the “basic and novel property” associated with compositions, components and methods which “consist essentially of” identified ingredients or actions is “building viscosity, yield stress or shear modulus.”
Referred to herein are trade names for materials including, but not limited to polymers and optional components. The inventors herein do not intend to be limited by materials described and referenced by a certain trade name. Equivalent materials (e.g., those obtained from a different source under a different name or catalog (reference) number) to those referenced by trade name may be substituted and utilized in the methods described and claimed herein.
All percentages and ratios are calculated by weight unless otherwise indicated. All percentages are calculated based on the total weight of a composition unless otherwise indicated. All component or composition levels are in reference to the active level of that component or composition, and are exclusive of impurities, for example, residual solvents or by-products, which may be present in commercially available sources.
All U.S. patents or patent applications disclosed herein are expressly incorporated by reference in their entirety.
Polyphenol X
According to the present invention, compositions comprising at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups are provided.
The polyphenols X that may be used according to the present invention include in their structure at least two different phenol groups.
The term “polyphenol” refers to any compound containing in its chemical structure at least two and preferably at least three phenol groups.
The term “phenol group” refers to any group comprising an aromatic ring, preferably a benzene ring, including at least one hydroxyl group (OH).
The term “different phenol groups” refers to phenol groups that are chemically different.
The polyphenols X that may be used according to the invention may be synthetic or natural. They may be in isolated form or contained in a mixture, notably contained in a plant extract. Polyphenols are phenols comprising at least two phenol groups that are differently substituted on the aromatic ring.
The two classes of polyphenols are flavonoids and non-flavonoids.
Examples of flavonoids that may be mentioned include chalcones such as phloretin, phloridzin, aspalathin or neohesperidin; flavanols such as catechin, fisetin, kaempferol, myricetin, quercetin, rutin, procyanidins, proanthocyanidins, pyroanthocyanidins, theaflavins or thearubigins (or thearubrins); dihydroflavonols such as astilbin, dihydroquercetin (taxifolin) or silibinin; flavanones such as hesperidin, neohesperidin, hesperetin, naringenin or naringin; anthocyanins such as cyanidin, delphinidin, malvidin, peonidin or petunidin; catechin tannins such as tannic acid; isoflavonoids such as daidzein or genistein; neoflavanoids; lignans such as pyroresorcinol; and mixtures thereof.
Among the natural polyphenols that may be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of lignins.
Examples of non-flavonoids that may be mentioned include curcuminoids such as curcumin or tetrahydrocurcumin; stilbenoids such as astringin, resveratrol or rhaponticin; aurones such as aureusidin; and mixtures thereof.
As polyphenols that may be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of chlorogenic acid, verbascoside; coumarins substituted with phenols.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyphenol X will be chosen from catechin tannins such as gallotannins chosen from tannic acid; ellagitannins such as epigallocatechin, epigallocatechin gallate, castalagin, vescalagin, vescalin, castalin, casuarictin, castanopsinins, excoecarianins, grandinin, gradinin, roburins, pterocarinin, acutissimin, tellimagrandins, sanguiin, potentillin, pedunculagin, geraniin, chebulagic acid, repandisinic acid, ascorgeraniin, stachyurin, casuarinin, casuariin, punicacortein, coriariin, cameliatannin, isodeshydrodigalloyl, dehydrodigalloyl, hellinoyl, punicalagin and rhoipteleanins.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyphenol X is epigallocatechin, in particular a green tea extract having the INCI name Green Tea Extract, notably comprising at least 45% epigallocatechin relative to the total weight of said extract, for instance the commercial product sold under the name Dermofeel Phenon 90 M-C® sold by the company Evonik Nutrition & Care or the commercial product sold under the name Tea Polyphenols Green Tea Extract® by the company Tayo Green Power.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyphenol X is a procyanidin or a mixture of procyanidins, in particular an extract of maritime pine bark having the INCI name Pinus pinaster Bark/Bud Extract, notably comprising at least 65% by weight of procyanidins relative to the total weight of said extract, such as the commercial product sold under the name Pycnogenol® sold by the company Biolandes Aromes.
Tannic acid will be used more particularly as polyphenol X.
According to a particular embodiment, the polyphenol(s) X according to the invention is preferably present in a content equal or greater than 0.5% by weight, such as from about 0.5%, 0.75% 1%, 1.5% or 2% to about 2.5%, 4%, 5%, 10%, 15%, 20% 25% or 30%—all percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing it (them).
Nonionic Compound Y
According to the present invention, compositions comprising at least one glycerolated and/or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic compound Y are provided. Optionally, compound Y has a molar mass greater than 200 g/mol. According to certain embodiments, the compound Y is surface active (i.e., is a surfactant) and may be capable of depressing surface tension of deionized water when placed in such deionized water at a surfactant concentration of 0.25% by weight at room temperature and pressure to less than about 60 mN/m, such as less than about 50 mN/m, such as less than about 40 mN/m.
By “nonionic compound” it is meant a compound that does not ionize in water.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polyoxyalkylenated compound” refers to any molecule comprising in its chemical structure at least chain comprising oxyalkylene units, in particular oxyethylene units—(OCH2CH2)n and/or oxypropylene units—(OCH2CH2CH2)p, where n and p are 2 or greater.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “glycerolated compound” refers to any molecule comprising in its chemical structure a glycerol group or a chain comprising glycerol units—(O—CH2—CHOH—CH2)m. In certain embodiments, the compound Y is a polyglycerolated compound, meaning any molecule comprising in its chemical structure a glycerol group or a chain comprising glycerol units —(O—CH2—CHOH—CH2)m, where m is 2 or greater. In this specification, “PG” is used as an abbreviation of polyglycerol or polyglyceryl.
In one preferred embodiment, the molar mass of the compound Y is greater than 350 g/mol.
As examples of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic compounds Y, mention may be made of:
CnH2n+1—(O—C(CH3)H—CH2)O—(O—CH2—CH2)p—OH
such as PPG-26-Buteth-26, PPG-5-Ceteth-20 and PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-30,
CnH2n+1—(CH═CH2)O—CpH2p—O—(O—CH2—CH2)n—OH or
CnH2n+1—(CH═CH)o—CpH2p—O—(O—CH2—CH2)q—O—CO—CrH2r+1 or
CnH2n+1—(CH═CH)o—OO—(O—CH2—CH2)q—O—CnH2n+1 or
CnH2n+1—O—CH(alkyl)—(CH2)p—(O—CH2—CH2)q—O—CO—CrH2r+1
such as PEG-6 Isostearate, PEG-8 Distearate, PEG-4 Olivate, and PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate,
According to a particular embodiment, the compound(s) Y according to the invention is preferably present in a content equal or greater than 0.8% by weight, preferably equal or greater than 1% by weight, more particularly equal or greater than 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing it (them).
According to a particular embodiment, the compound(s) Y according to the invention is preferably present in a content from about 0.5 to about 30% by weight, preferably from about 0.75 about 20% by weight, and preferably from about 1 to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition containing it (them), including all ranges and subranges therebetween such as, for example, 1 to 5% by weight, 0.5% to 7.5% by weight, 2 to 5% by weight, etc.
According to a preferential embodiment of the invention, the mole ratio of the reactive hydroxyl groups (OH) of the polyphenol(s) X to the hydroxyl groups of the compound(s) Y that are reactive with those of the polyphenol(s) X preferably ranges from 1/3 to 20 (20/1), preferably from 1/2 to 15 (15/1), and preferably from 3/4 to 5 (5/1).
The at least one glycerolated and/or polyoxyalkenated compound Y has a hydrophile-lipophile balance (HLB) less than about 8, such as less than about 7, such as less than about 6, such as less than about 5. HLB, as one skilled in the art will recognize is a measure of relative balance of hydrophilic character to hydrophobic character (smaller HLB meaning more hydrophobic character).
According to certain embodiments the at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups and the at least one polyoxyalkylenated or glycerolated nonionic compound Y are present in the composition in a X:Y weight ratio from about 1:10 to about 10:1, such as from about 1:5 to about 5:1, such as from about 1:3 to about 3:1, such as from about 1:1 to about 3:1.
C2-C5 Monoalcohol/Water
According to the present invention, compositions comprising at least one C2-C5 monoalcohol are provided. Suitable C2-C5 monoalcohols include ethanol, propanol, butanol, pentanol, isopropanol, isobutanol and isopentanol. In certain embodiments, the at least one monoalcohol is selected from one or more C2-C4 monoalcohols. Ethanol is particularly preferred.
For use in foundation and other facial makeup, according to certain embodiments, it is desirable to limit the concentration of C2-C5 monoalcohols to less than about 50%, such as less than about 40% by weight in the composition. According to certain embodiments, the concentration of C2-C5 monoalcohols in the composition ranges from about 0%, 2%, 5%, or 10% to about 10%, 20% 40%. or 50%.
According to certain other embodiments the remainder of the solvent system is water (i.e., the solvent system is substantially free or free of solvents other than water and C2-C5 monoalcohol.
According to certain embodiments, the concentration by weight of water in the composition ranges from about 10%, 20%, 30% to about 40%, 50%, or 60%.
Further, according to certain embodiments composition is such that: the compound Y has an HLB less than six, the water is present in a concentration by weight in the composition from 5% to about 70%, compound X and compound Y are each independently present in a concentration by weight from about 0.5% to about 25%, and the emulsion meets one or more of the following properties: has a shear modulus, G′ at 0.1% strain of at least about 150 Pa or has a yield stress of at least 7 Pa. As used herein, shear modulus, G′ at 0.1% strain, and yield stress are measured using methods described in this specification, below.
Preferably, the solvent component of the compositions of the present invention consists essentially of, or consists of, water and C2-C5 monoalcohols. Preferably, the solvent component of the composition is “free of,” “devoid of” or “substantially free of” solvents other than water and C2-C5 monoalcohols.
Coloring Agents
According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, compositions optionally further comprising at least one coloring agent are provided.
According to this embodiment, the at least one coloring agent is preferably chosen from pigments, dyes, such as liposoluble dyes, nacreous pigments, and pearling agents. According to certain preferred embodiments, the composition includes at least one pigment.
Representative liposoluble dyes which may be used according to the present invention include Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, annatto, and quinoline yellow. The liposoluble dyes, when present, generally have a concentration ranging up to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition, such as from 0.0001% to 6%, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
The pigments, which may be used according to the present invention, may be chosen from white, colored, inorganic, organic, polymeric, nonpolymeric, coated and uncoated pigments. Representative examples of mineral pigments include titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, iron oxides, chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, and ferric blue. Representative examples of organic pigments include carbon black, pigments of D & C type, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, and aluminum. Nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, colored nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment chosen from those mentioned above, and nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride may also be used.
The pigments may be present in a coloring-effective amount. By “coloring-effective amount,” it is meant that the pigments may be present in an amount sufficient to provide visual color, such as when the compositions are applied to the face and observed under standard lighting conditions (e.g., ASTM D1729-2016) on Fitzpatrick skin phototype M. The pigments may be present in the composition in a concentration ranging up to 30% by weight of the total weight of the composition, such as from 2.5% to 20%, and further such as from 5% to 15%, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
However, it is possible for the compositions of the present invention to be free, substantially free, or devoid of coloring agents as defined above.
Gelling Agent
According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, compositions optionally further comprising at least one gelling agent are provided. Suitable gelling agents include amphiphilic polymers.
The amphiphilic polymers may comprise at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer containing a sulphonic group, in freeform or partially or totally neutralized form.
The amphiphilic polymers may comprise at least one hydrophobic portion. The hydrophobic portion present in these polymers preferably contains from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 18 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
The amphiphilic polymers may have a molar mass ranging from 50,000 g/mole to 10,000,000 g/mole, preferably from 80,000 g/mole to 8,000,000 g/mole, and preferably from 100,000 g/mole to 7,000,000 g/mole.
The amphiphilic polymers may be based on at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomer A and on at least one hydrophobic monomer B. Preferably, the monomer A comprises a strong acid function, in particular a sulphonic acid or phosphonic acid function. The hydrophobic monomer B comprises at least one hydrophobic radical, chosen from: saturated or unsaturated C6-C18 linear alkyl radicals (for example, n-hexyl, n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl or oleyl): branched alkyl radicals (for example, isostearic) or cyclic alkyl radicals (for example, cyclododecane or adamantane); C6-C18 fluoro or alkylfluoro radicals (for example, the group of formula —(CH2)2—(CF2)9—CF3); a cholesteryl radical or radicals derived from cholesterol (for example, cholesteryl hexanoate); aromatic polycyclic groups, for instance naphthalene or pyrene; and silicone or alkylsilicone or alkylfluorosilicone radicals. Among these radicals, linear and branched alkyl radicals are preferred.
The amphiphilic polymers may be crosslinked. The crosslinking agents may be chosen from, for example, the polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for crosslinking polymers obtained by free-radical polymerization. According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate or tri methylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking preferably ranges from 0.01 mol % to 10 mol %, and preferably from 0.2 mol % to 2 mol %, relative to the polymer, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
The amphiphilic polymers may be homopolymers or copolymers.
The amphiphilic polymers can be partially or totally neutralized with a mineral base (for example, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia) or an organic base such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, or basic amino acids, for instance arginine and lysine, and mixtures thereof.
The amphiphilic polymers may be water-soluble or water-dispersible homopolymers such as, for example, optionally cross-linked polymers of sodium 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonate acid such as that used in the commercial product SIMULGEL 800 (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), cross-linked polymers of ammonium 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate acid (INCI name: AMMONIUM POLYACRYLDIMEHYLTAURAMIDE) such as the product sold under the tradename HOSTACERIN AMPS by Clariant.
The amphiphilic polymers may be chosen from crosslinked or non-crosslinked amphiphilic polymers of 2acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic (AMPS) acid and of at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one hydrophobic portion containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 18 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
According to other embodiments of the present invention, the gelling agent is an acrylic acid polymer, such as a high molecular weight homo or copolymer of acrylic acid that may be crosslinked with a polyalkenyl polyether—e.g., a “carbomer.”
Preferably, if present, the gelling agent(s) is/are present in the compositions of the present invention in amounts ranging from about 0.05 to about 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 2% and preferably from 0.5 to 1% by weight, all weights based on the weight of the composition as a whole, including all ranges and subranges therebetween such as, for example, 0.1 to 1.5%, 0.25 to 1.25%, 0.4 to 0.75%, etc.
Oil/Fatty Phase
Compositions of the present invention are emulsions and generally include a fatty phase including one or more fatty compounds. The fatty phase may be or include an external fatty phase and as such may be a water-in-oil (or water-in silicone) emulsion. An internal fatty phase such as may be in an oil-in-water-in oil emulsion may also be included. As one skilled in the art will readily appreciate, the fatty phase which will generally include one or more oils, waxes, silicones, and/or other water-insoluble ingredients, will have an aqueous phase distributed therein.
According to embodiments of the present invention, the compositions of the present invention may optionally further comprise at least one oil. “Oil” means any non-aqueous hydrophobic medium which is liquid at ambient temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). Suitable oils can be volatile or non-volatile.
Suitable oils include volatile silicone oils. Examples of such volatile silicone oils include linear or cyclic silicone oils having a viscosity at room temperature less than or equal to 6 cSt and having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones being optionally substituted with alkyl or alkoxy groups of 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Specific oils that may be used in the invention include octamethyltetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and their mixtures. Other volatile oils which may be used include KF 96A of 6 cSt viscosity, a commercial product from Shin Etsu having a flash point of 94° C. Preferably, the volatile silicone oils have a flash point of at least 40° C.
Suitable oils include non-silicone volatile oils and may be selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile esters and volatile ethers. Examples of such volatile non-silicone oils include, but are not limited to, volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures and in particular branched C8 to C16 alkanes such as C8 to C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, and for example, the oils sold under the trade names of Isopar or Permethyl. Preferably, the volatile non-silicone oils have a flash point of at least 40° C.
Suitable oils include synthetic oils or esters of formula R5COOR6 in which R5 represents a linear or branched higher fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, including from 7 to 19 carbon atoms, and R6 represents a branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, including from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, with R6+R7≥10, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C12 to C15 alkyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, and octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or of polyalcohols; hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; pentaerythritol esters; and synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms.
If present, the oil(s) is/are present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 50% by weight, more preferably from about 0.4% to about 30% by weight, and preferably from about 10% to about 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges within these ranges.
Additional Additives
The composition of the invention can also comprise any additive usually used in the field under consideration. For example, film forming agents, waxes, dispersants such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid), sunscreens, preserving agents, fragrances, fillers, neutralizing agents, cosmetic and dermatological active agents, moisturizers, silicone elastomers, chelating agents and mixtures thereof can be added. According to certain embodiments, compositions of the invention include at least one rheology modifier and/or at least one filler.
Rheology modifiers, as one skilled in the art will recognize include ingredients whose function is to modify rheological properties. Such ingredients include natural gums, natural or synthetic polymers including cellulose-based polymers; clays; and the like.
Fillers, as one skilled in the art will recognize include ingredients whose function is create bulk, slip or texture and may secondarily modify rheology as well. Such ingredients include, for example, boron nitride, starch powders, talc, mica, rice powders, silicas, and the like.
Additional film-forming agents, as one skilled in the art will recognize include for example silicones such as silicone resins, urethanes, or any of various hydrocarbon film forming polymers such as those including acrylic functionality (ethylenic unsaturation), polyester functionality, vinyl functionality, and the like.
Humectants as one skilled in the art will recognize include for example, polyhydric alcohols, such as glycerin and various glycol such as butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, hydroxyethyl urea and the like.
A non-exhaustive listing of such ingredients can be found in U.S. patent application publication no. 2004/0170586, the entire contents of which is hereby incorporated by reference. Further examples of suitable additional components can be found in the other references which have been incorporated by reference in this application.
A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional additives and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
These substances may be selected variously by the person skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition which has the desired properties, for example, consistency or texture.
Needless to say, the composition of the invention should be cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, i.e., it should contain a non-toxic physiologically acceptable medium and should be able to be applied to the eyelashes of human beings.
Methods
According to embodiments of the present invention, methods of preparing an emulsion composition comprise combining an aqueous phase that comprises at least one polyphenol X having at least two different phenol groups with other ingredients to form an emulsion, particularly an emulsion having an internal fatty phase. These other ingredients include at least one glycerolated and/or polyoxyalkenated compound Y having an HLB below about 8, one or more fatty compounds, at least one pigment, and optionally at least one C2-C5 monoalcohol. These other ingredients incorporate into one or more fatty phases or other phases present in the composition.
According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, methods of caring for, and/or making up, and/or care for keratinous material by applying compositions of the present invention to the keratinous material in an amount sufficient to care for, and/or to make up, and/or to prime for caring for and/or making up the keratinous material are provided. Preferably, “making up” the keratin material includes applying at least one coloring agent to the keratin material (in either the composition itself or in a color coat composition applied over the composition) in an amount sufficient to provide color to the keratin material.
In accordance with the preceding preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention are applied topically to the desired keratinous material in an amount sufficient to care for, and/or to make up, and/or to prime for caring for and/or making up the keratinous material. The compositions may be applied to the desired area as needed, preferably once or twice daily, more preferably once daily and then preferably allowed to dry before subjecting to contact such as with clothing or other objects (for example, a color coat composition or a topcoat applied over the composition). Preferably, the composition is allowed to dry for about 1 minute or less, more preferably for about 45 seconds or less. The compositions may be used in particular, as a makeup foundation or for other facial makeup (for example, exclusive of the eye area and/or lip area) such as blush, concealer, highlighter, bronzer and the like.
Unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients, reaction conditions, and so forth used in the specification and claims are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term “about.” Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical parameters set forth in the following specification and attached claims are approximations that may vary depending upon the desired properties sought to be obtained by the present invention.
Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters setting forth the broad scope of the invention are approximations, the numerical values set forth in the specific examples are reported as precisely as possible. Any numerical value, however, inherently contain certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective measurements. The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without limiting the scope as a result. The percentages are given on a weight basis.
Sample gel formulations were prepared by mixing various ingredients to form an emulsion having an external fatty phase. The samples differed only with respect to type of acid and pH of aqueous phase. The compositions and pHs are shown below in Table 1.
The samples were made by combining the ingredients of Phase A sequentially at 50° C. using a Silverson Rotor-Stator homogenizer. Ingredients of Phase B1 B2, and B3 were separately prepared, heated to 50° C., and then combined together to form a combined B phase that was then added to Phase A and emulsified using the homogenizer. Phase C (particulate fillers) was added after reducing temperature to below 45° C.
Ex. 1 is consistent with embodiments of the invention described herein. Comp 1 (no acid), Comp 2 (replaces tannic acid with same mass of citric acid, no pH correction), Comp 3 (replaces tannic acid with enough citric acid, to approximate the pH of Ex. 1) are comparative.
The four above compositions were evaluated for rheological properties: (a) storage modulus (G′ measured at 0.1% strain); (b) yield stress at onset; (c) viscosity at a shear rate of 0.01 s−1; and (d) viscosity at a shear rate of 93 s−1.
Yield stress, also called apparent yield stress, is the point at which a material undergoes plastic deformation. A material with a yield stress evaluated with dynamic rheology will typically exhibit G′ higher than G″ at low oscillatory stress. G′ will be relatively constant with increasing oscillatory stress, until at some stress value G′ values will suddenly decrease.
G′ and yield stress were determined as follows: using a Discovery HR-3 Rheometer by TA Instruments, with a 40 mm 2° steel cone-and-plate geometry, an oscillation amplitude sweep is performed at 1.0 rad/s from 0.01% strain to 100% strain, with 10 points per decade. Afterward, the G′ (Pa) is plotted on the y-axis and oscillation stress (Pa) on the x-axis, both in log-scale. G′ measured at 0.1% strain is recorded. The analysis software is utilized to perform an onset-point analysis which is the apparent yield stress.
Viscosity was determined using a Discovery HR-3 Rheometer by TA Instruments, having 40 mm 2° cone-and-plate stainless steel geometry. A flow Ramp was performed in log-mode from 0.001 (1/s) to 1000 (1/s) shear rate with 10 points per decade over a duration of 600 seconds at a temperature of 25° C.
The results are shown below in Table 2.
The results show that the inventive composition is able to build much higher viscosity, higher yield stress and higher shear modulus, as measured, compared to the comparative compositions.
