Aspects herein provide for a knit garment with reduced seams and methods for making a knit garment with reduced seams.
Garments typically are made by piecing together two or more separate cuts of fabric. For example, a shirt may be pieced as a front bodice, back bodice, and sleeves, which are joined together at side seams, underarm seams, and shoulder seams. Seams may be troublesome in a shirt for a number of reasons. Seams may be subject to manufacturing defects, including seams which are incomplete or insecure, misplaced, or otherwise fail to create a durable, aesthetically pleasing seam. Seams may add bulk, particularly if the seam joins more than two pieces of fabric, and the bulk may be unattractive or uncomfortable. Seams can also cause chaffing if they rub against the skin, for example, in form-fitting clothes or active wear.
The present invention is described in detail herein with reference to the attached drawing figures, wherein:
The subject matter of the present invention is described with specificity herein to meet statutory requirements. However, the description itself is not intended to limit the scope of this disclosure. Rather, the inventors have contemplated that the claimed or disclosed subject matter might also be embodied in other ways, to include different steps or combinations of steps similar to the ones described in this document, in conjunction with other present or future technologies. Moreover, although the terms “step” and/or “block” might be used herein to connote different elements of methods employed, the terms should not be interpreted as implying any particular order among or between various steps herein disclosed unless and except when the order of individual steps is explicitly stated.
At a high level, aspects hereof provide for a garment having a single continuous seam along the back of the garment. The garment may be a shirt. The shirt has a seamless, tubular torso section and a shoulder section. The shoulder section is knit continuously with the torso section along a front section of the garment. A single, continuous seam affixes the shoulder section to the torso section across a width of the upper back of the garment.
Aspects hereof provide a method for making a garment. The method includes continuously knitting a double-layer web. The web is defined by at least a first lateral edge and a second lateral edge opposite the first lateral edge. The method includes intermittently interlooping the layers of the web to one another along lines generally parallel to each other and spaced apart from the first and second lateral edges of the web to form a central tube. The web is severed at a first longitudinal boundary of the interlooping, and at a seam line. The seam line is positioned a distance greater than 0 mm from a second longitudinal boundary of the interlooping. The seam line and the first and second longitudinal boundaries are oriented generally perpendicular to the first and second lateral edges. Material is trimmed from at least a first layer of the web along a trim line positioned between the second longitudinal boundary line and the seam line. The second layer is folded over itself, toward the first layer, and the second layer is affixed to the first layer along a seam formed between at least portion of the seam line and at least a portion of the trim line.
The double-layer web can be formed using circular knitting or flat knitting. During the knitting process, a neck hole may be formed in the second layer, positioned between the second longitudinal boundary and the seam line. Alternately or additionally, a neck hole may be cut from a second layer. The neck hole edges may be finished.
The interlooping between the layers of the web may occur in a region of functionally distinctive knitting. The functionally distinctive knitting may include open areas for venting the garment. The first and second lateral edges of the web may be trimmed in a shoulder section, above the trim line, before seaming the second layer to the first layer. After trimming, the shoulder section may have substantially a same width as the torso section. Or the second layer may extend laterally beyond a width of the central tube, forming a lateral overhang. The lateral overhang can be seamed to a portion of the seam line to form sleeves. The lateral edges of the sleeves may be finished.
In another aspect, a garment is disclosed having a seamless tubular torso section formed by interlooping two or more layers of a web. The tubular torso section has a first open end and a second open end opposite the first open end, when the garment is in an unconstructed state. The garment has a shoulder section, integrally formed with a first layer of the tubular torso section and enclosing the second open end of the tubular torso section when the garment is in a constructed state. The shoulder section has a front portion and a back portion. A shoulder seam joins the tubular torso section to the shoulder section along the back portion of the shoulder section. There is a neck hole in the shoulder section. The shoulder seam may arch up toward the neck hole between two sleeves. The garment may have venting along at least a portion of the tubular torso section, the shoulder section, or at least one sleeve extending outwardly from the shoulder section. The tubular torso section may have a mesh knit pattern incorporated along at least two lateral sides of the tubular torso section. The garment may have no seaming along a superior aspect of the shoulder section.
The reduction in seams may result in improved comfort and/or reduced bulk in the garment. The placement of the seam may reduce the potential for chaffing of tender or sensitive skin, such as the skin under the arms.
Positional terms as used herein such as “superior,” “top,” “bottom,” “inferior,” “anterior,” “posterior,” and the like are to be given their common meaning with respect to the apparel item being worn by a hypothetical wearer standing in an upright position. The term “garment” as used in this disclosure refers to an article of clothing, such as a shirt. The form of the shirt may include long-sleeved, ¾-sleeved, short-sleeved, and sleeveless shirts, including tank tops, as well as long shirts, short shirts (or “crop tops”), loose-fitting shirts, body-conforming shirts, and the like. “Garments” also includes, without limitation, apparel typically worn on the upper half of the body, such as jackets, sweaters, vests and nightshirts. As used in this disclosure, terms such as “seaming,” “affixing,” “coupling,” “securing,” and the like may mean releasably attaching or permanently attaching two or more elements together. Elements may be releasably attached using, for instance, zippers, sliders, buttons, hooks, snaps, hook-and-loop fasteners, releasable adhesives, and the like. Elements may be permanently attached using, for instance, stitching, bonding, welding, laminates, adhesives, and the like.
Referring now to
Layers 12, 14 may be interlooped to one another along interlooping lines 16, which run generally parallel to one another and at or within the lateral edges 18 of web 10. For instance, interlooping lines 16 may run a non-zero distance from lateral edges 18 of web 10. Or interlooping lines 16 may be spaced apart from the lateral edges 18 of web 10 by a predetermined distance. The interloops along interlooping lines 16 join the knit of layer 12 to the knit of layer 14. This interlooping may be accomplished using, for example, a Kitchener stitch or equivalent, and may result in the appearance of a continuous, seamless central tube in torso section 44 (shown in
The web 10 may be severed or cut at or near a first longitudinal boundary 20 of the interlooping lines 16, where the first longitudinal boundary 20 may be oriented perpendicular or near perpendicular the interlooping lines 16. The first longitudinal boundary 20 may form or be used to form (e.g., by hemming or other finishing) the bottom edge 180 of the torso section 44 of the garment 32 as shown in
With reference again to
In
Trimming away discard flaps 30 yields a garment blank 56, as shown in
To finish the garment 32, an upper surface 130 of layer 14, is folded over itself and toward first layer 12, shown partially folded over in
Trim line 28 need not be affixed to seam line 22 along the entire length of trim line 28 and/or seam line 22. For example, gaps may be left in the seam for aesthetic reasons, or to permit the transfer of heat, air, and/or moisture. The lateral overhang 48 may be affixed to a corresponding portion of seam line 22 as a continuation of seam 50 to form sleeves 120, terminating in armhole edges 160, as shown in
Seam 50 may be linear, or curvilinear, or irregular, and may be symmetric or asymmetric about an axis running length-wise (i.e., parallel to lateral edges 18) down the center of the garment. In some embodiments, seam 50 may arch upward toward neck hole 36 between lateral edges 54a and 54b as shown in
In some aspects the edges of the garment 32 are knit in a manner that allows them to be cut-to-finish. For example, warp knitting will not unravel when cut and, for some materials and knitting patterns, may provide a suitable finished edge with no further processing after trimming. Alternately, bottom edge 180, armhole edges 160, and/or neck hole 36 may be finished, as by hemming the edge (via any securement mechanism, including those described above, such as sewing, welding, gluing, buttons, etc.), serging, overlock, embroidery, the addition of a separate finishing band or material (such as neckband 90 or a collar, not shown), or combinations thereof. If one or more of bottom edge 180, armhole edges 160, and/or neck hole 36 is finished, the other edges may be finished or unfinished, and, if finished, may be finished in the same manner or in a different manner. As noted above, neck hole 36 may be knit into the fabric (or, from a different perspective, the web may be knit around neck hole 36). If neck hole 36 is formed during the knitting process, neckband 90 may also be formed during the knitting process, and may comprise the same or a different pattern, thickness, or tightness of knit than the surrounding knit material. That is, neckband 90 may be distinguishable from the remainder of layer 14 (if it is distinguishable from the remainder of layer 14) because of a localized knitting pattern, rather than because neckband 90 is added separately to garment 32. When neckband 90 is integrally formed in the shoulder section 42, no seaming is required to join neckband 90 to garment 32.
Garment 32 may be knitted from any desired material, including natural fibers, synthetic fibers, and combinations thereof. Suitable materials may include polyester, elastane (commonly referred to by its tradename, LYCRA), cotton, wool, silk, rayon, nylon, acrylic, modified versions of these fibers, and combinations of these fibers, to include coated or co-extruded fibers. Functional fabrics made by material selection and/or modified knitting patterns are known and may be used for the entire garment 32 or portions thereof, such as regions 100, 110. Exemplary functional fabrics, including fabrics that can change breathability (transmission of air, heat and/or moisture) under different environmental conditions, are described in U.S. Patent Publication 2005/0204449.
Unless otherwise noted, a garment according to aspects of this disclosure may be further processed or embellished, and in particular may be supplemented with additional parts, such as collars, cuffs, decoration (including, without limitation, decorative and/or functional fasteners, sequins, glitter, paint or printing, rhinestones, ribbons, other trim or notions, and combinations thereof). Such additions may involve additional seaming, and any additions may be affixed in locations or affixed using methods to avoid seams under the arms, along the sides of the torso (e.g., along the torso, generally under the arms), or on the superior aspect of the shoulders.
Aspects of the present disclosure have been described with the intent to be illustrative rather than restrictive. Alternative aspects will become apparent to those skilled in the art that do not depart from its scope. A skilled artisan may develop alternative means of implementing the aforementioned improvements without departing from the scope of the present invention.
It will be understood that certain features and subcombinations are of utility and may be employed without reference to other features and subcombinations and are contemplated within the scope of the claims. Not all steps listed in the various figures need be carried out in the specific order described.
This application claims the benefit of U.S. Provisional Patent Application No. 62/465,361, filed Mar. 1, 2017, which is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety.
Number | Date | Country | |
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62465361 | Mar 2017 | US |