Fragrance compositions

Abstract
A method of promoting activated, pleasant moods through the inhalation of energising, non-stressing fragrances (invigorating fragrances) comprising at least 75% by weight, preferably 85% by weight of perfume materials drawn from the following groups: A) At least 10% by weight in total of at least three materials drawn from Group ‘IMP’ comprising: allyl amyl glycolate; benzyl salicylate; bergamot oil; coriander oil; cyclamen aldehyde; 1-(2,6,10-trimethylcyclododeca-2,5,9-trien-1-yl)ethanone; allyl (cyclohexyloxy)acetate; Damascenia 185 SAE; 2,4-dimethylheptan-1-ol; fir balsam; fir needle oil; 3-(4-ethylphenyl)-2,2-dimethylpropanal; ginger oil; guaiacwood; linalyl acetate; litsea cubeba oil; methyl 2,4-dihydroxy-3,6-dimethylbenzoate; nutmeg oil; olibanum oil; orange flower oil; Ozonal AB 7203C; patchouli oil; rose oxide; rosemary oil; sage clary oil; spearmint oil; Tamarine AB 8212E; tarragon oil;B) Optionally up to 90% of materials from the following groups: Group ‘HMR’ comprising:allyl ionone; benzyl acetate; cis-jasmone; citronellol; ethyl linalol; ethylene brassylate; 4-methyl-2-(2-methylpropyl)tetrahydro-2H-pyran-4-ol; geraniol; geranium oil; isoeugenol; lemon oil; 2,4-dimethylcyclohex-3-ene-1-carbaldehyde; 3-(4-hydroxy-4-methylpentyl)cyclohex-3-ene-1-carbaldehyde; 4-(4-hydroxy-4-methylpentyl)cyclohex-3-ene-1-carbaldehyde; alpha-iso-methyl ionone; 3-methylcyclopentadec-2-en-1-one; cyclopentadecanone; cyclohexadecanolide; gamma-undecalactone.Group ‘HMI’ comprising:1-{[2-(1,1 -dimethylethyl)cyclohexyl]oxy}butan-2-ol; 3a,6,6,9a-tetramethyldodecahydronaphtho[2,1 -{b}]furan; alpha-damascone; dihydromyrcenol; eugenol; 3-(1,3-benzodioxol-5-yl)-2-methylpropanal; 2,4-dimethylcyclohex-3-ene-1-carbaldehyde; mandarin oil; orange oil; 2-(1,1-dimethylethyl)cyclohexyl acetate.Group ‘HMP’ comprising:1-(2,6,6,8-tetramethyltricyclo[5.3.1.0 {1,5}]undec-8-en-9-yl)ethanone; allyl cyclohexyl propionate; allyl heptanoate; Apple Oliffac S pcmf; 7-methyl-2H-1,5-benzodioxepin-3(4H)-one; cassis base; cis-3-hexenyl salicylate; damascenone; gamma-decalactone; ethyl acetoacetate; ethyl maltol; ethyl methyl phenylglycidate; hexyl acetate; (3E)-4-methyldec-3-en-5-ol; 2,5,5-trimethyl-6,6-bis(methyloxy)hex-2-ene; 4-(4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one; styrallyl acetate; 2,2,5-trimethyl-5-pentylcyclopentanone; ylang oil. Group ‘RMP’ comprising: anisic aldehyde; (2Z)-2-ethyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-en-1-yl)but-2-en-1-ol; benzoin siam resinoid; ethyl vanillin; oxacyclohexadec-12(13)-en-2-one; hexyl salicylate; hydroxycitronellal; jasmin oil; 3-methyl-5-phenylpentan-1-ol; 2-(phenyloxy)ethyl 2-methylpropanoate; alpha-terpineol; vanillin;Group ‘GEN’ comprising:cyclopentadecanolide; oxacyclohexadecan-2-one; hexyl cinnamic aldehyde; ionone beta; isobornyl cyclohexanol; 1-(2,3,8,8-tetramethyl-1,2,3,4,5,6,7(8),8(8a)-octahydronaphthalen-2-yl)ethanone; 4-(1,1-dimethylethyl)phenyl]-2-methylpropanal; linalol; methyl dihydrojasmonate; 2-phenylethanol;provided the following conditions are met:(a) IMPs>=HMPs+HMRs(b) IMPs+HMIs+GENs>=70%(c) (IMP+HMI)/(IMP+HMI+RMP+HMR)>=0.7(d) IMPs/(HMPs+RMPs+IMPs)>=0.5(e) IMPs/[(HMPs+RMPs+IMPs)+(100−TOTAL)]>=0.3wherein ‘IMPs’ indicates the sum of the percentages of materials within Group IMP, and similarly for the remaining groups, the symbol ‘>=’ indicates ‘at least equal to’, and ‘TOTAL’ is the sum of HMPs, HMRs, HMIs, IMPs, RMPs and GENs, provided also that low odour or no odour solvents are excluded from the calculation of these sums is provided which have an invigorating effect when inhaled by a subject.
Description
EXAMPLES

The invention will be further described by reference to the following detailed examples, wherein the methodologies are as described below.



FIG. 1 is a graph of smelling score against a variety of mood attributes for fragrance compositions described as being either a base, an accord or a finished fragrance.


Example 1
A Study on Perfume Complexity

A total of 20 different odours were evaluated in a consumer sniff test. The odours were grouped according to their complexity into 3 groups: complex finished fragrances, mixes of fragrance materials known as accords, and simple fragrance mixes or bases. The consumers were asked to smell a subset of the odours and score against the attributes: trendy, calming, nostalgic, relaxing, warm, comforting, stimulating, modem, soothing, sexy, refreshing, cool, energising. The results shown in FIG. 1 indicate that the more complex fragrances outperformed their simpler analogues across each of these attributes.


Example 2

The fragrance compositions detailed in Table 1 were prepared and subjected to a variety of test protocols. Those fragranced labelled 11 through to 14 are fragrance compositions according to the invention, whereas those labelled C1 through C4 are comparatives. Analysis of these compositions according to the group classifications given here is shown below.









TABLE 1







Fragrance compositions









FRAGRANCE COMPOSITIONS


















I1
I2
I3
I4
C1
C2
C3
C4


INGREDIENT
GROUP
w/w %
w/w %
w/w %
w/w %
w/w %
w/w %
w/w %
w/w %



















ALLYL AMYL GLYCOLATE(Q)
IMP
0.0
0.0
0.6
0.0
0.2
0.0
0.0
0.0


ALLYL AMYL GLYCOLATE 10% DPG
IMP
0.0
0.0
0.0
1.1
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


ALLYL CYCLOHEXYLPROPIONATE
HMP
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


ALLYL HEPTANOATE
HMP
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


ALLYL IONONE(G)
HMR
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.1
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


AMBER CORE(TM)(Q)
HMI
0.0
0.0
0.6
0.7
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


AMBERLYN SUPER(TM)(Q)
HMI
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.3
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


AMBERLYN SUPER(TM)(Q) 10% DPG
HMI
2.0
0.0
2.1
0.0
0.0
0.0
1.0
0.0


AMBRETTOLIDE(TM)(G)
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


AMYL SALICYLATE
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
1.0
2.0


ANISIC ALDEHYDE
RMP
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


APPLE OLIFFAC S PCMF(TM)(IFF)
HMP
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.4
0.0


APPLINAL(TM)(Q)
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


ARMOISE TUNISIAN 10% DPG
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


ARMOISE TUNISIAN OIL
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.5
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


BANGALOL(TM)(Q)
RMP
0.0
0.0
0.5
0.6
0.0
3.0
0.5
4.2


BANGALOL LAEVO(TM)(Q)
RMP
0.0
1.0
0.0
0.0
0.5
0.0
0.0
0.0


BASIL COMORES OIL
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


BASIL COMORES OIL 10% DPG
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.3
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


BENZALDEHYDE 10% DPG
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.1
0.0


BENZOIN SIAM RESINOID 50% DPG
RMP
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
4.0
0.0
0.2


BENZYL ACETATE
HMR
0.0
3.0
0.0
0.0
0.5
0.0
4.0
4.5


BENZYL SALICYLATE
IMP
0.0
0.0
7.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


BERGAMOT OIL
IMP
18.0
5.0
15.0
18.0
0.0
3.0
4.0
0.0


BIRCH LEAF
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.4
0.0


CALONE 1951(TM)
HMP
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.1
0.0
0.0
0.0


CALONE 1951(TM) 1% DPG
HMP
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


CAMOMILE MOROCCAN OIL
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.2
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


CAMOMILE ROMAN 10% DPG
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


CARDAMOM OIL
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.1
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


CASSIONE(TM) 10% DPG
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


CASSIS BASE
HMP
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
1.8
0.0
0.3
0.0


CASSIS BASE 10% DPG
HMP
0.0
0.0
2.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


CEDARWOOD VIRGINIAN OIL
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


CEDRENYL ACETATE
N/A
0.0
0.0
1.3
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


CETALOX(TM)(F) 10% DEP
HMI
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


CETALOX(TM)(F)
HMI
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


CINNAMIC ALCOHOL
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
2.4


CINNAMON LEAF OIL
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


CIS 3 HEXENOL
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.1
0.0
0.0
0.0


CIS 3 HEXENOL 10% DPG
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
1.0
0.0
2.0
1.0
0.0


CIS 3 HEXENYL ACETATE 10% DPG
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
1.0
0.0


CIS 3 HEXENYL METHYL CARBONATE
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


CIS 3 HEXENYL METHYL CARBONATE 10% DPG
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.8
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


CIS 3 HEXENYL SALICYLATE
HMP
3.0
5.0
0.0
0.0
2.0
0.0
2.5
0.0


CIS JASMONE
HMR
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.3
0.0
0.1
0.0


CIS JASMONE 10% DPG
HMR
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.6
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


CIS-6-NONEN-1-OL 0.1% DPG
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.5
0.0
0.0
0.0


CITRONELLOL
HMR
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
1.0
0.0
0.0
1


CITRONELLYL ACETATE
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


CLOVE BUD OIL
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
3


CORIANDER OIL
IMP
0.0
0.0
0.6
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


COUMARIN
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.7
0.4
0.0
1.0
0.0
4


CUMIN SEED 10% DPG
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.7
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


CYCLAMEN ALDEHYDE
IMP
0.0
0.0
1.0
0.0
1.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


CYCLISONE(TM)
IMP
0.0
3.0
1.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


CYCLO GALBANATE
IMP
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.2
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


CYCLOPENTADECANOLIDE
GEN
0.0
0.0
0.0
2.0
0.0
0.0
1.5
1


CYCLOGALBANATE 10% DPG
IMP
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.8
0.0
0.0
0.0


DAMASCENIA 185 SAE(F)(TM)
IMP
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.1
0.0


DAMASCENONE 10% DPG
HMP
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.5
0.0
0.0
0.0


DAMASCONE ALPHA 10% DPG
HMI
0.0
0.0
0.3
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.8
0.0


DECALACTONE GAMMA
HMP
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.3
0.0
0.0
0.0


DIHYDROJASMONE(Q)
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


DIHYDROMYRCENOL
HMI
0.0
0.0
6.5
6.0
1.0
3.0
1.0
0.0


DIMETHYL PHENYLETHYL CARBINOL
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


DIMETHYLHEPTANOL
IMP
0.0
0.0
1.8
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL(DPG)
SOLV
0.0
9.8
3.5
4.6
11.4
0.0
3.9
6.6


ETHYL ACETOACETATE
HMP
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.5
0.0
0.0
0.0


ETHYL BUTYRATE 10% DPG
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


ETHYL LINALOL
HMR
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


ETHYL MALTOL
HMP
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


ETHYL MALTOL 1% DPG
HMP
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


ETHYL METHYL PHENYLGLYCIDATE
HMP
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


ETHYL VANILLIN
RMP
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


ETHYL VANILLIN 10% DPG
RMP
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.5
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


ETHYLENE BRASSYLATE
HMR
8.0
0.0
0.0
7.0
0.0
16.0
3.0
7


EUGENOL
HMI
0.0
0.0
0.1
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.2
0.0


EUGENYL ACETATE
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


EXALTENONE(TM)(F)
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


FIR BALSAM OIL
IMP
0.0
0.0
0.4
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


FIR NEEDLE SIBERIA OIL
IMP
0.0
0.0
2.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


FLORALOZONE(IFF)
IMP
0.0
0.0
2.0
0.5
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


FLORALOZONE(IFF) 10% DPG
IMP
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.2
0.0


FLORHYDRAL(G)
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


FLOROSA(TM)(Q)
HMR
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


GALAXOLIDE(TM)(IFF)
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
10.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


GALBANUM ARTESSENCE(BIO) 1% DPG
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.5
0.0


GERANIOL
HMR
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.4
3.0
0.0
0.0
3


GERANIUM AFRICAN OIL
HMR
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.1
0.0


GERANYL ACETATE
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.3
0.3
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


GINGER PURE
IMP
0.0
0.0
0.4
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


GRAPEFRUIT BASE
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.1
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


GUAIACWOOD
IMP
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.4
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


HABANOLIDE(TM)(F)
RMP
0.0
0.0
0.0
2.0
0.0
0.0
2.0
2


HELIONAL(TM)(IFF)
HMI
3.0
2.0
3.0
2.0
3.0
0.0
3.0
0.0


HELIOTROPIN
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
1.0
0.0
3


HEXYL ACETATE
HMP
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


HEXYL CINNAMIC ALDEHYDE
GEN
0.0
3.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
5.0
4


HEXYL SALICYLATE
RMP
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


HYDROXYCITRONELLAL
RMP
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
2.5
0.0
0.0
0.0


INDOLE 1% DPG
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.5
0.0
0.0
0.0


INDOLE 10% DPG
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


IONOL(preservative)
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.2
0.2
0.0
0.2
0.0


IONONE ALPHA
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


IONONE BETA
GEN
0.0
0.0
0.0
2.9
0.0
0.0
0.8
0.0


IONONE BETA 10% DPG
GEN
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.4
0.0
0.0
0.0


IRONE ALPHA(TM)(G) 10% DPG
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


ISOAMBOIS(Q)
GEN
4.0
7.0
5.0
7.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


ISOAMYL ACETATE 10% DPG
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.2
0.0


ISOBUTYL ISOBUTYRATE 1% DPG
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


ISOEUGENOL
HMR
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.1
0.0
0.0
0.0


ISOEUGENOL 10% DPG
HMR
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.5
0.0


JADENOL(TM)(Q)
HMP
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
4.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


JASMIN OIL
RMP
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.2
2


JASMOLACTONE(F)
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.1
0.0
0.0
0.0


JASMOPYRANE(Q)
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


LAVANDIN ABRIALIS OIL
N/A
0.0
0.0
1.5
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


LAVENDER OIL
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.7
0.0
18.0
0.0
1


LEMON ITALIAN OIL
HMR
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
5.0
0.0


LIGUSTRAL(Q)
HMI
0.0
0.1
0.0
0.0
0.2
0.0
0.0
0.0


LIGUSTRAL(Q) 10% DPG
HMI
4.0
0.0
3.0
0.5
0.0
0.0
2.0
0.0


LILY ALDEHYDE
GEN
6.0
5.0
0.0
1.3
20.0
0.0
14.0
4


LIME OIL
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.4
0.0
0.0
0.0


LINALOL
GEN
0.0
3.0
2.6
4.0
5.5
0.0
1.0
6


LINALYL ACETATE
IMP
0.0
0.0
8.5
5.3
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


LITSEA CUBEBA OIL
IMP
1.0
0.4
0.0
0.1
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


LYRAL
HMR
0.0
0.0
1.3
0.0
0.0
5.0
2.0
3


MANDARIN ITALIAN OIL
HMI
4.0
3.0
0.0
1.5
0.0
0.0
0.4
0.0


MANDARIN ITALIAN OIL 10% DPG
HMI
4.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


MANZANATE(Q) 10% DPG
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.1
0.0
0.0
0.0


MEFROSOL(Q)
RMP
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


MELONAL(TM)(G)
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.2
0.0
0.2
0.0


METHYL ANTHRANILATE
N/A
0.0
0.4
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


METHYL BUTANOL 1,2 10% DPG
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.2
0.0
0.0
0.0


METHYL CHAVICOL 10% DPG
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.5
0.0
0.0
0.0


METHYL DIHYDROJASMONATE
GEN
36.0
42.0
0.0
9.0
15.0
10.0
20.0
0.0


METHYL HEPTENONE 10% DPG
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.3
0.0
0.0
0.0


METHYL HEPTINE CARBONATE 10% DPG
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.4
0.0
0.0
0.0


METHYL IONONE ALPHA ISO
HMR
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
4.0
12.0
1.0
2


METHYL OCTINE CARBONATE 20 10% DPG
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.7
0.0


METHYL PAMPLEMOUSSE(G)
HMP
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


MOSS OAKMOSS SYNTHETIC
IMP
0.0
0.0
1.8
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.8


MOSS OAKMOSS SYNTHETIC 10% DPG
IMP
2.0
0.0
0.0
0.5
0.2
3.0
0.0
0.0


MUGUET MAYCIANE OIL
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
6.0
0.0


MUSCENONE(TM)(F)
HMR
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


NEROLI OIL
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


NONALACTONE GAMMA
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


NONALACTONE GAMMA 10% DPG
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.7
0.0


NUTMEG
IMP
0.0
0.0
2.5
1.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


OLIBANUM RESINOID
IMP
2.0
0.2
1.0
0.0
0.0
3.0
0.0
0.0


ORANGE BRAZIL PURE
HMI
0.0
0.0
3.0
10.0
0.0
0.0
1.0
0.0


ORANGE FLORIDA LIGHT OIL
HMI
3.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


UNDECALACTONE GAMMA
HMR
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


UNDECAVERTOL(G)
HMP
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.2
0.0


VANILLIN
RMP
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
3.0
0.0
1.0


VANILLIN 10% DPG
RMP
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


VELOUTONE(F)
HMP
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0


VERTOFIX COEUR(TM)(IFF)
HMP
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
6.0


VETYVERYL ACETATE
N/A
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
1.0


YLANG OIL
HMP
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.0
0.9
0.8


TOTAL %

100
100
100
100
100
100
100
100





Key to suppliers:


B = Biolandes


F = Firmenich


G = Givaudan


IFF = International Flavors and Fragrances


Q = Quest International


Notes:


1) “Ingredient Y X % DPG” indicates X % of ingredient Y in a DPG solution


2) “N/A” indicates a material that is not allocated (i.e. the group is unknown)


3) “SOLV” indicates the material to be a solvent













TABLE 2







Group Analysis of Fragrances of Table









FRAGRANCE COMPOSITIONS















SUM %
I1
I2
I3
I4
C2
C3
C4
C7


















HMRs
8.0
3.0
1.3
7.6
8.9
37.0
15.3
20.5


HMIs
11.0
5.1
15.7
20.6
4.7
3.0
6.0
0.0


GEN
46.0
65.0
9.6
28.7
41.5
10.0
45.6
28.5


IMPs
21.2
9.0
56.6
26.5
1.3
9.3
4.1
8.0


HMPs
3.0
5.0
0.2
0.0
8.8
0.0
4.6
6.8


RMPs
0.0
1.0
0.5
2.7
3.0
14.0
3.9
10.2


TOTAL
89.2
88.1
83.9
85.9
68.2
73.3
79.5
74.0


SOLV
10.8
10.8
11.5
9.1
15.9
6.5
11.8
7.6


ratio 1
0.80
0.78
0.98
0.82
0.34
0.19
0.35
0.21


ratio 2
0.88
0.60
0.99
0.91
0.10
0.40
0.33
0.32


ratio 3
0.61
0.33
0.77
0.61
0.03
0.19
0.12
0.16







Sums corrected for solvent















solvent
1.1
1.1
1.1
1.1
1.2
1.1
1.1
1.1


correction*


HMRs
9.0
3.4
1.5
8.3
10.6
39.6
17.3
22.2


HMIs
12.3
5.7
17.8
22.6
5.6
3.2
6.8
0.0


GEN
51.6
72.9
10.8
31.6
49.4
10.7
51.7
30.8


IMPs
23.8
10.1
63.9
29.1
1.5
9.9
4.7
8.7


HMPs
3.4
5.6
0.2
0.0
10.4
0.0
5.2
7.4


RMPs
0.0
1.1
0.6
2.9
3.6
15.0
4.4
11.0


TOTAL
100.0
98.8
94.8
94.5
81.1
78.4
90.1
80.1


condition 1
Y
Y
Y
Y
no
no
no
no


condition 2
YES
YES
YES
YES
no
no
no
no





Notes:


*Solvent correction obtained as 100/(100 − SOLV)


ratio 1 = (IMPs + HMIs)/(IMPs + HMIs + RMPs + HMRs)


ratio 2 = IMPs/(IMPs + HMPs + RMPs)


ratio 3 = IMPs/[(IMPs + HMPs + RMPs) + (100 − TOTAL)]


condition 1 is IMPs >= HMPs + HMRs


condition 2 is IMPs + HMIs + GENs >= 70%






Example 3

Salivary cortisol provides a convenient route to assess the degree of stress throughout the day. In the below protocol two perfumes were subjected to a cortisol test largely based on that disclosed in WO 2002/049629. The perfume of the invention 13, with an aromatic fougere scent and perceived as invigorating, was found not to promote higher cortisol levels during a working day than did a control procedure excluding perfume. A comparative perfume C4, a spicy oriental type perceived as relaxing, was found to produce a significantly higher level of cortisol depression, as expected.


Protocol:

A group of healthy subjects (3 male and 2 female, known as subjects A to E) participated in trials over several days to assess the relaxation/invigorating effect of smelling two fragrances as indicated by changes in salivary cortisol levels. Assessments took place at least 4 hours after waking each day.

  • 1) Initial saliva sample provided (approx 1 ml)
  • 2) Smelling of fragrance (randomised across days) for 15 minutes i.e. smelling from fragranced sorborod for 20 seconds every 2 minutes.
  • 3) Second saliva sample provided 30 minutes after the end of the smelling.
  • 4) Sample stored in refrigerator until completion of all days experimentation.
  • 5) All samples were analysed using an ELISA kit sourced from Immunodiagnostic Systems Limited (code SLV-2930).


Results:

The effect of no treatment was a small (ca 4.5%) depression in cortisol. Smelling perfume 13 produced a slightly larger depression (ca 8%) but identical within experimental error. The relaxing fragrance yielded a significantly larger cortisol depression (ca. 28%). Fragrance 13 is therefore invigorating without causing noticeable increases in cortisol production.









TABLE 3







Effect of smelling fragrance I3 on salivary cortisol levels











Control
I3
% Change














Start
End
Start
End
Control
I3

















A
6.48
6.53
5.20
4.57
0.751
−12.057


B
4.20
4.50
6.08
5.11
7.089
−15.916


C
3.37
3.12
3.83
3.36
−7.252
−12.311


D
3.97
3.80
4.12
4.43
−4.369
7.472


E
3.44
2.81
3.46
3.21
−18.477
−7.079


Mean
4.29
4.15
4.37
4.03
−4.452
−7.978


StDev
1.27
1.48
1.17
0.90
9.55
9.19
















TABLE 4







Effect of smelling fragrance C4 on salivary cortisol levels











Control
C4
% Change














Start
End
Start
End
Control
C4

















A
6.48
6.53
5.25
3.44
0.751
−34.504


B
4.20
4.50
5.57
3.88
7.089
−30.265


C
3.37
3.12
4.17
3.40
−7.252
−18.532


D
3.97
3.80
3.99
3.11
−4.369
−22.146


E
3.44
2.81
3.58
2.43
−18.477
−32.251


Mean
4.29
4.15
4.33
3.21
−4.452
−27.540


StDev
1.27
1.48
0.86
0.61
9.55
6.86









Example 4

The fragrances of Table 1 were subjected to two protocols designed to yield information on the mood response they engender.


A) Mood Attribute Testing (MAT)

This was a central location sniff test carried out in the UK.


150 naive consumers were either pre-recruited or recruited by intercept in the street to attend a hall test. They were pre-screened for any nasal disorders or allergic sensitivities to smelling fragrance. The panellists were all female and were selected to represent a cross section of ages from 18 to 55 and a cross section of social classes.


Each subject was asked to smell the fragrances in a predetermined order. As each fragrance was smelt they were asked to mark a series of given mood scales according to how the fragrance made them feel (e.g. comforted, safe, soothed). There were 24 mood scales in all and each was scored on a 0-10 scale from “not at all” to “extremely”.


B) Mood Portraits

This was also a central location sniff test carried out in the UK, and as for the Mood Attribute Scaling 150 naive consumers were either pre-recruited or recruited by intercept in the street to attend a hall test. They were pre-screened for any nasal disorders or allergic sensitivities to smelling fragrance. The panellists used were all female and were selected to represent a cross section of ages from 18 to 55 and a cross section of social classes.


Each subject was asked to smell the fragrances in a predetermined order. For this test they were asked to experience the mood or emotion evoked by the fragrance and then select, from a library of displayed pictures, up to 5 that evoke the same or similar mood or emotion. Research carried out previously at Quest had established the mood or emotions evoked by the pictures and had also developed a statistical approach to transforming the picture selection frequency data into mood profiles for each fragrance.


The rank orders from each test are shown below in table 5, with the most invigorating fragrance being ranked as ‘1’. Although there is noise in the data the subset of invigorating fragrances according to the present invention is clearly discriminated from the comparative fragrances.












TABLE 5









Rank Order for




‘Stimulating’









Perfume Code
MAT Method






I1
3
2


I2
4
3


I3
2
1


I4
1
4


C1
5
6


C2
8
8


C3
6
5


C4
7
7








Claims
  • 1. A fragrance composition comprising at least 75% by weight, preferably 85% by weight of perfume materials drawn from the following groups: A) At least 10% by weight in total of at least three materials drawn from Group ‘IMP’ comprising: allyl amyl glycolate; benzyl salicylate; bergamot oil; coriander oil; cyclamen aldehyde; 1-(2,6,10-trimethylcyclododeca-2,5,9-trien-1-yl)ethanone; prop-2-enyl (cyclohexyloxy)acetate; Damascenia 185 SAE; 2,4-dimethylheptan-1-ol; fir balsam; fir needle oil; 3-(4-ethylphenyl)-2,2-dimethylpropanal; ginger oil; guaiacwood; linalyl acetate; litsea cubeba oil; methyl 2,4-dihydroxy-3,6-dimethylbenzoate; nutmeg oil; olibanum oil; orange flower oil; Ozonal AB 7203C; patchouli oil; rose oxide; rosemary oil; sage clary oil; spearmint oil; Tamarine AB 8212E; tarragon oil;B) Optionally up to 90% of materials from the following groups:Group ‘HMR’ comprising:allyl ionone; benzyl acetate; cis-jasmone; citronellol; ethyl linalol; ethylene brassylate; 4-methyl-2-(2-methylpropyl)tetrahydro-2H-pyran-4-ol; geraniol; geranium oil; isoeugenol; lemon oil; 3-(4-hydroxy-4-methylpentyl)cyclohex-3-ene-1-carbaldehyde; 4-(4-hydroxy-4-methylpentyl)cyclohex-3-ene-1-carbaldehyde; alpha-iso-methyl ionone; 3-methylcyclopentadec-2-en-1-one; cyclopentadecanone; cyclohexadecanolide; gamma-undecalactone.Group ‘HMI’ comprising:1-{[2-(1,1-dimethylethyl)cyclohexyl]oxy}butan-2-ol; 3a,6,6,9a-tetramethyldodecahydronaphtho[2,1-{b}]furan; alpha-damascone; dihydromyrcenol; eugenol; 3-(1,3-benzodioxol-5-yl)-2-methylpropanal; 2,4-dimethylcyclohex-3-ene-1-carbaldehyde; mandarin oil; orange oil; 2-(1,1-dimethylethyl)cyclohexyl acetate.Group ‘HMP’ comprising:1-(2,6,6,8-tetramethyltricyclo [5.3.1.0{1,5}]undec-8-en-9-yl)ethanone; allyl cyclohexylpropionate; allyl heptanoate; Apple Oliffac S pcmf; 7-methyl-2H-1,5-benzodioxepin-3(4H)-one; cassis base; cis-3-hexenyl salicylate; damascenone; gamma-decalactone; ethyl acetoacetate; ethyl maltol; ethyl methyl phenylglycidate; hexyl acetate; (3E)-4-methyldec-3-en-5-ol; 2,5,5-trimethyl-6,6-bis(methyloxy)hex-2-ene; 4-(4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one; styrallyl acetate; 2,2,5-trimethyl-5-pentylcyclopentanone; ylang oil.Group ‘RMP’ comprising:anisic aldehyde; (2Z)-2-ethyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-en-1-yl)but-2-en-1-ol; benzoin siam resinoid; ethyl vanillin; oxacyclohexadec-12(13)-en-2-one; hexyl salicylate; hydroxycitronellal; jasmin oil; 3-methyl-5-phenylpentan-1-ol; 2-(phenyloxy)ethyl 2-methylpropanoate; alpha-terpineol; vanillin;Group ‘GEN’ comprising:cyclopentadecanolide; hexyl cinnamic aldehyde; ionone beta; isobornyl cyclohexanol; 1-(2,3,8,8-tetramethyl-1,2,3,4,5,6,7(8),8(8a)-octahydronaphthalen-2-yl)ethanone; 3-[4-(1,1-dimethylethyl)phenyl]-2-methylpropanal; linalol;methyl dihydrojasmonate; 2-phenylethanol;provided the following conditions are met:(a) IMPs>=HMPs+HMRs(b) IMPs+HMIs+GENs >=70%(c) (IMP+HMI)/(IMP+HMI+RMP+HMR)>=0.7(d) IMPs/(HMPs+RMPs+IMPs)>=0.5(e) IMPs/[(HMPs+RMPs+IMPs)+(100−TOTAL)]>=0.3wherein ‘IMPs’ indicates the sum of the percentages of materials within Group IMP, and similarly for the remaining groups, the symbol ‘>=’ indicates ‘0at least equal to’, and ‘TOTAL’ is the sum of HMPs, HMRs, HMIs, IMPs, RMPs and GENs, provided also that low odour or no odour solvents are excluded from the calculation of these sums.
  • 2. A fragrance composition according to claim 1, which comprises at least 15% by weight.
  • 3. A fragrance composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, which comprises at least 80% by weight of material from the total of Groups IMP, HMI and GEN.
  • 4. A fragrance composition according to claim 1, wherein the ratio of IMPs/(HMPs+RMPs+IMPs) is at least 0.6.
  • 5. A fragrance composition according to claim 1, which comprises at least five materials drawn from Group IMP.
  • 6. A fragrance composition according to claim 5, which comprises at least eight materials drawn from Group IMP.
  • 7. A fragrance composition according to claim 1, which comprises at least 15 perfumery ingredients.
  • 8. A fragrance composition according to claim 7, which comprises at least 25 perfumery ingredients.
  • 9. A fragrance composition according to claim 8, which comprises at least 40 perfumery ingredients.
  • 10. A fragrance composition according to claim 1, which comprises at least 90% by weight of materials selected from the Groups IMP, HMI and GEN.
  • 11. A consumer composition comprising a fragrance composition according to claim 1.
  • 12. A method of providing activated, pleasant moods through the inhalation of an effective amount of a fragrance composition according to claim 1.
  • 13. A process of dispensing a fragrance composition according to claim 1 in an amount and for a time to provide effective vaporous emission for inhalation by a subject.
  • 14. A fragrance composition according to claim 2 which comprises at least 25% by weight of material from Group IMP.
  • 15. A fragrance composition according to claim 4, wherein said ratio is at least 0.8.
Priority Claims (1)
Number Date Country Kind
0621023.1 Oct 2006 GB national