Hem former and sewing apparatus

Information

  • Patent Grant
  • 6186084
  • Patent Number
    6,186,084
  • Date Filed
    Thursday, July 22, 1999
    24 years ago
  • Date Issued
    Tuesday, February 13, 2001
    23 years ago
Abstract
An air assisted hem former for folding a margin of a foldable material which uses at least one stream of air to urge margin material through a folded cavity. The folded cavity and airflow moves the margin toward a sewing needle, directs the margin material to a proper stitching position and maintain the stitching position until the needle has stitched the hem. Two similarly formed hem formers can be mounted on opposing sides of a sewing needle to urge, direct and maintain the margin material prior to stitching of a hem.
Description




BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION




1. Field of the Invention




The present invention relates in general to an apparatus for folding margins of flexible materials and, more particularly, to an air enhanced hem former to be used with a sewing machine.




2. Description of the Prior Art




Materials used in the manufacture of clothing, such as cotton, polyester, rayon and other cloth materials invariably have an end, or margin. The margin is typically folded and sewn to form a hem. The hem provides strength to the clothing, prevents fraying, evens the length of the margin, and allows for subsequent length adjustments. Hems are formed in a variety of ways.




One common method of forming a hem is to manually fold the margin back onto the material and then hand or machine stitch the margin to the material. However, this method is very time consuming and requires skilled operators. Another common method of forming a hem uses a thin plate to fold the margin around and then back onto the material. Once the margin is so positioned, an operator can hand or machine stitch the margin to the material. However, it is often difficult, if not impossible, for an operator to quickly and accurately fold the margin around the plate and into position for stitching.




To overcome the problems relating to quickly and accurately folding the margin into a proper stitching position, streams of compressed air have been used. One such design is illustrated by U.S. Pat. No. 3,631,826 issued to Morgan. Morgan apparently discloses a hem former in which the path traveled by the margin during sewing uses an airflow outlet formed below the margin and below a support plate, with the airflow perpendicular thereto. A deflector


44


,


58


perpendicularly deflects the airflow toward the margin so that the margin is carried by the airstream toward the sewing needle whereas other airstreams guide the margin through multiple folds for stitching parallel to the margin. However, this airstream design causes the margin to flutter when in the airstream and inefficiently directs the margin toward the stitching needle because of the 90° angle change which the airstream undergoes. Further, margin positioning is not maintained during stitching.




Another air enhanced hem former design is illustrated by U.S. Pat. No. 5,441,004 issued to Bottoms. Bottoms apparently discloses an airflow outlet that is angularly formed toward the rear bottom portion of a support plate


22


. The margin is manually urged across the plate, then vertically downward below the plate, and only then does the margin


13


enter the airstream. Thus, an operator must manually urge the material across the plate and then vertically downward over the edge of the pate before the margin enters the airstream


37


. Only after this manual urging can the airstream fold and direct the margin into position for stitching. However, manual urging of the margin can cause the margin to snag, bunch, or misalign before entering into the airstream.




Additionally, the prior art does not address the problem of maintaining the margin in a proper position after being directed by the airstream. Thus, after the airstream folds and directs the margin but before the stitching process is completed, the margin can become mispositioned. This results in improperly stitched margins.




There is thus a need for a hem former which urges the material toward the needle, directs the material to a proper sewing position and maintains this proper sewing position until the needle has stitched the hem.




SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION




The present invention provides a hem former which uses at least one stream of pressurized air to urge a margin of a material toward a needle, direct the margin to a proper stitching position, and maintain this proper stitching position until the needle has stitched the hem.




One aspect of the invention involves an air-enhanced hem former for folding a margin of a foldable material to be stitched. The hem former has a first, generally U-shaped cavity having first and second legs and a bottom joining the legs. The cavity is sized to allow air to carry the margin through the cavity. At least one outlet opens into the first leg and is directed toward the bottom to introduce an airstream into the cavity. The outlet may be located along the first leg and before the bottom.




The hem former described above may further comprise a second, generally U-shaped cavity having first and second legs and a bottom joining the legs. The second cavity is also sized to allow the airstream to carry the margin through the second cavity. At least one outlet opens into the first leg of the second cavity and is directed toward the bottom of the second cavity to introduce an airstream into the second cavity. The outlet may be located along the first leg and before the bottom of the second cavity. If two such hem formers are used, they are aligned so a margin can be inserted through each hem former, and are spaced apart a distance sufficient to allow a needle to sew the margin between the hem formers.




Another aspect of the present invention includes an air-assisted sewing apparatus comprising a first cavity having a U-shaped portion formed by a first and second generally parallel legs joined by a curved bottom. The first leg has an end opposite the bottom that forms an opening into which the margin is introduced to the cavity. An outlet is in fluid communication with an air source and orientated to introduce an airstream into the first leg directed toward the bottom. The size of the first cavity and the airstream cooperate to move the margin through the cavity to an end of the second leg. Also, a second apparatus having a second cavity constructed as the first cavity, may be used. If used, the second cavity is generally parallel to and separated from the first cavity a distance sufficient to allow a needle to stitch the margin between the cavities.




Yet another aspect of the invention involves a sewing apparatus which has a first passageway with a U-shaped portion formed by a first and second generally parallel legs joined by a curved bottom. The first leg of the U-shaped portion has an end opposite the bottom that forms an opening into which the margin is introduced to the passageway. A first airflow means is in fluid communication with the first leg for moving the margin through the passageway to an end of the second leg. Optionally, the sewing apparatus may further include a second passageway having a U-shaped portion formed by first and second generally parallel legs joined by a curved bottom. If used, the first leg of the second passageway has an end opposite the bottom that forms an opening into which the margin is introduced to the second passageway. A second airflow means in fluid communication with the first leg of the second passageway moves the margin through the second passageway to an end of the second leg of the second passageway. The second passageway may be aligned with the first passageway and separated from the first passageway a distance sufficient to allow a needle to stitch the margin between the passageways.




The present invention also includes a method for folding a margin of a foldable material to be stitched. The method comprises the steps of introducing the margin into a first, generally U-shaped cavity having first and second legs and a bottom joining the legs. Sizing the cavity to allow air to carry the margin through the cavity. Passing air through at least one outlet opening into the first leg and directed toward the bottom to form an airstream in the cavity. Locating the outlet along the first leg and before the bottom, with the airstream moving the margin through the cavity to an end of the second leg opposite the bottom to form the folded margin. Further optional steps may include introducing the margin into a second, generally U-shaped cavity having first and second legs and a bottom joining the legs. Sizing the second cavity to allow air to carry the margin through the second cavity. Passing air through at least one outlet opening into the first leg of the second cavity and directed toward the bottom to form an airstream in the second cavity. Locating the outlet in the second cavity along the first leg and before the bottom of the second cavity, with the airstream moving the margin through the cavity to an end of the second leg opposite the bottom to form the folded margin. Spacing the first and second cavities apart a distance sufficient to stitch the margin between the cavities, and stitching the margin.




Further aspects, features and advantages of the present invention will become apparent from the detailed description of the preferred embodiment that follows.











BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS




The above-mentioned and other features of the invention will now be addressed with reference to the drawings of a preferred embodiment of the present hem forming device. The illustrated embodiment of the hem former is intended to illustrate, but not limit the invention. The drawings contain the following figures, in which like numbers refer to like parts, throughout the description and drawings.





FIG. 1

is a perspective view of a hem former attached to a conventional sewing machine in accordance with the present invention;





FIG. 2

is a detail view of the hem former illustrated in

FIG. 1

;





FIG. 3A

is a side elevation view of a cavity in the hem former along cut lines


3





3


and shows an airstream entering an inlet port and exiting an outlet port;





FIG. 3B

is a side elevation view of the cavity of the hem former along cut lines


3





3


and shows an airstream entering the inlet port, urging and directing a margin around a tongue, and exiting the outlet ports;





FIG. 4

is a perspective view of the passageway formed in a block portion of the hem former; and





FIG. 5

is a perspective view of the underside of the block portion of the hem former and details the outlet ports.











DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENT




The hem former described herein employs some basic concepts, such as a substantially flat planar tongue; one or more blocks with a passageway; a passageway which provides ingress and egress for an airflow; and an airflow within a folded cavity which urges, directs and/or maintains the margin material in a proper position for subsequent stitching of a hem.




An overview of the hem former is provided below, followed by a more detailed explanation. Referring to

FIGS. 1-3

, a block


20


extends above the surface of a plate


18


. The block


20


has an exterior surface and an opening


30


, such as a slot, formed in one side to form an opposing, interior surface


44


facing the plate


18


. The opening


30


is elongated and advantageously has a curved end


42


so that air flowing along the interior surface


44


of block


20


toward the end


42


is guided by the curved end


42


to reverse directions and subsequently flow along the plate


18


away from the curved end


42


.




An elongated support structure


64


also extends above the surface of the plate


18


. The support


64


has an exterior surface


32


and an opposing interior surface


34


, both formed on a tongue


36


. The tongue


36


placed into the opening


30


so the exterior surface


32


of the support


64


faces the interior surface


44


of the block


20


, but is spaced apart therefrom a distance to accommodate margin


13


. The interior surface


34


of the support


64


faces, and is spaced apart from, the plate


18


to form a space sufficient to accommodate margin


13


. The tongue


36


cooperates with the opening


30


to form a folded cavity


72


having a general “U” shape in cross-section, with the curved end


42


forming the bottom of the “U”.




At least one opening, and preferably two openings or outlets


54


,


56


are located in the block


20


toward one end of a first leg


41


of the “U” shaped cavity


72


. The outlets are in fluid communication with a fluid source, preferably air. The outlets


54


,


56


are orientated so that air exiting from the outlets is directed toward the curved end


42


. The outlets


54


,


56


are sized and angled, and the air flow is sufficient so that the air engages a margin


13


and moves the margin


13


through the “U” shaped cavity


72


. The air flow thus moves from the adjacent free end of the first leg


41


of the “U” shaped cavity


72


, toward the curved, bottom


42


of the “U” and then toward the blind end of a second leg


43


of the “U” shaped channel


72


. The margin


13


is engaged by the air flow adjacent the free end of the first leg


41


of the “U” shaped cavity


72


.




The size and length of the “U” shaped cavity


72


, and the material forming the margin


13


, affect the air flow needed to move the margin


13


through the cavity


72


. Further, one or both of the block


20


,


74


and support


64


,


76


may be moved relative to one another to change the shape, geometry or dimensions of the cavity


72


.




The second leg


43


of the “U” shaped cavity


72


, between the plate


18


and the support


64


, advantageously has a blind end


17


that terminates adjacent to the support


64


. The location of that blind end


17


is selected so when the margin


13


is located at the end


17


, a hem of appropriate length is formed. Alternatively, the length of the tongue


36


and the opening


30


in the block


20


may be changed to allow hems of differing length. While the end


17


is blind, the cavity


72


advantageously opens onto opposing sides of the support


64


and block


20


.




The outlets


54


,


56


are angled at about 20 to 60 degrees relative to a plane through the outlets


54


,


56


and generally parallel to the tongue


36


which forms the first leg


41


of the “U” shaped cavity


72


. To help the margin


13


enter the cavity


72


, a free end of the block


20


may have at least a first taper


46


to form a larger opening between the exterior surface


32


of the support


64


and the facing, interior surface


44


of the block


20


, which opening narrows toward the outlets


54


,


56


. Thus, the margin


13


is manually urged into the enlarged opening of the cavity


72


whereupon the air from outlets


54


,


56


urges the margin through the cavity


72


.




As mentioned, the outlets


54


,


56


are advantageously located adjacent a proximal end


26


of the block


20


, toward a free end of the first leg


41


of the “U” shaped cavity


72


. Advantageously, the outlets


54


,


56


are located immediately downstream of the enlarged opening


30


and more advantageously within the first half of the length of the first leg


41


of the “U” shaped channel


72


in which the outlets


54


,


56


are located, and preferably between ⅓and ⅔of the length of the first leg


41


. However, it is believed suitable to place the outlets


54


,


56


anywhere along the length of the first leg


41


of the “U” shaped cavity


72


, directed toward the curved end


15


of the cavity


72


.




To assist in the description of the components and operation of the hem former, the following coordinate terms are used. Referring to

FIG. 1

, a horizonal axis X—X extends along the depth of the hem former, from a proximal end of the device to a distal end of the device. A vertical axis, Y—Y is generally perpendicular to the horizontal axis and extends along the vertical height of the hem former. A lateral axis Z—Z extends along the width of the hem former from a first side of the device to a second side of the device.




Referring to

FIGS. 1-3

, a conventional sewing machine


10


has a sewing bed


12


, sewing head


14


and sewing needle


16


. A material


11


to be hemmed has an end or margin


13


. The hem former


2


has a first block


20


with at least one inlet port


50


and at least one outlet port and advantageously two outlet ports


54


,


56


. A passageway


84


(

FIG. 3A

) connects the inlet port(s)


50


with the outlet ports


54


,


56


and is configured such that an airstream can flow through the passageway


84


. An operator advances a margin


13


of material


11


along the X—X axis, over a first support


64


and toward the first block


20


. When so advanced, the margin


13


communicates with the airstream and is urged, folded and directed into position for subsequent stitching. The air stream engages the surface of the margin


11


that faces the interior surface


44


to urge the margin through the first leg


41


. The air stream is generally interposed between the plate


18


and the margin


11


while urging the margin


11


through the second leg


43


. Preferably, a second block


74


and second support


76


(i.e., second assembly


78


) is constructed and used in a manner similar to the first block


20


and first support


64


(i.e. first assembly


77


). The first and second assemblies


77


,


78


are laterally spaced apart along the Z—Z axis so that a sewing needle


16


is positioned between the assemblies


77


,


78


(FIG.


1


). The assemblies


77


,


78


and airstream maintain the margin


13


in position until the hem is stitched.




Components




As illustrated in

FIG. 1

, the hem former


2


is advantageously formed on a substantially flat surface, such as a metal or plastic plate


18


. Preferably, the plate


18


is configured to generally conform to the shape of a conventional sewing bed


12


. The plate


18


allows the hem former


2


to be easily transported as a unitary member and positioned with respect to the sewing machine


10


. The plate


18


can be removably attached to the sewing bed


12


by suitable means such as threaded fasteners (nuts and bolts), clamps, clips, adhesives, velcro, magnets, friction locks and the like. The illustrated embodiment depicts a screw


19


located toward the comers of the hem former


2


. However, the plate


18


can also be permanently affixed to the sewing bed


12


by suitable means such as bolting, soldering or adhesives. Permanent affixation is preferred if the same material


11


to be hemmed is used with the same sewing machine


10


for prolonged periods, because, once properly set up, subsequent adjustment is not needed. Alternatively, the hem former


2


can be permanently mounted directly onto the sewing bed


12


without use of the plate


18


.





FIGS. 2-3

show a generally inverted L-shaped first block


20


. The block


20


has a free, proximal end


26


and a distal end


28


positioned toward opposing ends of the block


20


along the longitudinal X—X axis. The block


20


comprises an L-shaped member having a short, vertical section


22


and a longer, horizontal section


24


. The vertical section


22


preferably has a substantially flat distal end which corresponds with the distal end


28


of the block


20


and a proximal end which corresponds with the curved end


42


of the opening


30


. The curved end


42


advantageously forms a substantially U-shaped curve with a radius of curvature of approximately 0.2 to 2 mm. However, the curved end


42


may be curved to a greater or lesser extent or even be curvilinear, linear or angled so long as the curved end


42


can direct a stream of air (explained below). The horizontal section


24


of the block


20


has a substantially flat upperside and a substantially flat underside


44


which corresponds with the interior surface


44


of the block


20


.




The block may incorporate a protuberance or plurality of protuberances.

FIG. 2

shows a protuberance


45


located toward the distal end


28


of the block


20


. The protuberance, if used, allows the block


20


to be form-fit around the sewing machine


10


, needle


16


or other element. Similarly, the block


20


may incorporate an indent, depression, hollow or plurality of thereof (not shown) to similarly allow the block


20


to be form-fit around the sewing machine


10


, needle


16


or other element.




Still referring to

FIGS. 2-3

, the proximal end


26


of the block


20


is optionally tapered so that the block


20


can better accommodate an internal passageway (detailed below). The proximal end


26


has a first taper


46


angled at approximately 30 to 50 degrees below the horizontal X—X axis and extends approximately 0.2 to 2 mm toward the distal end


28


of the block


20


. Advantageously, a second taper


48


communicates with the first taper


46


. The second taper


48


is angled approximately 20 to 40 degrees relative to the horizontal, X—X axis and extends approximately 0.2 to 2 mm toward the distal end


28


of the block


20


. Again, there is no requirement that one or more tapers be used. Rather, the free, proximal end


26


of the block


20


can be geometrically arranged in a linear, curved, curvilinear or angular manner so long as it does not interfere with the passageway (detailed below).




As illustrated in

FIGS. 3 and 4

, the block


20


has at least one inlet port and at least one outlet port to provide an avenue for air flow. Preferably, the block


20


has one inlet port and two outlet ports. However, as will be understood by one skilled in the art and explained below, there is no requirement that an ascertained quantity of inlet and outlet ports be used.





FIG. 3A

shows an inlet port


50


formed on the distal end


26


of the block


20


which connects to a pressurized air source (not shown) by an intake connector


86


. However, the inlet port


50


may be formed anywhere on the block


20


so long as the inlet port


50


provides ingress for pressurized air flow. The inlet port


50


is advantageously geometrically configured as a circle for ease of manufacture, however, other configurations such as a oval, square, polygon or the like may be used. The diameter of the inlet port


50


is preferably 0.2 to 2 mm and more preferably about 0.5 mm. However, these dimensions will vary depending on the application of the hem former


2


. For example, thicker materials may require a larger, stronger airstream and thus a larger inlet port


50


.




Two outlet ports


54


,


56


are preferably formed vertically above a centerline X′—X′. The centerline X′—X′ is parallel to the bottom of the tongue


36


. Two outlet ports arranged on the underside


44


of the horizontal section


24


of the block


20


. However, the outlet ports


54


,


56


may be formed anywhere on the block


20


so long as the outlet ports


54


,


56


provide ingress for pressurized air flow.

FIG. 5

more closely illustrates the first and second outlet ports


54


,


56


.





FIGS. 3 and 5

best show the preferred locations of the first and second outlet ports


54


,


56


with respect to the block


20


. Preferably, there is a distance of approximately 0.2 to 2 mm between the first outlet port


54


and the first side


30


of the block


20


, and a similar distance of approximately 0.2 to 2 mm between the second outlet port


56


and the second side


32


of the block


20


. The first and second outlet ports


54


,


56


are spaced apart a distance of approximately 0.4 to 4 mm. However, these dimensions will vary depending on the application of the hem former


2


. For example, thicker materials may require a larger, stronger airstream and thus a smaller spacing between ports. If a taper is used, the outlet ports are preferably located along the horizontal X—X axis beyond the taper.




The outlet ports


54


,


56


are advantageously tubes having a circular cross section, but because the outlet ports


54


,


56


exit the interior surface


44


of the block


20


at an angle, the outlet ports


55


,


56


are substantially oval shaped when viewed perpendicular to the plane formed by the X-Z plane rather than circularly shaped. Similarly, if the tube forming outlet ports


54


,


56


is configured as a square cross-section, then this orientation would cause the outlet ports


54


,


56


to be substantially rectangularly shaped when so viewed.




The outlet ports may be tapered or otherwise modified to more precisely direct the airstream, as will be understood by one skilled in the art. For example, the outlet ports may be funnel-shaped to concentrate the airstream or inverse funnel-shaped to disperse the airstream. Similarly, the outlet ports can comprise a relatively large quantity (10-100 or more) of small orifices arranged and/or dispersed about the block


20


to direct the airstream. Air exists the outlet ports


54


,


56


at an angle so the airstream impacts the surface


32


of the tongue


36


at an angle of about 20 to 60 degrees.





FIG. 4

shows a passageway


84


which connects the inlet and outlet ports


50


,


54


,


56


. The passageway


84


provides an avenue for air flow. The passageway


84


preferable has a first path


60


, a second path


62


, and a third path


63


. The first path


60


extends from the inlet port


50


toward the proximal end


26


of the block


20


substantially along the horizontal X—X axis. The second path


62


is preferably perpendicular to the first path


60


and runs substantially along the Z—Z axis. The length of the second path


62


extends substantially along the lateral width of the block


20


. The third path


63


communicates with the second path


62


and outlets


52


,


54


. The path


62


and outlets


52


,


54


are angled approximately 20 to 60 degrees below the horizontal X-Z plane when the block


20


is orientated as shown in FIG.


1


. The passageway need not be internal to the block


20


. Rather, the passageway can be formed by other suitable devices, such as a hollow tube coupled to the block


20


or similar structure.





FIGS. 2 and 3

illustrate a support


64


with a substantially flat planar tongue


36


. The tongue


36


extends along the X-Z plane axes toward the distal end


28


of the block


20


. A ramp


70


is optionally formed integrally with the tongue


36


so that the material


11


can be elevated from the sewing bed


12


to the tongue


36


. The ramp


70


allows the material


11


to remain in communication with the support


64


so that the hem operator need only slide the material


11


up the ramp


70


rather than pick up the material and place it on the support


64


.




The tongue


36


is interposed between the interior surface


44


of the block


20


and the plate


18


. When so arranged, a folded cavity


72


is formed between the tongue


36


and block


20


.




Referring to

FIGS. 1 and 2

, the hem former


2


may optionally use a second block


72


and a second support


76


forming a second assembly


78


that is identical to the first assembly


77


and differs only in position with respect to the sewing machine


10


. If a second assembly


78


is used, the first and second assemblies


77


,


78


are laterally spaced apart with the sewing needle


16


positioned between the first and second assemblies


77


,


78


. The first and second assemblies


77


,


78


are preferably symmetrically located on opposing sides of the needle


16


, with a distance of approximately 2 to 20 mm between the first assembly


77


and the needle


16


and a distance of approximately 2 to 20 mm between the second assembly


78


and the needle


16


. However, the dimensions and orientation will vary depending on the application of the hem former


2


. For example, thicker materials will require a larger, stronger air stream and thus a closer orientation of the assemblies


77


,


78


.




The first assembly


77


and second assembly


78


(if used) are preferably moveable relative to the sewing bed


12


. That is, the assembly(s)


77


,


78


can be horizontally adjusted along the X—X axis to best position the assemblies


77


,


78


with respect to material


11


to be hemmed and the needle


16


. Suitable incremental adjustment devices comprises a groove and notches respectively formed on the hem former


2


and sewing bed


12


(or plate


18


), a nut and bolt assembly, a pin and a series of receptacles, a ladder and rung, paired ribs and grooves and the like. The assemblies


77


,


78


can similarly be laterally adjusted along the Z—Z axis to best position the assemblies


77


,


78


with respect to material


11


to be hemmed and the needle


16


. A suitable adjustment device similar to the horizontal adjustment device is used. This horizontal and transverse moveable element (not shown) allows the hem former to quickly and easily adjust for different types of materials.




A connector (not shown) forms a flat planar surface between the sewing needle


16


and sewing bed


14


and is generally level with the supports


64


,


76


. The connector supports the material


11


located between the first and second assemblies


77


,


78


. The connector has an opening directly below the needle


16


. The opening insures that the needle


16


does not contact the sewing bed


12


, plate


18


, support


64


or any other element when the hem is stitched. The connector can take the form of a separate element or can be integrally formed with the first and second assemblies


77


,


78


or portions thereof.




Operation




If a hem former


2


with the first and second assembly


77


,


78


is used, the assemblies


77


,


78


are preferably laterally disposed between the sewing needle


16


. If only the first assembly


77


is used, the assembly is preferably laterally disposed adjacent to the sewing needle


16


. Because the operation of the hem former


2


is preferably identical if either one or two assemblies are used and differs only in the position relative to the needle


16


, the description will detail only the operation when the first and second assemblies


77


,


78


are used and it is understood that a single assembly may operate in a like manner.




As depicted in

FIG. 3A

, an air flow


84


is introduced into the inlet port


50


by conventional means such as a pressurized air source or compressor (not shown). An intake connector


86


connects the pressurized air to the inlet port


50


. The air pressure is adjusted by conventional pressure and release values (not shown).

FIG. 4

shows an optional bleed valve


90


. The bleed value


90


connects to the second path


62


. When the value


90


is in an open position, air can escape through the valve


90


, thereby lowering the air pressure along the outlet ports


54


,


56


. Varying the amount the valve


90


is closed or open, varies the air pressure along the outlet ports


54


,


56


.




The air is preferably at a pressure of 10 to 50 pounds per square inch (psi) and more preferably 20 to 40 psi. However, the flow rate can easily vary approximately +/− 30% when a t-shirt material of conventional size and thickness is used. If thicker material is to be hemmed, for example a wool pant leg, then the air pressure should preferably be at a pressure of 30 to 80 psi and more preferably 40 to 50 psi, although this flow rate can easily vary at approximately +/− 30%. If too little pressure is used, the airstream will have insufficient force to urge the margin


13


. Similarly, if too great of a pressure is used, the airstream will have too much force and urge the margin


13


so that it bunches at the blind end


17


. Thus, irrespective of the above exemplary pressure quantities, the best pressure amount to be used is that which allows the margin to be urged toward and around the curved end


15


so that the margin


13


reverses direction at the curved end


15


, and continues toward the blind end


17


without significantly bunching at the blind end


17


such that sewing a hem would be significantly inhibited.




Referring back to

FIG. 3A

, once the air is introduced into the inlet port


50


, the air flows through the passageway


84


toward the outlet ports


55


,


56


. As explained above, the outlet ports


54


,


56


are preferably configured to direct the airstream in an angular direction with respect to the sewing bed. When so directed the airstream flows through the folded cavity


72


. Expressed in different terms, the airstream is substantially constrained to flow between the interior surface


44


of the block


20


and the tongue


36


. Due to the angle at which the airstream exits from the outlet ports


54


,


56


, the airstream is further directed toward the distal end


28


of the block


20


until it contacts the curved end


42


of the folded cavity


72


. The shape of the curved end


42


and the outlet port


54


,


56


pressure then redirects the airstream around and below the tongue


36


. After such reversal of direction, the airstream flows between the tongue


36


and the plate


18


toward the proximal end


26


of the block.




As shown in

FIG. 3B

, an operator can slide the material


11


up the ramp


70


and onto the tongue


36


, with the margin


13


forming a leading edge. As the margin


13


continues in this direction, it enters the airstream that is directed toward the tongue


36


and toward the curved end


42


. Upon entering the airstream, the margin


13


is carried by the airstream in the same direction as the airstream, that is, through the folded cavity


72


.




This action by the airstream on the margin


13


is especially effective because the airstream directly communicates with the margin


13


before the margin


13


is deflected, altered or otherwise inhibited by the tongue


36


or any other element. Thus, positioning the airstream and margin


13


so that they communicate with each other before the airstream communicates with any other element (after egressing from the outlet ports


54


,


56


) is especially important. The illustrated embodiment achieves this preferential action by positioning the margin


13


between the outlet ports


54


,


56


and the tongue


36


.




The positioning of the outlet ports


54


,


56


on the interior surface


44


of the block


20


and above the tongue


36


is also preferred because it reduces the effort required of the hem operator. That is, this positioning only requires that the operator push the material


11


up the ramp


70


and onto the tongue


36


. After so positioning, the airstream does the rest of the work to urge, fold and position the margin


13


. By this design, operator error which can cause snagging or misalignment of the material


11


is overcome. Equally important, additional operator time to further direct the margin is not required.




As will be understood by one skilled in the art, other designs can be used to achieve the same preferential airstream action. For example, the orientation of the hem former


2


can be inverted such that the airstream emanates from below the tongue


36


and the margin


13


enters from below the tongue


36


.




The maintenance of the proper hem forming position is preferably achieved by cooperative use of the first and second assemblies


77


,


78


. That is, when the first and second assemblies


77


,


78


are used, the margin is folded back on opposing sides of the needle


16


and across the upper surface of the support


64


. By folding the material


11


back on both sides of the needle


16


, the proper margin


13


positioning can be better maintained than if the margin


13


was only folded back on one side of the needle


16


. When only one hem former is used, the margin has a tendency to turn, cant or rock from the unidirection application of the airstream force. When dual hem fonners are positioned on opposing sides of the margin, the turning, canting or rocking is minimized and potentially eliminated, thus maintaining the margin on opposing sides until the needle has stitched the hem.




A proper hem forming position can also be better achieved by adjusting the lateral distance between the assemblies


77


,


78


as described above. This lateral movement of the assemblies


77


,


78


allows the airstream force to vary with respect to the material


11


and needle


16


. Thus, different margin


13


thicknesses can be stitched without having to necessarily modify the air pressure.




It is also understood that the invention can operate in a manner where the airflow, instead of being blown through the passageway


84


, is sucked from the passageway


84


. Thus, instead of forcing pressurized air into an inlet port(s) and through the passageway


84


, air is sucked from the inlet port(s) and through the passageway


84


by a vacuum or similar apparatus. Also, the invention can operate through the use of gases other than air depending on the particular needs. For example, inert gasses such as nitrogen, reactive gasses, or combinations thereof.




In the preferred embodiment, the assemblies are constructed of stainless steel. Stainless steel is chosen for its strength, ease of manufacture and low cost. Moreover, stainless steel can be polished to a smooth surface which assists the airstream in urging, directing and maintaining a proper position of the margin material for subsequent stitching of a hem. However, there is no requirement that stainless steel be used. Rather, other metals, plastics, composites and the like may be used depending on the requirements which are demanded of the device.




The hem former is discussed in the context of a sewing apparatus which can fold a margin of a foldable material and then stitch the margin onto the material to form a hem. However, it should be understood that the present invention is applicable to other foldable materials. For example, paper, thin plastic, rubber and the like can be folded and stitched by the device of the present invention. One skilled in the art may find additional applications for the device disclosed herein. Thus, the illustration and description of the hem former in connection with a sewing machine is merely exemplary of one possible application of the apparatus for folding margins.




The embodiments illustrated and described above are provided merely as examples of the folding apparatus constructed in accordance with the present invention. Other changes and modifications can be made from the embodiments presented herein by those skilled in the art without departure from the spirit and scope of the invention, as defined by the appended claims.



Claims
  • 1. An air-enhanced hem former for folding a margin of a foldable material to be stitched, comprising:a first cavity having first and second legs separated by a tongue and a bottom joining the legs at a distal end of the tongue, the cavity sized to allow air to carry the margin through the cavity; at least one outlet introducing air into the first leg and directed toward the bottom, the outlet being located before the bottom, whereby the margin is stitched while the margin rests in the cavity.
  • 2. The hem former as defined in claim 1, wherein the outlet is located at an end of a passageway formed internally within a block, the block defining at least part of the cavity.
  • 3. The hem former as defined in claim 1 wherein the outlet is located at an end of a passageway formed external to a block, the block defining at least part of the cavity.
  • 4. The hem former as defined in claim 3, wherein the outlet is located to direct air toward an end of the first leg.
  • 5. The hem former as defined in claim 4, wherein the passageway is defined by a hollow tube and the outlet defined by the end of the tube.
  • 6. The hem former as defined in claim 5, wherein the tube is coupled to the block.
  • 7. The hem former as defined in claim 3, wherein the passageway is defined by a hollow tube and the outlet defined by the end of the tube.
  • 8. The hem former as defined in claim 7, wherein the tube is coupled to the block.
  • 9. The hem former as defined in claim 1, wherein the bottom is curved.
  • 10. The hem former as defined in claim 1, wherein the first leg is generally linear and extends along a longitudinal axis.
  • 11. The hem former as defined in claim 1, wherein the second leg is generally linear and extends along a longitudinal axis.
  • 12. The hem former as defined in claim 1, further comprising a second cavity having first and second legs and a bottom joining the legs, the second cavity sized to allow the air to carry the margin through the second cavity, at least one outlet introducing air into the first leg of the second cavity and directed toward the bottom of the second cavity, the outlet being located before the bottom of the second cavity, the first and second cavities being aligned so a margin can be inserted through the first and second cavities, the first and second cavities being spaced apart a distance sufficient to allow a needle to sew the margin between the cavities.
  • 13. The hem former as defined in claim 1, wherein the bottom is curved.
  • 14. The hem former as defined in claim 13, wherein the bottom is generally U-shaped.
  • 15. The hem former as defined in claim 1, wherein the first leg is generally linear and extends along a longitudinal axis.
  • 16. The hem former as defined in claim, wherein the second leg is generally linear and extends along a longitudinal axis.
  • 17. The hem former as defined in claim 1, wherein the cavity is generally U-shaped.
  • 18. The hem former as defined in claim 1, wherein the first cavity is formed by two separate, stationary pieces.
  • 19. A sewing machine for folding and stitching a margin of a foldable material to form a hem on the foldable material, comprising:a sewing assembly having a substantially planar sewing bed connected to a sewing head with a reciprocating sewing needle depending therefrom, the sewing needle oriented toward the sewing bed; a stationarv block coupled to the sewing bed and having an elongated recess; and a tongue interposed between the elongated recess of the block and the sewing bed, the block and tongue defining a cavity having first and second legs and a bottom joining the legs at a distal end of the tongue, the cavity sized to allow air to carry the margin through the cavity and into the second leg, at least one outlet in fluid communication with an air supply and introducing air into the first leg and directed toward the bottom, the outlet being located before the bottom, whereby the air advances the margin through the cavity such that the sewing needle can stitch the margin of foldable material to form a hem.
  • 20. The hem former as defined in claim 19, wherein the block and the tongue are fixed to a substantially planar stationary plate and the plate, in turn, is attached to the sewing bed.
  • 21. The hem former as defined in claim 20, where the block and tongue are fixed to the plate by welding and the plate is attached to the sewing bed by a plurality of screws.
  • 22. A method of manufacturing an article of clothing having a hem formed thereon, the method comprising:providing a sewing machine having a substantially planar sewing bed and a sewing head with a sewing needle depending therefrom, the sewing needle oriented toward the sewing bed; providing a cavity coupled to the sewing bed having first and second legs and a bottom joining the legs, the cavity sized to allow air to carry a foldable margin through the cavity, at least one outlet located before the bottom; introducing air through the outlet and into the first leg and directed toward the bottom; urging a margin of the article of clothing toward the first leg of the cavity; allowing the air to direct the margin through the cavity so as to fold the margin; and stitching the folded margin onto the article of clothing to form the hem while the folded margin rests in the cavity.
  • 23. The method as in claim 22, wherein the air directs the margin through the cavity so as to fold the margin around at lest a portion of the tongue.
  • 24. A method of forming a hem on an article of clothing, using a sewing machine having a sewing bed and a sewing head with a sewing needle depending therefrom, the sewing needle oriented toward the sewing bed; and a hem former coupled to the sewing bed and having a first cavity with first and second legs separated by a tongue and a bottom joining the legs, comprising the steps of:placing at least one outlet in fluid communication with the first leg and before the bottom and introducing air into the first leg through the outlet and directed toward the bottom; urging a margin of the article of clothing toward the first leg of the cavity; allowing the air to direct the margin through the first leg and into the second leg so as to fold the margin, the first cavity being sized to allow the air to move the margin through the cavity; and stitching the folded margin to form the hem while the folded margin rests in the cavity.
  • 25. The method as in claim 24, wherein a second cavity having first and second legs and a bottom joining the legs and aligned with the first cavity is placed adjacent the first cavity but spaced apart therefrom so the needle can pass between the adjacent cavities, comprising the further steps of:placing at least one outlet in fluid communication with a first leg of the second cavity and before a bottom of the second cavity and introducing air into the first leg of the second cavity through the outlet in the first leg of the second cavity, the outlet being directed toward the bottom of the second cavity; urging the margin of the article of clothing toward the first leg of the second cavity at the same time the margin is urged toward the first leg of the first cavity; allowing the air to direct the margin through the first leg of each cavity and into the second leg of each cavity so as to fold the margin, the second leg of the second cavity being sized to allow the air to move the margin through the second cavity; and stitching the folded margin between the first and second cavities to form the hem.
  • 26. An air-enhanced hem former for folding a margin of a foldable material, comprising:a pathway having first and second regions separated by a tongue and a bottom joining the regions at a distal end of the tongue, the pathway sized to allow air to carry the margin through the pathway from the first region into the second region such that when the margin is in the pathway the margin is in a folded configuration; at least one fluid source configured to introduce fluid toward the bottom to direct the margin into the second region, wherein the margin is stitched while the margin rests in the pathway.
  • 27. The hem former as defined in claim 26, wherein the second region is a cavity.
  • 28. The hem former as defined in claim 26, wherein the first and second regions are substantially parallel to one another.
Parent Case Info

This application is a continuation of U.S. Ser. No. 09/079,657 filed May 15, 1998, now U.S. Pat. No. 6,003,456.

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3252437 Pickett May 1966
3631826 Morgan Jan 1972
3776156 Morgan Dec 1973
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4488466 Jones Dec 1984
4506613 Ragnebring Mar 1985
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5107732 Hanmer Apr 1992
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Number Date Country
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614139 Jul 1978 SU
Continuations (1)
Number Date Country
Parent 09/079657 May 1998 US
Child 09/359545 US