High filament count fine filament polyester yarns

Abstract

A direct melt spinning process for providing high filament count fine filament polyester yarns having excellent mechanical quality and along-end uniformity and unitary interlace by spinning all the filaments of such high filament count yarn from a single spinneret. Such yarns may be used as direct-use yarns and as draw-feed yarns for preparing drawn flat yarns and draw-textured yarns.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

The invention concerns improvements in and relating to melt-spinning fine continuous filament polyester yarns and particularly to an improved process for preparing such yarns of high filament count (HFC) having improved uniformity such as makes these yarns especially suitable for textile end-uses that may require downstream processing without breaking filaments and for use in dye-critical textile applications.

BACKGROUND

Polyester filament yarns of denier per filament (dpf) less than about 1 (i.e., similar to the dpf of silk), are commercially available, but are more costly to make than filament yarns of more conventional dpf (similar to that of cotton). Our so-called "parent" application Ser. No. 07/647,371 (now abandoned in favor of a continuation-in-part application now issued as U.S. Pat. No. 5,250,245, as was a companion case, now issued as U.S. Pat. No. 5,288,553, the disclosure of both of which are hereby incorporated herein by reference) was concerned with the preparation of such fine filaments by a novel direct melt-spinning process.

Reaction in the trade to the fine filament textile (flat or textured) yarns has tended to limit their use in textile fabrics unless the total yarn denier (D.sub.Y) of the fine filament yarn is approximately the same as that of the higher dpf yarn that it replaces. For example, if an incumbent yarn has filaments of denier 1.5 dpf (and we shall refer to this incumbent yarn as a low filament count (LFC) yarn) is to be replaced by a finer filament yarn whose filaments are of half the dpf of the LFC yarn, i.e., 0.75 dpf, then the number of filaments in the finer filament (0.75 dpf) yarn needs to be approximately twice that of the incumbent LFC yarn to be a direct replacement in existing textile end-uses, i.e., to provide the same fabric weight (grams/meters.sup.2). In other words, an LFC yarn of, for instance, 100 filaments and 150 denier (i.e., 1.5 dpf), should be replaced by an HFC yarn, also of 150 denier, but of 200 filaments, on account of the lower 0.75 dpf. Some fiber producers have, therefore, spun two (or more) separate smaller fine filament "bundles" and have then co-mingled (interlaced) the separate smaller bundles to provide a single HFC yarn of the desired total yarn denier (D.sub.Y) equal to that of the larger dpf LFC yarn that is to be replaced. They have done this despite the loss in spinning productivity this separate spinning has entailed; the loss in spinning productivity results from the fact that two (or more) spinnerets are used to provide filaments for only one yarn. The reason for using more spinnerets has been a belief, based on previous experience with spinning filaments of higher dpf, that, to maintain satisfactory quality levels (along-end denier, structure uniformity and mechanical quality are the criteria used by us), it has not been desirable to increase the number (#) of filaments spun per "useful" extrusion area in the face of the spinneret (referred to herein as filament extrusion density (FED), given as #/cm.sup.2) significantly over what was previously used to spin the larger dpf LFC yarn. If a customer were to receive from a fiber producer separate smaller fine filament yarns of low yarn denier, the customer would want to co-mingle two or more of these smaller fine filament yarns to obtain the desired total yarn denier (D.sub.Y), which would be an added cost to him in making the final textile yarn. Also co-mingling filament yarns that have been spun separately has not provided the same visual fabric aesthetics (or dye uniformity) as provided by interlacing a single HFC bundle of the same yarn denier (D.sub.Y). In other words, there has been a significant detectable difference in aesthetics and/or performance between a plied yarn and a unitary interlaced yarn.

Accordingly, it has been desirable to provide a melt-spinning process for spinning a single HFC bundle of fine dpf filaments from a single extrusion spinneret (i.e., without the need for plying two or more filament bundles) and thereby not sacrificing spinning productivity, while maintaining required along-end uniformity and mechanical quality for down-stream processing of the HFC fine filament yarn.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

According to the invention, there is provided a process of preparing by melt-spinning an interlaced multi filament (HFC) yarn of at least 150 fine filaments in number (#) and of 0.5 to 2.2 spun denier per filament (dpf).sub.s, from a polyester polymer of 13 to 23 relative viscosity (LRV) and of 240.degree. C. to 265.degree. C. zero-shear melting point (T.sub.m.sup.o) comprising:

(i) melting the polyester polymer, heating the resulting melt to a polymer temperature (Tp) that is 25.degree. C., to 55.degree. C. above the T.sub.m.sup.o, and filtering the heated melt;

(ii) extruding the filtered melt through at least 150 capillaries in the face of a spinneret to form the aforesaid number (#) of at least 150 filamentary streams at a filamentary extrusion density (FED) of at least 6 filaments/cm.sup.2 and at a total melt mass flow rate W, in g/min, the total melt mass flow rate of all these streams being W (=w.times.#) where w is the mass flow rate through a single capillary and=(dpf).sub.s .times.(V.sub.s)/9000, where V.sub.s is the spinning withdrawal speed and is at least 2 Km/min;

(iii) protecting the freshly-extruded filamentary streams immediately below the face of the spinneret by a delay shroud (of length L.sub.q cm below said face), then cooling them by quenching air of laminar velocity (Q.sub.a m/min), such that the Spin Factor SF is 0.2 to 1, where said Spin Factor (SF) is calculated according to the expression:

SF=k{(LRV)�T.sub.m.sup.o +25)/(Tp)!.sup.6 �(V.sub.s).sup.2 /(dpf).sub.s !�(Q.sub.a /W).sup.0.2 !�(FED)(L.sub.q)!.sup.-0.7 !}.sup.n where "k"=2.4.times.10.sup.+5 and `n`=minus (-) 0.8;

(iv) cooling the filamentary streams to a temperature below T.sub.g, converging the resulting cooled filaments into a single multifilament bundle of at least 150 filaments at a convergence distance (L.sub.c, in cm) from the face of the spinneret, and interlacing the single multifilament bundle to provide an interlaced spin-oriented yarn;

and wherein the interlaced yarn is wound to form a package at a winding speed of 2 to 5 Km/min.

As indicated, the Spin Factor (SF) is important; it is defined by the expression:

SF=k�.eta..sub.a .sigma..sub.F Q.sub.F !.sup.n, and in the "expanded" form by the expression used herein: SF=k{(LRV)�(T.sub.m.sup.o +25)/(Tp)!.sup.6 �(V.sub.s).sup.2 /(dpf).sub.s !�(Q.sub.a /W).sup.0.2 !�(FED)(L.sub.q)!-0.7 !}.sup.n where k=2.4.times.10.sup.5 n=minus (-)0.8 .eta.F(apparent melt viscosity)=(LRV)�(T.sub.m.sup.o+ 25)/(Tp)!.sup.6 .sigma.F(spinline stress factor)=(V.sub.s).sup.2 /(dpf).sub.s QF (quench factor)=�(Q.sub.a /W).sup.+0.2 !�(FED)(L.sub.q).sup.-0.7 ! W(g/min/extrusion bundle)=(#filaments).times.(w) w(g/min/capillary)=�(dpf).sub.s .times.V.sub.s (m/min)/9000! Q.sub.a =laminar air flow in meters per minute FED=#filaments per "useful" extrusion area in cm.sup.2 L.sub.q =delay quench length in cm; and where all three of .eta..sub.a, .sigma..sub.F, and Q.sub.F should be balanced as indicated in the above relationship to give a Spin Factor (SF) of 0.2 to 1 in order to spin uniform fine filament (HFC) yarns according to the invention.

Quality levels of the filaments are desirably measured by along-end denier (i.e., a low Denier Spread (DS), desirably less than 2.5%, particularly less than about 2.0%, preferably less than about 1.5%, and especially about 1.0% or less, it being understood that these uniformity criteria are increasingly difficult to obtain as the dpf is reduced), structure uniformity (as measured by the along-end draw tension (coefficient of) variation (DTV, %) which should desirably be less than 1%, and is discussed more in detail in relation to Spin Factor (SF), especially referring to FIG. 1, hereinafter) and mechanical quality (as measured by normalized tenacity-at-break-denier (T.sub.B).sub.n, where (T.sub.B).sub.n =Tenacity (g/d)(RDR).sub.s (20.8/LRV).sup.0.75, as discussed later, where (RDR).sub.s is the residual spun draw ratio and is defined by (RDR).sub.s =�1+(E.sub.B)/100!, where (E.sub.B) is the percentage elongation-to-break).

As will be discussed, capillary dimensions herein and in the art (D for diameter and L for length) can be extremely important. Such dimensions are preferably such that the L/D ratio is at least 2, and the L/D.sup.4 value is at least 335 mm.sup.-3.

By this new melt-spinning process, according to the present invention, it has been possible to achieve a melt-spinning productivity of at least 5000, where melt-spinning productivity (P.sub.s) is given as the product of the withdrawal speed (V.sub.s) in m/min and the residual spun draw ratio (RDR).sub.s of the spin-oriented filaments according to the expression, (P.sub.s =V.sub.s .times.(RDR).sub.s), and (RDR).sub.s is given by (RDR).sub.s =�1+(E.sub.B)/100!, where (E.sub.B) is the percentage elongation-to-break.

The resulting interlaced multi-filament yarns are believed new, as will be indicated, because they number at least 150 filaments of fine denier, up to 2.2 spun dpf (dpf).sub.s, and up to 1 dpf, when drawn, and yet their filament entanglement shows unitary interlace. They show desirable uniformity, as expressed for the filaments by low DTV values, and desirably by low DS, and for the yarns by high (T.sub.B).sub.n values, as indicated.

Accordingly, there is provided, according to the invention, a unitary interlaced multi-filament polyester yarn, wherein the polyester polymer has a relative viscosity (LRV) of 13 to 23 and a zero-shear melting point (T.sub.m.sup.o) of 240.degree. to 265.degree. C.; comprising at least 150 flat filaments of denier 0.5 to 2.2, whose filament entanglement shows unitary interlace; and having an elongation-to-break (E.sub.B) of 40 to 160%, preferably 40 to 90%, a normalized yarn tenacity-at-break-denier (T.sub.B).sub.n of at least 5 g/dd, and where (T.sub.B).sub.n =Tenacity(g/d)(RDR).sub.s (20.8/LRV).sup.0.75, and where (RDR).sub.s is the residual spun draw ratio and is defined by (RDR).sub.s =�1+E.sub.B)/100!, and an along-end draw tension coefficient of variation (DTV, %) of less than 1%. Such yarns preferably have a (1-S/S.sub.m) value of at least 0.85, where S is the boil-off shrinkage and S.sub.m is the maximum shrinkage potential.

There is also provided, according to the invention, a unitary interlaced multi-filament polyester yarn, wherein the polyester polymer has a relative viscosity (LRV) of 13 to 23 and a zero-shear melting point (T.sub.m.sup.o) of 240.degree. to 265.degree. C.; comprising at least 150 flat filaments of denier 0.2 to 1, whose filament entanglement shows unitary interlace; and having an elongation-to-break (E.sub.B) of 15 to 40%, a normalized yarn tenacity-at-break (T.sub.B).sub.n of at least 5 g/d, where (T.sub.B).sub.n =Tenacity(g/d)(RDR).sub.s (20.8/LRV).sup.0.75, and where (RDR).sub.s is the residual spun draw ratio and is defined by (RDR).sub.s =�1+(E.sub.B)/100!, and an along-end draw tension coefficient of variation (DTV, %) of less than 1%.

There is also provided, according to the invention, a textured multi-filament polyester yarn, wherein the polyester has a relative viscosity (LRV) of 13 to 23 and a zero-shear melting point (T.sub.m.sup.o) of 240.degree. to 265.degree. C.; comprising at least 150 textured filaments of denier 0.2 to 1, and of unitary filament entanglement; and having an elongation-to-break (E.sub.B) of 15% to 45%, a normalized tenacity-at-break-denier (T.sub.B).sub.n of at least 4 g/dd, where (T.sub.B).sub.n =Tenacity(g/d)(RDR).sub.s (20.8/LRV).sup.0.75, and where (RDR).sub.s is the residual spun draw ratio and is defined by (RDR).sub.s =�1+(E.sub.B)/100!, and a Fray Count of less than 10 per 1000 meters.

Some of the spin-oriented yarns may be used as such, i.e., in as-spun condition as "direct-use" yarns, and most of them may be drawn in a coupled or split process, single-end or in a form of a sheet of few ends, or in the form of a split process, single-end or in a form of a sheet of few ends, or in the form of a weftless warp sheet, to provide drawn flat multi-filament yarns having a residual elongation as desired, generally between about 15% to about 40%, and normalized (T.sub.B)n values of at least 5 g/dd, preferably of at least 5.5 g/dd, and especially of at least 6 g/dd. Such drawing may be incorporated as part of a split or coupled draw-texturing process, such as draw air-jet texturing or draw false-twist texturing, in which case the yarns may be drawn to somewhat higher elongation, e.g. up to about 45%. The yarns may, if desired, be subjected to a compression crimping process (e.g., stuffer-box crimping).

The HFC yarns of the invention (whether spun or drawn, flat or textured yarns) have unitary interlace and have at least 150 filaments, preferably at least 175 filaments and especially at least 200 filaments. As indicated, the spun denier (dpf).sub.s of the as-spun filaments is desirably 0.5 to 2.2, and preferably 0.6, 0.65 or 0.7 on up, e.g., to about 2 (dpf).sub.s. The denier per filament of the drawn (e.g., flat or draw-textured) HFC yarns of the invention desirably have a filament denier of about 1 or less and generally up to about 0.8, e.g. 0.2 to 0.8 dpf. Draw-textured HFC yarns of the invention are further characterized by an elongation-to-break of 15% to 45%, a normalized tenacity-at-break-denier of at least 4 g/dd, preferably at least 4.5 g/dd, and a Toray Fray Count of less than 10 per 1000 meters, preferably less than 5 per 1000 meters. Indeed, as may be seen in the Examples, Fray Counts of 0 have been achieved according to the invention.

High filament count (HFC) post-bulkable yarns may be prepared by spinning and gently heat-setting an HFC mixed-filament yarn comprised of two or more types of filaments that differ in denier and/or cross-section under conditions selected such as to provide a potential differential shrinkage (because of differential crystallinity) between the filament types, i.e. sufficient to, preserve a shrinkage difference of at least 5% (i.e., not to over heat set), and such that when the drawn mixed-filament yarn is heated under relaxed conditions the differing filaments of the HFC drawn mixed-filament yarn still have sufficient differential shrinkage to shrink differentially and so give a yarn having different filament lengths (giving along-end loops) and thereby provide an HFC bulky yarn comprised of core filaments (previously of high shrinkage) having a (dpf).sub.core greater than the dpf of the surface filaments (previously of lower shrinkage). In HFC mixed-shrinkage yarns of the invention the surface filaments after boil-off shrinkage (ABO) desirably have a (dpf).sub.ABO of less than 1, and preferably less than 0.8; and the total yarn average (dpf).sub.Y (after boil-off) should generally be less than 1 (as shown, e.g., in Example 5).

Further aspects and embodiments of the invention will appear hereinafter.

DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

FIG. 1 is a plot of draw tension variation (DTV, %) versus the Spin Factor SF, defined hereinbefore. Undrawn yarns of the invention preferably have DTV-values of less than 1%, and are spun so the SF is in the range of 0.2 to 1 as shown by the lightly dashed lines. Preferred combinations of DTV and SF-values for making preferred yarns of the invention are represented by the shaded area/////// between Lines A and C, where Lines A and C have the formula DTV=a(SF)+b , wherein a=1 and b= +0.2 and -0.2 for Lines A and C, respectively (on either side of especially preferred Line B, expressed similarly, except that b=0 for line B), and where the DTV and SF values are both between 0.2 and 1.

FIG. 2 is a representative plot of percent boil-off shrinkage (S) versus percent elongation-to-break (E.sub.B) wherein straight Lines 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8 represent (1-S/Sm)-values of 0.85, 0.7, 0.6, 0.4, 0.2, 0.1, 0.05, and 0, respectively, and curved Line 9 represents a typical shrinkage versus elongation-to-break relationship for a series of yarns formed, for example, by increasing spinning speed, but keeping all other process variables unchanged. Changing other process variables (such as dpf, polymer viscosity) produces a "family" of similar curved lines that are of essentially similar configurations. The vertical dashed lines denote ranges of E.sub.B -values for preferred filaments of the invention, i.e., E.sub.B values of 40% to 175%, with 160% as a practical upper limit, based on age stability, and especially up to 140%.

Preferred filaments of the invention denoted by the "widely-spaced"//////-area are especially suitable as draw-feed yarns, being defined by E.sub.B -values of about 90% to 160% and (1-S/S.sub.m) value of at least about 0.05 (line 7).

Preferred filaments of the invention especially suitable for direct-use, i.e. without further drawing and/or heating, are denoted by the "densely-spaced" .backslash..backslash..backslash..backslash..backslash..backslash.-area bordered by E.sub.B -values of about 40% to about 90% and (1-S/S.sub.m) ratio at least about 0.85 (line 1).

The expression (1-S/S.sub.m) is used herein as a relative degree of stress-induced crystallization (SIC). S.sub.m is the expected maximum shrinkage potential for filaments of a given degree of molecular extension (E.sub.B) in the absence of crystallinity, and may be calculated as follows:

S.sub.m (%)=(�(E.sub.B).sub.max -E.sub.B)!/�(E.sub.B).sub.max +100!)100%, wherein (E.sub.B).sub.max is the expected maximum elongation-to-break (E.sub.B) of totally amorphous "isotropic" filaments. For polyester filaments spun from polymer of typical textile viscosities LRV-values of about 13 to about 23), the nominal value of (E.sub.B).sub.max is experimentally found to be about 550% providing for a maximum residual draw-ratio of 6.5 (Reference: High-Speed Fiber Spinning, ed. A. Ziabicki and H. Kawai, Wiley-Interscience (1985), page 409) and thus, S.sub.m (%) is defined, herein, by the simplified expression: �(550-E.sub.B)/650!.times.100%

FIG. 3 and 4 are partial schematic representations of partial spinneret arrangements having high filament extrusion density (FED). The arrays are designed to optimize flow of cooling air through the extrusion bundle, and to minimize coalescence of fleshly-extruded filaments and poor spinning performance and poor along-end uniformity of the quenched filament bundle. Such arrangement is described in allowed application Ser. No. 08/214,717 (DP-4555H), filed by Aneja et al. on Mar. 16, 1994, from which the 5-ring arrangement of FIG. 3 was taken, merely for convenience. The orifices can be arranged in more rings to give an HFC yarn, while being staggered similarly, so as to increase the number of filaments spun from a single spinneret. This is shown in FIG. 4 for spinning 200 filaments from a single spinneret.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The polyester polymer used for preparing spin-oriented filament yarns of the invention is the same as for the "parent" application; that is, the polyester polymer is an ethylene terephthalate polymer selected to have a relative viscosity (LRV) in the range about 13 to about 23, a zero-shear melting point (T.sub.m.sup.o) in the range about 240.degree. C. to about 265.degree. C.; and desirably a glass-transition temperature (T.sub.g) in the range about 40.degree. C. to about 80.degree. C. (wherein T.sub.m.sup.o and T.sub.g are measured from the second DSC heating cycle under nitrogen gas at a heating rate of 20.degree. C. per minute). The said polyester polymer is a linear condensation polymer composed of alternating A and B structural units, where the A's are hydrocarbylene dioxy units of formula �--O--R'--O--! and the B's are hydrocarbylenedicarbonyl units of formula �--C(O)--R"--C(O)--!, wherein R' is primarily �--C.sub.2 H.sub.4 --!, as in the ethylenedioxy (glycol) unit �--O--C.sub.2 H.sub.4 --O--!, and R" is primarily �--C.sub.6 H.sub.4 --!, as in the 1,4-phenylenedicarbonyl unit �--C(O)--C.sub.6 H.sub.4 --C(O)--!, such as to provide sufficient ethylene terephthalate �--O--C.sub.2 H.sub.4 --O--C(O)--C.sub.6 H.sub.4 --C(O)--! repeat groups so as to maintain the T.sub.m.sup.o between about 240.degree. C. and about 280.degree. C. Suitable poly(ethylene terephthalate)-based polymer (herein denoted as PET or 2GT) may be formed by a DMT-process, e.g., as described by H. Ludewig in his book "Polyester Fibers, Chemistry and Technology", John Wiley and Sons Limited (1971), or by a TPA-process, e.g., as described in Edging U.S. Pat. No. 4,110,316. Included are also copolyesters in which, for example, up to about 15 percent (or even 20 percent) of the hydrocarbylenedioxy and/or hydrocarbylenedicarbonyl units are replaced with different hydrocarbylenedioxy and hydrocarbylenedicarbonyl units to provide enhanced low temperature disperse dyeability, comfort, and aesthetic properties. Suitable replacement units are disclosed, e.g., in Most U.S. Pat. No. 4,444,710 (Example VI), Pacofsky U.S. Pat. No. 3,748,844 (Col. 4), and Hancock, et al. U.S. Pat. No. 4,639,347 (Col. 3).

Polyester polymers, used herein, may, if desired, be modified by incorporating ionic dye sites, such as ethylene-5-M-sulfo-isophthalate residues, where M is an alkali metal cation, for example in the range of about 1 to about 3 mole percent. To adjust the dyeability or other properties of the spin-oriented filaments and the drawn filaments therefrom, some diethylene glycol (DEG) may be added to the polyester polymer as disclosed by Bosley and Duncan U.S. Pat. No. 4,025,592 and in combination with chain-branching agents as described in Goodley and Taylor U.S. Pat. No. 4,945,151. To enhance dyeability with disperse dyes, copolyesters may be used as mentioned in Most U.S. Pat. No. 4,444,710, Pacofsky U.S. Pat. No. 3,748,844, Hancock U.S. Pat. No. 4,639,347, and Frankfort and Knox U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,134,882 and 4,195,051. To overcome the higher shrinkage of copolyester yarns (if considered undesireable for a given end-use), representative branching agents may be used to reduce shrinkage as mentioned in Knox U.S. Pat. No. 4,156,071, MacLean U.S. Pat. No. 4,092,229, and Reese U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,883,032, 4,996,740, and 5,034,174; and polymer of higher viscosity (e.g., by about +0.5 to about +1.0 LRV units) may be used to control yarn shrinkage (e.g., the extent of crystallization).

Most of the details of the melt-spinning process have been described in U.S. Pat. Nos 5,250,245 and 5,288,553, so need not be repeated. The polymer is heated to a temperature (Tp) and extruded through capillaries of preferred dimensions, as indicated, such that L/D.sup.4 is at least 335 mm.sup.-3 , and the freshly-extruded filamentary streams are immediately protected by a short delay shroud (preferably of length 2 to 5 cm), and then quenched, preferably radially, as described by Dauchert in U.S. Pat. No. 3,067,458 and Examples 1, 2 and 11 of Knox U.S. Pat. No. 4,156,071, to form solid filaments that are preferably converged into a single bundle by metered finish tip applicator guides, as described, e.g., by Agers in U.S. Pat. No. 4,926,661, selecting the convergence length (L.sub.c) to balance the desire for low downstream air drag (giving high winding tensions) vs. desire for optimum quenching air flow (to provide low DTV and low DS). Typically the withdrawal speed is controlled by use of a feed roll, which preferably cooperates with a let down roll before the windup, using an S-wrap configuration. The single filament bundle is intelaced to provide a unitary interlaced yarn, as described by Bunting and Nelson in U.S. Pat. No. 2,985,995 and by Agers in U.S. Pat. No. 4,926,661. The interlace is conveniently measured by conventional means, e.g., as in Hitt U.S. Pat. No. 3,290,932 or with a Rothschild device to give a pin count, which is an average of several readings.

Generally, tintextured filaments and yarns are referred to herein as "flat", and as-spun (undrawn) flat yarns intended for drawing as "feed" or as "draw-feed" yarns. As-spun (undrawn) yarns which can be used as a "textile" yarn without need for further drawing and/or heat treatment are referred to herein as "direct-use" yarns. For textile purposes, a "textile" yarn should generally have certain minimum properties, such as sufficiently high modulus and yield point, and sufficiently low shrinkage, which distinguish such "textile" yarns from conventional feed yarns that require further processing before they have the minimum properties for processing into textiles and subsequent use. It will be recognized that, where appropriate, our technology teaching may apply also to polyester filaments in other forms, such as bundles or tows, which may then be converted into staple fiber, and used as such in accordance with the balance of properties that is desirable and may be achieved as taught hereinafter.

As indicated, a main purpose of the present invention has been to solve the productivity problems and disadvantages of the prior art, namely having to melt spin separate filament bundles of lower number of filaments and having to combine 2 or more such separate filament bundles to provide the desired total yarn denier (D.sub.Y) by interlacing or co-mingling such lesser bundles (having less filaments) to provide the desired total yarn denier (D.sub.Y) prior to draw-warping or after draw-texturing and, in doing this, to provide filaments of sufficient along-end structural uniformity, measured herein by along-end draw tension variation (DTV, %), along-end denier spread (DS, %), which indicates sufficient physical uniformity, and mechanical quality, as measured by the yarn tenacity-at-break-denier normalized to a polymer LRV of 20.8, for use in textile processing (i.e., providing uniform textile yarns with essentially no broken filaments, herein referred to as "frays"). As indicated, we have achieved this by careful selection of polymer (LRV and T.sub.m.sup.o) and process conditions to provide a spin factor (SF) in the range of 0.2 to 1, and especially such that DTV, % is less than 1, e.g. 0.2 to 1, and also between �SF+0.2! and �SF-0.2 !; In other words, as indicated hereinbefore, these factors are important, according to the invention:- .eta..sub.a, referred to as the "apparent" melt viscosity at temperature T.sub.p ; .sigma..sub.F the spinline stress factor; and Q.sub.F the quench factor; all three of these should be balanced as indicated, to spin uniform fine dpf HFC yarns from a single spinneret according to the invention.

Fine filament yarns of this invention may be subjected to warp drawing, air-jet texturing, false-twist texturing, gear crimping, and stuffer-box crimping, for example.

Generally, when draw-texturing fine dpf feed yarns on false-twist texturing (FTT) machines that are characterized by a "bent double heater configuration" (such as a Bannag FK900, and herein denoted as Process A), very high Toray Fray Counts (broken filaments) of 500 to 1000 per 1000 meters have been obtained. When, however, we have inserted a device into the draw-texturing threadline to reduce the twist-induced draw by reducing the break angle between the first upstream contact point and the first friction twist insertion point to less than 15 degrees and to increase the radius of curvature of the upstream contact to greater than 2.5 mm, we have significantly reduced (essentially eliminated) the numbers of broken filaments (frays) when texturing on conventional "bent configuration" FTT machines (as shown in Examples 2 and 3); this technique is denoted herein as Process B (according to our invention). For those who have a Barmag FK900 or other "bent configuration" FTT machine, Process B is far preferable to more expensive solutions, such as modifying the "bent configuration" to eliminate this "twist trap" phenomenon by moving the heater and/or spindle, or replacing the existing "bent" machines and buying "tall" linear configuration FTT machines, or buying Murata belt machines, which are more costly solutions than Process B (one aspect of this invention).

Our new filaments (and bundles/tows made therefrom) may be crimped, if desired, and cut into staple and flock. Fabrics made from these improved yarns may be surface-treated by conventional sanding and brushing to give suede-like tactility. Our new low shrinkage filament yarns may be used as direct-use flat textile yarns. The new yarns may be used as feed yarns for air-jet texturing and stuffer-box crimping, wherein no drawing need be carried out. The improved combination of filament strength and uniformity makes these filaments especially suited for end-use processes that require fine filament yarns without broken filaments (or filament breakage), and/or require uniform dyeing with critical dyes. Fine denier filament polyester yarns of the invention are especially suitable for making high-end density moisture-barrier fabrics, such as rainwear and medical garments. The surface of the knit and woven fabrics can be napped (brushed or sanded). To reduce the denier even further, the filaments may be treated (preferably in fabric form) with conventional alkali procedures.

Our new fine filaments, especially those capable of being cationic dyeable, may also be used as coverings for elastomeric yarns (and strips), preferably by air entanglement as described by Strachan in U.S. Pat. No. 3,940,917. The fine filaments of the invention may be co-mingled on-line during spinning or off-line with higher denier polyester (or nylon) filaments to provide for cross-dyed effects and/or mixed-shrinkage post-bulkable potential, where the bulk may be developed off-line, such as overfeeding in presence of heat while beaming/slashing or in fabric form, such as in the dye bath. The degree of interlace and type/amount of finish applied during spinning may generally be selected based on the textile processing needs and final desired yarn/fabric aesthetics. The filament surface frictional characteristics may be changed by selection of cross-section, delusterants, and through such treatments as alkali-etching Further, the frictional characteristics may be enhanced to be more silk-like by use of silicon dioxide versus titanium dioxide delusterants. Other inert metal oxides may be used as delusterants. The spin-oriented polyester filaments, used herein, may advantageously be treated with caustic applied to freshly-extruded filaments, as described by Grindstaff and Reese U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,069,844, 5,069,845 and 5,069,846 to provide the polyester filaments with improved moisture-wicking properties, more akin to those of the nylon filaments.

Indeed, further modifications will be apparent, especially as these and other technologies advance. For example, any type of draw winding machine may be used; post heat treatment of the feed and/or drawn yarns, if desired, may be applied by any type of heating device (such as heated godets, hot air and/or steam jet, passage through a heated tube, microwave heating, etc.); finish application may be applied by convention roll application, herein metered finish tip applicators are preferred and finish may be applied in several steps, for example during spinning prior to drawing and after drawing prior to winding; interlace may be developed by using heated or unheated entanglement air-jets and may be developed in several steps, such as during spinning and during drawing and other devices may be used, such as use of tangle-reeds on a weftess sheet of yarns.

The invention lends itself to further variations and ways to take advantage of the benefits of the yarns of the invention in various drawing and/or heat treatment processes as described hereinafter. As will be understood, feed filaments may be supplied and/or processed according to the invention in the form of a yarn or as a bundle of filaments that does not necessarily have the coherency of a true "yarn", but for convenience herein a plurality of filaments may often be referred to as a yarn or bundle, without intending specific limitation by such term.

TEST METHODS

Many of the test methods are detailed in the "parent" application and in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,123,882, 4,156,071, 5,066,4475 and in 5,288,553, and are incorporated herein by reference, so further detailed discussion herein would be redundant.

Broken filaments, especially of textured yarns were measured by a commercial Toray Fray Counter (Model DT 104, Toray Industries, Japan) at a linear speed of 700 mpm for 5 minutes i.e., number of frays per 3500 meters, and then the numbers of frays are expressed herein as the number of frays per 1000 meters.

The draw tension variation (DTV) was measured on the DuPont "Draw Tension Instrument" at a draw-ratio of 1.707X for as-spun yarns having elongations of at least 90% at 185.degree. C. over a heater length of 1 meter at 185 ypm (169.2 mpm) wherein casablanca type rolls (vs. nip rolls) are used to control tension. For information about the DuPont machine and its availability, questions may be directed to the Engineering R&D Division at E. I. DuPont de Nemours and Company, Wilmington, Del. 19898. Another instrument brand that uses similar principles (but should be calibrated opposite a DuPont machine) is DYNAFIL, manufactured by TEXTECHNO; this is a fixed-strain device which uses a non-contact heater (length about 30 inches), and normal set up is a 1.6X draw ratio.

The following Examples further illustrate the invention, in showing preparation of multifilament HFC yarns of more than 150 filaments by spinning such filaments in a single bundle from a single spinneret, and subsequent processing of such HFC yarns, and are not intended to be limiting.

EXAMPLE 1

We have spun a large number of multi-filament HFC yarns from 2G-T polyester polymer of nominal 21.2 LRV and having a zero-shear melting point T.sub.m.sup.o of 255 C at varying filament extrusion densities (FED). Process and product details of some of these are summarized in Table I. The lowest dpf listed was down to 0.6 dpf (a 150 denier, 250 filament yarn). Such lower dpf as-spun yarns are described hereinafter in Example 4. Comparative items are denoted by the letter C, such as in Item 6C. Yarns having a DTV less than 0.75% are denoted by a letter "P" for preferred. Yarns having denier spread (DS) values in the range of 2 to 2.5% are denoted by the letter "N" (indicating not preferred but according to the invention). Yarns having a preferred normalized tenacity-at-break-denier (T.sub.B).sub.n of at least 6 g/dd are denoted by a letter "T". Yarns having elongation-to-break (E.sub.B) values in the range of 160 to 175% are noted by the letter "E", as such yarns have lower age-stability than draw-feed yarns of lower elongation-to-break, e.g., of 90-160%, (preferably 90-140%). Yarns 1 to 46, 84 to 150, and 159 to 185 were melt-spun using spinneret capillaries of length (L) 36 mil (0.914 mm) and diameter (D) 9 mil (0.229 mm). Yarns 47 to 83 were melt-spun using spinneret capillaries of L.times.D 21 mil.times.7 mil (0.533 mm.times.0.178 mm). Yarns 151 to 158 were melt-spun using spinneret capillaries of L.times.D 18 mil.times.6 mil (0.457 mm .times.0.152 mm). Yarns 1 to 46 were 168 filament yarns spun from a spinneret having a FED of 6.54 #/cm.sup.2 ; yarns 47 to 150 were 200 filament yarns spun from a spinneret having a FED of 7.7 #/cm.sup.2 ; yarns 151 to 158 were 204 filament yarns spun from a spinneret having a FED of 7.94 #/cm.sup.2 ; and yarns 159 to 185 were 250 filament yarns spun from a spinneret having a FED of 9.74 #/cm.sup.2.

As indicated (by the Comparative "C" items), we found that the spinning performance of these HFC yarns deteriorated as the FED increased. To overcome this deterioration, our first step was to check and optimize standard process variables and equipment, such as assuring uniform air flow, and optimizing proper convergence length (i.e., long enough to permit convergence without sticky filaments, but short enough to reduce increase in spinline tension from air drag and thereby permit winding up the yarns at lower tensions) and setting the polymer temperature to provide good polymer quality (without thermal degradation). We found this first step improved the spin performance somewhat, but was still sometimes unacceptable. Our next step was to reconsider the extrusion/quenching process. It was unacceptable for us to reduce FED by double-ending (spinning from 2 packs instead from a single pack) since this would cut productivity by 50%. Our objective was to improve yarn mechanical quality (T.sub.B).sub.n, along-end denier (DS), and along-end structure (DTV) without double-ending. The spin factor (SF) expression defines an approach to the spinning process as an integrated system and permits selection of process variables according to our invention, to achieve desired yarn property goals. The next step would be to "fine-tune" by careful selection of process variables so as to maintain spin performance and yarn uniformity/quality, at a higher spin productivity P.sub.s defined by the product of the spin speed (V.sub.s) and (RDR).sub.s. Item 14 in Table I is an illustration of the successful use of SF to obtain (T.sub.B).sub.n greater than 6g/dd, denier spread (DS) no more than 1% and draw tension variation (DTV, %) no more than 0.75%.

We also observed that the capillaries of L.times.D 21.times.7 mil (0.533.times.0.178 mm) gave an over all better spinning process than the capillaries of L.times.D 36.times.9 mil (0.914.times.0.229 mm) at the same mass flow rate. Capillaries have previously been characterized by their �L/D.sup.4 ! ratio (e.g. in U.S. Pat. No 4,134,882). In metric units the 6.times.18 mil, 7.times.21 mil, and 9.times.36 mil capillaries have �L/D.sup.4,mm.sup.-3 ! values of 848, 534 and 335, respectively. According to the process of this invention, �L/D.sup.4 ! metric values of at least 335 are preferred, and at least 500 is especially preferred.

The filament arrays were optimized for uniform quenching (as described in relation to FIG. 3 and in more detail in allowed application Ser. No. 08/214,717 (DP-4555-H), referred to above). For calculating the spin factor (SF), those process parameters not included in Table I may be calculated as described hereinbefore. The type and level of spin finish and interlace were selected based on intended end-use; for example, feed yarns for false-twist texturing have lower levels of interlace than those used as feed yarns for draw-warping.

All these yarns are characterized by "random" unitary interlace, i.e., along-end filament entanglement, because all the filaments in each yarn were spun from a single spinneret. Yarns that have been plied have generally contained sections where the original filament bundles have less overall intra-bundle entanglement, i.e., the separately spun bundles retain some of their separate "bundle integrity". This phenomenon has been recognized. For example, when separate bundles of filaments of different polymers (homopolymer and a cationic dyeable modified polymer), dpf, and cross-sections, have been spun and then the separate bundles have been co-mingled into a single interlaced yarn, the along-end mixing has not been as "random" or unitary as if the mixed filaments had been spun from a single extrusion spinneret. This has been a defect of plied yarns, that has led to nonuniform dyed fabrics and poorer down-stream textile processing. Each separately-spun bundle of filaments does not generally entirely lose its "bundle integrity", even after such separately-spun bundles have been interlaced together and mingled into a single yarn. In contrast, the HFC yarns of the invention have shown more unitary interlace because all the filaments of the HFC yarn were spun from a single spinneret; they do not have residual "bundle integrity" from having been spun from different spinnerets. This difference between a plied yarn and a yarn of unitary interlace (all filaments spun from a single spinneret and interlaced therefrom into a single filament bundle only) is demonstrated in Example 6, hereinafter.

EXAMPLE 2

A 255 denier 200 filament draw-feed yarn prepared by melt-spinning 21.2 LRV polyester at 288.degree. C. from a spinneret having a FED of 7.8 filaments per cm.sup.2, through capillaries of L.times.D dimensions of 7.times.21 mil (0.2756 mm.times.0.8268 mm), the fleshly-extruded filaments being protected by a short 3 cm shroud and then quenched using a radial unit having a laminar air flow rate of 22.8 m/min, the quenched filaments being converged into a unitary bundle by use of metered finish tip applicator guides and withdrawn at a spin speed of 2195 m/min, was draw false-twist textured on a Barmug FK900 using polyurethane discs (D-ring), except where indicated, at 450-500 meters per minute by process A (conventional) and by process B (modified threadline path according to one aspect of the invention). Table II summarizes process conditions; namely draw ratio; disc-to-yarn (DY) surface speed ratio was 1.707; heater temperature (Temp, in degrees centigrade); disc stack configuration (C denotes a ceramic disc was used instead of a polyurethane disc); pre/post disc tensions in grams (T1/T2) (no value was measured in some instances); and numbers of broken filaments (Prays per 1000 meters). The draw feed yarns of the invention drawn at a 1.575X draw-ratio at 180.degree. C. using a 1/7/1 disc stack (process B) gave a textured yarn having a yarn denier of 164 (0.82 dpf), a tenacity of 3.69 g/d, and elongation-to-break of 43.5%, giving a normalized (T.sub.B).sub.n of 5.3 g/dd, according to the invention.

EXAMPLE 3

A 220 denier/325 filament yarn and a 220 denier/250 filament yarn were prepared (essentially as in Example 2, except that the 325 filaments were spun at a FED of 10.3 filaments per cm.sup.2, and the 250 filaments at a FED of 9.74 filaments per cm.sup.2) and were draw false-twist textured on a Barmug FK900 (which has a "bent" double heater configuration) at 450-500 meters per minute at 160.degree. C., using polyurethane discs (D-ring) with a 1.707 disc/yarn ratio (D/Y), other details being given in Table III. The quality of the textured yarns is represented by the normalized tenacity-at-break-denier (T.sub.B).sub.n and in the number of "Frays" per 1000 meters. The yarns were textured using the commercial threadline path (Process A) and by a modified threadline path using Process B, discussed hereinbefore. The yarns textured by Process A had (T.sub.B).sub.n values less than 4 g/dd and fray values significantly greater than 100, in contrast to significantly improved values from Process B (higher (T.sub.B).sub.n values and very low Fray Counts, less than 10).

EXAMPLE 4

HFC as-spun yarns of filament deniers less than 1 were spun from 2G-T polyester polymer of nominal 21.2 LRV and having a zero-shear melting point T.sub.m.sup.o of 255 C. Process and product details are summarized in Table IV. Yarns having a DTV less than 0.75% are denoted by a letter "P" for preferred. Yarns having a preferred normalized tenacity at break denier (T.sub.B).sub.n of at least 6 g/dd are denoted by a letter "T". Yarns 1-5 were of 168 filaments and spun from spinnerets having a FED of 6.54/cm.sup.2 ; yarns 6.sup.27 were of 200 filaments and spun from spinnerets having a FED of 7.8/cm.sup.2 ; yarns 28-74 were of 250 filaments and spun from spinnerets having a FED of 9.73/cm.sup.2. Yarns 1, 6-17, and 28-50 were spun using 7.times.21 mil (0.178.times.0.0.533 mm) spinneret capillaries and yarns 2-5, 18-27, and 50-74 were melt-spun using 9-36 mil (0.229.times.0.914 mm) spinneret capillaries.

The high filament count yarns in this Example 4 have filament deniers less than 1. Many may be drawn to filament deniers of less than 0.5, and even less than 0.3 dpf. Yams #s 3 and 5 have boil-off shrinkages of 11.4 and 4.2, respectively, and may be used, if desired, without drawing and heat setting as direct-use yarns, or the yarns may be used as draw-feed yarns, as described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,067,447, 5,244,616, 5,145,616, 5,223,197, and 5,250,245.

EXAMPLE 5

Soft bulky yarns (and fabrics therefrom) are provided from use of mixed-filament yarns comprised of filaments of differing shrinkages, typically from differences in denier, and/or surface to volume ratio (i.e., cross-sectional shape), with low shrinkage fine filaments (A) providing a desirable soft surface of the bulky yarn and higher denier filaments (B) providing the fabric with improved "body" and "drape" (i.e., less "mushy"). Mixed-shrinkage high filament count yarns of the invention are illustrated for simplicity as being comprised of two filament types of differing (dPf).sub.s. On drawing the spun yarn to an elongation-to-break (E.sub.B) of 25%, for example, the drawn filament deniers (dpf).sub.D are given by the expression (dpf).sub.D ={(dpf).sub.s .times.�(1.25/(RDR).sub.s !}; wherein the values of (dpf).sub.D for both filament types are desirably less than 1. To provide for differential shrinkage for round filaments the two filament types should differ in their spun (dpf).sub.s, with the high shrinkage filaments (B) being of higher dpf than of the low shrinkage filaments (A). To spin a single-end high filament count filament bundle of differing (dpf).sub.s, the spinneret capillary dimensions are selected to provide the desired difference, where the ratio of (dpf).sub.s is related to the ratio of spinneret dimensions according to the expression:

(dpf).sub.B /(dpf).sub.A =�(L/D.sup.4).sub.A /(L/D.sup.4).sub.B !.sup.n, where the exponent "n" equals "1" for Newtonian fluid-like behavior. This can be determined experimentally, by spinning through two capillaries of different dimensions in the same spinneret, by the expression: n=log.sub.10 {(dpf).sub.A /(dpf).sub.B }/log.sub.10 {(L/D.sup.4).sub.B /(L/D.sup.4).sub.A } For non-round cross-sections, spun from short (shape-forming) orifice capillaries after first passing through metering capillaries, the determining value of (L/D.sup.4) has been that of the metering capillaries, rather than of the shape-forming capillaries. As technology advances, however, it is expected that the thickness of the shape-forming plate will be increased, perhaps to a point such that a metering capillary may not be needed. From experimentation, a "round equivalent" (L/D.sup.4) value may be determined for any particular combination of shape-forming odd-cross-section orifice capillary and metering capillary assembly, using a technique similar to that already described.

To avoid broken filaments, it is desirable to draw to elongation-to-break values between 15% and 40%, which can be achieved by selecting a PDR appropriate to the (KDR).sub.s of the two filament types, where PDR=is the net process draw-ratio=machine draw-ratio.times.overfeed (or relaxation).

The above mixed-filament micro-denier HFC yarns may be air-jet textured without drawing, or a drawing step may be part of a draw-air-jet (+optional heat relaxation) texturing process.

EXAMPLE 6

A 225 denier, 200 filament draw-feed HFC "unitary" yarn according to the invention was prepared by melt-spinning 21.5 LRV polyester at 288 C from a single 200-capillary spinneret having a FED of 7.8 filaments per cm.sup.2, through capillaries of D.times.L dimensions of 9.times.36 mil (0.229 mm.times.0.914 mm), the freshly-extruded filaments being protected by a short 4.3 cm shroud and then quenched using a radial unit having a laminar air flow rate of 22.8 m/min, the quenched filaments being converged into a unitary bundle by use of a metered finish applicator guide, withdrawn at a speed of 2446 m/min, and the filaments interlaced using an air entanglement jet operating at 36 psig. The air jet used for interlacing the filaments was a standard "stacked" jet, as illustrated generally in FIGS. XI and XII of Christini et al. U.S. Pat. No. 3,936,577, that has been in commercial use for some years.

For comparison, a 255 denier 200 filament draw-feed "plied" yarn was prepared by melt-spinning 21.7 LRV polyester at 287.degree. C. through two separate spinnerets, each having a FED of 4.4 filaments per cm.sup.2, through capillaries of D.times.L dimensions of 12.times.50 mil (0.305 mm.times.1.27 mm), the freshly extruded filaments being air quenched, and separately converged into two 100-filament bundles by use of metered finish tip applicator guides, and both withdrawn at the same speed of 2624 m/min, and the separate 100-filament bundles were then plied into a 200 filament bundle using the same type of air entanglement jet used for the HFC yarn, said jet operating at 42 psig to achieve a similar average interlace nodes/meter as for the HFC yarn. This yarn is referred to below as the "Plied" yarn.

Six HFC yarn packages and six Plied yarn packages produced as described were analyzed using a Fibrescan FS 100, supplied by Fibre Vision, Inc. to compare interlace character. 66.7 meters of each yarn package were measured at a yarn speed of 1650 m/minute, and the results are recorded in the following Table.

______________________________________ Unitary Yarns Plied Yarns______________________________________Average Number of Nips per Meter 16.6 17.8Average Distance Between Nips (mm) 60.1 56.2Average Maximum Distance Between Nips (mm) 228.6 231.7______________________________________

As can be seen, these results seem somewhat comparable, when considering only averages measured over all 6 packages. When, however, the uniformity of the yarns is considered, by noting the maximum distance between nips and the package to package % CV of these maximum distances, the HFC yarn of the invention was shown to have significantly superior uniformity. This significant improvement in along-end uniformity also shows up in better processibility.

______________________________________ Unitary Yarns Plied Yarns______________________________________Maximum Distance Between Nips (mm) 279.3 314.0Package-to-Package % CV of Maximum 12.6 24.0Distance Between Nips______________________________________ TABLE I__________________________________________________________________________0 ITEM 1 Lq 2 Qa 3 SPIN 4 Ps 5 SPUN 6 DTV 7 DS 8 EB, 9 TB,NO. CM MPM MPM MPM DPF % % % G/DD 10 SF__________________________________________________________________________1 P 3.0 22.8 2195 5157 1.02 0.40 1.06 135.0 5.93 0.542 P 3.0 22.8 2195 5170 1.20 0.53 1.03 135.6 5.87 0.633 PT 4.3 22.8 2195 5566 1.01 0.63 1.45 153.6 6.46 0.744 C 4.3 22.8 2195 5941 1.65 1.06 1.05 170.7 5.99 1.055 C 6.6 22.8 2195 6134 1.50 1.19 1.00 179.5 5.93 1.226 C 6.6 22.8 2195 5947 1.65 1.35 1.02 171.0 5.42 1.337 C 6.6 22.8 2195 5846 1.35 1.36 1.12 166.4 6.54 1.108 HT 4.3 13.7 2409 6212 1.35 0.83 1.47 157.8 6.60 0.829 C 6.6 13.7 2409 6409 1.35 1.13 1.24 166.0 6.67 1.0410 PT 3.0 22.8 2409 5922 1.12 0.53 1.28 145.8 6.15 0.5911 P 3.0 22.8 2409 5816 1.00 0.61 1.18 141.4 6.02 0.5312 PT 3.0 22.8 2409 5956 1.26 0.62 1.32 147.2 6.08 0.6613 P 3.0 22.8 2409 5880 1.25 0.64 1.46 144.0 5.70 0.6514 HPT 4.3 22.8 2409 6012 1.35 0.75 0.99 149.5 6.21 0.7615 HT 4.3 22.8 2409 6210 1.11 0.80 1.42 157.7 6.19 0.7216 HET 4.3 22.8 2409 6318 1.01 0.85 1.82 162.2 6.55 0.7617 HT 4.3 22.8 2409 6163 1.49 0.85 1.09 155.8 6.09 0.8318 HE 4.3 22.8 2409 6580 1.25 0.99 1.64 173.1 6.48 0.8019 HET 6.6 22.8 2409 6277 1.11 0.88 1.13 160.5 6.45 0.9220 HE 6.6 22.8 2409 6416 1.14 0.91 1.32 166.3 5.72 0.9221 P 3.0 31.9 2409 5690 1.12 0.38 1.38 136.2 5.61 0.5622 HPT 3.0 31.9 2409 6037 1.12 0.66 1.56 150.5 6.43 0.5623 P 3.0 41.0 2409 5755 1.34 0.36 1.68 138.9 5.88 0.5624 HPT 4.3 41.0 2409 6183 1.13 0.67 1.27 156.6 6.40 0.6625 HPT 4.3 41.0 2409 6376 1.13 0.77 1.31 164.6 6.68 0.6626 HPT 3.0 22.8 2743 6011 1.02 0.35 1.17 119.1 6.03 0.3927 HPT 3.0 22.8 2743 6458 1.14 0.57 1.77 135.4 6.00 0.5028 HPT 3.0 22.8 2743 6855 1.00 0.60 1.99 149.9 6.61 0.4429 HPT 4.3 22.8 2743 6571 1.34 0.32 1.66 139.5 6.34 0.6230 HP 4.3 22.8 2743 6596 1.13 0.52 1.71 140.5 5.85 0.6031 HE 4.3 22.8 2743 7138 1.02 0.53 1.11 160.2 5.45 0.4832 HPT 4.3 22.8 2743 7006 1.01 0.71 1.68 155.4 7.03 0.5433 HPT 6.6 22.8 2743 6407 1.01 0.50 1.36 133.6 6.26 0.6834 HP 6.6 22.8 2743 6152 1.02 0.53 0.96 124.3 5.41 0.6135 PT 6.6 22.8 2743 6672 1.35 0.67 1.25 143.2 6.12 0.8036 PT 3.0 22.8 3018 7124 1.01 0.45 1.67 136.1 6.28 0.3937 HP 3.0 22.8 3018 6523 1.19 0.45 1.33 116.2 5.76 0.4038 NP 4.3 22.8 3018 7018 1.01 0.41 2.18 132.6 5.31 0.4739 PT 4.3 22.8 3018 6801 1.20 0.45 1.31 125.4 6.18 0.4940 PT 6.6 22.8 3018 6930 1.20 0.51 1.18 129.7 6.08 0.6241 PT 6.6 22.8 3018 7402 1.01 0.53 1.36 145.3 6.41 0.6042 PT 6.6 22.8 3018 7673 1.01 0.74 1.62 154.3 6.41 0.6043 PT 3.0 22.8 3200 6919 1.19 0.39 1.26 116.2 6.64 0.3744 PT 3.0 22.8 3200 7064 1.00 0.44 1.42 120.7 7.06 0.3545 PT 3.0 22.8 3200 7295 1.01 0.57 1.57 127.9 7.31 0.3546 PT 4.3 22.8 3200 6917 1.02 0.39 1.08 116.1 6.25 0.3847 PT 6.6 22.8 3200 7055 1.02 0.44 1.13 120.5 6.31 0.4948 P 3.0 22.8 2195 4687 1.00 0.45 1.22 113.6 5.22 0.6149 P 3.0 22.8 2195 5103 1.00 0.50 1.31 132.5 5.52 0.6150 P 3.0 22.8 2195 5038 1.01 0.57 1.09 129.6 5.41 0.6151 T 4.3 22.8 2195 5478 1.01 0.81 1.25 149.6 6.05 0.7452 T 4.3 22.8 2195 5694 1.13 0.83 1.60 159.5 6.41 0.8353 T 4.3 22.8 2195 5798 1.13 0.92 1.59 164.2 6.25 0.8354 C 6.6 22.8 2195 5615 1.14 1.05 1.48 155.9 6.16 1.0655 C 6.6 22.8 2195 6101 1.39 1.16 1.31 178.0 6.14 1.2856 P 3.0 13.7 2409 5686 1.14 0.72 1.93 136.0 5.73 0.6557 P 3.0 13.7 2409 5789 1.13 0.73 1.93 140.3 5.91 0.6458 NT 4.3 13.7 2409 5980 1.13 0.89 2.09 148.2 6.14 0.7959 ENT 4.3 13.7 2409 6290 1.14 0.97 2.06 161.1 6.48 0.7960 P 3.0 22.8 2409 5311 1.01 0.48 1.36 120.4 5.57 0.5361 P 3.0 22.8 2409 5921 1.49 0.62 1.33 145.8 5.86 0.6862 PT 4.3 22.8 2409 5839 1.01 0.62 1.22 142.4 6.22 0.6563 4.3 22.8 2409 6029 1.23 0.86 1.31 150.2 5.58 0.8064 P 6.6 22.8 2409 5278 1.02 0.53 1.05 119.0 5.61 0.7365 PT 6.6 22.8 2409 6064 1.01 0.67 1.64 151.7 6.31 0.8266 T 6.6 22.8 2409 6171 1.01 0.80 1.26 156.1 6.61 0.8267 4.3 31.9 2409 6162 1.13 0.74 1.45 155.7 5.45 0.6968 PT 4.3 31.9 2409 5954 1.13 0.79 1.07 147.1 6.09 0.6969 ET 6.6 31.9 2409 6505 1.14 0.78 1.26 170.0 6.29 0.8770 6.6 31.9 2409 5883 1.14 0.78 1.10 144.2 5.61 0.8771 T 6.6 31.9 2409 6219 1.14 0.81 1.22 158.1 6.32 0.8772 N 6.6 31.9 2409 5919 1.11 0.91 3.20 145.7 5.99 0.8773 PT 3.0 22.8 2743 6514 1.19 0.44 1.48 137.5 6.25 0.4674 P 3.0 22.8 2743 6227 1.13 0.52 1.52 127.0 5.86 0.4975 NT 3.0 22.8 2743 6523 1.34 0.57 2.31 137.8 6.18 0.5176 P 3.0 22.8 2743 6433 1.13 0.70 1.93 134.5 5.62 0.4977 PT 4.3 22.8 2743 6664 1.11 0.55 1.90 142.9 6.26 0.6078 PT 6.6 22.8 2743 6500 1.01 0.42 1.35 136.9 6.42 0.6979 P 6.6 22.8 2743 6494 1.14 0.61 1.65 136.7 5.87 0.7780 PT 3.0 22.8 3018 7209 1.00 0.46 1.71 138.9 6.33 0.3881 P 3.0 22.8 3018 6669 1.00 0.46 1.62 121.0 5.17 0.3882 PT 4.3 22.8 3018 7019 1.01 0.48 1.73 132.6 6.33 0.4783 P 3.0 22.8 3200 6589 1.01 0.47 1.25 105.9 5.56 0.3584 P 3.0 22.8 2195 5029 1.12 0.61 1.41 129.2 5.62 0.6885 PT 3.0 22.8 2195 5511 1.25 0.66 1.28 151.1 6.14 0.7586 P 3.0 22.8 2195 5170 1.12 0.66 1.58 135.6 5.82 0.6887 P 3.0 22.8 2195 5570 1.34 0.67 1.24 153.8 5.63 0.7188 P 3.0 22.8 2195 5493 1.25 0.71 1.36 150.3 5.93 0.7589 P 3.0 22.8 2195 4964 1.49 0.71 1.21 126.2 5.30 0.7890 3.0 22.8 2195 5703 1.38 0.79 1.70 159.9 5.59 0.8291 T 3.0 22.8 2195 5599 1.14 0.83 1.48 155.1 6.17 0.6892 3.0 22.8 2195 5954 1.10 0.89 1.92 171.3 5.87 0.7893 PT 4.3 22.8 2195 5702 1.02 0.66 0.99 159.8 6.62 0.6694 T 4.3 22.8 2195 5565 1.00 0.77 1.35 153.6 6.16 0.7495 T 4.3 22.8 2195 5820 1.20 0.77 1.12 165.2 6.79 0.7796 4.3 22.8 2195 5418 1.01 0.78 1.77 146.9 5.91 0.8797 T 4.3 22.8 2195 5664 1.13 0.83 1.43 158.1 6.26 0.8298 4.3 22.8 2195 5511 1.26 0.96 1.35 151.1 5.84 0.9299 T 6.6 22.8 2195 5603 1.01 0.84 1.14 155.3 6.02 0.95100 T 6.6 22.8 2195 5572 1.02 0.92 1.14 153.9 6.08 0.95101 T 6.6 22.8 2195 5817 1.20 0.93 0.94 165.1 6.27 0.98102 T 6.6 22.8 2195 5765 1.01 0.94 1.35 162.7 6.34 0.94103 C 6.6 22.8 2195 6061 1.39 1.10 1.57 176.2 6.18 1.28104 C 6.6 22.8 2195 5949 1.26 1.11 1.17 171.1 6.26 1.16105 PN 3.0 13.7 2409 5696 1.12 0.52 2.04 136.4 5.87 0.64106 PT 3.0 22.8 2409 5689 1.00 0.40 1.43 136.1 6.28 0.53107 P 3.0 22.8 2409 5343 1.20 0.41 1.32 121.7 5.54 0.55108 PT 3.0 22.8 2409 5602 1.02 0.45 1.01 132.5 6.44 0.47109 P 3.0 22.8 2409 5474 1.14 0.50 1.34 127.2 5.71 0.60110 P 3.0 22.8 2409 5522 1.23 0.53 1.29 129.2 5.59 0.66111 P 3.0 22.8 2409 5686 1.00 0.58 1.96 136.0 5.96 0.62112 P 3.0 22.8 2409 5268 1.25 0.60 1.52 118.6 5.35 0.65113 P 4.3 22.8 2409 5832 1.13 0.59 1.44 142.1 5.86 0.72114 PT 4.3 22.8 2409 5816 1.02 0.61 0.98 141.4 6.47 0.58115 PT 4.3 22.8 2409 5681 1.01 0.64 1.66 135.8 6.27 0.65116 PT 4.3 22.8 2409 5752 1.20 0.64 1.23 138.7 6.12 0.67117 P 4.3 22.8 2409 5385 1.13 0.70 1.49 123.5 5.34 0.72118 P 4.3 22.8 2409 5665 1.13 0.73 1.24 135.1 5.28 0.72119 PT 4.3 22.8 2409 6094 1.26 0.76 1.66 152.9 6.41 0.80120 PT 6.6 22.8 2409 5937 1.01 0.67 1.33 146.4 6.23 0.83121 PT 6.6 22.8 2409 6032 1.14 0.75 1.09 150.4 6.24 0.92122 6.6 22.8 2409 5890 1.13 0.82 1.24 144.5 5.60 0.92123 T 6.6 22.8 2409 6096 1.21 0.88 1.14 153.0 6.09 0.86124 P 3.0 31.9 2409 5679 1.14 0.44 1.14 135.7 5.92 0.57125 PT 3.0 31.9 2409 5792 1.13 0.49 1.19 140.4 6.20 0.56126 PT 3.0 31.9 2409 5814 1.34 0.52 1.09 141.3 6.02 0.59127 PT 4.3 31.9 2409 5931 1.13 0.62 1.71 146.2 6.25 0.69128 PT 4.3 31.9 2409 6101 1.35 0.74 1.28 153.2 6.32 0.72129 6.6 31.9 2409 5909 1.35 0.80 1.48 145.2 5.77 0.91130 P 3.0 41.0 2409 5614 1.13 0.30 1.55 133.0 5.67 0.54131 P 3.0 41.0 2409 5703 1.14 0.46 1.18 136.7 5.89 0.54132 P 3.0 41.0 2409 5555 1.12 0.47 1.28 130.5 5.77 0.54133 P 4.3 41.0 2409 5962 1.11 0.63 1.18 147.4 5.97 0.66134 P 6.6 41.0 2409 5870 1.14 0.67 1.16 143.6 5.92 0.84135 T 6.6 41.0 2409 6104 1.14 0.81 1.47 153.3 6.16 0.84136 HT 6.6 41.0 2409 6172 1.14 0.85 1.06 156.2 6.45 0.84137 HPT 3.0 22.8 2743 6529 1.01 0.46 1.66 138.0 6.25 0.44138 HPT 3.0 22.8 2743 6564 1.00 0.55 1.96 139.3 6.28 0.44139 HPT 4.3 22.8 2743 6485 1.12 0.46 1.83 136.4 6.11 0.60140 HPT 4.3 22.8 2743 6367 1.12 0.50 1.79 132.1 6.00 0.60141 HPT 4.3 22.8 2743 6501 1.20 0.50 1.18 137.0 6.42 0.56142 HPT 4.3 22.8 2743 6087 1.00 0.69 2.00 121.9 5.55 0.54143 HPT 4.3 22.8 2743 6464 1.03 0.70 1.54 135.6 6.48 0.55144 HP 6.6 22.8 2743 6348 1.01 0.55 1.59 131.4 5.98 0.68145 HPT 6.6 22.8 2743 6479 1.20 0.57 1.08 136.2 6.07 0.71146 HP 6.6 22.8 2743 6638 1.12 0.60 1.98 142.0 5.87 0.77147 HPT 6.6 22.8 2743 6561 1.14 0.68 1.53 139.2 6.22 0.76148 HPT 6.6 22.8 2743 6754 1.14 0.70 1.76 146.2 6.51 0.76149 HP 4.3 22.8 3018 6521 1.00 0.58 1.95 116.1 5.70 0.47150 T 4.3 22.8 2195 5789 1.11 0.78 1.28 163.8 6.34 0.82151 C 6.6 22.8 2195 5868 1.26 1.01 1.16 167.4 6.11 1.17152 HT 4.3 22.8 2409 6078 1.26 0.86 1.45 152.3 6.14 0.80153 HPT 4.3 31.9 2409 6089 1.11 0.73 1.27 152.7 6.13 0.68154 PT 4.3 41.0 2409 5947 1.13 0.55 1.30 146.8 6.11 0.66155 HPT 4.3 41.0 2409 6026 1.35 0.63 1.20 150.1 6.10 0.69156 HT 6.6 41.0 2409 6267 1.35 0.97 1.03 160.1 6.28 0.87157 PT 3.0 22.8 2195 5835 1.11 0.62 1.55 165.9 6.18 0.68158 PT 3.0 22.8 2195 5616 1.24 0.68 1.67 155.9 6.12 0.75159 3.0 22.8 2195 5580 1.64 0.88 1.30 154.3 5.65 0.86160 3.0 22.8 2195 5766 1.36 0.96 1.69 162.7 5.49 0.83161 4.3 22.8 2195 5750 1.11 0.91 1.72 162.0 5.85 0.96162 T 4.3 22.8 2195 5892 1.26 0.93 1.45 168.5 6.60 0.92163 PT 6.6 22.8 2195 5445 1.03 0.53 1.01 148.1 6.36 0.84164 C 6.6 22.8 2195 5829 1.23 1.17 1.72 165.6 6.10 1.16165 C 6.6 22.8 2195 5934 1.36 1.31 2.85 170.4 5.76 1.27166 NP 3.0 13.7 2409 5783 1.11 0.72 2.66 140.0 5.93 0.65167 PT 3.0 22.8 2409 5843 1.34 0.38 1.25 142.5 6.04 0.62168 P 3.0 22.8 2409 5684 1.11 0.39 1.51 135.9 5.90 0.59169 PT 4.3 22.8 2409 5959 1.01 0.60 1.97 147.3 6.13 0.77170 P 3.0 41.0 2409 5698 1.11 0.38 1.40 136.5 5.84 0.54171 HT 6.6 41.0 2409 6192 1.11 0.80 1.62 157.0 6.39 0.83172 HPT 3.0 22.8 2743 6559 1.11 0.39 1.65 139.1 6.51 0.49173 P 3.0 22.8 2195 5464 1.01 0.64 1.58 149.0 5.99 0.72174 3.0 22.8 2195 5725 1.11 0.80 1.66 160.9 5.45 0.79175 PT 4.3 22.8 2195 5616 1.01 0.70 1.63 155.9 6.00 0.87176 C 6.6 22.8 2195 6055 1.01 1.32 2.45 175.9 6.31 1.11177 C 6.6 22.8 2195 5774 1.11 1.37 2.30 163.1 5.47 1.21178 PT 3.0 13.7 2409 5906 1.34 0.60 1.69 145.2 6.22 0.67179 NT 3.0 22.8 2195 5419 1.00 0.56 2.01 146.9 6.12 0.71180 3.0 22.8 2195 5583 1.39 0.78 1.33 154.4 5.82 0.83181 3.0 22.8 2195 5618 1.38 0.89 1.60 156.0 5.59 0.82182 4.3 22.8 2195 5413 1.34 0.85 1.35 146.7 5.68 0.86183 C 6.6 22.8 2195 5796 1.11 1.25 1.75 164.1 5.73 1.21184 C 6.6 22.8 2195 5774 1.01 1.49 4.73 163.1 5.76 1.11185 PT 4.3 22.8 2409 5635 1.00 0.58 1.70 133.9 6.06 0.64__________________________________________________________________________ TABLE II______________________________________Item Process Temp Disc Draw #FraysNo. Type .degree.C. T1/T2 Stack Ratio 1000 m______________________________________1 A 160 30/10 1/7/1 1.409 10.32 A 170 -- 1/71/ 1.409 15.13 A 170 35/10 1/7/1 1.478 16.04 A 170 -- 1/7/1 1.478 22.95 A 180 32/8 1C/7/1 1.478 9.46 B 180 32/8 1/7/1 1.478 07 B 170 -- 1/7/1 1.478 08 B 180 -- 1/7/1 1.478 09 B 190 -- 1/7/1 1.478 0.110 B 200 -- 1/7/1 1.478 0.311 B 200 --/28 2/4/1 1.487 5.712 B 200 --/12 2/6/1 1.487 0.413 B 200 -- 1/4/1 1.487 5.714 B 200 --/17 2/6/1 1.575 5.215 B 200 --/14 1/7/1 1.575 2.016 B 190 -- 1/7/1 1.575 1.417 B 180 -- 1/7/1 1.575 0.718 A 180 -- 2/6/1 1.575 200______________________________________ TABLE III__________________________________________________________________________Feed yarn Properties Draw Texturing Process Textured Yarn PropertiesYarn Disc Draw Eb TBn #FraysCount (dpf)s Type T1/T2 Stack Ratio (dpf).sub.D % g/dd 1000 m__________________________________________________________________________220-325 0.69 A 52/54 2/5/1 1.409 0.51 13.9 1.79 954220-325 0.69 B 55/54 1/7/1 1.379 0.51 38.8 4.22 1.4220-250 0.88 A 38/20 2/5/1 1.409 0.66 29.5 3.23 474220-250 0.88 B 50/40 1/7/1 1.379 0.66 50.8 5.08 1.4__________________________________________________________________________ TABLE IV__________________________________________________________________________0 ITEM 1 Lq 2 Qa 3 SPIN 4 SPUN 5 DTV 6 DS 7 EB 8 TBnNo. CM MPM MPM DPF % % % G/DD 9 SF__________________________________________________________________________1 P 4.32 31.9 2408 0.91 0.48 1.32 141 5.80 0.662 T 3.05 22.8 2408 0.90 0.75 1.00 123 6.04 0.423 P 3.05 22.8 2742 0.60 0.33 1.94 104 5.54 0.324 PT 4.32 22.8 2742 0.90 0.63 1.13 129 6.47 0.435 PT 4.32 22.8 3656 0.90 0.44 1.47 103 6.04 0.286 P 3.05 22.8 2194 0.86 0.45 1.01 125 5.67 0.527 PT 4.32 22.8 2408 0.76 0.56 1.13 132 6.33 0.498 PT 3.05 41.0 2408 0.91 0.45 1.29 136 6.23 0.529 P 3.05 22.8 2742 0.86 0.40 1.09 111 5.54 0.3810 PT 3.05 22.8 2742 0.76 0.45 1.24 113 6.00 0.3411 P 4.32 22.8 2742 0.76 0.49 1.38 108 5.28 0.4112 P 4.32 22.8 2742 0.86 0.53 1.41 121 5.82 0.4613 PT 3.05 22.8 3016 0.81 0.35 1.65 123 6.54 0.3714 P 4.32 22.8 3016 0.81 0.67 1.95 109 5.05 0.4515 PT 4.32 22.8 3199 0.86 0.39 1.44 120 6.51 0.3716 P 6.60 22.8 3199 0.86 0.43 1.23 116 5.62 0.4717 P 3.05 22.8 2194 0.85 0.52 1.03 129 5.94 0.5218 PT 3.05 22.8 2408 0.68 0.39 1.56 132 6.69 0.4319 P 3.05 22.8 2408 0.85 0.54 1.31 119 5.71 0.4520 PT 4.32 22.8 2408 0.76 0.44 1.19 131 6.53 0.4921 P 6.60 22.8 2408 0.86 0.56 1.17 142 5.96 0.7122 P 3.05 22.8 2742 0.75 0.32 1.14 113 5.96 0.3323 P 3.05 22.8 2742 0.85 0.51 1.12 113 5.31 0.3824 P 4.32 22.8 2742 0.86 0.53 1.29 120 5.83 0.4625 P 4.32 22.8 2742 0.91 0.54 1.79 126 5.73 0.5726 P 6.60 22.8 2742 0.86 0.60 1.16 132 6.59 0.5927 PT 6.60 22.8 3199 0.86 0.40 0.90 113 5.20 0.4728 P 6.60 22.8 2408 0.99 0.73 1.80 148 6.31 0.8229 3.05 22.8 2194 0.91 0.77 1.76 155 5.78 0.6530 PT 4.32 22.8 2194 0.86 0.67 1.10 148 6.52 0.6431 T 4.32 22.8 2194 0.91 0.77 1.63 153 6.08 0.7932 PR 3.05 22.8 2408 0.61 0.50 1.48 121 6.24 0.3933 PR 3.05 22.8 2408 0.69 0.56 1.40 129 6.41 0.4334 PR 3.05 22.8 2408 0.81 0.62 1.47 132 6.33 0.5135 PR 3.05 22.8 2408 0.91 0.62 1.74 141 6.43 0.5736 P 4.32 22.8 2408 0.81 0.35 1.59 127 5.40 0.6237 PR 4.32 22.8 2408 0.86 0.39 1.20 139 6.42 0.5538 P 4.32 22.8 2408 0.61 0.50 1.43 123 5.96 0.4739 P 4.32 22.8 2408 0.69 0.50 1.45 129 5.82 0.5340 P 4.32 22.8 2408 0.91 0.55 1.78 134 5.54 0.6941 PR 3.05 31.9 2408 0.91 0.34 1.31 139 6.23 0.5442 T 4.32 41.0 2408 0.91 0.49 1.52 146 6.28 0.6343 PT 3.05 22.8 2742 0.61 0.34 1.54 105 5.59 0.3244 P 3.05 22.8 2742 0.91 0.52 1.79 120 5.65 0.4745 PT 3.05 22.8 2742 0.81 0.57 1.67 121 6.11 0.4246 P 4.32 22.8 2742 0.61 0.48 1.60 109 5.66 0.3947 PT 4.32 22.8 2742 0.81 0.64 1.86 130 6.28 0.5148 P 4.32 22.8 2742 0.91 0.68 1.64 131 5.57 0.5749 PT 6.60 22.8 2742 0.86 0.53 1.27 138 6.06 0.5950 6.60 22.8 3016 0.81 0.77 2.64 121 5.81 0.5751 PT 3.05 22.8 2194 0.90 0.54 1.89 157 6.06 0.6452 PT 4.32 22.8 2194 0.86 0.54 1.49 143 6.49 0.6353 T 4.32 22.8 2194 0.91 0.82 1.72 152 6.16 0.7954 P 3.05 22.8 2408 0.80 0.46 2.16 126 5.80 0.5055 PT 3.05 22.8 2408 0.90 0.59 1.96 137 6.24 0.5656 P 4.32 22.8 2408 0.66 0.45 1.09 135 5.58 0.5657 P 4.32 22.8 2408 0.91 0.52 1.52 137 5.78 0.6958 P 4.32 22.8 2408 0.81 0.55 1.98 125 5.41 0.6259 PT 4.32 22.8 2408 0.69 0.62 1.73 126 6.13 0.5360 6.60 22.8 2408 0.81 0.77 2.00 131 5.53 0.7861 PT 3.05 31.9 2408 0.90 0.40 1.53 139 6.54 0.5362 4.32 31.9 2408 0.91 0.63 1.97 142 6.19 0.6663 PT 3.05 41.0 2408 0.90 0.42 1.21 140 6.58 0.5164 PT 4.32 41.0 2408 0.91 0.38 1.21 140 6.16 0.6365 PT 3.05 22.8 2742 0.90 0.33 1.20 121 6.34 0.3566 PT 3.05 22.8 2742 0.80 0.41 2.22 138 6.39 0.4267 PT 4.32 22.8 2742 0.76 0.35 1.39 116 6.00 0.4168 PT 4.32 22.8 2742 0.61 0.42 1.64 115 6.12 0.3969 P 4.32 22.8 2742 0.81 0.63 1.75 117 5.72 0.5170 6.60 22.8 2742 0.81 0.83 1.67 127 5.88 0.6571 P 4.32 22.8 3016 0.81 0.62 1.96 116 5.98 0.4572 6.60 22.8 3016 0.81 0.78 1.93 109 5.02 0.5773 PT 4.32 22.8 3199 0.86 0.46 1.59 138 6.00 0.3774 PT 4.32 22.8 2408 0.90 0.49 0.97 140 6.74 0.51__________________________________________________________________________

Claims

1. A unitary multi-filament polyester yarn, wherein the polyester polymer has a relative viscosity (LRV) of 13 to 23 and a zero-shear melting point (T.sub.m.sup.o) of 240.degree. to 265.degree. C., wherein the filaments of said multi-filament yarn are at least 150 flat filaments of denier 0.5 to 2.2 that show unitary filament entanglement, and wherein said yarn has an elongation-to-break (E.sub.B) of 40 to 160%, a normalized yarn tenacity-at-break-denier (T.sub.B).sub.n of at least 5 g/dd, and where (T.sub.B).sub.n =Tenacity(g/d)(RDR).sub.s (20.8/LRV).sup.0.75, and where (RDR).sub.s is the residual spun draw ratio and is defined by (RDR).sub.s =�1+(E.sub.B)/100!, and an along-end draw tension coefficient of variation (DTV, %) of less than 1%.

2. A yarn according to claim 1, having an elongation-to-break (E.sub.B) of 40 to 90%, and a (1-S/S.sub.m) value of at least 0.85, where S is the boil-off shrinkage and S.sub.m is the maximum shrinkage potential.

3. A unitary multi-filament polyester yarn, wherein the polyester polymer has a relative viscosity (LRV) of 13 to 23 and a zero-shear melting point (T.sub.m.sup.o) of 240.degree. to 265.degree. C., wherein the filaments of said multi-filament yarn are at least 150 flat filaments of denier 0.2 to 1 that show unitary filament entanglement, and wherein said yarn has an elongation-to-break (E.sub.B) of 15 to 40%, a normalized yarn tenacity-at-break-denier (T.sub.B).sub.n of at least 5 g/d, where (T.sub.B).sub.n =Tenacity(g/d)(RDR).sub.s (20.8/LRV).sup.0.75, and where (RDR).sub.s is the residual spun draw ratio and is defined by (RDR).sub.s =�1+(E.sub.B)/100!, and an along-end draw tension coefficient of variation (DTV, %) of less than 1%.

4. A Unitary multi-filament polyester yarn, wherein the polyester has a relative viscosity (LRV) of 13 to 23 and a zero-shear melting point (T.sub.m.sup.o) of 240.degree. to 265.degree. C., wherein the filaments of said multi-filament yarn are at least 150 textured filaments of denier 0.2 to 1 that show unitary filament entanglement, and wherein said yarn has an elongation-to-break (E.sub.B) of 15% to a normalized tenacity-at-break-denier (T.sub.B).sub.n of at least 4 g/dd, where (T.sub.B).sub.n =Tenacity(g/d) (RDR).sub.s (20.8/LRV).sup.0.75, and where (RDR).sub.s is the residual spun draw ratio and is defined by (RDR).sub.s =�1+(E.sub.B)/100!, and a Fray Count of less than 10 per 1000 meters.