Patent Application
20240197013
The present invention relates to the field of garment (or clothing item) making by knitting. More particularly, the invention relates to a collar of a knitted garment, for example a casual polo (usually referred to by the English expression “casual wear”) or a sports polo (for example a golf polo), and a method for manufacturing such a collar by knitting, this method allowing stabilising said collar when worn daily or for a moving activity.
The knitting technique for manufacturing textile items has been known for many years, and applies to quite various fields: clothing, medical items, filters, reinforcements for composite materials, etc.
Knitting may be practiced traditionally by hands, but knitting machines have nowadays invaded textile factories.
Knitting combines several techniques, comprising in particular the flechage knitting technique, also referred to as partial knitting. It consists in placing the needles of the knitting machine in standby on a portion of the cloth, at the level of one row, while the other needles are working, thereby allowing obtaining knits having different heights. The longer a needle is placed in standby, the shorter the height of this stitch column will be. Thus, it is possible to confer specific shapes on the knitted element, for example a curved shape, as disclosed in particular in the American patent application U.S. Pat. No. 3,293,662 A. This technique allows manufacturing by knitting only textiles having specific shapes, while eliminating a material cutting step. It also has the advantage of being economical and having a positive impact on the environment, thanks to the material saving and the waste reduction allowed by this method, thanks to the elimination of the material cutting step.
However, when applied to make a garment collar, for example a polo collar, this technique does not specifically allows ensuring a better hold of the collar when worn, neither does it allows ensuring a better fall of the latter when moving, in particular during a relatively intense sports movement.
A conventional knitting technique is ribbed knitting, which consists in regularly alternating stitches knitted at the front and others knitted at the back, over the same row. The stitches at the front confer volume, whereas those at the back are recessed. 1&1 ribbed knitting specifically refers to an alternation of one stitch at the front and one stitch at the back.
Another known knitting technique is the structured stitch knitting technique, which involves a knit bonding that is more rigid than 1&1 ribbing. Indeed, the ribs are known to the very elastic. Thus, the structured stitch allows conferring more rigidity and thickness on the textile compared to a more flexible rib which will fold much more easily. It also allows avoiding the expandable effect of the rib.
Nowadays, most garment collars are made in a jacket collar fashion, using a warp-and-weft type fabric. This technique involves the manufacture of several subassemblies which will form the collar, for example one strip for the collar and two strips for the collar stand.
Hence, this making technique has the drawback of being relatively long, in particular when it is desired to provide a quality collar that features a good hold and an adequate fall. Most collars have the disadvantage of rising easily when moving, and even in daily wear, thereby displeasingly uncovering the seam in the back. Besides, such a manufacturing process does not avoid material losses, in particular by textile section cutting to confer a specific final shape on the collar.
Thus, there is a need for a solution allowing, by one single knitting technique, proposing a garment collar, in particular a polo collar, which would feature a good hold in daily wear as well as during a more intense movement, for example when practicing a sports activity, and the process of manufacturing of which would be simplified and would allow reducing the costs and the environmental impact.
Thus, the Inventors of the present invention have succeeded in designing a knitted garment collar which comprises at least two distinct portions, a relatively flexible one and the other more rigid, this collar having a curved shape. For this purpose, they have developed a method for manufacturing such a collar which implements the flechage knitting technique and the structured stitch knitting technique.
For this purpose, the invention provides, according to a first object, a collar of a knitted garment, in particular a polo, comprising:
Hence, the invention is based on a quite novel and original approach of proposing a collar having at least two structurally distinct sections, made by two specific knitting techniques, in order to ensure a better wear of the collar on a daily basis as well as improved hold and replacement of this collar during larger or more intense movements, such as when practicing a sports activity. The first and second portions of the collar according to the invention are knitted according to the flechage knitting technique, which allows conferring a specific circle-arc final shape on the two outer longitudinal ends of the collar, and that being so without having to carry out a material cutting step, which systematically results in a material loss and therefore wastes. Indeed, this technique, which allows knitting sections of the collar while other sections are in standby, allows conferring shapes on the collar, in particular at the outer longitudinal ends, which collars could thus adopt a configuration other than rectilinear. In the case of the invention, it is particularly desired to obtain circle-arc shaped collar outer longitudinal ends. Hence, the design of such a collar is simplified and less expensive, since less material is used to obtain this curved shape. The manufacture of this collar also has the advantage of having a positive impact on the environment, since less wastes are produced and therefore discarded, these not being always easy to recycle. This flechage knitting technique also allows forming a collar whose dimensions are not uniform over the entire element. This means that this collar with its circle-arc shaped ends could have different heights over its length. Hence, the collar of the invention has a height at its centre that is larger than the height at its two ends. In particular, this enables the portion of the collar the farthest from the collar stand and which could fold at the neck along a longitudinal axis to be longer at its central portion than at its lateral outer ends. Advantageously, this feature allows for an optimum fall of the collar at the back, for a better hold in daily wear. Flechage knitting also allows manufacturing a collar which, when it is folded along the previously-described longitudinal fold axis, covers the seam present at the collar/garment junction, i.e. between the collar stand and the rest of the garment in the top portion of the back, which seam could be considered inelegant. Indeed, thanks to the curved shape of the outer longitudinal end of the first portion, the phenomenon of detachment of the edge of the collar is avoided, thereby avoiding revealing the backside seam.
The second portion of the collar according to the invention is also knitted by the structured stitch knitting technique, which, in turn, allows stiffening the element of the collar thus knitted. The collar of the invention has its collar stand portion designed in this manner. The combination of this rigid portion at the collar stand with the more flexible portion of the rest of the collar allows enhancing the improved hold of the collar for daily wear. This also enhances the advantage of an optimised replacement of the collar after a movement that is more intense than daily gestures, in particular when practicing a sports activity or a recreational activity which involves large movements.
According to one embodiment, the height H1 is comprised between 7 cm and 10 cm, preferably between 8,5 cm and 9,5 cm.
According to one embodiment, the height H2 is comprised between 5 cm and 8 cm, preferably between 6,5 cm and 7,5 cm.
These dimensions are suitable to design a collar according to the invention which entirely covers the seam at the collar/garment connection, once the collar is folded. A collar having these heights is also configured to ensure a good hold and an improved replacement, both in daily wear and when practicing a physical activity.
According to another embodiment, the collar according to the invention is made in one-piece.
Thus, the process of mounting thereof on the garment is facilitated and comprises a reduced number of steps compared to mounting collars according to the prior art.
According to still another embodiment, the second portion of the structured stitch collar extends over a height at its central portion comprised between 0,5 cm and 2,5 cm, preferably between 1 cm and 2 cm.
These height dimensions at the collar stand are enough for the collar according to the invention to feature improved hold and replacement.
According to another embodiment, the collar is made of cotton or of a synthetic material, and preferably made of cotton.
Thus, the collar according to the invention is designed with materials that are easily available, easy to handle and modulate and relatively inexpensive.
The invention also provides, according to a second object, a method for manufacturing such a collar, comprising:
This method allows designing a collar as defined before, and having all of the advantages of the invention.
According to one embodiment, the structured stitch knitting step is carried out according to a technique selected from among Milano knitting, Interlock knitting, double-face knitting, tubular knitting or ribbed/tubular combined knitting, said at least one structured stitch knitting step being preferably carried out according to the Milano knitting technique.
This particular technique enables the textile thus knitted to feature enough rigidity and thickness to properly ensure the function of the collar stand, yet without making this rigidity excessive, in order not to make mounting of the collar to the garment difficult.
A third object of the invention relates to a garment comprising a collar as defined before.
According to one embodiment, this garment is a polo.
Other aims, features and advantages of the invention will appear more clearly upon reading the following description, given merely as an illustrative and non-limiting example, with reference to the figures, wherein:
The general principle of the invention is based on the design of a garment collar implementing at least two knitting techniques, which collar thus has two distinct knitted sections. This combination of knitting techniques enables this innovative collar to have a better hold for daily wear, in comparison with the collars of the prior art, while also ensuring improved hold and replacement of the collar when practicing a sports activity, or to the very least when practicing an activity involving a more energetic gesture than daily gestures. Indeed, it is known that wearing a polo-type garment, comprising a foldable collar, generally has the drawback of its user having his/her collar easily unfolded, and in particular during intense movements, for example when practicing a sports activity such as golf, implying the player performing large gestures with the shoulders and the arms, and more generally with all of his/her body top. This non-optimum hold of the collar is also often associated with the disadvantage of uncovering the seam present at the collar/garment junction. Also, the collars of the prior art designed by one single knitting technique, including no flechage knitting, involve a material cutting step in the process of manufacturing thereof, in particular for collars having a non-rectilinear shape, for example a curved shape at their ends. This cutting step makes the common process of manufacturing the collars more complex and more expensive, implying a greater material use than actually necessary to obtain the final collar, as well as the generation of wastes, which could be avoided.
Hence, the Inventors of the present invention propose a collar as illustrated in
However, it should be noted that the collar according to the invention could be suited to garments other than golf polos for men, and could in particular be used for polos adapted for practicing other sports, and even polos for recreation activities or for daily wear. This collar according to the invention may also be configured for polos intended for women and children. It may also be integrated on garments other than polos.
Hence, this collar 11 is a collar that folds on itself along a longitudinal fold axis, located in the flexible upper portion of the collar, unlike so-called mao collars for example. These are rather used on jacket-type garments. They are small, upstanding, straight and short, and do not have flaps to fold.
Such a collar 11 according to the invention may be made of cotton or of a synthetic material, or of any other material suited for garment making. Cotton is a preferred material since many advantageous characteristics are associated therewith. Indeed, this is a material that has some insulating capability, and is soft, comfortable and flexible. It is also hypoallergenic and enables skin breathing. This is a material that absorbs dyes easily, thereby allowing offering garments with quite various colours. It is also easy to maintain and generally inexpensive. However, there are several cotton types, whose costs could vary, thereby affecting the price of the final garment. This collar 11 according to the invention is particular in that it has both external longitudinal ends thereof curve shaped, and this feature is obtained by a manufacturing method that does not advantageously comprise any material cutting step, but which involves the implementation of the flechage knitting technique; Indeed, this technique advantageously allows conferring shapes other than rectilinear on the knitted textile elements, and that being so directly through the knitting process itself.
Thus, the collar according to the invention is illustrated, when it is still not integrated to the final garment, in
The collar 11 also has a second section 32, knitted in structured stitches. These two sections are also knitted by the flechage knitting technique. The method for manufacturing a collar combining these techniques, and in particular structured stitch knitting and flechage knitting, may be executed on a knitting machine, for example such as those equipping textile factories. In general, such a knitting machine corresponds to a standard knitting machine, which comprises for example specific options to be able to implement these two knitting techniques according to the invention successively. For example, such a knitting machine may be controlled by a computer program, comprising instructions to implement the flechage knitting technique when desired, and also to implement the structured stitch knitting technique when desired. The knitting method according to the invention could probably also be implemented entirely by hand, without using a knitting machine.
As explained hereinbefore, the flechage knitting technique for making a collar according to the invention allows modulating the outer ends of the collar according to a circle arc shape, in particular the outer end 312 of the first section 31 and the outer end 314 of the second section 32. According to the particular embodiment of a collar for a golf polo for men, these two ends are symmetrical and are convex. Thus, the central portion of the collar 11 logically has a height H1 different from the height H2, which corresponds to the two lateral ends 313 of the entire collar. In particular, H1 is larger than H2. According to this embodiment, the height H1 amounts to 9 cm and the height H2 amounts to 7 cm. However, these values are not fixed for the collar of the invention, and could vary depending on several parameters: the garment type (such as a polo), the user type (man, woman, child) and the size of the user, the activity type associated with the garment (for example a sports polo, such as a golf polo, or a casual wear polo). Thus, more generally, the height H1 for a collar according to the invention is comprised between 7 cm and 10 cm, preferably between 8,5 cm and 9,5 cm, and the height H2 is comprised between 5 cm and 8 cm, preferably between 6,5 cm and 7,5 cm.
The section 31 is knitted by 1&1 ribbing, which is a conventional knitting method consisting in regularly alternating stitches knitted at the front and others knitted at the back over the same row. As seen before, this section 31 involves the flechage knitting technique on these 1&1 rib points, in order to confer a specific final shape on the outer longitudinal end 312 of this section 31, in particular a curved shape. Thus, thanks to its 1&1 rib points, this section 31 is relatively expandable. In contrast, the structured stitch of the section 32 confers stiffness and thickness on that element. Thus, this section 32 features a greater rigidity than the flexible upper section 31. This structured stitch section 32 is also thicker than the section 31. It is located at the collar stand, which is a strategic location to ensure an adequate hold of the collar. The structured stitch knitting may consist of Milano knitting, Interlock knitting, double-face knitting, tubular knitting or ribbed/tubular combined knitting. In this embodiment, the section 32 is Milano knitted, which has the advantage of conferring enough rigidity and thickness on the textile to properly ensure the function of the collar stand, yet without making this rigidity excessive, which could then make mounting of the collar to the garment difficult.
This section 32 is also knitted by flechage knitting, allowing conferring a curved shape on the outer longitudinal end 314 of this section.
This section 32 extends, at its central portion, over a 1 cm height for this embodiment (golf polo collar for men). But this height is more generally comprised between 0.5 cm and 2 cm, and preferably between 1 cm and 2 cm, with regards to the different parameters applicable to the invention, such as mentioned hereinbefore.
This collar 11 according to the invention also comprises a longitudinal fold axis 33, which is adapted so that the portion of the flexible section 31 located above this axis folds along the latter to cover the portion of the section 31 located below this axis and the section 32. This axis follows the curvature of the outer end 312 of the first section 31. The central height H1 of the collar being larger than the height H2 of its lateral ends 313, the section 31 thus folded allows hiding the seam that connects the collar to the rest of the polo, and which is often considered inelegant.
Hence, the combination of the sections 31 and 32 for the collar 11 according to the invention allows obtaining a collar that advantageously features an improved hold for daily wear, such as for casual wear, and also allows for optimised hold and replacement of the collar when the latter might be displaced by daily wear or by a more intense activity, such as a sports activity, like golf swing.
A back view of the collar 11 according to the invention, integrated to a polo 12, is illustrated in
In comparison, a collar of the prior art 51 is illustrated in
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR2213382 | Dec 2022 | FR | national |
