The present invention, in some embodiments thereof, relates to an invisible setting for gemstones and, more particularly, but not exclusively, to an invisible setting for diamonds.
Faceted diamonds and other faceted gemstones are frequently mounted in various ways to produce different optical impressions and different optical effects. For example, one popular type of mounting includes an invisible setting, namely a setting which does not obstruct the view of the diamond from the outer face of the jewelry.
One typical invisible setting in use today is described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,123,265 to Ramot, where ribs or the like received in grooves or notches formed in the pavilion of each gemstone so as to mount the gemstone with the crown facing outwardly, with the pavilion facing inwardly, and with the holding elements concealed by the girdle. This setting does not obstruct the view of the crowns of the gemstones.
A second known invisible setting is described in US Publication No. 2008/0209943 to Mattar, where holding elements are received in grooves or notches that are formed in the crown of each gemstone and the gemstones are mounted with the pavilion facing outwardly and the crown facing inwardly. This setting does not obstruct the view of the pavilions of the gemstones.
An aspect of the present invention refers to a setting for gemstones where a portion of the setting that touches the gemstone does not obstruct the pavilion and crown of the gemstone.
According to an aspect of some embodiments of the present invention there is provided a gemstone comprising:
a girdle in which at least one groove or notch is formed;
a faceted pavilion on one side of the girdle; and
a crown on a second side of the girdle.
According to a first embodiment, the at least one groove or notch is formed in the entire height of the girdle.
According to a second embodiment, the at least one groove or notch has a V-shape.
According to an aspect of some embodiments of the present invention there is provided an article of jewelry comprising:
a plurality of faceted gemstones, each gemstone comprising a crown, a girdle and a pavilion;
at least one setting element that secures the plurality of gemstones,
wherein the crown and the pavilion of at least one of the plurality of gemstones is not obstructed by said at least one setting element.
According to a third embodiment, at least one groove or notch is provided in the girdle of said plurality of gemstones.
According to a fourth embodiment, the at least one setting element is provided in the at least one groove or notch thereby connecting the gemstones to each other.
According to a fifth embodiment, the crown and the pavilion of at least one of the plurality of gemstones is not obstructed by any portion of setting elements securing the gemstone.
According to a sixth embodiment, the crown and the pavilion of the plurality of gemstones is not obstructed by any portion of setting elements securing the gemstones.
According to a seventh embodiment, the crown or the pavilion of at least one of the plurality of gemstones is obstructed by a portion of the setting elements.
According to an eighth embodiment, the plurality of gemstones form a row.
According to a ninth embodiment, the plurality of gemstones form a plurality of rows.
According to a tenth embodiment, crown of at least one gemstone of the plurality of gemstones is positioned next to a pavilion of at least one other gemstone of the plurality of gemstones, without any substantial space between them.
According to an eleventh embodiment, the at least one setting element comprises an elongate element.
According to a twelfth embodiment, the at least one setting element comprises an elongate element having one or more elongate elements crossing the elongate element.
According to a thirteenth embodiment, the at least one setting element is a plate with holes mating with the grooves of notches in the gemstones.
According to a fourteenth embodiment, the at least one setting element is a linear element.
According to a fifteenth embodiment, the at least one setting element is bent or curved.
According to a sixteenth embodiment, the cross section of the at least one setting element is formed as a rhombus.
According to a seventeenth embodiment, the cross section of the at least one setting element is formed as a rectangle or ellipse.
According to some embodiments of the invention, the aspects of the invention defined above may be utilized with any combination of the first, second, third and fourth, fifth, sixth, seventh, eighth, ninth, tenth, eleventh, twelfth, thirteenth, fourteenth, fifteenth, sixteenth and seventeenth embodiments.
Unless otherwise defined, all technical and/or scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which the invention pertains. Although methods and materials similar or equivalent to those described herein can be used in the practice or testing of embodiments of the invention, exemplary methods and/or materials are described below. In case of conflict, the patent specification, including definitions, will control. In addition, the materials, methods, and examples are illustrative only and are not intended to be necessarily limiting.
Some embodiments of the invention are herein described, by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying drawings. With specific reference now to the drawings in detail, it is stressed that the particulars shown are by way of example and for purposes of illustrative discussion of embodiments of the invention. In this regard, the description taken with the drawings makes apparent to those skilled in the art how embodiments of the invention may be practiced.
In the drawings:
The present invention, in some embodiments thereof, relates to an invisible setting for gemstones.
An aspect of some embodiments of the invention refers to a setting for gemstones where that portion of the setting that secures the gemstones does not obstruct the view of either the crown or of the pavilion of the gemstones. Preferably, the portion of the setting that touches the gemstone does not obstruct view of either the crown or of the pavilion of the gemstone.
In some embodiments of the invention, there is provided a setting for a plurality of gemstones, in which the portion of the setting that secures the gemstones and is situated between the gemstones does not obstruct the view of either the pavilion or the crown of the gemstones. Optionally, the portion of the setting that surrounds the set of gemstones may obstruct part of the view of the crown and/or pavilion of some of the gemstones. All of these types of settings are referred to herein as a double sided invisible setting.
In some embodiments, the double sided invisible setting may be visible from the periphery of the stones, but is invisible from both the side facing the crown of the gemstones and from the side facing the pavilion of the gemstones. Preferably, the entire crown and the entire pavilion are not obstructed by the setting. Optionally, the setting is invisible at all or most angles to these directions. Alternatively or additionally, the gemstones are not obstructed by the portion of the setting contacting the stones but may be obstructed by other portions of the setting, for example in a ring where the view facing the finger is obstructed, by the portion contacting the finger.
An aspect of some embodiments of the invention refers to a gemstone having notches or grooves in the girdle of the gemstone. In some embodiments, the grooves or notches are formed on one, two or more facets of the girdle. In other embodiments, the grooves or notches are formed around the entire girdle of the gemstones. In some embodiments, the gemstones have grooves only in the girdle of the gemstones and do not have grooves in any other portion of the gemstones such as crown or pavilion. In some embodiments of the invention, the grooves or notches are formed along the entire side or sides of the girdle. In others the notches are formed over only a portion of the girdle and are suitable for receiving mounting holding elements such as prongs.
In some polished gemstones, the girdle is relatively thin. In some embodiments of the invention, the portion of the girdle where the grooves are made is polished so as to thicken the girdle and enable deeper or wider grooves to be made in the polished girdle.
According to some embodiments of the invention, there is provided a double sided invisible setting for one or more gemstones where one or more setting elements are received into notches or grooves in the girdle of the gemstones. The one or more setting elements may be prongs, elongate elements, a plate with holes mating the geometry of the cut of the gemstones, bezels or other setting elements known in the art. Preferably, at least one gemstone is held solely by holding elements inserted in the grooves or notches.
Since the girdle is the widest part of the gemstone, if the portions of the setting elements that touch the gemstones are completely within (or substantially within) the extent of the girdle, the described settings provide double sided invisible settings.
Optionally, a plurality of set gemstones forms a single line of gemstones. Alternatively, the plurality of set gemstones forms a plurality of lines of gemstones. In some embodiments, the plurality of lines forms one of various shapes, for example a rectangle, circle, flower or religious sign.
In some embodiments of the invention, the gemstones are mounted facing the same face up, i.e. all pavilions facing the same face of the setting. According to other embodiments, at least some of the gemstones are facing opposite to other gemstones, for example the pavilion of a first gemstone may be positioned next to the crown of a second gemstone. In some embodiments an array of gemstones is provided with all of the nearest neighbors of some or all the gemstones being reversed from a gemstone at the center of the grouping. For example, a pattern of crown and pavilion may form a checkerboard pattern.
In some embodiments of the invention, the plurality of gemstones is set on a single plane. In other embodiments, the plurality of gemstones is set at different planes in order to create a three dimensional shape of setting such as a wave or cylinder. Optionally, the elongate elements received in grooves of the gemstones are bent or curved or are curved after the stones are inserted into the setting.
According to some embodiments of the invention, for example, when the gemstones are rectangular cut, there is provided a double sided invisible setting for a plurality of gemstones where an elongate element is received into grooves in the girdle of the gemstones. In accordance with some embodiments, adjacent portions of an elongate element are inserted into grooves of stones that are arrayed in a first direction. Optionally, the other side of the elongate element is inserted into grooves in stones situated beside the above mentioned arrayed stones.
In some embodiments of the inventions, the gemstones are mounted close to each other such that adjacent lengths of the elongate elements are completely received in the grooves of the gemstones. Optionally, girdles of neighboring gemstones contact each other.
Optionally, the elongate elements are arranged in a matrix of perpendicular and parallel elongate members where the stones fit into interstices between the elongate members.
While in some embodiments of the invention, all sides of at least some of stones are mounted in a setting that is inserted into notches or groves in the girdle of the stone, in others the edges of the stones along the periphery of an array of stones may be held in other settings, for example, to increase the strength of the array.
As used herein, the term “elongate elements” includes linear elements or bent elements. As used herein, the term “elongate members” includes elongate elements that are crossed by other elongate elements at various points along their length.
In some embodiments of the invention, for example when the gemstones are round cut, there is provided a double sided invisible settings for gemstones where the setting element comprises a plate with holes mating the geometry of the gemstones, for example round holes. The gemstones are inserted into the holes in the plate such that grooves in the girdle of the gemstone will be surrounded by the plate. In some embodiments, the holes are shaped to provide holding elements that can fit into small notches in the girdle of the stone. This setting does not obstruct the view of the crown and pavilion of the gemstone.
According to some embodiments of the invention, the gemstones are diamonds.
Preferably, the gemstones are faceted. The gemstones may be cut by any cut known in the art, such as princess or square cut, round cut, baguette cut, emerald cut, heart shaped, triangular cut, marquise cut, pear cut, Ascher cut, etc.
The double sided invisible settings described are adapted to be used in any article of jewelry, such as rings, bracelets, pendants, necklaces, earrings, watches and the like.
Before explaining at least one embodiment of the invention in detail, it is to be understood that the invention is not necessarily limited in its application to the details of construction and the arrangement of the components and/or methods set forth in the following description and/or illustrated in the drawings. The invention is capable of other embodiments or of being practiced or carried out in various ways.
While the drawings illustrate specific cuttings of gemstones, all embodiments of the present invention may be used with any cut of gemstones. In addition, some embodiments may combine gemstones of different cuts in the same setting.
It should be understood that while the illustrated gemstones are diamonds other faceted stones are also within the scope of the invention.
Referring now to the drawings,
Gemstones 100 are illustrated having a crown 120, a girdle 130 and a pavilion 140. Grooves or notches 110 are formed in girdle 130 of the gemstones. Depending on the cutting and weight of gemstones 100, grooves 110 may be formed only in part of the height of girdle 130 as shown in
In some embodiments, for example where the stones are to be mounted in only a single line, grooves 110 may be formed only on opposite sides of the girdle as shown in
In some embodiments, grooves 110 are formed having a V-shape. Other shapes may be used in accordance with other embodiments of the invention, for example round, square or rectangle shaped grooves.
In some embodiments, the depth and thickness of grooves 110 depends on the height, size and cutting of the gemstone. Grooves 110 are preferably as small as possible, consistent with providing a required level of strength, in order to block less light reflected from the gemstone. Since the gemstone is adapted to be set by a setting received in grooves in the girdle which is the widest part of the gemstones, relative small grooves may be used.
For example, for a princess cut gemstone 2.5 mm×2.5 mm in extent, grooves in the girdle of about 0.25-0.3 mm deep and about 0.3-0.4 mm high can be made. For round cut diamonds 2.3 mm in diameter, grooves in the girdle of about 0.25-0.3 mm deep and about 0.3-0.4 mm high can be made. Smaller dimension of grooves are also possible. The larger the extent of the gemstones, the deeper and/or higher the grooves in the girdle can be made without negative visual effect.
Gemstone 250 is shown set in a necklace 270. The illustrated setting does not obstruct the view of either the crown or the pavilion of gemstone 250. Accordingly, necklace 270 is adapted to be worn at either side, e.g. with the crown facing outwards of the setting and with the pavilion facing outwards of the setting.
Although a square cut stone 250 is shown, the same setting may be used with other cutting, wherein the elongate elements may be replaced by other elements mating the geometry of the cut of the stone.
Reference will now be made to double side invisible settings for a plurality of gemstones according to various embodiments of the invention.
An array of three rows each comprising three gemstones is shown. Substantially any number of rows may be used in accordance with different embodiments of the invention. In addition, the rows in the setting can be of different lengths. According to some embodiments, the plurality of rows may form different shapes such as circles, flowers, religious signs, rectangles, etc.
The gemstones are held by elongate elements received in grooves in the girdles of adjoining gemstones. In accordance with some embodiments, a first side of an elongate element is inserted into grooves of gemstones arrayed in a first direction and a second side of the elongate element is inserted into grooves of gemstone arrayed beside these gemstones.
For example, a first side of elongate element 350 is received in grooves in the girdle of stones 317, 318 and 319 and a second side of elongate element 350 is received in grooves in the girdle of stones 314, 315 and 316. Similarly, a first side of elongate element 352 is received in grooves in the girdle of gemstones 314, 315 and 316 and a second side of elongate element 352 is received in grooves in the girdle of gemstones 311, 312 and 313. Elongate elements 354 and 356 are optionally also provided for attaching the gemstones in the other direction.
The grooves in the girdles of gemstones 312, 315 and 318 into which elongate elements 350 and 352 are received are visible in the cross-section shown in
In some embodiments of the inventions, as shown in
In some embodiments of the invention, the elongate elements are received in grooves which are formed in the entire height of the girdle of the stone. In other embodiments, the elongate elements are received in grooves which are formed in only part of the girdle of the gemstones.
The settings shown in
In other embodiments, as shown in
When the setting is meant to be used for double sided jewelry, i.e. articles of jewelry that can be viewed from either side, the frame is preferably received in grooves which are formed in the girdle of the gemstones which is the widest part of the stones. However, when the setting is meant to be used with only one side facing outward the setting, grooves in the pavilion or crown of the outer stones can be used, in order to allow the gemstones to stick out of the setting as much as possible. In some embodiments, at least one side of at least some gemstones in the setting has either the crown or the pavilion unobstructed by the setting.
An optional loop 375 for using the setting as a pendant or pendant earring is shown in
In some embodiments of the invention, the gemstones in each row are connected using a double sided invisible setting and the rows are connected using other means known in the art. For example, elongate elements 350 and 352 may be provide an invisible setting while elongate elements 354 and/or 356 can be replaced by other setting means known in the art such as visible prongs or lines of metal. The visible setting may in some embodiments be part of the design of the setting.
Pavilions of the gemstones may be blunted as shown in
While
As shown in the cross-section in
In some embodiments, the entire circumference of the holes is received in grooves surrounding the entire girdle of the gemstones. In other embodiments, as shown in
In some embodiments of the invention, plate 420 has a thickness which is similar to the cross-section of the grooves in the girdle of the gemstones. Alternatively, plate 420 is thicker than the cross-section of the gemstones and only the portions of plate which are received in the grooves mate with the grooves.
Plate 420 may be linear or may be bent or curved to provide a multi-plane setting such as a cylinder. Optionally, the holes in plate 420 may form any shape such as rectangles, flowers, hearts, circles, religious signs, etc. For example, the stones may be set in a circle surrounding a watch face.
Plate 420 may include at least one loop for hanging as a pendant or earring or can be used with any other article of jewelry such as a ring.
The inventor of the present application has found that mounting gemstones with the pavilion facing outwards of the setting provides more brilliance, fire and sparkle to the setting. Accordingly, setting a less brilliant and/or clear gemstone with the pavilion facing outwards may provide the same or more brilliance than more brilliant and clear gemstones used in settings where the crown of the gemstones is facing outwards from the setting. In addition, setting a gemstone with the pavilion facing out provides a greater percentage of the gemstone's surface area visible in the setting. For example, setting the gemstone with the pavilion facing outwards the setting provides 68% of the gemstone's area to be visible, as opposed to only 32% when the gemstone is set with the crown facing outwards the setting.
In some embodiments of the invention, when a double sided invisible setting according to anyone of the embodiments described above, only between about 5%-10% of the gemstone's area is obstructed, thereby providing about 90%-95% of the gemstone's area to be visible.
As used herein the term “about” refers to ±10%
The terms “comprises”, “comprising”, “includes”, “including”, “having” and their conjugates mean “including but not limited to”.
The term “consisting of means “including and limited to”.
As used herein, the singular form “a”, “an” and “the” include plural references unless the context clearly dictates otherwise. For example, the term “a compound” or “at least one compound” may include a plurality of compounds, including mixtures thereof.
Throughout this application, various embodiments of this invention may be presented in a range format. It should be understood that the description in range format is merely for convenience and brevity and should not be construed as an inflexible limitation on the scope of the invention. Accordingly, the description of a range should be considered to have specifically disclosed all the possible subranges as well as individual numerical values within that range. For example, description of a range such as from 1 to 6 should be considered to have specifically disclosed subranges such as from 1 to 3, from 1 to 4, from 1 to 5, from 2 to 4, from 2 to 6, from 3 to 6 etc., as well as individual numbers within that range, for example, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6. This applies regardless of the breadth of the range.
Whenever a numerical range is indicated herein, it is meant to include any cited numeral (fractional or integral) within the indicated range. The phrases “ranging/ranges between” a first indicate number and a second indicate number and “ranging/ranges from” a first indicate number “to” a second indicate number are used herein interchangeably and are meant to include the first and second indicated numbers and all the fractional and integral numerals therebetween.
It is appreciated that certain features of the invention, which are, for clarity, described in the context of separate embodiments, may also be provided in combination in a single embodiment. Conversely, various features of the invention, which are, for brevity, described in the context of a single embodiment, may also be provided separately or in any suitable subcombination or as suitable in any other described embodiment of the invention. For example, the shapes shown in
Although the invention has been described in conjunction with specific embodiments thereof, it is evident that many alternatives, modifications and variations will be apparent to those skilled in the art. Accordingly, it is intended to embrace all such alternatives, modifications and variations that fall within the spirit and broad scope of the appended claims.
All publications, patents and patent applications mentioned in this specification are herein incorporated in their entirety by reference into the specification, to the same extent as if each individual publication, patent or patent application was specifically and individually indicated to be incorporated herein by reference. In addition, citation or identification of any reference in this application shall not be construed as an admission that such reference is available as prior art to the present invention. To the extent that section headings are used, they should not be construed as necessarily limiting.