Patent Application
20090194121
The present disclosure relates to a ready-to-use cosmetic composition for permanently shaping keratin fibers, comprising, as permanent shaping agent, at least one amine chosen from secondary and tertiary amines. The present disclosure is also directed to a kit comprising compartments to be placed in contact to form the ready-to-use composition, and also to a process using this composition.
As used herein, the term “keratin fibers” means fibers of human or animal origin such as head hair, other body hairs, the eyelashes, wool, angora, cashmere or fur. Although the present disclosure is not limited to particular keratin fibers, reference will nevertheless be made more frequently to head hair.
As used herein, the term “permanently shaping” includes the curling, permanent waving and setting of Caucasian, Asiatic or North African hair.
The expression “chosen from secondary and tertiary amine” includes amines and the organic or mineral salts thereof not containing hydroxide ions in their chemical formula.
As used herein, the term “secondary and tertiary amines” means compounds which are capable of accepting a proton and derive from the substitution of two or three hydrogen atoms of ammonia with carbon-containing radicals singly bonded to the nitrogen atom.
As used herein, the expression “ranging from x % to y %” means the limits x and y are included.
In general, two techniques are used to permanently reshape the hair. They are based on breaking the disulfide bonds present in keratin (cystine):
Relative to the first technique using a reducing agent, this lanthionization technique does not require a fixing step, since the formation of the lanthionine bridges is irreversible. It thus takes place in a single step and makes it possible either to make the hair wavy or to relax it, decurl it or straighten it out. However, it is mainly used to relax naturally frizzy hair.
For the first technique, the reducing compositions that can be used for the first step of a permanent-waving or relaxing operation comprise thiols, sulfites or bisulfites as reducing agent. These agents can be used in an essentially aqueous medium at concentrations ranging from 0.5M to 1M to obtain good opening of the disulfide bonds. Among the thiols, those commonly used are thioglycolic acid, cysteamine, glyceryl monothioglycolate, thiolactic acid and cysteine. For example, thioglycolic acid is efficient at reducing the disulfide bonds of keratin at alkaline pH, such as in the form of ammonium thioglycolate, and is a product frequently used in permanent-waving (hair waving). However, it has been found that thioglycolic acid must be used in a sufficiently basic medium (for instance at a pH ranging from 8.5 to 9.5) if it is desired to obtain curling of sufficient intensity. Besides the drawback of releasing an unpleasant odour, which can require the use of more or less efficient fragrances to mask the odours, the use of a thiol at alkaline pH can also lead to degradation of the fiber and for further example, can lead to impairment of artificial colorations.
Sulfites or bisulfites are mainly used for relaxing. They can have drawbacks similar to thiols, with lower efficacy.
Thiols and sulfites (or bisulfites) can also have the drawback of poor stability in an aqueous solution.
In general, the durability of the reshaping effects obtained with thiols and sulfites by reduction of disulfides followed by fixing is considered to be very much inferior to that which may be obtained via the lanthionization technique.
For the second technique, the compositions generally used to perform the lanthionization can comprise as base a hydroxide such as sodium hydroxide, guanidinium hydroxide and lithium hydroxide. The lanthionization active agents, which can make it possible to open the disulfide bonds via a beta-elimination mechanism, are generally used in water-oil emulsion at concentrations ranging from 0.4M to 0.6M, by leaving them to act generally for 10 to 15 minutes at room temperature. Sodium hydroxide is the agent most commonly used. Guanidinium hydroxide is now a frequently used compound in many compositions. These two hydroxides, sodium hydroxide and guanidinium hydroxide, are the two main agents used for relaxing or decurling naturally frizzy hair. They can have several advantages over ammonium thioglycolate and sulfites, such as an absence of unpleasant odour, the fact that only one implementation step is required (shorter treatment time), and much greater durability and efficacy of the reshaping of the hair.
However, these hydroxides can have the drawback of being caustic. This causticity can affect the scalp by causing irritation that on occasion can be severe. This may be partially overcome by the prior application to the scalp of a greasy protective cream often referred to as “base” or “base cream,” the word “base” used in such a context not having the meaning of a basic agent in the chemical sense. When the protective cream is combined with the hydroxide in a single composition, this is referred to as a “no-base” composition, in contrast to the above name. This “no-base” technology is more frequently used.
The causticity of the hydroxides can also affect the state of the hair by giving it a coarse feel and/or making it much more fragile, this fragility possibly going as far as fraying, breaking or even dissolution of the hair if the treatment is prolonged. In certain cases, hydroxides can also cause decoloration of the natural color of the hair.
Formulations comprising sodium hydroxide are generally referred to as “lye relaxers” and those not comprising it are known as “no-lye relaxers.”
The majority of the “no-lye” relaxing formulations use guanidinium hydroxide. Since guanidinium hydroxide is unstable, it can be generated extemporaneously by mixing guanidine carbonate and a source of very sparingly soluble hydroxide such as calcium hydroxide. The reaction between these two compounds leads to the formation of guanidinium hydroxide and calcium carbonate, which precipitates in the composition. The presence of this precipitate can make the final rinsing of the hair much more difficult and can leave on the hair and scalp mineral particles that give it a coarse feel and an unaesthetic appearance resembling dandruff. The recent success of guanidinium hydroxide (“no-lye”) over sodium hydroxide (“lye”) appears to result from better relaxing efficacy and better skin tolerance. However, these technologies using bases of the hydroxide family remain very aggressive for the hair and the scalp and can require very strict control of the application time to avoid excessive irritation and impairment of the hair that may go as far as breaking. The aggressiveness arising from the causticity of hydroxides is one reason that compositions for the lanthionization of the hair not be used for permanent-waving (hair waving), but reserved for relaxing (hair straightening or hair relaxing).
Furthermore, hydroxides are known to be good agents for hydrolyzing amide functional groups (compare, for example, March's Advanced Organic Chemistry, 5th Edition, Wiley Interscience, New York, “Hydrolysis of Amides” pages 474 et seq), which can lead to breaking of the peptide bonds by direct nucleophilic attack. Without being bound by theory, it is probable that the impairments observed in the case of the hair and keratin materials in the broad sense are largely due to partial hydrolysis of the amide bonds of keratin.
Accordingly, there is thus a need in some applications, when shaping the hair, for compositions that are less aggressive to the hair and the skin.
Various studies have been performed with a view to simultaneously overcoming the drawbacks of reducing agents (first technique) and/or of hydroxides (second technique). To replace thioglycolic acid, many reducing agents have been proposed, but thioglycolic acid in its ammonium thioglycolate form remains both the reference compound and the compound most widely used in cosmetic formulations, for permanently shaping the hair. However, the use of reducing agents may lead to an insufficient durability for permanent shaping, which may make it necessary to frequently repeat the treatment and may lead inevitably to gradual degradation in the course of repeated applications. Moreover, the causticity of the hydroxides restricts their use solely to the relaxing field. No study has apparently made it possible to propose, as active ingredient for permanent shaping of the hair, a base which would be both effective and less aggressive than sodium hydroxide or hydroxides in the broad sense.
After extensive studies, the inventors have discovered, entirely surprisingly and unexpectedly, that the first step of the lanthionization process can be performed with at least one amine chosen from secondary and tertiary amines. In one embodiment, such a process results in intensity of permanent shaping, and cosmetic and mechanical qualities of the hair that have a durability greater than that which can be obtained with the reference product for permanent shaping, i.e. ammonium thioglycolate.
Accordingly, one aspect of the present disclosure is therefore a cosmetic composition for shaping hair comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one amine chosen from secondary and tertiary amines, wherein the cosmetically acceptable medium and the at least one amine are chosen such that the at least one secondary and/or tertiary amine is reactive with the cystines of the keratin fibers, via a beta-elimination reaction, producing dehydroalanine and leading to the formation of lanthionine, such that the keratin fibers obtain curls with a diameter ranging from 0.2 cm to 3 cm, in a permanent shaping time of less than 60 minutes.
For example, the permanent shaping time can be less than 50 minutes, such as less than 40 minutes.
The expression “secondary and tertiary amines,” which, as disclosed herein can be used as beta-elimination active agents resulting in lanthionization, means any derivative resulting from the substitution of two or three hydrogen atoms of ammonia with carbon radicals single-bonded to the nitrogen atom, not containing any hydroxide ions in its formula and capable of accepting a proton. For example, the secondary and tertiary amines can be selected from the group of secondary and tertiary cyclic amines, for instance from the group of tertiary cyclic amines.
Among the tertiary amines that may be used as beta-elimination active agents resulting in lanthionization as disclosed herein, non-limiting mention may be made, by way of example, of 1,4,7-trimethyl-1,4,7-triazacyclononane (Registry Number [96556-05-7]. Among the secondary amines that may be used as beta-elimination active agents resulting in lanthionization as disclosed herein, non-limiting mention may be made, for example, of 1,4,7-triazacyclonane (Registry Number [4730-54-5].
In the compositions according to the present disclosure intended for a keratin fiber permanent shaping process, the at least one amine chosen from secondary and tertiary amines can be present in a molar concentration for example, ranging from 0.01M to 4M, which corresponds to concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, for instance, a concentration ranging from 0.05M to 2M, which corresponds to an amount ranging from 0.5% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The pH of the compositions according to the present disclosure can range, for example, from 9.6 to 14, such as from 11 to 13.
In one embodiment of the present disclosure, the compositions comprise the at least one amine chosen from secondary and tertiary amines as the only permanent shaping active agent.
The compositions according to the present disclosure may also comprise at least one reducing agent, for instance thioglycolic acid or thiolactic acid and ester and amide derivatives thereof, for instance glyceryl monothioglycolate, cysteamine and its C1-C4 acyl derivatives such as N-acetylcysteamine or N-propionylcysteamine, cysteine, N-acetylcysteine, thiomalic acid, pantethine, 2,3-dimercaptosuccinic acid, sulfites or bisulfites of an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, the N-(mercaptoalkyl)-ω-hydroxyalkylamides described in European Patent Application No. EP-A-354 835, the N-mono- or N,N-dialkylmercapto-4-butyramides described in European Patent Application No. EP-A-368 763, the aminomercaptoalkylamides described in European Patent Application EP-A-432 000, the N-(mercaptoalkyl)succinamic acid and N-(mercaptoalkyl)succinimide derivatives described in European Patent Application No. EP-A-465 342, the alkylamino mercaptoalkylamides described in European Patent Application No. EP-A-514 282, the azeotropic mixture of 2-hydroxypropyl thioglycolate and of (2-hydroxy-1-methyl)ethyl thioglycolate described in French Patent Application No. FR-A-2,679,448, the mercaptoalkylaminoamides described in French Patent Application No. FR-A-2,692,481, the N-mercaptoalkylalkanediamides described in European Patent Application No. EP-A-653 202 and the formamidinesulfinic acid derivatives described in Patent Application No. PCT/US 01/43124.
When the compositions according to the present disclosure comprise at least one reducing agent, the at least one agent can be present in an amount less than or equal to 20% by weight, such as ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The compositions according to the present disclosure may also comprise at least one hydroxide, for example, chosen from alkali metals, alkaline-earth metals, transition metals and organic hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, rubidium hydroxide, caesium hydroxide, francium hydroxide, beryllium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, strontium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, molybdenum hydroxide, manganese hydroxide, zinc hydroxide, cobalt hydroxide, cadmium hydroxide, cerium hydroxide, lanthanum hydroxide, actinium hydroxide, thorium hydroxide, aluminium hydroxide, guanidinium hydroxide and quaternary ammonium hydroxides.
When the compositions as disclosed herein comprise at least one hydroxide, the at least one hydroxide can be present for example, in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 3.5% by weight, such as from 0.05% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to one embodiment of the present disclosure, for example, the composition comprises 0% of base belonging to the hydroxide families.
The compositions as disclosed herein can also comprise at least one surfactant chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants. Among the surfactants that may be used as disclosed herein, non-limiting mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkylbenzene sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, quaternary ammonium salts, alkylbetaines, oxyethylenated alkylphenols, fatty acid alkanolamides, oxyethylenated fatty acid esters and other nonionic surfactants of the hydroxypropyl ether type.
When the compositions according to the present disclosure comprise at least one surfactant, the at least one surfactant can be present in an amount of less than or equal to 30% by weight, for instance, ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition as disclosed herein may also comprise at least one treating agent chosen from those of cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric nature, which may improve the cosmetic properties of the hair and/or avoid its degradation.
Among the treating agents that may be used, for example, non-limiting mention may be made of those described in French Patent Nos. 2,598,613 and 2,470,596. It is also possible to use as treating agents volatile or non-volatile, linear or cyclic silicones and mixtures thereof, polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternized polyorganosiloxanes such as those described in French Patent Application No. 2,535,730, polyorganosiloxanes comprising aminoalkyl groups modified with alkoxycarbonylalkyl groups, such as those described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,749,732, polyorganosiloxanes such as the polyoxyalkyl polydimethylsiloxane copolymer of the Dimethicone Copolyol type, a polydimethylsiloxane comprising stearoxy end groups (stearoxy dimethicone), a dialkylammonium acetate polydimethylsiloxane or a polydimethylsiloxane polyalkylbetaine copolymer as described in British Patent No. 2,197,352, polysiloxanes organomodified with mercapto or mercaptoalkyl groups, such as those described in French Patent No. 1,530,369 and in European Patent Application 295,780, and also silanes such as stearoxytrimethylsilane.
The compositions according to the present disclosure may also comprise other treating ingredients such as cationic polymers, for instance those used in the compositions of French Patent Nos. 2,472,382 and 2,495,931, or cationic polymers of the ionene type, such as those used in the compositions of Luxembourg Patent No. 83703, basic amino acids (such as lysine or arginine) or acidic amino acids (such as glutamic acid or aspartic acid), peptides and derivatives thereof, protein hydrolysates, waxes, swelling agents and penetrating agents or agents for reinforcing the efficacy of the reducing agent, such as the SiO2/PDMS (polydimethylsiloxane) mixture, dimethylisosorbitol, urea and its derivatives, pyrrolidone, N-alkylpyrrolidones, thiamorpholinone, alkylene glycol or dialkylene glycol alkyl ethers, for instance propylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, C3-C6 alkanediols such as, for example, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol and 1,2-butanediol, 2-imidazolidinone, and also other compounds such as fatty alcohols, lanolin derivatives, active ingredients such as pantothenic acid, agents for preventing hair loss, antidandruff agents, thickeners, suspending agents, sequestering or complexing agents, opacifiers, sunscreens, fragrances and preserving agents.
In one embodiment, the composition according to the present disclosure is essentially in aqueous form, and may be, for example, in the form of a lotion, thickened or otherwise, of a cream or of a gel. The composition according to the present disclosure may also comprise at least one solvent such as, for example, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, or glycerol, in a maximum amount of less than or equal to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The cosmetically acceptable medium of the compositions according to the present disclosure can be, for example, water or a hydroalcoholic solution of water and at least one C2-C8 alcohol, such as ethanol or isopropanol.
The compositions as disclosed herein can also be in the form of a thickened cream so as to hold the hair in the final desired shape. These creams are made in the form of “heavy” emulsions, for example based on glyceryl stearate, glycol stearate, self-emulsifying waxes or fatty alcohols.
Liquids or gels comprising thickeners, such as carboxyvinyl polymers or copolymers that “stick” the hairs together and hold them in the desired shape during the leave-in time, may also be used.
The compositions according to the present disclosure can also comprise at least one adjuvant chosen from silicones in soluble, dispersed and microdispersed form; nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants; ceramides, glycoceramides and pseudoceramides; vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, plant, animal, mineral and synthetic oils; waxes other than ceramides, glycoceramides and pseudoceramides; water-soluble and liposoluble, silicone-based and non-silicone-based sunscreens; nacreous agents and opacifiers; sequestering agents; plasticizers; solubilizers; acidifying agents; mineral and organic thickeners; antioxidants; hydroxy acids; penetrating agents; fragrances and preserving agents.
The present disclosure also relates to a kit for shaping keratin fibers comprising at least two compartments, wherein at least one of the compartments comprises, a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one amine chosen from secondary and tertiary amines, which is reactive with the cystines of keratin fibers, via a beta-elimination reaction producing dehydroalanine and leading to the formation of lanthionine, such that the keratin fibers obtain curls with a diameter ranging from 0.2 cm to 3 cm in a period of time less than 60 minutes. For example, the kit as disclosed herein can comprise an additional composition for caring for, conditioning, making up, removing makeup from, protecting, cleansing or washing keratin fibers. The compositions of the kits according to the present disclosure are packaged in separate compartments, containers or devices, optionally accompanied by suitable, identical or different application means, such as fine brushes, coarse brushes or sponges.
Another aspect of the present disclosure relates to a process for permanently shaping keratin materials using a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one amine chosen from secondary and tertiary amines, the cosmetically acceptable medium and the at least one amine being chosen such that the at least one secondary and/or tertiary amine is reactive with the cystines of the keratin fibers, via a beta-elimination reaction producing dehydroalanine and leading to the formation of lanthionine, such that the keratin fibers obtain curls with a diameter ranging from 0.2 cm to 3 cm in permanent shaping time of less than 60 minutes.
For example, in the process according to the present disclosure, the period of time for permanent shaping can be less than 50 minutes, such as less than 40 minutes.
In the permanent shaping process according to the present disclosure, the composition as disclosed herein can be, for example, applied to dry hair, or to hair that has been made wet before hand, and previously put in rollers or curlers with a diameter ranging from 2 mm to 30 mm, it being possible for the composition to be applied gradually while putting the hair in curlers; the composition is then left to act for a period of time ranging from 5 to 60 minutes, such as 5 to 40 minutes. After removing the rollers, the hair is rinsed thoroughly.
According to the present disclosure, after applying the composition as disclosed herein, the head of hair may for example, be subjected to a heat treatment by heating to a temperature ranging from 30° C. to 60° C. In practice, this operation may be performed using a hairstyling hood, a hair dryer, an infrared ray dispenser and other standard heating devices.
It is possible to use, as a means of both heating and shaping the hair, a hot iron at a temperature ranging from 60° C. to 220° C., for example, ranging from 120° C. to 200° C.
Yet another aspect of the present disclosure concerns the use of at least one amine chosen from secondary and tertiary amines as an active agent for permanently shaping keratin fibers.
The present disclosure also relates to an active agent for permanently shaping keratin fibers, by means of a beta-elimination reaction producing dehydroalanine and leading to the formation of lanthionine, comprising at least one amine chosen from secondary and tertiary amines.
Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients, reaction conditions, and so forth used in the specification and claims are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term “about.” Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical parameters set forth in the specification and attached claims are approximations that may vary depending upon the desired properties sought to be obtained by the present invention. At the very least, and not as an attempt to limit the application of the doctrine of equivalents to the scope of the claims, each numerical parameter should be construed in light of the number of significant digits and ordinary rounding approaches.
Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters setting forth the broad scope of the invention are approximations, the numerical values set forth in the specific example are reported as precisely as possible. Any numerical value, however, inherently contain certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective testing measurements.
The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention in a non-limiting manner. In the examples, unless otherwise indicated, the percentages and parts are expressed on a weight basis.
A simplified permanent waving composition was prepared, comprising 1,4,7-trimethyl-1,4,7-triazacyclononane at a concentration of 1M in water, as the permanent waving active agent. The pH of the composition was 13.0. This composition was applied to Caucasian hair, which had been put in curlers beforehand, and left for 30 minutes at a temperature of 50° C. The hair was rinsed and dried. The hair had beautiful curls and felt soft.
A simplified permanent waving composition was prepared, comprising 1,4,7-trimethyl-1,4,7-triazacyclononane at a concentration of 0.1M in water, as the permanent waving active agent. The pH of the composition was 12.5. This composition was applied to Caucasian hair, which had been put in curlers beforehand, and left for 40 minutes at a temperature of 50° C. The hair was rinsed and dried. The hair had beautiful curls and felt soft.
A simplified permanent waving composition was prepared, comprising 1,4,7-triazacyclononane at a concentration of 0.2M in water, as the permanent waving active agent. The pH of the composition was 12.1. This composition was applied to Caucasian hair, which had been put in curlers beforehand, and left for 40 minutes at a temperature of 50° C. The hair was rinsed and dried. The hair had beautiful curls and felt soft.
A simplified permanent waving composition was prepared, comprising 1,4,7-triazacyclononane at a concentration of 2M in water, as the permanent waving active agent. The pH of the composition was 12.8. This composition was applied to Caucasian hair, which had been put in curlers beforehand, and left for 30 minutes at a temperature of 50° C. The hair was rinsed and dried. The hair had beautiful curls and felt soft.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0350854 | Nov 2003 | FR | national |
This application claims benefit of U.S. Provisional Application No. 60/562,552, filed Apr. 16, 2004.
| Number | Date | Country | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 60562552 | Apr 2004 | US |
| Number | Date | Country | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Parent | 10989584 | Nov 2004 | US |
| Child | 12365603 | US |
