The present invention is directed to a hydratable concentrated surfactant cleansing composition comprising low salt levels and a method of making an end use composition by diluting with water. This invention has particular application in the field of personal care, particularly hair care.
Liquid based cleansing compositions, such as shampoos and body washes, are common and enjoyed by many consumers. Such compositions typically have water as the predominant ingredient, and they are often sold in plastic bottles or tubes. The compositions are conventionally formulated to have a viscosity that is customary for consumer use and easy for evacuation from the package they are sold in.
It is often publicised that the world's oceans will soon contain more plastic than fish. Given environmental concerns and the desire for consumers and conscious companies to do more for the planet, there is a strong desire to use less plastic when selling products, including consumer products. In view of this, efforts have been made to sell product in concentrate form, and therefore, ship product that comprises less water, in smaller packages.
Surfactant containing cleansing products, in the form of concentrates are known in the prior art.
WO 19/205086 (Beiersdorf) describes a hair cleansing composition comprising anionic and amphoteric surfactants, a natural oil, an ethoxylated hydrogenated castor oil and a thickening agent.
US 2009/0208434 A (Symrise) discloses 3-(4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl)-1-(4-hydroxyphenyl)-1-propanone and its use in cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations. A concentrated body wash and shampoo are exemplified.
WO 1994/16680 (Unilever) discloses an aqueous dilution-thickening concentrated personal washing compositions comprising: a) 20-60 wt % surfactant other than soap or primary alcohol sulphate, and b) 1-20 wt % electrolyte, in a lamellar phase.
WO10149425 (Unilever) discloses a concentrated shampoo composition comprising from 27 to 70 wt % cleansing surfactant, a conditioning gel phase, a short chain diol and an oil, the gel phase comprising fatty material, a gel network anionic surfactant and a cationic surfactant; wherein the condition gel network has no overall charge or is anionic.
WO 2020/044235 (Lonza) discloses a high-concentrate flowable liquid anionic surfactant composition comprising (a) an anionic surfactant solution comprising an alkyl ether sulfate, (b) a viscosity modifier comprising an aromatic alcohol, a linear or branched polyglyceryl ester, alkyl glyceryl ether or combinations thereof, and (c) an aqueous solvent wherein upon dilution with an aqueous solvent, the composition remains flowable.
Concentrates may be diluted at point of use to form a liquid product that is then usable in the conventional way.
A difficulty encountered with such concentrates is that consumers often do not like adding additional water to the concentrate and having to convert, for example by stirring, the concentrate into a usable end product. As to the hydrated product, common complaints include that the process is time consuming and the resulting product is not homogeneous, and has undesirable viscosity, after adding water.
Indeed, we have found that such concentrated compositions take extended time to dilute properly, prior to use by the consumer and some consumers do not allow enough time for full dilution to take place. It is, therefore, desirable to provide a concentrate that dilutes quickly for easier and more efficient use.
The properties of the diluted concentrate are also important. Consumers strongly prefer thick liquids because they associate thickness with quality, good spreadability and pourability. Ideally, the diluted product of a concentrate would have similar viscosity to a standard format personal care product, such as a shampoo.
Despite the prior art there remains the need for improved concentrated shampoo compositions.
Typically, the phase structure of a regular, non-concentrated shampoo composition is in the isotropic phase. However, in providing a concentrated shampoo, as the surfactant concentration is increased, the typical rheology moves from the isotropic phase to the hexagonal phase. The hexagonal phase provides a composition which is too viscous to be suitable for the typical consumer and can only be diluted very slowly.
Salts, such as inorganic salts, for example, sodium chloride, potassium chloride, are commonly used in surfactant containing formulations to help control viscosity. An additional problem is encountered in manufacturing, where salt can cause problems with corrosion of manufacturing vessels. There is a need to reduce the salt level without decreasing the final viscosity of the dilute end product.
We have now found that salt can be reduced with the addition of phase modifiers, without compromising the desired high quality viscosity properties of the formulation.
We have now surprisingly found that a highly concentrated composition, in the hexagonal phase, can be modified into a lamellar crystal phase by the use of sodium benzoate and additional nonionic phase modifying materials. This composition is capable of transforming rapidly to an isotropic phase upon dilution to form an end product with desirable viscosity.
The composition can be used as a concentrate in small volumes and diluted at point of use. Thus, it is ready to use, in dilute form, at the time that it is required. It can be diluted with water in refill packaging to ensure a reduction in plastic waste.
In a first aspect, the invention provides a hydratable concentrated surfactant composition comprising:
An end use composition can be made by hydrating the hydratable concentrated surfactant composition of the first aspect by dilution with water.
Preferably, the end use composition has a weight ratio of hydratable concentrated surfactant composition to water of from 1:1 to 1:6, more preferably 1:1 to 1:5.
Preferably, the end use composition has a viscosity of from 1000 to 10,000 mPas−1 (cps), preferably from 1000 to 8,000, more preferably to 1000 to 7,500 mPas−1 (cps), when measured at 30° C. on a Brookfield DV2T using a Spindle RV-05 at 20 rpm for 60 seconds on a Helipath stand.
The hydratable concentrated surfactant composition has a viscosity of from 8,000 to 200,000 mPas−1 (cps), preferably from 10,000 to 100,000, more preferably from 15,000 to 90,000 mPas−1 (cps), most preferably, from 15,000 to 75,000 mPas−1 (cps).
Upon dilution the viscosity decreases, thus resulting in an end use composition having a viscosity of from 1000 to 10,000 mPas−1 (cps), preferably from 1000 to 8,000 mPas−1 (cps), more preferably from 1000 to 7,500 mPas−1 (cps), when measured at 30° C. on a Brookfield DV2T using a Spindle RV-05 at 20 rpm for 60 seconds on a Helipath stand.
In a second aspect, the present invention provides a method of preparing an end use composition, the method comprising the step of diluting a hydratable concentrated surfactant composition of the first aspect with water. Preferably, the method comprises a step of applying moderate shear such as shaking or stirring to the mixture of hydratable composition and water to yield the end use composition in less than 10 minutes, preferably less than 5 minutes, more preferably in less than 3 minutes, still more preferably in less than 2 minutes, even more preferably in less than 1 minute and most preferably in less than 30 seconds.
Preferably, the hydratable concentrated surfactant composition is diluted at a hydratable concentrated surfactant composition to water weight ratio of from 1:1 to 1:6, more preferably from 1:1 to 1:5. Preferably, the water has a temperature of from 10 to 50 degrees Celsius.
The diluted product is formed before it is used. Preferably, the composition is diluted before it is applied, for example to hair or skin, in a suitable container. In a preferred embodiment, the container is a refill package.
When making the hydratable concentrated surfactant composition of the present invention, the desired ingredients may be mixed with conventional apparatus under moderate shear and atmospheric conditions, with temperature being from 35 to 80° C.
Water is added to the hydratable concentrated surfactant composition to produce an end use composition. Moderate shear such as shaking (or stirring) in a container will yield the end use composition in less than 5 minutes, preferably in less than 3 minutes, and most preferably, in less than 2 minutes. In an embodiment of the invention, the end use composition is made in less than 1 minute, even preferably, less than 30 seconds. The end use composition is then ready to use.
In the present invention, the hydratable concentrated surfactant composition should be formulated such that upon dilution, the desired component/ingredient levels (such as sulfate levels) in the end use composition are attained.
The hydratable concentrated surfactant composition of the present invention will have a starting viscosity that is higher than the final viscosity after water is added and the resulting end use composition is made.
The hydratable concentrated surfactant composition and end use composition typically have a pH from 3 to 6.
The end use composition is made by combining water and the hydratable concentrated surfactant composition and mixing (with moderate shear like stirring, preferably shaking) to produce the end use composition.
The compositions of the invention are cosmetic and non-therapeutic.
The end use composition can be a personal care cleaning composition and is preferably a shampoo, make-up wash, facial wash, hand wash or personal care liquid body wash, more preferably a shampoo or a body wash, most preferably a shampoo.
The end use composition is one suitable to be wiped or washed off, and preferably, washed off with water.
In an embodiment of the invention, the end use shampoo composition can preferably have a viscosity from 1,000 to 6,000.
Viscosity, unless noted otherwise, is measured at 30° C. on a Brookfield DV2T using a Spindle RV-05 at 20 rpm for 60 seconds on a Helipath stand.
Preferably, the hydratable concentrated surfactant compositions of the invention are free from silicone. In the context of the invention, by free from is meant having less than 0.4 weight %, more preferably less than 0.1 weight %, even more preferably less than 0.05 weight %, still more preferably less than 0.001 weight %, yet preferably less than 0.0001 weight %, and most preferably 0 weight % of silicone by weight of the total composition.
The hydratable concentrated surfactant composition of the invention includes an anionic surfactant, selected from sodium laureth ether sulphate (SLES), sodium pareth ether sulphate (SPES) and mixtures thereof.
In a typical hydratable concentrated surfactant composition of the invention the level of anionic surfactant will generally range from 30 to 50%, preferably from 40 to 50 (by weight based on the total weight of the composition and 100% activity).
The hydratable concentrated surfactant composition of the invention includes a co-surfactant, which is selected from a betaine, cocamide monoethanolamide (CMEA) and mixtures thereof.
The level of co-surfactant is from 4 to 12 wt %, preferably 4 to 10 wt %, most preferably from 4 to 7.5 wt %, by weight based on the total weight of the hydratable concentrated surfactant composition and based on 100% active level.
Betaines that are suitable for use in the present invention can be represented by the general formula:
R10[C(O)NH—(CH2)y]z—N+(R11)(R12)CH2CO2− (IV)
where R10 is C6 to C30, more particularly C6 to C24 alkyl, z is 0 or 1, R11 and R12 are independently alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or carboxyalkyl of 1 to 3 carbon atoms, and y is 2 or 3; and salts thereof. In one embodiment, at least half of the groups R10 are C8 to C18 alkyl. In another embodiment, at least half of the groups R10 are C10 to C14 alkyl. R10 may be saturated or unsaturated. In one embodiment, R10 is derived from coconut oil or palm kernel oil. In one embodiment R11 and R12 are methyl.
R10—N+(R11)(R12)CH2CO2− (IVa)
where R10, R11, and R12 are as described above, and the amidobetaines:
R10C(O)NH—(CH2)y—N+(R11)(R12)CH2CO3− (IVb)
where R10, R11, R12, and y are as described above.
Preferred betaines are oleyl betaine, caprylamidopropyl betaine, lauramidopropyl betaine, isostearylamidopropyl betaine, and cocamidopropyl betaine and mixtures thereof. Most preferably, the co-surfactant is cocamidopropyl betaine.
Most preferably, the cosurfactant is selected from cocamidopropylbetaine (CAPB), cocamide monoethanolamide (CMEA) and mixtures thereof.
The weight ratio of a) the anionic surfactant to b) the co-surfactant is from 3:1 to 10:1, preferably from 3.5:1 to 9:1, most preferably from 3.7:1 to 8.7:1.
The hydratable concentrated surfactant composition of the invention comprises sodium benzoate. We have found that sodium benzoate moves the hexagonal phase to a lamellar phase, making it easier to dilute quickly.
Sodium benzoate is present in an amount of from 0.2 wt % to 3 wt %, preferably 0.5 wt % to 3 wt %, by weight of the total composition.
The weight ratio of sodium benzoate to total surfactant (a)+(b) is 1:5-1:75, preferably from 1:10-1:65, more preferably 1:15-1:50 and most preferably from 1:15-1:35.
The compositions of the invention comprise additional phase modifiers, which are selected from nonionic esters comprising a carbon chain having a carbon chain length of C8-C12, preferably C8-C10.
Preferred nonionic phase modifiers are long chain esters having a carbon chain length of C8-C12, preferably C8-C10.
Preferred long chain esters, as nonionic phase modifiers, are selected from alkyl acetates, fatty alcohols and fatty acids, most preferably alkyl acetates.
Preferred alkyl acetate nonionic phase modifiers are selected from octyl acetate, decyl acetate, dodecyl acetate and mixtures thereof, most preferably decyl acetate.
The additional phase modifiers are present in an amount of from 0.2 wt % to 3 wt %, preferably 0.5 wt % to 3 wt %, by weight of the total composition.
The hydratable concentrated surfactant composition of the invention comprises a viscosity modifier, which is an inorganic electrolyte, to increase the viscosity of the dilute end composition. Suitable inorganic electrolytes for use in the invention include metal chlorides (such as sodium chloride, potassium chloride, calcium chloride, magnesium chloride, zinc chloride, ferric chloride and aluminum chloride) and metal sulphates (such as sodium sulphate and magnesium sulphate) and mixtures thereof. The inorganic electrolyte is used to provide viscosity to the dilute end composition. Without it, the end composition is unacceptably thin to the consumer.
Mixtures of any of the above described materials may also be suitable.
Examples of preferred inorganic electrolytes for use in the invention include sodium chloride, potassium chloride, magnesium sulphate and mixtures thereof.
The level of inorganic electrolyte in compositions of the invention ranges from 0.2 to 3 wt %, preferably from 0.3 to 2.5 wt %, (by total weight of the composition).
Water makes up from 10 to 60 wt %, preferably from 20 to 60 wt % by weight based on total weight of the composition.
The pH of the hydratable composition and end use composition is from 3 to 6, preferably from 3.5 to 5.5, more preferably from 3.5 to 5, most preferably from 3.8 to 4.8. Adjusters suitable to modify or buffer the pH may be used. Such pH adjusters include triethylamine, NaOH, KOH, H2SO4, HCl, citric acid or mixtures thereof. The pH adjusters are added at amounts to yield the desired final pH. The pH values may be assessed with commercial instrumentation such as a PH meter made commercially available from Thermo Scientific®.
The composition according to the invention may comprise any of a number of ingredients which are common to hair conditioning compositions.
Other ingredients may include preservatives, conditioning enhancing polymers, colouring agents, polyols such as glycerine and polypropylene glycol, chelating agents, antioxidants such as vitamin E acetate, fragrances, antimicrobials and sunscreens. Each of these ingredients will be present in an amount effective to accomplish its purpose. Generally these optional ingredients are included individually at a level of up to about 5% by weight of the total composition.
Preferably, the further ingredients include fragrances, preservatives and conditioning enhancing polymers.
Preservatives are used in the hydratable concentrated surfactant composition and end use composition to protect against the growth of potentially harmful microorganisms.
Preferably, the preservative comprises an alkali metal salt of benzoic acid, preferably sodium benzoate and a metal ion sequestrant, which is preferably ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA).
Preferably, the concentrated composition of the invention comprises EDTA.
Cationic polymers are preferred ingredients in compositions of the invention for enhancing conditioning performance.
Suitable cationic polymers may be homopolymers which are cationically substituted or may be formed from two or more types of monomers. The weight average (Mw) molecular weight of the polymers will generally be between 100 000 and 3 million daltons. The polymers will have cationic nitrogen containing groups such as quaternary ammonium or protonated amino groups, or a mixture thereof. If the molecular weight of the polymer is too low, then the conditioning effect is poor. If too high, then there may be problems of high extensional viscosity leading to stringiness of the composition when it is poured.
The cationic nitrogen-containing group will generally be present as a substituent on a fraction of the total monomer units of the cationic polymer. Thus when the polymer is not a homopolymer it can contain spacer non-cationic monomer units. Such polymers are described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Directory, 3rd edition. The ratio of the cationic to non-cationic monomer units is selected to give polymers having a cationic charge density in the required range, which is generally from 0.2 to 3.0 meq/gm. The cationic charge density of the polymer is suitably determined via the Kjeldahl method as described in the US Pharmacopoeia under chemical tests for nitrogen determination.
Suitable cationic polymers include, for example, copolymers of vinyl monomers having cationic amine or quaternary ammonium functionalities with water soluble spacer monomers such as (meth)acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl (meth)acrylamides, alkyl (meth)acrylate, vinyl caprolactone and vinyl pyrrolidine. The alkyl and dialkyl substituted monomers preferably have C1-C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1-3 alkyl groups. Other suitable spacers include vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol, maleic anhydride, propylene glycol and ethylene glycol.
The cationic amines can be primary, secondary or tertiary amines, depending upon the particular species and the pH of the composition. In general, secondary and tertiary amines, especially tertiary, are preferred.
Amine substituted vinyl monomers and amines can be polymerised in the amine form and then converted to ammonium by quaternization.
The cationic polymers can comprise mixtures of monomer units derived from amine- and/or quaternary ammonium-substituted monomer and/or compatible spacer monomers.
Suitable (non-limiting examples of) cationic polymers include:
Other cationic polymers that can be used include cationic polysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic starch derivatives, and cationic guar gum derivatives. Cationic polysaccharide polymers suitable for use in compositions for use in the invention include monomers of the formula:
A-O—[R—N+(R1)(R2)(R3)X−],
wherein: A is an anhydroglucose residual group, such as a starch or cellulose anhydroglucose residual. R is an alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene, or hydroxyalkylene group, or combination thereof. R1, R2 and R3 independently represent alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl, or alkoxyaryl groups, each group containing up to about 18 carbon atoms. The total number of carbon atoms for each cationic moiety (i.e., the sum of carbon atoms in R1, R2 and R3) is preferably about 20 or less, and X is an anionic counterion.
Another type of cationic cellulose includes the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24. These materials are available from the Amerchol Corporation, for instance under the tradename Polymer LM-200.
Other suitable cationic polysaccharide polymers include quaternary nitrogen-containing cellulose ethers (e.g. as described in U.S. Pat. No. 3,962,418), and copolymers of etherified cellulose and starch (e.g. as described in U.S. Pat. No. 3,958,581). Examples of such materials include the polymer LR and JR series from Dow, generally referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 10.
A particularly suitable type of cationic polysaccharide polymer that can be used is a cationic guar gum derivative, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride (commercially available from Rhodia in their JAGUAR trademark series). Examples of such materials are JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C14 and JAGUAR C17.
Mixtures of any of the above cationic polymers may be used.
Cationic polymer will generally be present in a shampoo composition for use in the invention at levels of from 0.01 to 5%, preferably from 0.02 to 1%, more preferably from 0.05 to 0.8% by total weight of cationic polymer based on the total weight of the composition.
The Examples provided are to facilitate an understanding of the invention. They are not intended to limit the scope of the claims.
All amounts are wt % by total weight of the composition unless indicated otherwise.
Concentrated shampoo compositions 1-5 were prepared in accordance with the invention. Comparative concentrated shampoo compositions A-F were also prepared.
A standard non-concentrated shampoo was used as a control “0”.
The compositions in accordance with the invention, and Comparative compositions are shown in Tables 1-3 below.
All compositions had a pH in the range of 3.5 to 5.0.
All compositions had a pH in the range of 3.5 to 5.0.
All compositions had a pH in the range of 3.5 to 5.0.
The concentrated shampoos in accordance with the invention and the comparative compositions were prepared by the following method:
The surfactant phase was determined using the following method:
A polarising optical microscope (Zeiss Axio M1m Light Microscope) was used to obtain images of the compositions. A small amount of composition was placed on a microscope glass slide with a cover slip on top. In transmittance mode, a 20× magnification objective was used to capture an image under cross polarised light.
Concentrated compositions were diluted for use as dilute shampoos are follows:
In the following method, the amounts of concentrate to water that were used to make 500 g of the end use product was 1 part concentrate to 3 parts water.
Viscosities of the compositions in concentrated and diluted forms were measured at 30° C. on a Brookfield DV2T using a Spindle RV-05 at 20 rpm for 60 seconds on a Helipath stand.
Number | Date | Country | Kind |
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21211174.4 | Nov 2021 | EP | regional |
Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
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PCT/EP2022/083296 | 11/25/2022 | WO |