Patent Application
20140328787
The present invention generally relates to hair treatment agents comprising selected cationic alkyl oligoglucosides and additional quaternary ammonium compounds as care substances.
There is a need to further improve hair care products and to provide them with additional advantageous properties. In particular, a care complex should be made available that ideally can also be used in combination with oxidizing agents and surfactant agents.
Environmental influences and oxidative hair treatments frequently lead to worsened combability of the dry and wet hair. Furthermore, the gloss and the moisture balance are adversely affected by the aggressed external structure of the keratinic fibers. Another consequence of repeated treatments of the keratinic fibers with surfactants and/or oxidizing agents is a strong regreasing of the keratinic fibers as well as a strong tendency for increased formation of dandruff.
Therefore, it is desirable to reduce the side effects of the environmental impact and of oxidative as well as surfactant hair treatments, preferably already during the oxidative or surfactant hair treatment, but also after the oxidative or surfactant hair treatment, without worsening the efficiency of the oxidative or surfactant cosmetic, in particular in regard to color intensity, color fastness, lightening power or waving, as well as preventing regreasing of the keratinic fibers and the increased formation of dandruff. Moreover, the oxidative treatment in the form of a 2-in-1 product of the keratin-containing fibers, especially human hair, should also be linked in one application step with the application of an effective protection of the fibers against environmental influences, for example protection against UV.
Furthermore, other desirable features and characteristics of the present invention will become apparent from the subsequent detailed description of the invention and the appended claims, taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings and this background of the invention.
A hair treatment agent comprising in a suitable cosmetic carrier—each relative to the total composition of the agent—a) at least one cationic alkyl oligoglucoside in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt % and b) at least one quaternary ammonium compound in a total amount of 0.1 to 10.0 wt % selected from at least one of the groups: esterquats; and/or quaternary imidazolines of Formula I,
in which the R residues independently of each other each stand for a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon residue with a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and A stands for a physiologically acceptable anion; and/or cetrimonium chloride and/or behentrimonium chloride; and/or amines and/or cationized amines; and/or poly(methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium compounds); and/or quaternized cellulose derivatives, in particular Polyquaternium 10 and/or Polyquaternium-24 and/or Polyquatemium-67 and/or Polyquaternium-72; and/or cationized honey; and/or cationic guar derivatives; and/or chitosan; and/or polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid; and/or copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate; and/or vinyl pyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers and/or quaternized polyvinyl alcohol; and/or Polyquaternium 2; and/or Polyquaternium-7; and/or Polyquaternium-16; and/or Polyquaternium 17; and/or Polyquaternium 18; and/or Polyquaternium 27; and/or Polyquaternium-69; and/or Polyquaternium-74.
The following detailed description of the invention is merely exemplary in nature and is not intended to limit the invention or the application and uses of the invention. Furthermore, there is no intention to be bound by any theory presented in the preceding background of the invention or the following detailed description of the invention.
It has now been surprisingly found that the problem is solved to an outstanding degree by a hair treatment agent that comprises an active substance complex comprising at least one cationic alkyl oligoglucoside and at least one additional quaternary ammonium compound as the essential ingredients.
Hair treatment agents that comprise this active substance complex afford an improved finish, an improved gloss, an improved moisture balance as well as protection against oxidative damage as well as increasing the wash resistance of dyed keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, and postpone the formation of dandruff.
In the context of the present invention, hair treatment agents are for example hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair rinses, hair cures, hair masks, hair tonics, hair dye shampoos or their combinations. In particular, the hair conditioning compositions such as hair rinses, hair cures, hair masks, hair oils and hair lotions are understood to include the hair treatment agents according to the invention, both as leave-on, i.e. as products that remain on the hair until the next hair wash, as well as rinse-off, i.e. products that are to be rinsed off again some seconds to some hours after their application.
Combability is inventively understood to mean both the combability of wet fibers as well as the combability of the dry fibers.
The feel is defined by the tactility of a fiber bundle, wherein the person skilled in the art sensorially feels and assesses the parameters fullness and suppleness of the bundle.
Styling is understood to mean the capability to change the shape of a bundle of previously treated keratin-containing fibers, especially human hair. In hair cosmetics, one may also speak of hairstyling.
In the context of the invention, restructuring is understood to mean a reduction of the damage to the keratinic fibers which results from the most varied influences. In this regard for example the reconstitution of the natural strength plays an important role. Restructured fibers are characterized by improved gloss, by an improved feel and by easier combability, In addition they possess improved strength and elasticity. Furthermore, a successful restructuring can be physically substantiated as an increased melting point in comparison to that of damaged fibers. The higher the melting point, the stronger the structure of the fiber.
In the context of the invention, wash fastness is understood to mean the retention of the original coloration in regard to nuance and/or intensity when the keratinic fiber is subjected to the repeated effect of aqueous agents, in particular surfactant-containing agents, such as shampoos.
Moreover, the compositions according to the invention which comprise the active substance complex according to the invention are characterized by a significantly improved state of the keratinic fibers in regard to the moisture balance of the keratinic fibers. Furthermore, the active substance complex according to the invention affords a clear protection of the keratinic fibers against the effects of heat, for example when drying the keratinic fibers with a hair dryer. Protecting the surface of keratinic fibers against the effects of heat is of great importance, particularly when using heated tongs or hair dryers. Finally, it was surprisingly found that the compositions according to the invention lead to a significantly delayed re-soiling of the keratinic fibers. Moreover, the formation of dandruff on the scalp is significantly delayed.
An aqueous cosmetic carrier comprises at least 50 wt % water.
In the context of the present invention, aqueous alcoholic cosmetic carriers are understood to mean aqueous solutions comprising 3 to 70 wt % of a C1-C6 alcohol, in particular, methanol, ethanol or propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, n-pentanol, isopentanols, n-hexanol, isohexanols, glycol, glycerin, 1,2-pentane diol, 1,5-pentane diol, 1,2-hexane diol or 1,6-hexane diol. The agents according to the invention can additionally comprise further organic solvents, such as, for example, methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol or 1,2-propylene glycol. Preference here is given to all water-soluble organic solvents. Water is particularly preferred.
Consequently, a first subject matter of the present invention is a hair treatment agent comprising in a suitable cosmetic carrier—each relative to the total composition of the agent—
a) at least one cationic alkyl oligoglucoside in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt % and
b) at least one quaternary ammonium compound in a total amount of 0.1 to 10.0 wt % selected from at least one of the groups
Employing this combination leads to surprisingly good properties of the treated hair, in particular improved combability, improved gloss and improved elasticity as well as a significantly increased wash-resistance of the dyed hair, and a longer durability with a simultaneous better shaping power in waving processes such as water waving and permanent waving. This is all the more surprising, as this combination of active substances successfully allows at least a reduction in the content of fatty alcohols in conditioning compositions. The term “fatty alcohol” is in fact known to the person skilled in the art; however it will be described in more detail at a later point. In the present compound, a fatty alcohol is understood to mean a linear, branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohol having at least 10 to 30 carbon atoms. The fatty alcohol content can be limited to amounts of less than 2.0 wt %, particularly preferably even to amounts of less than 1.0 wt % and most preferably to amounts of less than 0.5 wt %. The great advantage of a reduced content of fatty alcohol resides in a considerably reduced stress on the keratinic fibers with a concomitant exceptional combability in wet as in dry hair. In addition, these compositions according to the invention show outstanding volume values for the finished hairstyles.
The first mandatory component is a cationic alkyl oligoglucoside, as shown in the following drawing.
In the above depicted formula the R residues, independently of each other, stand for a linear or branched C6 to C30 alkyl residue, a linear or branched C6-C30 alkenyl residue, preferably the R residue stands for a residue R selected from: lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl.
The R1 residues, independently of each other, stand for a linear or branched C6 to C30 alkyl residue, a linear or branched C6-C30 alkenyl residue, preferably the R residue stands for a residue selected from butyl, capryl, caprylyl, octyl, nonyl, decanyl, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl. The R1 residues are particularly preferably the same. Even more preferably the R1 residues are selected from industrial mixtures of fatty alcohol fractions of C6/C8 fatty alcohols, C8/C10 fatty alcohols, C10/C12 fatty alcohols, C12/C14-fatty alcohols, C12/C18 fatty alcohols, and most preferably in this regard those industrial fatty alcohol fractions that are of vegetal origin.
Particularly preferred examples of cationic alkyl oligoglucosides are the compounds with the INCI names Polyquaternium-77, Polyquaternium-78, Polyquaternium-79, Polyquaternium-80, Polyquatemium-81 and Polyquatemium-82. Most highly preferred cationic alkyl oligoglucosides have the trade names Polyquaternium-77, Polyquatemium-81 and Polyquaternium-82.
Such compounds can be obtained under the name Poly Suga® Quat from Colonial Chemical Inc.
The cationic alkyl oligoglucosides are used in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt %, preferably 0.05 to 5.0 wt %, more preferably 0.1 to 3.0 wt % and most preferably in amounts of 0.2 to 2.0 wt %, each relative to the total weight of the composition. More mixtures of cationic alkyl oligoglucosides may, of course, also be inventively used. In this case, a long chain and a short chain cationic alkyl oligoglucoside are each preferably used at the same time.
The second mandatory component of the active substance complex is at least one quaternary ammonium compound in a total amount of 0.1 to 10.0 wt % selected from at least one of the groups
in which the R residues independently of each other each stand for a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon residue with a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and A stands for a physiologically acceptable anion, and/or
Polyquaternium 17 and/or
Esterquats according to the Formula (Tkat1-2) are the first group of the quaternary ammonium compounds.
in which the R1, R2 and R3 residues are each independent of one another and may be the same or different. The R1, R2 and R3 residues mean:
The residue (—X—R4) is comprised at least 1 to 3 times.
Herein X stands for:
1) —(CH2)n- with n=1 to 20, preferably n=1 to 10 and particularly preferably n=1-5, or
2) —(CH2-CHR5-O)n- with n=1 to 200, preferably 1 to 100 and particularly preferably 1 to 50 with R5 meaning hydrogen, methyl or ethyl,
3) a hydroxyalkyl group having one to four carbon atoms which can be branched or unbranched, and which comprises at least one and at most 3 hydroxy groups. Examples of —X— are: —CHOH, —CHCH2OH, —CH2CHOH, —COHCHOH, —CHOHCOH, —CHCHOHCH3, —CH2COHCH3, —CH2CHOHCH2—, —C(CH2OH)2, —CH2CHOHCH2OH, —CH2CH2CHOH, —CH2COHCH3 and hydroxybutyl residues, wherein the bond of —X— to R4 emanates from the free valency of the relevant carbon atom and
R4 stands for:
1) R6-O—CO—, in which R6 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or a cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl residue having 6 to 30 carbon atoms which may comprise at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally may be further oxethylated with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and/or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units, or
2) R7-CO—, in which R7 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or a cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl residue having 6 to 30 carbon atoms which may comprise at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally may be further oxethylated with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and/or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units,
and A stands for a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion and is defined here to also represent all A in the structures described hereinafter. The anion of all the described cationic compounds is selected from the halide ions, fluoride, chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfates of the general Formula RSO3−, in which R means saturated or unsaturated alkyl residues having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or anionic residues of organic acids such as maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate.
Such products are marketed, for example, under the trade names Rewoquat®, Stepantex®, Dehyquart®, Armocare® and Akypoquat®. The products Armocare® VGH-70, Dehyquart® F-75, Dehyquart® C-4046, Dehyquart® L80, Dehyquart® F-30, Dehyquart® AU-35, Rewoquat® WE18, Rewoquat® WE38 DPG, Stepantex VS 90 and Akypoquat® 131 are examples of these esterquats.
Further inventively particularly preferred compounds of the Formula (Tkat1-2) include the cationic betaine esters of the Formula (Tkat1-2.1).
R8 corresponds to the meaning of R7.
The esterquats with the trade names Armocare® VGH-70, as well as Dehyquart® F-75, Dehyquart® L80, Stepantex® VS 90 and Akypoquat® 131 are particularly preferred.
Quaternary imidazoline compounds are another group. The structure of these compounds is shown below in the illustrated Formula (Tkat2).
The R residues independently of each other each stand for a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon residue with a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The preferred compounds of the Formula (Tkat2) each comprise the same hydrocarbon residue for R. The chain length of the R residue is preferably 12 to 21 carbon atoms. A stands for an anion as described above. Particular inventive examples are available for example under the INCI names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-91. According to the invention, Quaternium-91 is most highly preferred.
Cationic surfactants of the Formula (Tkat1-1) are the third group of preferred quaternary ammonium compounds.
In the Formula (Tkat1), R1, R2, R3 and R4 each stand independently of each other for hydrogen, a methyl group, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, for a saturated, branched or unbranched alkyl residue with a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms which can be substituted with one or more hydroxy groups. A stands for a physiologically acceptable anion, for example halides such as chloride or bromide as well as methosulfates.
Exemplary compounds of the Formula (Tkat1) are lauryltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, dicetyldimethylammonium chloride, tricetylmethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide, behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate. Compounds with at least one cetyl or behenyl residue in the molecule are particularly preferred. Cetyltrimethylammonium and behenyltrimethylammonium salts are most highly preferred, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and behenyltrimethylammonium chloride being the most preferred of all.
The last group of quaternary ammonium compounds are amines and/or cationized amines, in particular amido amines and/or cationized amido amines. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the agents according to the invention comprise, in addition to at least one of the further quaternary ammonium compounds, at least one amine and/or cationized amine, in particular an amido amine and/or a cationized amido amine with the following structural formulas:
R1-NH—(CH2)n—N+R2R3R4A (Tkat3)
in which R1 can be an acyl or alkyl residue having 6 to 30 atoms which can be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, and wherein the acyl residue and/or the alkyl residue can comprise at least one OH group, and
R2, R3 and R4 independently of each other can be
1) hydrogen or
2) an alkyl residue having 1 to 4 carbon atoms which can be the same or different, saturated or unsaturated, and
3) a branched or unbranched hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms with at least one and at most three hydroxy groups, for example —CH2OH, —CH2CH2OH, —CHOHCHOH, —CH2CHOHCH3, —CH(CH2OH)2, —COH(CH2OH)2, —CH2CHOHCH2OH, —CH2CH2CH2OH and hydroxybutyl residues, and
A is an anion as described above and
n means a whole number between 1 and 10.
A preferred composition is one, in which the amine and/or the quaternized amine according to the general Formula (Tkat3) is an amido amine and/or a quaternized amido amine, in which R1 means a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated acyl residue having 6 to 30 carbon atoms which can comprise at least one OH group. In this regard, a fatty acid residue from oils and waxes, in particular from naturally occurring oils and waxes, is preferred. Lanolin, beeswax or candellila waxes are examples of these.
Those amido amines and/or quaternized amido amines are also preferred in which R2, R3 and/or R4 in the Formula (Tkat3) mean a residue according to the general Formula CH2CH2OR5, in which R5 can mean alkyl residues having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, hydroxyethyl or hydrogen. The preferred value of n in the general Formula (Tkat8) is a whole number between 2 and 5.
The alkylamido amines can both be present as such and be converted by protonation in appropriately acidic solution into a quaternary compound in the composition. The cationic alkylamido amines are inventively preferred.
Examples of such commercial products according to the invention are Witcamine® 100, Incromine® BB, Mackine® 401 and other Mackine® types, Adogen® S18V, and as the permanently cationic amido amines: Rewoquat® RTM 50, Empigen® CSC, Swanol® Lanoquat DES-50, Rewoquat® UTM 50, Schercoquat® BAS, Lexquat® AMG-BEO, or Incroquat® Behenyl HE.
All of the abovementioned quaternary ammonium compounds are cationic surfactants and can be used individually or together in any combination, wherein amounts between 0.01 to 10 wt %, preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 7.5 wt % and quite particularly preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 5.0 wt % are comprised. In this regard, the best results of all are obtained with amounts of 0.1 to 3.0 wt %, each relative to the total composition of the relevant agent. These amounts are also not to fall short or to be exceeded when mixtures of the cationic surfactants are used.
Beside the cationic surfactants, polymeric compounds are to be counted among the quaternary ammonium compounds. From the plethora of these possible ingredients, the cationic and/or amphoteric polymers in the classes described below are preferred.
The cationic and/or amphoteric polymers can be homopolymers or copolymers or polymers based on naturally occurring polymers, wherein the quaternary nitrogen groups are comprised either in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more of the monomers. The ammonium group-containing monomers can be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, radical polymerizable compounds that carry at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium substituted vinyl monomers, such as for example trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary vinylammonium monomers including cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups, such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, e.g. alkylvinylimidazolium, alkylvinylpyridinium, or alkylvinylpyrrolidone salts. The alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups, such as for example C1 to C7 alkyl groups, particularly preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
The ammonium group-containing monomers can be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Exemplary suitable comonomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinyl caprolactone, vinyl caprolactam, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl esters, e.g. vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, particularly preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
A most highly preferred polymer is commercially available under the name Polyquatemium-74.
A particularly suitable homopolymer is the optionally crosslinked poly(methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. Such products are commercially available for example under the trade names Rheocare® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen® CR (3V Sigma).
The homopolymer is preferably employed in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion. Such polymer dispersions are commercially available under the trade names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96.
An amphiphilic, cationic polymer that contains at least one structural unit of Formula (I), at least one structural unit of Formula (II), at least one structural unit of Formula (III-8) and at least one structural unit of Formula (IV-8) is quite particularly preferably comprised in the agent according to the invention,
in which R7 stands for octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl (lauryl), tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl).
A quite particularly preferred cationic polymer according to the invention is the copolymer of N-vinyl pyrrolidone, N-vinyl caprolactam, N-(3-dimethylaminopropyl)methacrylamide and 3-(methacryloylamino)propyl-lauryl-dimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Polyquatemium-69), marketed for example by the ISP company under the trade name AquaStyle® 300 (28-32 wt. % active substance in an ethanol-water mixture, molecular weight 350 000).
Suitable cationic polymers derived from naturally occurring polymers are cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Chitosan and chitosan derivatives are also suitable. Cationic polysaccharides have the general Formula G-O—B—N+RaRbRcA−
G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch- or cellulose-anhydroglucose;
B is a divalent linking group, for example alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or hydroxyalkylene;
Ra, Rb and Rc independently of each other are alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl, each having up to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the total number of the carbon atoms in Ra, Rb and Rc is preferably 20 at most;
A− is a typical counter anion and is preferably chloride.
Cationic, i.e. quaternized celluloses, are commercially available with different degrees of substitution, cationic charge density, nitrogen content and molecular weights. For example, Polyquaternium-67 is commercially available under the trade names Polymer® SL or Polymer® SK (Amerchol). Another most highly preferred cellulose is commercially available from Croda under the trade name Mirustyle® CP. This is a Trimonium and Cocodimonium Hydroxyethylcellulose as a derivatized cellulose with the INCI name Polyquaternium-72. Polyquaternium-72 can be used in solid form and also in pre-dissolved form in aqueous solution.
Additional cationic celluloses are available under the names Polymer JR® 400 (Amerchol, INCI name Polyquaternium-10) and Polymer Quatrisoft® LM-200 (Amerchol, INCI name Polyquaternium-24). Other commercial products are the compounds Celquat® H 100 and Celquat® L 200. Particularly preferred cationic celluloses are Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67 and Polyquaternium-72.
Suitable cationic guar derivatives are marketed under the trade name Jaguar® and have the INCI name Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride. Other particularly suitable cationic guar derivatives are also commercially available from Hercules under the trade name N-Hance®. Other cationic guar derivatives are commercially available from Cognis under the trade name Cosmedia®. A preferred cationic guar derivative is the commercial product AquaCat® of Hercules. This raw material concerns an already pre-dissolved cationic guar derivative. The cationic guar derivatives are inventively preferred.
A suitable chitosan is available for example from Kyowa Oil & Fat, Japan, under the trade name Flonac®. A preferred chitosan salt is chitosonium pyrrolidone carboxylate, which is marketed for example under the name Kytamer® PC from Amerchol, USA. Other chitosan derivatives are freely available under the trade names Hydagen® CMF, Hydagen® HCMF and Chitolam® NB/101.
Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example
Particularly preferred amphoteric polymers are copolymers of at least one monomer (Mono1) or (Mono2) with the monomer (Mono3), in particular copolymers of the monomers (Mono2) and (Mono3). Inventively quite particularly preferably used amphoteric polymers are copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylic acid. These copolymers are marketed under the INCI name Polyquaternium-22 inter alia with the trade name Merquat® 280 (Nalco).
Inventively quite particularly preferably used amphoteric polymers based on a comonomer (Mono4) are terpolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride, acrylamide and acrylic acid. These copolymers are marketed under the INCI name Polyquaternium-39 inter alia with the trade name Merquat® Plus 3330 (Nalco).
According to the invention, the amphoteric polymers can be both added directly as well as in salt form, the latter being obtained by neutralization of the polymer with an alkali metal hydroxide, for example.
The polymers described so far represent only a part of the inventively useable polymers. In order not to have to describe all inventively suitable cationic and/or amphoteric polymers in addition to their composition, the INCI Declarations of the inventively preferred polymers are listed as a summary. The inventively preferred polymers carry the INCI name: Polyquaternium-28, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquatemium-33, Polyquaternium-34, Polyquatemium-35, Polyquatemium-41, Polyquaternium-42, Polyquatemium-44, Polyquaternium-47, Polyquatemium-55, Polyquaternium-67, Polyquaternium-68, Polyquatemium-69, Polyquaternium-72, Polyquaternium-74, Polyquaternium-76, Polyquaternium-86, Polyquaternium-89 and Polyquaternium-95 as well as their mixtures.
The abovementioned cationic polymers can be used individually or together in any combination, wherein amounts between 0.01 to 10 wt %, preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 7.5 wt % and quite particularly preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 5.0 wt % are comprised. In this regard, the best results of all are obtained with amounts of 0.1 to 3.0 wt %, each relative to the total composition of the relevant agent.
Furthermore, it is inventively most highly preferred when the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactant. These ingredients in the compositions according to the invention potentially make considerable contributions to stabilize the viscosity and the shelf stability.
Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example the cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in each of the alkyl or acyl groups, as well as cocoacylaminoethyl hydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative, known under the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
Ampholytic surfactants (Tampho) are understood to mean those surface-active compounds that are capable of forming inner salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkyl glycines, N-alkylamino propionic acids, N-alkylamino butyric acids, N-alkylimino dipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-alkyl taurines, N-alkyl sarcosines, 2-alkylamino propionic acids and alkylamino acetic acids, each with about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkylamido betaines, amino propionates, amino glycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfo betaines. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoa alkylamino propionate, cocoa acylaminoethylamino propionate and C12-C18 acyl sarcosine. A particularly preferred compound is Coco Betaine.
These ingredients are used in amounts of 0.01 to 5.0 wt % based on the total composition of the agent. Quantities of 0.05 to 5.0 wt % are preferred. Quantities of 0.1 to 5.0 wt % are particularly preferred and quantities of 0.3 to 3.0 wt are most highly preferred.
Consequently, a second subject matter of the present invention is a hair treatment agent comprising in a suitable cosmetic carrier—each relative to the total composition of the agent—
a) at least one cationic alkyl oligoglucoside in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt %, and
b) at least one quaternary ammonium compound in a total amount of 0.1 to 10.0 wt % selected from at least one of the groups
Furthermore, all usual ingredients in cosmetic compositions can be added to this most highly preferred matrix of ingredients.
Silicones, due to their numerous positive properties, are indeed still used today in cosmetic compositions, but are coming under increasing criticism. Thus, the formulation of stable emulsions is often made difficult by silicones that in addition to their positive characteristics also lead to stresses on the keratinic fibers. Consequently, attempts are increasingly made to avoid the use of this group of ingredients. In fact, silicones can be used in the compositions according to the invention, but surprisingly they do not afford any further increase in the effectiveness of the compositions according to the invention. Accordingly, it is inventively possible and preferred to forego the use of silicones. Nevertheless, should silicones be used, then the following silicones may be employed without any adverse effect at least on the activity of the compositions according to the invention.
Cationic amino silicones having at least three terminal amino-functional groups have only recently been commercially available. These cationic silicone polymers are characterized in that they possess a silicone backbone as well as optionally a polyether moiety and additionally at least one moiety with an ammonium structure. In the context of the present invention, the exemplary preferred cationic silicone polymers are in particular the compounds with the INCI names: Silicone Quaternium-1, Silicone Quaternium-2, Silicone Quatemium-3, Silicone Quaternium-4, Silicone Quaternium-5, Silicone Quaternium-6, Silicone Quatemium-7, Silicone Quaternium-8, Silicone Quaternium-9, Silicone Quaternium-10, Silicone Quatemium-11, Silicone Quatemium-12, Silicone Quatemium-15, Silicone Quatemium-16, Silicone Quatemium-17, Silicone Quatemium-18, Silicone Quaternium-20, Silicone Quatemium-21, Silicone Quaternium-22 as well as Silicone Quaternium-2 Panthenol Succinate and Silicone Quaternium-16/glycidyl dimethicone crosspolymer. In particular, Silicone Quatemium-22 is the most preferred. This raw material is marketed for example by Evonik under the trade name Abil® T-Quat 60.
The cationic amino-functional silicone polymers are comprised in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt %, preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 5 wt % and quite particularly preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt %. In this regard, the best results of all are obtained with amounts of 0.1 to 2.5 wt %, each relative to the total composition of the relevant agent.
Furthermore, the compositions according to the invention may also comprise additional silicones instead of or in addition to the abovementioned amino-functional silicones. These silicones are preferably at least one silicone polymer selected from the group of the Dimethiconols and/or from the group of the amino-functional silicones and/or from the group of the Dimethicones and/or from the group of the Cyclomethicones.
The Dimethicones according to the invention can be linear as well as branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear Dimethicones can be represented by the following structural formula (Si1):
(SiR13)—O—(SiR22—O—)x—(SiR13) (Si1)
Branched Dimethicones can be represented by the following structural Formula (Si1.1):
The residues R1 and R2 each stand independently of one another for hydrogen, a methyl residue, a C2 to C30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon residue, a phenyl residue and/or an aryl residue. The numbers x, y and z are whole numbers and each, independently of each other, range from 0 to 50 000. The molecular weights of the Dimethicones lie between 1000 Da and 10 000 000 Da. The viscosities range between 100 and 10 000 000 cPs, measured at 25° C. with a glass capillary viscosimeter following the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 Jul. 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1000 and 5 000 000 cPs, quite particularly preferred viscosities are between 10 000 and 3 000 000 cPs. The most preferred range is between 50 000 and 2 000 000 cPs. Most highly preferred viscosities are in the region of about 60 000 cPs. As an example, reference may be made to the product “Dow Corning 200 with 60 000 cSt”.
Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one silicone of the Formula (Si1.2)
(CH3)3Si—[O—Si(CH3)2]x—O—Si(CH3)3 (Si1.2),
in which x stands for a number from 0 to 100, advantageously from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and especially 0 to 10.
The Dimethicones (Si1) are comprised in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt %, preferably 0.01 to 8 wt %, particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt % and in particular 0.1 to 5 wt %, relative to the total composition.
Finally, the silicone compounds are understood to include the Dimethiconols (Si8). The Dimethiconols according to the invention can be linear as well as branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear Dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formula (Si8-I):
(SiOHR12)—O—(SiR22—O—)x—(SiOHR12) (Si8-I)
Branched Dimethiconols can be represented by the structural formula (Si8-II):
The residues R1 and R2 each stand independently of one another for hydrogen, a methyl residue, a C2 to C30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon residue, a phenyl residue and/or an aryl residue. The numbers x, y and z are whole numbers and each, independently of each other, range from 0 to 50 000. The molecular weights of the Dimethiconols lie between 1000 Da and 10 000 000 Da. The viscosities range between 100 and 10 000 000 cPs, measured at 25° C. with a glass capillary viscosimeter following the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 Jul. 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1000 and 5 000 000 cPs, quite particularly preferred viscosities are between 10 000 and 3 000 000 cPs. The most preferred range is between 50 000 and 2 000 000 cPs.
The following commercial products are given as examples of such products: Dow Corning 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9026 Fluid, Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend, SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all four from GE Silicones), Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 3112 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all from Wacker-Chemie GmbH). The Dimethiconols (Si8) are comprised in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt %, preferably 0.01 to 8 wt %, particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt % and in particular 0.1 to 5 wt % of Dimethiconol, relative to the composition.
Particularly preferred agents according to the invention comprise one or more amino-functional silicones. Such silicones can be described, for example, by the Formula (Si-2)
M(RaQbSiO(4-a-b)/2)x(RcSiO(4-c)/2)yM (Si-2)
wherein, in the above formula
In the Formula (Si-2), a assumes values in the range 0 to 2, b assumes values in the range 2 to 3, a+b is less than or equal to 3, and c is a number in the range 1 to 3. Cationic silicone oils that are inventively suitable are for example the commercially available products Dow Corning (DC) 929 Emulsion, DC 2-2078, DC 5-7113, SM-2059 (General Electric) and SLM-55067 (Wacker).
Particularly preferred inventive agents are characterized in that they comprise at least one amino-functional silicone of the Formula (Si3-a)
in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m+n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, wherein n preferably assumes values of 0 to 1999 and particularly from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values of 1 to 2000, particularly 1 to 10.
These silicones are called Trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration and are available for example under the name Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized Trimethylsilylamodimethicone).
Particularly preferred inventive agents are also those that comprise at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-3b)
in which
In accordance with the INCI Declaration, these silicones are called amodimethicones or functionalized amodimethicones, such as for example bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicone (available for example as the commercial product: DC 8500 from Dow Corning), Trideceth-9 PG-amodimethicone (available as the commercial product Silcare Silicone SEA from Clariant). Suitable diquaternary silicones are selected from compounds of the general Formula (Si3c)
[R1R2R3N+-A-SiR7R8—(O—SiR9R10)n—O—SiR11R12-A-N+R4R5R6]2X− (Si3c)
wherein the R1 to R6 residues independently of each other mean C1 to C22 alkyl residues that can comprise hydroxy groups and wherein preferably at least one of the residues possesses at least 8 carbon atoms and the other residues possess 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
the R7 to R12 residues independently of each other are the same or different and mean C1 to C10 alkyl or phenyl, A means a divalent organic linking group,
n is a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 10 to 120, particularly preferably from 10 to 40, and X− is an anion.
The divalent linking group is preferably a C1 to C12 alkylene or alkoxyalkylene group that can be substituted with one or more hydroxy groups. The —(CH2)3—O—CH2—CH(OH)—CH2— group is particularly preferred.
The anion X− can be a halide ion, an acetate, an organic carboxylate or a compound of the general Formula RSO3−, in which R means a C1 to C4 alkyl residue.
A preferred diquaternary silicone has the general Formula (Si3d)
[RN+Me2-A-(SiMe2O)n—SiMe2-A-N+Me2R]2CH3COO− (Si3d),
wherein A is the group —(CH2)3—O—CH2—CH(OH)—CH2—,
R is an alkyl residue having at least 8 carbon atoms and n is a number from 10 to 120.
Suitable silicone polymers having two terminal, quaternary ammonium groups are known under the INCI name Quaternium-80. This refers to dimethylsiloxanes having two terminal trialkylammonium groups. Such diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes are marketed by Evonik under the trade names Abil® Quat 3270, 3272 and 3474.
Inventively preferred hair treatment agents are characterized in that they comprise, based on their weight, 0.01 to 10 wt %, preferably 0.1 to 8 wt %, particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt % and particularly 0.2 to 5 wt % aminofunctional silicone(s) and/or diquaternary silicone.
Polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds are another amino-functional silicone according to the invention. The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds can be obtained for example under the trade name Baysilone® from GE Bayer Silicones. In this regard, the products with the trade names Baysilone TP 3911, SME 253 and SFE 839 are preferred. The use of Baysilone TP 3911 is quite particularly preferred as the active component of the composition according to the invention. The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds are used in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of 0.01 to 10 wt %, preferably 0.01 to 7.5 wt %, particularly preferably 0.01 to 5.0 wt %, quite particularly preferably 0.05 to 2.5 wt % each relative to the total composition.
The addition of cyclic dimethicones, designated by INCI as cyclomethicones, is also inventively preferred. Here, preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention comprise at least one silicone of the Formula (Si-4)
in which x stands for a number from 3 to 200, advantageously from 3 to 10, more preferably from 3 to 7 and especially 3, 4, 5 or 6.
Likewise inventively preferred agents are characterized in that they comprise at least one silicone of the Formula (Si-5)
R3Si—[O—SiR2]x—(CH2)n—[O—SiR2]y—O—SiR3 (Si-5),
in which R stands for the same or different residues from the group H, phenyl, benzyl, —CH2—CH(CH3)Ph, the C1-20 alkyl residues, preferably —CH3, —CH2CH3, —CH2CH2CH3, —CH(CH3)2, —CH2CH2CH2H3, —CH2CH(CH3)2, —CH(CH3)CH2CH3, —C(CH3)3, x and y stand for a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and especially 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, and n stands for a number from 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8 and particularly for 2, 3, 4, 5, 6.
Besides the dimethicones, dimethiconols, amodimethicones and/or cyclomethicones according to the invention, the compositions according to the invention can comprise water-soluble silicones as additional silicones.
Suitable hydrophilic silicones are selected for example from the compounds of the Formulas (Si-6) and/or (Si-7). Particularly preferred water-soluble surfactants based on silicone are selected from the group of the dimethicon copolyols that are preferably alkoxylated, especially polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated.
Dimethicon copolyols are understood to mean inventively preferred polyoxyalkylene-modified dimethylpolysiloxanes of the general Formulas (Si-6) or (Si-7):
in which the R residue stands for a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group with 1 to 12 carbon atoms, an alkoxy group with 1 to 12 carbon atoms or a hydroxy group, the R′ and R″ residues mean alkyl groups with 1 to 12 carbon atoms, x stands for a whole number from 1 to 100, preferably from 20 to 30, y stands for a whole number from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10 and a and b stand for whole numbers from 0 to 50, preferably from 10 to 30.
In the context of the invention, particularly preferred dimethicon copolyols are for example the commercially marketed products under the trade names SILWET® (Union Carbide Corporation) and DOW CORNING. Inventively particularly preferred dimethicon copolyols are Dow Corning 190 and Dow Corning 193.
The dimethicon copolyols are comprised in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt %, preferably 0.01 to 8 wt %, particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt % and in particular 0.1 to 5 wt % of dimethicon copolyol, relative to the composition.
Ester oils can be particularly preferably comprised as the oily body in active substance combinations according to the invention. The ester oils are defined as follows:
Ester oils are understood to mean the esters of C6-C30 fatty acids with C2-C30 fatty alcohols. The monoesters of fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of the fatty acid moieties in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidonic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid as well as their industrial mixtures. Examples of the fatty alcohol moieties in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, capronyl alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol as well as their industrial mixtures. According to the invention, isopropyl myristate (Rilanit® IPM), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft® 24), stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerin tricaprylate, cocofatty alcohol caprinate/-caprylate (Cetiol® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit® IPP), oleyl oleate (Cetiol®), lauric acid hexyl ester (Cetiol® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol® V) are particularly preferred.
The ester oils can of course also be alkoxylated with ethylene oxide, propylene oxide or mixtures of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide. In this regard, the alkoxylation can be on the fatty alcohol moiety as well as on the fatty acid moiety as well as on both parts of the ester oils. However, it is inventively preferred if the fatty alcohol was first alkoxylated and then esterified with fatty acid. These compounds are generally illustrated in the Formula (D4-II).
R1 stands here for a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, cyclic saturated cyclic unsaturated acyl residue having 6 to 30 carbon atoms,
AO stands for ethylene oxide, propylene oxide or butylene oxide,
X stands for a number between 1 and 200, preferably 1 and 100, particularly preferably between 1 and 50, quite particularly preferably between 1 and 20, highly preferably between 1 and 10 and most preferably between 1 and 5,
R2 stands here for a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, cyclic saturated cyclic unsaturated alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, phenyl or benzyl residue having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples of the fatty acid moieties employed as the R1 residue in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidonic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid as well as their industrial mixtures. Examples of the fatty alcohol moieties in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, capronyl alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linalyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol as well as their industrial mixtures. An inventively particularly preferred ester oil is available for example under the INCI name PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate.
Additionally understood as ester oils are:
The ester oils are used in the agents according to the invention in an amount of 0.01 to 20 wt %, preferably 0.01 to 10.0 wt %, particularly preferably 0.01 to 7.5 wt %, most highly preferably 0.1 to 5.0 wt %. Of course it is inventively possible to also use a plurality of ester oils at the same time.
Other oily bodies according to the invention are:
Exemplary natural oils include amaranth seed oil, apricot stone oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cotton seed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, pomegranate stone oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderberry seed oil, blackcurrent seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, maize seed oil, almond oil, marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, rape seed oil, rice oil, Hippophae Rhamnoides oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soya oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, walnut oil or wild rose oil.
Of course the hair treatment agents according to the invention also comprise, besides the active substance combination according to the invention, additional ingredients that are usual in cosmetic compositions. The choice of these ingredients is generally guided according to the intended use of the hair treatment agent. In the case of a shampoo, additional surface-active substances are comprised, for example. In the case of hair cures, additional cationic compounds and additional care products are optionally comprised. In many cases the compositions comprise at least one surface-active substance, wherein, in principle, not only anionic, but also zwitterionic, ampholytic, non-ionic and cationic surface-active substances are suitable. The choice of the surface active substances depends on the type of the agent.
Suitable anionic surfactants (Tanion) for the inventive preparations are all anionic surface-active materials that are suitable for use on the human body. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are:
R1(OCH2CH2)n—O—(PO—OX)—OR2,
R8OC—(OCH2CH2)x—OCH2—[CHO(CH2CH2O)yH]—CH2O(CH2CH2O)z—SO3X,
in which R8CO stands for a linear or branched acyl residue having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, the sum of x, y and z is 0 or stands for numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X stands for an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal. In the context of the invention, typical examples of suitable monoglyceride ether sulfates are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, cocoa fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride as well as their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preferably, monoglyceride sulfates are employed, in which R8CO stands for a linear acyl residue having 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
In so far as the mild anionic surfactants comprise polyglycol ether chains, the latter quite particularly preferably have a narrow homolog distribution. Furthermore, in the case of mild anionic surfactants with polyglycol ether units, the number of the glycol ether groups is preferably 1 to 20, preferably 2 to 15, particularly preferably 2 to 12. Particularly mild anionic surfactants with polyglycol ether groups without restricted homolog distribution can also be obtained for example if on the one hand the number of the polyglycol ether groups is 4 to 12 and Zn or Mg ions are selected as the counter ion. An example of this is the commercial product Texapon® ASV.
Non-ionic surfactants (Tnio) are for example
R1CO—(OCH2CHR2)wOR3 (Tnio-1)
in which R1CO stands for a linear or branched, saturated and/or unsaturated acyl residue having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R2 for hydrogen or methyl, R3 for linear or branched alkyl residues having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w for numbers from 1 to 20,
The surfactants (T) are employed in quantities of 0.05 to 45 wt %, preferably 0.1 to 30 wt % and quite particularly preferably from 0.5-25 wt %, based on the total inventively used agent.
Exemplary inventively usable emulsifiers are
The inventive agents preferably comprise the emulsifiers in quantities of 0.1 to 25 wt %, particularly 0.5-15 wt %, based on the total composition.
The compositions according to the invention particularly preferably comprise fats as the additional active principle. Fats are understood to mean fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes that can exist both in solid form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.
Linear and/or branched, saturated and/or unsaturated fatty acids having 6-30 carbon atoms can be employed as the fatty acids (Fatac). Fatty acids having 10-22 carbon atoms are preferred. Among these may be cited the isostearic acids, such as the commercial products Emersol® 871 and Emersol® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor® IP 95, as well as all other fatty acids commercialized under the trade names Edenor® (Cognis). Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidonic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid as well as their industrial mixtures. Usually, the fatty acid fractions obtainable from coconut oil and palm oil are particularly preferred; in general, the addition of stearic acid is particularly preferred.
The addition quantity ranges from 0.1-15 wt %, based on the total agent. The quantity preferably ranges from 0.5-10 wt %, wherein quantities of 1-5 wt % can be quite particularly advantageous.
As fatty alcohols (Fatal), saturated, mono or polyunsaturated, branched or linear fatty alcohols having C6 to C30, preferably C10 to C22 and quite particularly preferably C12 to C22 carbon atoms can be added. In the scope of the invention, decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, capryl alcohol, caprinic alcohol, linalyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, as well as the Guerbet alcohols can be added, this listing being intended as exemplary and not limiting in character. However, the fatty alcohols are preferably derived from naturally occurring fatty acids, usually obtained by reducing the fatty acid esters. Those fatty alcohol fractions that represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols are likewise inventively employable. Such substances can be bought, for example, under the trade names Stenol®, e.g. Stenol® 1618 or Lanette®, e.g. Lanette® O or Lorol®, e.g. Lorol® C8, Lorol® C14, Lorol® C18, Lorol® C8-18, HD-Ocenol®, Crodacol®, e.g. Crodacol® CS, Novol®, Eutanol® G, Guerbitol® 16, Guerbitol® 18, Guerbitol® 20, Isofol® 12, Isofol® 16, Isofol® 24, Isofol® 36, Isocarb® 12, Isocarb® 16 or Isocarb® 24. Of course, wool wax alcohols such as those that are commercially available for example, under the trade names Corona®, White Swan®, Coronet® or Fluilan® can also be inventively added. The fatty alcohols are added in quantities of 0.1-30 wt %, based on the total preparation, preferably in quantities of 0.1-20 wt %.
According to the invention, solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnuba wax, bean wax, candelilla wax, ozocerite, ceresine, sperm wax, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as for example apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP can be added as the natural or synthetic waxes. These types of waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.
The added quantities are 0.1 to 50% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably 0.1 to 20% by weight and particularly preferably 0.1 to 15% by weight, based on the total agent.
The total amount of oil and fat components in the inventive agents is normally 0.5-75 wt %, based on the total agent. Quantities of 0.5 to 35 wt % are inventively preferred.
Another inventive synergistic active principle in the compositions according to the invention with the active principle complex are protein hydrolysates and/or their derivatives.
According to the invention, the added protein hydrolysates can be of both vegetal as well as animal or marine or synthetic origin.
Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, protein hydrolysates of elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein, which can also be present in the form of their salts. Such products are marketed, for example, under the trade names Dehylan® (Cognis), Promois® (Interorgana), Collapuron® (Cognis), Nutrilan® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein® (Inolex) and Kerasol® (Croda).
Furthermore, inventively preferred vegetal protein hydrolyzates are for example soya, almond, pea, potato, moringa and wheat protein hydrolyzates. Such products are available, for example, under the trade names Gluadin® (Cognis), DiaMin® (Diamalt), Lexein® (Inolex) Hydrosoy® (Croda), Hydrolupin® (Croda), Hydrosesame® (Croda), Hydrotritium® (Croda), Crotein® (Croda) and Puricare® LS 9658 from Laboratoires Serobiologiques.
Additional inventively preferred protein hydrolysates are of marine origin. These include for example collagen hydrolysates of fish or algae as well as protein hydrolysates of mussels or pearl hydrolysates. Examples of pearl extracts according to the invention are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BG® or Crodarom® Pearl.
In addition, cationized protein hydrolysates are considered as protein hydrolysates, wherein the base protein hydrolysate can originate from animals, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from plants, for example from wheat, maize, rice, potatoes, soya or almonds, from marine life, for example from fish collagen or algae, or from biotechnologically obtained protein hydrolysates. Typical examples of inventive cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives are the commercially available products and those cited under the INCI names in the “International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook”, (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, N. W., Suite 300, Washington, D.C. 20036-4702).
The compositions comprise the protein hydrolysates in concentrations of 0.001 wt % to 20 wt %, preferably 0.05 wt. % up to 15 wt % and quite particularly preferably in amounts of 0.05 wt % up to 5 wt %.
Vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors are a further preferred group of ingredients of the inventive compositions with the inventive active principle complex. Here, vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors which are assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H are particularly preferred.
The group of substances designated as vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A1) as well as 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2). β-Carotene is the provitamin of retinol. Examples of suitable vitamin A components according to the invention are vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol as well as its esters such as the palmitate and acetate. The agents according to the invention preferably comprise the vitamin A components in amounts of 0.05 to 1 wt %, based on the total preparation.
The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include inter alia:
Vitamin B1 (thiamine)
Vitamin B2 (riboflavin)
Vitamin B3. The compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often included under this designation. According to the invention, nicotinamide is preferred and is comprised in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05 to 1 wt %, based on the total agent.
Vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). In the context of this group, panthenol and/or pantolactone is preferably used. Useable derivatives of panthenol according to the invention are especially the esters and ethers of panthenol as well as cationically derivatized panthenols. Specific representatives are for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate as well as cationic panthenol derivatives. In the present invention, pantothenic acid is preferably employed as a derivative in the form of the stabilized calcium salt and sodium salt (Ca pantothenate, Na pantothenate).
Vitamin B6 (pyridoxine as well as pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).
The cited compounds of the vitamin B type, in particular vitamin B3, B5 and B6, are preferably comprised in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt %, based on the total agent. Quantities of 0.1 to 5 wt % are particularly preferred.
Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is preferably added to the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt %, based on the total agent. Its use in the form of the palmitate ester, the glucosides or phosphates can be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols can also be preferred.
Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, among which are particularly included the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are used in the agents according to the invention preferably comprised in amounts of 0.05-1 wt %, based on the total agent.
Vitamin F. The term “vitamin F” is usually taken to mean essential fatty acids, particularly linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
Vitamin H. The compound (3aS,4S,6aR)-2-oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]imidazole-4-valeric acid denotes Vitamin H, for which the trivial name biotin has become accepted. The agents according to the invention preferably comprise biotin in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0 wt %, particularly in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt %.
The compositions according to the invention preferably comprise vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from the groups A, B, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinamide and biotin are especially preferred.
A particularly preferred group of ingredients in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are the betaines cited below: carnitine, carnitine tartrate, carnitine magnesium citrate, acetyl carnitine, betalaine, 1,1-dimethylproline, choline, choline chloride, choline bitartrate, choline dihydrogen citrate and the compound N,N,N-trimethylglycine cited in the literature as a betaine.
In another inventively preferred embodiment, the inventive compositions comprise bioquinones. Suitable bioquinones in the inventive agents are understood to include one or more ubiquinones and/or plastoquinones. The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the following formula:
The coenzyme Q-10 is most preferred here.
Preferred compositions according to the invention comprise purine and/or purine derivatives in narrow quantitative ranges. Inventively preferred cosmetics comprise, based on their weight, 0.001 to 2.5 wt. %, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt. %, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt. % and particularly 0.01 to 0.1 wt. % purine and/or purine derivative(s). Inventively preferred cosmetic agents are characterized in that they comprise purine, adenine, guanine, uric acid, hypoxanthine, 6-purinethiol, 6-thioguanine, xanthin, caffein, theobromine or theophylline Caffein is most preferred in hair cosmetic preparations.
In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic agent comprises ectoine ((S)-2-methyl-1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidine carboxylic acid).
Agents that comprise, based on their weight, 0.00001 to 10.0 wt %, preferably 0.0001 to 5.0 wt % and particularly 0.001 to 3 wt % of the active principles from the group made up of carnitine, coenzyme Q-10, ectoine, a vitamin of the B series, a purine and their derivatives or physiologically representative salts are inventively particularly preferred.
A quite particularly preferred care additive in the hair treatment agents according to the invention is taurine. Taurine is understood to mean exclusively 2-aminoethane sulfonic acid and by a derivative the explicitly cited derivatives of taurine. The derivatives of taurine are understood to mean N-monomethyltaurine, N,N-dimethyltaurine, taurine lysylate, taurine tartrate, taurine ornithate, lysyltaurine and ornithyltaurine.
Particularly preferred agents according to the invention comprise, based on their weight, 0.0001 to 10.0 wt %, preferably 0.0005 to 5.0 wt %, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2.0 wt % and particularly 0.001 to 1.0 wt % of taurine and/or a derivative of taurine. Moreover, the action of the compositions according to the invention can be further augmented by a 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J). The sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts are preferred, in which the ammonium ion carries one to three C1 to C4 alkyl groups besides hydrogen. The sodium salt is quite particularly preferred. The quantities employed in the inventive agents preferably range from 0.05 to 10 wt %, based on the total composition, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5, and particularly 0.1 to 3 wt %.
The use of plant extracts as the care substances allows the hair treatment agents according to the invention to be formulated particularly in harmony with nature and nevertheless very effectively in regard to their care performance. The otherwise usual preservatives can even be optionally obviated. Above all the inventively preferred extracts are from green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, hamamelis, hops, henna, camomile, burdock root, field horsetail, hawthorn, linden flowers, almonds, aloe vera, spruce needles, horse chestnut, sandal wood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, malva, lady's smock, common yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, rest-harrow, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng, coffee, cocoa, moringa, ginger and Ayuvedic plant extracts such as for example Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar Motha), Emblica Officinalis (Amalki), Morida Citrifolia (Ashyuka), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Santalum album, (Chandana), Crocus Sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo Nucifera (Kamala), sweet grasses like wheat, barley, rye, oats, spelt, maize, the various varieties of millet (sorghum, crabgrass, foxtail millet as examples), sugar cane, meadow fescue, meadow foxtail, oat grass, bent grass, tall grass, moor grass, bamboo, cotton grass, fountain grasses, Andropogonodeae (Imperata Cylindrica also called cogon grass), buffalo grass, cord grass, Bermuda grasses, love grass, Cymbopogon (lemon grass), Oryzeae (rice), Zizania (wild rice), marram grass, blue oat, creeping soft grass, quaking grasses, meadow grasses, wheatgrasses and Echinacea purpurea (L.) Moench, all types of wine as well as pericarp of Litchie chinensis.
According to the invention, the plant extracts can be used in pure as well as in diluted form. When they are used in diluted form, they normally comprise ca. 2-80 wt % active substance and the solvent is the extraction agent or mixture of extraction agents used for their extraction.
Occasionally, it may be required to use anionic polymers. Exemplary anionic monomers, from which such polymers can be made, are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid. Here, the acidic groups may be fully or partially present as the sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid and acrylic acid.
Anionic polymers that comprise 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid alone or as the comonomer, have proven to be quite particularly effective; the sulfonic acid group may be fully or partially present as the sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
The homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, which is commercially available, for example under the trade name Rheothik® 11-80, is particularly preferred.
Preferred non-ionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid esters, methacrylic acid esters, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.
Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and particularly polyacrylamide copolymers with monomers that include sulfonic acid groups. Such a polymer is comprised in the commercial product Sepigel®305 from the SEPPIC Company.
Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Preferred crosslinking agents can be allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, of sucrose and of propylene. Such compounds are commercially available under the trade name Carbopol®, for example.
Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks are also color-conserving polymers. A maleic acid-methyl vinyl ether copolymer crosslinked with 1,9-decadiene is commercially available under the trade name Stabileze® QM.
The compositions according to the invention preferably comprise the anionic polymers in quantities of 0.05 to 10 wt %, based on the total composition. Quantities of 0.1 to 5 wt % are particularly preferred.
In a further embodiment, the inventive agents can comprise non-ionic polymers.
Suitable non-ionic polymers are, for example:
The compositions according to the invention preferably comprise the non-ionic polymers in quantities of 0.05 to 10 wt %, based on the total composition. Quantities of 0.1 to 5 wt % are particularly preferred.
In another embodiment, the compositions according to the invention additionally comprise at least one UV-light filter. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
As oil-soluble substances, the following may be cited, for example:
The water-soluble substances include:
In particular, derivatives of benzoylmethane come into consideration as the typical UV-A filter, such as for example 1-(4′-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4′-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione or 1-phenyl-3-(4′-isopropylphenyl)-propane-1,3-dione. Naturally, the UV-A and UV-B filters can also be added as mixtures. Beside the cited soluble materials, insoluble pigments, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts can also be considered for this purpose, such as for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc), barium sulfate and zinc stearate. Here, the particles should have a mean diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and especially between 15 and 30 nm. They can be spherical, however elliptical or other non-spherical shaped particles can also be used.
Exemplary additional active substances, adjuvants and additives, which can be comprised in the cosmetic agents, are:
With regard to further optional components and the amounts used of these components, reference is expressly made to the relevant handbooks known to the person skilled in the art.
Consequently, another subject matter of the invention is a method for treating hair, in which a hair treatment agent according to claim 1 is applied onto the hair and rinsed out of the hair after a contact time.
The contact time is preferably a few seconds to 100 minutes, particularly preferably 1 to 50 minutes and quite particularly preferably 1 to 30 minutes.
A method, in which a cosmetic agent according to claim 1 is applied onto the hair and remains there, is also inventive. “To remain on the hair” is inventively understood to mean that the agent, after its application, is not immediately rinsed out of the hair again. In fact in this case the agent remains for more than 100 minutes on the hair until the next hair wash.
Finally, the use of a composition as described above for reducing and/or delaying dandruff of the scalp is inventive.
The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the invention in more detail, without limiting it in any way.
All indications of quantities are parts by weight unless otherwise stated. The following formulations were prepared using known production methods
Care spray, applicable also in the form of a foam and/or as a hair cure:
The pH of all formulations was adjusted to 2 to 6.
For the application as a foam, the formulation in question is either filled with a propellant gas in an aerosol container or dispensed as a foam from a pump bottle with a suitable pump attachment, such as for example Airfoamer.
For the application as a hair cure or cream, a fatty alcohol, such as cetylstearyl alcohol and/or ethylene glycol distearate and/or glycerin monostearate, are added in amounts of 0.2 to 5.0 wt % to the above listed formulations.
The pH of all formulations was adjusted to 4.5 to 5.8.
While at least one exemplary embodiment has been presented in the foregoing detailed description of the invention, it should be appreciated that a vast number of variations exist. It should also be appreciated that the exemplary embodiment or exemplary embodiments are only examples, and are not intended to limit the scope, applicability, or configuration of the invention in any way. Rather, the foregoing detailed description will provide those skilled in the art with a convenient road map for implementing an exemplary embodiment of the invention, it being understood that various changes may be made in the function and arrangement of elements described in an exemplary embodiment without departing from the scope of the invention as set forth in the appended claims and their legal equivalents.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 10 2012 201 614.7 | Feb 2012 | DE | national |
| Number | Date | Country | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Parent | PCT/EP2013/050777 | Jan 2013 | US |
| Child | 14334150 | US |
