Patent Application
20190015315
It is well known that prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation, such as from the sun, can lead to the formation of light dermatoses and erythemas, and increase the risk of skin cancers, such as melanoma. Exposure to UV radiation also accelerates skin aging, such as loss of skin elasticity and wrinkling.
For these reasons, sunscreen compositions are commonly used to provide protection from the sun, and a variety of sunscreen compositions are commercially available. Unfortunately, most have a heavy, oily aesthetic because high levels of oil are required to carry the load of UV filters needed to achieve an acceptable SPF. The heavy, oily feel can be unpleasant and discourage users from applying enough product to provide good protection from the sun. It would therefore be desirable to provide a sunscreen composition having both an excellent SPF and a light, watery, pleasant aesthetic.
It has now been discovered that a sunscreen composition having a watery break on topical application may be prepared using a combination of a hydrophobically modified polyurethane, a taurate copolymer, and glyceryl stearate.
The present invention provides a sunscreen composition comprising: (a) at least about 10 weight percent of one or more UV filters; (b) about 0.55 to about 0.75 weight percent of a hydrophobically modified polyurethane; (c) about 0.4 to about 0.6 weight percent of a taurate copolymer; and (d) at least about 0.1 weight percent of glyceryl stearate.
The invention further provides a sunscreen composition comprising at least about 10 weight percent of one or more UV filters and having a linear complex viscosity of 2000 to 5000 cP at 100 rad/s.
The invention also provides a sunscreen composition comprising:
(a) at least about 10 weight percent of a combination of UV filters comprising avobenzone, octocrylene, homosalate, and octisalate;
(b) about 0.55 to about 0.75 weight percent of a hydrophobically modified polyurethane;
(c) about 0.4 to about 0.6 weight percent of a taurate copolymer; and
(d) at least about 0.1 weight percent of glyceryl stearate;
(e) silica;
(f) a humectant selected from the group consisting of glycerin, pentylene glycol, and mixtures thereof; and
(g) ethanol.
Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which the invention belongs. All publications, patent applications, patents, and other references mentioned herein are incorporated by reference.
As used herein, “topically applying” means directly laying on or spreading on outer skin or the scalp, e.g., by use of the hands or an applicator such as a wipe, roller, or spray.
As used herein, “cosmetic” refers to a beautifying substance or preparation which preserves, restores, bestows, simulates, or enhances the appearance of bodily beauty or appears to enhance the beauty or youthfulness, specifically as it relates to the appearance of tissue or skin.
As used herein, “cosmetically effective amount” means an amount of a physiologically active compound or composition sufficient for treating one or more conditions, but low enough to avoid serious side effects. The cosmetically effective amount of the compound or composition will vary with the condition being treated, the age and physical condition of the end user, the severity of the condition being treated/prevented, the duration of the treatment, the nature of other treatments, the specific compound or product/composition employed, the cosmetically-acceptable carrier utilized, and like factors.
As used herein, “cosmetically acceptable” means that the ingredients the term describes are suitable for use in contact with tissues (e.g., the skin) without undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, irritation, allergic response, or the like.
As used herein, a “cosmetically acceptable active agent” is a compound (synthetic or natural) that has a cosmetic or therapeutic effect on the skin.
As used herein, “treatment or treating” refers to mitigating, reducing, preventing, improving, or eliminating the presence or signs of a condition or disorder.
As used herein, “phase-stable” means the water and oil phases of an emulsion do not appreciably separate at room temperature for at least two weeks.
Unless otherwise indicated, a percentage or concentration refers to a percentage or concentration by weight (i.e., % (W/W). Unless stated otherwise, all ranges are inclusive of the endpoints, e.g., “from 4 to 9” includes the endpoints 4 and 9.
The sunscreen composition comprises at least about 10 weight percent of one or more UV filters. In one embodiment, the composition comprises at least about 15 to about 35 weight percent of one or more UV filters.
As used herein, “UV filter” is a material or compound, polymeric or non-polymeric, that absorbs, scatters or reflects radiation in some portion of the ultraviolet spectrum (290 nm-400 nm), such as one having an extinction coefficient of at least about 1000 mol−1 cm−1 for at least one wavelength within the ultraviolet spectrum. SPF values disclosed and claimed herein are determined using the in-vitro method described herein below.
The UV filters may be “organic” UV filters. Organic UV filters, often referred to as “monomeric, organic UV-absorbers” are generally aromatic compounds conjugated with a carbonyl moiety substituted in the ortho- or para-position of the aromatic ring.
Traditional organic UV filters are aromatic, small molecules, with molecular weight values <900 g/mol. Examples of organic non-polymeric UV filters include, but are not limited to: methoxycinnamate derivatives such as octyl methoxycinnamate and isoamyl methoxycinnamate; camphor derivatives such as 4-methyl benzylidene camphor, camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, ecamsule (Mexoryl® SX); terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, and terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid; salicylate derivatives such as octyl salicylate, trolamine salicylate, ethylhexyl salicylate and homosalate; sulfonic acid derivatives such as phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid; benzone derivatives such as dioxybenzone, sulisobenzone, and oxybenzone; benzoic acid derivatives such as aminobenzoic acid and octyldimethyl para-amino benzoic acid; octocrylene and other β,β-diphenylacrylates; dioctyl butamido triazone; octyl triazone; avobenzone (butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane);
drometrizole trisiloxane; menthyl anthranilate; triazone derivatives such as ethylhexyl triazone (Uvinul® T150); diethylhexyl butamido triazone (UVASorb® HEB); bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (Tinosorb® S), benzoate derivatives such as diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (Uvinul® A Plus), benzotriazole derivatives such as drometrizole trisiloxane (Mexoryl® XL), methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol; tris-biphenyl triazine; (2-{4-[2-(4-Diethylamino-2-hydroxy-benzoyl)-benzoyl]-piperazine-1-carbonyl}-phenyl)-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxy-phenyl)-methanone; merocyanine derivatives; bis(butylbenzoate) diaminotriazine aminopropylsiloxane; and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, encapsulated in a polymer matrix.
In certain embodiments of the invention, the sunscreen composition comprises one or more UV filters selected from Table 1.
The organic UV filter may alternatively be a polymer made of organic chromophores attached to a polysiloxane chain having for example an average molecular weight of >6000 daltons. Examples of such polysiloxanes compounds include, without limitation to, Parsol® SLX and polysilicone-15. These polysiloxanes absorb in the UVB (λmax=312 nm) part of the spectrum and are typically combined with UVA filters to achieve broad-spectrum protection.
Alternatively, the UV filter may be a UV blocker. UV blockers reflect, absorb or scatter the UV radiation and if present in sunscreen compositions, can reflect all the ultraviolet, visible and infrared rays that enhance sun protection. UV blockers are typically inorganic metallic oxides, including titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and certain other transition metal oxides. Such UV blockers are typically solid particles in a micronized or nanonized form having a diameter from about 0.01 micron to about 10 microns.
In one embodiment of the present invention, the sunscreen composition comprises avobenzone.
In another embodiment, the sunscreen composition comprises a combination of UV filters comprising avobenzone, octocrylene, homosalate, and octisalate.
The SPF of the sunscreen composition may be determined using the USA FDA Final Rule test method, No. FDA 1978-N-0018, known to those skilled in the sunscreen art. In one embodiment, the sunscreen composition has an SPF of at least about 15. In another embodiment, the sunscreen composition has an SPF of at least about 25.
The total amount of UV filters in the sunscreen composition is at least about 10 weight percent. In one embodiment, the total amount of UV filters in the sunscreen composition is at least about 15 weight percent.
The sunscreen composition also contains about 0.55 to about 0.75 weight percent of a hydrophobically modified polyurethane.
In one embodiment, the hydrophobically modified polyurethane is polyurethane-62. Polyurethane-62 is commercially available as AVALURE™ Flex-6 Polymer, a solution of polyurethane-62 in trideceth-6, from Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc., Cleveland, Ohio.
The composition also contains about 0.4 to about 0.6 weight percent of a taurate copolymer.
In one embodiment, the taurate copolymer is an acryloyldimethyltaurate/vinylpyrrolidine crosspolymer.
In one embodiment, the taurate copolymer is a sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vinylpyrrolidine crosspolymer. Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vinylpyrrolidine crosspolymer is commercially available for example as ARISTOFLEX® AVS from Clariant.
The composition further comprises at least about 0.1 weight percent of glyceryl stearate. In one embodiment, the composition comprises at least about 0.3 weight percent of glyceryl stearate.
Glyceryl Stearate is a known emulsifier. It is commercially available, for example, as Cutina® GMS V from BASF.
The sunscreen composition can be used by topically applying to a mammal, e.g., by the direct laying on, wiping or spreading of the composition on the skin, hair, or nails of a mammal, particularly a human.
The sunscreen composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion containing a continuous water phase and a discontinuous oil phase dispersed within the continuous water phase.
The sunscreen composition may be prepared using mixing and blending methodology well known in the sunscreen and cosmetic art. In one embodiment, the sunscreen composition is produced by preparing an oil phase by mixing the UV filters with optional oil soluble or oil-miscible ingredients; and preparing a water phase, by mixing water and optional water-soluble or water-miscible ingredients. The oil phase and the water phase may then be mixed in a manner sufficient to disperse the oil phase substantially homogeneously in the water phase such that the water phase is continuous and the oil phase discontinuous.
In certain embodiments, the oil-in water emulsion is phase stable.
In certain embodiments, the UV filter is dissolved, as opposed to being dispersed or suspended, within the oil phase. Suitable solvents for the UV filters include dicaprylyl carbonate available as CETIOL CC from Cognis Corporation of Ambler, Pa.
The oil phase may be such that it is present in discrete droplets or units having an average diameter of about one micron to about 1000 microns, such as from about 1 micron to about 100 microns.
The percentage by weight of water phase included in the compositions may range from about 45% to about 90%, such as from about 55% to about 80%, such as from about 60% to about 80%. The percentage by weight of water in the water phase may be about 90% or more, such as about 95% or more.
In certain embodiments, the percentage by weight of oil phase in the composition is from about 10% to about 55%, such as from about 20% to about 45%, such as from about 20% to about 40%.
In certain embodiment, the oil phase consists essentially of the UV filter. In certain embodiments, the oil phase contains about 60% or more by weight of the UV filter, such as greater than 75% by weight of the UV filter, such as greater than 90% by weight of the UV filter, such as greater than 97% by weight of the UV filter, such as greater than 99% by weight of the UV filter.
The composition may be combined with a “cosmetically-acceptable topical carrier,” i.e., a carrier for topical use that capable of containing the other ingredients dispersed or dissolved therein, and possessing acceptable properties rendering it safe to use topically.
The composition may optionally comprise a wide variety of additional oil-soluble materials and/or water-soluble materials conventionally used in compositions for use on skin, at their art-established levels. For example, surfactants, pearlescent or opacifying agents, thickeners, emollients, conditioners, humectants, chelating agents, exfoliants, and additives that enhance the appearance, feel, or fragrance of the cleansing composition, such as colorants, fragrances, preservatives, pH adjusting agents, and the like, can be included.
Water soluble or water dispersible polymers may be added to the compositions. The water dispersible polymers are comprised of a water-insoluble polymer that is typically micronized and dispersed into a water carrier, possibly with the use of a surface active dispersing aid. The water dispersible polymers are capable of forming a film and improving water resistance of the compositions. Examples of water soluble polymers include Polyaldo® 10-1-L (Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate), available from Lonza. Examples of water dispersible polymers include water dispersible polyurethanes, such as Baycusan® C.1000 (Polyurethane-34), available from Bayer, Dow Corning® 2501 (Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane), available from Dow Corning, Eastman AQTM 38S (Polyester-5), available from Eastman Chemical, and Intelimer® 8600 (C8-22 Alkyl Acrylates/Methacrylic Acid Crosspolymer) available from Air Products.
The sunscreen composition may also comprise a film former. Film formers are typically hydrophobic materials that impart film forming and/or waterproofing characteristics. One such agent is polyethylene, which is available from New Phase Technologies as Performalene® 400, a polyethylene having a molecular weight of 400. Another suitable film former is polyethylene 2000 (molecular weight of 2000), which is available from New Phase Technologies as Performalene®. Another suitable film former is synthetic wax, also available from New Phase Technologies as Performa® V-825. Other typical film-formers include acrylates/acrylamide copolymer, acrylates copolymer, acrylates/C12-C22 alkylmethacrylate copolymer, polyethylene, waxes, VP/dimethiconylacrylate/polycarbamylpolyglycol ester, butylated PVP, PVP/hexadecene copolymer, octadecene/MA copolymer, PVP/eicosene copolymer, tricontanyl PVP, Brassica Campestris/Aleuritis Fordi Oil copolymer, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane (and) trimethylsiloxysilicate, Dimethicone; Acrylates/Dimethicone Copolymer and mixtures thereof. In some cases, the film former is acrylates/C12-C22 alkylmethacrylate copolymer sold under the tradename Allianz™ OPT by Ashland.
Suitable emollients include mineral oils, petrolatum, vegetable oils (e.g.
triglycerides such as caprylic/capric triglyceride), waxes and other mixtures of fatty esters, including but not limited to esters of glycerol (e.g, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl adipate, dicaprylyl carbonate), and silicone oils such as dimethicone. In certain embodiments, mixtures of triglycerides (e.g. caprylic/capric triclycerides) and esters of glycols (e.g. isopropyl myristate) may be used to solubilize the UV filters. In other embodiments of the invention, the compositions are essentially free of, or free of, emollients.
Examples of suitable solvents include propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, glycerol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, sorbitol esters, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, ethanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the sunscreen composition comprises ethanol.
In certain embodiments, the composition includes a pigment suitable for providing color or hiding power. The pigment may be one suitable for use in a color cosmetic product, including compositions for application to the hair, nails and/or skin, especially the face. Color cosmetic compositions include, but are not limited to, foundations, concealers, primers, blush, mascara, eyeshadow, eyeliner, lipstick, nail polish and tinted moisturizers. The pigment suitable for providing color or hiding power may be composed of iron oxides, including red and yellow iron oxides, titanium dioxide, ultramarine and chromium or chromium hydroxide colors, and mixtures thereof. The pigment may be a lake pigment, e.g. an organic dye such as azo, indigoid, triphenylmethane, anthraquinone, and xanthine dyes that are designated as D&C and FD&C blues, browns, greens, oranges, reds, yellows, etc., precipitated onto inert binders such as insoluble salts. Examples of lake pigments include Red #6, Red #7, Yellow #5, Violet #2 and Blue #1. The pigment may be an interference pigment.
Examples of interference pigments include those containing mica substrates, bismuth oxycloride substrates, and silica substrates, for instance mica/bismuth oxychloride/iron oxide pigments commercially available as CHROMALITE pigments (BASF), titanium dioxide and/or iron oxides coated onto mica such as commercially available FLAMENCO pigments (BASF), mica/titanium dioxide/iron oxide pigments including commercially available KTZ pigments (Kobo products), CELLINI pearl pigments (BASF), and borosilicate-containing pigments such as REFLECKS pigments (BASF).
In certain embodiments, the sunscreen composition may include one or more compounds suitable for enhancing the photostability of the UV filters of other ingredients in the composition. Photostabilizers include, for example, diesters or polyesters of a naphthalene dicarboxylic acid.
In one embodiment, the sunscreen composition comprises a humectant. Examples of humectants include, without limitation to, glycerin, pentylene glycol, butylene glycol. In another embodiment, the sunscreen composition comprises at least about 3 weight percent glycerin. The sunscreen composition may comprise for example at least about 3.5 weight percent glycerin. The sunscreen composition may comprise at least about 5 weight percent glycerin.
In one embodiment, the sunscreen composition comprises a humectant selected from the group consisting of glycerin, pentylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
In another embodiment, the sunscreen composition has a pH of about 5 to about 6. The sunscreen composition may have a pH of about 5.5.
In a further embodiment, the sunscreen composition comprises hyaluronic acid. In another embodiment, the sunscreen composition comprises at least 0.01 weight percent hyaluronic acid.
The composition may comprise one or more other cosmetically acceptable active agents include for example anti-acne agents, shine control agents, anti-microbial agents, anti-inflammatory agents, anti-mycotic agents, anti-parasite agents, external analgesics, sunscreens, photoprotectors, antioxidants, keratolytic agents, surfactants, moisturizers, nutrients, vitamins, energy enhancers, anti-perspiration agents, astringents, deodorants, firming agents, anti-callous agents, and agents for skin conditioning.
The amount of other cosmetically active agent in may range from about 0.001% to about 20% by weight of the composition, e.g., about 0.005% to about 10% by weight of the composition, such as about 0.01% to about 5% by weight of the composition.
The cosmetically acceptable active agent may be selected for instance from, benzoyl peroxide, D-panthenol carotenoids, ceramides, polyunsaturated fatty acids, essential fatty acids, enzymes such as laccase, enzyme inhibitors, minerals, hormones such as estrogens, steroids such as hydrocortisone, 2-dimethylaminoethanol, copper salts such as copper chloride, peptides like argireline, syn-ake and those containing copper, coenzyme Q10, amino acids such as proline, vitamins, lactobionic acid, acetyl-coenzyme A, niacin, riboflavin, thiamin, ribose, electron transporters such as NADH and FADH2, natural extracts such as from Aloe vera, feverfew, oatmeal, dill, blackberry, princess tree, Picia anomala, and chicory, resorcinols such as 4-hexyl resorcinol, curcuminoids, sugar amines such as N-acetyl glucosamines, and derivatives and mixtures thereof.
Examples of vitamins include, but are not limited to, vitamin A, vitamin B's such as vitamin B3, vitamin B5, and vitamin B12, vitamin C, vitamin K, and different forms of vitamin E like alpha, beta, gamma or delta tocopherols or their mixtures, and derivatives thereof.
Examples of antioxidants include, but are not limited to, water-soluble antioxidants such as sulfhydryl compounds and their derivatives (e.g., sodium metabisulfite and N-acetyl-cysteine), lipoic acid and dihydrolipoic acid, resveratrol, lactoferrin, and ascorbic acid and ascorbic acid derivatives (e.g., ascorbyl palmitate and ascorbyl polypeptide). Oil-soluble antioxidants suitable for use in the compositions of this invention include, but are not limited to, butylated hydroxytoluene, retinoids (e.g., retinol and retinyl palmitate), tocopherols (e.g., tocopherol acetate), tocotrienols, and ubiquinone. Natural extracts containing antioxidants suitable for use in the compositions of this invention, include, but not limited to, extracts containing flavonoids and isoflavonoids and their derivatives (e.g., genistein and diadzein), extracts containing resveratrol and the like. Examples of such natural extracts include grape seed, green tea, pine bark, and propolis.
In one embodiment of the invention, the sunscreen composition has a linear complex viscosity |η*| of about 2000 to about 5000 cP at 100 rad/s. It has been found sunscreen compositions having a linear complex viscosity in this range exhibit excellent spreadibility on the skin, providing a light, water break during topical application.
Linear complex viscosity (cP) of the sunscreen composition is measured by the following “Complex Viscosity Test Method.”
A TA Instruments (New Castle, Del.) ARES G2 strain-controlled rheometer equipped with a Peltier temperature control system at 25° C. and a parallel plate geometry is used. The linear viscoelastic regime for a sample is determined by performing a strain sweep, where the strain amplitude is increased from 0.1 to 1000% strain at an angular frequency of one radian per second. The end of the linear viscoelastic regime is defined as the strain at which the storage modulus, G′, deviates by more than 5% of its average low-strain plateau value. To determine the magnitude of the linear complex viscosity, |η*|, versus frequency, a frequency sweep is performed by varying the angular frequency from 100 to 0.1 radians per second at a strain in the linear viscoelastic regime.
The following non-limiting examples further illustrate the invention.
The following Compositions 1-4 according to the invention and Comparative Compositions A, B, and C were made using the ingredients shown in the following Tables.
Composition 1 was prepared as follows.
Premix 1: Added Hyaluronic acid to 5% Purified Water and mixed using a magnetic stirrer for 1 hour at 35 to 40° C.
Water Phase: Added the remaining Purified Water, Disodium EDTA and Glycerin to the main vessel and mixed at 300 rpm until completely dissolved. Started heating up to 50° C. and slowly sprinkled Trideceth-6; Polyurethane-62 under mixing at 300 rpm. Once the Polyurethane-62 was fully hydrated, increased temperature to 75-80° C. Maintained temperature between 75-80° C. Added Chlorphenesin and Hydroxyacetophenone under stirring and mixed until fully dissolved.
Oil phase: In a separate container added the following ingredients and heated to target 75-80° C. while mixing at 300 rpm: Avobenzone, Homosalate, Octisalate, Octocrylene, Oxybenzone, Caprylyl Methicone, Phenoxyethanol, Diisopropyl Adipate, Caprylyl Carbonate, Glyceryl Stearate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Dimethicone; Acrylates/Dimethicone Copolymer.
At 60° C. added Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Crosspolymer.
Emulsification: when water phase and oil phase were between 75° C. and 80° C. slowly added oil phase to water phase under vigorous agitation and mixing at 1000 rpm. Homogenized for 4 minutes at 4500 rpm. Began to cool batch below 40° C. mixing at 800 rpm.
Post Adds: once the batch was below 40° C., added Menthyl Lactate, Ethanol, Violet #2, Blue #1, Pentylene Glycol, Fragrance, Silica, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate and Premix 1. Batch was homogenized for 3 minutes at 4500 rpm. Next measured the pH of the batch, and adjusted to 5.5 with 50% Sodium Hydroxide solution.
Composition 2 was prepared as follows.
Premix 1: Added Hyaluronic acid to 5% Purified Water and mixed using a magnetic stirrer for 1 hour at 35 to 40° C.
Water Phase: Added the remaining Purified Water, Disodium EDTA and Glycerin to the main vessel and mixed at 300 rpm until completely dissolved. Started heating up to 50° C. and slowly sprinkled Trideceth-6; Polyurethane-62 under mixing at 300 rpm. Once the Polyurethane-62 was fully hydrated, increased temperature to 75-80° C. Maintained temperature between 75-80° C. Added Chlorphenesin and Hydroxyacetophenone under stirring and mix until fully dissolved.
Oil phase: In a separate container added the following ingredients and heated to target 75-80° C. while mixing at 300 rpm: Avobenzone, Homosalate, Octisalate, Octocrylene, Caprylyl Methicone, Phenoxyethanol, Diisopropyl Adipate, Caprylyl Carbonate, Glyceryl Stearate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Dimethicone; Acrylates/Dimethicone Copolymer, Dimethicone; Dimethicone Crosspolymer.
At 60° C. added Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Crosspolymer.
Emulsification: when water phase and oil phase were between 75° C. and 80° C. slowly added oil phase to water phase under vigorous agitation and mixing at 1000 rpm. Homogenized for 4 minutes at 4500 rpm. Began to cool batch below 40° C. mixing at 800 rpm.
Post Adds: once the batch was below 40° C., added Blue #1, Pentylene Glycol,
Fragrance, Ethanol, Silica and Premix 1. Batch was homogenized for 3 minutes at 4500 rpm. Next measured the pH of the batch, and adjusted to 5.5 with 50% Sodium Hydroxide solution.
Composition 3 was prepared as follows.
Premix 1: Added Hyaluronic acid to 5% Purified Water and mixed using a magnetic stirrer for 1 hour at 35 to 40° C.
Water Phase: Added the remaining Purified Water, Disodium EDTA and Glycerin to the main vessel and mixed at 300 rpm until completely dissolved. Started heating up to 50° C. and slowly sprinkled Trideceth-6; Polyurethane-62 under mixing at 300 rpm. Once the Polyurethane-62 was fully hydrated, increased temperature to 75-80° C. Maintained temperature between 75-80° C. Added Chlorphenesin and Hydroxyacetophenone under stirring and mixed until fully dissolved.
Oil phase: In a separate container added the following ingredients and heated to target 75-80° C. while mixing at 300 rpm: Avobenzone, Homosalate, Octisalate,
Octocrylene, Oxybenzone, Caprylyl Methicone, Phenoxyethanol, Diisopropyl Adipate, Caprylyl Carbonate, Glyceryl Stearate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Dimethicone; Acrylates/Dimethicone Copolymer.
At 60° C. added Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Crosspolymer.
Emulsification: when water phase and oil phase were between 75° C. and 80° C. slowly added oil phase to water phase under vigorous agitation and mixing at 1000 rpm. Homogenized for 4 minutes at 4500 rpm. Began to cool batch below 40° C. mixing at 800 rpm.
Post Adds: once the batch was below 40° C., added Menthyl Lactate, Ethanol, Blue #1, Fragrance, Silica, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate and Premix 1. Batch was homogenized for 3 minutes at 4500 rpm. Next measured the pH of the batch, and adjusted to 5.5 with 50% Sodium Hydroxide solution.
Composition 4 was prepared as follows.
Premix 1: Added Hyaluronic acid to 5% Purified Water and mixed using a magnetic stirrer for 1 hour at 35 to 40° C.
Water Phase: Added the remaining Purified Water, Disodium EDTA and Glycerin to the main vessel and mixed at 300 rpm until completely dissolved. Started heating up to 50° C. and slowly sprinkled Trideceth-6; Polyurethane-62 under mixing at 300 rpm.
Once the Polyurethane-62 was fully hydrated, increased temperature to 75-80° C. Maintained temperature between 75-80° C. Added Chlorphenesin and Hydroxyacetophenone under stirring and mix until fully dissolved.
Oil phase: In a separate container added the following ingredients and heated to target 75-80° C. while mixing at 300 rpm: Avobenzone, Homosalate, Octisalate,
Octocrylene, Caprylyl Methicone, Phenoxyethanol, Diisopropyl Adipate, Caprylyl Carbonate, Glyceryl Stearate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Dimethicone; Acrylates/Dimethicone Copolymer, Dimethicone; Dimethicone Crosspolymer.
At 60° C. added Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Crosspolymer.
Emulsification: when water phase and oil phase were between 75° C. and 80° C. slowly added oil phase to water phase under vigorous agitation and mixing at 1000 rpm. Homogenized for 4 minutes at 4500 rpm. Began to cool batch below 40° C. mixing at 800 rpm.
Post Adds: once the batch was below 40° C., added Blue #1, Fragrance, Ethanol, Silica and Premix 1. Batch was homogenized for 3 minutes at 4500 rpm. Next measured the pH of the batch, and adjusted to 5.5 with 50% Sodium Hydroxide solution.
Comparative Composition A was prepared as follows.
Premix 1: Added Hyaluronic acid to 5% Purified Water and mixed using a magnetic stirrer for 1 hour at 35 to 40° C.
Water Phase: Added the remaining Purified Water, Disodium EDTA and Glycerin to the main vessel and mixed at 300 rpm until completely dissolved. Started heating up to 50° C. and slowly sprinkled Trideceth-6; Polyurethane-62 under mixing at 300 rpm. Once the Polyurethane-62 was fully hydrated, increased temperature to 75-80° C. Maintained temperature between 75-80° C. Added Chlorphenesin and Hydroxyacetophenone under stirring and mix until fully dissolved.
Oil phase: In a separate container added the following ingredients and heated to target 75-80° C. while mixing at 300 rpm: Avobenzone, Homosalate, Octisalate, Octocrylene, Oxybenzone, Caprylyl Methicone, Phenoxyethanol, Diisopropyl Adipate, Caprylyl Carbonate, Glyceryl Stearate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Dimethicone; Acrylates/Dimethicone Copolymer.
At 60° C. added Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Crosspolymer.
Emulsification: when water phase and oil phase were between 75° C. and 80° C. slowly added oil phase to water phase under vigorous agitation and mixing at 1000 rpm. Homogenized for 4 minutes at 4500 rpm. Began to cool batch below 40° C. mixing at 800 rpm.
Post Adds: once the batch was below 40° C., added Blue #1, Pentylene Glycol, Fragrance, Ethanol, Silica, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Menthyl lactate and Premix 1. Batch was homogenized for 3 minutes at 4500 rpm. Next measured the pH of the batch, and adjusted to 5.5 with 50% Sodium Hydroxide solution.
Comparative Composition B was prepared as follows.
Premix 1: Added Hyaluronic acid to 5% Purified Water and mixed using a magnetic stirrer for 1 hour at 35 to 40° C.
Water Phase: Added the remaining Purified Water, Disodium EDTA and Glycerin to the main vessel and mixed at 300 rpm until completely dissolved. Started heating up to 50° C. and slowly sprinkled Trideceth-6; Polyurethane-62 under mixing at 300 rpm. Once the Polyurethane-62 was fully hydrated, increased temperature to 75-80° C. Maintained temperature between 75-80° C. Added Chlorphenesin and Hydroxyacetophenone under stirring and mix until fully dissolved.
Oil phase: In a separate container added the following ingredients and heated to target 75-80° C. while mixing at 300 rpm: Avobenzone, Homosalate, Octisalate, Octocrylene, Caprylyl Methicone, Phenoxyethanol, Diisopropyl Adipate, Caprylyl Carbonate, Glyceryl Stearate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Dimethicone; Acrylates/Dimethicone Copolymer, Dimethicone; Dimethicone Crosspolymer.
At 60° C. added Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Crosspolymer.
Emulsification: when water phase and oil phase were between 75° C. and 80° C. slowly added oil phase to water phase under vigorous agitation and mixing at 1000 rpm. Homogenized for 4 minutes at 4500 rpm. Began to cool batch below 40° C. mixing at 800 rpm.
Post Adds: once the batch was below 40° C., added Blue #1, Pentylene Glycol, Fragrance, Ethanol, Silica and Premix 1. Batch was homogenized for 3 minutes at 4500 rpm. Next measured the pH of the batch, and adjusted to 5.5 with 50% Sodium Hydroxide solution.
Comparative Composition C was prepared as follows.
Water Phase: Added the remaining Purified Water, Disodium EDTA and Glycerin to the main vessel and mixed at 300 rpm until completely dissolved. Started heating up to 50° C. and slowly sprinkled Trideceth-6; Polyurethane-62 under mixing at 300 rpm. Once the Polyurethane-62 was fully hydrated, increased temperature to 75-80° C. Maintained temperature between 75-80° C. Added Chlorphenesin and Hydroxyacetophenone under stirring and mix until fully dissolved.
Oil phase: In a separate container added the following ingredients and heated to target 75-80° C. while mixing at 300 rpm: Avobenzone, Homosalate, Octisalate, Octocrylene, Caprylyl Methicone, Phenoxyethanol, Diisopropyl Adipate, Caprylyl Carbonate, Dimethicone; Acrylates/Dimethicone Copolymer.
At 60° C. added Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Crosspolymer.
Emulsification: when water phase and oil phase were between 75° C. and 80° C. slowly added oil phase to water phase under vigorous agitation and mixing at 1000 rpm. Homogenized for 4 minutes at 4500 rpm. Began to cool batch below 40° C. mixing at 800 rpm.
Post Adds: once the batch was below 40° C., added Fragrance, Ethanol and Silica. Batch was homogenized for 3 minutes at 4500 rpm. Next measured the pH of the batch, and adjusted to 5.5 with 50% Sodium Hydroxide solution.
Comparative Composition C did not possess the expected aesthetics to be included in the testing. Visual thickness was above the target.
The complex viscosity of Compositions 1-4 and Comparative Compositions A and B were tested using the Complex Viscosity Test Method set forth above.
In addition, each of these compositions was evaluated for skin feel rub-out sensory characteristics using the following method. With the support of a cosmetic spatula to the back of the non-dominant hand, 0.10 grams (about the size of a pea) of the composition was rubbed in with fingers of the dominant hand for five rotations and applied for five minutes before sensory evaluation was taken. The overall ease of application and rate of dry out were determined.
The results are shown in Table 2.
Only Compositions 1-4 containing a combination of about 0.55 to about 0.75 weight percent of a hydrophobically modified polyurethane; about 0.4 to about 0.6 weight percent of a taurate copolymer; and at least about 0.1 weight percent of glyceryl stearate had linear complex viscosities of 2000-5000.
Consistent with that, Compositions 1-4 required little effort to apply and provided a watery break during rubbing, delivering a fresh feeling upon application and a quick dry out, leaving a matte and refreshing finish. In contrast, Comparative Composition A required more effort to apply and also lacked a watery break due to its thickness, while Comparative Composition B was too runny to be applied easily and uniformly, and also took too long to apply and dry out.
