Patent Application
20050112975
(1) Field of the Invention
The present invention relates generally to textile fabrics and, more particularly, to a double-faced warp knit fabric for performance applications.
(2) Description of the Prior Art
Prior art double-faced warp knit fabrics are commonly found to be pile fabrics, i.e., to realize a difference on the face and back sides, a warp-knitted pile fabric manufacturing machine employs an auxiliary mechanical device, such as a plush needle bar. However, this pile fabric is limited in terms of the quality that differs from face to back: it is only capable of producing a plush face side and a back side, i.e., only a single quality difference is possible to realize from this fabric-forming method. Examples of pile fabric found within the relevant art include the following:
Other examples of double-faced warp knit fabrics commonly employ multilayer fabrics, i.e., are not single layer fabrics, and, in particular relate to velvet fabrics or velour fabrics having at least two layers, and spacer fabrics, which “sandwich” an additional layer of spacer yarns between the two sides or faces of the fabric. In these cases, while the fabrics may be constructed to include different qualities on the face and back, the fabrics have a thickness dimension that limits the applications of the fabric, and/or limits the characteristics of the fabric, e.g., by increasing the weight of the fabric, and often the stiffness due the increase in fabric thickness. From the standpoint of the present invention, these properties associated with multilayer fabrics are not desirable.
Examples of multilayer double-faced warp knit fabrics include the following:
Thus, there remains a need for a single layer double-faced warp knit fabric having different qualities on the face and back sides, and wherein the fabric is not a pile fabric.
The present invention provides embodiments of single layer double-faced warp knit fabrics having different qualities on the face and back sides that are aesthetically enhanced fabrics with advantageous performance properties. The present invention also provides methods for producing such fabrics.
In an aspect the present invention comprises an integrally formed stretch warp knit fabric structure formed using at least three guide bars, a fully or partly threaded first front guide bar, a second fully or partly threaded middle guide bar and third fully or partly threaded back guide bar that are knitted to form one single layer fabric having a definitive two-sided, and even more desirably, two distinctive and different colors on each side as a result.
More specifically an embodiment of the present invention provides a definitive two-sided single layer warp knit fabric structure with a first technical face side comprised of a fully dyeable synthetic either continuous multifilament or a spun staple length yarn such as nylon or polyester, preferably nylon, and a second technical back side comprised of a textured micro-denier multifilament synthetic yarn such as nylon or polyester, preferably polyester, and a base structure comprised of spandex elastomeric yarn.
Any of the conventional yarn types known in the art may be utilized to produce a warp knit fabric of the present invention, including, but not limited to natural and synthetic yarns produced from spandex, nylon, polyester, viscose, cotton and/or blends thereof. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention the technical back-side of the single layer warp knit fabric is comprised of a substantially resilient and thermo-settable continuous filament synthetic yarn. The synthetic yarn may comprise a textured multifilament yarn, a flat non-textured multifilament yarn, or a spun staple yarn wherein the synthetic yarn comprises polyester or nylon. In the case of a flat non-textured multifilament yarn, a higher reflectance surface can be produced thereby imparting a metallic look effect, particularly when the yarn is either solution dyed, yarn dyed, or fabric piece dyed in the into silver or gold metallic looking colors. A similar look may be accomplished when using a preferred textured multi-filament micro-denier polyester yarn which optimizes moisture wicking action when against and in direct contact with the skin of the garment wearer, A particularly desirable combination is achieved when any fashionable color such as Navy or Red, for example, is dyed only on the yarn visible in the technical face side of the fabric while a contrasting and different color such as silver is dyed on the yarn visible on the technical back side of the fabric, resulting in a silver backed fabric having any color on the reverse face of the product.
In all of the described embodiments of the present invention it is emphasized that the synthetic continuous filament yarn spandex and the synthetic continuous multi-filament or spun staple yarn components of nylon, and polyester used in the first and second discrete technical face and technical back fabric sides are chosen and required in the present invention for their unique hydrophilic or hydrophobic moisture transfer properties as employed in the fabric while still maintaining all functions of fabric stretch, thickness, and comfort breath ability.
A feature of the present invention is that an embodiment of the present invention provides an economic double faced or distinctly two-sided warp knit fabric that has first and second knit parallel yarn layers integrally knitted and joined together by a series of knit courses forming a resultant single thickness fabric which discretely secures the first and second distinct and different yarn layers together in a tightly spaced relationship parallel to each other.
Another feature of the present invention is that an embodiment of the present invention provides a warp knitted single-layer performance fabric that has an optimized moisture wick ability function achieved through effectively combining the distinct hydrophilic properties of an outer technical face yarn area that is intimately connected by construction at a regular and uniform frequency in the knitting sequence to an inner technical back micro-denier hydrophobic yarn area possessing high moisture wicking properties. The yarn selected for the outer technical face surface area is to provide a greater hydrophilic property than the yarn selected for the inner technical back surface area, thereby utilizing a mechanism referred to as a push-pull function for moving the perspiration off the surface of the skin of the garment wearer and efficiently being pulled to the outer surface away from the body and available for evaporation from the outer fabric surface area. This outer surface yarn will also be the visible ingredient in the fabric therefore will be dyed into fashion colors as desired for the appropriate end use such as active sportswear, swimwear, performance wear, athletic wear, intimate apparel, medical, and fitness wear garment applications. The fabric inner surface technical back, which contacts the skin of the wearer, will thus be hidden from view.
A further feature of the present invention is that an embodiment of the present invention provides a high performance moisture management fabric that is yet further enhanced through chemical means during the dyeing and finishing process by the additional application of finishes such as wickable finish, anti-microbial finish, anti-static finish, softeners, or water repellency finishes applied on the fabric during wet processing, maximizing desirable hydrophobic/hydrophilic fabric properties.
Yet another feature of the present invention is that an embodiment of the present invention provides a multi-directional stretch performance fabric utilizing synthetic polymer spandex elastomeric yarn such as Lycra produced by the DuPont Company of Wilmington, Del. The inclusion of spandex yarn into the fabric structure is integral to the successful execution of separation of the two distinct yarn systems into technical face and technical back.
A further feature of the present invention is that an embodiment of the present invention provides for a sueded or brushed technical back fabric surface for maximizing wearer comfort and increasing the thermal retention properties of the fabric and garment.
Embodiments of the fabric of the present invention may be advantageously utilized in articles of manufacture. Accordingly, further aspects of the present invention are articles of manufacture comprising a fabric of the present invention, such as a T-shirt, sleeveless tank top, etc.
Embodiments of the present invention provide methods of making engineered high performance warp knitted double faced fabrics that may have a full dull luster face, a bright or high luster face, a Printed face, Embossed face, or Specialty Yarn faced fabric consisting of a first distinct and opaque outer technical face fabric surface, a second distinct inner technical back fabric surface that may be either fully dull or highly bright in luster, and that will facilitate the manufacturing of finished fashion swimwear, performance competition swimwear, active performance or fitness wear, athletic wear, intimate apparel, and medical garments in a minimal number of manufacturing steps.
These and other aspects of the present invention will become apparent to those skilled in the art after a reading of the following description of the preferred embodiment when considered with the drawings.
In the following description, like reference characters designate like or corresponding parts throughout the several views. Also in the following description, it is to be understood that such terms as “forward,” “rearward,” “front,” “back,” “right,” “left,” “upwardly,” “downwardly,” and the like are words of convenience and are not to be construed as limiting terms.
Referring now to the drawings in general, the illustrations are for the purpose of describing preferred embodiments of the invention and are not intended to limit the invention thereto. As seen in
These three knitting patterns are provided as examples of embodiments of the present invention, with the 3-bar arrangement being preferred in many applications; however, one of ordinary skill in the relevant art will appreciate that the particular knitting pattern used will depend upon the intended application for the fabric and/or the garment or other end use of the fabric. As such, equivalents to the aforementioned knitting patterns are intended to be included within the scope of the present invention.
The preferred embodiments of the present invention include a two-sided single layer stretch warp knit fabric having a first (face) side and a second (technical back) side identified as such for the purposes of the following description; it will be appreciated that the fabric could be reversible, in which case the first and second side labeling may be used to more generally identify and distinguish the fabric's opposite sides, faces, or surfaces, depending on the application, design, and function of the fabric. The first and second sides are integrally formed using at least two guide bars for the knitting pattern and method for forming the fabric. In a preferred embodiment, three guide bars are used as illustrated by the examples of
The method of making such a preferred embodiment once again being set forth in
The first and second sides of the fabric according to the present invention advantageously provides for each side having at least one different quality from the other side, wherein said quality is either quantitatively and/or quantitatively distinguishable between the first and second sides. By way of example and not limitation, said at least one different quality preferably includes color, shade, fiber type, fiber type, pattern, texture, chemical finish, mechanical finish or additional processing, luster or brightness, opacity, reflectivity, and/or wherein the side differences affect fabric performance such as the functional features of wicking, breathability or permeability, water-resistance, stain resistance, comfort, heat transfer, insulation or cooling, flame retardant, and combinations thereof.
In the case of color differences, the first and second sides may have different colors or different shades of the same color, which may be achieved by solution dyeing, yarn dyeing, fabric piece dyeing, and the like. Additionally or alternatively, the first and second sides may have differences such as one of the sides having a metallic color, look or finish, realized by fiber type, finish, coating, and combinations thereof.
Regarding fiber type, preferably the present invention includes synthetic and/or natural fibers and yarns made of synthetic materials, such as nylon, polyester, cotton, etc. The first and second sides may have different fiber types in terms of the material or substance itself, or in terms of the form of the material, such as multifilament, textured multifilament, spun staple, and the like, and combinations thereof.
The inelastic yarns useful in the fabrics of this invention have elongations at break of less than 100% and may be any conventional textile yarns, either continuous-filament (textured or nontextured) or staple yarns or combinations of the two types, including both synthetic fiber and natural fibers, such as nylon, polyester, wool, and cotton. The elastic yarn is preferably segmented polyurethane commonly known as spandex. Additionally or alternatively, a stretch yarn component is preferably used to further enhance the stretch characteristics of the knit structure, such as spandex, poly butylene terephthalate (PBT), i.e., textured polyester that compacts and/or coils when finished, commercially known as ESP (extra stretch polyester), and the like. Furthermore, the fiber size may be different on the first and second sides of the fabric. Fiber sizes may vary from the smallest microdenier to more standard fiber sizes/weights used in apparel and accessories, by way of example including a range of deniers from between about 20 denier to about 150 denier, depending upon the bar on which it is used. Typically, in preferred embodiments of the present invention, as shown in the figures, the first or front bar yarn is between about 20 to about 150 denier, more preferably between about 40 to about 60 denier; the second or middle bar, which provides for the stitch evasion, yarn is between about 40 to about 150 denier, more preferably between about 60 to about 80 denier; and the third or back bar yarn is between about 20 to about 150 denier, more preferably between about 40 to about 60 denier; one of ordinary skill in the art will appreciate that the yarn or fiber sizes selected will vary and depend upon the particular fabric being construction and its intended application, as well as its functional qualities.
Another difference between the first and second sides of the fabric according to the present invention includes the pattern on each side. Pattern differences include printed, embossed, embroidery, specialty yarn, and knitting differences on either side; any variation in pattern from one side to the other that is distinguishable is considered to fall within the scope of the present invention, i.e., the difference need not be highly pronounced, but noticeable by a qualitative and/or quantitative measure.
The texture may also vary between the first and second sides. The two-sided single layer stretch warp knit fabric is preferably formed using a stitch evasion technique that provides for at least 90% quality unique to each side, more preferably at least 95%. The textural differences may be provided by finish-enhanced means, including but not limited to brushed, chemically treated, sueded, sanded, and the like, and combinations thereof, as well as being optionally provided in part due to the yarn differences, as set forth hereinabove.
Another difference between the first and second sides of the fabric according to the present invention is luster and/or brightness, which includes the extremes of bright to dull and anything in-between on the continuum. Opacity may be a further distinguishing quality from the first to second sides of the two-sided single layer stretch warp knit fabric according to the present invention.
Another distinction between sides occurs where the side differences affect fabric performance, i.e., the differences between the sides produce a functional quality in the fabric overall, such as wicking (due to differences in fiber type and size from first to second side and/or to chemical treatment on one or both sides), breathability or permeability, water-resistance, stain resistance, comfort, heat transfer, insulation or cooling, flame retardant, and reflective functions and combinations thereof.
While spandex is not regarded as a flame-resistant material, a stretch-type yarn such as an all polyester yarn that is scoured clean with no finishes, would pass the test for flame-resistance used for testing sleepwear for children. For example, a non-spandex stretch type yarn is PBT.
A range of fabric weights would be suitable for embodiments according to the present invention, preferably, between about four to about twelve oz/yd2, and more preferably, between about six to about seven oz/yd2.
The present invention provides embodiments of aesthetically enhanced fabrics with advantageous performance properties as well as garments and accessories or other articles made using two-sided single layer stretch warp knit fabric according to the present invention, such as garment or accessories. Examples of garment applications according to the present invention include active sportswear, swimwear, performance wear, athletic wear, intimate apparel, medical, fitness wear, industrial/protective wear, sleep wear, military, security or police or other law enforcement protective wear, and the like. Examples of accessory applications of the fabric according to the present invention include wearable accessories, such as gloves, hat, scarf, socks, hat or helmet lining, etc. and other accessories, such as bags, backpacks, suitcases, purses, and the like.
The present invention provides embodiments of single layer double-faced warp knit fabrics having different qualities on the face and back sides that are aesthetically enhanced fabrics with advantageous performance properties, as well as garments and accessories or other articles made using these fabrics.
In one embodiment the present invention includes an integrally formed stretch warp knit fabric structure formed using at least three guide bars, a fully or partly threaded first front guide bar, a second fully or partly threaded middle guide bar and third fully or partly threaded back guide bar that are knitted to form one single layer fabric having a definitive two-sidedness, and even more desirably, two distinctive and different colors on each side as a result.
More specifically, one embodiment of the present invention provides a definitive two-sided single layer warp knit fabric structure with a first technical face side comprised of a fully dyeable synthetic either continuous multifilament or a spun staple length yarn such as nylon or polyester, preferably nylon, and a second technical back side comprised of a textured micro-denier multifilament synthetic yarn such as nylon or polyester, preferably polyester, and a base structure comprised of spandex elastomeric yarn.
Any of the conventional yarn types known in the art may be utilized to produce a warp knit fabric of the present invention, including, but not limited to natural and synthetic yarns produced from spandex, nylon, polyester, viscose, cotton and/or blends thereof. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention the technical back-side of the single layer warp knit fabric is comprised of a substantially resilient and thermo-settable continuous filament synthetic yarn. The synthetic yarn may comprise a textured multifilament yarn, a flat non-textured multifilament yarn, or a spun staple yarn wherein the synthetic yarn comprises polyester or nylon. In the case of a flat non-textured multifilament yarn, a higher reflectance surface can be produced thereby imparting a metallic look effect, particularly when the yarn is either solution dyed, yarn dyed, or fabric piece dyed in the into silver or gold metallic looking colors. A similar look may be accomplished when using a preferred textured multi-filament micro-denier polyester yarn which optimizes moisture wicking action when against and in direct contact with the skin of the garment wearer, A particularly desirable combination is achieved when any fashionable color such as navy or red, for example, is dyed only on the yarn visible in the technical face side of the fabric while a contrasting and different color such as silver is dyed on the yarn visible on the technical back side of the fabric, resulting in a silver backed fabric having any color on the reverse face of the product.
In all of the described embodiments of the present invention it is emphasized that the synthetic continuous filament yarn spandex and the synthetic continuous multi-filament or spun staple yarn components of nylon, and polyester used in the first and second discrete technical face and technical back fabric sides are chosen and required in the present invention for their unique hydrophilic or hydrophobic moisture transfer properties as employed in the fabric while still maintaining all functions of fabric stretch, thickness, and comfort breath ability.
Another embodiment of the present invention provides an economic double-faced or distinctly two-sided warp knit fabric that has first and second knit parallel yarn layers integrally knitted and joined together by a series of knit courses forming a resultant single thickness fabric which discretely secures the first and second distinct and different yarn layers together in a tightly spaced relationship parallel to each other.
Another embodiment of the present invention includes a warp knitted single-layer performance fabric that has an optimized moisture wick ability function achieved through effectively combining the distinct hydrophilic properties of an outer technical face yarn area that is intimately connected by construction at a regular and uniform frequency in the knitting sequence to an inner technical back micro-denier hydrophobic yarn area possessing high moisture wicking properties. The yarn selected for the outer technical face surface area is to provide a greater hydrophilic property than the yarn selected for the inner technical back surface area, thereby utilizing a mechanism referred to as a push-pull function for moving the perspiration off the surface of the skin of the garment wearer and efficiently being pulled to the outer surface away from the body and available for evaporation from the outer fabric surface area. This outer surface yarn will also be the visible ingredient in the fabric therefore will be dyed into fashion colors as desired for the appropriate end use such as active sportswear, swimwear, performance wear, athletic wear, intimate apparel, medical, and fitness wear garment applications. The fabric inner surface technical back, which contacts the skin of the wearer, will thus be hidden from view.
A embodiment of the present invention includes a high performance moisture management fabric that is yet further enhanced through chemical means during the dyeing and finishing process by the additional application of finishes such as wickable finish, anti-microbial finish, anti-static finish, softeners, or water repellency finishes applied on the fabric during wet processing, maximizing desirable hydrophobic/hydrophilic fabric properties.
Yet another embodiment of the present invention provides a multi-directional stretch performance fabric. More particularly, in one embodiment, the multi-directional stretch performance fabric utilizes a synthetic polymer spandex elastomeric yarn such as Lycra produced by the DuPont Company of Wilmington, Del. The inclusion of spandex yarn into the fabric structure is integral to the successful execution of separation of the two distinct yarn systems into technical face and technical back. Alternatively, a non-spandex stretch yarn, such as a stretch polyester or extra-stretch polyester, or similar yarn having stretch properties may be used, depending upon the application for the fabric, including but not limited to additional processing steps and/or use of the fabric, including cleaning and care or fabric maintenance, either alone or in its use as an article, such as a garment or accessory.
Another embodiment of the present invention provides for a sueded or brushed technical back fabric surface for maximizing wearer comfort and increasing the thermal retention properties of the fabric and garment.
Embodiments of the fabric of the present invention may be advantageously utilized in articles of manufacture. Accordingly, the present invention includes articles of manufacture comprising a fabric of the present invention as set forth hereinabove, by way of example and not limitation, a T-shirt, tank top, jacket, pullover, vest, and the like, including the fabrics described in the foregoing.
Methods of making engineered high performance warp knitted double faced fabrics as set forth hereinabove include methods for making fabrics that may have a full dull luster face, a bright or high luster face, a printed face, embossed face, or specialty yarn-faced fabric having a first distinct and opaque outer technical face fabric surface, a second distinct inner technical back fabric surface that may be either fully dull or highly bright in luster, and that will facilitate the manufacturing of finished fashion swimwear, performance competition swimwear, active performance or fitness wear, athletic wear, intimate apparel, and medical garments in a minimal number of manufacturing steps.
A method for forming a multi-directional stretch performance fabric comprising the steps of: providing a warp knitting machine having at least two guide bars with yarn components; providing a knitting pattern for making a single layer warp knit fabric using a stitch evasion technique; forming a two-sided single layer stretch warp knit fabric according to the pattern on the machine, the fabric further comprising a first side and a second side that are integrally formed using the at least two guide bars, such that the first and second sides of the fabric have at least one different quality from the other side, thereby providing a multi-directional stretch performance fabric for use alone or as an article including the fabric.
The preferred method of knitting used to accomplish the present invention is that of “stitch evasion”, a technique seldom practiced but generally known to one skilled in the art of warp knitting. Now in referring to preferred construction
Further steps of processing the fabric to create at least one different quality between the first and second sides of the fabric, such as, by way of example and not limitation: napping, brushing, sueding, chemical treating, finishing, printing, embossing, and combinations thereof.
Certain modifications and improvements will occur to those skilled in the art upon a reading of the foregoing description. All modifications and improvements have been deleted herein for the sake of conciseness and readability but are properly within the scope of the following claims.
The design examples set forth in the
