Patent Application
20180368487
The present invention generally relates to trousers, and in particular, trousers with panel inserts.
Some of the greatest stress areas in a pair of trousers are in the crotch and the inseams extending down from the crotch.
According to an aspect of the present invention, a pair of trousers is formed with a continuous panel positioned in the crotch and inseam areas of the trousers, and which is sewn together with the other fabric of the trousers at locations distant from the crotch and traditional inseam locations. The width of the inseam panel insert is less in the crotch area and increases to a larger width at one or more points leading to and/or at the knee areas. In certain embodiments the inseam panel insert is a stretch material with a primary stretch direction extending on a bias to the longitudinal direction of the trouser legs.
The accompanying drawings, which are incorporated in and constitute a part of this specification illustrate one or more embodiments of the invention and, together with the description, serve to explain the principles of the invention.
A full and enabling disclosure of the present invention, including the best mode thereof directed to one of ordinary skill in the art, is set forth in the specification, which makes reference to the appended drawings, in which:
Repeat use of reference characters in the present specification and drawings is intended to represent same or analogous features or elements of the invention.
Reference will now be made in detail to certain embodiments of the invention, one or more examples of which are illustrated in the accompanying drawings. Each example is provided by way of explanation of the invention, not limitation of the invention. In fact, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that modifications and variations can be made in the present invention without departing from the scope or spirit thereof. Thus, it is intended that the present invention covers such modifications and variations as come within the scope of the appended claims and their equivalents.
Typically, pants (sometimes known as trousers) will have one left outseam, one right outseam, and one inseam, all of which are comprised of straight or relatively straight edges. Outseams run vertically upward both on right and left side from the bottom edge of each leg along their outside center toward the top of the pant. The inseam runs vertically upward from the bottom edge of right leg along its inside center toward the crotch and continues vertically downward from crotch along the inside center of left leg ending at the bottom left inside edge.
When pants are sewn, single layers of fabric of various sizes and shapes come together by joining, folding and stitching together forming seams. These seams are typically 3- to 4-ply thick and approximately ⅜ inches wide in most designs. Seams, therefore, are more rigid than single layers and stress applied along them produces less stretch, or “give”, than the surrounding single layer of fabric from which the seam was made.
Strain as the result of a stress is commonly referred to as elastic stretch when the stretch is reversible. However, if too much stress is applied, elasticity may be lost and yielding begins. At this point, any continued stretching is irreversible and becomes permanent, thus altering a fabric's dimensions and shape. When stress is applied to a pant, it can be demonstrated that seams will have a lower stretch coefficient than the surrounding fabric from which they were made, thus limiting overall elasticity of the pant, particularly along the seams. If a straight seam is made longer by increasing its length, the amount of corresponding elastic strain (i.e., available stretch) as force is applied along it, will be greater than when the seam is made shorter. Likewise, if a single straight seam is replaced by two straight seams of equal length then, as before, when stress is applied along the seams, both seams will stretch the same relative amount. If, on the other hand, a single straight seam is replaced by two seams, one being straight and the other seam having an undulating curvature, the curved seam will be longer in length than that of the straight seam. As a result, when stress is applied along the seams equally, the longer of the two seams—the one with the curvature—will exhibit less resistance to that stress, or more stretch than that of the shorter seam. This differential stretch occurs in the insert seam panel, whereupon the undulating curves on the rear edge of the insert seam panel add length to the rear edge of panel, which as a result, when force is applied longitudinally along the panel insert, the rear panel edge has greater potential for stretching than the front panel edge. This is a term is called “differential stretch” and is a result of the variable shape embodied in the rear edge of the insert panel.
The process used to make seams usually involves sewing two pieces of fabric together by first matching edges, then overlapping them and folding one edge over the other, and stitching both together. In the case of side and inseams, straight edges are generally involved, but in some seams like the front pocket, a curved seam is required. Generally speaking, curved seams require more operator finesse to maintain the two opposing edges feeding equally together through the sewing machine because the two edges must come together as a compound curve requiring constant pivoting of both pieces following their curved edge. The greater the amount of curve involved, the longer it takes to sew. By limiting the front edge of panel insert to a straight, relatively stable seam as in the present invention, an increase in sewing efficiency results.
The design of the inventive trousers having the particular inventive inseam panel insert uses differential seam shapes and lengths to direct and control the stretching in the inseam panel insert generally away from the uniform front edge toward the rear edge where they are both less visible and generally receive higher localized pressures, particularly in the seated position. By allowing the rear curved edge to stretch more than the front, and by allowing the forces at the rear curved edge to occur at differing angles, the overall deflection in the inseam panel insert can be controlled and directed more toward the rear, leaving the front edge more uniform in shape and the rear edge more adaptable to absorbing the localized forces encountered at the rear. The unique rise creep feature of the present invention affects crotch forces in a way heretofore unseen in other pants, including those of the gusseted or multiple inseam variety. The lateral width at the crotch in the present invention directs force away from the crotch with increasing divergence, both outward toward the knees and rearward. An area of “cross force” also exists both through and across the restricted crotch area which acts to improve leg articulation when engaging in high-movement activities such as kicking, lunging, or bending.
As shown in the front views of
As illustrated in the figures, trousers 10 are constructed with an inseam panel insert 500. The inseam panel insert 500 is a panel that progresses along the right inseam line 220, through the crotch 400, and along the left inseam line 320. The inseam panel insert 500 extends at least from crotch 400 and down to the right knee 230 and from crotch 400 and down to the left knee 330. Inseam panel insert 500 may also extend from crotch 400 and down to one or both of right cuff 210 or left cuff 310, or down to one or both of right leg bottom 205 or left leg bottom 305. Inseam panel insert 500 may also be continuous through crotch 400 as shown in
The inseam panel insert 500 may be connected within the trousers 10 by an inseam panel insert front seam 610 on the forward side of the trousers 10 and an inseam panel insert rear seam 620 on the rear side of the trousers 10 (as shown in
The inseam panel insert front seam 610 and the inseam panel insert rear seam 620 may each be disposed at a distance from the right inseam line 220 and the left inseam line 320, and over the crotch 400. In such a structure, there will be no actual seams located on the right inseam line 220 or the left inseam line 320 that could create rubbing or friction issues, as with ordinary construction trousers. Additionally, the movement of the front inseam panel insert seam 610 and the inseam panel insert rear seam 620 to a position above the crotch 400 creates a trouser where there are no seams joining at the crotch 400, thus reducing any weakness that could be created in the fabric next to the joining of the four seams. In contrast, in traditional trousers, the right inseam, left inseam, front seam and rear seam all join at the high stress area of crotch 400, allowing for weakening of the fabric next to the joining of the four seams.
Referring to
The lengths of the increased width portions 534 and 535 may vary for different trouser designs and may vary from each other within the same trousers 10, resulting in increased width portions 534 and 535 of different length within the same pair of trousers 10. In the embodiment shown in
Other embodiments of the present invention are shown in
Other embodiments of the present invention are shown in
In certain embodiments, inseam panel insert 500 may be formed of a stretch or elastic material. A stretch material used in combination with the shape of the inseam panel insert 500 having progressively increasing and progressively decreasing widths provides additional stretch to the trousers 10 in the areas with the most stress from a user, and less stretch in the areas where the user does not need or desire additional stretch.
Trousers of the present invention are particularly useful in the context of jeans and other athletic-type trousers that may be worn by those practicing the martial arts or yoga, where flexibility is particularly important. An objective of the invention may be to be similar in both appearance and feel to that of a typical jean-type pant, but with enhanced flexibility, seating comfort and long term dimensional stability through the crotch area of the trousers.
The invention allows the relief of an amount of stress and discomfort to the wearer particularly when in the seated position. The differential geometry of inseam panel insert 500 with its variable curved shape corresponds generally to the wearer's anatomy. The differential shaping of inseam panel insert 500 as described hereinabove is unique and uncharacteristic of other dual inseam or gusseted designs and results in a distinct loss of insert panel symmetry, such that while left and right inseam panel insert symmetry exists across the lateral axis, front and rear symmetry is lost across the longitudinal axis. In addition, the lengths of the front inside panel edge and the rear inside panel edge are no longer equal, such that the rear undulating curved panel edge is longer. In addition, because the front panel edge is straight and the rear panel edge is curved, the rear panel edge must be longer in length measured longitudinally from left to right.
As shown graphically in
As described hereinabove, the inner panel geometry design is expected to alleviate stress in the seated position. By having a straight front panel edge, the forward portion of inseam panel insert 500 will have less tendency to move rearward than the rear portion of inseam panel insert 500, which has the undulating curvature. The curvature creates multiple directions for the forces to disperse, as in stretching askew the seam, increasing longitudinal edge length of the rear seam as well, with both providing greater force distribution relative to the shorter and straighter front edge. These two factors, coupled with any elasticity of the inseam panel insert 500 itself, contribute to the way the panel conforms to the body. This unique conformity can enhance seating comfort in a way that alleviates binding in the crotch or tugging at the hips.
Another characteristic of using the inventive trousers 10 having the described inseam panel insert 500 is the relative reduction of a problem known as “Rise Creep.” Rise Creep is known in the industry as the tendency for the rise of a pant (i.e., the total rise from front to rear) to grow longer over time. This undesirable phenomenon arises due to the excess forces beyond the elastic range that are applied along the direction of the front and rear seat seam when the pants are in use. Such conditions are terms “front rise” and “rear rise” and, together, constitute the “total rise.” These rises follow a path running from the center of the front waist downward around the crotch and upward again to the center of rear waist.
Known current gussets, as well as other known multiple inseam designs, breech the rise area generally at the crotchpoint to insert either a single occluded triangular piece of material, or a generally parallel or continuous longitudinally symmetric piece of material. The present invention differs from these other designs by having the center area of the longitudinal axis of the trousers found at the crotch noticeably narrower than the surrounding widths as the inseam panel insert continues down the legs of the trousers.
Although lateral width restriction may occurs at the crotch, longitudinal stretch restriction is not affected to the same degree is in other designs. The present invention allows “cross stretch” acting diagonally from one leg to the other, and acting through and about a point with a relatively stabilized center point at the crotch, laterally being stabilized dimensionally via the narrowing feature. As such, ample longitudinal stretch with minimal lateral strain variation or “rise creep” in the crotch is noticed.
In another embodiment, the inseam panel insert 500 may be formed of a directional stretch or elastic material. The directional stretch or elastic material has a primary stretch direction which is preferably located on a bias to the longitudinal direction of the inseam panel insert 500 in the trousers 10. During formation of the trousers 10 with the inseam panel insert 500, the sewing of the continuous front inseam panel insert seam 610 and inseam panel insert rear seam 620 can cause the inseam panel insert 500 to stretch in longitudinal length. This longitudinal stretch of the inseam panel insert 500 during formation of the trousers 10 is undesirable as it creates areas of the inseam panel insert 500 with prestretch conditions different in different areas of the trousers 10, and a mismatch of the inseam panel insert 500 length to the legs of the trousers 10. The use of directional stretch or elastic material on a bias has the advantage of inhibiting the longitudinal stretch of the inseam panel insert 500. A preferred bias of the directional stretch in the inseam panel insert 500 is from about thirty degrees (30°) to about sixty degrees (60°) from the longitudinal direction of the inseam panel insert 500, or from about one-hundred twenty degrees (120°) to about one-hundred degrees (150°) from the longitudinal direction of the inseam panel insert 500.
In one preferred embodiment, the trousers 10 are jeans made of denim, and the inseam panel insert 500 is a directional stretch denim with the stretch direction being located forty-five degrees (45°) from the longitudinal direction of the inseam panel insert 500, and the width of the inseam panel insert 500 at the crotch location 540 may be from about fifty percent (50%) to about one-hundred percent (100%) more narrow than the width of the inseam panel insert 500 at the right knee location 532 or left knee location 533.
These and other modifications and variations to the present invention may be practiced by those of ordinary skill in the art, without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention, which is more particularly set forth in the appended claims. In addition, it should be understood that aspects of the various embodiments may be interchanged in whole or in part. Furthermore, those of ordinary skill in the art will appreciate that the foregoing description is by way of example only, and is not intended to limit the invention so further described in such appended claims. Therefore, the spirit and scope of the appended claims should not be limited to the description of the versions contained therein.
