A jersey or shirt 10 is assembled from a plurality of fabric panels or sections 12 attached to one another to form a tubular torso 14 and a pair of tubular sleeves 16 and 18. Torso 14 has a neck opening 20 at one end defined by a collar 21 and a waist opening 22 at an opposite end defined by a waist band 23, while sleeves 16 and 18 have free ends provided with respective arm openings 24 and 26. Fabric panels or sections 12 include a first lower back panel 28, a second lower back panel 30, at least one chest panel 32 (
Torso 14 has a longitudinal axis 38 extending from neck opening 20 or collar 21 to waist opening 22 along a back side of torso 14. Shoulder panels 34 and 36 are connected on the back side of torso 14 to lower back panel 28 along a substantially horizontal seam 40 oriented substantially transversely to longitudinal axis 38. Shoulder panels 34 and 36 are joined to one another on the back side of torso 14 along a vertical seam 42 substantially coincident with longitudinal axis 38. Vertical seam 42 is preferably contiguous at a lower end with horizontal seam 40. Each shoulder panel 34 and 36 extends from vertical seam 42 across half of torso 14 and over a shoulder portion 46 and 48 of a respective one of the sleeves 16 and 18. Shoulder panels 34 and 36 are connected along an anterior side of torso 14 (
Shoulder panels 34 and 36 are connected to chest 32 panel along substantially horizontal first and second anterior seam segments 50 and 52. Segments 50 and 52 are located just below clavicle areas (not separately designated) of torso 14. Horizontal seam 40 is located below the region of the scapulas (not designated).
Fabric panels or sections 12 further include two first lateral torso panels 54 and 56 each connected along an arcuate seam 58 and 60 to a respective shoulder panel 34 and 36 along the back side of torso 14 (
Each lower back panel 28 and 30 is a unitary or continuous panel extending across the back side of torso 14 from one secondary lateral panel 62 to the other 64. Similarly, chest panel 32 is a unitary panel extending across the anterior side of the torso from one sleeve 16 to the opposite sleeve 18.
Fabric panels or sections 12 further include sleeve end panels 66 and 68 connected along seams 70 and 72 to edges of shoulder panels 34 and 36 at free ends of sleeves 16 and 18.
Shoulder panels 34 and 36 are made of a knitted fabric cut on the bias or axis. Panels 34 and 36 are cut and sewn into the jersey 10 so that they have a maximum degree of stretchability in a direction 74 and 76 extending from vertical seam 42 over the respective shoulder portions 46 and 48, along the back side of the torso, at angles A1 and A2 oriented at approximately 45 degrees relative to vertical seam 42. Shoulder panels 34 and 36 are each a single or seamless fabric section extending from vertical seam 42 and horizontal seam 40 over shoulder portions 46 and 48 and to the chest panel.
A method for making jersey or shirt 10 includes cutting fabric panels or sections 12, attaching the fabric panels or sections to one another to form torso 14 and sleeves 16 and 18 so that the torso has neck opening 20 at one end and waist opening 22 at an opposite end and so that sleeves 16 and 18 have arm openings 24 and 26. The attaching of fabric panels or sections 12 to each other includes connecting shoulder panels 34 and 36 to back panel 28 along horizontal seam 40 and joining the shoulder panels to one another along vertical seam 42. The attaching of fabric panels or sections 12 to one another also includes arranging shoulder panels 34 and 36 so that each extends across half of all upper portion of the back side of torso 14 and over a respective shoulder portion 46 and 48 and connecting the shoulder panels to chest panel 32 along seam segments 50 and 52.
Shoulder panels 34 and 36 are made of a knitted fabric material, and the cutting of the fabric panels or sections 12 includes cutting the shoulder panels on the bias. Shoulder panels 34 and 36 are cut and attached so as to have a maximum degree of stretchability in directions 74 and 76. Shoulder panels 34 and 36 are each cut as a single or seamless fabric section and attached to other fabric panels or sections to extend from vertical seam 42 and horizontal seam 40 over shoulder portions 46 and 48 to the chest panel 32.
The attaching of fabric panels or sections 12 to one another further includes connecting shoulder panels 34 and 36 to chest panel 32 along seam segments 50 and 52 and joining lateral torso panels 54 and 56 along seams 58 and 60 to shoulder panels 34 and 36, respectively.
Attaching of the various fabric panels or sections 12 to each other is accomplished through needle work or stitching. Any suitable stitching can be used. One such stitching is a modified 2-needle over-lock stitch that is a variation of a standard 3-thread operation, but uses only 1 needle thread and a bottom looper thread. In this modified stitch, the upper looper is replaced with a special “hook” looper (looks a bit like a thick, bent seam ripper) and receives no thread; the needle tension is loosened almost completely and the looper thread tension stays as per normal setting. The width of the overlock finger on the plate combined with the needle tension is what determines the finished width of the seamlink. A smaller finger will always produce a smaller finished seam, while a standard finger will produce the desired seam width, both are adjustable to a degree by the needle thread tension. The tighter the tension is, the narrower the finished width will be and the bulkier the underside of the seam will be. When the needle tension is almost nill, the result is a flattest, widest finish. The density of the stitch depends on the stitch length and needs to be experimented with on each fabric to determine an appropriate density.
This modified 2-needle over-lock stitch requires a 2 step process, namely, (1) the sewing operation as described above, and (2) pulling the stitch perpendicular to the seam direction manually and before any congruent seams are constructed.
As illustrated in
Although the invention has been described in terms of particular embodiments and applications, one of ordinary skill in the art, in light of this teaching, can generate additional embodiments and modifications without departing from the spirit of or exceeding the scope of the claimed invention. Accordingly, it is to be understood that the drawings and descriptions herein are proffered by way of example to facilitate comprehension of the invention and should not be construed to limit the scope thereof.
This application claims the benefit of U.S. Provisional Patent Application No. 60/816,141 filed Jun. 23, 2006.
Number | Date | Country | |
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60816141 | Jun 2006 | US |