Patent Application
20230312791
The invention relates to functionalized polymers, a process for producing functionalized polymers and the use of functionalized polymers, especially in the field of personal care.
US2016250137 discloses personal care compositions comprising an oil in water emulsion, at least one C12-C22 side chain crystalline polymer wherein the side chain crystalline polymer has a crystalline melting point from 35 to 70° C.; and, at least one active compound that interacts with skin wherein the active compound is incorporated into a crystalline matrix of the side chain crystalline polymer and wherein the active ingredient is released from the crystalline matrix at body temperatures, wherein the personal care composition is devoid of sunscreen actives.
It is an object of the invention to provide functionalized polymers with supreme properties in personal care applications.
It was found that, surprisingly, that the polymers according to claim 1 bear supreme properties in personal care applications.
The present invention therefore provides special polymers, that are characterized in, that the polymer has a polydispersity index PDI of >4.5.
The invention further provides a process for producing polymers as well as personal care formulations containing certain polymers.
An advantage of the current invention is, that the polymers lead to a higher richness of formulations.
A further advantage of the current invention is, that the polymers offer an outstanding compatibility with organic UV-filters.
Another advantage of the current invention is, that the polymers lead to an improved sensory and dry skin feel.
A further advantage of the current invention is, that the polymers create a protective film against malodor.
The polymers of the present invention, the process of the present invention, the preparations obtainable with these and their use will now be described by way of example without any intention to restrict the invention to these exemplary embodiments. Where ranges, general formulae or classes of compounds are recited herein below, these shall encompass not just the corresponding ranges or groups of compounds explicitly mentioned, but also all sub-ranges and sub-groups of compounds obtainable by removing individual values (ranges) or compounds. When documents are cited in the context of the present description, their contents shall fully form part of the disclosure content of the present invention.
“natural numbers” as used in the present invention do not encompass 0 (zero).
Unless stated otherwise, all percentages (%) given are percentages by weight.
Unless stated otherwise, all ppm given are ppm by weight.
Viscosity values recited in the context of this invention are to be understood as meaning, unless otherwise stated, dynamic viscosities which can be determined using methods familiar to a person skilled in the art. Measurements recited herein below were determined at a pressure of 101325 Pa and a temperature of 23° C., unless otherwise stated.
Claimed is a polymer comprising monomeric units of general formula (I)
with
R1=independently from each other selected from the group consisting of alkyl radicals and alkenyl radicals, which both may be branched or straight chained, unsubstituted or substituted, preferred are alkyl radicals having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 26, more preferred 12 to 24,
R2=independently from each other selected from the group consisting of H and methyl, preferably H,
with the monomeric units of general formula (I) making up for at least 90 wt.-%, preferably 95 wt.-%, of the total weight of the polymer,
characterized in, that the polymer has a polydispersity index PDI of 4.5 to 20, preferably 4.6 to 15, more preferably 4.8 to 13.
The polymers according to the invention are homopolymers and/or copolymers, including random copolymers, graft copolymers and block copolymers, preferably homopolymers.
Preferably the polymer according to the present invention consists of monomeric units of general formula (I)
The at least 90 wt.-% of all R1 can be mixtures, of course, and it is preferred, that the at least 90 wt.-% of all R1 contain a mixture of 0 wt.-%-5 wt.-% cetyl, 40 wt.-%-55 wt.-% stearyl, 1 wt.-%-15 wt.-% arachidyl, 35 wt.-%-45 wt.-% behenyl and 0 wt.-% to 5 wt.-% lignoceryl, the wt.-% referring to the sum of all R1 present in the polymer.
It is alternatively preferred, that the at least 90 wt.-% of all R1 contain a mixture of 0 wt.-%-3 wt.-% myristyl, 40 wt.-%-50 wt.-% cetyl, 40 wt.-%-50 wt.-% stearyl and 0 wt.-%-1 wt.-% arachidyl, the wt.-% referring to the sum of all R1 present in the polymer.
The at least 90 wt.-% of all R1 preferably are selected from the group of linear alkyl and alkenyl, preferably alkyl, radicals with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, with stearyl and behenyl especially preferred.
Preferably, the polymer according to instant invention is characterized in, that the polymer has a melting point in the range of 31° C. to 75° C., preferably 35° C. to 72° C., more preferably 40° C. to 69° C.
Preferably, the polymer according to instant invention is characterized in, that the polymer has a number average molecular weight Mn in the range of from 3,000 to 300,000, preferably 4,000 to 200,000, more preferably 5,000 to 100,000, g/mol.
Preferably, the polymer according to instant invention is characterized in, that the polymer has a weight average molecular weight Mw in the range of from 13,500 to 6,000,000, preferably 18,000 to 3,000,000, more preferably 24,000 to 1,300,000, g/mol.
Preferably, the polymer according to instant invention is characterized in, that
R1=independently from each other selected from the group consisting of stearyl and/or behenyl,
R2=H.
The polymers of the present invention are obtainable in various ways. The polymers of the present invention are preferably obtained by the herein below described process of the present invention. Therefore, a process for preparing a polymer, preferably a polymer of the instant invention, is claimed comprising the steps of
A) providing 1 part by weight of monomers of general formula (II)
R1A=independently from each other selected from the group consisting of alkyl radicals and alkenyl radicals, which both may be branched or straight chained, unsubstituted or substituted, preferred hydrocarbons are alkyl radicals having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 26, more preferred 12 to 24,
R2A=independently from each other selected from the group consisting of H and methyl, preferably H,
B) addition of at least one initiator to polymerize the monomers and performing a radical polymerisation,
C) addition of 1 to 15, preferably 2 to 10, more preferably 3 to 8, further parts by weight of monomers of general formula (II),
D) addition of at least one initiator to polymerize the monomers and performing a radical polymerisation, optionally
E) removal of excess of monomers, and, optionally,
F) purification of the obtained polymer.
R1A preferably is independently from each other selected from the group consisting of unsubstituted alkyl radicals and alkenyl radicals, more preferably alkyl radicals having 6 to 30, preferably 10 to 26, more preferred 12 to 24, carbon atoms.
R1A more preferably is independently from each other selected from the group consisting of linear alkyl and alkenyl, preferably alkyl, radicals with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, with stearyl and behenyl especially preferred.
The process according to the instant invention is preferably a process for preparing a polymer that has a polydispersity index PDI of greater than 4.5.
The initiator added in process step B) and D) according to the instant invention is an initiator, which can be solid, liquid or dissolved in solvent.
The same or a different initiator can be added in process step B) and D) according to the instant invention.
Mixtures of initiators can be added in process step B) and/or D) according to the instant invention without limiting the scope of the invention.
The initiator added in process step B) and D) according to the instant invention is preferably selected from the group of 2,2′-azo-bis(2-methyl propionitrile), 2,2′-azodi(2-methylbutyronitrile), 1,1′-azodi(hexahydrobenzonitrile), 4,4′-azo-bis(4-cyanovaleric acid), 2,2′-azo-bis(2,4-dimethyl valeronitrile), and 2,2′-azo-bis(2-cyclopropyl propionitrile), 2,2′-azo-bis(2-cyclobutyl propionitrile), 2,2′-azo-bis(2-cyclobutyl propionitrile), 2,2′-azo-bis (2,4-dimethyl valeronitrile), 1,1′-azo-bis(1-cycloheptanenitrile), 2,2′-azo-bis(methylheptylonitrile), 2,2′-azo-bis(2-cyclohexyl propionitrile), azo-bis-isobutyramidine 2HCl, phenyl-azo-triphenylmethane, 4-hydroxyphenyl-azo-triphenylmethane, peroxide and peroxy compounds, such as benzoyl peroxide, tert-butyl peroxy pivalate, tert-amyl peroxypivalate, acetyl peroxide, propionyl peroxide, 2-isopropionyl peroxide, butyryl peroxide, diisobutyryl peroxide, dilauroyl peroxide, didecanoyl peroxide, cumyl peroxyneodecanoate, 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl peroxyneodecanoate, tert-butyl peroxydiethylacetate, tert-amyl peroxy-2-ethylhexanoate, tert-amyl peroxy-2-ethylhexanoate, 2-methoxybenzoyl peroxide, cumyl peroxyneoheptanoate, tert-amyl peroxyneodecanoate, tert-butyl peroxyneodecanoate, tert-butyl peroxyneoheptanoate, tert-amyl peroxyacetate, 4-benzylidenebutyryl peroxide, methyl phthaloyl peroxide, 1,1-di(tert-amylperoxy)cyclohexane, 3,6,9-triethyl-3,6,9-trimethyl-1,4,7-triperoxonane, hydroperoxides such as Isopropylcumyl hydroperoxide, 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl hydroperoxide, cumyl hydroperoxide, tert-Butyl hydroperoxide, tert-amyl hydroperoxide, carbonates such as diethyl peroxydicarbonate, tert-butylperoxy isopropyl carbonate, tert-butylperoxy 2-ethylhexyl carbonate, di-sec-butyl peroxydicarbonate, diisopropyl peroxydicarbonate, di(4-tert-butylcyclohexyl) peroxydicarbonate, di(2-ethylhexyl) peroxydicarbonate, dicetyl peroxydicarbonate, dimyristyl peroxydicarbonate, tert-amylperoxy 2-ethylhexyl carbonate, tert-butylperoxy isopropyl carbonate, tert-butylperoxy 2-ethylhexyl carbonate, ethyl tert-butyl peroxalate; benzyl (tert-butyl peroxy) oxalate; tertiary-butyl-N-(3-tolylperoxy) carbamate and persalt compounds, such as potassium persulfate and mixtures thereof,
wherein 2,2′-azo-bis(2-methyl propionitrile), 2,2′-azodi(2-methylbutyronitrile), dilauroyl peroxide, cumyl peroxyneodecanoate, tert-amyl peroxy-2-ethylhexanoate are especially preferred.
Process step B) and/or process step D) in the process according to the instant invention are preferably characterized in, that the at least one initiator is added in an amount of from 50 to 100,000 ppm, preferably from 500 to 50000 ppm, more preferably 2000 to 25000 ppm, per each process step B) and/or D), wherein the ppm refer to the total weight of all monomers provided in process step A) (for the initiator added in step B)) and/or process step C) (for the initiator added in step D)), respectively.
Process step B) and/or D), preferably B) only), in the process according to the instant invention are preferably characterized in, that the addition of the at least one initiator to polymerize the monomers is conducted in at least two portions while performing the radical polymerisation after each addition of the initiator portion.
Process step B) and/or D) in the process according to the instant invention is conducted in neat or in a solvent, preferably in neat. The amount of solvent can vary from 1 wt.-% to 95 wt.-%, preferably from 2 wt.-% to 50 wt.-%, more preferably from 3 wt.-% to 40 wt.-%, wherein the weight percent refer to the total weight all monomers provided in process step A).
Possible solvents can be but not are limited to: alcohols like methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, hexanol, tert-butanol, isoamyl alcohol, glycol, hexylene glycol, propylenglycol, butylglycol, butyldiglycol, glycerine, ketones like ethylmethyl ketone, methylbutyl ketone, acetone, ester like methyl acetate, ethyl acetate, isopropylacetate, propyl acetate, butyl acetate, hexylacetate, isooctyl acetate, methoxypropylacetate, acids like formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, ether like diethylether, dibutylether, tert-butylmethylether, petroleum ether, tetrahydrofuran, dioxane, polyethers, carbonates like ethylencarbonate, propylencarbonate, dimethylcarbonate, diethylcarbonate, dipropylcarbonate, nitriles like benzonitrile, acetonitrile, toluene, xylene, ionic liquids, water, organic oils such as TEGOSOFT® types and mixtures thereof.
In process step A) and/or C), preferably A) and C), in the process according to the instant invention at least one chain transfer agent can be added, preferably in an amount such that the weight ratio of added initiator in process step B) and/or D) and the chain transfer agent added in the step A) (for the initiator added in step B)) and/or C) (for the initiator added in step D)), respectively, is in the range of 1:5 to 1:0.01, preferably 1:1 to 1:0.02, more preferably 1:0.5 to 1:0.05.
The chain transfer agent preferably added in process step A) and/or C), preferably A) and C), in the process according to the instant invention is selected from at least one of the group of tetrachloromethane, bromotrichloromethane, Isooctyl 3-mercaptopropionate, 4-methylbenzenethiol, tert-nonyl mercaptan, pentaerythritol tetrakis(2-mercaptoacetate), pentaerythritol tetrakis(3-mercaptopropionate), 4,4′-thiobisbenzenethiol, trimethylolpropane tris(3-mercaptopropionate), 1,8-dimercapto-3,6-dioxaoctane, n-dodecanethiol, ethyl mercaptan, mercaptoethanol, mercaptopropanol, mercaptobutanol, mercaptohexanol, mercaptooctanol, propanethiol, dithiothreitol, cysteine, homocysteine, glutathione, tert-dodecanethiol, thioglycolic acid, dimercaptosuccinic, 2,3-dimercapto-1-propanesulfonic acid, acetylcysteine and thiophenol.
In an alternative process according to the instant invention no chain transfer agent is present in the process.
Process step B) and D) in the process according to the instant invention is preferably conducted at a temperature of 10° C. to 250° C., preferably of 20° C. to 200° C. and more preferably of 60° C. to 180° C.
Process step B) and D) in the process according to the instant invention is preferably conducted at a pressure of 0.5 to 20 bar, more preferably from 1 to 5 bar and even more preferably at atmospheric pressure.
Process step B) and D) in the process according to the instant invention is preferably conducted at a pH of 3 to 10, more preferably 4 to 9 and even more preferably 5 to 8.
Process step B) and D) in the process according to the instant invention is preferably can be conducted not only in daylight but also in the absence of light and is preferably conducted in the absence of light.
Process step E) in the process according to the instant invention serves the purpose to remove excess of monomers.
It is a preferred process according to the instant invention when step E) in the process according to the instant invention is a chasing step. Thus, it is preferred, when step E) in the process according to the instant invention comprises the addition of further initiator after completion of process step D), in order to remove excess of monomer. The further initiator is preferably applied in concentrations of 0.01 wt.-% to 5 wt.-%, preferably 0.1 wt.-%to 2.5 wt.-%, more preferably 0.2 wt.-% to 2 wt.-%, wherein the weight percent refer to the total weight of all monomers provided in process step A) and C). The addition of further initiator in step E) in the process according to the instant invention is preferably repeated up to four times, preferably twice, more preferably once. The initiator added in step E) of the instant invention is selected from the same initiators that can be used in step B) and D) according to the instant invention, with the same level of preferability. Also, the reaction conditions in process E) of the instant invention are selected from the same conditions that can be applied in step B) and D) according to the instant invention, with the same level of preferability.
The further clean-up step F) in the process according to the instant invention can be selected from extraction with water and/or organic solvents, a distillation with or without vacuum and/or recrystallization from water and/or organic solvents.
Step F) in the process according to the instant invention preferably comprises a water steam distillation. Here, some water is applied to the reaction mixture in order to remove excess monomers, undesired side products, decomposed iniator and/or solvent from the reaction. The amount of added water can vary from 0.1 wt.-% to 20 wt.-%, preferably 0.5 wt.-% to 10 wt.-%, more preferably 1 wt.-% to 5 wt.-%, wherein the weight percent refer to the total weight of all monomers provided in process step A) and C).
It is preferred, that step E), more preferably step E) and step F), is/are comprised in the process according to the instant invention.
In a preferred process according to the instant invention the monomers of general formula (II) make up for at least 90 wt.-%, preferably 95 wt.-%, of all polymerizable monomers present in the total process.
A further subject matter of the present invention is a polymer obtainable by the process of the instant invention. The polymer obtainable by this process preferably is characterized in, that it has a polydispersity index PDI of greater than 4.5.
A further subject matter of the present invention is a personal care formulation containing at least one polymer of the instant invention or at least one polymer obtainable by the process of the instant invention.
Furthermore, the formulations according to the invention can comprise at least one additional component selected from the group of
emollients,
emulsifiers,
thickeners/viscosity regulators/stabilizers,
UV photoprotective filters,
antioxidants,
hydrotropes (or polyols),
solids and fillers,
film formers,
pearlescent additives,
deodorant and antiperspirant active ingredients,
insect repellents,
self-tanning agents,
preservatives,
conditioners,
perfumes,
dyes,
odour absorbers,
cosmetic active ingredients,
care additives,
superfatting agents,
solid particles,
solvents,
wherein perfums, solid particles, and/or UV photoprotective filters, especially organic filters, are preferably comprised.
The preferably comprised solid particles are characterized by having a mean particle size d50 of from 0,1 to 1000 μm.
The mean particle size d50 is preferably determined by light scattering in a laser beam with a Malvern Mastersizer 2000. The determination is done using the dry measurement. Each time 20 to 40 g powder are fed using a Scirocco dry powder feeder. The particle flow is controlled operating the vibrating tray with a feed-rate of 70%. The dispersive air pressure is adjusted to be 3 bar. Each measurement is accompanied by a measurement of the background (10 seconds/10,000 single measurements). The measurement time of the sample is 5 seconds (5,000 single measurements). The refraction index as well as the blue light value are fixed to be 1.52. The evaluation is done using the Mie-theory.
Substances which can be used as exemplary representatives of the individual groups to be comprised in the formulation according to the invention are known to the person skilled in the art and can be found for example in the German application DE 102008001788.4. This patent application is hereby incorporated by reference and thus forms part of the disclosure.
As regards further optional components and the amounts of these components used, reference is made expressly to the relevant handbooks known to the person skilled in the art, for example K. Schrader, “Grundlagen and Rezepturen der Kosmetika [Fundamentals and Formulations of Cosmetics]”, 2nd edition, page 329 to 341, Hüthig Buch Verlag Heidelberg.
The amounts of the respective additives are dependent on the intended use.
Typical guide formulations for the respective applications are known prior art and are contained for example in the brochures of the manufacturers of the respective base materials and active ingredients. These existing formulations can generally be adopted unchanged. If required, however, the desired modifications can be undertaken without complication by means of simple experiments for the purposes of adaptation and optimization.
Instantly claimed is also the use of at least one polymer of the instant invention or at least one polymer obtainable by the process of the instant invention for forming a film on a surface, especially skin and/or hair.
Instantly claimed is also the use of at least one polymer of the instant invention or at least one polymer obtainable by the process of the instant invention for retaining a fragrance on a surface, especially skin and/or hair.
Instantly claimed is also the use of at least one polymer of the instant invention or at least one polymer obtainable by the process of the instant invention for giving a dry skin feel to formulations, especially emulsions.
Instantly claimed is also the use of at least one polymer of the instant invention or at least one polymer obtainable by the process of the instant invention for the dispersion of solid pigments. The solid pigments are those preferably comprised in the formulation according to the present invention.
Two or more polymers according to the invention can be used together.
The examples adduced hereinafter describe the present invention by way of example, without any intention that the invention, the scope of application of which is apparent from the entirety of the description and the claims, be restricted to the embodiments specified in the examples.
Molecular Weight Determination by Gel Permeation Chromatography (GPC):
GPC measurements for the determination of polydispersity PDI which is the quotient of the weight-average molecular weight Mw and the number average molecular weight Mn were carried out under the following measuring conditions:
The sample was prepared by making a 10 mg/mL solution using tetrahydrofuran as the diluent. The sample preparation was placed in the oven at 54° C. for ten minutes then on a wrist action shaker for 60 minutes to aid dissolution. Upon visual inspection, the sample appeared to be completely dissolved in the diluent. The sample prepared was analyzed using two 300×7.5 mm polypore columns (manufactured by Agilent Technologies), a Waters 2695 chromatographic system, tetrahydrofuran mobile phase and refractive index detection. The sample was filtered by 0.45 um Nylon filters prior to injecting into the liquid chromatograph.
The standards used for calibration are EasiVial narrow polystyrene (PS) standards from Agilent Technologies. Narrow polystyrene standards ranging from 2.520.000 to 162 Daltons were used for calibration. The system uses a PSS SECcurity 1260 RI detector. The PS calibration curve is used to determine the molecular weight averages. The recording of diagrams and determination of the different molecular weights is conducted by the Win GPC Unichrom 8.1 software.
Melting Point determination by DSC:
This method describes a generalized procedure for determining the melting temperatures of polymers by Differential Scanning calorimetry (DSC). The method is based on ASTM E7941 and ASTM D 34182. Calibration of the DSC is done in accordance with ASTM E 9672.
Chemicals:
Behenyl acrylate (abcr)
Stearyl acrylate (abcr)
2-mercapto ethanol (Aldrich)
Isopropyl Alcohol (Aldrich)
tert-Butyl peroxy-3,5,5-trimethylhexanoate (Akzo Nobel)
tert-Amylperoxy-2-ethylhexanoate (Akzo Nobel)
4 g of Isopropanol and 16 g of Stearyl acrylate were placed in a four-neck flask equipped with a KPG blade stirrer, an internal thermometer, two dropping funnel, reflux condenser and an extension for further two necks under agitation after oxygen was removed from the system through nitrogen purge for about 20 min and heated up to 80° C. 0.27 g of tert-Amylperoxy-2-ethylhexanoate, dissolved in 0.75 g of Isopropanol, were added and stirred for further 30 minutes. Afterwards 64 g of stearyl acrylate and 1.1 g of tert-Amylperoxy-2-ethylhexanoate, dissolved in 3 g of Isopropanol, were added within 60 minutes and stirred for further 3 hours at 80° C. The temperature was increased to 125° C. and residual solvent was distilled off. Finally, 0.4 g of tert-Butyl peroxy-3,5,5-trimethylhexanoate were added within 15 minutes and stirred for 60 minutes at 125° C. This procedure was repeated once.
Mn=11000 g/mol, Mw=76000 g/mol, PDI=6.9
Tm=49° C.
122 g stearyl acrylate and 0.2 g of 2-mercapto ethanol were placed in a four-neck flask equipped with a KPG blade stirrer, an internal thermometer, two dropping funnel, reflux condenser and an extension for further two necks under agitation after oxygen was removed from the system through nitrogen purge for about 20 min and heated up to 100° C. 0.29 g of tert-Amylperoxy-2-ethylhexanoate was added within 5 minutes and stirred for further 60 minutes at 125° C. Afterwards further 1.8 g of tert-Amylperoxy-2-ethylhexanoate was added within 25 minutes and stirred for 5 minutes. Then 487 g of stearyl acrylate, 0.8 g of 2-mercapto ethanol and 8.6 g of tert-Amylperoxy-2-ethylhexanoate were added within 90 minutes and stirred for further 30 minutes at 125° C. Finally, 3 g of tert-Butyl peroxy-3,5,5-trimethylhexanoate were added within 15 minutes and stirred for 60 minutes at 125° C. This procedure was repeated twice.
Mn=9900 g/mol, Mw=98000 g/mol, PDI=9.9
Tm=47.3° C.
143 g behenyl acrylate and 0.2 g of 2-mercapto ethanol were placed in a four-neck flask equipped with a KPG blade stirrer, an internal thermometer, two dropping funnel, reflux condenser and an extension for further two necks under agitation after oxygen was removed from the system through nitrogen purge for about 20 min and heated up to 100° C. 0.29 g of tert-Amylperoxy-2-ethylhexanoate was added within 5 minutes and stirred for further 60 minutes at 125° C. Afterwards further 1.8 g of tert-Amylperoxy-2-ethylhexanoate was added within 25 minutes and stirred for 5 minutes. Then 487 g of stearyl acrylate, 0.8 g of 2-mercapto ethanol and 8.6 g of tert-Amylperoxy-2-ethylhexanoate were added within 90 minutes and stirred for further 30 minutes at 125° C. Finally, 3 g of tert-Butyl peroxy-3,5,5-trimethylhexanoate were added within 15 minutes and stirred for 60 minutes at 125° C. This procedure was repeated twice.
Mn=9500 g/mol, Mw=89000 g/mol, PDI=9.4
Tm=64° C.
20 g of Isopropanol are placed in a four-neck flask equipped with a KPG blade stirrer, an internal thermometer, two dropping funnel, reflux condenser and an extension for further two necks under agitation after oxygen was removed from the system through nitrogen purge for about 20 min and heated up to 80° C. 1.03 g of tert-Amylperoxy-2-ethylhexanoate, dissolved in 4.1 g of Isopropanol, 60 g of stearyl acrylate and 0.1 g of 2-mercapto ethanol were added within 90 minutes and stirred for further 3 hours. The temperature was increased to 125° C. and residual solvent was distilled off supported by vacuum of 50 mbar. Afterwards, 0.3 g of tert-Butyl peroxy-3,5,5-trimethylhexanoate were added and stirred for 60 minutes at 125° C. This procedure was repeated again.
Mn=4200 g/mol, Mw=11000 g/mol, PDI=2.6
Tm=49° C.
Functionalized polymers according to the invention have been found to have advantages with regard to skin feel. To illustrate the effect, oil-in-water (O/W) sun care emulsions according to the following table were prepared on 200 g scale. Formulation with functionalized polymer not according to the current invention was prepared for reference.
Viscosity was determined with a Brookfield RV-DV I device, spindle 93, 10 rpm, one month after preparation. All formulations showed similar viscosities in the range of 24-32 Pa·s and exhibited pasty-soft textures.
Skin feel of the emulsions was evaluated by sensory panel testing. Thirteen trained panelists applied 20 μL of each formulation on a defined test area of approx. 10 cm2 on the volar forearm, not knowing their composition. Formulations were distributed using a finger within the test area by circling movements until complete absorption (or maximum 60 circles). Evaluation of skin feel parameters took place during distribution of the formulation on the skin.
“Richness” of formulations is desirable in functional cosmetics like anti-aging applications, where a rich skin feel is associated with an anti-aging activity by the consumer. Richness is not only indicated by the viscosity of a formulation, but also by behaviour of the formulation when applied on skin and mechanical breakdown of the emulsion structures, best represented by skin feel parameters like ‘spreadability’ and ‘waxiness’. The lower the spreadability and the higher the waxiness, the higher the perceived richness of a formulation.
People were asked to rank the three formulations with respect to spreadability from 0 (very difficult to spread) to 10 (very easy to spread) and with respect to waxiness from 0 (not waxy) to 10 (very waxy). Scores from all panelists were averaged and average ratings were subjected to factor analysis (one-factorial principle components analysis, varimax rotation) to extract the relative “richness” of the three formulations, which is obtained by normalization of the data on a scale from −1 to +1. In this way, a value of −1 corresponds to the lowest richness (relatively light; high spreadability and low waxiness), a value of +1 corresponds to highest richness (relatively low spreadability and high waxiness).
Surprisingly, it was found that organic polymers according to the current invention (examples 1 and 2) have more pronounced “richness” than organic polymer not according to the current invention (comparative example), which makes them ideally suited for anti-aging applications, among others.
Functionalized polymers according to the current invention have been found to have advantages with regard to UV filter compatibility. To illustrate the effect, oil gel systems with organic UV filters according to the following table were prepared on 50 g scale. Oil gel with functionalized polymer not according to the current invention was prepared for reference.
Oil gels were prepared by mixing of ingredients and heating to 60-70° C. until a clear solution is obtained. After cooling with gentle stirring, when first turbidities were observed, it was homogenized with UltraTurrax for 30 seconds at 20,500 rpm. The mixture was immediately filled into glass bottles and left untouched without further stirring for the oil gels to crystallize.
A high compatibility of oil/UV filters and organic polymer is indicated by a high viscosity and simultaneously a high clarity of the resulting oil gel. The general assumption is that in such case the organic UV filters and emollients are most effectively/homogeneously embedded into the three-dimensional network which is formed by the organic polymer.
Viscosity of oil gels were determined with a Brookfield RV-DV I device, spindle 96, 100 rpm, one week after preparation.
Pictures of the oil gels in the glass bottles were taken under standardized conditions with a light source behind the bottles.
Grayscale images (see
Results are summarized in the following table.
Surprisingly, it was found that the higher the polydispersity index of the organic polymer, the higher the viscosity and clarity of the resulting oil gel. This means that a higher PDI gives better interaction in complex mixtures with cosmetic emollient (mixtures) and a combination of various organic UV filters. The experiment shows that organic polymers according to the invention are most compatible with organic UV filters which makes them ideally suited for sun care applications, among others.
Application Example 3: Compatibility with Organic UV Filters (In Vitro UVAPF/SPF of Sun Care Formulations)
Functionalized polymers according to the current invention have been found to have advantages with regard to UV filter compatibility. To illustrate the effect, oil-in-water (O/W) sun care emulsions according to the following table were prepared on 200 g scale. Formulation with functionalized polymer not according to the current invention was prepared for reference.
One mg/cm2 emulsion was applied to roughened Polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) plates (7.0×3.5 cm, 2 μm roughness, Schonberg GmbH & Co. KG) and let dry for 30 min at 30° C. SPF testing was conducted using a Labsphere UV-2000S Ultraviolet Transmittance Analyzer. UVAPF/SPF is the ratio between in vitro UVA protection factor and in vitro SPF and is obtained in the experiment. The value is an indication for broadband UV protection and the European Commission recommends since 2006 for all sunscreen products a UVAP/SPF≥33 (in vivo) in order to have sufficient broadness. The absolute in vitro UVAPF/SPF does not necessarily match with the absolute in vivo value, but in vitro testing is typically used for screening purposes and comparison of different film formers, before selection of candidates for time- and cost-intensive in vivo SPF testing. Therefore, in vitro UVAPF/SPF should be optimized (as close to 0.33 as possible) and should not be negatively influenced by the film former.
Results of in vitro SPF testing are summarized in the following table.
Surprisingly, it was found that organic polymer with higher polydispersity index also give higher UVAPF/SPF values in the in vitro SPF test.
This experiment shows that organic polymers according to the invention are most compatible in sun care formulations indicated by an optimized UVAPF/SPF value.
Functionalized polymers according to the current invention have been found to have advantages with regard to skin feel. To illustrate the effect, oil-in-water (O/W) sun care emulsions according to the following table were prepared on 200 g scale. Formulation with functionalized polymer not according to the current invention was prepared for reference.
Skin feel of the emulsions was evaluated by sensory panel testing. Fourteen trained panelists applied 20 μL of each formulation on a defined test area of approx. 10 cm2 on the volar forearm, not knowing their composition. Formulations were distributed using a finger within the test area by circling movements until complete absorption (or maximum 60 circles). Evaluation of skin feel parameters took place during distribution of the formulation on the skin. In particular, “dry feel” of formulations was evaluated by the skin feel parameters oiliness, absorption and slipperiness. Dry feel is desirable in functional formulations like sun care emulsions which tend to give oily and slippery residue when containing organic UV filters, and where consumers. Therefore, in such systems, a quick absorption with low remaining oiliness and slipperiness is favored.
People were asked to rank the three sun care formulations from example 1 with respect to skin feel parameters from 0 (attribute not pronounced) to 10 (attribute highly pronounced). Scores from all panelists were averaged and average ratings were subjected to factor analysis (one-factorial principle components analysis, varimax rotation) to extract the relative “dryness” of the three formulations, which is obtained by normalization of the data on a scale from −1 to +1. In this way, a value of −1 corresponds to the lowest dryness (relatively oily and slippery, low absorption), a value of +1 corresponds to highest dryness (little oily and slippery, good absorption).
Surprisingly, it was found that organic polymers according to the current invention have more pronounced “dryness” than organic polymer not according to the current invention, which makes them ideally suited for sun care applications, among others.
Application Example 5: Protective Film against Cigarette Smoke
Functionalized polymers according to the current invention have been found to have advantages with regard to protection of skin from malodours caused by cigarette smoke. To illustrate the effect, oil-in-water (O/W) body care emulsions according to the following table were prepared on 200 g scale. Formulations with functionalized polymer not according to the current invention were prepared for reference.
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil
Protective effect of the emulsions was evaluated by sensory panel testing. For the study nine volunteers were recruited. Each panelist applied one formulation on each volar forearm (first volunteer: formulation 1 and 2, second volunteer: formulation 3 and 1, third volunteer: formulation 2 and 3, and so on), in this way testing each formulation on 6 forearms. Forearms were prepared by washing with SLES solution (12% Sodium Laureth Sulfate in water) for 30 s and letting dry for 5 min. 200 mg of each formulation was applied on a defined test area of approx. 100 cm2 on the (entire) volar forearm. A deep fryer (Tristar FR-6935) was filled with 2 l frying oil (Palmin) and adjusted to 170° C. 750 g Pommes Frites (Mc Cain, 1-2-3-Frites Original, equilibrated at room temperature) were deep fried for 10 min. During the frying process each one volunteer at a time held both their volar forearms into the evaporating vapors from the deep fryer at a defined distance of approx. 50 cm for 30 seconds. Starting after 5 min of the frying process, volunteers were treated subsequently, followed by odor evaluation by three trained, professional sniffers. Olfactory evaluation was performed 5 min after vapor treatment and the degree of rancid/fatty smell on the volar forearm was evaluated on a scale from zero (not detectable) to five (very pronounced). Perceptible differences between right and left forearm were rated with a difference of at least one value on the rating scale. Average rating scores determined by the three experts for each formulation are summarized in the following table:
Surprisingly, it was found that organic polymers according to the current invention have most pronounced protective properties against adhesion of malodors on skin, which makes them ideally suited for face and body care applications with protective claims, among others.
The following formulation examples are listing “organic polymer” without further specification. All of the following examples are formulated with organic polymer (example 1), organic polymer (example 2) and organic polymer (example 3) according to the instant examples; thus each formulation is prepared in three different embodiments.
Sun Care Spray SPF 30
Oil Release Sun Care Lotion SPF 50
Sun Care Spray SPF 30
Transparent Sun Care Spray SPF 25
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil
Light O/W Sun Care Lotion SPF 30
Dry Touch Hand Moisturizing Cream SPF 15
Age Defense BB Cream SPF 10
Moisture Caring BB Cream SPF 15
Anhydrous Stick SPF 10
O/W Sun Protect & Bronze SPF 20
Sun Care Foam SPF 50
W/O Sun Protection Shake-Shake SPF 20
Light Sun Care W/O Shake-shake SPF 20
W/O Organic Shake-shake SPF 30 PA+++
Summer Paradise Cream SPF 30
On the Go UV Protection Stick SPF 50
Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax (2442L, KahlWax)
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil)
Transparent UV Protection Water Spray SPF 30
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil)
Sun Care Cream SPF 25
Inorganic Water Resistant O/W Sunscreen SPF 20
Feel the Sun Spray SPF 50
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil)
Sun Protection Stick
Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera, Ascorbyl Palmitate,
Euphorbia Cerifera Cera (Candelilla Wax 2039L,
Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil)
W/O Quick-Breaking Cream SPF 15
Fun in the Sun SPF 30 Spray
Cationic Sun Screen SPF 10
W/O Sun Care Lotion SPF 8, Water Resistant
Cationic Sun Screen SPF 20, Water Resistant
Cationic Sun Screen SPF 15, Water Resistant
Cationic Sun Care Cream SPF 25
Everyday Sunshine Cream SPF 15
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)
High Sun Protection Lotion O/W SPF 50
Icy O/W Sun Care Lotion SPF 25
Low Viscosity W/O Suncare Lotion SPF 25 PA+++
O/W Sun Care Gel SPF 30 PA+++
Sun Care Aqua Gel SPF 50, PA++++
O/W Sun Care Cream with High Protection SPF 50 PA+++
Transparent Sun Stick SPF 50, PA++++
Sun Care Cream SPF 15
Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil)
Sun Care Spray SPF 30
Anhydrous Stick
AP/Deo Stick
AP/Deo Roll-on
Deo Roll-on, PEG-free, ACH-free
O/W AP/Deo Roll-on
PEG- and ACH-free AP/Deo roll-on
AP/Deo Stick
W/O Foundation
Color Cosmetics Formulation
Cooling After Sun Gel
W/O Emulsion
W/O Cream
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil
Anti-Aging Day Care
W/O emulsion
Skin Replenishing Serum
Dual-Action Wrinkle Serum
Lip Filler Color Lipstick
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil; (Castor Oil, Aldrich)
Euphorbia Cerifera Wax (Kahlwax 2039L, KahlWax)
Copernicia Cerifera Cera (Kahlwax 2442L, KahlWax)
Lip Filler Lipstick
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil (Castor Oil, Aldrich)
Euphorbia Cerifera Wax (Kahlwax 2039L, KahlWax)
W/O emulsion
O/W Cream
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
After Shave Lotion
W/O Emulsion
W/O Emulsion
Retinol Cream
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil
Prunus Amygdalis Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil
Anti-aging Moisturizer
Shaving Cream
Sprayable Hairmilk, PEG-free
Strong Hold Styling Gel
Leave-In Conditioner Foam
Leave-In Conditioner Spray
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 20191689.7 | Aug 2020 | EP | regional |
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP2021/072581 | 8/13/2021 | WO |
