Patent Grant
11547644
The invention relates to an emulsion comprising a certain alkyl ester quat, consistency regulator and cosmetic oil.
The invention enables the preparation of cosmetic emulsions that have long-term stability and have a pleasantly dry skin feel with simultaneously considerably improved biodegradability and ecotoxicity of the cationic emulsifier used compared to the related art.
Cationic emulsions have been used for many years primarily in North America, but increasingly also in other regions, especially in the area of cosmetic skincare. The particular advantage of these systems is that, even when using extremely rich oils such as petrolatum or mineral oil, they exhibit rapid absorption into the skin and leave behind a very dry skin feel. Furthermore, these emulsions are characterized in that they have a long-lasting moisturizing effect. Moreover, they exhibit film-forming properties which make them of interest in principle also for sun protection applications.
U.S. Pat. No. 4,389,418 describes skincare compositions based on petrolatum or mineral oil, a cationic emulsifier, fatty alcohol and an ester oil. These compositions have moisturizing properties but at the same time also exhibit a non-greasy, pleasant sensory effect upon application to the skin.
The emulsions described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,389,418 are based on dimethyldialkylammonium salts, preferably on dimethyldistearylammonium chlorides (distearyldimonium chloride).
On account of the very good emulsifying performance of this emulsifier and the corresponding storage stability and flexibility of these emulsions, distearyldimonium chloride has hitherto been the most used emulsifier for cationic emulsions for cosmetic applications.
However, in recent years questions relating to the sustainability and environmental compatibility of cosmetic products have become increasingly important. Cosmetic ingredients should preferably be characterized by good biodegradability and low environmental toxicity. These properties of possible cationic emulsifiers should of course be improved but the application properties of the cosmetic emulsions produced therewith should in no way be restricted.
Possible alternatives described hitherto for such cationic emulsion systems for cosmetic applications are primarily ester quats which are obtainable by esterification of fatty acids with a chain length of C16-C22 with triethanolamine or methyldiethanolamine and subsequent quaternization.
U.S. Pat. No. 7,597,881 describes sunscreen emulsions primarily based on such ester quats which have a sand-repellent effect.
However, emulsions based on such ester quats exhibit stability problems upon long-term storage, especially at elevated temperatures. For this reason, the use of ester quats in cosmetic emulsions for applications to the skin has hitherto not become established in the market.
EP2783677 describes cosmetic formulations comprising ester quats based on isopropanolamine, and the use of these ester quats in cosmetics. The described ester quats here comprise alkyl radicals with at least one unsaturated fatty acid having a chain length of from 18 to 24 carbon atoms or an acyl radical of isostearic acid or ricinoleic acid. Such ester quats are suitable for cosmetic haircare products. However, they do not exhibit adequate stabilization of cosmetic emulsions and are therefore unsuitable for producing cationic emulsions for skincare applications.
It was therefore an object of the invention to develop emulsions that have long-term stability and are based on cationic emulsifiers which permit considerably better emulsion stabilization than the systems based on ester quats described hitherto.
Surprisingly, it has been found that the emulsions described hereinbelow are able to solve the problem addressed by the invention.
The present invention therefore provides an emulsion, comprising:
The present invention also provides a cosmetic care and/or cleaning formulation, comprising:
the above emulsion.
Further, the present invention provides an emulsifier, comprising:
One advantage of the present invention is that the alkyl ester quats present in the emulsions according to the invention have a considerably better environmental profile than distearyldimonium chloride, the hitherto gold standard of cationic emulsifiers in the cosmetics sector.
It is an advantage of the invention that the emulsions according to the invention exhibit an advantageous, pleasantly light, non-sticky skin feel. This skin feel advantageously corresponds here to the skin feel which systems with distearyldimonium chloride also typically have. Consequently, classic emulsion systems based on distearyldimonium chloride can be converted in a simple manner into more environmentally friendly emulsion systems with comparable application properties.
A further advantage of the present invention is that the alkyl ester quats used in the emulsions according to the invention can usually be prepared completely free from solvents, whereas the distearyldimonium chloride typically used in cosmetics comprises small residual amounts of solvents such as e.g. isopropyl alcohol.
Also advantageous is in particular the large formulation flexibility of the emulsions according to the invention, meaning that tailored formulations can easily be developed for a broad field of applications based on these emulsions. In this connection, advantages as regards the water resistance of these formulations compared to other formulation concepts can be observed in the field of sun protection and make-up in particular.
The present invention therefore provides an emulsion comprising
The present invention also relates to the above emulsion characterized in that
In another embodiment, the above emulsion is characterized in that
In yet another embodiment, the above emulsion is characterized in that
In another embodiment, the above emulsion is characterized in that the mass fraction of radicals R1 from unsaturated, linear fatty acids having a chain length of from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular 16 to 18 carbon atoms, is from 5% by weight to 35% by weight, preferably from 10% by weight to 30% by weight, very particularly preferably from 15% by weight to 25% by weight, based on all of the acyl radicals R1.
In another embodiment, the above emulsion is characterized in that the consistency regulator is selected from the group consisting of fatty alcohols having 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms, particularly preferably 16-18 carbon atoms,
In another embodiment, the above emulsion is characterized in that the cosmetic oil is selected from the group consisting of silicone oils, functionalized silicones, mineral oils, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol ethers, natural oils such as vegetable oils, animal oils and mixtures thereof.
Further, the above emulsion is characterized in that it is a cosmetic care and cleaning formulation, in particular for skin and skin appendages.
In addition, the present invention relates to the use of alkyl ester quats of the general formula I as emulsifier.
Mixtures of ester quats which may be present in the emulsions according to the invention are of course encompassed; data relating to the number of units (specifically the values a and b) which may be present multiple times in the ester quats are to be understood as average values, averaged over all of the corresponding compounds.
The emulsions comprise e.g. the components A), B) and C). Preferred embodiments of the emulsions according to the invention in which only part ranges of the components A), B) or C) are present are naturally automatically free from components of the less preferred ranges.
Thus, e.g. preferred emulsions in which A) alkyl ester quats of the general formula I where R1 is an acyl radical of the fatty acid with a chain length of from 12 to 22 carbon atoms are present comprise no alkyl ester quats of the general formula I where R1 is an acyl radical of a fatty acid with a chain length of from 6 to 11 and 23 to 24 carbon atoms.
Unless otherwise stated, all percentages (%) given are percentages by weight.
It is preferred according to the invention if the mass fraction of radicals R1 from unsaturated, linear fatty acids with a chain length of from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular 16 to 18 carbon atoms, is from 5% by weight to 35% by weight, preferably from 10% by weight to 30% by weight, very particularly preferably from 15% by weight to 25% by weight, based on all of the acyl radicals R1.
Preferred emulsions according to the invention are characterized in that
Particularly preferred emulsions according to the invention comprise
In this connection, it is particularly preferred if the mass fraction of radicals R1 from unsaturated, linear fatty acids of 16 to 18 carbon atoms is from 15% by weight to 30% by weight, based on all of the acyl radicals R1.
Very particularly preferred emulsions according to the invention comprise
In this connection, it is particularly preferred if the mass fraction of radicals R1 from unsaturated, linear fatty acids of 18 carbon atoms is from 15% by weight to 30% by weight, based on all of the acyl radicals R1.
Preferred consistency regulators that are preferably present in the emulsions according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of
The consistency regulators here are, for example:
Fatty alcohols having 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 14 to 22, particularly preferably 16-18,
Glyceryl esters or polyglyceryl esters, preferably having an average degree of polymerization of at most 4, with at least one alkyl chain having 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 14 to 22, particularly preferably 16-18,
Fatty acids having 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 14 to 22, particularly preferably 16-18,
Polymer-based thickeners such as e.g. cellulose, cellulose derivatives such as e.g. hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, alkyl-modified cellulose types, such as, for example, cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, guar, alkyl-modified guar types, such as, for example, C18-22 hydroxylalkyl hydroxypropyl guar, starch derivatives, alkyl-modified starch derivatives, xanthan gum, gellan gum, and also polyquaternium compounds such as, for example, polyquaternium-37.
Cosmetic oils that can be used are substances such as silicone oils, functionalized silicones, mineral oils, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol ethers, natural oils such as vegetable oils, animal oils, and mixtures thereof.
Preferred oils which are preferably present in the emulsions according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of
Preferred emulsions according to the invention comprise, as cosmetic oil, at least one selected from the group comprising, preferably consisting of, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclomethicone, dimethicone, dimethiconol, amodimethicone, PEG/PPG dimethicones, cetyl dimethicone, stearyl dimethicone, stearoxy dimethicone, behenoxy dimethicone, polyisobutene, petrolatum, mineral oil, hydrogenated polydodecene, hydrogenated polydecene, polydecene, isoamyl cocoate, PPG-3 myristyl ether, PPG-11 stearyl ether, dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl carbonate, cetearyl isononanoate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, diethyhexyl carbonate, cetyl ricinoleate, myristyl myristate, stearyl heptanoate, decyl cocoate, decyl oleate, ppg-15 stearyl ether, octyldodecanol, isocetyl palmitate, cetearyl ethylhexanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl palmitate, PPG-14 butyl ether, triisostearin, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, phenoxyethyl caprylate, isopropyl myristate, isoamyl cocoate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, sunflower oil, olive oil, argan oil, mineral oil, castor oil, ricinus oil, cocoa oil, palm oil, coconut oil, avocado oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, wheat germ oil, walnut oil and oleyl erucate.
The emulsions according to the invention are preferably oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions.
The emulsions according to the invention therefore preferably comprise water, in particular in an amount of from 20% by weight to 90% by weight, preferably 30% by weight to 85% by weight, particularly preferably 50% by weight to 80% by weight, where the percentages by weight refer to the total emulsion.
The emulsions according to the invention are in particular cosmetic care and cleaning formulations, in particular for skin and skin appendages. The use of the emulsions according to the invention is also advantageous in sun protection, make-up and antiperspirant/deodorant products.
The term “care formulation” is understood here as meaning a formulation which satisfies the purpose of retaining an article in its original form, of reducing or avoiding the effects of external influences (e.g. time, light, temperature, pressure, soiling, chemical reaction with other reactive compounds that come into contact with the article) such as, for example, ageing, soiling, material fatigue, bleaching, or even of improving desired positive properties of the article.
Emulsions according to the invention thus comprise in particular creams, lotions and sprays for body care, face care, hand care and foot care, sun protection emulsions, make-up emulsions, mascara products, antiperspirant/deodorant emulsions, sera, impregnation emulsions for wet wipes, make-up removers, BB (blemish balm) or CC (color control) creams. The use of the emulsions according to the invention is also possible as leave-in conditioner, hair treatment or in oil-containing shampoos and shower baths.
Cosmetic care and cleaning formulations according to the invention can for example comprise at least one additional component selected from the group of:
Substances which can be used as exemplary representatives of the individual groups are known to the person skilled in the art and can be found for example in EP2273966A1. This patent application is herewith incorporated as reference and thus forms part of the disclosure.
As regards further optional components and the amounts used of these components, reference is made expressly to the relevant handbooks known to the person skilled in the art, for example K. Schrader, “Grundlagen und Rezepturen der Kosmetika [Fundamentals and formulations of cosmetics]”, 2nd edition, pages 329 to 341, Hüthig Buch Verlag Heidelberg.
The amounts of the particular additives are governed by the intended use.
Typical guide formulations for the respective applications are known related art and are contained for example in the brochures of the manufacturers of the particular basic materials and active ingredients. These existing formulations can usually be adopted unchanged. If necessary, the desired modifications can, however, be undertaken without complication by means of simple experiments for the purposes of adaptation and optimization.
The present invention further provides the use of the alkyl ester quats of the general formula I present in the formulations according to the invention as emulsifier, preferably oil-in-water emulsifier, in particular in cosmetic care and cleaning formulations, especially for skin and skin appendages.
The examples listed below illustrate the present invention by way of example, without any intention of restricting the invention, the scope of application of which is apparent from the entirety of the description and the claims, to the embodiments specified in the examples.
932 g (3.3 mol) of stearic acid (98% pure) are mixed with 253 g (1.72 mol) of methyldiisopropanolamine and heated to 180° C. with stirring. Water of reaction is distilled off continuously. After the majority of the water of reaction has been distilled off at atmospheric pressure, reduced pressure is applied and the acid number of the reaction mixture is reacted away to <7 mg KOH/g. The resulting ester amine is cooled to 60° C. and admixed in portions with 197 g (1.56 mol) of dimethyl sulphate, such that the reaction temperature does not exceed 100° C.
After cooling to room temperature, the total amine number (TAN) and the active content of the finished product were analyzed.
TAN=4.5 mg KOH/g; active content 1.22 meq/g
1075 g (3.9 mol) of fatty acid C16-18 and C18 unsaturated (iodine value 20.2) were mixed with 297 g (2.02 mol) of methyldiisopropanolamine and esterified analogously to Example 1.
The acid number of the ester amine was 6.5 mg KOH/g. This mixture was reacted with 229.5 g (1.82 mol) of DMS (dimethyl sulphate) as described in Example 1. The finished product had a TAN of 4.9 mg KOH/g and an active content of 1.29 meq/g.
1020 g (4 mol) of palmitic acid (technical grade, approx. 98% pure) were admixed with 302 g (2.05 mol) of methyldiisopropanolamine and esterified as described under Example 1. The ester amine had an acid number of 5.6 mg KOH/g. This mixture was alkylated with 240 g (1.90 mol) of dimethyl sulphate as described in Example 1.
The TAN of the finished product was determined with 4.8 mg KOH/g, the active content was 1.33 meq/g.
684.6 g (2.0 mol) of behenic acid (Edenor C22 85 GW) were esterified with 152.5 g (1.03 mol) of methyldiisopropanolamine as described in Example 1. The ester amine had an acid number of 6.1 mg KOH/g. The reaction mixture was admixed with 58.4 g (0.464 mol) of DMS and stirred in the temperature range of 80-100° C. for 30 minutes. Then, 100 ml of isopropanol were added and a further 58.4 g (0.464 mol) of DMS was added dropwise such that the temperature can be kept in the range 80-100° C.
The product had a TAN of 5.5 mg KOH/g and an active content of 0.97 meq/g.
887 g (4.0 mol) of coconut fatty acid C12-18 (Edenor K 1218) were mixed with 305 g (2.06 mol) of methyldiisopropanolamine and esterified as described under Example 1. The reaction mixture had an acid number of 5.9 mg KOH/g. The reaction mixture was then alkylated with 233.3 g (1.85 mol) of DMS analogously to Example 1. The finished product had a TAN of 5.2 mg KOH/g and an active content of 1.49 meq/g.
1378 g (5.17 mol) of palm stearic acid (iodine number 34.2) are admixed with 385.5 g (2.62 mol) of methyldiisopropanolarnine and reacted as described under Example 1. The ester amine had an acid number of 6.7 mg KOH/g. This reaction mixture was alkylated analogously to Example 1 with 300.6 g (2.38 mol) of DMS. The finished product had a TAN of 5.1 mg KOH/g and an active content of 1.32 meq/g.
Corresponding to Example 1 of EP2783677, 1120 g (4 mol) of mixed vegetable oil fatty acid were mixed with 302 g (2.05 mol) of methyldiisoproparolamine and heated to 180° C. with stirring. Water of reaction was distilled off continuously. After the majority of the water of reaction had been distilled off at atmospheric pressure, reduced pressure was applied and the acid number of the reaction mixture was reacted away to <7 mg KOH/g. The resulting ester amine was cooled to 60° C. and admixed in portions with 240 g (1.90 mol) of dimethyl sulphate such that the reaction temperature does not exceed 100° C.
After cooling to room temperature, the total amine number (TAN) and the active content of the finished product were analyzed.
TAN=5.0 mg KOH/g; active content 1.27 meq/g (cationic active content according to Epton).
Here, the commercial product VARISOFT EQ 65 from Evonik Industries AG was used.
Here, the commercial product REWOQUAT WE 28 from Evonik Industries AG was used.
Storage Stability
In the formulation examples 1-1 to 1-6, it was shown compared to Examples C1 to C4 that stable O/W emulsions can be prepared with the help of emulsifiers according to the invention. The emulsions were in each case prepared in a classic hot-hot process in which oil and water phase were heated separately to approx. 75° C. Then, the oil phase was added to the water phase with stirring and then homogenized for 60 seconds. Finally, at approx. 30° C., the preservative was added, the mixture was stirred briefly and then the pH was adjusted to approx. 6.
The emulsion examples according to the invention were stable for at least three months at room temperature, 5° C., 40° C. and 45° C. and successfully also withstood a triple freeze-thaw cycle between room temperature and −15° C.
The comparison emulsions not according to the invention, by contrast, rapidly exhibited water separation especially during storage at elevated temperature, and thus no stabilities acceptable for cosmetic formulations.
The selected emulsion formulations correspond here to typical emulsion systems as were for example also used on the basis of the emulsifier distearyldimonium chloride.
1)Euxyl PE 9010 (Schülke)
1)Euxyl PE 9010 (Schülke)
Here, the emulsions 1 to 6 according to the invention were also characterized by the typical skin feel as can be attained for example with comparable emulsions based on the emulsifier distearyldimonium chloride. The emulsions have a dry, non-greasy sensory effect and were characterized by rapid absorption into the skin and a dry skin feel after soaking into the skin.
Furthermore, it was to be demonstrated that the emulsifiers according to the invention exhibit a significantly better biodegradability and a significantly better ecotoxicity than the standard of the dialkylquat distearyldimonium chloride hitherto customary in the market.
Consequently, an emulsifier according to the invention (Example 2) was investigated compared to distearyldimonium chloride with the help of various OECD tests. The results reveal a significantly better biodegradability of the emulsifier according to the invention. Furthermore, significantly increased and therefore advantageous limiting values were found for the emulsifier according to the invention from Example 2 for the long-term toxicity towards fish and for the short-term and long-term toxicity towards invertebrate aquatic animals.
The examples thus demonstrate clearly that the emulsion systems according to the invention offer clear advantages over the known related art in that they show how environmentally friendly cationic emulsion systems can be synthesized for cosmetic care applications.
The concentration data in the following formulations are in percent by mass.
O/W Lotion
This example is intended to show that it is also very readily possible to add the emulsifier according to the invention to the water phase.
1)Euxyl PE 9010 (Schülke)
2)TEGIN M (Evonik Industries AG)
Sunscreen emulsion with SPF 50
3)Ganex WP-660 (Ashland Specialty Chemicals)
4)UV Titan M040 (Merck Performane Materials)
5)Eusolx T-Avo (Merck Performance Materials)
6)TEGO Care CG 90 (Evonik Industries AG)
7)Cosmedia Ultragel 300 (BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH)
Antiperspirant/Deodorant Lotion
8)Natrosol 250 HHR (Ashland Specialty Chemicals)
9)Reach 501L (Reheis)
Lotion with Cosmetic Active Ingredients
10)TEGO Care PBS 6 (Evonik Industries AG)
11)TEGO Pep 4-17 (Evonik Industries AG)
12)TEGO Cosmo C 100 (Evonik Industries AG)
13)Phenonip XB (Clariant International Ltd.)
O/W Serum
14)HYACARE Filler CL (Evonik Industries AG)
15)HYACARE 50 (Evonik Industries AG)
Sprayable Lotion
16)ABIL Wax 9801 (Evonik Industries AG)
Cationic Sunscreen
Cationic Foundation
17)Hombitan AC 360 (Sachtleben)
18)Unipure Yellow LC 182 (Sensient Technologies)
19)Unipure Red LC 381 (Sensient Technologies)
20)Unipure Black LC 989 (Sensient Technologies)
O/W Soft Cream
21)ABIL Care 85 (Evonik Industries AG)
O/W Blemish Balm Lotion
22) Uvinul A Plus (BASF SE)
23) TEGOLON ECO 10-10 (Evonik Industries AG)
24) Microcare MEM (Thor Personal Care)
Preservative-Free Lotions
25) Dermosoft LP (Dr. Straetmans Chemische Produkte GmbH)
26) Dermosoft OMP (Dr. Straetmans Chemische Produkte GmbH)
O/W Soft Cream
27) KSG-15 (Shin Etsu)
28) DC 9045 Elastomer Blend (Dow Corning)
European patent application EP 15174954.6 filed Jul. 2, 2015, is incorporated herein by reference.
Numerous modifications and variations on the present invention are possible in light of the above teachings. It is therefore to be understood that within the scope of the appended claims, the invention may be practiced otherwise than as specifically described herein.
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| 15174954 | Jul 2015 | EP | regional |
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| Number | Date | Country | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 20170000709 A1 | Jan 2017 | US |
