This invention relates generally to garment construction techniques, and, more particularly, to construction of garments using mesh material, including gathering, ruching, draping, and fastening techniques.
Chain mail is typically a mesh made of small metal rings linked together in a pattern. Chain mail armor has existed since the third or fourth century B.C. and was originally valued for the protection it provided during battle. In the last hundred years, chain mail has been used in a protective role in gloves (such as for butchers or woodcarvers), in armor (such as in stab-proof vests or to protect divers from shark bites), and in shields or guards in industrial settings (such as in metal working operations).
Though the protective quality of chain mail mesh is well appreciated, uses for mesh material have recently expanded. It has become known for its aesthetic value due to the fluidity of the mesh and to its reflectivity that causes a play of lights on the mesh. Currently, it is recognized as an architectural design element, is useful for distinctive interior decor, and is appealing as a fashion material. This new recognition of the aesthetic potential of mesh materials has triggered the use of new materials to form mesh (various metals and plastics), new patterns of mesh, and new types of mesh, such as spider mesh that has multiple spiders with each spider joining four separate small metal rings within a grid of rings, as seen in
However, though mesh material may now be perceived as aesthetically pleasing and may be appreciated as desirable for use in fashion and home furnishings, the conventional techniques used in producing fashion items and protective gear do not provide the variety of looks desired by the fashion and design industries due to the lack of mesh construction techniques. Though mesh material may share some similarity in function, form, and use with woven, non-woven, or knitted fabric, it cannot be sewn like a typical fabric. For example, seams, buttonholes, pleats, flutes, gathers, and darts, which are easy to sew into woven, knitted, or non-woven fabric, cannot be sewn into the mesh material. Current techniques in use for mesh material cannot produce ruching to allow the mesh to adapt to the shapes of the human body, cannot create gathering to create ruffles or to increase drape or to reduce an expanse, and do not allow for attachment, disconnection, and reattachment of portions of a garment. For example, using current mesh material techniques, it is not possible to sew a seam to gather an edge or to sew buttonholes to receive buttons to adjust the length of a strap.
Accordingly, there is a need for techniques for garment construction that function similarly to the gathering, ruching, and fastening/unfastening techniques used when fashioning clothing or decor with woven, non-woven, or knitted cloth, but that can be implemented using mesh material.
The present invention is directed to multiple garment construction techniques. These techniques may all be used with mesh material, where the mesh material includes multiple spiders each with four legs that can interconnect with four separate rings. A connectable chain of spiders and rings of one row connects with a corresponding connectable chain of rings and spiders of an adjacent row at a chain connection column. These methods address the inherent challenges in working with mesh material that cannot be sewn on a machine or by hand in the manner of woven, knitted, or non-woven fabrics.
The first garment construction technique presented herein is a method of creating ruching in an article or mesh portion of a mesh material. This method may be applied to one area of a mesh portion or to multiple areas of a mesh portion. This method includes removing multiple triangular wedges of spiders and rings. The wedges are removed along a pre-determined edge, which may be the natural edge or may be a created edge. The removal of each of the triangular wedges creates a concave void defined by two void ring-spider borders and the opening between the rings or spiders on the outermost edge of the void ring-spider borders. The two void ring-spider borders form an angle like the front edges of an arrowhead. The two void ring-spider borders are the spiders and rings that were adjacent to the edges of the removed triangular wedge, but now remain as an edge.
Between adjacent concave triangular voids, a spider/ring margin remains. The spider/ring margin is from one to a few rings of the original pre-determined edge. A banding-piece (having spiders and rings) then is used to connect to the spiders and rings of the spider/ring margin while leaving the spiders and rings of the two void ring-spider borders (which were adjacent to the edges of the triangular void before it was removed) unattached. This creates a first niche, which is a pleating or folding effect created in the mesh material, which gives a similar appearance to a single niche in a traditional woven, knitted, or non-woven fabric. Although a particular design may require only one ruche, commonly multiple ruches are formed adjacent to each other, and more than one area of ruching may be incorporated into a single article, as seen in
The second garment construction technique is a method to gather a mesh material to reduce the length of an edge and/or to create a stretch mesh material. In a first aspect of the second garment construction technique, to reduce the length of an edge, a filament is run through the closed spider legs of a chain connection column at the edge of an article of mesh material. Then the closed spider legs are drawn into closer proximity by extracting the excess filament between the spiders. Thus, the portion of the length of the filament that interacts with or supports the closed spider legs is reduced as the closed spider legs are snugged together. This gathering technique solves the problem of reducing the edge length to create a gather and solves it unobtrusively.
The second aspect of the second garment construction technique is an extension of the first aspect. It is a method to create a two-way mesh material. In this aspect, multiple filaments are run through the closed spider legs of parallel chain connection columns of the garment or material. The multiple filaments may be run through every row of chain connection column or through some columns while leaving the other columns unchanged. The parallel chain connection columns may be vertical columns or horizontal columns. This aspect can create a two-dimensional stretch mesh material.
The third aspect of the second garment construction technique is an extension of the first and second aspects. It is a method to create a four-way stretch mesh material. In this aspect, filaments are run through the closed spider legs of parallel horizontal chain connection columns of the garment or material and are run through the closed spider legs of parallel vertical chain connection columns of the garment. (The vertical columns are substantially perpendicular to the horizontal columns.) The filaments may be run through every horizontal and vertical chain connection column of spider legs or through some horizontal and vertical chain connection columns while leaving the other chain connection columns unchanged.
The third garment construction technique is a system to create an adjustable-length strap or strap-like portion suitable for use with garments or articles of mesh material (though this method is usable with other types of fabrics), which may be particularly useful in fabrics used in fashion, decor, or other fabrics used in aesthetically pleasing usages. The mesh and non-mesh fabrics are termed “fashion fabrics.” The adjustability is provided without the need to tamper with the fashion fabric front, as opposed to conventional fastening means, such as a button and buttonhole or correlating snaps, that mar the fashion fabric front. This technique provides the ability to adjust the length of a strap or strap-like portion without sewing through the material front, which is not visually desirable to do with a mesh material. Three aspects of the third garment construction technique are provided.
These garment construction techniques may be used by a tailor fashioning a bespoke garment, by the garment industry in making mass market garments, by a seamstress creating his/her own garment, by manufacturers providing mesh material, or the like. However, for conciseness, the maker of the garment (or of the material from which the garment is made) is referred to herein as the “tailor” or “designer.”
The object of the invention is to provide garment construction techniques that can be applied to mesh materials formed by a grid of multiple spiders and multiple rings, which give an improved performance over the currently available mesh material garment construction techniques.
These and other objects, features, and advantages of the present invention will become more readily apparent from the attached drawings and from the detailed description of the preferred embodiments which follow.
The preferred embodiments of the invention will hereinafter be described in conjunction with the appended drawings, provided to illustrate and not to limit the invention, where like designations denote like elements.
Shown throughout the figures, the present invention is directed toward three garment construction techniques for use with mesh material and includes an application to a dress-type garment. The mesh material of the prior art, as shown in
In a similar manner, the next leg 21 of the spider is connected to a second ring 30. The third and fourth legs 21 are likewise connected to a third and fourth ring 30, respectively. Thus, except at the edge of the mesh material 55, each spider 20 is connected to four separate rings 30, and each ring 30 is connected to four separate spiders 20. One row or chain of spiders 20 with interspersed rings 30 is joined to an adjacent row or chain of rings 30 interspersed with spiders 20. The first row meets the adjacent row at a chain connection column 31 (
In combination, the multiple spiders 20 and rings 30 form a stylish and fashionable mesh material 55. But, in contrast to woven, knitted, and non-woven fabric, the mesh material 55 cannot be sewn with standard garment construction techniques. Therefore, the designer of garments or home decor is limited when using the conventional garment construction techniques.
Three garment construction techniques are provided herein that provide the designer of mesh materials greater flexibility in usage. The first garment construction technique is a ruching technique, shown in
Referring now to
In preparation for starting the formation of the ruching 10, the tailor obtains mesh material 55, which may be received as bulk mesh material on a bolt or may be a portion of mesh material. The ruching may be applied to one or multiple areas of the mesh material, or the tailor may remove sections of the mesh material 55 to form a piece, a shaped portion, or a fashion, utilitarian, or decor article (termed generally a “mesh portion 56”) of the mesh material 55. When a mesh portion 56 is fashioned, it may be generally shaped according to a pattern or a design of the final item to be constructed. For example, a article or mesh portion 56 may be prepared according to a pattern for a skirt, a bodice, a dress (as in
As is standard in mesh material 55, the mesh portion 56 includes a grid of multiple spiders 20 and multiple rings 30. The mesh portion 56 has a periphery, which is disposed along the perimeter of the mesh portion 56. The mesh portion periphery may run along a single edge (such as in the case in which the mesh portion 56 is circular or generally circular) or may run along multiple edges (such as the dress shown in
In overview, the first step of the ruching technique is shown in the detail view of
In more detail, as seen in
In the first step, the first triangular wedge 35 of mesh material is removed by disconnecting spiders 20 from rings 30. The various disconnections 17 between the rings 30 and the legs 21 of the spiders 20 are shown by the dot-dash lines. For example, a first leg 21 of spider 20A is disconnected at disconnection line 17 from ring 30A; another leg 21 of spider 20A is disconnected from ring 30B; a first leg 21 of spider 20B is disconnected at a disconnection line 17 from ring 30B; another leg 21 of spider 20B is disconnected from ring 30C, and so on and so forth. This is continued to disconnect the first side of the triangular wedge 35, which leaves a void ring-spider border 57 defining a first side of the angled-sided, concave void 53. The same process of disconnecting spiders 20 from rings 30 is repeated on the next side of the triangular wedge 35; to disconnect the second side of the triangular wedge 35. The remaining spiders and rings (which were previously attached to the rings and spiders of the triangular wedge) form a second void ring-spider border 57, which defines a second side of the concave void 53. The two void ring-spider borders 57 meet at an angle to define two sides of the concave void 53. The opening between the outermost spider or ring of the two void ring-spider borders 57 defines the third side of the triangular-shaped, concave void 53.
With the first and second sides of the triangular wedge 35 being disconnected, and with the third side being part of the pre-determined edge, so no further spiders and rings need be disconnected. This frees the triangular wedge 35 from the mesh portion; it may be discarded or saved as a scrap.
The concave void 53 that is shown in
If more than one niche 10 is desired, as is typical, this first step is repeated over and over (one time for every niche 10) along the length of the pre-determined edge 25 that is to be ruched. The removal of triangular wedges 35 in preparation for the second step of the ruching may be performed along one or more than one of the to-be-ruched pre-determined edges 25. An example of removal of multiple triangular wedges 35 along opposing pre-determined edges 25 is seen in
As seen in
The adjacent triangle wedges 35 are not removed contiguously. A portion of the pre-determined edge 25 is left remaining intact between the adjacent concave voids 53; this intact portion is a spider/ring margin 54. The spider/ring margin 54 is at least one spider 20 and one ring 30 long and is preferably at least four spiders and rings long (a spider 20, a ring 30, a second spider 20, and a second ring 30), as shown in
In step two, after completion of step one along the area to be ruched, a banding-piece 12 is used. In overview, the banding-piece 12 is connected to the spider(s) 20 and ring(s) 30 of the multiple spider/ring margins 54 while leaving the spiders and rings in the concave void 53 unattached. This creates a ruche 10 (
As can be seen in
The banding-piece 12 may be formed as part of the mesh portion 56 (as shown in
In
In
Any number of ruches 10 can be created in this manner. The number created may be based on the design of the item or garment to be created.
When one ruche 10 is to be created without a near or adjacent ruche 10, the remaining portion of pre-determined edge 25 adjacent to the outermost ring or spider of the void ring-spider border 57 at the first side of the concave void 53 and the remaining portion of pre-determined edge 25 adjacent to the outermost ring or spider of the void ring-spider border 57 at the second side of the concave void 53 serve as the spider/ring margins 54. These spider/ring margins 54 are connected in the second step of the ruching technique to the banding-piece 12, just as in the above example, which described multiple ruches 10.
The designer of the ruching can, when desired, create a tighter tension or a looser tension in the ruching. The tighter tension is created by removing one row of the spider/ring margin 54. Then, instead of the outer row of the spider/ring margin 54 being used to connect to the banding-piece 12, the second, inner row is used as the revised spider/ring margin 54 to be connected. This creates greater tension. To lessen the tension, an outer, additional row of spiders and rings is added to the created row of the spider/ring margin 54. For example, if the created spider/ring margin 54 is two rings and two spiders long, as shown in
The second garment construction technique, a method to gather a mesh material to reduce the length of the mesh row, is shown in
When using typical fabrics, such as woven, knitted, or non-woven, it is easy to gather the fabric edge by basting along the edge and shortening the thread within the fabric to slightly bunch the fabric evenly, thereby creating a gather. However, mesh material cannot be sewn like typical fabrics. Therefore, it has previously not been possible to gather the mesh edge. The first aspect of the gathering technique is presented to address this problem.
In an example shown in
In the first aspect of the gathering technique, as seen in the bottom view of an enlarged section of mesh
In one preferred aspect of the invention, the user can adjust the edge length to create a tighter or looser gathering 40. In this aspect, the user can self-create a lower or higher valley at the top edge 19 by reducing the length of the filament 45 that is running through the spider legs 21 and supporting the mesh. In this aspect, at least one connection is supplied (preferably within the interior of the dress) to receive the excess portion of the filament 45. In an example, one end of the filament 45 is fixedly attached to a small clasp 49 (
In one aspect, the filament 45 is configured with one secured end and one loose end for adjustment. In this aspect the secured end is fixedly attached to the dress, and the loose end includes a fixedly attached clasp 49 for engagement with one of the clasp-receiving elements 39.
In another aspect the filament 45 is loose on both ends. The wearer has the ability to adjust the length of the edge 19 by connecting a connector (such as clasp 49) on one or both ends of the filament 45 to a clasp-receiving element 39 in a manner that maintains the excess filament in a hidden position within the dress.
In a further aspect, both ends of the filament 45 are fixedly attached by the manufacturer. In this aspect, only the manufacturer is provided with the ability to adjust the length of edge 19.
The filament 45 comprises a long, thin, and flexible fiber, filament, single strand, multi-strand, cord, or the like. The filament 45 may be made of natural or synthetic material. In one aspect of the invention, the filament 45 comprises a synthetic monofilament similar to a fishing line having a tensile strength sufficient to gather and secure the edge 19, as well as to bear the weight of the mesh and the stretching that may occur during wearing. In the preferred aspect of the invention, the filament 45 is transparent or translucent, but in another aspect the filament 45 is colored. The transparent or translucent filament 45 is more discreet, which is appropriate for some applications, but the colored filament 45 may be incorporated into some designs to provide contrast or to add interest based on aesthetic and design considerations.
Thus, the first aspect of the gathering method of the second construction technique provides inconspicuous gathering 40 that adjusts the length of edge 19 without sewing.
The second aspect of the gathering technique, as seen in
Variations of the lacing of the filament 45 through multiple chain connection columns 31 are shown in
The length of the filament 45 may be equal to the length of the chain connection column 31 when initially installed in the fully extended mesh material; but the length of the filament 45 is reduced in length at least slightly when compared to the length of the fully extended mesh to create the stretch mesh. This allows the mesh to be slightly contracted with the spiders and rings somewhat closer together than in the fully extended mesh material. The slightly contracted mesh 42 (along with the length and the flexibility of the filament 45) permit the mesh fabric to be stretched. It is substantially stretchable in the direction that the filament 45 is run, thus providing a two-way stretch mesh material 42 when the filament 45 is laced in parallel chain connection columns 31 only running vertically or horizontally.
The third aspect of the gathering technique provides a stretch mesh material 42 having a four-way stretch by running one or multiple segments of filament 45 both vertically and horizontally through multiple chain connection columns 31.
As in the second aspect, the multiple laced chain connection columns 31 may include the edge chain connection column 31, may include adjacent chain connection columns 31, may include some non-adjacent rows (with one or more intermediate non-laced columns 41), or may include each and every chain connection columns 31. The laced spiders of the multiple chain connection columns 31 are brought nearer each other to form a slightly contracted mesh. Portions of filament 45 running both horizontally and vertically allow the slightly contracted mesh 42 to stretch both horizontally and vertically.
As seen in
The ends of the filaments 45 used in the gathering technique may be secured in various ways, such as by tying a filament to a ring. A preferred method of securing the ends is shown in
The two-way or four-way mesh 42 is shown in an application to a garment in
The third garment construction technique is shown in
In this length-adjustable strap attachment system 70 of the third garment construction technique, the adjustable strap 90 has an outer fashion fabric (which may be mesh material, as illustrated, or fabric material) and an inner lining 93. When there are multiple straps, the length-adjustable strap attachment system 70 may be duplicated on one or more of the multiple straps.
The length-adjustable strap attachment system 70 is used on a strap 90 with at least one end of the strap not fixedly attached to the article carrying the strap or straps. In the example shown in
The length-adjustable strap attachment system 70 for each strap 90 comprises a G-clasp 60, a tether 80, a tether fastening component 85, strap fastening components 95 corresponding to the tether fastening component 85, and a receiving channel 75 fixedly attached to the garment to receive a portion of the G-clasp 60.). In the three aspects disclosed, the tether G-clasp end is engaged with said outer bar. In the first and third aspects, the G-clasp end is fixedly attached to the closed outer bar. In the second aspect, the tether G-clasp end is threaded behind the closed outer bar by being run through the closed area 64; when the tether fastening component 85 attaches to one of the strap fastening components 95 the G-clasp is positioned to achieve a shorter or longer strap.
In the first aspect of the length-adjustable strap attachment system 70 shown in
In the second aspect of the length-adjustable strap attachment system 70 shown in
In the third aspect of the length-adjustable strap attachment system 70 shown in
In the length-adjustable strap attachment system 70, a receiving channel 75 is fixedly attached to the garment (or other article). The receiving channel 75 has an interior tube-like opening that accommodates and receives an open outer bar 69 of the G-clasp 60. The receiving channel 75 may be formed substantially of fabric, metal, or plastic material. In a preferred example, shown in
Best seen in
The tether 80 preferably comprises a piece of fabric that has a width less than the width of the strap 90, so as to remain hidden behind the strap 90 when in use. The edges of the tether 80 are preferably finished or the tether 80 may be formed as a flat tubular structure with the unfinished edges turned inside the tubular structure.
As shown in
In the first aspect of the length-adjustable strap attachment system 70, as shown in
In the second aspect of the length-adjustable strap attachment system 70 shown in
In the third aspect of the length-adjustable strap attachment system 70 shown in
The lining 93 and the tether 80 may be formed of any woven, knitted, or non-woven fabric that can be configured with the strap fastening components 95 and the tether fastening component 85, respectively.
To attach the strap 90 to the dress, the open outer bar 69 of the G-clasp is run through the receiving channel 75 with the edge of the receiving channel 75 entering opening 66. When the channel 75 is fully inserted into the G-clasp 60, the top of the receiving channel 75 falls into the bottom of the open portion 68 and is restrained from exiting the G-clasp 60 by the perpendicularly attached securing projection 67. The G-clasp 60 (with the tether 80) is then held firmly to the receiving channel 75, but the end 99 of the strap 90 can be freely moved to adjust the length of the strap 60. When the desired length is determined, the tether fastening component 85 is engaged with the proper one of the strap fastening components 95 (disposed on the interior lining 93 of the strap) to hold the strap 90 in place at the desired length. In the example shown in
In the example shown in
Though the garment construction techniques have been disclosed separately for ease of discussion, multiple ones are usable together, as is illustrated in
The use of these garment construction techniques will allow mesh material to be used more widely and will allow the creation of more interesting designs using mesh material. Through the use of these garment construction techniques, ruching is created to allow the mesh to adapt to the shapes of the human body; gathering is usable for ruffling or to increase drape or created stretchable mesh; and the length adjustable attachment, disconnection, and reattachment of portions of a garment is enabled.
Since many modifications, variations, and changes in detail can be made to the described preferred embodiments of the invention, it is intended that all matters in the foregoing description and shown in the accompanying drawings be interpreted as illustrative and not in a limiting sense. Thus, the scope of the invention should be determined by the appended claims and their legal equivalents.
This nonprovisional application claims the benefit of co-pending U.S. Provisional Patent Application Ser. No. 62/897,779, filed on Sep. 9, 2019, which is incorporated herein in its entirety.
Number | Date | Country | |
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62897779 | Sep 2019 | US |