Patent Grant
10051918
The present invention relates to an article of footwear and, in particular, footwear including a knit upper with curving structures.
Articles of footwear typically include an upper and a sole structure attached to the upper. When the upper is knitted, it is conventionally knitted has a flat, U-shaped template. The ends of the U are brought together and sewn, generating a stitch/seam line along the heel. Stitch lines contact the foot of the user, creating discomfort via friction. Accordingly, it would be desirable to provide a knit upper with a stitchless and/or seamless heel.
An article of footwear includes a sole structure and an upper attached to the sole structure. The upper is formed from a textile including strands oriented in a predetermined configuration and interlocked via knitting. The knit configuration further includes truncated rows operable to generate a curved structure within the upper.
Like reference numerals have been used to identify like elements throughout this disclosure.
As described herein with reference to the example embodiment of
The upper 105 includes and/or defines a plurality of sections that cooperate to define the foot cavity. A heel section 210 includes heel cup configured to align with and cover the calcaneus area of a human foot. A lateral quarter section 215, disposed forward the heel section 210, is oriented on the lateral shoe side 205B. Similarly, a medial quarter section 220, disposed forward the heel section 210, is oriented on the medial shoe side 205A. A vamp section 225 is disposed forward the quarter sections 215, 225; moreover, a toe cage section 230 is disposed forward the vamp section. The upper 105 may further include an instep cover section 240 configured to align and span the instep area of the foot as well as a planum section or footbed 300 (
Referring to
Referring to
The instep cover 240 is configured to span the dorsum portion of the midfoot (i.e., the instep). The instep cover 240 may be formed integrally (stitchlessly and/or seamlessly) with the medial quarter section 220. As best seen in
The instep cover 240 may include one or more narrow, elongated openings or slots 260 operable to permit passage of the fastener 120 therethrough. The instep cover 240 may also include additional openings or windows 285 operable to improve airflow into/out of the upper.
The forefoot region 200A of the upper 105 includes the vamp section 225, which extends forward from the lateral 215 and medial 220 quarters, being formed integrally therewith. The vamp section 225 includes the throat line 250 within its proximal region and toe cage 230 within its distal region, the toe cage being configured to span the toes of the foot.
In an embodiment, the upper 105 (or one or more sections) is a textile formed via knitting. Knitting is a process for constructing fabric by interlocking a series of loops (bights) of one or more strands organized in wales and courses. In general, knitting includes warp knitting and weft knitting. In warp knitting, a plurality of strands runs lengthwise in the fabric to make all the loops. In weft knitting, one continuous strand runs crosswise in the fabric, making all of the loops in one course. Weft knitting includes fabrics formed on both circular knitting and flat knitting machines. With circular knitting machines, the fabric is produced in the form of a tube, with the threads running continuously around the fabric. With a flat knitting machine, the fabric is produced in flat form, the strands/loops alternating back and forth across the fabric. In an embodiment, the upper 105 is formed via flat knitting utilizing stitches including, but not limited to, a plain stitch; a rib stitch, a purl stitch; a missed or float stitch (to produce a float of yarn on the fabric's wrong side); and a tuck stitch (to create an open space in the fabric). The resulting textile includes an interior side (the technical back) and an exterior side (the technical face), each layer being formed of the same or varying strands and/or stitches. By way of example, the textile may be a single knit/jersey fabric, a double knit/jersey fabric, and/or a plated fabric (with yarns of different properties are disposed on the face and back). In a specific embodiment, the textile is a double knit fabric formed via a flat knitting process. An exemplary knitting capable of forming the upper 105 includes the CMS 730 S or the CMS 530 H, both available from H. Stoll GmbH & Co. KG, Stollweg 1, Reutlingen, Del.
Utilizing knitting, the entire upper 105 (or selected sections) may be configured as a unitary structure (i.e., it may possess a unibody construction) to minimize the number of seams utilized to form the shape of the upper. For example, the upper 105 may be formed as a one-piece template, each template portion being integral with adjacent template portions. Accordingly, each section 210, 215, 220, 225, 230, 240, 300 of the upper 105 may include a common strand interconnecting that section with adjacent sections (i.e., the common strand spans both sections). In addition, the connection between adjacent sections may be stitchless and seamless. By stitchless and/or seamless, it is meant that adjacent sections are continuous or integral with each other, including no edges that require joining by stitches, tape, adhesive, welding (fusing), etc.
Referring to
The non-planar areas are achieved through the selective placing of loops (or the selective omission of loops) within the textile structure. In an embodiment, the contoured or curved portion of the heel cup and/or toe cage is formed via course truncation. As explained above, a knit structure includes strands with interlocked loops organized in wales and courses. The courses run horizontally within the structure, while the wales run vertically within the structure. In flat knitting, strands (and thus the loops) alternate back and forth across the fabric. Typically, the each course is worked laterally from a first lateral edge to a second lateral edge. Referring to
In this manner, truncation of the courses generates distortion in the knit construction 500. Specifically, contours or curvatures result, with fully truncated rows generate outward curvature in the flat knit construction 500. Accordingly, the knit construction 500 may nest short rows of various lengths to generate a desired contour the knit structure 500. For example, defining a horizontal, heel axis and then organizing courses such that the greatest degree of truncation occurs proximate the axis, with course length gradually increasing in a direction away from the axis (indicated by arrows CL). As seen best in
As noted above, a flat knitting machine such as the Stoll CMS 730 S or the CMS 530 H, both available from H. Stoll GmbH & Co., Reutlingen, Del. may be utilized to form the planar and non-planar areas.
Referring back to
The resulting upper 105 is illustrated in
The lateral quarter section 215 and the medial quarter section 220 stitchlessly and seamlessly couple with the planum section 300. In conventional knit uppers, the heel section and planum section contain a seam resulting from the particular knit process utilized. Prior art uppers are generally formed via either circular knitting or flat knitting. In circular knitting, a large textile tube is formed such that the upper is a textile element forming a smaller portion of the tube wall that must be separated from the larger tube structure. Once removed, the textile element is generally planar, so the outer edges must be must be folded toward each other, overlapped, and secured together (via stitching, adhesive, etc.). Thus, while the textile element initially is flat, upon folding of the textile element and formation of the seams, an upper is formed that defines a void capable of receiving a foot. Seams are formed when joining the edges of the textile element. Specifically, a seam exists along the length of upper, extending along the planum section and the heel section.
In conventional flat knitting processes, the resulting template is again completely flat in the heel and/or planum sections. It is necessary to secure the edges together, requiring stitching along the heel and/or planum sections to form the upper. An example of this conventional upper formation is provided in, e.g., U.S. Pat. No. 7,347,011.
This is in contrast with the upper 105 of the present invention, which is seamless and stitchless along both the heel section 210 (including the heel cup 600) and the planum section 300, where the heel section 210 is seamlessly coupled with the planum section 300. This is the result of the heel cup 600 being a flat-knitted curve. The desired degree of curvature of the heel cup 600 may be any suitable for its described purpose (to receive the heel of the foot).
The strands forming the knitted textile (and thus the upper 105) may be any natural or synthetic strands suitable for their described purpose (i.e., to form a knit upper). The term “strand” includes one or more filaments organized into a fiber and/or an ordered assemblage of textile fibers having a high ratio of length to diameter and normally used as a unit (e.g., slivers, roving, single yarns, plies yarns, cords, braids, ropes, etc.). In a preferred embodiment, a strand is a yarn, i.e., a continuous strand of textile fibers, filaments, or material in a form suitable for knitting, weaving, or otherwise intertwining to form a textile fabric. A yarn may include a number of fibers twisted together (spun yarn); a number of filaments laid together without twist (a zero-twist yarn); a number of filaments laid together with a degree of twist; and a single filament with or without twist (a monofilament).
The strands may be heat sensitive strands such as flowable (fusible) strands and softening strands. Flowable strands are include polymers that possess a melting and/or glass transition point at which the solid polymer liquefies, generating viscous flow (i.e., becomes molten). In an embodiment, the melting and/or glass transition point of the flowable polymer may be approximately 80° C. to about 150° C. (e.g., 85° C.). Examples of flowable strands include thermoplastic materials such as polyurethanes (i.e., thermoplastic polyurethane or TPU), ethylene vinyl acetates, polyamides (e.g., low melt nylons), and polyesters (e.g., low melt polyester). Preferred examples of melting strands include TPU and polyester. As a strand becomes flowable, it surrounds adjacent strands. Upon cooling, the strands form a rigid interconnected structure that strengthens the textile and/or limits the movement of adjacent strands.
Softening strands are polymeric strands that possess a softening point (the temperature at which a material softens beyond some arbitrary softness). Many thermoplastic polymers do not have a defined point that marks the transition from solid to fluid. Instead, they become softer as temperature increases. The softening point is measured via the Vicat method (ISO 306 and ASTM D 1525), or via heat deflection test (HDT) (ISO 75 and ASTM D 648). In an embodiment, the softening point of the strand is from approximately 60° C. to approximately 90° C. When softened, the strands become tacky, adhering to adjacent stands. Once cooled, movement of the textile strands is restricted (i.e., the textile at that location stiffens).
One additional type of heat sensitive strand which may be utilized is a thermosetting strand. Thermosetting strands are generally flexible under ambient conditions, but become irreversibly inflexible upon heating.
The strands may also include heat insensitive strands. Heat insensitive strands are not sensitive to the processing temperatures experienced by the upper (e.g., during formation and/or use). Accordingly, heat insensitive strands possess a softening, glass transition, or melting point value greater than that of any softening or melting strands present in the textile structure and/or greater than the temperature ranges specified above.
The strand further includes strands formed of elastomeric material, i.e., and elastic strand. Elastic strands, by virtue of their composition alone, are capable of stretching under stress and recovery to its original size once the stress is released. Accordingly, elastic strands are utilized to provide a textile upper with stretch properties. An elastic strand is formed rubber or a synthetic polymer having properties of rubber. A specific example of an elastomeric material suitable for forming an elastic strand is an elastomeric polyester-polyurethane copolymer such as elastane, which is a manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is a long chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 85% of segmented polyurethane.
In contrast, an inelastic is formed of a non-elastomeric material. Accordingly, by virtue of composition alone, inelastic strands possess no inherent stretch and/or recovery properties. Hard yarns are examples of inelastic strands. Hard yarns include natural and/or synthetic spun staple yarns, natural and/or synthetic continuous filament yarns, and/or combinations thereof. By way of specific example, natural fibers include cellulosic fibers (e.g., cotton, bamboo) and protein fibers (e.g., wool, silk, and soybean). Synthetic fibers include polyester fibers (poly(ethylene terephthalate) fibers and poly(trimethylene terephthalate) fibers), polycaprolactam fibers, poly(hexamethylene adipamide) fibers, acrylic fibers, acetate fibers, rayon fibers, nylon fibers and combinations thereof.
In an embodiment, the upper 105 includes an inelastic strand possessing a topology that enables it to provide mechanical stretch and recovery within the knit structure. In an embodiment, the inelastic strand is a hard yarn texturized to generate stretch within the yarn. In a preferred embodiment, the inelastic strand is a bicomponent strand formed of two polymer components, each component possessing differing properties. The components may be organized in a sheath-core structure. Alternatively, the components—also called segments—may be oriented in a side-by-side (bilateral) relationship, being connected along the length of the strand. As seen in
In a further embodiment, the first segment of 405 is formed of a polymer possessing a first shrinkage rate (when exposed to wet or dry heat) and the second segment 410 is formed of a polymer possessing second shrinkage rate. Accordingly, when the strand 400 is exposed to heat, the component 405, 410 of the strand shrink at different rates, generating coils within the strand.
By way of example, the strand 400 is a polyester bicomponent strand. A polyester bicomponent strand is a continuous filament having a pair of polyesters connected side-by-side, along the length of the filament. Specifically, the polyester bicomponent strand 400 may include a poly(trimethylene terephthalate) and at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of poly(ethylene terephthalate), poly(trimethylene terephthalate), and poly(tetramethylene terephthalate) or a combination thereof. By way of example, the polyester bicomponent filaments include poly(ethylene terephthalate) and poly(trimethylene terephthalate) in a weight ratio of about 30/70 to about 70/30. In a preferred embodiment, the first polyester component 405 is a 2GT type polyester polyethylene terephthalate (PET) and the second polyester component 410 is a 3GT type polyester (e.g., polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT)). In an embodiment, the 2GT type polyester forms about 60 wt % of the strand, while the 3GT type polyester forms about 40 wt % of the strand. As noted above, the strand 400 may be in the form of, without limitation, a single filament or a collection of filaments twisted into a yarn.
With the above configuration, when exposed to heat, the first polymer (polyester) segment 405 shrink/contracts at a different rate than the second polymer (polyester) segment 410. This, in turn, produces a regular, helical coil along the length of the strand 400. In an embodiment, the contraction value of each polymer segment 405, 410 may range from about 10% to about 80% (from its original diameter). The strand 400 may possess an after-heat-set crimp contraction value from about 30% to about 60%.
The helical coil of the strand 400 generates non-elastomeric, mechanical stretch and recovery properties within the strand (e.g., the filament or yarn). That is, the strand possesses mechanical stretch and recovery without the need to texturize the strand, which reduces strand durability. A bicomponent strand, moreover, possesses increased recovery properties compared to elastic strands at stretch levels of less than 25%. The recovery power of elastic strands increases with increasing stretch (e.g., 100% or more). Stated another way, the further an elastic strand is stretched, the better it recovers. At low stretch levels, elastic strands generate low recovery power. This is a disadvantage in footwear uppers, where the amount of stretch required during use is minimal (e.g., less than 25%).
The bicomponent strand 400 may possess any dimensions suitable for its described purpose. By way of example, the bicomponent strand 400 may be present within the textile as yarn having a denier of from about 70 denier to about 900 denier (78 dtex to 1000 dtex) and, in particular, from about 100 denier to about 450 denier.
The entire upper 105 or sections thereof may be formed completely of bicomponent strands 400. In an embodiment, the upper 105 is formed with a combination of bicomponent strands and non-bicomponent strands such as heat sensitive strands. The bicomponent strand 400 can be present from about 20% by weight to about 95% by weight (e.g., about 25%—about 75% by weight) based on the total weight of the textile structure (the entire upper 105 or sections thereof). Stated another way, the ratio of the bicomponent strand 400 to other strands within the structure may be about 10:1 to about 1:10 (e.g., 1:1).
It should be understood that a strand may be categorized in a combination of the above categories. For example, a polyester yarn may be both a heat insensitive and an inelastic strand, as defined above.
The vamp 225 may further include a microclimate modulation structure operable to affect movement of heat, air, and/or moisture (e.g., vapor) within the foot cavity 332. The temperature modulation structure includes strands selected to possess predetermined thermal conductivity values positioned at selected locations within the knit construction of the textile. Referring to
In an embodiment, the temperature modulation structure 700 includes first, high thermal conductivity strands and second, low thermal conductivity strands. High conductivity strands are strands that transfer heat along its length (axis) and/or width (transverse dimension) at a higher rate than low thermal conductivity strands. In an embodiment, high thermal conductivity strands are strands formed (e.g., entirely formed) of material possessing a thermal conductivity value greater than 0.40 W/m K. By way of example, the strands may be formed of high density polyethylene (HDPE, 0.45-0.52 @23 C) and/or ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UWMW-PE, 0.42-0.51 W/m K @23 C).
In a further embodiment, high thermal conductivity strand is a strand that possessing an axial thermal conductivity of at least 5 W/m K (e.g., at least 10 W/m K or at least 20 W/m K). The high thermal conductivity strand may be a multifilament fiber such as a gel-spun fiber. By way of specific example, the high conductivity strand is a gel-spun, multifilament fiber produced from ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMW-PE), which possesses a thermal conductivity value in the axial direction of 20 W/m K (DYNEEMA, available from DSM Dyneema, Stanley, N.C.).
The low thermal conductivity strand, in contrast, transfers heat along its length (axis) and/or width (transverse dimension) at a lower rate than that of the high thermal conductivity strand. In an embodiment, the low thermal conductivity strand is formed (e.g., entirely formed) of material possessing a thermal conductivity of no more than 0.40 W/m K. By way of example, the low conductivity strand may be formed of low density polyethylene (LDPE, 0.33 W/m K @23 C), nylon (e.g., nylon 6; nylon 6,6; or nylon 12) (0.23-0.28 W/m K @23° C.), polyester (0.15-0.24 W/m K @23° C.), and/or polypropylene (0.1-0.22 W/m K @23 C).
In another embodiment, the low thermal conductivity strand possesses an axial thermal conductivity (as measured along its axis) that is less than the axial conductivity of the high conductivity strands. By way of example, the low thermal conductivity strands possess an axial thermal conductivity value of less than 5 W/m K when high thermal conductivity strand possesses a thermal conductivity of greater than 5 W/m K; of less than 10 W/m K when high conductivity strand possesses a thermal conductivity of at least 10 W/m K; and/or less than 20 W/m K when high conductivity strand possesses a thermal conductivity of greater than 20 W/m K. Exemplary low thermal conductivity strands include strands formed of polyester staple fibers (axial thermal conductivity: 1.18 W/m K); polyester filament strands (axial thermal conductivity: 1.26 W/m K); nylon fiber strands (axial thermal conductivity: 1.43 W/m K); polypropylene fiber strands (axial thermal conductivity: 1.24 W/m K); cotton strands (axial thermal conductivity: 2.88 W/m K); wool strands (axial thermal conductivity: 0.48 W/m K); silk strands (axial thermal conductivity: 1.49 W/m K); rayon strands (axial thermal conductivity: 1.41-1.89 W/m K); and aramid strands (axial thermal conductivity: 3.05-4.74 W/m K), as well as combinations thereof.
The sole structure 110 comprises a durable, wear-resistant component configured to provide cushioning as the shoe 100 impacts the ground. In certain embodiments, the sole structure 110 may include a midsole and an outsole. In additional embodiments, the sole structure 110 can further include an insole that is disposed between the midsole and the upper 105 when the shoe 100 is assembled. In other embodiments, the sole structure 110 may be a unitary and/or one-piece structure. As can be seen, e.g., in the exploded view of
The sole structure 110 may be formed of a single material or may be formed of a plurality of materials. In example embodiments in which the sole structure includes a midsole and an outsole, the midsole may be formed of one or more materials including, without limitation, ethylene vinyl acetate (EVA), an EVA blended with one or more of an EVA modifier, a polyolefin block copolymer, and a triblock copolymer, and a polyether block amide. The outsole may be formed of one or more materials including, without limitation, elastomers (e.g., thermoplastic polyurethane), siloxanes, natural rubber, and synthetic rubber.
A method of forming an article of footwear is disclosed with reference to
While the invention has been described in detail and with reference to specific embodiments thereof, it will be apparent to one skilled in the art that various changes and modifications can be made therein without departing from the spirit and scope thereof. For example, while most of the example embodiments depicted in the figures show an article of footwear (shoe) configured for a right foot, it is noted that the same or similar features can also be provided for an article of footwear (shoe) configured for a left foot (where such features of the left footed shoe are reflection or “mirror image” symmetrical in relation to the right footed shoe).
Within the knit structure, various stitches may be used to provide different sections 210, 215, 220, 225, 230, 240, 300 of the upper 105 with different properties. For example, a first area may be formed of a first stitch configuration, and a second area may be formed of a second stitch configuration that is different from the first stitch configuration to impart varying textures, structures, patterning, and/or other characteristics to the upper member.
Stitching may be utilized to connect sections of the upper together. In addition, a thermoplastic film may be utilized to reinforce seams, replace stitching, and/or prevent fraying. For example, seam tape available from Bemis Associates, Inc. (Shirley, Mass.) may be utilized. Instead of an instep cover 240, the upper 105 may include a conventional tongue including a longitudinally extending member free on its lateral and medial sides.
It is to be understood that terms such as “top”, “bottom”, “front”, “rear”, “side”, “height”, “length”, “width”, “upper”, “lower”, “interior”, “exterior”, “inner”, “outer”, and the like as may be used herein, merely describe points of reference and do not limit the present invention to any particular orientation or configuration.
Thus, it is intended that the present invention covers the modifications and variations of this invention provided they come within the scope of the appended claims and their equivalents.
The present application claims priority to Provisional Application No. 62/158,709, filed 8 May 2015 and entitled “Footwear Including a Textile Upper.” The disclosure of the aforementioned application is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.
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