Patent Application
20210244631
The present invention relates to a composition intended in particular for making up and/or caring for the lips and the skin, comprising at least 10% by weight of water, at least 10% by weight of a silicone resin, at least one liquid polyol, optionally at least one polyalkoxylated fatty alcohol, and pigments. The invention also relates to a process for preparing said composition, and also to a process for treating and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the lips.
The development of compositions for making up and/or caring for the lips, in particular fluid compositions such as liquid lipsticks, which are stable and endowed with satisfactory properties in terms of application (glidance on application, ease of spreading and fineness of the deposit), but also in terms of the makeup effect of the deposit on the lips, for instance the absence of migration of the deposit, preferably without becoming tacky, is an ongoing objective.
Generally, formulations corresponding to liquid presentation forms conventionally comprise oils, which in particular provide gloss, optionally waxes for structuring the compositions, fillers especially for thickening the composition, film-forming polymers, and dyestuffs.
These liquid lipsticks must be sufficiently fluid to be easily applied, but not too fluid, so as not to degrade the stability of the composition (pigment sedimentation) and the ease of application (running).
With conventional liquid lipstick compositions, it is noted that the deposit is relatively thick, thereby giving it a more or less tacky nature, especially induced by the use of these oils and of the polymers present. This nature may be reflected especially by adhesion of the made-up lips to each other, causing the user an unpleasant sensation in terms of comfort.
Liquid lipstick compositions have very recently appeared on the market, in the form of direct or inverse aqueous emulsions. When they are applied, they provide a fresh effect, and are sparingly tacky or non-tacky, and comfortable, and remain so once deposited. They also make it possible to obtain a homogeneous, sufficiently glossy deposit which has satisfactory persistence and transfer resistance.
It is nevertheless desired to further improve the persistence of these compositions, and also their transfer resistance, without, however, losing any gloss on application or any comfort.
Specifically, it is not uncommon to find that such compositions have the drawback of leaving either a matt deposit, or a deposit that is more uncomfortable since it is very present on the lips (with an impression of reduction in the mobility of the lips), often accompanied by a sensation of dryness.
It is also advantageous to have available compositions that can be applied both to the lips and to the skin, in particular to the face and more precisely the cheeks.
Compositions, in particular liquid compositions, are thus sought which can produce a deposit whose behaviour and transfer resistance are improved without any loss of comfort.
Compositions of which the deposit on the lips or the skin, in particular the cheeks, although very thin, makes it possible to obtain a visible, glossy colour, with improved colour persistence, are also sought.
These aims and others are achieved by the present invention, one subject of which is a cosmetic composition, comprising:
Another subject of the invention relates to a process for preparing said composition, in which at least a portion of the pigment(s) is used, in a form predispersed in at least one polyol, optionally in the presence of water and optionally in the presence of at least one polyalkoxylated alcohol comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, comprising at least 15 alkoxyl, preferably ethoxyl, units; the pre-dispersion being used during the process for preparing the composition or added thereto.
Finally, a subject of the invention is a process for making up and/or caring for the skin, in particular the cheeks and the lips, which consists in applying the composition mentioned previously.
The film deposited on the lips has the advantage of being thin and affords a fresh effect on application, without significant migration into the wrinkles and fine lines.
The composition is stable, easy to apply, comfortable on application since the deposit obtained is sparingly or non-tacky, and remains so once in place. Moreover, the deposit does not give an impression of dryness of the lips.
In addition, the deposit obtained by applying the composition according to the invention has satisfactory gloss.
The colour persistence of the deposit obtained by applying the composition is improved, as is its transfer resistance.
The present invention also makes it possible to efficiently and simply disperse in an aqueous phase pigments which do not have any affinity with such a medium.
However, other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.
It should be noted that, in the remainder of the description, unless otherwise indicated, the limits indicated for a range are included in that range.
The expressions “at least one” and “several” are used without distinction.
In addition, the sum of the amounts of the ingredients of the composition represents 100% by weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention is more particularly in the form of an emulsion.
The composition according to the invention is advantageously in a liquid form.
The term “liquid” means a fluid texture, in particular of which the viscosity at 25° C. is more particularly between 0.05 and 10 Pa·s, and preferably between 0.1 and 8 Pa·s.
Protocol for Measuring the Viscosity:
The viscosity measurement is generally performed at 25° C., using a Rheomat RM 100 viscometer equipped with a no. 2 or 3 spindle, the measurement being performed after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle in the composition, at a shear rate of 200 revolutions/min (rpm).
Protocol for Measuring the Stability:
According to the invention, a composition is stable when substantially no phase separation or sedimentation of the solid particles is observed, when the composition comprises any, by performing the following protocol:
Centrifugations are performed at room temperature on samples of composition introduced into 15 ml, sterile propylene graduated plastic centrifugation tubes with a conical end and a stopper (ref Biologix 10-9152) to be filled with 8.6 g of composition).
The measurement is more particularly taken 24 hours after manufacturing the composition.
Centrifugation of the compositions according to the invention for 10 minutes at 450×g (expressed in acceleration units) does not show any instability (no phase separation).
Advantageously, after a step of centrifugation for 1 hour at 900×g (expressed in acceleration units), no phase separation of the compositions thus treated is observed, or, if phase separation appears, it reveals a phase either as a pellet in the tube, which is less than or equal to 5 mm, or a supernatant at the top of the tube, which is less than or equal to 2 mm.
According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of a composition whose aqueous phase is the continuous phase and whose oily phase is the dispersed phase (oil-in-water direct emulsion).
The term “composition with an aqueous continuous phase” more particularly means that a pH value can be measured for the composition with a suitable electrode (for example an MPC227 conductimeter from Mettler Toledo).
As indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one silicone resin.
More generally, the term “resin” means a compound of which the structure is three-dimensional. Thus, for example, for the purposes of the present invention, a polydimethylsiloxane (linear silicone) is not a silicone resin within the meaning of the present invention.
The nomenclature of silicone resins (also known as siloxane resins) is known under the name “MDTQ”, the resin being described as a function of the various siloxane monomer units it comprises, each of the letters “MDTQ” characterizing a type of unit.
The letter M represents the monofunctional unit of formula R1R2R3SiO1/2, the silicon atom being bonded to only one oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.
The letter D means a difunctional unit R1R2SiO2/2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to two oxygen atoms.
The letter T represents a trifunctional unit of formula R1SiO3/2.
Such resins are described, for example, in the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, vol. 15, John Wiley and Sons, New York, (1989), pp. 265-270, and U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,676,182, 3,627,851, 3,772,247, 5,248,739 or else U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,082,706, 5,319,040, 5,302,685 and 4,935,484.
In the units M, D and T defined previously, Ri, namely R1, R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrocarbon-based radical (especially alkyl) containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group.
Finally, the letter Q means a tetrafunctional unit SiO4/2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to four oxygen atoms, which are themselves bonded to the rest of the polymer.
Various silicone resins with different properties may be obtained from these different units, the properties of these polymers varying as a function of the type of monomer (or unit), the nature and number of the radical(s) Ri, the length of the polymer chain, the degree of branching and the size of the side chains.
As silicone resins that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, use may be made, for example, of silicone resins of MQ type, of T type or of MQT type.
As examples of silicone resins of MQ type, mention may be made of the alkyl siloxysilicates of formula [(R1)3SiO1/2]x(SiO4/2)y (units MQ) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, and such that the group R1 represents a radical as defined previously, and is preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a hydroxyl group, preferably a methyl group. As examples of solid silicone resins of MQ type of trimethyl siloxysilicate type, mention may be made of those sold under the reference SR1000 by the company Momentive Performance Materials, under the reference MQ 1600 by Dow Corning or under the reference Belsil TMS 803 by the company Wacker.
As silicone resins comprising MQ siloxysilicate units, mention may also be made of phenylalkyl siloxysilicate resins, such as phenylpropyldimethyl siloxysilicate (Silshine 151 sold by the company Momentive Performance Materials). The preparation of such resins is described especially in patent U.S. Pat. No. 5,817,302.
Examples of silicone resins of T type that may be mentioned include the polysilsesquioxanes of formula (RSiO3/2)x (units T) in which x is greater than 100 and such that the group R is an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, said polysilsesquioxanes also possibly comprising Si—OH end groups.
Mention may also be made of polymethylsilsesquioxanes, which are polysilsesquioxanes in which none of the methyl radicals is substituted with another group. Such polymethylsilsesquioxanes are described, for example, in U.S. Pat. No. 5,246,694.
Polymethylsilsesquioxane resins that may preferably be used are those in which R represents a methyl group, for instance those sold:
Resins comprising MQT units that are especially known are those mentioned in U.S. Pat. No. 5,110,890.
A preferred form of resins of MQT type are MQT-propyl (also known as MQTpr) resins. Such resins that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are especially the resins described and prepared in patent application WO 2005/075 542, the content of which is incorporated herein by reference.
The MQ-T-propyl resin preferably comprises the following units:
Preferably, the siloxane resin comprises the following units:
The siloxane resins that may be used according to the invention may be obtained via a process comprising the reaction of:
A) an MQ resin comprising at least 80 mol % of units (R13SiO1/2)a and (SiO4/2)d,
Advantageously, the weight ratio A/B is between 95/5 and 15/85. Preferably, the ratio A/B is less than or equal to 70/30. These preferred ratios have proven to afford comfortable deposits.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, as silicone resin, at least one resin of MQ type as described previously.
In particular, the silicone resin is a siloxysilicate resin, preferably a trimethylsiloxysilicate resin (INCI name: trimethylsiloxysilicate).
Advantageously, the silicone resin is present in a content of at least 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. Preferably, the content of silicone resin represents between 10% and 45% by weight, preferably between 12% and 40% by weight, in particular between 15% and 35% by weight, or even from 18% to 35% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. These contents are expressed in dry matter of silicon resin.
The silicone resin may be used in powder form, in a form predissolved in a solvent, in a form conveyed in a liquid or in a form emulsified in water. It should be noted that, in the latter case, the silicone resin is preferably in a conveyed form, advantageously dissolved in a solvent, and then emulsified.
As regards the silicone resins conveyed in a solvent, said solvent is usually chosen from apolar hydrocarbon-based oils and volatile or non-volatile, preferably volatile, silicone oils.
The term “volatile oil” means an oil with a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure, above 2.66 Pa, more particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40 000 Pa, in particular ranging up to 13 000 Pa and more particularly ranging up to 1300 Pa. By way of example, the vapour pressure may be measured according to the static method or via the effusion method by isothermal gravimetry, depending on the vapour pressure (standard OCDE 104; 27/07/95).
Volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may especially be mentioned include alkanes, preferably branched alkanes of 8 to 16 carbon atoms, especially such as C8-C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane.
Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include linear or cyclic silicone oils, such as linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) containing from 3 to 7 silicon atoms.
Examples of such oils that may be mentioned include octyl trimethicone, hexyl trimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, methyl trimethicone, polydimethylsiloxanes such as those sold under the reference DC 200 by Dow Corning or KF 96 A from Shin-Etsu; alone or as mixtures.
Among the silicone resins, especially of MQ type, which are in a form conveyed in a solvent, mention may be made especially of Koboguard® MQ65TMF (mixture of trimethylsiloxysilicate and methyl trimethicone) sold by Kobo; KF-7312J (mixture in cyclopentasiloxane), KF-7312K, KF-7312L (mixtures in dimethicone), KF-7312T (mixture in trimethicone), X-21-5249 (mixture in cyclopentasiloxane), X-21-5249L (mixture in dimethicone), X-21-5250, X-21-5250L (mixture in cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone, respectively), X-21-5595, X-21-5616 (mixtures in isododecane), KF-9021, KF-9021L (mixtures in cyclopentasiloxane and in dimethicone, respectively), sold by Shin-Etsu; Silsoft 74, Silshine 151 (mixtures in isododecane) from Momentive Performance Materials; Xiameter RSN-0749 Resin, Dow Corning 749 Fluid (mixtures in cyclopentasiloxane), Dow Corning 593 Fluid (mixture in dimethicone) from Dow Corning.
As regards the silicone resins that are in the form of emulsions in water, mention may be made, for example, of KM-9717 (emulsion in the presence of an anionic surfactant, comprising a low-viscosity silicone), X-52-8005 (emulsion in the presence of a nonionic surfactant, comprising a low-viscosity silicone), sold by Shin-Etsu.
The composition according to the invention moreover comprises at least one non-volatile silicone oil.
The term “silicone oil” means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and notably containing Si—O groups.
In addition, the term “oil” denotes a compound which is liquid at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa).
The term “non-volatile oil” means an oil whose vapour pressure at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 2.66 Pa and preferably less than 0.13 Pa.
Preferably, the non-volatile silicone oil is nonionic.
According to the invention, the term “nonionic” means that the compound does not comprise any ionic groups, irrespective of the pH of the composition. The non-volatile silicone oil advantageously does not comprise any nitrogen atoms.
More particularly, said non-volatile silicone oil does not comprise any (poly)oxyalkylene groups, the oxyalkylene unit of which is C2-C3, or any (poly)glycerol groups.
According to a particular embodiment, the non-volatile silicone oil does not comprise any —Si—H groups.
Preferably the non-volatile silicone oil does not comprise any C8-C22 alkyl groups, when the non-volatile silicone oil does not comprise any phenyl groups.
Among the non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the present invention, examples that may be mentioned include non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils and non-volatile phenyl silicone oils.
The silicone oil may be used in unmodified form, or in a form dissolved in at least one volatile or non-volatile oil, or in the form of an emulsion.
The expression “non-phenyl silicone oil” denotes a silicone oil not comprising phenyl substituents.
Representative examples of these non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils that may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes; vinyl dimethicones and copolymers with dimethicone.
Moreover, the term “dimethicone” (INCI name) corresponds to a polydimethylsiloxane (chemical name).
In particular, these oils may be chosen from the following non-volatile oils:
The non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oil may be chosen in particular from silicones of formula (I):
As non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils that are suitable for performing the invention, mention may be made of those for which:
Dimethiconols such as the products Xiameter PMX-1503 (as a mixture with a dimethicone) and Xiameter PMX-1502 (mixture with C11-33 isoparaffin, isohexadecane, dimethicone) from Dow Corning may also be suitable for use.
The silicone oil may be used in unmodified form, or in a form dissolved in at least one volatile or non-volatile oil, or in the form of an emulsion.
As examples of emulsions of non-volatile silicone oil, mention may be made of the products Xiameter MEM-1352 Emulsion (dimethicone, laureth-23, C12-15 pareth-3), Xiameter MEM 1491 Emulsion (dimethicone, laureth-23, C12-15 pareth-3), Xiameter MEM-1691 Emulsion (dimethicone, C12-13 pareth-4 and C12-13 pareth-23 and salicylic acid), Xiameter MEM 1652 Emulsion (dimethicone, C12-13 pareth-23; C12-C15 pareth 3, salicylic acid), Xiameter MEM 1664 Emulsion (dimethicone, laureth-4, laureth-23), Xiameter MEM-2664 Emulsion (dimethicone, laureth-23, laureth-4), Xiameter MEM-1784 Emulsion or Dow Corning CE2060 (dimethicone, cocamidopropylbetaine, C12-15 pareth-3, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride), Xiameter MEM-1785 Emulsion, Xiameter MEM-1784 Emulsion or Xiameter MEM-1788 Emulsion (dimethiconol, TEA dodecylbenzenesulfonate), Belsil DM 3560 VP (dimethiconol, sodium dodecylbenzenesulfonate, trideceth-10), Dow Corning HMW 2220 nonionic emulsion (divinyl dimethicone/dimethicone copolymer, C12-13 pareth-3, C12-13 pareth-23), sold by Dow Corning; KM-740T (nonionic); KM-860A (nonionic), KM-9736A (anionic), KM-9737A (anionic), KM-9738A (anionic), KM-862T (nonionic), KM-752T (anionic), KM-9774 (anionic), from Shin-Etsu.
The expression “phenyl silicone oil” denotes a silicone oil bearing at least one phenyl substituent.
These non-volatile phenyl silicone oils may be chosen from those also bearing at least one dimethicone fragment, or from those not bearing any. It should be noted that the term “dimethicone fragment” denotes a divalent siloxane group in which the silicon atom bears two methyl radicals, this group not being located at the end of the molecule. It may be represented by the following formula: —(Si(CH3)2—O)—.
The non-volatile phenyl silicone oil may thus be chosen from:
in which the groups R, which are monovalent or divalent, represent, independently of each other, a methyl, methylene, phenyl or phenylene, with the proviso that at least one group R represents a phenyl.
Preferably, in this formula, the phenyl silicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four, at least five or at least six.
in which the groups R represent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one group R represents a phenyl.
Preferably, in this formula, the compound of formula (II) comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five.
Mixtures of different phenylorganopolysiloxane compounds described previously may be used.
Examples that may be mentioned include mixtures of triphenyl-, tetraphenyl- or pentaphenylorganopolysiloxanes.
Among the compounds of formula (II), mention may be made more particularly of phenyl silicone oils not bearing any dimethicone fragments, corresponding to formula (II) in which at least 4 or at least 5 radicals R represent a phenyl radical, the remaining radicals representing methyls.
Such non-volatile phenyl silicone oils are preferably trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane or tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane. They are in particular sold by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3,5-trimethyl-1,1,3,5,5-pentaphenyltrisiloxane; INCI name: trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane), or the tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane sold under the reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid by Dow Corning may also be used.
They correspond especially to formulae (III) and (III′) below:
in which Me represents methyl, and Ph represents phenyl.
Preferably, the sum m+n+q is between 1 and 100. Advantageously, the sum m+n+p+q is between 1 and 1000, more particularly between 1 and 900 and preferably between 1 and 800.
Preferably, q is equal to 0.
More particularly, R1 to R10 represent, independently of each other, a saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, and linear or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon-based radical, and in particular a preferably saturated C1-C20, in particular C1-C18, hydrocarbon-based radical, or a monocyclic or polycyclic C6-C14 and in particular C10-C13 aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical, the alkyl part of which is preferably a C1-C3 alkyl.
Preferably, R1 to R10 may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or as a variant a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical. R1 to R10 may in particular be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical.
As particular embodiments of formula (V), mention may be made of:
Preferably, R1 to R6, independently of each other, represent a C1-C20, in particular C1-C18, hydrocarbon-based, preferably alkyl, radical, or a C6-C14 aryl radical which is monocyclic (preferably C6) or polycyclic and in particular C10-C13, or an aralkyl radical (preferably the aryl part is C6 aryl; the alkyl part is C1-C3 alkyl).
Preferably, R1 to R6 may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or as a variant a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.
R1 to R6 may in particular be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical. Preferably, m=1 or 2 or 3, and/or n=0 and/or p=0 or 1 may be applied, in formula (VI).
According to a particular embodiment, the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil is chosen from phenyl silicone oils bearing at least one dimethicone fragment.
Preferably, such oils correspond to compounds of formula (VI) in which:
According to this embodiment, the silicone oil is preferably chosen from a diphenyl dimethicone, such as KF-54 from Shin-Etsu (400 cSt), KF54HV from Shin-Etsu (5000 cSt), KF-50-300CS from Shin-Etsu (300 cSt), KF-53 from Shin-Etsu (175 cSt) or KF-50-100CS from Shin-Etsu (100 cSt).
These phenyl silicone oils optionally bearing at least one dimethicone fragment correspond more particularly to formula (VII) below:
According to a first embodiment of non-volatile phenyl silicone bearing at least one dimethicone fragment, p is between 1 and 1000 and m is more particularly such that compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil. Use may be made, for example, of trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, sold in particular under the reference Belsil PDM 1000 or Belsil PDM 20 by the company Wacker.
According to a second embodiment of a non-volatile phenyl silicone not bearing any dimethicone fragments, p is equal to 0 and m is between 1 and 1000, and in particular is such that compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil.
Use may be made, for example, of phenyl trimethicone, sold in particular under the reference Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (DC556).
Preferably, R, independently of each other, represent a saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, linear or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon-based radical, and in particular a preferably saturated, C1-C20, in particular C1-C18 and more particularly C4-C10, hydrocarbon-based radical, a monocyclic or polycyclic C6-C14, and in particular C10-C13, aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical of which preferably the aryl part is C6 aryl and the alkyl part is C1-C3 alkyl.
Preferably, the groups R may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or as a variant a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.
The groups R may in particular be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical.
According to a preferred embodiment, n is an integer between 0 and 100 and m is an integer between 1 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100, in formula (VIII). Preferably, R is a methyl radical.
According to one embodiment, a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VIII) with a viscosity at 25° C. of between 5 and 1500 mm2/s (i.e. 5 to 1500 cSt), and preferably with a viscosity of between 5 and 1000 mm2/s (i.e. 5 to 1000 cSt), may be used.
According to this embodiment, the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil is preferably chosen from phenyl trimethicones (when n=0, m more particularly between 1 and 3) such as Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning (20 cSt), or else from diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone oil (when m and n are between 1 and 100) such as KF56 A from Shin-Etsu, or the oil Silbione 70663V30 from Rhone-Poulenc (28 cSt). The values in parentheses represent the viscosities at 25° C.
More particularly, the composition comprises at least one non-volatile silicone oil chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes; non-volatile phenyl silicone oils bearing a dimethicone fragment, and also mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the composition comprises as non-volatile silicone oil(s), polydimethylsiloxanes and phenyl silicones and of formula (V), and also mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil(s) bearing a dimethicone fragment are chosen from trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones and diphenyl dimethicones, and also mixtures thereof.
Needless to say, the composition according to the invention may also comprise, in addition to the abovementioned non-volatile phenyl silicone oils, non-volatile phenyl silicone oils not bearing any dimethicone fragments, for instance phenyl trimethicones, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxanes and tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxanes, alone or as mixtures.
Advantageously, the composition has a content of non-volatile silicone oil(s) ranging from 2% to 35% by weight, preferably from 8% to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one particular non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.
The term “oil” denotes a compound that is liquid at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa).
The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils (first oil(s)) chosen from the following oils:
Preferably, if the composition comprises any, the content of first oil(s) is less than 15% by weight, more particularly between 0.5% and less than 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
Preferably, the content of this type of oil is less than 10% by weight and even more particularly less than 5% by weight and even more preferentially less than 2% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
In accordance with an even more preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any first oil(s).
More particularly, these first oils are chosen from:
More particularly, the C10-C26 alcohols are saturated or unsaturated, and branched or unbranched, and comprise from 10 to 26 carbon atoms.
Advantageously, the C10-C26 alcohols are fatty alcohols, which are preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms.
As examples of fatty alcohols that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of linear or branched fatty alcohols, of synthetic origin or alternatively of natural origin, for instance alcohols derived from plant materials (coconut kernel, palm kernel, palm, etc.) or animal materials (tallow, etc.).
Use may also be made of other long-chain alcohols, for instance ether alcohols or “Guerbet” alcohols.
Finally, use may also be made of certain more or less long fractions of alcohols of natural origin, for instance coconut (C12 to C16) or tallow (C16 to C18).
Preferably, the fatty alcohol comprises from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
As particular examples of fatty alcohols that may preferably be used, mention may be made especially of lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol and octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof.
According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the alcohol is chosen from octyldodecanol.
In particular:
Second Polar or Apolar Non-Volatile Hydrocarbon-Based Oils
The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen or nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. These oils are thus distinct from silicone oils and fluoro oils.
The hydrocarbon-based oil may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
It should also be noted that the term “oil” denotes a non-aqueous, water-immiscible compound. The term “immiscible” more particularly means that the mixing of the same amount of water and oil, after stirring, does not result in a stable solution comprising only a single phase, under the abovementioned temperature and pressure conditions. Observation is performed by eye or using a phase-contrast microscope, if necessary, on 100 g of mixture obtained after sufficient stirring with a Rayneri blender to produce a vortex within the mixture (as a guide, 200 to 1000 rpm), the resulting mixture being left to stand, in a closed flask, for 24 hours at room temperature before observation.
The second non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may be chosen from polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils different from the first non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils described previously, or from apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils.
Second Polar Non-Volatile Hydrocarbon-Based Oils
Preferably, the second polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) comprise only carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms.
In particular, the second non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) are chosen from ester oils containing at least 17 carbon atoms, in particular containing between 17 and 70 carbon atoms; oils comprising at least one carbonate function; and mixtures thereof.
As regards the ester oils containing at least 18 carbon atoms, mention may be made of monoesters, diesters or triesters.
The ester oils may or may not be hydroxylated.
Hence, as second non-volatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil that is suitable for use, mention may be made of:
Preferably, they are esters of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is in particular branched, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, R1 and R2 being such that R1+R2≥18.
Even more particularly, the ester comprises between 18 and 40 carbon atoms in total.
Preferred monoesters that may be mentioned include isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate and/or 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate;
The second non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil(s) are more particularly chosen from compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms.
Said linear or branched oils may be of mineral or synthetic origin, for instance:
Preferably, the apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) are chosen from liquid paraffin, squalene, isoeicosane, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes, and mixtures thereof.
In accordance with a more particular embodiment of the invention, if the composition contains any, the content of second non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) is such that the non-volatile silicone oil(s)/second non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) weight ratio is greater than 1, preferably greater than 2.
If the composition comprises at least a second polar or apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, the content of such oil(s) is advantageously between 2% and 35% by weight, preferably from 8% to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one volatile oil, more particularly chosen from hydrocarbon-based or silicone volatile oils.
The term “volatile oil” means an oil with a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 2.66 Pa to 40 000 Pa, in particular ranging up to 13 000 Pa and more particularly ranging up to 1300 Pa.
The volatile hydrocarbon-based oils are preferably chosen from apolar hydrocarbon-based oils and may in particular be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and especially:
The volatile silicone oil may be chosen from linear, branched or cyclic silicone oils, such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) containing from 3 to 7 silicon atoms.
Examples of such oils that may be mentioned include octyl trimethicone, hexyl trimethicone, methyl trimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxanes such as those sold under the reference DC 200 (1.5 cSt), DC 200 (5 cSt) or DC 200 (3 cSt) by Dow Corning or KF 96 A from Shin-Etsu; alone or as mixtures.
If the composition comprises any, the content of volatile oil(s) is such that the silicone resin/volatile oil(s) weight ratio is greater than or equal to 1, and preferably greater than 1.
More particularly, if the composition comprises any, the content of volatile oil(s) is less than 30% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
Preferably, the content of volatile oil(s) ranges from 0% to less than 30% by weight, more particularly from 0.5% to 20% by weight and preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
Polyalkoxylated Alcohols
The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one polyalkoxylated alcohol comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 26 carbon atoms, and comprising from 15 to 200 alkoxylated units, preferably from 30 to 100 alkoxylated units. The alkoxylated units comprise 2 or 3 carbon atoms, and are preferably ethoxylated units.
Examples that may be mentioned include laureth-20, laureth-23, ceteth-15, ceteth-20, ceteth-23, isoceteth-20, isoceteth-25, oleth-20, oleth-50, phytosterol 30 OE, steareth-20, steareth-21, steareth-40, steareth-100, beheneth-100, ceteareth-15, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-25, ceteareth-33, ceteareth-40, C12-13 pareth-23, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one such polyalkoxylated alcohol.
The content of alkoxylated alcohol(s) advantageously represents from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 8% by weight and even more preferentially from 0.05% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
Nonionic Surfactants
The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one hydrocarbon-based or silicone nonionic surfactant, other than the polyalkoxylated alcohols comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, comprising at least 15 alkoxylated units described previously, and also mixtures thereof.
The choice of the surfactant(s) depends on the desired nature of the emulsion, according to the knowledge of a person skilled in the art.
The HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) values of the surfactants are HLB values within the Griffin meaning as defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256).
Nonionic Hydrocarbon-Based Surfactants with an HLB of Greater than or Equal to 8.
According to a first particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one nonionic hydrocarbon-based surfactant with an HLB value of greater than or equal to 8.
The nonionic surfactant(s) may be chosen notably from saturated or unsaturated poly(oxyethylenated) C8-C30 monoesters or polyesters; saturated or unsaturated poly(oxyethylenated) C8-C30 alcohols; polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated, saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 monoesters or polyesters of sorbitan; polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated, saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 monoethers or polyethers of sorbitan; alkyl and polyalkyl glycosides or polyglycosides; saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 monoesters and polyesters of sucrose; polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated, saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 monoesters and polyesters of glycerol; polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated, saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 monoethers or polyethers of glycerol; and mixtures thereof.
1) As poly(oxyethylenated) saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 monoesters or polyesters, use is preferably made of those with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 2 to 200. Mention may be made, for example, of (INCI name) PEG-20 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 laurate, PEG-8 laurate, PEG-40 laurate, PEG-150 distearate, PEG-7 cocoate, PEG-9 cococate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-10 oleate and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil.
2) As saturated or unsaturated poly(oxyethylenated) C8-C30 alcohols, use is preferably made of those with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 3 to 15. Mention may be made, for example, of laureth-3, laureth-4, laureth-7, ceteth-5, ceteth-7, oleth-5, oleth-7, oleth-10, oleth-12, steareth-6, ceteareth-7, ceteareth-10, pareth-3, C12-15 pareth-3, C12-13 pareth-4, trideceth-3, trideceth-4, trideceth-5, trideceth-6, trideceth-7 and trideceth-10, and mixtures thereof.
3) Optionally polyoxyethylenated, saturated or unsaturated, C8-C30 monesters or polyesters of sorbitan that are preferably used are those with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100. Mention may be made, for example, of sorbitan laurate, sorbitan laurate 4 EO, sorbitan laurate 20 EO (polysorbate 20), sorbitan palmitate 20 EO (polysorbate 40), sorbitan stearate 20 EO (polysorbate 60), sorbitan oleate 20 EO (polysorbate 80) and sorbitan trioleate 20 EO (polysorbate 85).
4) Optionally polyoxyethylenated, saturated or unsaturated, C8-C30 mono- or polyethers of sorbitan that are preferably used are those with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100.
5) Alkyl or polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides that are preferably used are those containing an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 6 to 18 or even from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a glucoside group preferably comprising from 1 to 5 and especially 1, 2 or 3 glucoside units. The alkylpolyglucosides may be chosen, for example, from decylglucoside (alkyl-C9/C11-polyglucoside (1.4)), for instance the product sold under the name Mydol 10® by the company Kao Chemicals or the product sold under the name Plantacare 2000 UP® by the company Henkel and the product sold under the name Oramix NS 10® by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl/capryl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare KE 3711® by the company Cognis or Oramix CG 110® by the company SEPPIC; laurylglucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare 1200 UP® by the company Henkel or Plantaren 1200 N® by the company Henkel; cocoglucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare 818 UP® by the company Henkel; caprylylglucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare 810 UP® by the company Cognis; and mixtures thereof.
6) Examples of C8-C30 mono- or polyesters of sucrose that may be mentioned are Crodesta F150, sucrose monolaurate sold under the name Crodesta SL 40, and the products sold by Ryoto Sugar Ester, for instance sucrose palmitate sold under the reference Ryoto Sugar Ester P1670, Ryoto Sugar Ester LWA 1695 or Ryoto Sugar Ester 01570. Sucrose monooleate, monomyristate and monostearate are also suitable for use.
7) Optionally polyoxyethylenated, saturated or unsaturated, mono- or polyesters of glycerol that are preferably used are those with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100 and a number of glycerol units ranging from 1 to 30. Mention may be made, for example, of hexaglyceryl monolaurate, PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, polyglyceryl-2 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate and PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate.
8) Optionally polyoxyethylenated mono- or polyethers of glycerol that are preferably used are those with at least one group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably alkyl, and with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100 and a number of glycerol units ranging from 1 to 30. Examples that may be mentioned include Nikkol Batyl Alcohol 100 and Nikkol Chimyl Alcohol 100.
Preferably, the surfactant is chosen from poly(oxyethylenated) saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 monoesters and polyesters; poly(oxyethylenated) saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 alcohols; saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 monoesters and polyesters of sorbitan, which are preferably polyoxyethylenated; and also mixtures thereof.
According to the second particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one nonionic hydrocarbon-based surfactant chosen from surfactants with an HLB value of less than 8.
Examples of such surfactants that may especially be mentioned, alone or as mixtures, include:
1) Saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 poly(oxyethylated) alcohols preferably such as those with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 2 to 4. Examples that may especially be mentioned include laureth-2; steareth-2; oleth-2; deth-3; ceteth-2; ceteareth-3.
2) Saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 mono- or polyesters of ethylene oxide, of propylene oxide, of poly(ethylene oxide) or of poly(propylene oxide), preferably such as those with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 1 to 5, with for example glycol distearate, glycol stearate, PEG-2 oleate; PEG-3 oleate; PEG-4 dilaurate, propylene glycol isostearate; PEG-2.5 castor oil; PEG-3 castor oil;
3) polyoxyalkylenated C12-C20 fatty acid polyesters, which are preferably polyhydroxylated, containing from 4 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide, having water-in-oil emulsifying properties. In particular, these polymers are block polymers, preferably of ABA structure, comprising poly(hydroxylated ester) blocks and polyethylene glycol blocks. The fatty acid of said emulsifying polymer as defined above preferably contains from 14 to 18 carbon atoms. The esters may be chosen in particular from oleates, palmitates or stearates. The polyethylene glycol blocks of said emulsifying polymer as defined above preferably comprise from 20 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide. A polymeric surfactant that is particularly suitable for preparing the compositions of the invention is polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate containing 30 EO, sold under the trade name Arlacel P 135 by the company Croda.
4) Saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 mono- or polyesters of sorbitan, for instance sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan stearate, sorbitan isostearate, mixtures of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate (Arlacel 2121 sold by the company Croda), or sorbitan glyceryl isostearate; sorbitan isostearate mixed with hydrogenated castor oil, stearic acid and white wax (Arlacel 986 sold by the company Croda), and mixtures thereof.
5) Saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 mono- or polyesters of (poly)glycerol that are preferably used are those with a number of glycerol units ranging from 1 to 4. Mention may be made, for example, of polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (Isolan GI 34 sold by the company Evonik Goldschmidt); polyglyceryl-2 sesquiisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (Lameform TGI sold by the company Cognis), glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl laurate, alone or as mixtures.
In accordance with a third embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one silicone surfactant, which is in particular nonionic. The silicone surfactant(s) may be chosen from compounds with an HLB value of greater than or equal to 8, or less than 8.
Among the nonionic silicone surfactants that are suitable for use, mention may be made of alkyl or alkoxy dimethicone copolyols bearing an alkyl or alkoxy chain on the side or at the end of the silicone backbone, containing, for example, from 6 to 22 carbon atoms; dimethicone copolyols, which are more particularly oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethyl methyl siloxanes, branched (poly)glycerolated polysiloxanes, and also crosslinked elastomeric solid organopolysiloxanes comprising at least one oxyalkylene group, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of alkyl or alkoxy dimethicone copolyols that may be mentioned include the compounds of formula (I) below:
in which:
As examples of dimethicone copolyols, use may be made of those corresponding more particularly to formula (II) below:
in which:
Among the silicone surfactants that are particularly preferred, mention may be made of:
Use may be made of the product Abil Care 85 (bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG-16/16 dimethicone as a mixture with capric/caprylic acid triglyceride).
Use may also be made of alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 methicone (which is more particularly an alkoxylated derivative of lauryl methicone containing on average 18 mol of ethylene oxide and 18 mol of propylene oxide, sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning; cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone (which is more particularly a copolymer of cetyl dimethicone and of an alkoxylated derivative of dimethicone containing on average 10 mol of ethylene oxide and 1 mol of propylene oxide) such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt and also the mixture of cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, of polyglyceryl isostearate (4 mol) and of hexyl laurate sold under the name Abil WE 09 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt.
Use may also be made of polyglyceryl-3 disiloxane dimethicone (KF 6100 from Shin-Etsu).
Emulsion surfactants that may also be mentioned include, in particular for water-in-oil emulsions, crosslinked elastomeric solid organopolysiloxanes comprising at least one oxyalkylene group, such as the products obtained according to the procedure of Examples 3, 4 and 8 of US-A-5 412 004 and the examples of U.S. Pat. No. 5,811,487, especially the product of Example 3 (synthetic example) of patent U.S. Pat. No. 5,412,004, and such as the product sold under the references KSG 21 and KSG-210 by the company Shin-Etsu.
Preferably, the C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol that is used is cetyl dimethicone copolyol, especially the product whose INCI name is Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, for instance the product sold under the name Abil EM-90 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt. Use may also be made of a mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol with polyglyceryl-4 isostearate and hexyl laurate, for instance the product sold under the name Abil WE-09 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt (the INCI name is polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (and) hexyl laurate (and) cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone).
Advantageously, if they are present, the silicone surfactant(s) are chosen from dimethicone copolyols, the alkyl dimethicone copolyols described previously, alone or as mixtures.
More particularly, the silicone surfactant(s) are chosen from C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as cetyl dimethicone copolyol (INCI name: Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone), dimethicone copolyols, for instance PEG dimethicone, PEG/PPG 18/18 dimethicones (INCI name), and also mixtures thereof. Use may also be made of a mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol with polyglyceryl-4 isostearate and hexyl laurate, for instance the product sold under the name Abil WE-09 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt (the INCI name is polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (and) hexyl laurate (and) cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone).
Advantageously, in the case where the composition comprises at least one nonionic surfactant, other than the abovementioned polyalkoxylated alcohols, the content of this type of compound ranges from 0.1% to 15% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based nonionic surfactant.
According to an even more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based nonionic surfactant with an HLB value of greater than or equal to 8, other than the abovementioned polyalkoxylated alcohols.
In accordance with this preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition may also comprise, as additional surfactant(s) at least one hydrocarbon-based nonionic surfactant whose HLB value is less than 8; at least one nonionic silicone surfactant, preferably with an HLB value of less than 8; and also mixtures thereof.
In the case where such additional surfactants are present, their content is preferably such that the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.
The composition may optionally comprise one or more ionic, in particular anionic, surfactants, which are preferably hydrocarbon-based.
These surfactants may be chosen from salts of alkali metals especially such as sodium or potassium, or alternatively of primary or secondary amine or alkanolamine, which is in particular of C2-C4, of the following compounds:
These compounds generally comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, in their longest hydrocarbon-based chain, and are saturated or unsaturated, and linear, branched or cyclic. They may also comprise up to 20 oxyalkylene units, preferably up to 15 units (in particular oxyethylene units):
alkyl ether sulfates,
salts of fatty acids especially of C8-C20, in particular monocarboxylic salts;
carboxylates such as salts of N-acylamino acids, alkyl glycol carboxylates, ether carboxylates, amido ether carboxylates;
amino acid salts, in particular sarcosinates, alaninates, glutamates, aspartates and glycinates,
sulfonates, such as alpha-olefin sulfonates, in particular alkanolamine or alkali metal (especially such as sodium) salts of dodecylbenzene sulfonate,
isethionates, such as acyl isethionates,
taurates, such as N-acyl methyl taurates, in particular N-acyl methyl taurates,
sulfosuccinates, such as alkyl sulfosuccinates, especially dioctyl sulfosuccinate salts,
alkylsulfoacetates,
phosphates and alkyl phosphates,
polypeptides obtained, for example, by condensation of a fatty chain onto amino acids from cereals and especially from wheat and oat.
Preferably, when it comprises any, the composition comprises not more than 2.5% by weight, more particularly not more than 1.5% by weight, preferably not more than 1% by weight, or even not more than 0.5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, of salts of alkali metals, of amine or alkanolamine, or of fatty acids, especially of C8-C20.
Advantageously, if they are present, the composition comprises not more than 2.5% by weight, more particularly not more than 1.5% by weight, preferably not more than 1% by weight, or even not more than 0.5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, of anionic hydrocarbon-based surfactant(s).
The composition according to the invention comprises at least 10% by weight of water, relative to the weight of the composition.
Advantageously, the water content is between 10% and 70% by weight, preferably between 15% and 65% by weight, in particular between 20% and 60% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
The composition in accordance with the invention may comprise, besides water, at least one water-soluble solvent.
In the present invention, the term “water-soluble solvent” denotes a compound that is liquid at room temperature and water-miscible (miscibility with water of greater than 50% by weight at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure).
The water-soluble solvents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may also be volatile.
Among the water-soluble solvents that may be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, mention may be made especially of lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes. Preferably, the water-soluble solvent(s) are chosen from monoalcohols containing 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably ethanol or isopropanol.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a total content of monoalcohols comprising between 2 and 8 carbon atoms of between 0 and 15% by weight (limits inclusive) relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a total content of monoalcohols comprising between 2 and 8 carbon atoms of between 0 and 10% by weight (limits inclusive), advantageously between 0 and 5% by weight (limits inclusive) relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of monoalcohols comprising between 2 and 8 carbon atoms.
Preferably, said monoalcohol(s) comprising between 2 and 8 carbon atoms are chosen from ethanol, butanol, methanol and isopropanol.
C2-C8 LIQUID POLYOL
The composition also comprises at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C2-C8 and preferably C2-C6 liquid polyol, comprising from 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups.
Preferably, the polyol is chosen from glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, dipropylene glycol, dibutylene glycol and diglycerol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the composition comprises, as liquid C2-C8 polyol, glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, di-butylene glycol or diglycerol, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the polyol content represents from 0.05% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic thickening polymer (also known as an aqueous-phase-thickening polymer).
More particularly, this thickening polymer may be chosen from:
Mention may also be made of polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymers, preferably modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, most particularly acrylate/C10-C30-alkyl acrylate copolymers (INCI name: Acrylate/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) such as the products sold by the company Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen TR1, Pemulen TR2, Carbopol 1382, Carbopol EDT 2020 and even more preferentially Pemulen TR-2; copolymers of methacrylic acid, of methyl methacrylate, of methylstyrene isocyanate and of PEG-40 behenate (INCI name: polyacrylate-3) (Viscophobe DB 1000 sold by the company Dow),
Other examples of hydrophilic gelling polymers that may be mentioned include:
According to a preferred embodiment, the thickening polymer is chosen from copolymers of acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid and in particular from copolymers of acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, or mixtures thereof.
Preferably, when the composition contains any, the content of hydrophilic thickening polymer is between 0.01% and 1.5% by weight, preferably between 0.05% and 1% by weight and advantageously 0.1% to 0.8%, relative to the weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one pigment. The term “pigments” should be understood as meaning white or coloured, inorganic (mineral) or organic particles, which are insoluble in the medium. These particles are intended to colour and/or opacify the composition and/or deposit produced with the composition, when they are formulated in sufficient quantity.
The pigments may be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments and composite pigments (i.e. pigments based on mineral and/or organic materials).
The pigments are preferably chosen from monochromic pigments, lakes, and pigments with an optical effect, for instance reflective pigments and goniochromatic pigments.
A pigment may be an insoluble dye salt.
A lake more particularly denotes dyestuffs obtained by precipitation or adsorption of a dye onto an insoluble solid pulverulent support. Thus, the assembly thus obtained remains insoluble during use. The inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed may be chosen, for example, from aluminium, silica, sodium calcium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.
The mineral pigments may be chosen from metal oxide pigments, chromium oxides, (black, yellow or red) iron oxides, titanium dioxide, zinc oxides, cerium oxides, zirconium oxides, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue and ferric blue, and mixtures thereof.
The organic pigments may be, for example:
The pigment may also be a lake. The term “lake” means insolubilized dyes adsorbed or precipitated onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
The inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed may be chosen, for example, from aluminium, silica, sodium calcium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.
Among the organic pigments and the lakes, more particular mention may be made of D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5 and FD&C Yellow No. 6.
The preferred pigments are mineral pigments such as titanium oxides, iron oxides, and organic pigments, and also lakes, chosen from D&C Red No. 7 (INCI name: Red 7), FD&C Blue No. 1 (INCI name: Blue 1), FD&C Yellow No. 5 (INCI name: Yellow 5), FD&C Yellow No. 6 (Yellow 6), D&C Red No. 28 (INCI name: Red 28), D&C Red No. 22 (INCI name: Red 22), alone or as mixtures.
Preferably, the pigments have not undergone any surface treatment, directed notably towards modifying the hydrophobic or hydrophilic nature thereof.
It may also be envisaged to use pigments that are in a form predispersed in water, sorbitol, glycerol or glycols, alone or as mixtures, for instance the products of the Covarine, Covasorb and Covasop ranges from Sensient, the pigments of the WD series from Daito, and Worlée Base AQ from Worlée.
Advantageously, the pigment content represents 0.05% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
Additional Dyestuffs
A composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one additional dyestuff other than the abovementioned pigments. Preferably, said additional dyestuff is chosen from water-soluble or water-insoluble, liposoluble or non-liposoluble, organic or inorganic dyestuffs, and mixtures thereof
The water-soluble dyestuffs used according to the invention are more particularly water-soluble dyes.
For the purposes of the invention, the term “water-soluble dye” means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and which is capable of imparting colour. In particular, the term “water-soluble” is intended to characterize the capacity of a compound to be dissolved in water, measured at 25° C., to a concentration at least equal to 0.1 g/l (production of a macroscopically isotropic, transparent, coloured or colourless solution). This solubility is in particular greater than or equal to 1 g/l.
As water-soluble dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made in particular of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, for instance DC Red 6 (Lithol Rubine Na; CI: 15850), DC Red 22 (CI: 45380), DC Red 28 (CI: 45410 Na salt), DC Red 30 (CI: 73360), DC Red 33 (CI: 17200), FDC Red 40 (CI 16035), DC Orange 4 (CI: 15510 Na salt), FDC Yellow 5 (CI: 19140), FDC Yellow 6 (CI: 15985), DC Yellow 8 (CI: 45350 Na salt), FDC Green 3 (CI: 42053), DC Green 5
(CI: 61570), FDC Blue 1 (CI: 42090).
As non-limiting illustrations of sources of water-soluble dyestuff(s) that may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made in particular of those of natural origin, such as extracts of cochineal carmine, of beetroot, of grape, of carrot, of tomato, of annatto, of paprika, of henna, of caramel and of curcumin.
Thus, the water-soluble dyestuffs that are suitable for use in the invention are especially carminic acid, betanin, anthocyans, enocyanins, lycopene, bixin, norbixin, capxanthin, capsorubin, flavoxanthin, lutein, cryptoxanthin, rubixanthin, violaxanthin, riboflavin, rhodoxanthin, cantaxanthin and chlorophyll, and mixtures thereof.
They may also be copper sulfate, iron sulfate, water-soluble sulfopolyesters, rhodamine, betaine, methylene blue, the disodium salt of tartrazine and the disodium salt of fuchsin.
Some of these water-soluble dyestuffs are especially permitted for food use. Representatives of these dyes that may be mentioned more particularly include dyes of the carotenoid family, referenced under the food codes E120, E162, E163, E160a-g, E150a, E101, E100, E140 and E141.
Among the liposoluble dyes, mention may be made particularly of dyes of fluoran type, for instance Sudan Red, FDC Red 4, DC Red 17, Red 21, Red 27, DC Green 6, β-carotene, Sudan Brown, Yellow 10, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 4, DC Orange 5 and quinoline yellow, or mixtures thereof
For the purposes of the present patent application, the term “nacre” means coloured particles of any form, which may or may not be iridescent, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or alternatively synthesized, and which have a colour effect via optical interference.
Examples of nacres that may be mentioned include nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye in particular of the abovementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles, at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs.
The nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or tint.
As illustrations of nacres that may be introduced into the composition, mention may be made of the gold-coloured nacres sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company Engelhard under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the brown nacres sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); the nacres with a copper tint sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red tint sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); the nacres with a yellow tint sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red nacres with a gold tint sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); the pink nacres sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with a gold tint sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), the white nacres with a silvery tint sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver, and the golden-green pink-orange nacres sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona), and mixtures thereof.
The content of dyestuffs is advantageously between 0.05% and 10% by weight and preferably between 0.05% and 5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one filler, of organic or mineral nature.
The term “filler” should be understood as meaning colourless or white solid particles of any form, which are in an insoluble form dispersed in the medium of the composition. These particles, of mineral or organic nature, give body or rigidity to the composition and/or softness and uniformity to the makeup. They are different from dyestuffs.
Among the fillers that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of silica, kaolin, starch, lauroyllysine, fumed silica particles, which are optionally hydrophilic-treated, mica, talc, sericite, polyamide (Nylon®) powder, poly-β-alanine powder and polyethylene powder, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon®), hollow polymer microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance Expancel® (Nobel Industries), acrylic acid copolymer microspheres, silicone resin microbeads (for example Tospearls® from Toshiba), polyorganosiloxane elastomer particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, aluminium oxides, polyurethane powders, composite fillers, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules, and metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate and magnesium myristate, and mixtures thereof.
A composition used according to the invention may comprise one or more fillers in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight and in particular from 0.2% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The hydrophobic thickener may be chosen from mineral thickeners especially such as organophilic clays; hydrophobic fumed silicas; hydrophobic silica aerogels; from organic thickeners such as oil-gelling polymers of the block polymer type, especially triblock or star polymers, resulting from the copolymerization of at least one styrene monomer and of at least one hydrocarbon monomer bearing one or two C2-C5 ethylenic unsaturations, such as ethylene, propylene, butadiene, isoprene and/or pentadiene, such as the polymers sold under the name Kraton; polyamide resins comprising alkyl groups containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as those described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,783,657; polysaccharide alkyl ethers, especially in which the alkyl group is of C1-C24, preferably C1-C10 and better still C1-C6, described especially in EP 898 958, and in particular alkyl guar gums (with a C1-C6 alkyl group), such as those described in EP 708 114; esters of dextrin and of a fatty acid, preferably of C12-C24, in particular C14-C18, for example dextrin palmitate and dextrin myristate; N-acylglutamides in which the acyl group is a linear or branched C8-C22 alkyl chain; preferably dialkyl N-acylglutamides, for instance lauroylglutamic acid dibutylamide or N-2-ethylhexanoyl glutamic acid dibutylamide; hydroxystearic acid; ethylenediamine stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer (sold, for example, under the name Oleocraft by Croda); and also mixtures thereof.
Preferably, when the composition comprises at least one hydrophobic thickener, this thickener is preferably chosen from mineral thickeners.
Clays are silicates containing a cation that may be chosen from calcium, magnesium, aluminium, sodium, potassium and lithium cations, and mixtures thereof. Examples of such products that may be mentioned include clays of the smectite family such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites and saponites, and also of the family of vermiculites, stevensite and chlorites. These clays may be of natural or synthetic origin. Organophilic clays are clays modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyl aryl sulfonates and amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.
Mention may thus be made of hectorites modified with a quaternary amine, more specifically with a C10 to C22 fatty acid ammonium halide, such as a chloride, such as hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride (CTFA name: Disteardimonium hectorite), for instance the product sold under the name Bentone 38V®, Bentone 38V CG or Bentone EW CE by the company Elementis, or stearalkonium hectorites, such as Bentone 27 V.
Mention may also be made of quaternium-18 bentonites, such as those sold under the names Bentone 34 by the company Elementis, Claytone 40 by the company Southern Clay, Tixogel VP by the company United Catalyst; stearalkonium bentonites, such as those sold under the names Tixogel LG by the company United Catalyst and Claytone AF and Claytone APA by the company Southern Clay; or quaternium-18/benzalkonium bentonites, such as those sold under the name Claytone HT by the company Southern Clay.
According to a preferred embodiment, the thickener is chosen from organophilic modified clays, in particular organophilic modified hectorites, in particular modified with stearylbenzyldimethylammonium halides, preferably chlorides, or with distearyldimethylammonium chloride.
The hydrophobic fumed silicas may be obtained by modification of the surface of the silica via a chemical reaction that generates a reduction in the number of silanol groups, these groups possibly being substituted especially with hydrophobic groups. The hydrophobic groups may be:
Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air. They are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the one most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material. The sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker C. J. and Scherer G. W., Sol-Gel Science, New York: Academic Press, 1990.
Use will preferably be made of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups.
Hydrophobic silica aerogels that may be mentioned, for example, include the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have a mean size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2/g. Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by the company Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201, Aerogel TLD 203, Enova® Aerogel MT 1100 and Enova Aerogel MT 1200.
The elastomeric polyorganosiloxanes are generally partially or totally crosslinked and possibly of three-dimensional structure. The elastomeric polyorganosiloxanes combined with a fatty phase are generally in the form of a gel constituted of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane combined with a fatty phase, included in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil. They may be chosen especially from the crosslinked polymers described in patent application EP-A-0 295 886. According to said patent application, the elastomeric organopolysiloxanes are obtained by addition reaction and crosslinking of at least:
The hydrophobic thickener may be present in a content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention may also comprise any common cosmetic ingredient that may be chosen especially from waxes, pasty compounds, additional moisturizers (also known as humectants) other than the abovementioned polyols, antioxidants, fragrances, menthol or menthol derivatives, preserving agents, neutralizers, sunscreens, sweeteners, vitamins, free-radical scavengers, sequestrants, salts (magnesium sulfate, sodium chloride), pH regulators, and mixtures thereof.
Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional ingredients and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
Process for Preparing the Composition
The composition according to the invention is prepared in a manner that is conventional in the field.
Thus, the aqueous phase and the anhydrous (oily) phase are prepared usually, independently of each other, by mixing the appropriate ingredients.
In accordance with a very advantageous characteristic of the invention, the composition may be obtained by using one or more pigments in a form predispersed in at least one liquid C2-C8 polyol, as defined previously.
The premix of the pigment(s) and of the liquid C2-C8 polyol may optionally be combined with water and optionally with at least one surfactant. Preferably, the dispersion comprises, as surfactant, at least one polyalkoxylated alcohol comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, comprising at least 15 alkoxyl, preferably ethoxyl, units.
It should be noted that, preferably, the amount of liquid polyol, where appropriate of water and of polyalkoxylated alcohol, is sufficient so that the pigments are totally mixed. In other words, the amount of the abovementioned liquid(s) is evaluated to be sufficient to wet all of the pigments. In this way, substantially no more, or even no more, dry pigmentary powder (or powder not coated with the liquid(s)) remains. Advantageously, the amount of liquid(s) is evaluated according to the knowledge and general practice of a person skilled in the art, to be the minimum amount, or in slight excess, so as to obtain such a result, and notably so as not to reduce the concentration more than necessary, of the pigments in this mixture.
Thus, the pigments and the polyol, optionally at least a portion of the water of the dispersion, are mixed.
Advantageously, the operation is performed such that a homogeneous mixture is obtained, with deagglomerated pigmentary particles. It is possible, for example, to mix these ingredients with a speed mixer or in a roll mill.
Advantageously, if the dispersion contains water, the remaining amount of water may be mixed with at least one surfactant, at least one of which is the abovementioned polyalkoxylated alcohol.
Optionally, at least one other surfactant may be added thereto, for instance one of those present in the composition and described previously.
Thus, it may be advantageous to use at least one nonionic surfactant from among poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl esters of C8-C30 acid, poly(ethylene oxide) ethers of C8-C30 alcohol comprising less than 15 ethylene oxide units, alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, which are preferably polyoxyethylenated, and also mixtures thereof.
The water/surfactant mixture of the dispersion is prepared with stirring, more particularly at a temperature between room temperature and the melting point of the surfactants, if necessary.
The two mixtures obtained are then placed in contact, with stirring.
Preferably, this step is performed between 20 and 35° C.
The pigment predispersion thus obtained is more particularly used during the process for preparing the composition according to the invention (said composition preferably being free of pigments), or else is added to the composition once it has been obtained (said composition preferably being free of pigments).
Another subject of the invention is a process for making up and/or caring for the lips, which consists in applying the composition according to the invention.
The composition according to the invention may be packaged in any type of device that is common in the field of fluid cosmetic compositions intended especially to be applied to the lips or the face (for instance the cheeks).
It may thus be envisaged to use devices containing a container comprising an applicator equipped with a ball (roll-on), a container of dispensing pen type, terminated with an end provided with at least one orifice through which the composition may be expelled, or alternatively terminated with a felt or with a flocked tip, or with a brush; a container comprising a dip applicator, for instance a brush.
Such devices may or may not be provided with a mechanism for dispensing the composition making it possible to expel said composition from the container to the application member, or to the support. It should be noted that this mechanism may advantageously comprise a means for metering out the composition.
The examples which follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, limiting the scope thereof.
The compositions whose ingredients are listed in tables A and B below are prepared (the percentages are expressed as weight of starting material, unless otherwise indicated):
A. Composition Free of Colouring Species (White Base)
B. Pigmentary Compositions
Procedures
1. Preparation of the Pigmentary Compositions
The pigment is mixed with the polyol (butylene glycol, propylene glycol or glycerol) with stirring using a Speedmixer machine (two times 3 minutes, 3500 rpm).
Independently, the water is heated to 60° C. with the surfactant (isoceteth-20 or ceteareth-33), with stirring.
Once the surfactant has dissolved, the mixture comprising the pigment obtained previously is added to this mixture. Mixing is performed by stirring, with the heating switched off. The stirring is continued for 10 to 15 minutes.
2. Preparation of the Composition Free of Colouring Species
The water and the preserving agent are mixed and the polysorbate 60 is then added, with stirring, at 50° C., using a deflocculator, until the mixture is homogeneous, and the heating is stopped.
The thickening polymer is then added with stirring until the mixture has thickened without lumps of gels.
The silicone resin and the isododecane are then poured slowly onto the mixture obtained previously, while increasing the stirring speed, and stirring is continued for 10 minutes.
Finally, the trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone is added slowly and stirring is continued for 10 minutes.
3. Preparation of the Coloured Composition
Five compositions are prepared by mixing the dye-free composition with each of the pigmentary compositions, in a weight ratio such that the content of Red 7 pigment represents 0.5% by weight of the final composition (95% by weight of the dye-free composition; 3.33% by weight of the pigmentary composition and made up to 100% by weight with water).
Evaluation of the Compositions
Direct, homogeneous, stable emulsions are obtained each time (centrifugation for 1 hour at 900×g).
For each composition, no pigments are visible to the naked eye and good pigment dispersion is obtained.
The compositions apply easily to the lips.
When the compositions are applied to the cheeks, a comfortable, non-tacky, coloured deposit is obtained.
The gloss of the deposits obtained immediately after application of the compositions is satisfactory.
The deposits are fresh, very thin and comfortable, without any sensation of dryness, and with little or no tack.
Finally, they show good persistence of the colour on the lips and good transfer resistance.
The composition is deposited in several stainless steel dishes 100 μm deep and is levelled off as quickly as possible. The dishes are left to dry at room temperature for one hour.
The apparatus used is a TAXT2i texturometer. The clip mounted on the apparatus grips an AU4G cylinder 6 mm in diameter at the end of which is attached a smooth beige-coloured end piece made of synthetic skin, which has the same diameter and is 2 mm thick.
The end piece is cleaned with ethanol between each measurement.
Several measurements are never taken at the same place of the deposit.
The parameters of the compression tests with maintenance over time are indicated below:
The tackiness is characterized by the separation force measured during the pressure reduction (pull phase), corresponding to the integral of the curve under the time axis. This force is expressed positively in joules per square metre.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1855591 | Jun 2018 | FR | national |
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP2019/066375 | 6/20/2019 | WO | 00 |
