A variety of articles are formed from textiles. As examples, articles of apparel (e.g., shirts, pants, socks, footwear, jackets and other outerwear, briefs and other undergarments, hats and other headwear), containers (e.g., backpacks, bags), and upholstery for furniture (e.g., chairs, couches, car seats) are often at least partially formed from textiles. These textiles are often formed by weaving or interlooping (e.g., knitting) a yarn or a plurality of yarns, usually through a mechanical process involving looms or knitting machines. One particular object that may be formed from a textile is an upper for an article of footwear.
Conventional articles of footwear generally include two primary elements: an upper and a sole structure. The upper is secured to the sole structure and forms a void within the article of footwear for comfortably and securely receiving a foot. The sole structure is secured to a lower surface of the upper so as to be positioned between the upper and the ground. In some articles of athletic footwear, for example, the sole structure may include a midsole and an outsole. The midsole may be formed from a polymer foam material that attenuates ground reaction forces to lessen stresses upon the foot and leg during walking, running, and other ambulatory activities. The outsole may be secured to a lower surface of the midsole and forms a ground-engaging portion of the sole structure that is formed from a durable and wear-resistant material.
The upper of the article of footwear generally extends over the instep and toe areas of the foot, along the medial and lateral sides of the foot, and around the heel area of the foot. Access to the void on the interior of the upper is generally provided by an ankle opening in a heel area of the footwear. A lacing system is often incorporated into the upper to adjust the fit of the upper, thereby facilitating entry and removal of the foot from the void within the upper. The upper may include a tongue that extends under the lacing system to enhance adjustability of the footwear, and the upper may incorporate a heel counter to limit movement of the heel.
The embodiments will be further described in connection with the attached drawings. It is intended that the drawings included as a part of this specification be illustrative of the exemplary embodiments and should in no way be considered as a limitation on the scope of the present disclosure. Indeed, the present disclosure specifically contemplates other embodiments not illustrated but intended to be included in the claims.
Various aspects are described below with reference to the drawings in which like elements generally are identified by like numerals. The relationship and functioning of the various elements of the aspects may better be understood by reference to the following detailed description. However, aspects are not limited to those illustrated in the drawings or explicitly described below. It also should be understood that the drawings are not necessarily to scale, and in certain instances details may have been omitted that are not necessary for an understanding of aspects disclosed herein, such as conventional fabrication and assembly.
Certain aspects of the present disclosure relate to articles at least partially formed from textiles. One example of an article is an article of apparel (e.g., shirts, pants, socks, footwear, jackets and other outerwear, briefs and other undergarments, hats and other headwear, or the like). The article may be an upper configured for use in an article of footwear. The upper may be used in connection with any type of footwear. Illustrative, non-limiting examples of articles of footwear include a basketball shoe, a biking shoe, a cross-training shoe, a global football (soccer) shoe, an American football shoe, a bowling shoe, a golf shoe, a hiking shoe, a ski or snowboarding boot, a tennis shoe, a running shoe, and a walking shoe. The upper may also be incorporated into a non-athletic shoe, such as a dress shoe, a loafer, and a sandal.
Referring to
The article of footwear 100 may additionally include a throat area 112 and an ankle opening 114, which may be surrounded by a collar 116 and may lead to a void 118. The void 118 of the article of footwear 100 may be configured to accommodate a foot of a person. The throat area 112 may be generally disposed in a midfoot area 120 of the upper 102. The midfoot area 120 is generally an area of the upper 102 located between a heel area 122 and a toe area 124. In some embodiments, a tongue may be disposed in the throat area 112, but a tongue is an optional component. The tongue may be any type of tongue, such as a gusseted tongue or a burrito tongue. If a tongue is not included, the lateral and medial sides of the throat area 112 may be joined together. As shown, in some embodiments, the article of footwear 100 may include an optional fastening element, such as a lace (which may be associated with the lace apertures 126). Any suitable type of fastening element may be used.
The upper may further include one or more structures, including but not limited to, at least one raised structure 128, sometimes referred to herein as a “welt” or “ottoman.” The raised structure may be a variety of shapes and sizes, and in one example, may be a generally elongated structure that extends in a direction that is generally perpendicular to the course-wise direction of the knitted component.
The raised structure 128 may be arranged at any suitable location on the article of footwear, such as in the heel area 122, the medial side 108, the lateral side 106, the toe area 124, and/or another location or combination thereof. The raised structure 128 may be formed by two layers that are at least partially overlapping and co-extensive, with a pocket formed therebetween (as described in more detail below). The raised structure 128 may be advantageous for providing the article of footwear 100 with suitable cushioning, rigidity (e.g., without sacrificing flexibility in certain directions), durability, desirable aesthetic properties, or other properties. Any suitable number of raised structures 128 may be included. In some embodiments, a plurality of raised structures 128 may be included. In one non-limiting example, as shown in
At least a portion of the upper 102, and in some embodiments substantially the entirety of the upper 102, may be formed of a knitted component 132, such as a weft-knitting process on a flat knitting machine, for example. The knitted component 132 may additionally or alternatively form another element of the article of footwear, such as an underfoot portion, for example. The knitted component 132 may have a first side 130 forming an inner surface of the upper 102 (e.g., facing the void of the article of footwear) and a second side 134 forming an outer surface of the upper 102 (e.g. facing generally opposite the first side 130). The first side 130 and the second side 134 of the knitted component 132 may exhibit different characteristics (e.g., the first side 130 may provide abrasion resistance and comfort while the second side 134 may be relatively rigid and provide water resistance, among other advantageous characteristics mentioned herein). The knitted component 132 may be formed as an integral one-piece element during a knitting process, such as a weft knitting process (e.g., with a flat knitting machine or circular knitting machine), a warp knitting process, or any other suitable knitting process. That is, the knitting process on the knitting machine may substantially form the knit structure of the knitted component 132 without the need for significant post-knitting processes or steps. Alternatively, two or more portions of the knitted component 132 may be formed separately as distinct integral one-piece elements and then the respective elements attached.
Forming the upper 102 with the knitted component 132 may provide the upper 102 with advantageous characteristics including, but not limited to, a particular degree of elasticity (for example, as expressed in terms of Young's modulus), breathability, bendability, strength, moisture absorption, weight, abrasion resistance, and/or a combination thereof. These characteristics may be accomplished by selecting a particular single layer or multi-layer knit structure (e.g., a ribbed knit structure, a single jersey knit structure, or a double jersey knit structure), by varying the size and tension of the knit structure, by using one or more yarns formed of a particular material (e.g., a polyester material, a relatively inelastic material, or a relatively elastic material such as spandex), by selecting yarns of a particular size (e.g., denier), and/or a combination thereof. The knitted component 132 may also provide desirable aesthetic characteristics by incorporating yarns having different colors, reflectivity, textures or other visual properties arranged in a particular pattern.
The yarns themselves and/or the knit structure formed by one or more of the yarns of the knitted component 132 may be varied at different locations such that the knitted component 132 has two or more portions with different properties (e.g., a portion forming the throat area 112 of the upper 102 may be relatively elastic while another portion may be relatively inelastic). In some embodiments, the knitted component 132 may incorporate one or more materials with properties that change in response to a stimulus (e.g., temperature, moisture, electrical current, magnetic field, or light).
For example, the knitted component 132 may include yarns formed of a thermoplastic polymer material (e.g., polyurethanes, polyamides, polyolefins, and nylons) that transitions from a solid state to a softened or liquid state when subjected to certain temperatures at or above its melting point and then transitions back to the solid state when cooled. The thermoplastic polymer material may provide the ability to heat and then cool a portion of the knitted component 132 to thereby form an area of fused or bonded or continuous material that exhibits certain advantageous properties including a relatively high degree of rigidity, strength, and water resistance, for example.
The knitted component 132 may include a seamless portion extending from the toe area 124, through a midfoot area 120, and to a heel area 122 on at least one of a lateral side and a medial side of the upper. In some embodiments, the knitted component 132 may include a first edge and a second edge, which may be terminal ends of the knitted component 132 after the knitting process when the knitted component 132 is removed from the knitting machine. After the knitting process, the knitted component 132 may be folded or otherwise manipulated such that a first edge and the second edge are secured together at a seam 140 during formation of the upper 102. The seam 140 may be located on the lateral side 106 of the upper 102, on the medial side 108 of the upper 102, and/or in another location (e.g., at the back of the heel area 122 of the upper as shown in
When forming the knitted component 132, the knitted component 132 may be oriented with respect to a needle bed of a knitting machine such that a feeder of the knitting machine is capable of moving in a single pass (i.e., without changing its feed direction direction) to knit a first course 150 (see
In some embodiments, the first course 150 may include a continuous strand of yarn that extends between the lateral and medial side of the upper 102. Additionally or alternatively, one or more strands of yarn forming at least a portion of the first course 150 may extend less than the full length of the first course 150. For example, it is contemplated that a strand of yarn may extend from one side of the upper (such as a lateral or a medial side) to the other side of the upper, but may terminate within the first course 150 prior to reaching the other side. In one non-limiting example, one strand of yarn may extend from a lateral side towards a medial side when forming a course but terminate before it reaches the medial side. The course may continue in an uninterrupted manner towards the medial side, but with an additional or alternative strand of a different second yarn picking up where the first yarn terminated. Alternatively, a first and second strand can be combined such that the course is knitted with a combination of the first and second strand of yarn.
As shown in
As shown in
The first layer 154 and the second layer 156 may both be formed by knit structures of the knitted component 132 such that the raised structure 128 is primarily formed on a knitting machine with the rest of the knitted component 132. In some embodiments, the above-described a single course may form at least one of the first layer 154 and the second layer 156 of the raised structure 128 and preferably a single course may form at least a portion of both the first and second layer of the raised structure 128.
When the knitted component 132 is included in an upper, the second layer 156 may form an external surface of an upper and the first layer 154 may form an inner surface of the upper. The first course 150 may extend along a direction that herein defines “a first direction” (which is illustrated as lateral to medial direction, generally along an x-axis as shown in
In such an arrangement, at least one raised structure 128 and/or a plurality of the raised structures 128 extend in a heel to toe direction, generally along a y-axis as shown in
A raised structure 128 may include a length 162 along the second direction (e.g., heel-to-toe in
A variety of processes are contemplated for creating the raised structure 128 (i.e. a vertical ottoman), and these processes may occur during or after the knitting process for forming the knitted component 132. For example, the upper may be knit on a knitting machine having a front bed and a back bed. In one example, a yarn knit on the back bed may ultimately form the first side 130 forming an inner surface of the upper 102 (e.g., facing the void of the article of footwear). A yarn knit on the front bed may ultimately form the second side 134 forming an outer surface of the upper 102 (e.g. facing generally opposite the first side 130), as shown in
One or more yarns may be used when knitting the knitted component. In one non-limiting example, a first yarn may be used to form at least a portion of the first side 130 of the knitted component forming an inner surface of an upper. The first yarn may include, for example a relatively elastic yarn. One or more ends of the first yarn may be used, such as one end, two or more ends. Preferably, in this example, one end of the first yarn may be used. In one non-limiting example, the first yarn may be an “E04”-type yarn supplied by Unifi, Inc. of Greensboro, N.C., which preferably has a relatively high elasticity compared to other yarns that may be used to form the knitted component. The first yarn may comprise a spandex core (i.e. Lycra) wrapped with polyester. It may have a denier range of 800-1100, and a tensile strength of >0.75 and an elongation of 180-250. In some embodiments, such as when it is desirable for the first yarn to reduce in size during the manufacturing process, the shrinkage rate of the first yarn may be higher relative to other yarns used to form the knitted component when subjected to heat (or another stimulus). In other words, when subjected to heat (e.g., via steam), the first yarn may shrink more, and/or at a higher rate, than the other yarns used to form the knitted component. Features associated with a relatively-high shrinkage rate are described in more detail below.
A second yarn may be used to form at least a portion of the second side 134, or outer surface, of the knitted component. The second yarn may be the same as the first yarn or it may be different. In one example, the second yarn used to form at least a portion of the second side 134 of the knitted component (which forms at least a portion of the outer surface of the upper) is a yarn that has different properties relative to the first yarn. In one example, the second yarn is a relatively inelastic yarn. One or more ends of the second yarn may be used, such as one end, two ends or more than two ends. For example, four ends of the second yarn may be used. This second yarn may be referred to as “P16” provided by Unifi, Inc. of Greensboro, N.C., which may have a relatively low elasticity compared to other yarns that may be used to form the knitted component. The second yarn may be formed primarily of a strand, or multiple strands, of textured polyester. It may have a denier range of approximately 155D to approximately 180D, a tensile strength of about 0.5 to 0.7 and an elongation of 20-40. The shrinkage rate of the second yarn may be lower relative to other yarns used to form the knitted component. In other words, when subjected to a similar amount of heat, (e.g., such as via steam), the second yarn may shrink much less if at all, and/or at a lower rate, than the other yarns used to form the knitted component.
In addition to the first and second yarn used to form the knitted component, a third yarn may be used to form the knitted component. The third yarn may be the same as the first yarn and/or the second yarn, or it may be different. In one example, the third yarn used to form at least a portion of the knitted component comprises a yarn that is different than the first yarn and the second yarn. In one example, the third yarn is relatively less elastic than the first yarn (E04) but is relatively more elastic than the second yarn (P16). The third yarn may be a combination of materials or strands. In one example, the third yarn may comprise a combination of a polyester yarn with an elastic core and a yarn formed of a thermoplastic polymer material, sometimes referred to as a “fusible yarn.” The polyester yarn with an elastic core may be referred to as “P15” (which, in one example, is a strand of the P16 mentioned above, air tacked to a strand of spandex). The yarn formed of a thermoplastic polymer material, or fusible yarn may be a polyester that melts at about 60° C. In one non-limiting example, the fusible yarn may be approximately 150 denier, comprising 34 continuous filaments. Thus, the third yarn may be a combination of a polyester yarn (i.e. P15) and a yarn formed of a thermoplastic polymer material, or “fusible yarn.” The combination of materials, such as the polyester yarn and the fusible yarn that together form the third yarn may be achieved by twisting, winding, braiding, and or wrapping on about the other and the like, and/or the yarns may be a core/sheath configuration, and/or the yarns may be tacked along their length at a plurality of points.
One or more ends of the third yarn may be used, such as one end, two ends or more than two ends. Preferably, in this example, the third yarn comprises a combination of four ends of P15 and one end of a fusible yarn. The elastic (i.e. Lycra) core of the P15 allows the third yarn to have a greater elasticity than the second yarn (i.e. P16 yarn), but a lower elasticity than the first yarn (the elastic E04 yarn). The third yarn may have a denier range of approximately 160D to approximately 190D, a tensile strength of about 0.5 to 0.7 and an elongation of 25-45. The shrinkage rate of the third yarn may be lower relative to the first yarn and greater relative to the second yarn used to form the knitted component when subjected to heat or another stimulus. In other words, when subjected to a similar amount of heat (e.g., via steam), the third yarn may shrink relatively more than the second yarn and relatively less than the first yarn used to form the knitted component.
During or after the knitting process, a stimulus, such as heat, may be applied to at least a portion of, or to the entirety of the upper. This heat may be in the form of steam, such as by a steam-providing device, for example. One or more effects may result from the exposure of the knitted component to steam.
In one example, the steam may cause one or more of the yarns used to form the knitted component to shrink at different relative rates, thus forming the raised structure 128. For example, the steam may cause the first yarn (e.g. the relatively highly elastic E04 yarn) to shrink at a higher degree and/or rate than the second and third yarns used to form the knitted component. The third yarn (or P15 yarn), which is relatively less elastic than the first yarn but relatively more elastic than the second yarn, may also shrink in response to the steam heat stimulus, but less so than the first yarn. The second yarn (i.e. P16) which is a relatively inelastic yarn has relatively little or insignificant shrinkage in response to the steam heat stimulus.
In one non-limiting example relating to relative shrinkage rates, three different test swatches were knitted, each swatch knitted exclusively from one type of yarn. In this example, the test swatches were each knitted in a jacquard structure and then exposed to a steam heat stimulus. The first swatch was knitted entirely of the first yarn, or “E04” type yarn. The second swatch was knitted entirely of the second yarn, or “P16” type yarn. The third swatch was knitted entirely of the third yarn, of “P15” type yarn. After steaming, the shrinkage rates were as follows, with the percentage (%) representing the percentage of shrinkage of the width of the original swatch:
E04: Shrinkage in Wales 11%, Courses 11%.
P15: Shrinkage in Wales 9%, Courses 22%.
P16: Shrinkage in Wales 9%, Courses 11%.
In another example, the steam may also activate thermoplastic polymer materials in the third yarn. Once this heat is removed and the article cools, the thermoplastic material present in the third yarn (i.e. the one end of “fusible yarn” present in the third yarn) may at least partially fuse together with adjacent yarns in its proximity to within the knitted component. When the thermoplastic material transitions back to a solid state upon cooling, this may cause the fused yarns to remain fixed in (or at least have a tendency to remain fixed in) a desirable position and orientation. Heat-processing the fusible material of the fusible yarn may also enhance the rigidity, strength, and other mechanical properties of the knitted component at least in select locations.
As shown in
As shown in
Turning now to
Next, looking to
Looking specifically to
Looking to the first course 150, the first yarn (E04) is knit on the back needle bed only, while the front needle bed of the first course 150 remains empty. As shown, the first yarn is knit on every other needle of the back bed to form at least a portion of the first side 130, or inner surface of the knitted component. Using every other needle on the back bed (as opposed to all needles on the back bed) may help to avoid the first side 130 from becoming too rigid and/or brittle, and it may provide empty needles that can be utilized for other knit actions (e.g., knitting loops of the second and/or third yarns on the back needle bed to couple the second layer 156 to the first layer 154 (see
Next, looking to the second course 166 of
Next, looking to the third course 167 depicted in the knit diagram, the second yarn (P16) is knit on both the front and back needle beds. Specifically, as shown, the second yarn is knit on two needles, then skips two needles on the front bed. The second yarn is knit on every fifth needle on the back bed. By pulling the second yarn to the back bed to knit the second yarn on at least one needle at regular and space apart intervals (such as every fifth needle of the back needle bed as shown) the second yarn can be locked to the first side 130 or inner surface of the knitted component. As noted above, where the second yarn is present on the front needle bed, the third yarn (P15) is absent. As such, this results in the formation of raised structures 128 formed by the second yarn separated by the valleys 160 formed by the third yarn. Upon steaming or other application of heat, the second yarn knitted on the front needle bed (forming the second or outer surface) will warp, bulge, and/or buckle as the first yarn knitted on the back needle bed (forming the first or inner surface) shrinks. The shrinkage of the first yarn allows the raised structure 128 or ottoman to form and extend away from the first side 130 (inner surface).
Next, looking to the fourth course 170, the first yarn (E04) is again knit on every other needle of the back bed, while leaving the front needle bed empty. This is a repeat of the knitting pattern of the first course 150 described above. Knitting the fourth course 170 of the first yarn forms a portion of the first side 130 or inner surface of the knitted component. When the knitted component is subjected to a stimulus such as steam, the shrinkage of the first yarn of the fourth course 170 allows the second yarn of the third and/or sixth course to buckle or bulge outwardly, forming a raised structure 128 formed from the second yarn.
Next, looking to the fifth course 172, the third yarn (P15) is again knit on both the front and back needle beds. As shown, the third yarn is knit on two needles and then skips two needles on the front bed. On the back needle bed, the third yarn is knit on every fifth needle. The fifth course 172 of yarn forms at least part of the valley 160 located between the raised structure or ottoman formed by the second yarn of the third course 168 and the additional raised structure or ottoman formed by the second yarn of the next (or sixth) course 174 described below.
Next, looking to the sixth course 174, the second yarn (P16) is again knit on both the front and back needle beds. As shown, the second yarn is knit on two needles and then skips two needles on the front bed. On the back needle bed, the second yarn is knit on every fifth needle. By pulling the second yarn to the back bed at regular and space apart intervals (such as every fifth needle as shown) the second yarn can be locked to the first side 130 or inner surface of the knitted component. The sixth course 174 of yarn forms another raised structure 128 (or ottoman or welt) adjacent to the raised structure 128 (or ottoman or welt) formed by the third course 168 described above. The “valley” 160 formed by the third yarn of the fifth course 172 mentioned above is located on one side of the raised structure 128 formed by this sixth course 174.
Next, looking to the seventh course 176, the first yarn is again knit on every other needle of the back bed, while leaving the front needle bed empty. This is a repeat of the knitting pattern of the first course 150 and fourth course 170 described above. Knitting the seventh course 176 of the first yarn forms a portion of the first side 130 or inner surface of the knitted component. When the knitted component is subjected to a stimulus such as steam, the shrinkage of the first yarn of the seventh course 176 allows the second yarn of the sixth course 174 to buckle or bulge outwardly, forming a raised structure 128 formed from the second yarn knitted by the sixth course 174.
The knit sequence of
While the embodiments of the raised structure 128 and other features are described generally herein with reference to an upper 102 for an article of footwear, those features could additionally or alternatively be incorporated into another type of article. For example, knitted raised structures 128 may be included in articles of apparel (e.g., shirts, pants, socks, footwear, jackets and other outerwear, briefs and other undergarments, hats and other headwear), containers (e.g., backpacks, bags), and upholstery for furniture (e.g., chairs, couches, car seats).
In the present disclosure, the ranges given either in absolute terms or in approximate terms are intended to encompass both, and any definitions used herein are intended to be clarifying and not limiting. Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters setting forth the broad scope of the present embodiments are approximations, the numerical values set forth in the specific examples are reported as precisely as possible. Any numerical value, however, inherently contains certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective testing measurements. Moreover, all ranges disclosed herein are to be understood to encompass any and all subranges (including all fractional and whole values) subsumed therein.
Furthermore, the present disclosure encompasses any and all possible combinations of some or all of the various aspects described herein. It should also be understood that various changes and modifications to the aspects described herein will be apparent to those skilled in the art. Such changes and modifications can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the present disclosure and without diminishing its intended advantages. It is therefore intended that such changes and modifications be covered by the appended claims.
The present application is a continuation of Non-Provisional U.S. patent application Ser. No. 16/509,735, filed Jul. 12, 2019, which claims the benefit of the filing date under 35 U.S.C. § 119(e) of Provisional U.S. Patent Application Ser. No. 62/702,248, filed Jul. 23, 2018, the entirety of which is hereby incorporated by reference.
Number | Date | Country | |
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62702248 | Jul 2018 | US |
Number | Date | Country | |
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Parent | 16509735 | Jul 2019 | US |
Child | 17643681 | US |