This application claims benefit from U.S. provisional application No. 61/549,746, filed Oct. 20, 2011, the content of which is incorporated herein by reference.
The present invention relates to the field of fabricating fabric straps used in garment industry. More specifically, it relates to a fabric strap with varied width and, preferably, filled with internal free-floating yarns, particularly useful in female undergarments.
The fabric strap is an important article in the garment industry, where technique innovation has brought about generations of updated products. Particularly, such advance has greatly improved the design for visual effects with respect to graphic patterns, colors, and post-fabrication modifications. In contrast to the advance in visual designs, however, no significant progress has been made in terms of structure and functionality of the fabric strap. Mostly, the fabric strap stays in the form which is uniform in thickness and in width, which cannot generally meet users' need for comfortableness in wearing the undergarment. Taking the shoulder strap in female underwear for example, the shoulders are typically under a greater stress caused by the strap when the underwear is worn. The shoulder strap should be wider, thicker and softer in the section or segment which is in contact with the shoulder. On the other hand, for the segment in contact with the chest and the back, there is a lower stress exerted on the strap and thus the strap should be lighter and thinner, which would be aesthetically more pleasing and also make the sewing process easier. Taking the waist belt for another example, both the sides of the waist bear a higher stress, especially in people with overweight, and can easily generate red imprinted marks on the skin. Some prior effort has been made to solve the problem. For example, Chinese Patent No. 200520053900.9 disclosed a fabric strap which is a woven fabric comprising a segment which is a tubular structure. At such segment, there is provided a lateral penning through which soft loose fillers can be inserted into the segment and, to prevent the fillers entering other parts of the strap, the segment is provided with closure means at both ends. While such a strap has a segment stuffed with soft filler at the places where softness is desired to relieve the stress exerted on the skin, the solution is time-consuming and thus increases the cost of the production. Furthermore, it also produces inferior visual effects.
Another effort is also known, which provides a fabric strap with varied width, that is, having a segment which is wider than other segments and such wider segment corresponds to an area which exerts greater stress on the user, such as in the shoulder area. However, for such strap to be made in a single integral woven process, the width is generally correlating to the longitudinal elasticity, i.e., the wider the segment is, the greater the elasticity is. This property is undesirable because for the strap used in the undergarment, the segment in contact with the shoulder, for example, needs a wider width to relieve the stress exerted on the shoulder but it should also need a lower elasticity so that it can sufficiently sustain the weight of the breasts. To address this problem, a frequently used method is to connect (usually by sewing) a wider segment of a lower elasticity with narrower segments of higher elasticity, instead of making it in single integral woven process. Obviously, such method complicates the production processes and is unsuitable for automation, resulting in a reduced production efficiency. In addition, the sewing seams between the connected segments can cause skin allergies, red imprints, or uncomfortable feel, due to the friction between them and the skin.
One object of the present invention is accordingly to provide an integral woven fabric strap with varied width. The strap is produced in a single integral woven process and requires no additional sewing step and it comprises wider sections and narrower sections connected alternatively. The wider section has lower elasticity and higher strength, whereas the narrower section has higher elasticity and lower strength. The wider section provides a larger contact surface between the strap and the skin, and reduces the stress exerted on the skin. At the same time, its lower elasticity and higher strength increase the shoulder strap as well as the underwear's ability to support even the most fully-developed breasts and help maintain them in a perfect cleavage profile. The narrower section with a smaller width makes the appearance of underwear aesthetically more pleasing.
In another aspect of the present invention, there is provided an integral woven fabric strap with varied width, which comprises two types of integrally woven segments or sections. One type of the segment is wider and is a tubular structure containing internally a plurality of free-floating yarns, making it relatively thicker, fluffier, softer and functioning like a cushion. The other type of the segment is narrower, thinner and lighter. The two types of segments are integrally woven together through the change of warp and weft interweaving patterns and do not require additional step of sewing to connect them. The free-floating yarns are independent warp yarns integrally woven with the main body of the strap and fixed at the interface between the two types of segments. Within the first type of segment (i.e. the one which is thicker, fluffier and wider), the free-floating yarns are entirely internal (thus, cannot be seen) and loosely fill the internal space of a tubular structure with the two ends fixed at the upper and lower ends of the segments, respectively. This type of segment is usually positioned at the shoulder position (for a should strap) or the side positions (for a waistband). For being wider, thicker and softer, these segments relieve the fabric strap's stress on the skin and make it feel more comfortable to the wearers. The free-floating yarns continue to the interface between the two types of segments, which can be either integrated and woven into the second type segment (i.e., the thinner and narrower segment) where two layers of the tubular structure and free-floating yarns from the first type segment are all integrated into a single layered, non-tubular structure which becomes the second type segment, or alternatively the free-floating yarns are running to the outside of the strap and be cut off while the two layers of the tubular structure are integrated into a single layer of the second type segment and thus become thinner, lighter, and smoother. As such, the second type segment is aesthetically more appealing and easier for applying the sewing process in the production of the garment.
These and some other objects have been achieved by practicing the present invention as exemplified in the detailed description section of this application.
The various features of novelty which characterize the invention are pointed out with particularity in the claims annexed to and forming a part of this disclosure. For a better understanding of the invention, its operating advantages, and specific objects attained by its use, reference should be made to the drawings and the following description in which there are illustrated and described preferred embodiments of the invention.
For all the embodiments described herewith, the fabricating equipment used is an electronic shuttleless loom, manufactured by Muller of Swiss (Model No: NFJM2 4/42).
Type I: Fabric Straps with Varied Width
Adjusting spandex yarn warps 310 dtex (covered spandex) wrap yarns pass through individual heddles. In the wider segment, one half of adjusting spandex yarn warps are interwoven with both the upper-layer warps and lower layer warp simultaneously in the weaving pattern: one in the upper position-one in the lower position as shown in
Heald frame and computer controlled individual heddles drive the up-and-down motion of heddles to divide warps into upper layer and lower layer to form an opening (shed) according to the required weave diagrams (as shown in
Preferable weaving patterns of the upper layer, lower layer and fill layer of the fabric strap of this exemplary strap are shown in
Suitable weaving patterns for the adjusting spandex yarn warps in the wider segment includes, for example, one in the upper position-one in the middle position, two in the upper position-two in the middle position, one in the upper position-one in the middle position-one in the lower position-one in the middle position, two in the upper position-two in the middle position-two in the lower position-two in the middle position. Suitable weaving patterns for the adjusting spandex yarn warps in the narrower segment includes, for example, three in the middle position-one in the lower position-three in the lower position-one in the middle position, five in the middle position-one in the lower position-five in the lower position-one in the middle position, two in the lower position-two in the middle position, three in the middle position-one in the lower position, three in the lower position-one in the middle position, five in the lower position-one in the middle position, five in the lower position-one in the upper position, three in the lower position-one in the upper position, seven in the lower position-one in the middle position, seven in the lower position-one in the upper position, etc.
The outer surface of the strap is a napped surface or an unnapped surface. The strap of the present invention can use Chinlon, Spandex, Polyester and other raw materials. In case that the outer surface is napped, it can use Chinlon, which shows a better effect. The raw materials that may be used in practicing the present invention are not limited to those disclosed in the specification, and should be determined according to the required parameters like thickness, elasticity, strength, width, etc.
Type II: Fabric Straps with Varied Width and Internal Free-floating Yarns
This particular embodiment of the present invention provides a fabric stripe whose overall shape is shown in
(1) Warping Preparation: Warps include the following: free-floating yarns (●) 111/36/2 SD Nylon, 81 ends; framework spandex yarns (◯) 930 dtex spandex, 28 ends; upper-layer yarns×44/34/2 SD Nylon, 93 ends; lower-layer yarns §44/34/2 SD Nylon, 93 ends; yarns connecting the upper layer and lower layer (▴) 78/24/2SD Nylon, 31 ends; upper and lower double-layer yarns (Δ) 44 dex spandex, 60 ends (30 are in the upper layer and the other 30 are in the lower layer). All yarns pass through the warping pan head for preparation.
(2) Drafting: All warps are threaded through the heddle according to the predetermined draft plain as shown
(3) Thread count: The weft thread count the first type of segment (i.e., the segment containing free-floating yarns) is 11.7 picks/cm (centimeter) and it is 25 picks/cm in the second type of segment (i.e., the segment without free-floating yarns) as well as in the transition area (i.e., the interface between the first type segment and the second type segment.
(4) Width and Reed: the strap width is controlled by varying the reed's orientation. The widest width of the strap is 17 mm (millimeter) and the narrowest width is 14 mm. The reed used is a Y-type reed with the specification of 15/30 (i.e. there are 15 sluts per inch at the upper widest position and 30 sluts per inch at the lower narrowest position). The yarns are threaded through the Y-type reed according to the reeding order of the drafting plan shown in
(5) Wefts: Both the upper wefts and lower wefts are 78/24 SD Nylon and the lock yarn is 78/24/1 SDNylon.
(6) Motion Rules and Weaving Patterns: The first type segment (i.e., with free-floating yarns) is a tubular structure. As shown in
As shown in
At the transition area (i.e., the interface between the two types of segment), the free-floating yarns are interwoven with both the upper-layer and lower layer yarns in a weaving pattern: one in the upper position-one in the lower position. Thus, the floating yarns are fixed at both ends at the transition areas.
Heald frames and computer-controlled individual heddles drive the up-and-down motion of heddles to divide warps into upper layer and lower layer and to form an opening (shed) according to the predetermined weaving patterns (shown in
(7) Weft Picking and Beating-up: The weft hook drives wefts to traverse the shed and the latch needle winds up the wefts or edges. Wefts adjust the weft yarn conveying device through the weft density adjusting gear so that within the wider segment, more weft yarns are fed in, leading to a higher weft thread count; within the narrower segment, less weft yarns are fed in, resulting in lower weft thread count.
(8) The rubber wheel rotates to wind up the strap and the thread count is adjusted by the driving device so that the weft thread count can be varied at different segments.
(9) The free-floating yarns which are exposed to the outside the strap in the second type of segments are cut off in the semi-finished product.
(10) The final step is then carried out, i.e., forming and dyeing.
Weaving Patterns for the Segment Containing Free-Floating Yarns
Preferred weaving patterns for the upper layer, lower layer and fill layer of the fabric strap of the present invention are shown in
Weaving Patterns for the Segment without Free-Floating Yarns
The weaving patterns for the upper-layer fabric includes, for example, three in the upper position-one in the middle position-three in the middle position-one in the upper position, five in the upper position-one in the middle position-five in the middle position-one in the upper position, one in the upper position-one in the middle position, two in the upper position-two in the middle position, three in the upper position-one in the middle position, three in the middle position-one in the upper position, three in the upper position-one in the lower position, five in the upper position-one in the middle position, five in the upper position-one in the lower position, etc. The weaving patterns for the lower-layer fabric include, for example, three in the middle position-one in the lower position-three in the lower position-one in the middle position, five in the middle position-one in the lower position-five in the lower position-one in the middle position, one in the lower position-one in the middle position, two in the lower position-two in the middle position, three in the middle position-one in the lower position, three in the lower position-one in the middle position, five in the lower position-one in the middle position, five in the lower position-one the upper position, three in the lower position-one in the upper position, seven in the lower position-one in the middle position, seven in the lower position-one in the upper position, etc. The weaving patterns for the free float yarns include, for example, all in the middle position, one in the upper position-one in the middle position-one in the lower position, one in the upper position-seven in the middle position-one in the lower position-seven in the middle position, one in the upper position-nine in the middle position-one in the lower position-nine in the middle position, etc.
The outer surface of the fabric strap can be napped or non-napped surface. The raw material of the yarns used can be Chinlon, Spandex, Polyester, to name just a few. The free-floating yarns can be Chinlon, Spandex, Polyester or other fluffy raw materials. For a napped outer surface, a preferred material is Chinlon, which shows a better effect. The raw material selection for practicing the present invention is within ordinary skill in the art and therefore is not part of the present invention. In general, material selection is determined according to required parameters such as, for example, thickness, elasticity, and width of the strap. The material and the number of free-floating yarns are determined according to the plumpness and the degree of the cushion effect.
The fabric strap of the present invention can be elastic or non-elastic. It can also be of a plain weaving pattern or a decorative pattern, and decorative edgings may be added as desired.
As a variation of the present invention, the strap may contain the segment of the first type, that is, segment containing internal free-floating yarns in a tubular woven structure divided by a middle layer of framework yarns, but unlike the previous mode where both sides of the middle layer are filled with free-floating yarns, only one side of the middle layer is filled with free-floating yarns. This mode may be preferable in some situations because one side of the strap is soft with cushion effects due to the presence of free-floating yarns while the surface of the other side is more flat, smooth and flushed with the narrower section (i.e. the half without free-floating yarns), which is esthetically more pleasing.
For the above variation, there are 60 threads of free-floating yarns ● 111/36/2 SD Nylon (the number of threads and the type of the raw material can be changed as desired according to particular requirements in terms of cushioning effect and thickness) in the weaving pattern: seven in the middle position-one in the upper position (other pattern may also provide satisfactory results, such as, for example, seven in the middle position-one in the lower position, five in the middle position-one in the upper position, all in the middle position, eleven in the middle position and one in the upper position, etc.). Other structures and steps of the making the strap are the same as described in the foregoing for the other mode.
There is still another mode of the present invention, which is based on all previously described embodiments of the present invention. In the previously described embodiments, the free-floating yarns are exposed to the outside of the strap at the intersection between the first type and second type segments and are then cut off therefrom. In this further variation, the free-floating yarns are not cut off but woven into the strap itself in the narrower second type segment. This mode is suitable where it does not require significant cushion effect and thus fewer free-floating yarns are necessary (for example, 20-60 yarns of 111/36/2 SD Nylon). An exemplary weaving pattern of this mode is presented in
As a further mode to carry out the present invention, the free-floating yarns are not integrally woven inside the strap. Instead, they are injected into the tubular structure at the second type segment of the strap using a yarn-injecting machine as shown in
In summary, with a simple structure having integrally woven two different types of segments (one of which contains internally filled free-floating yarns), the fabric strap of the present invention is conducive to production automation and can be manufactured with high production efficiency compared to the existing technology. The fabric strap of the present invention may be used as underwear's shoulder straps, girdles and waist belts. Due to the presence of internally provided soft, thick and free-floating yarns at one segment, it feels comfortable when in contact with the skin. Furthermore, the other segments containing no free-floating yarns, which are thinner and narrower and tightly woven, are more esthetically pleasing.
While there have been described and pointed out fundamental novel features of the invention as applied to a preferred embodiment thereof, it will be understood that various omissions and substitutions and changes, in the form and details of the embodiments illustrated, may be made by those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit of the invention. The invention is not limited by the embodiments described above which are presented as examples only but can be modified in various ways within the scope of protection defined by the appended patent claims. It is further understood that the present invention is primarily in the idea itself, which can be practiced by people of ordinary skill in the art even without referring to the details of the foregoing specification. For example, selection of yarn materials and design of weaving patterns can be carried out by ordinarily skilled people in practicing the present invention.
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Number | Date | Country | |
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20140110015 A1 | Apr 2014 | US |