The present disclosure relates generally to kits for applying cosmetic compositions to keratinous material, in particular to (1) applicators comprising a brush comprising a core having an outer surface and a longitudinal axis; a plurality of bristles protruding from the core and spaced apart along the longitudinal axis; and a high density zone that covers at least a portion of the outer surface of the core, the high density zone having a surface bristle density of up to 7 bristles per square millimeter of area of the outer surface of the core, and wherein the bristles have a length from about 0.6 mm to about 4 mm and (2) cosmetic compositions for application to hair, eyebrows and/or eyelashes having a viscosity of less than about 250 Pa·S when measured at a shear rate at 5 s−1.
Mascara compositions are commonly used to enhance the appearance of eyelashes. Conventional mascara compositions generally use waxes to form crystalline network structures to enhance curl, volume, length, thickness, and/or colors to eyelashes. However, mascara compositions that derive their performance primarily from waxes tend to become less resistant to oil and/or sebum, causing smearing, flaking, and/or color transferring after wearing for a certain amount of time. Furthermore, while conventional wax-based mascara can be used to assist in moderate curl formation eyelashes, users of mascara typically are forced to rely on particular applicators or eye-lash curling devices to enhance curl to any substantial degree.
WO 2010014328 describes the use of polystyrene sulfonate as a contractile polymer to apply to eyelashes.
WO2017044546 describes a film forming composition comprises a first non-crosslinking polyamide/polyacrylate copolymer and a second non-crosslinking polyamide copolymer comprising at least one amide; at least one quaternary ammonium containing monomer; and monomers having at least one amine functional group.
There remains a need for improved cosmetic compositions for application to keratinous materials such as mascaras having improved application properties, as well as ways in which to apply those compositions to provide maximum benefit.
Accordingly, one aspect of the present invention is a makeup kit for keratinous material which includes a cosmetic composition having good cosmetic properties such as, for example, curling properties, where the kit includes an applicator which allows easy application of the cosmetic composition having good cosmetic properties to keratinous material.
The present invention relates to a kit for applying a cosmetic composition to hair, eyebrows and/or eyelashes comprising a cosmetic applicator and a cosmetic composition. The cosmetic applicator comprises a brush comprising a core having an outer surface and a longitudinal axis; a plurality of bristles protruding from the core and spaced apart along the longitudinal axis; and a high density zone that covers at least a portion of the outer surface of the core, the high density zone having a surface bristle density of up to 7 bristles per square millimeter of area of the outer surface of the core, and wherein the bristles have a length from about 0.6 mm to about 4 mm. The cosmetic composition has a viscosity of less than about 250 Pa·S when measured at a shear rate at 5 s−1. Preferably, the cosmetic composition is a mascara.
The foregoing paragraphs have been provided by way of general introduction, and are not intended to limit the scope of the following claims. The described embodiments, together with further advantages, will be best understood by reference to the following detailed description taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings.
The accompanying drawings, which are incorporated in and constitute a part of the specification, illustrate one or more embodiments and, together with the description, explain these embodiments. The accompanying drawings have not necessarily been drawn to scale. Any values dimensions illustrated in the accompanying graphs and figures are for illustration purposes only and may or may not represent actual or preferred values or dimensions. Where applicable, some or all features may not be illustrated to assist in the description of underlying features. In the drawings:
In the following description of the invention and the claims appended hereto, it is to be understood that the terms used have their ordinary and accustomed meanings in the art, unless otherwise specified.
“About” as used herein means within 5% of the indicated number (e.g. “about 10%” means 9.5%-10.5% and “about 2%” means 1.9%-2.1%).
“A” or “an” as used herein means “at least one.”
As used herein, all ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of subranges between, the given ranges. Thus, a range from 1-5, includes specifically 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as subranges such as and 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc.
“Film former”, “film-forming polymer” or “film forming agent” or “co-film former” as used herein means a polymer or resin that leaves a film on the substrate to which it is applied, for example, after a solvent accompanying the film former has evaporated, absorbed into and/or dissipated on the substrate. For example, to evaluate whether a compound is a film former or film forming agent, a drawdown test may be performed by putting 5 to 10 grams of material on the center of a Leneta card stock (Black and White Opacity card Chart 2812 available from BYK Additives and Instruments of Geretsried, Germany) and using a 3 mil Drawdown Birdbar (also from Byk), spreading the material for across the sheet (8 in by 3 in) and allowing it to dry overnight. If the material forms a conformal coating and/or can picked up or scraped off with a razorblade to be removed as a free standing film, then it is film forming. Regardless, if it does not coat the card, cannot in any reasonable way be removed as a free-standing film and/or forms a loose powdery coating that rubs off readily onto one's finger, then it is not a film former.
“Wax” as used herein is a lipophilic fatty compound that is solid at ambient temperature (25° C.) and changes from the solid to the liquid state reversibly, having a melting temperature of more than 30° C. and, for example, more than 45° C., which can be as high as 150° C., a hardness of more than 0.5 MPa at ambient temperature, and an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state.
“Free of” or “devoid of” as used herein in connection with a particular element or ingredient means that the composition does not contain any of the element or ingredient. Thus, for example, “free of oils” or “devoid of oils” means that oils are omitted from the composition (that is, 0% by weight of the composition). “Essentially free of” or “Essentially devoid of” means that the composition can contain up to 0.2% by weight of the composition of the identified element or ingredient (for example, oils). “Substantially free of” or “Substantially devoid of” means that the composition can contain up to 0.33% by weight of the composition of the identified element or ingredient (for example, oils).
“Makeup Result” as used herein, refers to compositions where color remains the same or substantially the same as at the time of application, as viewed by the naked eye, after an extended period of time. “Makeup Result” may be evaluated by evaluating long wear properties by any method known in the art for evaluating such properties. For example, long wear may be evaluated by a test involving the application of a composition to keratin materials such as eyelashes and evaluating the color of the composition after an extended period of time. For example, the color of a composition may be evaluated immediately following application to keratin materials such as eyelashes and these characteristics may then be re-evaluated and compared after a certain amount of time. Further, these characteristics may be evaluated with respect to other compositions, such as commercially available compositions.
“Making up” as used herein means to provide decoration (for example, color) to keratin materials such as the eyelashes.
“Protecting” as used herein means to inhibit damage to keratin materials such as the eyelashes by providing a protective layer on the keratin materials.
“Substituted” as used herein, means comprising at least one substituent. Non-limiting examples of substituents for substitution include atoms, such as oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, such as hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulphonate groups, thiosulphate groups, siloxane groups, and polysiloxane groups. The substituent(s) may be further substituted.
“Water resistance” as used herein, means resistance of a material (substance) to the penetration of water, which may cause degradation of that material. The method implemented if assessment of this invention is further disclosed.
“Transfer resistance” as used herein refers to the quality exhibited by compositions that are not readily removed by contact with another material, such as, for example, a glass, an item of clothing or the skin, for example, when eating or drinking. Transfer resistance may be evaluated by any method known in the art for evaluating such. For example, transfer resistance of a composition may be evaluated by a “kiss” test. The “kiss” test may involve application of the composition to human keratin material such as hair, skin or lips followed by rubbing a material, for example, a sheet of paper, against the hair, skin or lips after expiration of a certain amount of time following application, such as 2 minutes after application. Similarly, transfer resistance of a composition may be evaluated by the amount of product transferred from a wearer to any other substrate, such as transfer from the hair, skin or lips of an individual to a collar when putting on clothing after the expiration of a certain amount of time following application of the composition to the hair, skin or lips. The amount of composition transferred to the substrate (e.g., collar, or paper) may then be evaluated and compared. For example, a composition may be transfer resistant if a majority of the product is left on the wearer's hair, skin or lips. Further, the amount transferred may be compared with that transferred by other compositions, such as commercially available compositions. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, little or no composition is transferred to the substrate from the hair, skin or lips.
The compositions and methods of the present invention can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the invention described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful.
Referred to herein are trade names for materials including, but not limited to polymers and optional components. The inventors herein do not intend to be limited by materials described and referenced by a certain trade name. Equivalent materials (e.g., those obtained from a different source under a different name or catalog (reference) number) to those referenced by trade name may be substituted and utilized in the methods described and claimed herein.
All percentages and ratios are calculated by weight unless otherwise indicated. All percentages are calculated based on the total weight of a composition unless otherwise indicated. All component or composition levels are in reference to the active level of that component or composition, and are exclusive of impurities, for example, residual solvents or by-products, which may be present in commercially available sources.
The following disclosure is to aid the reader in understanding the present invention, but it is not intended to vary or otherwise limit the meaning of the invention or terms/phrases describing the invention.
Kit for Applying a Cosmetic Composition to Keratinous Material
According to the present invention, a kit for applying a cosmetic composition to hair, eyebrows and/or eyelashes comprising a cosmetic applicator and a cosmetic composition is provided. Preferably, the cosmetic composition is a mascara.
Cosmetic Applicator
According to the present invention, a cosmetic applicator comprising a brush comprising a core having an outer surface and a longitudinal axis; a plurality of bristles protruding from the core and spaced apart along the longitudinal axis; and a high density zone that covers at least a portion of the outer surface of the core, the high density zone having a surface bristle density of up to 7 bristles per square millimeter of area of the outer surface of the core, and wherein the bristles have a length from about 0.6 mm to about 4 mm is provided for the kits of the present invention.
Exemplary details of the cosmetic applicator of the invention systems will now be described.
Referring now to
The brush 18 may be releasably securable to the container 14, for example via a threaded coupling or other closure structure (not shown). The brush 18 is generally elongated, and includes a bristle section 34 and a handle 38. When the brush 18 is secured to the container 14, the bristle section 34 is inserted into the internal chamber 22 of the container 14 such that a distal end 36 extends through the internal opening 30 of the wiper 26 such that the bristle section 34 may contact the formulation 12 stored within the internal chamber 22. Once the bristle section 34 is removed, formulation 12 that has adhered to the brush 18 may then be applied to an object, such as hairs, by stroking the formulation-laden brush 18 against the object. The subject may occasionally reload the brush 18 by again inserting the distal end 36 into the internal chamber 22, optionally rotating the brush 18 within the chamber and/or shaking the container 14 to distribute formulation 12 around the brush 18, and then removing the brush 18.
Referring now to
As shown in
Returning to
Generally, the core 50 has a cross sectional shape when viewed in a two-dimensional plane that is normal to the longitudinal axis 58. In some embodiments, the cross sectional shape is constant along the longitudinal axis. For example, referring to
Brushes of the present disclosure include one or more high density zones having a plurality of bristles 66 that protrude radially outward from the core 50. The bristles conform to certain bristle density criteria that enable efficient and uniform transfer of formulations to fine hairs, such as eyelashes. The brush may include a single high density zone or a plurality of high density zones. In some embodiments, one or more high density zones may substantially make up the entire brush. For example, the brush 18 of
The bristles serve several important functions, for example storing formulation, breaking up formulation into smaller amounts, separating hairs of the subject, and transferring the formulation to the hairs of the subject. In the brush 18 of
Each bristle ring 70 typically, but not always, extends all the way around the core 50. Referring to
Each bristle may generally be formed from. any thermoplastic material that is optionally relatively rigid, e.g.: styrene-ethylene-butylene-styrene (SEBS); a silicone rubber; latex rubber; a material having good slip; butyl rubber; ethylene-propylene terpolymer rubber (EPDM); a nitrile rubber; a thermoplastic elastomer; a polyester, polyamide polyethylene, or vinyl elastomer; a polyolefin such as polyethylene (PE) or polypropylene (PP); polyvinyl chloride (PVC); ethyl vinyl acetate (EVA); polystyrene (PS); SEBS; styrene-isoprene-styrene (SIS); polyethylene terephthalate (PET); polyoxymethylene (POM): polyurethane (PU); styrene acrylonitrile (SAN); polyamide (PA); or polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA). It is also possible to use a ceramic, e.g. an alumina-based ceramic, a resin, e.g. a urea formaldehyde type resin, possibly a material filled with graphite. In particular, it is possible to use materials known under the trade names Teflon, Hytrel®, Cariflex®, Alixin®, Santoprene®, Pebax®, Pollobes®, this list not being limiting. Preferably, each bristle is formed from at least one thermoplastic elastomer.
The dimensions of individual bristles may vary between embodiments. In particular, the bristle length and bristle diameter can greatly influence brush performance. As used herein, bristle length is measured as the exposed length of a bristle that projects radially outwardly beyond the outer surface 54 of the core 50—not the length considering any additional bristle length below the outer surface of the core. It has been discovered that in high density zones, bristle lengths of about 0.6 mm to about 4.0 mm are preferred for applying formulations to fine hairs, for example bristle lengths of about 0.6 mm, about 1.0 mm, about 1.25 mm, about 1.5 mm, about 2.0 mm, about 3.0 mm, and about 3.5 mm. Referring to
Bristle diameter, measured where the bristle meets the outer surface of the core, should generally be about 0.05 mm to about 0.35 mm, e.g., about 0.1 mm, about 0.125 mm, about 0.15 mm, about 0.175 mm, and about 0.2 mm, subject to the bristle density limits discussed below. Bristles having diameters in this range generally exhibit sufficient stiffness while also permitting the brush to have bristle density within the limits discussed below. For example, the brush 18 of
The number of bristles per bristle ring may vary between embodiments. “Full” bristle rings, i.e., bristle rings that extend completely around the outer surface of the core (i.e., 360 degrees about the longitudinal axis), may each include 2 to 30 bristles in high density zones, and preferably 7 to 15 bristles per ring, for example 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, or any other number of bristles in that range. In full rings, the number of bristles is the “full ring bristle count.” For example, each bristle ring 70 of the brush 18 of
In other embodiments, a partial bristle ring, i.e., a ring sector that does not extend completely around the outer surface of the core (i.e., that does not extend 360 degrees about the longitudinal axis of the core), may also include 2 to 30 bristles. For example, a partial bristle ring may include a sector that extends only 180 degrees about the longitudinal axis and includes 6 bristles in that 180 degree sector, each bristle being spaced apart from the adjacent bristles by an angle α of 30 degrees. Similarly, a single bristle ring may include bristles that have different angular spacing a about longitudinal axis of the core. For example, a single bristle ring may include a first 120 degree sector with 3 bristles spaced apart by 40 degrees, a second 120 degree first sector with 4 bristles spaced apart by 30 degrees, and a third 120 degree sector with 5 bristles spaced apart by 24 degrees. These configurations are merely exemplary. Other embodiments may include partial or full bristle rings having a different number of bristles and different angular spacing, within the limits of bristle density discussed below.
In embodiments with partial bristle rings or bristle rings with heterogeneous angular spacing, it can be useful to think of such partial or heterogeneous bristle rings by reference to an equivalent “full-ring bristle count,” which may be calculated by multiplying a) the number of bristles in the densest angular sector of the partial ring and b) the number of such angular sectors that would fit within a 360 degree ring. For example, in the first example from the previous paragraph, the partial bristle ring that extends 180 degrees around the core and includes 6 bristles would have a full-ring bristle count of 6 bristles*(360/180)=12 bristles. In the second example from the previous paragraph, the 3-sector heterogeneous bristle ring has a full-ring bristle count based upon its densest sector, i.e., 5 bristles*(360/120)=15 bristles.
The spacing between adjacent bristle rings is another important variable within high density zones. As noted above, fine hairs generally have diameters ranging from about 0.05 mm to about 0.1 mm. Adjacent bristle rings should be sufficiently spaced apart along the longitudinal axis such that fine hairs may enter that space—generally at least 0.1 mm. Insufficient spacing (e.g., less than 0.1 mm) not only makes it difficult for individual hairs to enter the spacing between bristles, but may also lead to undesirable clumping because the formulation does not have space to break apart. On the other hand, excessive spacing between adjacent bristles may result in inadequate transfer of formulation to the hairs of a subject because individual hairs pass between bristles without making contact with formulation stored on and around the bristles. This condition leads to inefficient formula transfer. Excessive spacing may also result in inadequate separation of the hairs, which can lead to irregular clumping of formulation on the hairs. To overcome these challenges, adjacent bristle rings of the inventive brushes disclosed herein may be spaced apart by a gap of between about 0.1 mm and about 0.3 mm, subject to the bristle density limitations discussed below. The aforementioned gap refers to the distance, measured along the longitudinal axis, between the nearest surfaces of adjacent bristle rings when viewed in a two-dimensional plane parallel to the longitudinal axis, and is not affected by an axial offset between adjacent bristle rings. For example, referring to
Bristle density is a key variable in high density zones configured to efficiently and uniformly transfer formulations—especially gummy formulations—to fine hairs. More than one measure of bristle density impacts brush performance. One key measure of bristle density is the number of bristles relative to the core length, i.e., “linear bristle density.” It has been discovered that in order to optimally transfer gummy formulations to fine hairs, in certain embodiments, a high density zone should have a linear bristle density of 13 to 31 whole bristles per 0.5 mm of length along the outer surface of the core measured parallel to the longitudinal axis. For example, linear bristle densities of 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, and 31 whole bristles per 0.5 mm of core length may be suitable. In the inventive brushes disclosed herein, 1 to 3 “full” bristle rings will fit within each 0.5 mm of core length within the high density zone, measured along the longitudinal axis. As a metric, the linear bristle density captures several specifications that impact brush performance, including bristle diameter (Δ), angular bristle spacing within a bristle ring (α), as well as spacing between bristles of adjacent bristle rings (G). When linear bristle density exceeds 31 bristles per 0.5 mm of core length, the bristles tend to not allow fine hairs to enter the gaps between bristles and tend to clump the formulation. The “full-ring linear bristle density” is calculated by first converting all bristle rings within the high density zone to their “full-ring bristle count,” then measuring a 0.5 mm length parallel to the longitudinal axis of the core, and counting the number of “full-ring” bristles within the high density zone that would be encompassed by the 0.5 mm length. For example, referring again to
Another key measure of bristle density is the number of bristles relative to the core surface area, or “surface bristle density.” It has been discovered that in order to efficiently and uniformly transfer formulation to fine hairs, a high density zone should have a surface bristle density of up to 7 bristles per square millimeter of surface area of the core (i.e., the nominal core surface area, not considering the surface area occupied by the bristles themselves), preferably 2-7 bristles per square millimeter of surface area of the core, and preferably 4-6 bristles per square millimeter of surface area of the core, as brushes with a surface bristle density that exceeds 7 whole bristles per square millimeter of surface area (i.e., 8/mm2 or greater) tend to not allow fine hairs to enter the gaps between bristles and tend to clump the formulation. As a metric, the surface bristle density captures several specifications that influence brush performance, including bristle diameter (Δ), angular bristle spacing (α), spacing between bristles of adjacent bristle rings along the longitudinal axis (G), and the amount of core surface area that is available to store formulation. The surface bristle density of a high density zone is the greater of a local measurement and an average measurement—neither should exceed 7 bristles per square millimeter of surface area. To determine the local surface bristle density within a high density zone, a 1 mm by 1 mm square in a plane that is tangential to the surface of the core is drawn, and then the number of whole bristles that fit within that 1 mm×1 mm square is counted. For example, referring to the detail view of
To clarify, according to certain embodiments, brushes useful according to the present disclosure may have (1) a high density zone with a linear surface bristle density 13 to 31 whole bristles per 0.5 mm of length along the outer surface of the core measured parallel to the longitudinal axis and (2) a surface bristle density of up to 7 bristles per square millimeter of core surface area (taken as the greater of the local or average surface bristle density measurements described above).
Referring now to
The brush 100 of
Brushes of the present disclosure may provide additional advantages by including at least one external recess for holding formulation. Such recesses are formed within, or by, the outer surface of the core, which recesses then hold formulation by surface tension. By storing formulation, the recesses reduce the frequency with which a brush must be reloaded with formulation, and also provides more formulation to transfer to the hairs of a subject in a single stroke. Such recesses may cooperate with other structure(s) designed to store formulation, e.g., cavities formed with the core of the brush, but are described herein as distinct from such “internal” cavities. The recesses may be formed by molding the core to a particular shape that inherently includes recesses, and/or by removing material from the core in a separate processing step. Cores having recesses may have organic or geometric cross-sectional shapes, which shapes and dimensions may be constant or may vary along a longitudinal axis. Such recesses may have a depth ranging from about 0.1 mm to about 1.5 mm, and may have a length ranging from about 1.0 mm to the entire length of the core.
Referring now to
Referring still to
Many variations in the quantity, shape, and size of recesses are contemplated, and any brush of the present disclosure may include one or more such recesses—not just the embodiment of
In use, the formulation layer 226 surrounds the core 208 and occupies the recesses 220, 224. As is evident from
The high density zone 204 of the brush 200 of
The bristle density of the brush 200 falls within the parameters outlined above. As shown in
As yet another advantage, the hourglass-shaped core 208 advantageously causes the bristles 232, 240 to have a plurality of bristle lengths. Referring again to
In use, a subject may use any of the brushes described herein to apply formulation to hair, such as eyelashes. With reference to the brush 200 of
In summary, inventive brushes of the present disclosure are configured to efficiently and uniformly transfer formulations, especially gummy formulations, to fine hairs. Such brushes include at least one high density zone having a linear bristle density of 13 to 31 whole bristles per 0.5 mm of core length and a surface bristle density of 3 to 5 whole bristles per square millimeter of core surface area. This configuration enables fine hairs to enter gaps between bristles and also enables formulation to break apart between the bristles, contrary to known dense brushes. In addition, brushes may have more than one bristle length, which advantageously enables a single brush to efficiently and uniformly transfer formulation to different hair sizes. In addition, brushes may include one or more recesses formed on or in the core, which enable the brushes to store a greater amount of formulation, which advantageously reduces the frequency with which a brush must be reloaded with formulation, and also provides more formulation to transfer to the hairs of a subject in a single stroke.
The detailed description set forth above in connection with the appended drawings is intended as a description of exemplary embodiments of the disclosed subject matter and is not intended to represent the only embodiments of the cosmetic applicator. The exemplary embodiments described in this disclosure are provided merely as examples or illustrations of a cosmetic applicator and should not be construed as preferred or advantageous over other embodiments. The illustrative examples provided herein are not intended to be exhaustive or to limit the disclosure to the precise forms disclosed. Similarly, any features and/or process steps described herein may be interchangeable with other features and/or process steps, or combinations of features and/or process steps, in order to achieve the same or substantially similar result.
In the foregoing description, numerous specific details are set forth in order to provide a thorough understanding of the exemplary embodiment of the present disclosure. It will be apparent to one skilled in the art, however, that many embodiments of the present disclosure may be practiced without some or all of the specific details. In some instances, well-known features, subassemblies, and/or process steps have not been described in detail in order not to unnecessarily obscure various aspects of the present disclosure. Further, it will be appreciated that embodiments of the present disclosure may employ any combination of features described herein. For instance, any feature or configuration described above with respect to one wiping assembly may be adapted for use with any other wiping assembly.
Although certain descriptive terms have been used to illustrate or describe certain aspects or benefits of the present invention, they should not be seen as limiting. For instance, the present disclosure also includes references to directions, such as “distal,” “proximal,” “upward,” “downward,” “top,” “bottom,” “first,” “second,” etc. These references and other similar references in the present disclosure are only to assist in helping describe and understand the exemplary embodiments and are not intended to limit the claimed subject matter to these directions. The term “cosmetic formulation” or “cosmetic” should be interpreted broadly to include any cosmetic formulation, beauty product, lotion, lacquer, etc., generally applied to the skin, eyes, nails, or other body part of a person. Moreover, it should be appreciated that the cosmetic applicators may also be adapted for other non-cosmetic uses, such as applying medicine, paint, etc., to a desired body part or surface.
The present disclosure may also reference quantities and numbers. Unless specifically stated, such quantities and numbers are not to be considered restrictive, but exemplary of the possible quantities or numbers associated with the present disclosure. Also in this regard, the present disclosure may use the term “plurality” to reference a quantity or number. In this regard, the term “plurality” is meant to be any number that is more than one, for example, two, three, four, five, etc. The terms “substantially,” “about,” “approximately,” etc., mean plus or minus 5%. For the purposes of the present disclosure, the phrase “at least one of A, B, and C,” for example, means (A), (B), (C), (A and B), (A and C), (B and C), or (A, B, and C), including all further possible permutations when greater than three elements are listed.
The principles, representative embodiments, and modes of operation of the cosmetic applicator of the present disclosure have been described in the foregoing description. However, aspects of the present disclosure, which are intended to be protected, are not to be construed as limited to the particular embodiments disclosed. Further, the embodiments described herein are to be regarded as illustrative rather than restrictive. It will be appreciated that variations and changes may be made by others, and equivalents employed, without departing from the spirit of the present disclosure. Accordingly, it is expressly intended that all such variations, changes, and equivalents fall within the spirit and scope of the present disclosure as claimed.
Cosmetic Composition
According to the present invention, a cosmetic composition for application to hair, eyebrows and/or eyelashes is provided. Preferably, the cosmetic composition is a mascara.
According to preferred embodiments, the cosmetic composition of the present invention possesses a viscosity of less than about 250 Pa·S when measured at a shear rate at 5 s−1, preferably 225 Pa·S or less, preferably 200 Pa·S or less and preferably 175 Pa·S or less, and preferably greater than 10 Pa·S, preferably greater than 20 Pa·S, and preferably greater than 25 Pa·S, including all ranges and subranges therebetween including, for example, 10 Pa·S to 250 Pa·S, 20 Pa·S to 200 Pa·S, 15 Pa·S to 150 Pa·S, 40 Pa·S to 100 Pa·S, etc. as measured using, for example, magnetic bearing rheometer such as the Discovery HR-3 rheometer from TA Instruments of New Castle, Del., available from TA Instruments of New Castle, Del.
In accordance with the present invention, the cosmetic composition can be in any form and can contain any ingredient typical of cosmetic compositions for application to hair, eyebrows and/or eyelashes.
The cosmetic compositions can be in any form such as, for example, an anhydrous composition, an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion including a silicone-in-water emulsion, a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion including a water-in-silicone emulsion, a multiple emulsion, etc.
According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, cosmetic compositions of the present invention comprise water and at least one film-forming polymer comprising at least one cyclic group selected from the group consisting of cyclic amides, cyclic amines, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the at least one film-forming polymer comprising at least one cyclic group selected from the group consisting of cyclic amides, cyclic amines, and mixtures thereof is non-ionic and water-soluble or water-dispersible. Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that the presence of a sufficient amount of the at least one film forming polymer comprising at least one cyclic group selected from the group consisting of cyclic amides, cyclic amines, and mixtures thereof in the compositions of the present invention results in a curling effect on hair, eyebrows and/or eyelashes after application to the hair, eyebrows and/or eyelashes (and after the applied composition has dried).
According to preferred embodiments, the film forming polymer comprising at least one cyclic group selected from the group consisting of cyclic amides, cyclic amines, and mixtures thereof has a weight average molecular weight in a range from about 10,000 daltons to about 1,000,000 daltons, preferably from about 20,000 daltons to about 800,000 daltons, preferably from about 50,000 daltons to about 600,000 daltons, and preferably from about 100,000 daltons to about 500,000 daltons, including all ranges and subranges therebetween such as, for example, 15,000 daltons to 900,000 daltons, 200,000 daltons to 400,000 daltons, 10,000 daltons to 150,000 daltons, etc.
Preferably, the cyclic amide group and/or cyclic amine group of the at least one film forming polymer comprise one or more aromatic or aliphatic ring structures. Preferably, the rings have a size of from 4 to 10 ring members, preferably 5 to 8 ring members, and preferably 5 to 6 ring members, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
Preferably, the cyclic amide group and/or cyclic amine group of the at least one film forming polymer are polymerizable ethylenically unsaturated monomers having a cyclic amine residue or a cyclic amide residue. Accordingly, the cyclic amide groups or monomers of the film-forming polymers useful in the present invention may include cyclic amide residues that are, or include, heterocyclic ring structures such as lactams and the like such as, for example, α-Lactam, β-lectern, γ-lactam, δ-lactam, and ε-lactam. Preferably, the cyclic amide is a pyrrolidone (a γ-lactam) a caprolactam, or combinations thereof.
Preferred cyclic amine groups include various heterocyclic amines such as, for example, azoles, pyrroles, pyrrolidines, carbamates, and the like. Preferably, the cyclic amine group is an imidazole.
Optionally, the film forming polymer comprising at least one cyclic group selected from the group consisting of cyclic amides, cyclic amines, and mixtures thereof may further comprise other groups in addition to the cyclide amide groups and/or cyclic amine groups.
If present, the additional group(s) are preferably acrylamide monomer(s), preferably having one or more —C3H5NO functional groups. Specific examples of such additional groups include, but are not limited to, (meth)acrylamides.
An example of a preferred film forming polymer comprising at least one cyclic group selected from the group consisting of cyclic amides, cyclic amines, and mixtures thereof is LUVISET CLEAR AT3, a copolymer of N-vinyl pyrrolidone, methacrylamide, and N-vinylimidazole commercially available from BASF of Ludwigshafen, Germany.
Preferably, the film forming polymer comprising at least one cyclic group selected from the group consisting of cyclic amides, cyclic amines, and mixtures thereof is present in an amount ranging from about 1% to about 40% by weight, preferably from about 3% to about 35% by weight, preferably from about 5% to about 30% by weight, and preferably from about 7% to about 25% by weight, all weights being based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween. Preferably, the compositions of the present invention contain 7% or more by weight of the film forming polymer comprising at least one cyclic group selected from the group consisting of cyclic amides, cyclic amines, and mixtures thereof, preferably 10% or more by weight, preferably 15% or more by weight, all weights being based on the weight of the composition.
Optionally, compositions of the present invention may further comprise at least one additional film forming agent in addition to the film forming polymer comprising at least one cyclic group selected from the group consisting of cyclic amides, cyclic amines, and mixtures thereof other groups in addition to the cyclic amide groups and/or cyclic amine groups.
If present, the at least one additional film forming agent may be any other film forming agent suitable for use in a composition for application to hair, eyebrows and/or eyelashes.
For example, the at least one additional film forming agent may include at least one cyclic amide monomer (hereinafter “second cyclic amide monomer”). The fraction (e.g., weight fraction) of the second cyclic amide monomer in the at least one additional film forming polymer is at least about 70%, preferably at least about 75%, and preferably at least about 80%. Further, the second cyclic amide monomer is preferably selected from a vinyl pyrrolidone (a γ-lactam) a caprolactam, and combinations thereof.
Suitable examples of the additional film forming agent include, but are not limited to, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers having at least 70% vinyl pyrrolidone monomer, such as LUVIKSOL 73E, LUVIKSOL 73W; polyvinylcaprolactam, such as LUVIKSOL Plus; and polyvinyl pyrrolidone homopolymer such as PVP K-60 (or PLASDONE K-60), PVPK-90 (or PLASDONE K-90), or PVP K-120 (or PLASDONE K-120), each commercially available from Ashland, Inc. of Kovington, Ky.
Specific examples also include, but are not limited to, a silicone polymer such as, for example, a non-ionic silicone copolymer such as a non-ionic dimethicone copolymer. The silicone polymer or copolymer may be in the form of particles dispersed in an aqueous dispersion medium. Non-limiting examples of non-ionic silicone polymers include polymethylsiloxane resin, a linear block copolymer, and a mixture thereof. More specifically, non-limiting examples include a dimethicone copolymer such as a copolymer of dimethylpolysiloxane and vinyl dimethylpolysiloxane (i.e., a polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl copolymer) or a copolymer of dimethylpolysiloxane and a (meth)acrylate, with the dimethicone copolymer optionally being crosslinked and/or end-capped with functional groups. For example, a polydimethylsiloxane and vinyl dimethylpolysiloxane may comprise dimethylpolysiloxane that is crosslinked with vinyl dimethylpolysiloxane and/or dimethylpolysiloxane that is end-capped with vinyl dimethylpolysiloxane. A preferred compound includes dimethylpolysiloxane crosslinked with vinyl dimethylpolysiloxane. An example of a particularly useful dimethicone copolymer is a divinyl-dimethicone/dimethicone copolymer available as DOWSIL HMW 2220 Non-Ionic Emulsion, available from Dow Corning of Midland, Mich. This is a 60 percent active aqueous dispersion of divinyldimethicone/dimethicone copolymer and comprising C12-C13 Pareth-3 and C12-C13 Pareth-23.
Specific examples further include non-crosslinked acrylate and acrylic co-polymers, urethane polymers, polyesters and combinations thereof. A non-limiting example of a suitable non-crosslinked additional film forming agent is sodium alginate, available as PROTANAL PH 6160 from FMC Health and Nutrition of Philadelphia, Pa.
Preferably, if present, the additional film forming agent is present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 40% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 30% by weight, preferably from about 1% to about 20% by weight, and preferably from about 2% to about 10% by weight, all weights being based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween. Preferably, the compositions of the present invention contain 2% or less by weight of the additional film forming agent, preferably 1% or less by weight, preferably 0.5% or less by weight, all weights being based on the weight of the composition.
Preferably, the compositions of the present invention contain more film-forming polymer comprising at least one cyclic group selected from the group consisting of cyclic amides, cyclic amines, and mixtures thereof than additional film forming agent by weight. Preferably, the film-forming polymer comprising at least one cyclic group selected from the group consisting of cyclic amides, cyclic amines, and mixtures thereof constitutes at least 55% percent by weight of the film forming component of the compositions of the present invention, at least 60% by weight, at least 75% by weight, at least 80% by weight, and least 90% by weight, all weights being based on the total weight of the film forming component of the composition, with the remainder of the film forming component being made up of the additional film forming agent(s).
For example, the film-forming component may comprise from about 60% to about 95% by weight of a copolymer of N-vinyl pyrrolidone, methacrylamide, and N-vinylimidazole; from about 9% to about 25% by weight of a nonionic film-forming polymer having a fraction of a second cyclic amide monomer that is at least about 70% (e.g., a vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer or a polyvinylcaprolactam), and optionally from about 1% to about 3% by weight of a dimethicone copolymer.
Preferably, the film forming component of the compositions of the present invention are present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 40% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 30% by weight, preferably from about 1% to about 25% by weight, and preferably from about 2% to about 20% by weight, all weights being based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween. Preferably, the compositions of the present invention contain 40% or less by weight of the film forming component, preferably 30% or less by weight, preferably 25% or less by weight, all weights being based on the weight of the composition.
According to the present invention, compositions of the present invention comprise water. Preferably, water is present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount ranging from about 30% to about 90% by weight, preferably from about 40% to about 85% by weight, preferably from about 45% to about 80% by weight, and preferably from about 50% to about 75% by weight, all weights being based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
According to preferred embodiments, compositions of the present invention may optionally further comprise at least one C2-C5 alcohol. Preferred examples of C2-C5 alcohols include C2-C5 monoalcohols such as ethanol, butanol, propanol or isopropanol.
Preferably, if present, the C2-C5 alcohol(s) are present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 8% by weight, preferably from about 0.75% to about 7.5% by weight, and preferably from about 1% to about 6% by weight, all weights being based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
However, according to embodiments of the present invention, compositions of the present invention are free of polyhydric alcohols, essentially free of polyhydric alcohols or substantially free of polyhydric alcohols. “Polyhydric alcohols” include compositions containing two or more alcohol groups such as glycerin or glycols such as propylene, butylene or hexylene glycol.
According to preferred embodiments, compositions of the present invention may optionally further comprise at least one wax. As used herein, “wax” is intended to mean a lipophilic fatty compound that is solid at room temperature (about 25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e., 105 Pa), which undergoes a reversible solid/liquid change of state and which has a melting point of greater than 30° C., and in some embodiments, greater than about 55° C. up to about 120° C. or even as high as about 200° C.
“Wax” may include waxes of animal origin, waxes of plant origin, waxes of mineral origin and waxes of synthetic origin. Examples of waxes of animal origin include beeswaxes, lanolin waxes and Chinese insect waxes. Examples of waxes of plant origin include rice waxes, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricurry wax, cork fiber waxes, sugar cane waxes, Japan waxes, sumach wax and cotton wax. Examples of waxes of mineral origin include paraffins, microcrystalline waxes, montan waxes and ozokerites. Examples of waxes of synthetic origin include polyolefin waxes, e.g., polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, waxy copolymers and their esters, and silicone and fluoro waxes.
“Wax” may further include high melting point hydrogenated oils of animal or plant origin. Examples include hydrogenated jojoba waxes and hydrogenated oils which are obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of fats composed of a C8-C32 linear or nonlinear fatty chain, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated copra oil, hydrogenated lanolin and hydrogenated palm oils.
Preferably, if present, the waxe(s) are present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 1% to about 10% by weight, and preferably from about 1% to about 5% by weight, all weights being based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
However, according to embodiments of the present invention, compositions of the present invention are free of waxes, essentially free of waxes or substantially free of waxes.
According to preferred embodiments, compositions of the present invention may optionally further comprise at least one oil. As used herein, by “oils,” it is meant compounds having a melting point of less than about 30° C. and generally insoluble in water and includes a hydrophobic moiety, such as one meeting one or more of the following three criteria: (a) has a carbon chain of at least six carbons in which none of the six carbons is a carbonyl carbon or has a hydrophilic moiety (defined below) bonded directly to it; (b) has two or more alkyl siloxy groups; or (c) has two or more oxypropylene groups in sequence. The hydrophobic moiety may include linear, cyclic, aromatic, saturated or unsaturated groups. The hydrophobic compound is in certain embodiments not amphiphilic and, as such, in this embodiment does not include hydrophilic moieties, such as anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, or nonionic groups, that are polar, including sulfate, sulfonate, carboxylate, phosphate, phosphonate, ammonium, including mono-, di-, and trialkylammonium species, pyridinium, imidazolinium, amidinium, poly(ethyleneiminium), ammonioalkylsulfonate, ammonioalkylcarboxylate, amphoacetate, and poly(ethyleneoxy)sulfonyl moieties. In certain embodiments, the oil does not include hydroxyl moieties.
Suitable examples of compounds of oils include vegetable oils (glyceryl esters of fatty acids, triglycerides) and fatty esters. Specific non-limiting examples include, without limitation, esters such as isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isononyl isonanoate C12-C15 alkyl benzoates, caprylic/capric triglycerides, silicone oils (such as dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane), pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate and mineral oil. Other examples of oils include liquid organic ultraviolet filter commonly used for example as UV-absorbing sunscreens such as octocrylene, octyl salicylate, octyl methoxyxcinnamate, among others.
Preferably, if present, the oil(s) are present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 1% to about 10% by weight, and preferably from about 1% to about 5% by weight, all weights being based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
However, according to embodiments of the present invention, compositions of the present invention are free of oils, essentially free of oils or substantially free of oils.
However, according to embodiments of the present invention, compositions of the present invention are free of both oils and waxes, essentially free of both oils and waxes or substantially free of both oils and waxes.
According to preferred embodiments, compositions of the present invention may optionally further comprise at least one surfactant or dispersant, for example to assist in wetting or dispersing particulate matter in the composition. Any surfactants, including anionic, nonionic, amphoteric, and cationic, surfactants, may be used in the present invention, as long as the surfactant is cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable. The surfactant may be used either singly or in combination two or more thereof. In one embodiment, the mascara composition may include an anionic surfactant/dispersant such as sodium laureth sulfate.
Preferably, if present, the surfactant(s) or dispersant(s) are present, individually or collectively, in the compositions of the present invention in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 8% by weight, preferably from about 0.75% to about 6% by weight, and preferably from about 1% to about 5% by weight, all weights being based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
However, according to embodiments of the present invention, compositions of the present invention are free of surfactant(s) and dispersant(s), essentially free of surfactant(s) and dispersant(s) or substantially free of surfactant(s) and dispersant(s).
According to preferred embodiments, compositions of the present invention may optionally further comprise at least one particulate.
Suitable colorants include, but are not limited to inorganic particulates that impart color or optical effects and organic pigments. Particulate materials are generally finely divided particulates that are insoluble in but are otherwise homogeneously stabilized (suspended or dispersed) in a vehicle of the composition. Preferably, particulate materials are materials that are incapable of chemically “self-fusing” in-use and are not themselves film-forming.
Suitable inorganic particulate materials include any of a variety of porous, semi-porous, non-porous, or hollow, coated or uncoated water-insoluble inorganic particulates such as silica, alumina, carbon and any of various oxides, silicates, aluminosilicates, nitrides, carbides, carbonates, and the like. In particular embodiments, the inorganic particulate is selected from carbon black, silica, and iron oxide. Other particulates, e.g., organic pigments such as lake pigments. Other organic particulates such as polymeric particulates including nylon particulates, acrylate particulates (e.g., PMMA), silicone elastomer particulates, and the like may also be used.
Preferably, if present, the particulate(s) (for example, colorants such as pigments) are present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 1% to about 12% by weight, and preferably from about 1% to about 10% by weight, all weights being based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
According to preferred embodiments, compositions of the present invention may optionally further comprise at least one dye. Any of various lipophilic or water soluble dyes may be used as well.
Preferably, if present, the dye(s) are present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 1% to about 12% by weight, and preferably from about 1% to about 10% by weight, all weights being based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
Typically, when the composition contains colorants (dyes and/or particulate colorants), the composition may be used as a mascara composition. Alternatively, when the composition does not contain colorants, it is a clear or transparent composition which can be used as a basecoat (or topcoat) prior to (or after) application of a mascara composition to keratinous materials. A composition free of colorants may also be used as a solitary coating (without an additional separate basecoat or topcoat). However, it is possible that topcoats or basecoats could contain colorants, and/or that a mascara composition could contain little or no colorant.
In order to facilitate application to the hair, eyebrows and/or eyelashes, compositions of the present invention generally include a vehicle in which the film-forming polymer portion is stabilized (i.e., dissolved, dispersed or suspended). The vehicle generally includes, consists of or consists essentially of water.
The compositions of the present invention may optionally further include various additives desirably used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions. For example, anti-oxidants, pH adjusters, preservatives, neutralizing agents, fragrances, plasticizers, cosmetic and dermatological active agents such as emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, UV filters, and mixtures thereof can be added. A non-exhaustive listing of such ingredients can be found in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Fourteenth Edition (2012), contents of which are incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.
One of ordinary skill in the art can select optional additional additives and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the compositions according to the present invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
Needless to say, the composition of the invention should be cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, i.e., it should contain a non-toxic physiologically acceptable medium and should be able to be applied to the eyelashes of human beings.
The compositions of the present invention are intended to be applied onto hair, eyelashes and/or eyebrows. In preferred embodiments, the composition is a mascara and it is applied to a portion of eyelash(es) surface to which one desires to impart a concave curvature, such as a curling effect on the eyelash(es).
In this regard, the inventors have found that compositions of the present invention are useful for self-curling of eyelash(es) by applying them to the surface of eyelash(es) in which the curling effect is desired and allowing the composition to dry. So, for example, applying the composition to the top surface of the upper eyelash results in an upward curl of the top eyelash.
Accordingly, one aspect of the present invention are methods of making up hair, eyebrows and/or eyelashes comprising applying compositions of the present invention to the hair, eyebrows and/or eyelashes using the applicator of the present invention in an amount sufficient to make up the hair, eyebrows and/or eyelashes and allowing the composition to dry. Without wishing to be bound by any theories, it is believe that the compositions of the present invention, by virtue of their ingredients, result in film formation on the hair, eyebrows and/or eyelashes which shrinks during drying, thereby resulting in a self-curling effect in the direction oriented toward the surface of the hair, eyebrow and/or eyelash to which the composition was applied.
Accordingly, one aspect of the present invention are methods of curling hair, eyebrows and/or eyelashes comprising applying compositions of the present invention to the hair, eyebrows and/or eyelashes in an amount sufficient to curl the hair, eyebrows and/or eyelashes using the applicator of the present invention and allowing the composition to dry. Without wishing to be bound by any theories, it is believe that the compositions of the present invention, by virtue of their ingredients, result in film formation on the hair, eyebrows and/or eyelashes which shrinks during drying, thereby resulting in a self-curling effect in the direction oriented toward the surface of the hair, eyebrow and/or eyelash to which the composition was applied.
In accordance with the above methods, the compositions of the present invention may be applied to hair, eyebrows and/or eyelashes as needed, preferably once or twice daily, more preferably once daily. As noted above, the compositions should be allowed to dry after application.
Compositions of the present invention may be made by mixing at least one film-forming polymer comprising at least one cyclic group selected from the group consisting of cyclic amides, cyclic amines, and mixtures thereof in water until dissolution. This film forming polymer and other water-soluble ingredients may be mixed by stirring, shaking, grounding, or beating, optionally with a stirrer, a magnetic stirrer, a shaker, a homogenizer, or any other methods suitably used to mix cosmetic composition. The mixing may be carried out with or without heating or cooling the ingredients. Particulates and other ingredients that are to be dispersed are then added with mixing to form a homogeneous mixture.
According to embodiments of the present invention, compositions of the present invention may be used as a “primer” (first treatment in a two-step process) such as before using as a second step a traditional composition such as a mascara (or other hair, eyebrow and/or eyelash composition). The second step may include applying the traditional composition (e.g., mascara) to the opposite surface of the hair, eyebrows and/or eyelashes to which the invention composition has been applied. However, the traditional composition may also be applied to the same surface of the hair, eyebrows and/or eyelashes that the compositions of the present invention have been applied. Also, the traditional composition can be applied to both surfaces of the hair, eyebrows and/or eyelashes, if desired.
Unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients, reaction conditions, and so forth used in the specification and claims are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term “about.” Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical parameters set forth in the following specification and attached claims are approximations that may vary depending upon the desired properties sought to be obtained by the present invention.
Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters setting forth the broad scope of the invention are approximations, the numerical values set forth in the specific examples are reported as precisely as possible. Any numerical value, however, inherently contain certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective measurements. The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without limiting the scope as a result. The percentages are given on a weight basis.
Four different applicators were evaluated by consumers. They were each tested using an identical composition. The composition included water, LUVISET CLEAR AT3, a non-ionic water-soluble copolymer that includes a cyclic amide monomer, a cyclic amine monomer, and an acrylamide monomer (BASF Corporation). The composition further included SIMULGEL 600 (Seppic, Inc. of Fairfield, N.J.), PROTANAL PH 6160 (FMC BioPolymer), carbon black and water (q.s.). The composition included about had a viscosity of about 161 Pa S when measured at a shear rate at 5 s−1.
The four applicators were commercially available. The first of the four, Inventive Example 1, was a mascara applicator commercially available from Geka Manufacturing Company, a subsidiary of Sulzer Ltd. of Winterthur, Switzerland which had 1248 total bristles and a surface area of around 260 mm2, resulting in around 4.8 bristles per mm2, and had a high density zone that covers at least a portion of the outer surface of the core, the high density zone having a surface bristle density of up to 7 bristles per square millimeter of area of the outer surface of the core, and wherein the bristles had a length from about 0.6 mm to about 4 mm.
The second, Comparative Example 1 was a flocked fiber applicator not typically used for mascara. It did not have a high density zone having a surface bristle density of up to 7 bristles per square millimeter of area (the bristle density was considerably greater).
The third, Comparative Example 2 was a conventional fiber-based mascara straight applicator formed from twisted/trimmed fibers. It did not have a high density zone having a surface bristle density of up to 7 bristles per square millimeter of area (as with the Comparative Example 1, the bristle density was considerably greater).
The fourth, Comparative Example 3 was a conventional fiber-based mascara curved applicator formed from twisted/trimmed fibers. It did not have a high density zone having a surface bristle density of up to 7 bristles per square millimeter of area (as with the other Comparative Examples, the bristle density was considerably greater).
The applicators were evaluated for their ability to successfully apply the composition to consumers' eyelashes. Specifically, each of nine make-up artists applied the composition separately using each of the four applicators to the tops of their lashes. Each make-up artist was then asked to rate the experience by whether they agreed or disagreed with eleven of various statements/attributes.
None of the applicators of Comparative Examples 1-3 had a high density zone that covers at least a portion of the outer surface of the core, the high density zone having a surface bristle density of up to 7 bristles per square millimeter of area of the outer surface of the core, and wherein the bristles have a length from about 0.6 mm to about 4 mm.
For Inventive Example 1, ten of eleven attributes were positive and one was mixed. The make-up artists all agreed that their initial reaction was positive, the experience was differentiated from conventional mascara, the applicator was intuitive to use on the top lash, provided even application, provided control, did not transfer to lids, separated lashes/did not clump, the brush easily glided through the lashes, the gesture was easy, and the end look was positive with respect to curl, lift, and separation. Only the response to whether it deposited the right amount of product was mixed (some positive/negative).
For Comparative Example 1, the application was only rated positive in five of the eleven attributes (positive initial reaction, differentiated from conventional mascara, intuitive to use on top lash, right amount of product deposited, and easy gesture) mixed in two (even application and end look was positive with respect to curl, lift, and separation), and negative in the rest.
For Comparative Example 2, the application was rated positive in zero of the eleven attributes, mixed in three (positive initial reaction, differentiated from conventional mascara, and provided control), and negative in the rest.
For Comparative Example 3, the application was rated positive in zero of the eleven attributes, mixed in two (positive initial reaction, differentiated from mascara), and negative in the rest.
The results show that when used with a composition having a viscosity of less than about 250 Pa S when measured at a shear rate at 5 s−1, the applicator having a high density zone that covers at least a portion of the outer surface of the core, the high density zone having a surface bristle density of up to 7 bristles per square millimeter of area of the outer surface of the core, where the bristles have a length from about 0.6 mm to about 4 mm, performed surprisingly well in evaluations with consumers.
Mascara compositions were prepared by mixing into water various ingredients: a film forming polymer portion, and various functional ingredients (thickener, preservative, pigment, antioxidant).
A shear rate viscosity sweep (ramping 0.01/s-1000/s shear rate) was performed using a Discovery HR-3 rheometer from TA Instruments of New Castle, Del. to determine viscosity as a function of shear rate. The viscosity at a shear rate of 5 s−1 is reported in Table 1 below.
The following SELF-CURLING TEST was also performed on the various compositions. Using a flat iron, hair fiber strands (fake eyelashes), 12 mm in length secured between metal plates—available from SP Equation of Pourcieux, France—were straightened by gently stroking them using a commercially available hair straightener set to 450° F. for a sufficient period to straighten the fibers. A mascara applicator of Inventive Example 1 commercially available from Geka Manufacturing Company, a subsidiary of Sulzer Ltd. of Winterthur, Switzerland was used to apply compositions to the hair fiber strands. The applicator had a high density zone that covers at least a portion of the outer surface of the core, the high density zone having a surface bristle density of up to 7 bristles per square millimeter of area of the outer surface of the core, and wherein the bristles have a length from about 0.6 mm to about 4 mm.
The various compositions to be tested were applied to the fake eyelashes and stroked ten times on one side of the simulated eyelashes to deposit approximately 2 mg to 10 mg of composition. The treated lashes were put into a humidity chamber (25%-45% RH and 32° C.) for 5 minutes. A curl measurement was then taken by placing a protractor near the eyelashes and visually estimating the angle of curl relative to the horizontal surface of the metal plate within which the fake eyelashes are secured.
A summary of the compositions, the results of the rheometer testing and SELF-CURLING TEST are shown in Table 1.
1LUVISET CLEAR AT3, a copolymer of N-vinyl pyrrolidone, methacrylamide, and N-vinylimidazole from BASF of Ludwigshafen, Germany
2PROTANAL PH 6160 from FMC Health and Nutrition of Philadelphia, PA
3PVP K-120 from Ashland, Inc. of Kovington, KY
4LUVISET ONE from BASF of Ludwigshafen, Germany
5ACUDYNE SCP from Dow Chemical of Midland, Michigan
6LUVIMER MAE 6160 from BASF of Ludwigshafen, Germany
The results indicate that when applied with an applicator having a high density zone that covers at least a portion of the outer surface of the core, the high density zone having a surface bristle density of up to 7 bristles per square millimeter of area of the outer surface of the core, and wherein the bristles have a length from about 0.6 mm to about 4 mm, self-curling is vastly improved when using a composition having a viscosity at a shear Rate of 5 s−1 that is less than about 250 Pa S. Together with the data in Example 1 it is clear that both the applicator and the composition are important to achieving the desirable self-curling.