Patent Grant
11957773
The present invention relates to hair conditioner compositions, more particularly to hair conditioner compositions comprising behenamidopropyl dimethylamine cationic surfactant.
A variety of approaches have been developed to condition the hair. These approaches range from post-shampoo application of hair conditioners such as leave-on and rinse-off products, to hair conditioning shampoos which attempt to both clean and condition the hair from a single product.
Although some consumers prefer the ease and convenience of a shampoo which includes conditioners, a substantial proportion of consumers prefer the more conventional conditioner formulations which are applied to the hair as a separate step from shampooing, usually after shampooing. Conditioning formulations can be in the form of rinse-off products or leave-on products, and can be in the form of an emulsion, cream, gel, spray, and mousse. Such consumers who prefer the conventional conditioner formulations value the relatively higher conditioning effect, or convenience of changing the amount of conditioning depending on the condition of hair or amount of hair.
Some consumers want a reduction or elimination of certain ingredients, including certain surfactants and preservatives, in hair care products. Some consumers want the ingredients in their hair care products to be EWG VERIFIED™, free of any of the ingredients that Whole Foods® lists as unacceptable for body care and be categorized as “risk-free” (green dot) by the Yuka® Application.
However, modifying the conditioner can negatively impact the product. For example, modifying the cationic surfactant can decrease conditioning performance and modifying the preservation system can have a negative impact on microbiological safety requirements.
Therefore, there is a need for a conditioner composition with an effective surfactant and preservation system that that is EWG VERIFIED™, does not contain any of the ingredients that Whole Foods® Market lists as unacceptable, and is categorized as “risk-free” by Yuka® Application.
A hair conditioner composition can contain: (a) an aqueous carrier; (b) from about 2.5 wt % to about 6.7 wt % of a behenamidopropyl dimethylamine; (c) from about 3 wt % to about 8 wt % of a fatty alcohol; (d) less than 1.5 wt % of a salt selected from the group consisting of sodium benzoate, sodium salicylate, sodium chloride, sodium carbonate, sodium borate, sodium acetate, sodium citrate, potassium benzoate, potassium acetate, calcium gluconate, calcium chloride, potassium sorbate, and combinations thereof; wherein the molar ratio of behenamidopropyl dimethylamine to fatty alcohol is from about 7:50 to about 4:5; wherein the composition comprises a uniform gel network; wherein the composition comprises d-spacing of less than 32 nm, as measured according to the d-spacing (Lβ-basal spacing) of Lamella Gel Network Test Method.
A hair conditioner composition comprising: (a) an aqueous carrier; (b) from about 2.5 wt % to about 6.25 wt % behenamidopropyl dimethylamine; (c) a fatty alcohol selected from the group consisting of stearyl alcohol, brassical alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and combinations thereof; (d) a preservation system comprising (i) from about 0.1% to about 0.5% sodium benzoate, by weight of the composition; (ii) from about 0.3% to about 1.5% of a second composition selected from the group consisting of glycol, glyceryl ester, and combinations thereof; wherein the molar ratio of sodium benzoate to the second composition is from about 1:4 to about 1:1; wherein the molar ratio of behenamidopropyl dimethylamine to fatty alcohol is from about 3:20 to about 3:4; wherein the composition comprises a uniform gel network; wherein the composition comprises d-spacing of from about 15 nm to about 30 nm, as measured according to the d-spacing (Lβ-basal spacing) of Lamella Gel Network Test Method.
While the specification concludes with claims particularly pointing out and distinctly claiming the subject matter of the present invention, it is believed that the invention can be more readily understood from the following description taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which:
While the specification concludes with claims particularly pointing out and distinctly claiming the invention, it is believed that the present invention will be better understood from the following description.
Hair conditioners are used to improve the feel, appearance, and manageability of the hair. Hair conditioning compositions generally include cationic surfactant(s), high melting point fatty compound(s) having a melting point of greater than 25° C. and in some examples from 40 to 85° C., and an aqueous carrier. The ingredients in current hair conditioners, including the cationic surfactant and preservation system, are generally recognized as safe and effective. However, there is growing demand from some consumers for a conditioner product and/or a preservation system that meets at least one, two, or all three of the following standards:
However, replacing traditional cationic surfactants, such as behentrimonium chloride (BTMAC), which is restricted by the Environmental Working Group (EWG) for use in the cosmetic products as of Nov. 25, 2019 and/or stearamidopropyl dimethylamine (SAPDMA), which is an unacceptable ingredient listed on the Whole Foods® Premium Body Care Unacceptable Ingredients (July 2018), and preservatives with ingredients that meet the standards, listed above, while maintaining product performance and antimicrobial effectiveness can be challenging.
Behenamidopropyl dimethylamine (BAPDMA) was identified as a cationic surfactant that can meet the standards, above. However, it can be hard to formulate effective conditioner compositions that contain BAPDMA because BAPDMA is a C22 amidoamine with the structure shown in
It was surprisingly found that the d-spacing in the inventive conditioner compositions (see Table 3 to Table 7, below) is less than 30 nm. It is believed that conditioners with d-spacing of less than 30 nm can provide good conditioning, clean feel, volume, and consumer preferred shear stress.
While not willing to be bound by theory, it is believed that the molar ratio of BAPDMA to fatty alcohol(s) and the addition of salts including sodium benzoate, can result in a conditioner composition with d-spacing that is less than 30 nm that provides good conditioning performance including a good slippery feel and wet detangling.
Table 1, below, compares the d-spacing of four commercially available conditioner compositions to Ex. 1 to Ex. 28 in Table 3 to Table 7. It was found that the d-spacing of Ex. 1 to 28 was similar to Herbal Essences® Honey & Vitamin B Conditioner, which contains BTMAC and the d-spacing was lower than the other examples, including John Frieda® Sheer Blond Brightening Conditioner, which contains the same cationic polymer (BAPDMA) as Ex. 1-28.
1Lot # 83565395LF, purchased at Target ®, Mason, Ohio 2019
2Lot # 82325395LK, purchased at Target ®, Mason, Ohio 2019
3Lot # 82165395LC, purchased at Target ®, Mason, Ohio 2019
4Lot # X0J11438 B, purchased at Target ®, Mason, Ohio 2019
Furthermore, the conditioners in Ex. 1 to Ex. 28 (Table 3 to Table 7), had a uniform gel network, as indicated by the single peak when the Differential Scanning calorimetry Test Method was performed.
Also, conditioner compositions that provide good wet conditioning may weigh down hair causing a loss of dry hair volume and/or may cause the hair to feel dirty and/or oily quickly, which can result in consumers washing their hair more frequently. It was found that the hair conditioner compositions of Ex. 1 to Ex. 35 may not only provide good hair conditioning but may also give good hair volume and/or provide a long-lasting clean feel, allowing less washing frequency.
Furthermore, Table 9 and Table 10, below, include examples that have a sodium benzoate preservative, which meets the standards. However, if the conditioner composition had a smooth and creamy consistency, then the level of sodium benzoate was too low to effectively inhibit the growth of microbes. When the level of sodium benzoate was increased, the conditioner composition was too thin to easily apply with a user's hands, which can significantly impact product performance and the usage experience. As shown in Table 11 and described in accompanying text, a preservation system with sodium benzoate and a glycol, such as caprylyl glycol, or glyceryl esters, such as glyceryl caprylate/caprate and glyceryl caprylate (and) glyceryl undecylenate can be effective if the proper levels of each ingredient are added.
It was found that a preservation system that contains sodium benzoate and a second composition selected from the group consisting of glycols, glyceryl esters, and combinations thereof contains all of the ingredients that have a EWG rating score of equal to or less than 3, can be EWG VERIFIED™, may not contain any of the ingredients that Whole Foods® Market lists as unacceptable, and can categorized as “risk-free” by the Yuka® Application, can maintain antimicrobial effectiveness, and can provide good conditioning performance.
The second composition can contain a glycol and/or a glyceryl ester. Glycols and glyceryl esters both have two —OH groups on the molecule. Non-limiting examples of glycols can include butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, decylene glycol (1,2-decanediol) and mixtures thereof. In one example, the glycol can be carpylyl Non-limiting examples of glycerol esters can include glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprate, glyceryl undecylenate and mixtures thereof.
In some examples, the cationic surfactant, the preservation system and/or the conditioner can also meet the COSMOS-standard (Jan. 1, 2019). The conditioner compositions containing this preservation system can have a uniform, smooth, creamy appearance and have an effective preservation system where the level of microbes (both bacteria and fungi) is undetectable (>99.99% reduction) as determined by the Bacterial and Fungal Microbial Susceptibility Test Methods, as described herein.
The conditioner composition and/or preservation system can be free of or substantially free of certain preservatives, in particular preservatives that do not meet one or more of the requirements, isothiazolinones including 5-chloro-2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one and 2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one (commercially available as Kathon™ CG from Dow®), benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, cyclohexylglycerin, and/or parabens. The conditioner composition can be free of or substantially free of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and salts thereof.
In addition to meeting the standards for a cationic surfactant and preservation system, some consumers prefer a conditioner composition that is free of or substantially free of the following: silicone, propellants, phthalates, parabens, isothiazolinones (e.g. Kathon™), phenoxyethanols, dyes, sulfates, and/or formaldehyde donors. The conditioner composition can also be vegan.
The conditioner composition can be free of or substantially free of behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, and/or stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
The conditioner composition can contain less than 6.75 wt % BAPDMA, alternatively less than about 6.50 wt % BAPDMA, alternatively less than about 6.25 wt % BAPDMA. The conditioner composition can contain from about 2 wt % to about 6.7 wt % BAPDMA, alternatively from about 2.2 wt % to about 6.5 wt %, alternatively from about 2.5 wt % to about 6.25 wt % BAPDMA, alternatively from about 2.75 wt % to about 6 wt %.
The conditioner composition can contain a fatty alcohol selected from the group consisting of stearyl alcohol, brassical alcohol, and cetyl alcohol. The conditioner composition can contain less than 8 wt % fatty alcohol, alternatively less than 7.5 wt %, alternatively less than 7 wt %. The conditioner composition can contain from about 2.5 wt % to about 9 wt % fatty alcohol, alternatively from about 3 wt % to about 8 wt %, alternatively from about 3.25 wt % to about 7.5 wt %, alternatively from about 3.5 wt % to about 7 wt %, alternatively from about 4 wt % to about 6.7 wt %.
The conditioner composition can have a total gel network (GN) content (BAPDMA+fatty alcohol(s) (FAOH)) of from about 0.1 to about 0.6 molar, alternatively from about 0.2 to about 0.5 molar, alternatively from about 0.3 to about 0.4 molar.
The conditioner composition can have a molar ratio of stearyl alcohol (C18 fatty alcohol) to total FAOH of from about 1:10 to about 1:1, alternatively from about 1:5 to about 9:10, alternatively from about 3:10 to about 4:5, and alternatively from about 2:5 to about 7:10.
The conditioner composition can have a molar ratio of acid to BAPDMA ratio of from about 1:2 to about 7:4, alternatively from about 3:5 to about 1:2, alternatively from about 7:10 to about 5:4, and alternatively from about 4:5 to about 1.3:1.
The conditioner composition can have a molar ratio of BAPDMA to FAOH from about 3:25 to about 9:10, from about 7:50 to about 4:5, from about 3:20 to about 3:4, from about 17:100 to about 7:10, and alternatively from about 9:50 to about 2:3.
The conditioner composition can have d-spacing of less than 32 nm, alternatively less than 30 nm, and alternatively less than 28 nm. The conditioner composition can have d-spacing from about 10 nm to about 30 nm, alternatively from about 15 nm to about 30 nm, alternatively from about 17 nm to about 29 nm, alternatively from about 18 nm to about 28 nm, and alternatively from about 20 nm to about 27 nm. The d-spacing determined by the d-spacing (Lβ-basal spacing) of Lamella Gel Network Test Method, described herein.
The conditioner composition can contain from about 0.2 wt % to about 1.5 wt % preservation system, alternatively from about 0.3 wt % to about 1.25 wt % preservation system, alternatively from about 0.4 wt % to about 1 wt % preservation system, alternatively from 0.5 wt % to about 0.8 wt % preservation system, and alternatively from about 0.6 wt % to about 0.8 wt % preservation system.
The conditioner composition can contain from about 0.05 wt % to about 0.8 wt % sodium benzoate, alternatively 0.1 wt % to about 0.5 wt % sodium benzoate, alternatively from about 0.2 wt % to about 0.4 wt % sodium benzoate. The conditioner composition can contain sodium benzoate and can contain less than 2% sodium benzoate, alternatively less than 1.5% sodium benzoate, alternatively less than 1% sodium benzoate, alternatively less than 0.8% sodium benzoate, alternatively less than 0.6 wt % sodium benzoate, and alternatively less than 0.5% sodium benzoate.
The preservation system can contain from about 20% to about 50% sodium benzoate, by weight of the preservation system, alternatively from about 25% to about 50% sodium benzoate, by weight of the preservation system, from about 30% to about 50% sodium benzoate, by weight of the preservation system, and from about 30% to about 40% sodium benzoate, by weight of the preservation system.
The conditioner composition can contain from about 0.3 wt % to about 1.5 wt % of a second composition, alternatively from about 0.32 wt % to about 1 wt %, alternatively from about 0.33 wt % to about 0.8 wt %, alternatively from about 0.34 wt % to about 0.6 wt %, alternatively from about 0.35 wt % to about 0.5 wt %, alternatively from about 0.37 wt % to about 0.45 wt %, and alternatively from about 0.38 wt % to about 0.43 wt %. If the conditioner composition contains too much glycol and/or glyceryl esters the gel network structure may be destroyed, and the conditioner will not have consumer acceptable rheology and/or performance.
The preservation system can contain from about 50% to about 80% of the second composition, by weight of the preservation system, alternatively from about 50% to about 75%, by weight of the preservation system, alternatively from about 50% to about 70%, by weight of the preservation system, and alternatively from about 50% to about 67%, by weight of the preservation system.
The weight ratio of sodium benzoate to the second composition can be from about 1:4 to about 1:1, alternatively from about 1:3 to about 1:1, alternatively from about 1:2 to about 1:1, and from about 1:1.7 to about 1:1.
The conditioner composition can have a shear stress from about 50 Pa to about 600 Pa, alternatively from about 75 Pa to about 575 Pa, alternatively from about 100 Pa to about 565 Pa, alternatively from about 105 Pa to about 550 Pa, alternatively from about 120 Pa, to about 500 Pa, and alternatively from about 125 Pa to about 450 Pa. The shear stress can be determined using the Shear Stress Test Method, described hereafter.
The conditioner composition can have a pH of less than 5. Alternatively, the conditioner composition can have a pH from about 2.5 to about 5, alternatively from about 3.5 to about 4.5. The pH can be determined using the pH Test Method, described hereafter.
As used herein, the articles including “a” and “an” when used in a claim, are understood to mean one or more of what is claimed or described.
As used herein, “comprising” means that other steps and other ingredients which do not affect the end result can be added. This term encompasses the terms “consisting of” and “consisting essentially of.”
As used herein, the terms “include,” “includes,” and “including,” are meant to be non-limiting and are understood to mean “comprise,” “comprises,” and “comprising,” respectively.
As used herein, the term “free of” means that 0% of an ingredient was intentionally added to the conditioner composition, or the conditioner composition comprises 0% of an ingredient by total weight of the composition, thus no detectable amount of the stated ingredient.
The term “substantially free of” as used herein means less than 0.5%, less than 0.3%, less than 0.1%, less than 0.05%, less than 0.01%, or less than an immaterial amount of a stated ingredient by total weight of the composition.
As used herein, “mixtures” is meant to include a simple combination of materials and any compounds that may result from their combination.
All percentages, parts and ratios are based upon the total weight of the compositions of the present invention, unless otherwise specified. All such weights as they pertain to listed ingredients are based on the active level and, therefore, do not include carriers or by-products that may be included in commercially available materials.
Unless otherwise noted, all component or composition levels are in reference to the active portion of that component or composition, and are exclusive of impurities, for example, residual solvents or by-products, which may be present in commercially available sources of such components or compositions.
It should be understood that every maximum numerical limitation given throughout this specification includes every lower numerical limitation, as if such lower numerical limitations were expressly written herein. Every minimum numerical limitation given throughout this specification will include every higher numerical limitation, as if such higher numerical limitations were expressly written herein. Every numerical range given throughout this specification will include every narrower numerical range that falls within such broader numerical range, as if such narrower numerical ranges were all expressly written herein.
Cationic Surfactant
The compositions of the present invention can comprise a cationic surfactant. The cationic surfactant can be included in the composition at a level of from about 0.1%, alternatively from about 0.5%, alternatively from about 0.8%, alternatively from about 1.0%, and to about 20%, alternatively to about 10%, alternatively to about 8.0%, alternatively to about 6.0% by weight of the composition, in view of providing the benefits of the present invention.
The surfactant can be water-insoluble. In the present invention, “water-insoluble surfactants” means that the surfactants have a solubility in water at 25° C. of alternatively below 0.5 g/100 g (excluding 0.5 g/100 g) water, alternatively 0.3 g/100 g water or less.
Cationic surfactant can be one cationic surfactant or a mixture of two or more cationic surfactants. Alternatively, the cationic surfactant is selected from: a mono-long alkyl amine; a di-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salt; a mono-long alkyl cationic neutralized amino acid esters; a combination of a mono-long alkyl amine and a di-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salt; and a combination of a mono-long alkyl amine and a mono-long alkyl cationic neutralized amino acid esters.
In some examples, the conditioner composition can be substantially free of or free of cationic surfactants that have a quaternized ammonium salt.
Mono-Long Alkyl Amine
Mono-long alkyl amine can include those having one long alkyl chain of alternatively from 19 to 30 carbon atoms, alternatively from 19 to 24 carbon atoms, alternatively from 20 to 24 carbon atoms, alternatively from 20 to 22 alkyl group. Mono-long alkyl amines can include mono-long alkyl amidoamines Primary, secondary, and tertiary fatty amines can be used.
Tertiary amido amines having an alkyl group of from about 19 to about 22 carbons. Exemplary tertiary amido amines include: behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldiethylamine, brassicamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicamidoethyldimethylamine Amines in the present invention are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 4,275,055, Nachtigal, et al.
In some examples, the conditioner composition can be substantially free of or free of stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, and/or diethylaminoethylstearamide.
These amines are used in combination with acids such as l-glutamic acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, fumaric acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, l-glutamic hydrochloride, maleic acid, and mixtures thereof; alternatively lactic acid, citric acid, at a molar ratio of the amine to the acid of from about 1:0.3 to about 1:2, alternatively from about 1:0.4 to about 1:1. The conditioner composition can contain from about 0.25 wt % to about 6 wt % acid, alternatively from about 0.4 wt % to about 5 wt % acid, from about 0.5 wt % to about 4 wt % acid, and alternatively from about 0.6 wt % to about 3 wt % acid.
In some examples, the conditioner composition can be free of mono long alkyl quaternized ammonium salts.
Di-Long Alkyl Quaternized Ammonium Salts
When used, di-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salts are alternatively combined with a mono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salt and/or mono-long alkyl amine salt, at the weight ratio of from 1:1 to 1:5, alternatively from 1:1.2 to 1:5, alternatively from 1:1.5 to 1:4, in view of stability in rheology and conditioning benefits.
Di-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salts can have two long alkyl chains of from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, alternatively from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, alternatively from 18 to 22 carbon atoms. Such di-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salts can have the formula (I):
wherein two of R71, R72, R73 and R74 are selected from an aliphatic group of from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, alternatively from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, alternatively from 18 to 22 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 30 carbon atoms; the remainder of R71, R72, R73 and R74 are independently selected from an aliphatic group of from 1 to about 8 carbon atoms, alternatively from 1 to 3 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 8 carbon atoms; and X− is a salt-forming anion selected from the group consisting of halides such as chloride and bromide, C1-C4 alkyl sulfate such as methosulfate and ethosulfate, and mixtures thereof. The aliphatic groups can contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether linkages, and other groups such as amino groups. The longer chain aliphatic groups, e.g., those of about 16 carbons, or higher, can be saturated or unsaturated. Alternatively, two of R71, R72, R73 and R74 are selected from an alkyl group of from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, alternatively from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, alternatively from 18 to 22 carbon atoms; and the remainder of R71, R72, R73 and R74 are independently selected from CH3, C2H5, C2H4OH, CH2C6H5, and mixtures thereof.
Di-long alkyl cationic surfactants can include, for example, dialkyl (14-18) dimethyl ammonium chloride, ditallow alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dihydrogenated tallow alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, and dicetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride.
High Melting Point Fatty Compound
The composition of the present invention comprises a high melting point fatty compound. The high melting point fatty compound can be included in the composition at a level of from about 1.0%, alternatively from about 1.5%, alternatively from about 2.0%, alternatively from about 2.5%, even alternatively from about 3%, and to about 30%, alternatively to about 15%, alternatively to about 8.0%, alternatively to about 7% by weight of the composition, in view of providing the benefits of the present invention.
The high melting point fatty compound can have a melting point of 25° C. or higher, alternatively 40° C. or higher, alternatively 45° C. or higher, alternatively 47° C. or higher, alternatively 49° C. or higher, in view of stability of the emulsion especially the gel network. Alternatively, such melting point is up to about 90° C., alternatively up to about 80° C., alternatively up to about 75° C., even alternatively up to about 71° C., in view of easier manufacturing and easier emulsification. In the present invention, the high melting point fatty compound can be used as a single compound or as a blend or mixture of at least two high melting point fatty compounds. When used as such blend or mixture, the above melting point means the melting point of the blend or mixture.
The high melting point fatty compound can be selected from the group consisting of fatty alcohols, fatty acids, and mixtures thereof. Further, it is understood by the artisan that, depending on the number and position of double bonds, and length and position of the branches, certain compounds having certain required carbon atoms may have a melting point of less than the above preferred in the present invention. Such compounds of low melting point are not intended to be included in this section. Nonlimiting examples of the high melting point compounds are found in International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, 1993, and CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition, 1992.
Among a variety of high melting point fatty compounds, fatty alcohols are alternatively used in the composition of the present invention. The fatty alcohols can have from about 14 to about 30 carbon atoms, alternatively from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are saturated and can be straight or branched chain alcohols.
Fatty alcohols can include, for example, cetyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 56° C.), stearyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 58-59° C.), behenyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 71° C.), and mixtures thereof. These compounds are known to have the above melting point. However, they often have lower melting points when supplied, since such supplied products are often mixtures of fatty alcohols having alkyl chain length distribution in which the main alkyl chain is cetyl, stearyl, brassica or behenyl group.
The fatty alcohol can be a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol.
Generally, in the mixture, the weight ratio of cetyl alcohol to stearyl alcohol is alternatively from about 1:9 to 9:1, alternatively from about 1:4 to about 4:1, alternatively from about 1:2.3 to about 1.5:1.
When using higher level of total cationic surfactant and high melting point fatty compounds, the mixture has the weight ratio of cetyl alcohol to stearyl alcohol of alternatively from about 1:1 to about 4:1, alternatively from about 1:1 to about 2:1, alternatively from about 1.2:1 to about 2:1, in view of avoiding to get too thick for spreadability. It may also provide more conditioning on damaged part of the hair.
Aqueous Carrier
The composition of the present invention can include an aqueous carrier. The level and species of the carrier can be selected according to the compatibility with other components, and other desired characteristic of the product.
The carrier can include water and water solutions of lower alkyl alcohols. The lower alkyl alcohols can be monohydric alcohols having 1 to 6 carbons, alternatively ethanol and isopropanol.
Alternatively, the aqueous carrier is substantially water. Deionized water is alternatively used. Water from natural sources including mineral cations can also be used, depending on the desired characteristic of the product. Generally, the compositions of the present invention comprise from about 40% to about 99%, alternatively from about 50% to about 95%, and alternatively from about 70% to about 93%, and alternatively from about 80% to about 92% water.
Gel Network
The gel network composition can be included in conditioner compositions to provide conditioning benefits, including improved wet feel of the hair after rinsing the conditioner. As used herein, the term “gel network” refers to a lamellar or vesicular solid crystalline phase which comprises at least one high melting point fatty compound, such as a fatty alcohol, as specified below, at least one surfactant, in particular a cationic surfactant, as specified below, and water or other suitable solvents. The lamellar or vesicular phase comprises bi-layers made up of a first layer comprising the high melting point fatty compound and the surfactant and alternating with a second layer comprising the water or other suitable solvent. Gel networks, generally, are further described by G. M. Eccleston, “Functions of Mixed Emulsifiers and Emulsifying Waxes in Dermatological Lotions and Creams”, Colloids and Surfaces A: Physiochem. and Eng. Aspects 123-124 (1997) 169-182; and by G. M Eccleston, “The Microstructure of Semisolid Creams”, Pharmacy International, Vol. 7, 63-70 (1986).
A gel network can be formed by the cationic surfactant, the high melting point fatty compound, and an aqueous carrier. The gel network is suitable for providing various conditioning benefits, such as slippery feel during the application to wet hair and softness and moisturized feel on dry hair.
Alternatively, when the gel network is formed, the cationic surfactant and the high melting point fatty compound are contained at a level such that the weight ratio of the cationic surfactant to the high melting point fatty compound is in the range of, alternatively from about 1:1 to about 1:10, alternatively from about 1:1.5 to about 1:7, alternatively from about 1:2 to about 1:6, in view of providing improved wet conditioning benefits.
Alternatively, especially when the gel network is formed, the composition of the present invention is substantially free of anionic surfactants, in view of stability of the gel network. In the present invention, “the composition being substantially free of anionic surfactants” means that: the composition is free of anionic surfactants; or, if the composition contains anionic surfactants, the level of such anionic surfactants is very low. In the present invention, a total level of such anionic surfactants, if included, alternatively 1% or less, alternatively 0.5% or less, alternatively 0.1% or less by weight of the composition. Most alternatively, the total level of such anionic surfactants is 0% by weight of the composition.
Additional Components
The composition of the present invention may include other additional components, which may be selected by the artisan according to the desired characteristics of the final product and which are suitable for rendering the composition more cosmetically or aesthetically acceptable or to provide them with additional usage benefits. Such other additional components generally are used individually at levels of from about 0.001% to about 10%, alternatively up to about 5% by weight of the composition.
A wide variety of other additional components can be formulated into the present compositions. These include: other conditioning agents such as aloe vera gel; aloe barbadensis leaf juice; ecklonia radiata extract; natural oils and waxes with shea butter, safflower oil, cocoa butter, orange peel wax, olive oil, macadamia seed oil, Oenothera biennis oil, Crambe abyssinica see oil, argon oil, camelina oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, Argania spinosa kernel oil, grape see oil, jojoba oil, coconut oil, meadowfoam seed oil, neem oil, linseed oil, castor oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, beeswax, sunflower wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, bayberry wax and soy wax; essential oils such as lime peel oil, lavender oil, peppermint oil, cedarwood oil, tea tree oil, ylang-ylang oil and coensage oil which can be used in fragrance; hydrolyzed collagen with tradename Peptein 2000 available from Hormel, vitamin E with tradename Emix-d available from Eisai, panthenol available from Roche, panthenyl ethyl ether available from Roche, hydrolyzed keratin, proteins, plant extracts, and nutrients; pH adjusting agents, such as citric acid, sodium citrate, succinic acid, phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate; salts, in general, such as potassium acetate and sodium chloride; coloring agents, such as any of the FD&C or D&C dyes; perfumes; and sequestering agents, such as disodium ethylenediamine tetra-acetate; and ultraviolet and infrared screening and absorbing agents such as octyl salicylate; antioxidants include: rosemary, tocopherol, vitamin E, vitamin A, tea extracts, and hydroxyacetophenone (available as SymSave® H from Symrise®); amino acids include histidine, l-arginine and others.
Product Forms
The compositions of the present invention can be in the form of rinse-off products or leave-on products and can be formulated in a wide variety of product forms, including but not limited to creams, gels, emulsions, mousses, and sprays.
The conditioning composition of the present invention is especially suitable for rinse-off hair conditioner. Such compositions are alternatively used by following steps:
Bacterial Microbial Susceptibility Testing Method
Bacterial microbial susceptibility testing is used to assess the anti-bacterial effectiveness of the preservation system in cosmetic rinse-off conditioner.
A bacterial pool (mixture in equal volumes) of challenge organisms used in the test is comprised of standardized solutions of the bacterial strains Escherichia coli (ATCC #8739), Staphylococcus aureus (ATCC #6538), Pseudomonas aeruginosa (ATCC #9027), Burkholderia cepacia (ATCC #25416), as well as Klebsiella pneumoniae, Enterobacter gergoviae and Serratia marcescens strains isolated from cosmetic products. The bacterial pool is prepared to have a concentration of approximately 6-8 log cfu/ml. To start the test, 0.1 ml of the bacterial pool is added into 10.0 g of a test conditioner. The test conditioner is then incubated for 2 days at 20-25° C. After incubation, a 1.0 g aliquot of product is neutralized using Modified Letheen Broth containing 1.5% polysorbate 80 (commercially available as Tween® 80 from Croda™) and 1% Lecithin to aid in microbial recovery/enumeration. Then, multiple diluted concentrations of this sample are transferred into petri dishes containing Modified Letheen Agar with 1.5% Tween® 80, and the agar plates are incubated at least 2 days at 30-35° C. Bacterial colony forming units (cfus) are then enumerated, and a bacterial log reduction from the starting log cfu/g challenge level is reported.
A 1 log cfu/g reduction equates to ˜a 90% bacterial reduction. A 2 log cfu/g reduction equates to ˜a 99% bacterial reduction. A 3 log cfu/g reduction equates to ˜a 99.9% bacterial reduction. A 4 log cfu/g reduction equates to ˜a 99.99% bacterial reduction. Greater log cfu/g reduction values indicate greater antimicrobial robustness from the preservation system.
Fungal Microbial Susceptibility Testing Method:
Fungal microbial susceptibility testing is used to assess the anti-fungal effectiveness of the preservation system in cosmetic rinse-off conditioner.
Standardized ATCC strains of the yeast Candida albicans (ATCC #10231) and mold Aspergillus brasiliensis (frm. niger) (ATCC #16404) are mixed in 1:1 (v:v) ratio, and this fungal pool is used as inoculum in the test. The concentration of the fungal pool is approximately 6-8 log cfu/ml. To start the test, 0.1 ml of the fungal pool is added into 10.0 g of a testing conditioner. After the inoculated sample is incubated for 2 days at 20-25° C., a 1.0 g aliquot of product is neutralized using Modified Letheen Broth containing 1.5% Tween® 80 and 1% Lecithin to aid in microbial recovery/enumeration. Then, multiple diluted concentrations of this sample are transferred into petri dishes containing Modified Letheen Agar with 1.5% Tween 80, and the agar plates are incubated for at least 5 days at 20-25° C., at which time fungal colony forming units (cfus) are then enumerated, and a fungal log reduction from the starting log cfu/g challenge level is calculated.
A 1 log cfu/g reduction equates to ˜a 90% fungal reduction. A 2 log cfu/g reduction equates to ˜a 99% fungal reduction. A 3 log cfu/g reduction equates to ˜a 99.9% fungal reduction. A 4 log cfu/g reduction equates to ˜a 99.99% fungal reduction. Greater log cfu/g reduction values indicate greater anti-fungal robustness from the preservation system.
Differential Scanning calorimetry
The melt transition behavior and temperature for the gel network may be obtained using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) according to the following method. Utilizing a TA Instruments Q2000 DSC, approximately 15 mg of the gel network pre-mix or the final conditioner composition containing the gel network is placed into a Tzero aluminum hermetic DSC pan. The sample, along with an empty reference pan is placed into the instrument. The samples are analyzed using the following conditions/temperature program: Nitrogen Purge at a rate of 50.0 mL/min; Equilibrate@20.00° C.; Sampling interval 0.10 sec/pt; Equilibrate at 5.00° C.; Isothermal for 1.00 min; Ramp 5.00° C./min to 80.00° C. The resulting DSC data is analyzed using TA Instruments Universal Analysis Software.
The use of DSC to measure the melt transition behavior and temperature for gel networks is further described by T. de Vringer et al., Colloid and Polymer Science, vol. 265, 448-457 (1987); and H. M. Ribeiro et al., Intl. J. of Cosmetic Science, vol. 26, 47-59 (2004).
pH Method
First, calibrate the Mettler Toledo Seven Compact pH meter. Do this by turning on the pH meter and waiting for 30 seconds. Then take the electrode out of the storage solution, rinse the electrode with distilled water, and carefully wipe the electrode with a scientific cleaning wipe, such as a Kimwipe®. Submerse the electrode in the pH 4 buffer and press the calibrate button. Wait until the pH icon stops flashing and press the calibrate button a second time. Rinse the electrode with distilled water and carefully wipe the electrode with a scientific cleaning wipe. Then submerse the electrode into the pH 7 buffer and press the calibrate button a second time. Wait until the pH icon stops flashing and press the calibrate button a third time. Rinse the electrode with distilled water and carefully wipe the electrode with a scientific cleaning wipe. Then submerse the electrode into the pH 10 buffer and press the calibrate button a third time. Wait until the pH icon stops flashing and press the measure button. Rinse the electrode with distilled water and carefully wipe with a scientific cleaning wipe.
Submerse the electrode into the testing sample and press the read button. Wait until the pH icon stops flashing and record the value.
Shear Stress
Shear stress is measured by shear rate sweep condition with a rheometer available from TA Instruments with a mode name of ARG2. Geometry has 40 mm diameter, 2° C. cone angle, and gap of 49 μm. Shear rate is logarithmically increased from 0 to 1200/s for 1 min, and temperature is kept at 26.7° C. Share stress at a high shear rate of 950/s is measured and defined above.
X-Ray Diffraction Method
SAXS (Small Angle X-ray Scattering) is used to confirm the presence of a multi-lamellar phase, and WAXS (Wide Angle X-ray Scattering) is used to differentiate between Lα (liquid) and Lβ (solid) crystalline structures were employed to verify the presence of the characteristic dispersed gel network phase of the personal conditioning compositions
d-Spacing (Lβ-Basal Spacing) of Lamella Gel Network:
Small-angle x-ray scattering (“SAXS”) as used to resolve periodic structures in mesophases is essentially an x-ray diffraction technique. It is used in conjunction with conventional wide-angle x-ray scattering (“WAXS”) to characterize aggregate structures such as micelles, gel networks, lamella, hexagonal and cubic liquid crystals. The different mesophases that show periodic structures can be characterized by the relative positions (d-spacing) of their reflections as derived from the Bragg equation (d=λ/2 Sin θ) where d represents the interplanar spacing, λ the radiation wavelength and θ the scattering (diffraction) angle.
The one dimensional lamella gel network phase is characterized by the ratio of the interplanar spacings d1/d1, d1/d2, d1/d3, d1/d4, d1/d5 having the values 1:2:3:4:5 etc. in the SAXS region (long-range order) and one or two invariant reflection(s) in the WAXS region (short-range) centered around 3.5 and 4.5 Å over a broad halo background. Other mesophases (e.g. hexagonal or cubic) will have characteristically different d-spacing ratios.
The SAXS data was collected with a Bruker NanoSTAR small-angle x-ray scattering instrument. The micro-focus Cu x-ray tube was operated at 50 kV, 0.60 mA with 550 um ScanTex Pinholes. The sample to detector distance was 107.39 cm and the detector a Vantec2K 2-dimensional area detector. Samples were sealed in capillaries and analyzed under vacuum with an analysis time of 600 s.
The value of d-spacing ((Lβ-basal spacing) of lamella gel network reported here is obtained with the 1st order of SAXS reflection which is the d1 spacing.
WAXS Confirmation (in Combination with SAXS) of Presence of Lβ Gel Network
Wide-angle data (WAXS) was collected on a Stoe STADI-MP diffractometer. The generator was operated at 40 kV/40 mA, powering a copper anode long-fine-focus Cu x-ray tube. The diffractometer incorporates an incident-beam curved germanium-crystal monochromator, standard incident-beam slit system, and Mythen PSD detector. Data were collected in transmission mode over a range of 0° to 50° 2θ with a step size of 3° 2θ and 15 seconds per step.
WAXS Pattern with reflection near 4.2 Å which, in combination with the lamellar reflections seen in the SAXS, is indicative of the presence of LP gel network.
The following are non-limiting examples of the conditioner compositions described herein. It will be appreciated that other modifications of the present invention within the skill of those in the art can be undertaken without departing from the spirit and scope of this invention.
All parts, percentages, and ratios herein are by weight unless otherwise specified. Some components may come from suppliers as dilute solutions. The amount stated reflects the weight percent of the added material, unless otherwise specified.
The examples in Table 2 to Table 11 were made as follows. Sodium benzoate and l-glutamic were dissolved in the water. The mixture was heated to 80° C. Then, the cationic surfactant and fatty alcohols (FAOH) were added to the mixture. Next, the mixture was cooled while the cationic surfactant and fatty alcohols continue to dissolve. Then, the additional preservatives were added followed by oils and perfume when the temperature was below 45° C. The composition was cooled to room temperature to make the conditioner composition.
Table 2, below, shows Comparative Examples 1-4. Even though these compositions contain an effective surfactant system that that is EWG VERIFIED™, does not contain any of the ingredients that Whole Foods® Market lists as unacceptable, and is categorized as “risk-free” by the Yuka® Application, they are not consumer preferred.
-Glutamic Acid wt % (active)2
-Glutamic acid to BAPDMA
Comparative Examples 1-4 all have two peaks, according to the Differential Scanning calorimetry Test Method, which indicates that the gel network is non-uniform and may provide poor conditioning, a poor user experience, and/or instability including a short shelf life.
In Comparative Examples 1-2, the molar ratio of BAPDMA to fatty alcohol is too high and since there is an excess of BAPDMA, you do not form the correct gel network that provides good conditioning and shear stress to form a consumer acceptable product.
In Comparative Examples 3-4, the molar ratio BADPMA to fatty alcohol is too low and since there is too little BADPMA not enough fatty alcohol was incorporated into the gel network. These examples have a poor gel network that does not provide good conditioning. Also, the excess of fatty alcohol can leave a greasy or weighed down feeling to the hair because too much fatty alcohol is deposited on the hair.
Table 3 to Table 8, below, show Examples 1-35, which are consumer acceptable conditioner compositions. The uniform conditioner compositions in Table 3 to Table 8 contain an effective surfactant system that that is EWG VERIFIED™, does not contain any of the ingredients that Whole Foods® Market lists as unacceptable, and is categorized as “risk-free” by the Yuka® Application.
-Glutamic Acid wt %
-Glutamic acid to
-Glutamic Acid wt %
-Glutamic acid to
-Glutamic Acid wt %
-Glutamic acid to
-Glutamic Acid wt %
-Glutamic acid to
-Glutamic Acid wt %
-Glutamic acid to
-Glutamic Acid wt %
-Glutamic acid to
Suppliers for Examples in Table 2 to Table 8
Examples 1-35 all have one melting transition peak, according to the Differential Scanning calorimetry Test Method, described herein, which indicates that the gel network is uniform and the may provide good conditioning performance, a good user experience, and may be stable.
The shear stress is consumer acceptable and ranges from 107 Pa to 562 Pa, if the shear stress is too low or too high it can be difficult for a consumer to apply the conditioner composition throughout their hair with their hands. If the shear stress is too low, the conditioner composition can drip from the hand and hair and if the shear stress is too high, it can be difficult to spread.
The gel network d-spacing is from 20.8 to 26.9 for Examples 1-28. This level of d-spacing indicates that the conditioner composition can provide good conditioning with good wet feel and good wet detangling.
Examples 1-35 have a molar ratio of BAPDMA to FAOH of greater than or equal to 20:80 and less than or equal to 40:60. It was surprisingly found that if the molar ratio of BAPDMA to FAOH was in this range and the conditioner contains sodium benzoate then the conditioner composition had a gel network with d-spacing that indicates good wet conditioning performance was formed. It is believed that other salts, including sodium salicylate, sodium chloride, sodium carbonate, sodium borate, sodium acetate, sodium citrate, potassium benzoate, potassium acetate, calcium gluconate, calcium chloride, and potassium sorbate, would form a gel network with the proper d-spacing was formed.
In Table 9 to Table 11, below, the Micro-Bacteria@2 days and the Micro-Fungi@2 days is determined by the Bacterial and Fungal Microbial Susceptibility Test Methods, described herein. For the preservation system to be effective, the level of microbes (bacteria and fungi) needs to be undetectable, which means that there is a greater than 99.99% reduction in microbes at two days as determined by the Bacterial and Fungal Microbial Susceptibility Test Methods. In Table 10, below, N/A indicates that the test was not performed.
-Glutamic Acid wt %
-Glutamic Acid
Comparative Example A is the control and does not contain a preservation system. Comparative Example A does not provide enough microbe reduction at 2 days for bacteria and fungi.
Comparative Examples B, C, and D contain 0.20 wt %, 0.25 wt %, and 0.40 wt % sodium benzoate, respectively, and these examples have an undetectable level (>99.99% reduction) of bacteria at two days. However, a preservation system that contains only sodium benzoate at these levels does not provide enough fungi reduction at two days, as these examples only have a ˜90% reduction.
Comparative Examples E and F include a preservation system that has both sodium benzoate and caprylyl glycol. These examples have an undetectable level (>99.99% reduction) of bacteria at two days. The combination of sodium benzoate and caprylyl glycol improves the reduction of fungi at 2 days, as compared to Comparative Examples B, C, and D. However, there is still a detectable level of fungi and therefore the preservation system in these examples is not considered effective.
Comparative Example G has a preservation system with 0.20 wt % sodium benzoate and 0.40 wt % glyceryl caprylate/caprate (a glyceryl ester) and this example has an undetectable level (>99.99% reduction) of bacteria at two days. However, it has a >90% reduction in fungi at two days and is ineffective.
Similar to Comparative Example GG, Comparative Example H has a preservation system with 0.20 wt % sodium benzoate and 0.40 wt % glyceryl caprylate (and) glyceryl undeylenate and this example has an undetectable level (>99.99% reduction) of bacteria at two days. However, it has a >90% reduction in fungi at two days and is ineffective.
Comparative Example I contains 0.20% sodium benzoate and behentrimonium chloride (cationic surfactant) and this example has an undetectable level (>99.99% reduction) of bacteria at two days. However, it has a detectable level of fungi (>99% reduction) at two days and is therefore ineffective.
Comparative Example J contains 1 wt % sodium benzoate. As shown in
Comparative Example K contains 2 wt % caprylyl glycol. As shown in
-Glutamic Acid wt %
Suppliers for Examples in Table 9 to Table 11
All of the Examples in Table 11 have preservation systems that are effective (i.e. bacteria and fungi are not detectable (>99.99% reduction) at 2 days) and a creamy and smooth appearance that is consumer preferred.
All the Examples in Table 11 have a creamy and smooth appearance that can be consumer preferred.
Combinations:
The dimensions and values disclosed herein are not to be understood as being strictly limited to the exact numerical values recited. Instead, unless otherwise specified, each such dimension is intended to mean both the recited value and a functionally equivalent range surrounding that value. For example, a dimension disclosed as “40 mm” is intended to mean “about 40 mm.”
Every document cited herein, including any cross referenced or related patent or application and any patent application or patent to which this application claims priority or benefit thereof, is hereby incorporated herein by reference in its entirety unless expressly excluded or otherwise limited. The citation of any document is not an admission that it is prior art with respect to any invention disclosed or claimed herein or that it alone, or in any combination with any other reference or references, teaches, suggests or discloses any such invention. Further, to the extent that any meaning or definition of a term in this document conflicts with any meaning or definition of the same term in a document incorporated by reference, the meaning or definition assigned to that term in this document shall govern.
While particular embodiments of the present invention have been illustrated and described, it would be obvious to those skilled in the art that various other changes and modifications can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. It is therefore intended to cover in the appended claims all such changes and modifications that are within the scope of this invention.
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