Patent Application
20150007848
The present invention relates to the technical field of keratin-containing fiber care, in particular to the temporary reshaping of keratin-containing fibers, such as for example temporary hair reshaping.
Styling agents for deforming keratin fibers have long been known and are used in various developments such as for example for volumizing, reviving and fixing of hairstyles, which with many hair types can only be achieved using setting active substances. Both hair treatment compositions which serve to shape hair permanently and those which shape it temporarily play an important role in this respect. Temporary shaping, which is intended to provide a good hold without impairing the healthy appearance of the hair, such as for example the gloss thereof, may be achieved for example by hairsprays, hair waxes, hair gels, setting lotions etc.
Appropriate agents for temporary shaping conventionally contain synthetic polymers as the shaping component. Preparations which contain a polymer may be applied to the hair by means of propellant gases or by a pump mechanism. Hair gels and hair waxes, on the other hand, are not generally applied directly onto the hair, but rather are distributed in the hair by means of a comb or the hands.
Known forms of temporary styling agents often cannot be dispensed with satisfactory accuracy. Thus, for instance, hair gels, hair creams and hair waxes are difficult to distribute once they have been applied to the hair. As soon as the comb or the hands onto which the styling composition has been applied come(s) into contact with the first bits of hair, comparatively large quantities of styling composition are released onto the hair. On the other hand, comparatively little styling composition is worked into bits of hair which are reached only later with the comb or the hands. The consequence of this is that the person applying the composition has either from the outset to apply a large quantity of styling composition, such that even those bits of hair which are reached last receive enough styling composition, or is obliged to apply the styling composition in a number of steps, wherein different bits of hair are treated each time. Hairsprays can be applied to hair more uniformly. However, since the user has no possibility of seeing the total quantity of styling composition applied, there is a risk of more styling composition being applied to the hair than is really necessary.
Pulverulent cosmetics are known and have already long been used for instance in the field of skin treatment. Typical examples are powder foundation or eyeshadow. To achieve the pulverulent consistency, it is necessary to use a pulverulent carrier material. A suitable carrier material may for instance be a metal oxide, such as for example silicon dioxide. However, the use of metal oxides as carrier material generally leads to deposition of the metal oxide on the keratin-containing fiber. Such deposition causes the keratin-containing fibers treated with such a pulverulent cosmetic preparation to lose their natural gloss and to take on a matt appearance. Moreover, a person skilled in the art is aware of pulverulent or granulated cosmetics for example from the field of hairdressing products. The hairdresser produces a defined quantity of the hair cosmetic from the powder or granular product by adding an excess of water, said hair cosmetic then being applied to the hair as a cream, gel or lotion. From the field of temporary reshaping keratin-containing fibers, a person skilled in the art is aware of solvent-containing powders in the form of a powder-to-liquid formulation. Document WO 2007/051511 A1 discloses the use of a pulverulent composition, containing 50 to 95 wt. % of an aqueous solvent, hydrophobized silicon dioxide powder and film-forming and/or setting polymer present at least in the aqueous solvent for temporary deformation of keratinic fibers.
Document WO 2010/054980 A1 discloses the use of a pulverulent composition with core-shell particles for temporary deformation of keratinic fibers, wherein the shell contains the particles of at least one hydrophobized metal oxide powder and the core comprises a liquid, aqueous phase. These pulverulent core-shell particles comprise at least one film-forming and/or setting polymer in the form of particles.
Document WO-A1-2011/076518 describes pulverulent compositions which may be converted into a liquid and which comprise an active substance sorbed onto a carrier.
Although prior art pulverulent hair cosmetics do deliver acceptable hold for hair reshaping, the result achieved with these agents is need of improvement with regard to the parameters of gloss and volume and hold elasticity. In addition, the known pulverulent compositions are not compatible with all cosmetic raw materials and exhibit limited storage stability.
The object of the present invention was accordingly to provide a hair treatment agent for temporary shaping which can be simply and precisely dispensed and provides the fibers with improved gloss and volume and an elastic hold. The durability of the styling result should also not be impaired. If the hair treatment agent is in powder form, it should not form lumps on contact with a small amount of water, but rather should be readily distributable on the fibers.
It has been found that the prior art teaching is improved by a composition as described below, in particular in powder form. Compositions with the following requirements profile are novel with regard to application to the fibers in the context of reshaping keratin-containing fibers.
The present invention firstly provides cosmetic agents containing as component (a) at least one polymer comprising at least one structural unit of formula (I) and at least one structural unit of formula (II),
in which
X+ denotes a physiologically acceptable cation (in particular Na+),
R1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group and
R2 denotes a (C2 to C6) hydroxyalkyl group,
and as component (b) at least one setting polymer.
Keratin-containing fibers should be understood to mean, according to the invention, furs, wool, feathers and in particular human hair.
Polymers are taken according to the invention to mean compounds which are synthesized from a plurality of molecules, in which one kind or a plurality of species of atoms or atomic groups (“constitutive units”, “basic building blocks” or “repeat units”) are repeatedly arranged adjacent one another and have a molecular weight of at least 10,000 g/mol. The polymers are obtained by polyreaction, wherein the latter may proceed artificially (i.e. synthetically) or naturally.
The structural unit of formula (I) is derived from 2-methyl-2[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid (AMPS), which may be in partially or completely neutralized form. Conventionally Na+ and NH4+ are preferred as cations.
If, according to the above formula (II), the residue R2 denotes a 2-hydroxyethyl group, the resultant component (a) polymers of the agent according to the invention are most preferred.
Preferred component (a) polymers of the agent according to the invention are obtainable under the INCI name Hydroxyethylacrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer for example in powder form from Seppic under the trade name Sepinov® EMT 10.
Irrespective of whether the agents according to the invention contain one or more component (a) polymers according to the invention, it is preferable to use these polymers within specific quantity ranges. In this case, preferred agents according to the invention are those which contain said component (a) polymers in a quantity of between 5 and 95 wt. %, in particular of 0.1 to 50 wt. %, more preferably of 5.0 to 40.0 wt. % and particularly preferably of 10.0 to 30.0 wt. %, in each case relative to the weight of the agent.
Setting polymers assist in holding or building up the volume and fullness of the overall hairstyle. These polymers are simultaneously also film-forming polymers and therefore generally typical substances for shaping hair treatment agents such as hair setting preparations, hair mousses, hair waxes or hair sprays. Film formation may here take place only at points and connect only a few fibers together.
Film-forming compounds or film-forming polymers should be understood to mean those compounds/polymers which, on drying, leave behind a continuous film on the skin, hair or nails. Such film formers may be used in the most varied of cosmetic products, such as for example face masks, make-up, hair setting preparations, hairsprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair tonics, shampoos or nail polishes.
Film-forming compounds or film-forming polymers are further understood to mean those polymers which are capable, when applied in a 0.01 to 20 wt. % aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous/alcoholic solution, of depositing a transparent film on the hair.
The setting polymers are preferably present in a quantity of 2.0 wt. % to 95 wt. %, in particular of 5.0 wt. % to 95.0 wt. %, particularly preferably of 7.5 to 95.0 wt. %, in each case relative to the total weight of the cosmetic agent.
Preferred cosmetic agents contain as component (b) setting polymer at least one setting polymer selected from polymers comprising at least one lactam structural unit. These polymers may in turn preferably be nonionic or cationic.
The pyrrolidon-1-yl group and the caprolactam-1-yl group may be mentioned as the lactam structural unit, wherein pyrrolidon-1-yl groups are more preferred as the lactam structural unit.
In the context of a particularly preferred embodiment, the cosmetic agents according to the invention contain as film-forming component (b) polymer at least one nonionic setting polymer. This in turn preferably comprises at least one lactam structural unit.
The nonionic setting polymers are present in the agent according to the invention preferably in a quantity of 2.0 wt. % to 95 wt. %, in particular of 5.0 wt. % to 95.0 wt. % and particularly preferably of 7.5 wt. % to 95.0 wt. %, in each case relative to the weight of the agent according to the invention.
The nonionic setting polymers are in turn preferably selected from at least one polymer from the group formed of
homopolymers and nonionic copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone,
nonionic copolymers of isobutene,
nonionic copolymers of maleic anhydride.
Suitable polyvinylpyrrolidones are for example commercial products such as Luviskol® K 90 or Luviskol® K 85 from BASF SE.
A suitable polyvinyl acetate is distributed for example under the trade name Vinac® as an emulsion by Air Products.
Agents according to the invention which contain as nonionic setting polymer at least one polymer selected from the group formed of
If copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl esters of carboxylic acids with 2 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate are used, it is in turn preferred for the molar ratio of the structural units obtained from the monomer N-vinylpyrrolidone to the structural units of the polymer obtained from the monomer vinyl esters of carboxylic acids with 2 to 18 carbon atoms (in particular vinyl acetate) to be in the range from 20:80 to 80:20, in particular from 30:70 to 60:40.
Suitable copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate are obtainable for example under the trademark Luviskol® VA 37, Luviskol® VA 55, Luviskol® VA 64 and Luviskol® VA 73 from BASF SE.
The cosmetic agents according to the invention preferably contain as film-forming component (b) polymer at least one cationic setting polymer. These in turn preferably comprise at least one lactam structural unit. Cationic polymers should be taken to mean polymers which comprise a group in the main and/or side chain which is “temporarily” or “permanently” cationic. Polymers which are designated “permanently cationic” according to the invention are those which, irrespective of the pH value of the agent, comprise a cationic group. As a rule, these are polymers which contain a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. Polymers which have proven particularly suitable are those in which the quaternary ammonium group is attached via a C1-4 hydrocarbon group to a main polymer chain synthesized from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or the derivatives thereof.
A cationic setting polymer which is preferably suitable according to the invention is at least one cationic setting polymer which contains at least one structural element of formula (M9) and optionally additionally at least one structural element of formula (M10),
in which
The positive polymer charge may be offset using any possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as for example chloride, bromide, hydrogensulfate, methylsulfate, ethylsulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogenphosphate, dihydrogenphosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
At least one of the following compounds may preferably be used as said cationic setting polymer
Cationic polymers which can more preferably be used for the purposes of the invention are moreover those cationic setting copolymers which comprise at least one structural element of formula (M11)
in which R″ denotes a (C1 to C4) alkyl group, in particular a methyl group, and additionally comprise at least one further cationic and/or nonionic structural element.
The positive polymer charge may be offset using any possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as for example chloride, bromide, hydrogensulfate, methylsulfate, ethylsulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogenphosphate, dihydrogenphosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
It is in turn preferred according to the invention for at least one copolymer (c1) to be present as additional cationic setting polymer, which copolymer (c1) additionally comprises a structural element of formula (M6) as well as at least one structural element of formula (M11),
in which R″ denotes a (C1 to C4) alkyl group, in particular a methyl group.
The positive polymer charge of the copolymers (c1) may be offset using any possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as for example chloride, bromide, hydrogensulfate, methylsulfate, ethylsulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogenphosphate, dihydrogenphosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
Particularly preferred cationic setting polymers contain as copolymers (c1) 10 to 30 mol %, preferably 15 to 25 mol % and in particular 20 mol % structural units according to formula (M11) and 70 to 90 mol %, preferably 75 to 85 mol % and in particular 80 mol % structural units according to formula (M6).
In this case, it is more preferred for the copolymers (c1) to contain, in addition to polymer units which arise from the incorporation of the stated structural units according to formula (M11) and (M6) into the copolymer, at most 5 wt. %, preferably at most 1 wt. %, polymer units originating from the incorporation of other monomers. The copolymers (c1) are preferably synthesized exclusively from structural units of formula (M11) with R″=methyl and (M6).
If a chloride ion is used to offset the positive charge of the polymer of formula (Poly1), these N-methylvinylimidazole/vinylpyrrolidone copolymers are designated in accordance with INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-16 and are obtainable for example from BASF under the trade names Luviquat® Style, Luviquat® FC 370, Luviquat®FC 550, Luviquat®FC 905 and Luviquat®MQ 552
If a methosulfate is used to offset the positive charge of the polymer of formula (Poly1), these N-methylvinylimidazole/vinylpyrrolidone copolymers are designated in accordance with INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-44 and are obtainable for example from BASF under the trade name Luviquat® UltraCare.
In addition to or instead of the copolymer(s) (c1), cosmetic agents according to the invention may also contain copolymers (c2) which, on the basis of copolymer (c1), comprise structural units of formula (M7) as additional structural units
Further cosmetic agents which are more preferred according to the invention are thus characterized in that they contain as cationic setting polymer at least one copolymer (c2) which contains at least one structural unit according to formula (M11-a) and at least one structural unit according to formula (M6) and at least one structural unit according to formula (M7)
In this case too, it is more preferred for the copolymers (c2) to contain, in addition to polymer units which arise from the incorporation of the stated structural units according to formula (M11-a), (M6) and (M7) into the copolymer, at most 5 wt. %, preferably at most 1 wt. %, polymer units originating from the incorporation of other monomers. The copolymers (c2) are preferably synthesized exclusively from structural units of formulae (M11-a), (M6) and (M7).
The positive polymer charge of component (c2) may be offset using any possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as for example chloride, bromide, hydrogensulfate, methylsulfate, ethylsulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogenphosphate, dihydrogenphosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
If a methosulfate is used to offset the positive charge of the polymer of formula (Poly2), such N-methylvinylimidazole/vinylpyrrolidone/vinylcaprolactam copolymers are designated in accordance with INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-46 and are obtainable for example from BASF under the trade name Luviquat® Hold.
Particularly preferred copolymers (c2) contain 1 to 20 mol %, preferably 5 to 15 mol % and in particular 10 mol % structural units according to formula (M11-a) and 30 to 50 mol %, preferably 35 to 45 mol % and in particular 40 mol % structural units according to formula (M6) and 40 to 60 mol %, preferably 45 to 55 mol % and in particular 60 mol % structural units according to formula (M7).
In addition to or instead of the copolymer(s) (c1) and/or (c2), the cosmetic agents according to the invention may also contain copolymers (c3) as a cationic setting polymer, which copolymers (c3) contain structural units of the formulae (M11-a) and (M6) as structural units, together with further structural units from the group of vinylimidazole units and further structural units from the group of acrylamide and/or methacrylamide units.
Further cosmetic agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention are thus characterized in that they contain as additional cationic setting polymer at least one copolymer (c3) which contains at least one structural unit according to formula (M11-a) and at least one structural unit according to formula (M6) and at least one structural unit according to formula (M10) and at least one structural unit according to formula (M12).
In this case too, it is more preferred for the copolymers (c3) to contain, in addition to polymer units which arise from the incorporation of the stated structural units according to formula (M11-a), (M6), (M8) and (M12) into the copolymer, at most 5 wt. %, preferably at most 1 wt. %, polymer units originating from the incorporation of other monomers. The copolymers (c3) are preferably synthesized exclusively from structural units of formulae (M11-a), (M6), (M8) and (M12).
The positive polymer charge of component (c3) may be offset using any possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as for example chloride, bromide, hydrogensulfate, methylsulfate, ethylsulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogenphosphate, dihydrogenphosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
If a methosulfate is used to offset the positive charge of the polymer of formula (Poly3), such N-methylvinylimidazole/vinylpyrrolidone/vinylimid-azole/methacrylamide copolymers are designated in accordance with INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-68 and are obtainable for example from BASF under the trade name Luviquat® Supreme.
Particularly preferred copolymers (c3) contain 1 to 12 mol %, preferably 3 to 9 mol % and in particular 6 mol % structural units according to formula (M11-a) and 45 to 65 mol %, preferably 50 to 60 mol % and in particular 55 mol % structural units according to formula (M6) and 1 to 20 mol %, preferably 5 to 15 mol % and in particular 10 mol % structural units according to formula (M8) and 20 to 40 mol %, preferably 25 to 35 mol % and in particular 29 mol % structural units according to formula (M12).
Further more preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as cationic setting polymer at least one copolymer (c4) comprising at least one structural unit of formula (M6), at least one structural unit of formula (M13), at least one structural unit of formula (M8) and at least one structural unit of formula (M11),
in which
It is preferable according to the invention for said copolymer to have a charge density of the cationic charge of 0.8 meq/g at a pH value of pH 7.
It is preferable according to the invention for R according to formula (M13) to denote a methyl group.
It is preferable according to the invention for R′″ according to formula (M13) to denote a hydrogen atom.
It is preferable according to the invention for R″ according to formula (M11) to denote a methyl group.
A copolymer which is more preferred according to the invention comprises at least one structural unit of formula (M6), at least one structural unit of formula (M13-a), at least one structural unit of formula (M8) and at least one structural unit of formula (M11-a).
The agents according to the invention particularly preferably contain a copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylimidazole, N-methyl-N′-vinylimid-azolium chloride and methacrylic acid as said copolymer.
It is most preferable according to the invention for the copolymer bearing the INCI name Polyquaternium-86 to be present as the copolymer in the agents according to the invention. INCI is an abbreviation for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. Such copolymers are sold for example by BASF SE under the trade name Luvigel® Advanced in the form of a white powder.
Among the setting polymers selected from the cationic polymers with at least one structural element of the above formula (M11-a), the following are preferred:
Further cationic polymers preferably usable in the cosmetic agents according to the invention are “temporarily cationic” polymers. These polymers conventionally contain an amino group which at specific pH values is in the form of a quaternary ammonium group and is thus cationic.
Particularly preferred cosmetic agents contain as component (b) setting polymer at least one setting polymer which comprises at least one structural unit of formula (III) and at least one structural unit of formula (IV),
Component (b) setting polymers preferably suitable for the purposes of the invention are those which comprise as structural unit of formula (IV) at least one structural unit of formulae (M1-1) to (M1-8)
Here, the group of polymers
The cationic polymers are present according to the invention preferably in quantities of 2.0 wt. % to 95 wt. %, in particular of 5.0 wt. % to 95.0 wt. %, particularly preferably of 7.5 to 95.0 wt. %, in each case relative to the total weight of the cosmetic agents according to the invention.
The cosmetic agents according to the invention may also contain as setting polymer at least one amphoteric setting polymer. The term amphoteric polymers includes not only those polymers which contain in each molecule both free amino groups and free —COOH or SO3H groups and are capable of forming internal salts, but also zwitterionic polymers, which contain in each molecule quaternary ammonium groups and —COO− or —SO3− groups, and those polymers which contain —COOH or SO3H groups and quaternary ammonium groups. One example of an amphoteric polymer usable according to the invention is the acrylic resin obtainable under the name Amphomer®, which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and the simple alkyl esters thereof.
Furthermore, at least one anionic setting polymer may preferably be used as component (b) setting polymers. The anionic polymers are anionic polymers which preferably comprise carboxylate and/or sulfonate groups. Examples of anionic monomers of which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. In this case, the acidic groups may wholly or in part be in the form of a sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
Within this embodiment it is preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionogenic monomer. With regard to anionic monomers, reference is made to the above-listed substances. Preferred nonionogenic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid esters, methacrylic acid esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.
Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with monomers containing sulfonic acid groups. A more preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol % acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol % 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or in part in the form of a sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Further anionic polymers which may preferably be used are selected from the group formed of
It is moreover preferred for the cosmetic agent according to the invention to contain relative to its weight no more than 8 wt. %, in particular no more than 5 wt. %, of a liquid.
More preferably, the cosmetic agents according to the invention are in powder form. For the purposes of the invention, cosmetic agents are pulverulent if their particles flow freely under their own weight (cf. DIN EN ISO 6186: 1998-08). For the purposes of the invention, particles are grains (cf. DIN 66160: 1992-09) of solids.
It should explicitly be noted that the representatives of components (a) and (b) of the agent according to the invention mentioned previously as being preferred (see above) are more preferred for the embodiment as powder.
In the context of the embodiment of agents according to the invention as powder, it has again proven particularly advantageous for the volume-related average particle diameter (d0.5 volume related, determined by laser diffraction) of the powder to be in a range from 10 μm to 800 μm, in particular from 25 μm to 500 μm.
Keratin-containing fibers should be understood to mean, according to the invention, furs, wool, feathers and in particular human hair.
The agents according to the invention in powder form are very simple to dispense. They may be distributed very uniformly over the keratin-containing fibers in the presence of a small amount of water, i.e. by previous application to a damp surface of an application aid and/or by application to damp hair. The small quantity of solvent on the damp hair or the damp surface of an application aid is sufficient for targeted wetting of the hair fibers with the cosmetic preparation. Lumps do not form.
The agents according to the invention, in particular in the embodiment as powder, may additionally contain at least one wax. Waxes according to the invention exhibit a melting point at 1013 mbar in a range from 38° C. to 95° C.
The waxes are preferably selected from vegetable, animal and mineral waxes, wherein preferred waxes are those which have a melting point in the range from 50° C. to 90° C.
It is more preferred according to the invention for the cosmetic agent according to the invention to contain at least one wax, selected from at least one wax of the group beeswax (Cera Alba), carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, montan wax, paraffin wax, microcrystalline paraffin wax, ozokerite wax and cetyl palmitate.
The teaching according to the invention also covers the combined use of a plurality of waxes. For instance, an addition of carnauba wax may be used to increase the melting and dropping point of another wax and to reduce its tackiness. A series of wax mixtures, optionally in a blend with further additives, is accordingly commercially available. Examples of the mixtures preferably used according to the invention are “Spezialwachs 7686 OE” (a mixture of cetyl palmitate, beeswax, microcrystalline wax and polyethylene with a melting range of 73-75° C.; manufacturer: Kahl & Co), Kahlwax 6240 (hydrogenated vegetable oil) and “Weichceresin®FL 400” (a vaseline/vaseline oil/wax mixture with a melting point of 50-54° C.; manufacturer: Parafluid Mineralolgesellschaft).
It has proven more preferable for wax-containing agents according to the invention to contain, together with at least one wax, in addition at least one emulsifier. In the context of this embodiment, liquid emulsifiers may also be used, providing these yield a pulverulent compound for example by sorption when blended with the at least one wax.
Preferred emulsifiers are nonionic and contain as hydrophilic group for example a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of a polyol group and polyglycol ether group. The cosmetic agent according to the invention preferably additionally contains, in addition to at least one wax, at least one nonionic emulsifier selected from at least one compound from the group formed of
R1CO—(OCH2CHR2)wOR3 (E4-I)
R4O-[G]p (E4-II)
If the agents according to the invention are in particular in pulverulent solid form, they may additionally contain pulverulent metal oxides. These metal oxides may be hydrophilic or hydrophobic.
Metal oxides which are preferably suitable are selected according to the invention from at least one representative of the group formed of silicates, aluminum silicates, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and silicon dioxide.
More preferred aluminum silicates (also known as aluminosilicates) are selected from among phyllosilicates, tectosilicates or mixtures thereof.
Preferably suitable phyllosilicates are selected from among kaolins (here in particular kaolinite, dickite, halloysite and nacrite), serpentine, talcum, pyrophyllite, montmorillonite, quartz, bentonite, mica (here in particular illite, muscovite, paragonite, phlogopite, biotite, lepidolite, margarite and smectite (here in particular montmorrilionite, saponite, nontronite and hectorite)).
Preferably suitable tectosilicates are selected from among feldspar minerals (in particular albite, orthoclase, anorthite, leucite, sodalite, hauyne, labradorite, lazurite, nosean, nepheline) and zeolites.
If the agents according to the invention are in particular in pulverulent solid form, they may additionally contain pulverulent salts. Phosphates are suitable in this case, provided it is not necessary to avoid such use for environmental reasons. Among the numerous commercially obtainable phosphates, the alkali metal phosphates are very suitable, with particular preference given to pentasodium or pentapotassium triphosphate (sodium or potassium tripolyphosphate).
“Alkali metal phosphates” is the generic name for the alkali metal (in particular sodium and potassium) salts of the various phosphoric acids, a distinction being drawn between meta-phosphoric acids (HPO3)n and ortho-phosphoric acid H3PO4 as well as higher molecular weight representatives. Examples of such phosphates are pentasodium triphosphate, Na5P3O10 (sodium tripolyphosphate) and the corresponding potassium salt pentapotassium triphosphate, K5P3O10 (potassium tripolyphosphate). Sodium potassium tripolyphosphates are also preferably used according to the invention.
Mineral salts of monovalent metal ions, such as for example Na2SO4 or sodium chloride have also proven suitable.
If the agents according to the invention are in particular in pulverulent solid form, they may additionally contain dextrins, such as for example oligomers or polymers of carbohydrates, which may be obtained by partial hydrolysis of starches. Hydrolysis may be carried out in accordance with conventional, for example acid- or enzyme-catalyzed, methods. The hydrolysis products are preferably those with average molar masses in the range from 400 to 500000 g/mol. A polysaccharide with a dextrose equivalent (DE) in the range from 0.5 to 40, in particular from 2 to 30 is here preferred, wherein DE is a conventional measure of the reducing action of a polysaccharide in comparison with dextrose, which has a DE of 100. Usable compounds are not only maltodextrins with a DE of between 3 and 20 and dry glucose syrups with a DE of between 20 and 37 but also “yellow” and “white” dextrins with higher molar masses in the range from 2000 to 30000 g/mol.
The oxidized derivatives of such dextrins are the reaction products thereof with oxidizing agents which are capable of oxidizing at least one alcohol function of the saccharide ring to yield a carboxylic acid function.
Embodiments (A) to (H) are particularly preferred for the purposes of the invention:
For embodiments (A) to (H) the embodiments of the features stated therein and described above as preferred (see above) are mutatis mutandis likewise preferable. Moreover, the average particle diameters stated as preferred are preferred in the context of embodiments (A) to (H).
The cosmetic agents according to the invention may be packaged in virtually any desired containers. It has merely to be ensured that, on discharge of the agent, the powder is not exposed to a mechanical load which is so great that the powder is transformed into liquid form as early as the time of discharge. Suitable containers are for example jars, bottles or also tetrapacks, wherein the container is designed for example with a dispensing and metering device.
The present invention secondly provides the use of a cosmetic agent constituting the first subject of the invention for temporarily deforming keratinic fibers, in particular human hair. On application, the cosmetic agent according to the invention may be in powder form or comprise an aqueous cosmetic carrier. Preferred aqueous cosmetic carriers are aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous/alcoholic media preferably comprising at least 10 wt. % water, relative to the total agent. Alcohols which may be present are in particular the lower alcohols with 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as for example ethanol and isopropanol which are conventionally used for cosmetic purposes.
The invention thirdly provides a method for cosmetic treatment of human hair, in which a cosmetic agent constituting the first subject of the invention is applied to optionally damp hair and left on the hair.
A method of this type preferred according to the invention is a method for the cosmetic treatment of human hair in which
Examples of application aids for applying the pulverulent composition are the hand, a paintbrush, a sponge, a cloth, a hair brush, a curved brush, a curler, a mascara brush or a comb. It is preferred according to the invention for the application aid surface used to be the palm of a hand.
Bringing into contact according to step (iii) involves for example targeted rubbing of the powder into the hair, combing or brushing. Arrangement in a hairstyle according to step (iii) may proceed in a single operation with the application of said at least one pulverulent, hair-cosmetically active compound.
Drying in step (iv) may proceed through drying using the indoor atmosphere or for example through hot air from a hairdryer.
A further method preferred according to the invention as an embodiment of the third subject of the invention is a method for the cosmetic treatment of human hair in which
Moistening of the hair in step (i) may proceed through spraying a liquid, preferably water, onto the fibers. The fibers in step (i) are preferably shampooed with a conventional shampoo, rinsed and then rubbed with a hand towel. After completion of the rubbing step, the hair is not dripping wet but remains perceptibly damp.
The pulverulent composition is applied onto the hair according to step (ii) in metered manner for example using a salt shaker-like dispensing system.
Arrangement in a hairstyle according to step (iii) may proceed in a single operation with the application of said at least one pulverulent, hair-cosmetically active compound.
Drying in step (iv) may proceed through drying using the indoor atmosphere or for example through hot air from a hairdryer.
The preferred embodiments of the first subject of the invention also apply mutatis mutandis to the third and fourth subjects of the invention.
As described below, the pulverulent styling agents invention 1 to invention 10 according to the invention were produced, wherein they had the following compositions:
All the pulverulent raw materials were ground individually in a grinder. The raw materials were then mixed appropriately. The resultant finished styling powder was introduced into polyethylene bottles.
Ten strands of hair were treated, each with one of the above-stated styling agents. To this end, the strands of hair were moistened and the agent according to the invention was applied to the damp strands and rubbed in. The treated strands of hair were stretched out on a board, fixed thereto and left to dry.
With the compositions invention 1 to invention 10 according to the invention, the strands held their shape excellently. The hair clearly had more structure and texture. Despite the particulate raw materials used, no visible dulling of the hair was observed. The hair retained its natural gloss.
Ten strands of hair were treated, each by application by hand of one of the above-stated styling agents. To this end, the palm of the hand was moistened with water and the agent according to the invention was rubbed onto the damp palm forming a gel. The resultant gel was applied to the strands of hair and rubbed in. The treated strands of hair were stretched out on a board, fixed thereto and left to dry.
The hair clearly had more structure and texture. Despite the particulate raw materials used, no visible dulling of the hair was observed. The hair retained its natural gloss.
The raw materials used in the context of the Examples are defined as follows:
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 10 2011 088 841.1 | Dec 2011 | DE | national |
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP2012/072237 | 11/9/2012 | WO | 00 |
