The present invention relates to the field of fabrics and in particular imitation leather fabrics and methods for making same.
Leather has traditionally been a popular choice of fabric for use in the garment industry due to its aesthetic and textural appeal. Due to increased public awareness and concern regarding the environmental impact of traditional leather production, and, in view of technological advances in the industry, there has been a move towards use of imitation leather fabrics as a substitute for genuine leather.
Traditionally, imitation leather fabric is formed by dip-coating a woven or knitted basis fabric in a chemical resin and then curing it to achieve an imitation leather effect. Dip-coating results in the resin being absorbed on both sides of the basis fabric such that human skin will come into direct contact with the resin when a garment made from the imitation leather fabric is being worn and this may result in skin allergies and other pathological effects. Although a lining could be added to the garment to avoid direct skin contact, this increases manufacturing time and costs and reduces the air permeability of the imitation leather fabric. The dip-coating also tends to waste a relatively large amount of polyurethane resin.
Typically, if the basis fabric is a non-stretch woven fabric, the resulting imitation leather will exhibit relatively good stability due to the weft and warp yarns being woven relatively closely and tightly together. However, this also increases stiffness and consequently, poor hand feel and comfort in the imitation leather fabric. Alternatively, where the basis fabric is a knitted fabric, the stiffness is relatively low due to the relative flexibility of the knitted loop structure. Consequently, this provides a better hand feel and comfort in the imitation leather fabric. However, knitted basis fabrics tend to exhibit relatively low stability when external forces are applied due to the tendency of the knitted yarn loops to deform randomly and non-uniformly. As such, imitation leather formed from knitted fabrics tend to be less stable and more susceptible to problems such as surface cracking.
The present invention seeks to alleviate at least one of the above-described problems.
The present invention may involve several broad forms. Embodiments of the present invention may include one or any combination of the different broad forms herein described.
In a first broad form, the present invention provides an imitation leather fabric formed from a basis fabric, wherein the basis fabric includes:
Typically, the first set of fibre elements may include at least one warp yarn of the first fabric layer.
Typically, the second set of fibre elements may include at least one weft yarn of the first fabric layer.
Typically, the third set of fibre elements may include at least one weft yarn of the second fabric layer.
Typically, the third set of fibre elements may be in substantial alignment with the second set of fibre elements.
Typically, the long loop blister weave may include a satin weave.
Typically, the first set of fibre elements may be relatively non-stretchable.
Typically, the second set of fibre elements may be relatively stretchable.
Typically, the third set of fibre elements may be relatively stretchable.
Typically, the third set of fibre elements may be configured to limit an amount of stretch of the second fibre elements.
Preferably, at least one of the following finishing processes may be applied to the basis fabric:
Preferably, a coating layer may be disposed on the first fabric layer.
Typically, the coating layer may includes a polyurethane resin.
Typically, the coating layer may be sprayed on to the basis fabric.
In a second broad form, the present invention provides a method for producing an imitation leather fabric from a basis fabric, the method including the steps of:
Typically, the first set of fibre elements may include at least one warp yarn of the first fabric layer.
Typically, the second set of fibre elements may include at least one weft yarn of the first fabric layer.
Typically, the third set of fibre elements may include at least one weft yarn of the second fabric layer.
Typically, the third set of fibre elements may be in substantial alignment with the second set of fibre elements.
Typically, the long loop blister weave may include a satin weave.
Typically, the first set of fibre elements may be relatively non-stretchable.
Typically, the second set of fibre elements may be relatively stretchable.
Typically, the third set of fibre elements may be relatively stretchable.
Typically, the third set of fibre elements may be configured to limit an amount of stretch of the second fibre elements.
Preferably, at least one of the following finishing processes are applied to the basis fabric:
Preferably, the present invention includes applying a coating layer to the basis fabric.
Typically, the coating layer may include a polyurethane resin.
Typically, the coating layer may be sprayed on to the basis fabric.
Typically, the step (i) of applying the coating layer may include:
Typically, step (ii) may include:
In a third broad form, the present invention includes a basis fabric suitable for use in producing an imitation leather, the basis fabric including:
Typically, the first set of fibre elements may include at least one warp yarn of the first fabric layer.
Typically, the second set of fibre elements may include at least one weft yarn of the first fabric layer.
Typically, the third set of fibre elements may include at least one weft yarn of the second fabric layer.
Typically, the third set of fibre elements may be in substantial alignment with the second set of fibre elements.
Typically, the long loop blister weave may include a satin weave.
Typically, the first set of fibre elements may be relatively non-stretchable.
Typically, the second set of fibre elements may be relatively stretchable.
Typically, the third set of fibre elements may be relatively stretchable.
Typically, the third set of fibre elements may be configured to limit an amount of stretch of the second fibre elements.
Preferably, at least one of the following finishing processes may be applied to the basis fabric:
Preferably, a coating layer may be disposed on the first fabric layer.
Typically, the coating layer may include a polyurethane resin.
Typically, the coating layer may be sprayed on to the basis fabric.
Advantageously, the combination of the first and second facing fabric layers in the basis fabric provides stability as well as relatively good hand feel and comfort in the imitation leather fabric.
In particular, as the first fabric layer includes first and second sets of fibre elements woven relatively closely and tightly together this configuration assists in providing stability in the basis fabric and alleviates problems such as surface cracking in the imitation leather fabric due to external forces. However, whilst the first and second sets of fibre elements are woven together relatively closely and tightly in the first fabric layer to provide stability, the second set of fibre elements (e.g. weft yarns) may be stretchable such that some degree of softness (and hence good hand feel and comfort) in the basis fabric may be afforded in comparison with existing imitations leather fabrics formed from non-stretch woven basis fabrics.
Conveniently, as the long loop third set of fibre elements of the second fabric layer may be configured to limit the amount of stretch of the second fibre elements in the first fabric layer, this may also assist in alleviating risk that the stretchiness afforded by the second set of fibre elements will compromise the stability provided by the first fabric layer. Moreover, as the second fabric layer includes the first and third sets of fibre elements woven together in a long loop blister weave, this may also alleviate overall stiffness in the basis fabric and enhances the hand feel and comfort of the imitation leather fabric, in a similar manner to knitted yarn loops.
Yet further, the combination of the first fabric layer and the second fabric layer may produce a regular and discontinuous “pothole” effect in the basis fabric which assists in improving the overall textured look and feel of the imitation leather.
Yet further, the present invention may provide waterproofing, air permeability and heat insulative characteristics.
Yet further, the present invention may not involve dip-coating the basis fabric in a polyurethane resin. Instead, the polyurethane resin coating layer may be sprayed on to a selected surface of the basis fabric thereby alleviating risk of direct contact with a wearer's skin.
The present invention will become more fully understood from the following detailed description of a preferred but non-limiting embodiment thereof, described in connection with the accompanying drawings, wherein:
Preferred embodiments of the present invention will now be described with reference to
The basis fabric includes a first fabric layer which is formed by weaving together a first set of relatively non-elastic fibre elements with a second set of relatively elastic fibre elements to form a traditional twill or plain weave (e.g. 1/1 plain, 2/1 twill, 3/1 twill and so on). In this embodiment, the first set of fibre elements include warp yarns and the second set of fibre elements include weft yarns of the first fabric layer. In this configuration, the weft and warp fibre elements are relatively closely and tightly woven together such that the weave is configured to provide stability to the imitation leather fabric when external forces act upon the imitation leather fabric.
The first set of fibre elements are made from a cotton material having a yarn count in the range of approximately 10-60 Ne. The second set of fibre elements are made from any cotton, polyester core-spun stretchable yarn or cotton, cotton core-spun stretchable yarn or a combination thereof. If the weft threads are made from a polyester material, the linear mass density should be in the range of 75-150 D. Alternatively, if the weft threads are made from a Spandex material, the linear mass density of the weft threads should typically be in the range of 40-70 D. The degree of stretch of the second set of fibre elements is approximately in the range of 20-40%.
The basis fabric also includes a second fabric layer which faces the first fabric layer. The second fabric layer is formed by weaving together a third set of fibre elements (the weft yarns of the second fabric layer) with the first set of fibre elements (which serve as both the warp yarns of the first and second fabric layers) to form long blister stiches in a satin imperial weave. The long blister stitches of the second fabric layer float over multiple fibre elements in the first set of fibre elements (e.g. over 7-15 fibre elements at a time) and are in alignment with the second fibre elements in the first fabric layer.
In this embodiment, the third set of fibre elements are made from either pure cotton, or, a combination of cotton and elastic yarns (e.g. polyester or Spandex).
The first fabric layer and the second fabric layer are woven simultaneously using a Picanol rapier weaving machine which is configured to alternately shoot the second set of fibre elements (i.e. the weft yarns of the first fabric layer) and the third set of fibre elements (i.e. the weft yarns of the second fabric layer) across the first set of fibre elements (i.e. warp yarns of the first and second fabric layers) in single or double quantities. The long loop blister stiches formed in the satin weaved second fabric layer are configured to limit the amount of stretch that is allowed in the second fibre elements of the first fabric layer so as to ensure that the stability of the basis fabric is maintained. In this regard, the length of the long loop blister stiches chosen will have a bearing upon the extent to which the first fabric layer will be allowed to stretch in the direction of the second set of fibre elements (i.e. in the weft direction of the first fabric layer) and will therefore assist in maintaining a suitable balance of relatively flexibility and stability in the imitation leather fabric.
To assist in enhancing the stability of the basis fabric, a finishing is applied to the basis fabric when in greige form. This involves fabric-face side-singeing the basis fabric at 30-45 m/min, water rinsing at 10-20 m/min at normal water temperature, heat-setting the basis fabric at a speed of 20-30 m/min with a heat set temperature of between 160-175° C., and shrinking the basis fabric at a speed of 40-50 m/min.
When the basis fabric is in greige form, it will have a relatively high shrinkage percentage rate. When it is shrunk, the long blister stitches in the second fabric layer are adapted to form more pronounced long loop configurations similar to knitted loops and thereby provide better hand feel and comfort in the imitation leather fabric. In this regard, the specific characteristics of the first set of fibre elements (including the linear mass density) should be selected taking into account the stretchability of the basis fabric, the quantity of long blister stitches on the second fabric layer and so on. If the yarn densities of the first and second sets of fibre elements in the first fabric layer are too high, there will not be sufficient shrinkage to give rise to the long loop effect on the second fabric layer as depicted in
Before coating the basis fabric, the basis fabric is desized in a composition consisting of detergent (0.5 g/Litre) in 60 litres of water at a temperature of 60° C. for 10 minutes. The basis fabric is then rinsed in water at 25° C. for 2 minutes before being tumble dried at 70° C. for 30 minutes. Thereafter, the basis fabric is sprayed with a composition consisting of 60% resin, 1% catalyst and 39% water. After the composition is sprayed on, the basis fabric is hand brushed until it is smooth and without hair, then is cured at 100° C. for 30 minutes. Thereafter, the basis fabric is then sprayed with a further composition consisting of 80% polyurethane (aqueous emulsion of copolymer), 5% resin, 1% catalyst and 14% water. If desired, a pigment could be applied to change the colour of the imitation leather. For instance, a black leather colour can be obtained by adding 20 g/0.1 L of black pigment. It is estimated that approximately 400 g of this composition may generally be required to be sprayed on to an amount of basis fabric required to form an average-sized jacket. After spraying, the basis fabric is brushed again and this process of spraying and brushing is repeated until the basis fabric surface becomes shiny. Thereafter, the basis fabric is cured at approximately 140° C. for 20 minutes.
After curing, the basis fabric is again rinsed and softened in a composition consisting of silicone oil (1 g/litre) in 60 litres of water at 30° C. for 10 minutes. The basis fabric is tumble dried at 70° C. for 30 minutes and then further tumbled dried at 30° C. for 30 minutes with plastic balls added to the tumble dryer so as to further enhance the imitation leather effect.
In one tested example, the first fabric layer of the basis fabric is formed by weaving together a first set of fibre elements (the warp of the first fabric layer) made from 100% cotton (16 Ne) with a second set of fibre elements (the weft of the first fabric layer) made from a combination of 100% cotton (16 Ne) and polyester core-spun elastic yarn (P150 D/70 D). The yarn density of the first set of fibre elements is 64 yarns per inch when the basis fabric is in greige fabric form and is adapted to have a yarn density of 93 yarns per inch after the finishing process is applied (that is, after being singed, rinsed, heat set and shrunk but not after the resin and polyurethane coating has been sprayed on). The yarn density of the second set of fibre elements is 110 yarns per inch when the basis fabric is in greige fabric form, and is adapted to have a yarn density of 116 yarns per inch when the basis fabric has undergone finishing. The construction chart for this exemplary basis fabric is represented in
The finishing applied to the basis fabric includes face-side singeing at a speed of 40 m/min, water rinsing at a speed of 20 m/min in normal water temperature, heat-setting at a speed of 20 m/min at a heat-set temperature of 160° C., and shrinking the basis fabric at a speed of 40 m/min.
Thereafter, the coating is applied in accordance with the steps outlined above.
Those skilled in the art will appreciate that the invention described herein is susceptible to variations and modifications other than those specifically described without departing from the scope of the invention. All such variations and modification which become apparent to persons skilled in the art, should be considered to fall within the spirit and scope of the invention as broadly hereinbefore described. It is to be understood that the invention includes all such variations and modifications. The invention also includes all of the steps and features, referred or indicated in the specification, individually or collectively, and any and all combinations of any two or more of said steps or features.
The reference to any prior art in this specification is not, and should not be taken as, an acknowledgment or any form of suggestion that that prior art forms part of the common general knowledge.
Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind | 371c Date |
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PCT/CN2012/000662 | 5/15/2012 | WO | 00 | 11/7/2014 |