Patent Application
20230010185
The current invention relates to a fabric or textile material product that has variable fabric properties, such as density, thickness, and/or stiffness, and is suitable for use in garments such as bras, shoulder pads, knee garments, and the like.
The listing or discussion of a prior-published document in this specification should not necessarily be taken as an acknowledgement that the document is part of the state of the art or is common general knowledge.
Current bras or bra cups, which are made of various materials including foam or polyurethane, are not sustainable in many ways. For example, the use of the starting raw materials and the method of manufacture is not sustainable, and the final product also causes problems in terms of its disposal once its useful life has been completed. As such, there is a need to find alternative products and methods of manufacture that are at least more sustainable in terms of manufacture and use of raw materials.
The current invention provides a sustainable alternative solution for current bra cups (and associated products) as well as other suitable garments or fabric/textile products. The invention relates to a fabric or textile material that has variation in fabric properties, such as density, thickness, and/or stiffness. The fabric has a plurality of fabric regions, each fabric region formed from at least one set of yarns, such as by knitting. For example, the fabric regions may be formed by flat knitting and the fabric may be flat or has some shape such as to conform to the user's body. The fabric is moulded to and the fabric regions have different fabric properties from each other. For example, the fabric regions may include a wire fabric region that has been stiffened from moulding and has high density and stiffness. The moulded fabric can be used to form a bra cup and the wire fabric region can be created for supporting a user's breast.
The materials used in the moulded fabric belong to the same family of thermoplastic polymer materials (i.e. mono-polymer materials) to facilitate recyclability. Preferably, the materials are sustainable materials (e.g. recycled materials, bio-based materials, and recyclable materials). The mono-polymer materials enable easy recycling without complicated material segregation and separation processes and the mono-polymer materials themselves can already be recycled materials. This enables circularity of the materials and improves the circular material use rate, thus furthering sustainability of the materials.
The invention will now be described by reference to the following numbered clauses.
In a first aspect of the invention, there is provided a fabric having variable fabric properties, the fabric comprising: a plurality of fabric regions, each fabric region formed from at least one set of yarns; and the sets of yarns of the fabric regions belonging to a common family of thermoplastic polymer materials, wherein the fabric is moulded and the fabric regions have different fabric properties from each other. The variable fabric properties comprise at least one of density, thickness, and stiffness.
In embodiments herein, the word “comprising” may be interpreted as requiring the features mentioned, but not limiting the presence of other features. Alternatively, the word “comprising” may also relate to the situation where only the components/features listed are intended to be present (e.g. the word “comprising” may be replaced by the phrases “consists of” or “consists essentially of”). It is explicitly contemplated that both the broader and narrower interpretations can be applied to all aspects and embodiments of the present invention. In other words, the word “comprising” and synonyms thereof may be replaced by the phrase “consisting of” or the phrase “consists essentially of” or synonyms thereof and vice versa.
The phrase, “consists essentially of” and its pseudonyms may be interpreted herein to refer to a material where minor impurities may be present. For example, the material may be greater than or equal to 90% pure, such as greater than 95% pure, such as greater than 97% pure, such as greater than 99% pure, such as greater than 99.9% pure, such as greater than 99.99% pure, such as greater than 99.999% pure, such as 100% pure. When used herein, the term “substantially identical” is intended to refer to a dimension that is essentially identical, but for variations introduced by the knitting machine. For example, the term may mean that a dimension varies by less than 5%, such as less than 2%, such as less than 1%, such as less than 0.5%, such as less than 0.05%, such as the dimension is essentially uniform.
The sets of yarns that form the fabric regions belong to the same family of thermoplastic polymer materials. Thermoplastic polymer materials are a class of polymers that can be softened and melted by the application of heat, and can be processed in the heat-softened state, such as for moulding. The family of thermoplastic polymer materials may be polyamides, polyester, polyolefin, and polyurethane. In addition, each set of yarns may be formed from one or more materials belonging to the same family of thermoplastic polymer materials. For example, a set of yarns may be formed from inelastic yarns, elastic yarns, or a combination of both. That is, the set of yarns may be formed using any suitable material for use in textiles that may or may not include an elastic material as the entirety of the yarns or as part of blended yarns.
Any suitable textile yarns may be used in the sets of yarns, provided they belong to the same family of thermoplastic polymer materials. However, specific types of yarns may be required, depending on the desired functionality. For example, the yarns may be selected for wicking, breathability, water repellent, liquid retaining, anti-microbial, anti-odour and/or thermal comfort properties. The yarn selections may be done in a manner to enable various properties of the final product via different types of yarns made out from the same family of thermoplastic polymer materials. Each component of the final product may comprise different yarns with different properties. These different yarns are used and knitted (such as by a knitting machine) in certain ways which will behave differently during moulding, giving required fabric properties in the final product. For example, the yarns may differ by at least one of yarn count, filament count, length of polymer chain, glass transition temperature, and material modulus or stiffness.
The thickness variation of the fabric regions is determined by the density of tuck stitches (or tuck stitch density or weft directional tuck frequency). If the tuck stiches are closer to each other (all needle tuck) then the thickness is high. If the tuck stiches are far from each other, then the thickness will be low. This frequency can go down to the level of no tuck stiches at all. When used herein, the density of tuck stitches along a course affects the thickness of the course itself across its length. For example, the density of tuck stitches may be the same across the course length. In this case, the thickness of the particular course will be even across its length, though it may be thicker or thinner than adjacent courses even when they make use of the same thickness of spacer yarn, as the adjacent courses may use a higher or lower density of tuck stitches across their length. Alternatively, the density of the tuck stitches may vary along the course. For example, there may be a low density (or no) tuck stitches at peripheral regions of the course, while the central region of the course may have a high density of tuck stitches. As such, the course shows a thicker middle than peripheral regions. As will be appreciated any variation of this the above is possible to achieve the desired thickness across the courses.
The thickness of the fabric regions may also be controlled by varying the thickness of the sets of yarns of the fabric regions, such as spacer yarns. This may enable courses that have an substantially identical density of tuck stitches to nevertheless have a different thickness due to the difference in thickness of the spacer yarns used in the respective courses. Examples of thickness of spacer yarns that may be used herein may be from 10 to 700 Denier. For example, a thin spacer yarn may have a thickness of from 10 to 50 Denier, such as from 15 to 40 Denier, such as about 17 Denier. A medium-thickness spacer yarn may have a thickness of from 50 to 300 Denier, while a thick spacer yarn may have a thickness of from 300 to 700 Denier, such as from 400 to 600 Denier. In addition, if one wants to generate a very thin fabric region, then this may be possible through the use of a set of spacer yarns that includes yarns that are elastic or stretchable in nature.
For a bra cup or bra cookie, there may be an area that is preferably thinner, where support is needed, but concealment is not significantly required (such as the main body of a breast). However, there may also be an area where concealment is desired, such as in the area of the nipples and this area may require a much thicker material than for other parts of the bra in order to provide the desired concealment. This can be readily provided, as shown in
It will be appreciated that in
The bra cup fabric 100 in
The different fabric properties of the fabric regions may be formed by varying thicknesses of the fabric regions and/or varying compression of the fabric during moulding. For example, the thicknesses of the fabric regions are varied by varying formation of the fabric from the respective sets of yarns. The thicknesses of the fabric regions may be varied by varying at least one of: the density of tuck stitches of the sets of yarns of the fabric regions; the thickness of the sets of yarns of the fabric regions; and knit structure of the fabric regions. For example, the knit structure is formed by inlay knitting.
In some embodiments, a fabric region is created to have bi-directional thickness variation. The frequency of tuck stitches can control the thickness of the fabric region in one direction (e.g. in the X direction), while the yarn count (diameter/thickness) of the yarns (e.g. spacer yarns) used allows for the thickness of the fabric region to be controlled in the other direction (e.g. in the Y direction). Thus, a combination of frequency of tuck stiches and the different (various thickness) spacer yarns used along/across the fabric, allows for thickness variation in both the X and Y directions.
In addition or alternative to the variable tuck stitch density for the fabric regions 110, 111, and 112, the thickness of the fabric 100 can also be influenced by type of material, such as spacer yarns, used to generate the tuck stitches.
As shown in
As will be appreciated, the design used in
Suitable cross-sections of the fabrics disclosed herein are depicted in
In some embodiments of the invention that may be mentioned herein, the first and second sets of yarns may each comprise a main yarn and a plating yarn, where each main yarn forms an outer surface and the plating yarn forms an interior surface of the respective first and second surface layers. As used in this context, the outer surface of the first and second surface layers refers to the exterior side of the respective layer, i.e. the surface of the first and second surface layers that is exposed to the environment or a wearer's body. The inner surface of the first and second surface layers refers to the interior surface of the respective layer, i.e. the surface of the first and second surface layers that is within the fabric product and exposed to the set of spacer yarns, and is not exposed to the environment or body of a wearer. This may be beneficial when the fabric product is intended to have specific functionality. For example, a wicking yarn may be used on an exterior surface that is intended to be in contact with the body of a wearer, to assist with wicking moisture away from a wearer's skin and improve breathability of the fabric product. In contrast, a water repellent yarn might be desirable on an exterior surface that is intended to be exposed to the environment, in order to prevent the fabric product from becoming overly wet or saturated with moisture when worn outside in the rain.
The main yarns 215, 225 in the embodiment of
In
Particular products that may be mentioned herein may include ones where the fabric is patterned to provide one of a bra cup or a bra cookie for making a bra. In such products, the fabric may be patterned to provide one or more bra cup zones or one or more bra cookie zones for making a bra. For example, wherein each bra cup or bra cookie is patterned to have a first, a second, and a third fabric region, the fabric regions having different fabric properties from each other, such that: the first fabric region corresponds to an outer peripheral region of the bra cup or bra cookie and has a lower thickness than the second fabric region; the second fabric region corresponds to a region of the bra cup or bra cookie between the first and third fabric regions and has a lower thickness than the third fabric region; and the fabric third region corresponds to a central region of the bra cup or bra cookie and has a higher thickness than the first and second fabric regions. For example, the first fabric region has a lower thickness than the second fabric region because the first fabric region has a lower tuck stitch density than the second fabric region and/or the first fabric region has a set of spacer yarns with a diameter/thickness smaller than a set of spacer yarns used in the second fabric region.
In the same or an alternative embodiment, the bra cup or bra cookie may be patterned to further have a fourth and a fifth fabric region, such that: the fourth fabric region corresponds to a region of the bra cup or bra cookie between the third and fifth fabric regions and has a thickness lower than the third fabric region; and the fifth fabric region corresponds to an outer peripheral region of the bra cup or bra cookie and has a thickness lower than the fourth fabric region. For example, the fourth fabric region has a higher thickness than the fifth fabric region because the fourth fabric region has a higher tuck stitch density than the fifth fabric region and/or the fourth fabric region has a set of spacer yarns with a diameter/thickness larger than a set of spacer yarns used in the fifth fabric region. An example of this arrangement is depicted in
The yarns used in each fabric region of the fabric belong to the same family of thermoplastic polymer materials. The family of thermoplastic polymer materials may be polyamides, polyester, polyolefin, and polyurethane. Examples of thermoplastic materials that may be used herein include, but are not limited to, polyesters, nylons, polypropylenes, thermoplastic polyurethanes (TPU), acrylics, blends thereof, and combinations thereof. These materials may form the whole or part of certain yarns that are used in the fabric. That is, they may form blends with other fabric materials. As will be appreciated, the thermoplastic materials need to be present in a sufficient quantity for the moulded shape to be retained after the moulding process has taken place. Therefore, the thermoplastic yarns may be present in an amount of from 10 wt %, 20 wt %, 30 wt %, 40 wt %, 50 wt %, 60 wt %, 70 wt %, 80 wt % or 90 wt %.
In some embodiments, one or more fabric regions comprises a first surface layer formed from a first set of yarns, a second surface layer formed from a second set of yarns, and a set of spacer yarns between the first and second surface layers. The first and/or second yarns may comprise a material with elastic properties, such as at least 10 wt % or, more particularly, 15 wt % of an elastic material. Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that the use of elastic material may help the fabric product to retain its shape, this is because the stretch recovery properties of the elastic material ensure that the shape is maintained; and/or the elastic material reduced the drapeability of the fabric and provides the fabric with structural support, thereby enabling the fabric to maintain its shape. The use of elastic material may also add stretchability to the fabric material, leading to increased wearer comfort. Given this, the use of an elastic material may enable the fabric product to better conform to the body of a wearer. Elastic materials may also be useful in certain specific applications, such as sportswear (e.g. sports bras). The plating yarns (when present) of the first and second sets of yarns may be formed from yarns having elastic properties. For example, the plating yarns may comprise at least 15 wt % of an elastic material.
As described above, the fabric is moulded and the fabric regions have different fabric properties from each other. As shown in
The heat from the moulding should be enough to bring the thermoplastic polymer materials of the fabric to their glass transition temperatures, at which point the thermoplastic polymer materials alter from a glass-like rigid solid state to a more flexible state. In this flexible state, the male component 131 and a female component 132 compress the fabric and form it into desirable depth, shape, profile, and contours. More specifically, the male component 131 and a female component 132 vary the compression of the fabric and allows for a desirable mass density variation to be obtained across the entirety of the fabric. In one example, the area required to have the highest mass density can be achieved by applying highest compression pressure at said area of the fabric where the original knitted material (before moulding) is the thickest. By compressing the area with the thickest knitted material of the fabric, the volume at said area is minimized, thus maximizing the mass density. In another example, the area required to have the highest thickness of the original knitted material can be achieved by not applying compression pressure at said area of the fabric. Since the area with the thickest knitted material is not compressed, the thickness and volume are the highest and the mass density is the lowest. In yet another example, two fabric regions have the same thickness of knitted material before moulding. One fabric region is compressed more than the other fabric region during moulding. As a result, the fabric region that is more compressed would be denser and stiffer than the other fabric region. High compression of a fabric region may be desired for the wire fabric region 125 to achieve a stiff bra underwire functionality. Alternatively or additionally, the wire fabric region 125 is made of a material from the same family of thermoplastic polymer materials such that the wire fabric region 125 stiffens in response to heat treatment during the moulding process.
In some embodiments, the moulding process is a single moulding process to achieve mass density variations in the bra cup 400. Particularly, the moulding process can be used to achieve different fabric properties in different places of the bra cup 400, such as to create the functionality of a bra underwire by the stiff wire fabric region 125 as shown in
In some embodiments, the moulding process is a two-stage moulding process to achieve different properties in different places of the bra cup 400. For example, in the first stage, the fabric is moulded into the bra cup 400. The wire element for creating the wire fabric region 125 is then added to the area of the moulded bra cup 400 where the bra underwire properties are required. The wire fabric region 125 is then moulded in the second stage of the moulding process to integrate the wire fabric region 125 with the moulded bra cup 400.
As will be apparent from the foregoing, the fabric of the invention provides a number of benefits. The fabric has plural fabric region with fabric properties that are varied across the fabric. For example, the thickness of the fabric regions may be varied at any point by varying one or more of the density of tuck stitches and/or the thickness of the spacer yarn that is used to form the tuck stitches. The density of the fabric product may be varied at any point by varying the compression pressure applied to the fabric during moulding. This can be used to achieve certain properties at certain areas of the fabric product, such as to create a bra underwire effect in a bra cup. The yarns, which are made from the same family of thermoplastic polymer materials, may be selected and positioned to provide numerous additional functionalities. For example, wicking properties, breathability properties, water repellent properties, liquid retaining properties, anti-microbial properties, anti-odour properties and/or thermal comfort.
Various embodiments herein describe the fabric product as a bra cup, bra cookie, or bra. The fabric product may include other garments such as shoulder pad or a knee garment (e.g. knee guard).
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 10202010445Y | Oct 2020 | SG | national |
| PCT/SG2021/050494 | Aug 2021 | SG | national |
| PCT/SG2021/050495 | Aug 2021 | SG | national |
The current invention claims the benefits of Singapore Patent Application No. 10202010445Y filed on 21 Oct. 2020, PCT Patent Application No. PCT/SG2021/050494 filed on 24 Aug. 2021, and PCT Patent Application No. PCT/SG2021/050495 filed on 24 Aug. 2021, all of which are incorporated in their entirety by reference herein.
| Number | Date | Country | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Parent | PCT/SG2021/050609 | Oct 2021 | US |
| Child | 17819356 | US |
