The present disclosure relates to a leno jacquard weave shoe upper having selective stretchability in specific areas and a shoe including the same.
Generally, shoes include a sole which is a part that touches a ground, and a shoe upper which is combined with the sole and surrounds a foot of a wearer.
In order to improve the manufacturing convenience and manufacturing efficiency of such shoes, the shoe upper may be woven as an integral piece. Details regarding the shoe upper as integrally woven are described in Korea Patent No. 10-1437472 (Aug. 28, 2014). In addition, a heterogeneous weave fabric weaving loom and a shoe upper and shoe woven using the loom are described in Korea Patent No. 10-1557130 (Sep. 24, 2015) in detail.
In the shoe upper included in the shoe, it is necessary to provide stretchability to specific areas that require selective stretching considering protection of a foot and characteristics of a foot movement, for example, only an ankle and a toe, and it is not necessary to provide stretchability to an instep of a foot.
The present disclosure relates to a leno-jacquard fabric woven by a heterogeneous weave fabric weaving loom or a shoe upper including the same, and an object thereof is to provide a shoe upper and a shoe including the same capable of being integrally manufactured while providing stretchability to specific areas that require selective stretching considering protection of a foot and characteristics of a foot movement, for example, only an ankle and a toe and not providing stretchability to an instep of a foot, and providing a comfortable shoe fit while having an original purpose of protecting the foot and more convenient functions when putting on and taking off the shoe.
According to an aspect of the present disclosure, there is provided a shoe upper including a stretchable area and a non-stretchable area, in which the shoe upper is woven by combining a warp yarn and a weft yarn, the weft yarn includes a first weft yarn, which is a stretchable yarn, and a second weft yarn, which is a normal yarn, the first and second weft yarns being alternately arranged next to each other, in the stretchable area and the non-stretchable area, the shoe upper is woven with a plain weave in which the first weft yarn and the second weft yarn each are combined to the warp yarn, and the number of weave points of the warp yarn and the second weft yarn is larger in the non-stretchable area than in the stretchable area.
According to another aspect of the present disclosure, there is provided a shoe upper including a stretchable area and a non-stretchable area, in which the shoe upper is woven by combining a warp yarn and a weft yarn, the weft yarn includes a first weft yarn, which is a stretchable yarn, and a second weft yarn, which is a normal yarn, the first and second weft yarns being alternately arranged next to each other, in the non-stretchable area, the shoe upper is woven with a plain weave in which the first weft yarn and the second weft yarn each are combined to the warp yarn, in the stretchable area, the warp yarn includes a first warp yarn and a second warp yarn, the first warp yarn and the second warp yarn being twisted while crossing in direction opposite to each other to form an opening, and in the stretchable area, the shoe upper is woven with a leno fabric in which the first weft yarn and the second weft yarn are combined while penetrating the opening.
The shoe upper according to the present disclosure includes the stretchable area and the non-stretchable area, and thus, it is possible to greatly improve the manufacturing process efficiency of the shoe upper by the leno-jacquard weave woven by a heterogeneous weave fabric weaving loom.
The shoe upper according to the present disclosure includes the stretchable area and the non-stretchable area, and thus, it is possible to provide a comfortable shoe fit while providing an original purpose of protecting the foot and more convenient functions when putting on and taking off the shoe.
Hereinafter, embodiments of the present disclosure will be described in detail with reference to the attached drawings.
In the present disclosure, a fabric is largely divided into a plain weave and a twisted weave.
In the present specification, the plain weave refers to a fabric made up of a warp yarn and a weft yarn perpendicularly crossing each other, and for example, a three-way weave represented by a plain weave, a twill weave, and a satin weave corresponds to this.
In the present specification, the twisted weave refers to a fabric in which the weft yarns are formed side by side, but the warp yarns are twisted by switching positions at regular intervals. For example, a leno weave in which a pair of two warp yarns is twisted while crossing each other centered on the weft yarn to form an opening and which is woven so that the weft yarn penetrates the opening corresponds to the twisted weave. In the case of the leno weave in the present specification, in the pair of two warp yarns, a first warp yarn always passes through a lower portion of the weft yarn, and a second warp yarn always passes through the upper portion of the weft yarn.
Meanwhile, generally, a warp yarn is inserted into a healed eye positioned at the center of a heald so that the warp yarn can pass through, the warp yarn passes through the healed eye, then, the warp yarn is raised and lowered by a vertical movement of the heald to form an opening between neighboring warp yarns, the weft yarn is inserted into the opening, and thus, a fabric is woven. According to a type of an opening device, the fabric can be divided into a dobby fabric in which a simple weave or a small pattern can be woven, and a jacquard fabric in which a large or complex pattern can be woven.
The dobby fabric is woven using a dobby device when a relatively small pattern is to be displayed on the fabric. Depending on the pattern, for example, a plurality of healds are respectively fixed to 20 to 40 heald frame and move up and down together, the heald movement is controlled to form the opening between the warp yarns, the weft yarn is inserted into the formed opening, and thus, the dobby fabric is woven.
In the jacquard fabric, each warp yarn is controlled by an independent heald, the heald is not fixed to the heald frame, but each heald moves up and down independently, the heald movement is controlled to form an opening between the warp yarns, the weft is inserted into the formed opening, and the fabric is woven. The jacquard fabric is woven by a jacquard loom.
In the present disclosure, a fabric or a shoe upper including a plain weave and a twisted weave can be continuously woven in a single process by a heterogeneous weave fabric weaving loom including a jacquard heald and a leno heald.
Referring to
In this way, the fabric woven in a single process by the heterogeneous weave fabric weaving loom including the jacquard heald and leno heald is called leno-jacquard fabric in the present disclosure. Therefore, the leno-jacquard fabric according to the present disclosure may include a heterogeneous weave having the plain weave and the leno weave, only the plain weave, or only the leno weave.
Referring to
The weft yarn 140 includes a first weft yarn 141 which is a stretchable yarn and a second weft yarn 142 which is a normal yarn, and the first weft yarn 141 and the second weft yarn 142 are arranged alternately adjacent to each other. As the stretchable yarn constituting the first weft yarn 141, for example, polyurethane stretchable yarn may be used, and as the normal yarn constituting the second weft yarn 142, for example, a normal polyester false twist yarn or a polyester regenerated yarn can be used, but the present disclosure is not limited to this.
The shoe upper 100 is woven with a plain weave in which the first weft yarn 141 and the second weft yarn 142 are combined to the warp yarn 130 in the stretchable area 110 and the non-stretchable area 120, respectively.
Here, the shoe upper is woven so that the number of the weave points of the warp yarn 130 and the second weft yarn 142 is larger in the non-stretchable area 120 than in the stretchable area 110.
In the present disclosure, the number of weave point value is a value that represents a degree to which a warp yarn and a weft yarn cross each other and participate in the weave in a fabric weave on a certain plane. When the fabric is viewed from a plane, the number of weave points is a number expressed when the warp yarn and the weft yarn cross each other in the fabric weave, with the numerator written as 1 and the number of warp yarns in the repeating unit forming the fabric weave written in the denominator. For example, in the case of the plain weave, since the number of warp yarns (1 up 1 down) in the repeating unit that constitutes the weave is 2, the weave point value of the plain weave is 1/2, and the plain weave has the largest weave point value and is the strongest. In addition, in the case of a four-twill weave with a four-piece weave having three up and one down, the number of weave points is 1/4, and in the case of an eight-twill weave with an eight-piece weave having seven up and one down structure, the number of weave points is 1/8. Therefore, a small number of weave points value means that the weave of the fabric is loosely woven, and a large number of weave points means that the weave of the fabric is tightly woven.
Additionally, unless otherwise specified in the present disclosure, a surface of the shoe upper refers to one surface of the shoe upper that is exposed to the outside of the shoe, and a rear surface of the shoe upper refers to the other surface of the shoe upper that goes inside the shoe and is not exposed to the outside of the shoe.
Looking at the number of weave point values of the warp yarn 130 and the second weft yarn 142 with reference to
In this way, when a stretching weft yarn having stretchability and a normal weft yarn without stretchability are alternately arranged and combined with the warp yarn and woven, the stretchability is reduced when the weave of the fabric is made dense.
In one embodiment of the present disclosure, the first weft yarn 141 which is a stretchable yarn and the second weft yarn 142 which is a normal yarn are alternately arranged adjacent to each other to be combined with warp yarn, the combined weave of the first weft yarn 142 which is the stretchable yarn and the warp yarn is woven to be same in the stretchable area 110 and the non-stretchable area 120, and the combined weave of the second weft yarn 142 which is the normal yarn and the warp yarn is woven to be denser in the non-stretchable area 120 than in the stretchable area 110.
Accordingly, in the densely woven non-stretchable area 120, although the first weft yarn 141 which is the stretchable yarn participates in the combining of the fabric, the second weft yarn 142 which is a normal yarn densely participates in the combining, thereby reducing stretchability.
Meanwhile, in the stretchable area 110, sine the second weft yarn 142 which is the normal yarn participates in the combining relatively sparsely, the stretchability of the fabric by the first weft yarn 141 which is the stretchable yarn can be maintained.
Referring to
The weft yarn 240 includes a first weft yarn 241 which is a stretchable yarn and a second weft yarn 242 which is a normal yarn, the first weft yarn and the second weft yarn are arranged alternately adjacent to each other. The first weft yarn 241 and the second weft yarn 242 are the same as those described with reference to
The shoe upper 200 is woven with a plain weave in which the first weft yarn 241 and the second weft yarn 242 are combined to a warp yarn 230 in the non-stretchable area 220, respectively.
Meanwhile, in the stretchable area 210, the warp yarn 230 includes the first warp yarn 231 and the second warp yarn 232, and the first warp yarn 231 and the second warp yarn 232 are twisted while crossing each other in directions opposite to each other to form an opening H. Here, the shoe upper 200 is woven with a leno weave in which the first weft yarn 241 and the second weft yarn 242 are combined while penetrating the opening.
According to this configuration, the combined weave of the non-stretchable area 220 is configured densely with the plain weave, which reduces stretchability, the combined weave of the stretchable area 210 is configured to sparsely with the leno weave, and thus, the stretchability of the fabric by the first weft yarn 241 which is the stretchable yarn can be maintained.
Since the stretchable area 210 is configured of the leno weave, that is, the first warp yarn 231 and the second warp yarn 232 are twisted in directions opposite to each other to wrap and fix the weft yarn, even when the stretchable area 210 extends and contracts, the shape of the shoe upper can be firmly maintained without slippage or twisting of the weave.
Referring to
In
In
According this configuration, non-stretchable areas 320 and 420 are densely configured by the second weft yarns 342 and 442 of which the combined weave is the normal yarn, and in the stretchable areas 310 and 410, since only the first weft yarns 341 and 441 which are stretchable yarns are combined with the warp yarn, and thus, the stretchability of the fabric can be maximized by the first weft yarns 341 and 441 which are stretchable yarns.
In a shoe upper according to another embodiment of the present disclosure, the length of the second weft yarn separating from the rear surface of the shoe upper in the stretchable area is equal to or longer than the length of the first weft yarn when the first weft yarn stretches to its maximum extent.
Referring to
Referring to
In
In
According to this configuration, non-stretchable areas 520 and 620 are densely configured by the second weft yarns 542 and 642 of which the combined weave is the normal yarn, and in the stretchable areas 310 and 410, since only the first weft yarns 541 and 641 which are stretchable yarns are combined with the warp yarn and the second yarns 542 and 642 which are the normal yarns are cut, and thus, the stretchability of the fabric can be maximized by the first weft yarns 341 and 441 which are stretchable yarns.
Referring to
Described in more detail with reference to
Referring to
Described in more detail with reference to
The shoe upper 800 can be continuously woven in a single process by the heterogeneous weave fabric weaving loom including the leno heald and the jacquard heald, not only when the shoe upper is configured of only the plain weave, but also when the shoe upper is configured to a heterogeneous weave of the plain weave and the leno weave.
In a shoe upper according to another embodiment of the present disclosure, the warp yarn is configured of a heat fusion yarn.
As the warp yarn is configured of the heat fusion yarn, in an area of the shoe upper woven with the plain weave, the warp yarn is fused with the weft yarn by heat, and in an area of the shoe upper woven with the leno weave of the shoe upper, the warp yarn is fused with the weft yarn by heat, and the first warp yarn and the second warp yarn twisted in directions opposite to each other can be fused to each other by heat.
The warp yarn configured of the heat fusion yarn in a non-stretchable area is fused by heat not only to the first weft yarn, which is the stretchable yarn, but also to the second weft yarn, which is the normal yarn, and thus, it is possible to increase effect of reducing stretchability.
Meanwhile, the warp yarn configured of heat fusion yarn in the stretchable area is fused by heat to the first weft yarn which is a stretchable yarn, and thus, even though the second weft yarn which is a normal yarn participates sparsely in the weaving, it is possible to firmly fix the woven weave and prevent slippage or twisting of the weave.
In addition, even when the second weft yarn which is a normal yarn is cut, the remaining second weft yarn is fused to the warp yarn by heat, thereby preventing unraveling, slippage, or twisting of the second weft yarn.
According to another embodiment of the present disclosure may, it is possible to provide a shoe manufactured with the shoe upper in accordance with the present disclosure.
Thereafter, various embodiments of the present disclosure will be described.
Number | Date | Country | Kind |
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10-2022-0021920 | Feb 2022 | KR | national |
Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
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PCT/KR2022/020080 | 12/10/2022 | WO |