Liquid cleansing composition with unique sensory properties

Abstract
An liquid cleansing composition is disclosed that contains a specific levels of polyol(s), monoalkyl sulfosuccinate surfactant(s), N-acyl amino acid(s) or salt(s) thereof, and optionally monoalkyl phosphate(s) that provides excellent user properties including fast rinsing, squeaky clean feel and excellent lather.
Description
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

1. Field of the Invention


The present invention relates to detergent compositions suitable for topical application for cleansing the human body, such as the skin and hair. In particular, it relates to stable liquid cleansing compositions containing a specific combination of polyol(s), monoalkyl sulfosuccinate(s), n-acyl amino acid surfactant(s) and optionally monoallkyl phosphate(s).


2. Background of the Art


Prior art skin cleansers modify the way the skin feels after the shower by depositing materials such as oils or polymers. However, such cleansers often have disadvantageous sensory or physical properties such as a slimy feel and/or poor lather. Stability problems are observed with other combinations of hydrophilic emollients and surfactants.


EP Patent 1235890 titled Stable, High Glycerol Liquids Comprising N-Acyl Amino Acids and/or Salts and issued to Arai et al. discloses high content glycerol liquid compositions comprising N-acyl amino acids and/or salts and defined sulfosuccinic acid monoesters and a method of enhancing the stability of high content glycerin compositions comprising N-acyl amino acids or salts thereof and sulfosuccinic acid monoesters.


Surprisingly it has been discovered that by incorporating specific emollients and surfactants in specific amounts in a cleanser formulation, excellent sensory and lather properties can be obtained simultaneously.




BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

In one aspect of the invention is a cleansing composition including but not limited to:


about 30 to 54% by wt. of total polyol(s); preferably at least about 35% by wt.;


about 5 to 10% by wt. of total normal C10 to C16 mono alkyl sulfosuccinate(s), and about 0.6 to 9% by wt. of N-acyl amino acid(s) or salt(s) of such acid(s) or a blend there of; preferably about 1 to 9% by wt.


In a further aspect of the invention is a method for cleansing the skin or hair with a quick rinsing cleansing composition having durable lather, including but not limited to the steps of:


a. applying the durable lathering composition containing about 30 to 54% by wt. of total polyol(s); about 5 to 10% by wt. of total normal C10 to C16 mono alkyl sulfosuccinate(s), and about 0.6 to 9% by wt. of N-acyl amino acid(s) or salt(s) of such acid(s) or a blend there of to the skin or hair;


b. rinsing the composition from the skin or hair; and


c. drying the skin or hair.




DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

In one aspect of the invention is a cleansing composition including but not limited to:


about 30 to 54% by wt. of total polyol(s); preferably at least about 35% by wt.;


about 5 to 10% by wt. of total normal C10 to C16 mono alkyl sulfosuccinate(s), and


about 0.6 to 9% by wt. of N-acyl amino acid(s) or salt(s) of such acid(s) or a blend there of; preferably about 1 to 9% by wt.


In a preferred embodiment, the inventive composition further includes at least about 2 to 5% by wt. of total normal C8 to C24 mono alkyl phosphate(s). Advantageously the composition further includes at least about 15% by wt. of water; (preferably at least about 30% by wt. of water). Preferably the ratio of total mono alkyl sulfosuccinate(s) to total mono alkyl phosphate(s) is in the range of about 1:10 to about 10:1 (more preferably in the range of about 9:2 to about 2:9). Advantageously the ratio of total mono alkyl sulfosuccinate(s) to total N-acyl amino acid surfactant(s) is in the range of about 1:10:to about 10:1; preferably in the range of about 9:3 to about 3:9.


In a further preferred embodiment, the polyol(s) is/are selected from glycerin, diglycerin, ethoxylated glycerin, propoxylated glycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol hexylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol or 1,2,6-hexanetriol or blends thereof and/or the monoalkyl sulfosuccinate(s) is/are selected from C10, C12 or C14 monoalkyl sulfosuccinate(s) or blends thereof. When present, the mono alkyl phosphate(s) can be in either the acid or neutralized form preferably where the alkyl group is in the range of C6 to C20. Advantageously the N-acyl amino acid surfactant(s) has/have alkyl chain length(s) in the range of C8 to C16.


In a further preferred embodiment, the inventive composition has a viscosity is in the range of about 5,000 to 1,000,000 cps at 25 C as measured via the T-bar method. Preferably the composition further includes about 0.1% to 15% by wt. of an ordered liquid crystalline phase inducing structurant inducing a liquid crystalline phase in said composition. More preferably the ordered liquid crystalline phase cleansing composition is a lamellar composition. Advantageously the ordered liquid crystalline phase inducing structurant is selected from a C8 to C24 alkenyl or branched alkyl fatty acid or ester thereof, a C8 to C24 alkenyl or branched alkyl alcohol or ether thereof, a C5 to C14 linear alkyl fatty acid, trihydroxystearin, or derivatives or mixtures thereof. Advantageously the ordered liquid crystalline phase inducing structurant is selected from lauric acid, oleic acid, palm kernel acid, palm fatty acid, coconut acid, isostearic acid, or derivatives or mixtures thereof.


In a further preferred embodiment, the inventive composition includes cationic polymer(s) in a total concentration of greater than about 0.1% by wt. (preferably greater than about 0.2, 0.5, 1 or 2% by wt.). Preferably the composition further includes less than about 4% by wt. of total tri- and diglyceride oil(s) or more preferably less than about 1% by wt. of total tri-and diglyceride oil(s)). Advantageously the composition further includes less than about 1% by wt. of diakylene glycol(s) or preferably less than about 0.8% by wt. of diakylene glycol(s). More preferably the composition further includes less than about 5% by wt. of soap(s), or preferably less than about 4, 3, 2, or 1% by wt. of soap(s).


In a further aspect of the invention is a method for cleansing the skin or hair with a quick rinsing cleansing composition having durable lather, including but not limited to the steps of:


applying to the skin or hair the durable lathering composition including at least about 30 to 54% by wt. of total polyol(s); about 5 to 10 % by wt. of total normal C10 to C16 mono alkyl sulfosuccinate(s), and about 0.6 to 9% by wt. of N-acyl amino acid(s) or salt(s) of such acid(s) or a blend there of; rinsing the composition from the skin or hair; and drying the skin or hair.


Preferably the inventive compositions have at least one sensory attribute as defined in the Panel Test Method for Sensory and Physical Properties protocol described below that is superior compared to comparative composition(s). More preferably the inventive compositions have at least 2, 3, 4 or more sensory attributes with superior properties. Advantagously the inventive compositions are found to be stable according the stablity criteria summarized below compared to comparative composition(s). These attributes preferably include one or more of the following: ease of pouring, thickness, amount of lather, creaminess of lather, ease of rinse, and slippery wet as defined below.


Surfactants:


Surfactants are an essential component of the inventive cleansing composition. They are compounds that have hydrophobic and hydrophilic portions that act to reduce the surface tension of the aqueous solutions they are dissolved in. In addition to the surfactants required by the invention, other useful surfactants can be added to the inventive composition and can include anionic, nonionic, amphoteric, and cationic surfactants, and blends thereof.


Anionic Surfactants:


The cleansing composition of the present invention contains monoalkyl sulfosuccinate(s) (e.g., C6-C22 sulfosuccinates); N-acyl amino acids and optionally monoalkyl phosphate(s) (e.g. C8-C24 alkyl phosphates).


Acyl groups in the N-acyl amino acids and salts thereof which are suitable for the purposes of the present invention have 6 to 24 carbon atoms; for example, lauryl, myristyl, palmityl, or the like is included. The amino acids include glutamic acid, glycine and beta-alanine. The salts include alkali metal salts, hydroxyalkyl substituted ammonium salts and ammonium salts. The hydroxyalkyl substituted ammonium salts may preferably have 1 to 3 carbon atoms in the hydroxyalkyl group. N-acyl-N-alkyl amino acids are also included in the term “N-acyl amino acids” used herein. The alkyl groups in the N-acyl-N-alkyl amino acids may preferably have 1 to 3 carbon atoms and include methyl, ethyl, propyl, and isopropyl. These N-acyl amino acids and salts thereof may be used independently or as a combination of two or more.


Preferred N-acyl amino acids and salts thereof may include N-acyl amino acids such as N-lauroylglutamic acid, N-myristoylglutamic acid, N-palmitoyl-alpha-glutamic acid, N-myristoyl-beta-alanine, N-palmitoyl-beta-alanine, N-acyl N-alkyl amino acids such as N-lauroyl-N-ethylglycine, N-lauroyl-N-isopropylglycine, N-lauroylsarcosine, N-myristoylsarcosine, N-palmitoylsarcosine, N-lauroyl-N-methyl-beta-alanine, as well as their alkali metal salts and hydroxyalkyl-substituted ammonium salts.


Monoalkyl sulfosuccinates having the formula:

R4O2CCH2CH(SO3M)CO2M;

are usefully employed in the invention as described above wherein R4 ranges from C10-C16 alkyl and M is a solubilizing cation.


Other anionic detergent actives which may be used include aliphatic sulfonates, such as a primary alkane (e.g., C8-C22) sulfonate, primary alkane (e.g., C8-C22) disulfonate, C8-C22 alkene sulfonate, C8-C22 hydroxyalkane sulfonate or alkyl glyceryl ether sulfonate (AGS); or aromatic sulfonates such as alkyl benzene sulfonate.


The anionic may also be an alkyl sulfate (e.g., C12-C18 alkyl sulfate) or alkyl ether sulfate (including alkyl glyceryl ether sulfates). Among the alkyl ether sulfates are those having the formula:

RO(CH2CH02O)nSO3M

wherein R is an alkyl or alkenyl having 8 to 18 carbons, preferably 12 to 18 carbons, n has an average value of greater than 1.0, preferably greater than 3; and M is a solubilizing cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or substituted ammonium. Ammonium and sodium lauryl ether sulfates are preferred.


The anionic may also include dialkyl sulfosuccinates (e.g., C6-C22 sulfosuccinates); alkyl and acyl taurates, alkyl and acyl sarcosinates, sulfoacetates, C8-C24 dialkyl phosphates, alkyl phosphate esters and alkoxyl alkyl phosphate esters, acyl lactates, C8-C22 monoalkyl succinates and maleates, sulphoacetates, alkyl glucosides and acyl isethionates, and the like.


Amide-MEA sulfosuccinates of the formula;

R4CONHCH2CH2O2CCH2CH(SO3M)CO2M


May be used wherein R4 ranges from C8-C22 alkyl and M is a solubilizing cation may be used.


Sarcosinates are generally indicated by the formula:

R1 CON(CH3)CH2CO2M,


wherein R1 ranges from C8-C20 alkyl and M is a solubilizing cation.


Taurates are generally identified by formula:

P R2CONR3CH2CH2SO3M


wherein R2 ranges from C8-C20 alkyl, R3 ranges from C1-C4 alkyl and M is a solubilizing cation.


The inventive cleansing composition may contain C8-C18 acyl isethionates. These esters are prepared by reaction between alkali metal isethionate with mixed aliphatic fatty acids having from 6 to 18 carbon atoms and an iodine value of less than 20. At least 75% of the mixed fatty acids have from 12 to 18 carbon atoms and up to 25% have from 6 to 10 carbon atoms.


The acyl isethionate may be an alkoxylated isethionate such as is described in Ilardi et al., U.S. Pat. No. 5,393,466, titled “Fatty Acid Esters of Polyalkoxylated isethonic acid; issued Feb. 28, 1995; hereby incorporated by reference. This compound has the general formula:

RC—O(O)—C(X)H—C(Y)H2—(OCH—CH2)m—SO3M+

wherein R is an alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbons, m is an integer from 1 to 4, X and Y are hydrogen or an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbons and M+ is a monovalent cation such as, for example, sodium, potassium or ammonium.


Amphoteric Surfactants


One or more amphoteric surfactants may be used in this invention. Amphoteric surfactants are preferably used at levels as low as 1 or 2% by wt. and at levels as high as 6 or 8% by wt. Such surfactants include at least one acid group. This may be a carboxylic or a sulphonic acid group. They include quaternary nitrogen and therefore are quaternary amido acids. They should generally include an alkyl or alkenyl group of 7 to 18 carbon atoms. They will usually comply with an overall structural formula:

R1—[—C(O)—NH(CH2)n—]m—N+—(R2)(R3)X—Y


where R1 is alkyl or alkenyl of 7 to 18 carbon atoms;


R2 and R3 are each independently alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or carboxyalkyl of 1 to 3 carbon atoms;


n is2to4;


m is 0 to 1;


X is alkylene of 1 to 3 carbon atoms optionally substituted with hydroxyl, and


Y is —CO2— or —SO3


Suitable amphoteric surfactants within the above general formula include simple betaines of formula:

R1—N+—(R2)(R3)CH2CO2


and amido betaines of formula:


R1—CONH(CH2)n—N+—(R2)(R3)CH2CO2


where n is 2 or 3.


In both formulae R1, R2 and R3 are as defined previously. R1 may in particular be a mixture of C12 and C14 alkyl groups derived from coconut oil so that at least half, preferably at least three quarters of the groups R1 have 10 to 14 carbon atoms. R2 and R3 are preferably methyl.


A further possibility is that the amphoteric detergent is a sulphobetaine of formula:

R1—N+—(R2)(R3)(CH2)3SO3
or
R1—CONH(CH2)m—N+—(R2)(R3)(CH2)3SO3

where m is 2 or 3, or variants of these in which —(CH2)3SO3 is replaced by

—CH2C(OH)(H)CH2SO3


In these formulae R1, R2 and R3 are as discussed previously.


Amphoacetates and diamphoacetates are also intended to be covered in possible zwifterionic and/or amphoteric compounds which may be used such as e.g., sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, and blends thereof, and the like.


Nonionic Surfactants


One or more nonionic surfactants may also be used in the cleansing composition of the present invention. Nonionic surfactants are preferably used at levels as low as 1 or 2% by wt. and at levels as high as 5 or 6% by wt. The nonionics which may be used include in particular the reaction products of compounds having a hydrophobic group and a reactive hydrogen atom, for example aliphatic alcohols, acids, amides or alkylphenols with alkylene oxides, especially ethylene oxide either alone or with propylene oxide. Specific nonionic detergent compounds are alkyl (C6-C22) phenols ethylene oxide condensates, the condensation products of aliphatic (C8-C18) primary or secondary linear or branched alcohols with ethylene oxide, and products made by condensation of ethylene oxide with the reaction products of propylene oxide and ethylenediamine. Other so-called nonionic detergent compounds include long chain tertiary amine oxides, long chain tertiary phosphine oxides and dialkyl sulphoxide, and the like.


The nonionic may also be a sugar amide, such as a polysaccharide amide. Specifically, the surfactant may be one of the lactobionamides described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,389,279 to Au et al. titled “Compositions Comprising Nonionic Glycolipid Surfactants issued Feb. 14, 1995; which is hereby incorporated by reference or it may be one of the sugar amides described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,009,814 to Kelkenberg, titled “Use of N-Poly Hydroxyalkyl Fatty Acid Amides as Thickening Agents for Liquid Aqueous Surfactant Systems” issued Apr. 23, 1991; hereby incorporated into the subject application by reference.


Cationic Skin Conditioning Agents


A useful component in compositions according to the invention is a cationic skin feel agent or polymer, such as for example cationic celluloses. Cationic polymers are preferably used at levels as low as about 0.2 or 0.3% and at levels as high as about 0.8 or 1% by wt. Cationic cellulose is available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, N.J., USA) in their Polymer JR (trade mark) and LR (trade mark) series of polymers, as salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 10. Another type of cationic cellulose includes the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24. These materials are available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, N.J., USA) under the tradename Polymer LM-200.


A particularly suitable type of cationic polysaccharide polymer that can be used is a cationic guar gum derivative, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (Commercially available from Rhone-Poulenc in their JAGUAR trademark series). Examples are JAGUAR C13S, which has a low degree of substitution of the cationic groups and high viscosity, JAGUAR C15, having a moderate degree of substitution and a low viscosity, JAGUAR C17 (high degree of substitution, high viscosity), JAGUAR C16, which is a hydroxypropylated cationic guar derivative containing a low level of substituent groups as well as cationic quaternary ammonium groups, and JAGUAR 162 which is a high transparency, medium viscosity guar having a low degree of substitution.


Particularly preferred cationic polymers are JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17 and JAGUAR C16 and JAGUAR C162, especially Jaguar C13S. Other cationic skin feel agents known in the art may be used provided that they are compatible with the inventive formulation.


Cationic Surfactants


One or more cationic surfactants may also be used in the cleansing composition. Cationic surfactants may be used at levels as low as about 0.1, 0.3, 0.5 or 1 and at levels as high as 2, 3, 4 or 5% by wt.


Examples of cationic detergents are the quaternary ammonium compounds such as alkyldimethylammonium halogenides. Other suitable surfactants which may be used are described in U.S. Pat. No. 3,723,325 to Parran Jr. titled “Detergent Compositions Containing Particle Deposition Enhancing Agents” issued Mar., 27, 1973; and “Surface Active Agents and Detergents” (Vol. I & II) by Schwartz, Perry & Berch, both of which are also incorporated into the subject application by reference.


In addition, the inventive cleansing composition of the invention may include 0 to 15% by wt. optional ingredients as follows: perfumes; sequestering agents, such as tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate (EDTA), EHDP or mixtures in an amount of 0.01 to 1%, preferably 0.01 to 0.05%; and coloring agents, opacifiers and pearlizers such as zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, TiO2, EGMS (ethylene glycol monostearate) or Lytron 621 (Styrene/Acrylate copolymer) and the like; all of which are useful in enhancing the appearance or cosmetic properties of the product.


The compositions may further comprise antimicrobials such as 2-hydroxy-4,2′,4′trichlorodiphenylether (DP300); preservatives such as dimethyloldimethylhydantoin (Glydant XL1000), parabens, sorbic acid etc., and the like.


The compositions may also comprise coconut acyl mono- or diethanol amides as suds boosters, and strongly ionizing salts such as sodium chloride and sodium sulfate may also be used to advantage.


Antioxidants such as, for example, butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) and the like may be used advantageously in amounts of about 0.01% or higher if appropriate.


Moisturizers (also known as hydrophilic emollients) that also are Humectants such as polyhydric alcohols, e.g. glycerine and propylene glycol, and the like; and polyols such as the polyethylene glycols listed below and the like are used as described above.

Polyox WSR-205PEG 14M,Polyox WSR-N-60KPEG 45M, orPolyox WSR-N-750PEG 7M.


Hydrophobic emollients may be used at levels that do not alter the unique sensory properties of the invention. Preferably, hydrophobic emollients are used below about 1, 0.5, 0.1, or 0.01% by wt. or not at all.


The term “emollient” (also considered conditioning compounds according to the invention) is defined as a substance which softens or improves the elasticity, appearance, and youthfulness of the skin (stratum corneum) by either increasing its water content, adding, or replacing lipids and other skin nutrients; or both, and keeps it soft by retarding the decrease of its water content.


Useful hydrophobic emollients include the following:


(a) silicone oils and modifications thereof such as linear and cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes; amino, alkyl, alkylaryl, and aryl silicone oils;


(b) fats and oils including natural fats and oils such as jojoba, soybean, sunflower, rice bran, avocado, almond, olive, sesame, persic, castor, coconut, mink oils; cacao fat; beef tallow, lard; hardened oils obtained by hydrogenating the aforementioned oils; and synthetic mono, di and triglycerides such as myristic acid glyceride and 2-ethylhexanoic acid glyceride;


(c) waxes such as carnauba, spermaceti, beeswax, lanolin, and derivatives thereof;


(d) hydrophobic and hydrophillic plant extracts;


(e) hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffins, vaseline, microcrystalline wax, ceresin, squalene, pristan and mineral oil;


(f) higher fatty acids such as lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, behenic, oleic, linoleic, linolenic, lanolic, isostearic, arachidonic and poly unsaturated fatty acids (PUFA);


(g) higher alcohols such as lauryl, cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, behenyl, cholesterol and 2-hexydecanol alcohol;


(h) esters such as cetyl octanoate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl adipate, butyl stearate, decyl oleate, cholesterol isostearate, glycerol monostearate, glycerol distearate, glycerol tristearate, alkyl lactate, alkyl citrate and alkyl tartrate;


(i) essential oils and extracts thereof such as mentha, jasmine, camphor, white cedar, bitter orange peel, ryu, turpentine, cinnamon, bergamot, citrus unshiu, calamus, pine, lavender, bay, clove, hiba, eucalyptus, lemon, starflower, thyme, peppermint, rose, sage, sesame, ginger, basil, juniper, lemon grass, rosemary, rosewood, avocado, grape, grapeseed, myrrh, cucumber, watercress, calendula, elder flower, geranium, linden blossom, amaranth, seaweed, ginko, ginseng, carrot, guarana, tea tree, jojoba, comfrey, oatmeal, cocoa, neroli, vanilla, green tea, penny royal, aloe vera, menthol, cineole, eugenol, citral, citronelle, borneol, linalool, geraniol, evening primrose, camphor, thymol, spirantol, penene, limonene and terpenoid oils;


(j) mixtures of any of the foregoing components, and the like.


Ordered Liquid Crystalline Compositions:


The inventive cleansing composition preferably possesses ordered liquid crystalline microstructure, preferably lamellar microstructure structure. The rheological behavior of all surfactant solutions, including liquid cleansing solutions, is strongly dependent on the microstructure, i.e., the shape and concentration of micelles or other self-assembled structures in solution.


When there is sufficient surfactant to form micelles (concentrations above the critical micelle concentration or CMC), for example, spherical, cylindrical (rod-like or discoidal), spherocylindrical or ellipsoidal micelles may form. As surfactant concentration increases, ordered liquid crystalline phases such as lamellar phase, hexagonal phase, cubic phase or L3 sponge phase may form. The lamellar phase, for example, consists of alternating surfactant bilayers and water layers. These layers are not generally flat but fold to form submicron spherical onion like structures called vesicles or liposomes. The hexagonal phase, on the other hand, consists of long cylindrical micelles arranged in a hexagonal lattice. In general, the microstructure of most personal care products consist of either spherical micelles; rod micelles; or a lamellar dispersion.


As noted above, micelles may be spherical or rod-like. Formulations having spherical micelles tend to have a low viscosity and exhibit Newtonian shear behavior (i.e., viscosity stays constant as a function of shear rate; thus, if easy pouring of product is desired, the solution is less viscous and, as a consequence, it doesn't suspend as well). In these systems, the viscosity increases linearly with surfactant concentration.


Rod micellar solutions are more viscous because movement of the longer micelles is restricted. At a critical shear rate, the micelles align and the solution becomes shear thinning. Addition of salts increases the size of the rod micelles thereof increasing zero shear viscosity (i.e., viscosity when sitting in bottle) which helps suspend particles but also increases critical shear rate (point at which product becomes shear thinning; higher critical shear rates means product is more difficult to pour).


Lamellar dispersions differ from both spherical and rod-like micelles because they can have high zero shear viscosity (because of the close packed arrangement of constituent lamellar droplets), yet these solutions are very shear thinning (readily dispense on pouring). That is, the solutions can become thinner than rod micellar solutions at moderate shear rates.


In formulating liquid cleansing compositions, therefore, there is the choice of using rod-micellar solutions (whose zero shear viscosity, e.g., suspending ability, is not very good and/or are not very shear thinning); or lamellar dispersions (with higher zero shear viscosity, e.g. better suspending, and yet are very shear thinning). Such lamellar compositions are characterized by high zero shear viscosity (good for suspending and/or structuring) while simultaneously being very shear thinning such that they readily dispense in pouring. Such compositions possess a “heaping”, lotion-like appearance which convey signals of enhanced moisturization.


When rod-micellar solutions are used, they also often require the use of external structurants to enhance viscosity and to suspend particles (again, because they have lower zero shear viscosity than lamellar phase solutions). For this, carbomers and clays are often used. At higher shear rates (as in product dispensing, application of product to body, or rubbing with hands), since the rod-micellar solutions are less shear thinning, the viscosity of the solution stays high and the product can be stringy and thick. Lamellar dispersion based products, having higher zero shear viscosity, can more readily suspend emollients and are typically more creamy. In general, lamellar phase compositions are easy to identify by their characteristic focal conic shape and oily streak texture while hexagonal phase exhibits angular fan-like texture. In contrast, micellar phases are optically isotropic.


It should be understood that lamellar phases may be formed in a wide variety of surfactant systems using a wide variety of lamellar phase “inducers” as described, for example, in U.S. Pat. No. 5,952,286 issued to Puvvada, et al., on Sep. 14, 1999. Generally, the transition from micelle to lamellar phase are functions of effective average area of headgroup of the surfactant, the length of the extended tail, and the volume of tail. Using branched surfactants or surfactants with smaller headgroups or bulky tails are also effective ways of inducing transitions from rod micellar to lamellar.


One way of characterizing ordered liquid crystalline dispersions include measuring viscosity at low shear rate (using for example a Stress Rheometer) when additional inducer (e.g., oleic acid or isostearic acid) is used. At higher amounts of inducer, the low shear viscosity will significantly increase.


Another way of measuring ordered liquid crystalline dispersions is using freeze fracture electron microscopy. Micrographs generally will show ordered liquid crystalline microstructure and close packed organization of the lamellar droplets (generally in size range of about 2 microns).


In a preferred embodiment, the inventive ordered liquid crystalline phase composition preferably has a low shear viscosity in the range of about 40,000 to about 300,000 centipoises (cps) measured at 0.5 RPM using T-bar spindle A using the procedure described below. More preferably the viscosity range is about 50,000 to about 150,000 cps.


Optional Active Agents


Advantageously, active agents other than conditioning agents such as emollients or moisturizers defined above may be added to the cleansing composition in a safe and effective amount during formulation to treat the skin during the use of the product. These active ingredients may be advantageously selected from antimicrobial and antifungal actives, vitamins, anti-acne actives; anti-wrinkle, anti-skin atrophy and skin repair actives; skin barrier repair actives; non-steroidal cosmetic soothing actives; artificial tanning agents and accelerators; skin lightening actives; sunscreen actives; sebum stimulators; sebum inhibitors; anti-oxidants; protease inhibitors; skin tightening agents; anti-itch ingredients; hair growth inhibitors; 5-alpha reductase inhibitors; desquamating enzyme enhancers; anti-glycation agents; topical anesthetics, or mixtures thereof; and the like.


These active agents may be selected from water soluble active agents, oil soluble active agents, pharmaceutically-acceptable salts and mixtures thereof. Advantageously the agents will be soluble or dispersible in the cleansing composition. The term “active agent” as used herein, means personal care actives which can be used to deliver a benefit to the skin and/or hair and which generally are not used to confer a conditioning benefit, as is conferred by humectants and emollients previously described herein. The term “safe and effective amount” as used herein, means an amount of active agent high enough to modify the condition to be treated or to deliver the desired skin care benefit, but low enough to avoid serious side effects. The term “benefit,” as used herein, means the therapeutic, prophylactic, and/or chronic benefits associated with treating a particular condition with one or more of the active agents described herein. What is a safe and effective amount of the active agent ingredient will vary with the specific active agent, the ability of the active to penetrate through the skin, the age, health condition, and skin condition of the user, and other like factors. Preferably the composition of the present invention comprise from about 0.01% to about 50%, more preferably from about 0.05% to about 25%, even more preferably 0.1% to about 10%, and most preferably 0.1% % to about 5%, by weight of the active agent component.


Anti-acne actives can be effective in treating acne vulgaris, a chronic disorder of the pilosebaceous follicles. Nonlimiting examples of useful anti-acne actives include the keratolytics such as salicylic acid (o-hydroxybenzoic acid), derivatives of salicylic acid such as 5-octanoyl salicylic acid and 4 methoxysalicylic acid, and resorcinol; retinoids such as retinoic acid and its derivatives (e.g., cis and trans); sulfur-containing D and L amino acids and their derivatives and salts, particularly their N-acetyl derivatives, mixtures thereof and the like.


Antimicrobial and antifungal actives can be effective to prevent the proliferation and growth of bacteria and fungi. Nonlimiting examples of antimicrobial and antifungal actives include b-lactam drugs, quinolone drugs, ciprofloxacin, norfloxacin, tetracycline, erythromycin, amikacin, 2,4,4′-trichloro-2′-hydroxy diphenyl ether, 3,4,4′-trichlorobanilide, phenoxyethanol, triclosan; triclocarban; and mixtures thereof and the like.


Anti-wrinkle, anti-skin atrophy and skin repair actives can be effective in replenishing or rejuvenating the epidermal layer. These actives generally provide these desirable skin care benefits by promoting or maintaining the natural process of desquamation. Nonlimiting examples of antiwrinkle and anti-skin atrophy actives include vitamins, minerals, and skin nutrients such as milk, vitamins A, E, and K; vitamin alkyl esters, including vitamin C alkyl esters; magnesium, calcium, copper, zinc and other metallic components; retinoic acid and its derivatives (e.g., cis and trans); retinal; retinol; retinyl esters such as retinyl acetate, retinyl palmitate, and retinyl propionate; vitamin B 3 compounds (such as niacinamide and nicotinic acid), alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, e.g. salicylic acid and derivatives thereof (such as 5-octanoyl salicylic acid, heptyloxy 4 salicylic acid, and 4-methoxy salicylic acid); mixtures thereof and the like.


Skin barrier repair actives are those skin care actives which can help repair and replenish the natural moisture barrier function of the epidermis. Nonlimiting examples of skin barrier repair actives include lipids such as cholesterol, ceramides, sucrose esters and pseudo-ceramides as described in European Patent Specification No. 556,957; ascorbic acid; biotin; biotin esters; phospholipids, mixtures thereof, and the like.


Non-steroidal cosmetic soothing actives can be effective in preventing or treating inflammation of the skin. The soothing active enhances the skin appearance benefits of the present invention, e.g., such agents contribute to a more uniform and acceptable skin tone or color. Nonlimiting examples of cosmetic soothing agents include the following categories: propionic acid derivatives; acetic acid derivatives; fenamic acid derivatives; mixtures thereof and the like. Many of these cosmetic soothing actives are described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,985,459 to Sunshine et al., issued Jan. 15, 1991, incorporated by reference herein in its entirety.


Artificial tanning actives can help in simulating a natural suntan by increasing melanin in the skin or by producing the appearance of increased melanin in the skin. Nonlimiting examples of artificial tanning agents and accelerators include dihydroxyacetaone; tyrosine; tyrosine esters such as ethyl tyrosinate and glucose tyrosinate; mixtures thereof, and the like.


Skin lightening actives can actually decrease the amount of melanin in the skin or provide such an effect by other mechanisms. Nonlimiting examples of skin lightening actives useful herein include aloe extract, alpha-glyceryl-L-ascorbic acid, aminotyroxine, ammonium lactate, glycolic acid, hydroquinone, 4 hydroxyanisole, mixtures thereof, and the like.


Also useful herein are sunscreen actives. A wide variety of sunscreen agents are described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,087,445, to Haffey et al., issued Feb. 11, 1992; U.S. Pat. No. 5,073,372, to Turner et al., issued Dec. 17, 1991; U.S. Pat. No. 5,073,371, to Turner et al. issued Dec. 17, 1991; and Segarin, et al., at Chapter VIII, pages 189 et seq., of Cosmetics Science and Technology, all of which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. Nonlimiting examples of sunscreens which are useful in the compositions of the present invention are those selected from the group consisting of octyl methoxyl cinnamate (Parsol MCX) and butyl methoxy benzoylmethane (Parsol 1789), 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl N,N-dimethyl-p-aminobenzoate, p-aminobenzoic acid, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, oxybenzone, mixtures thereof, and the like.


Sebum stimulators can increase the production of sebum by the sebaceous glands. Nonlimiting examples of sebum stimulating actives include bryonolic acid, dehydroetiandrosterone (DHEA), orizanol, mixtures thereof, and the like.


Sebum inhibitors can decrease the production of sebum by the sebaceous glands. Nonlimiting examples of useful sebum inhibiting actives include aluminum hydroxy chloride, corticosteroids, dehydroacetic acid and its salts, dichlorophenyl imidazoldioxolan (available from Elubiol), mixtures thereof, and the like.


Also useful as actives in the present invention are protease inhibitors. Protease inhibitors can be divided into two general classes: the proteinases and the peptidases. Proteinases act on specific interior peptide bonds of proteins and peptidases act on peptide bonds adjacent to a free amino or carboxyl group on the end of a protein and thus cleave the protein from the outside. The protease inhibitors suitable for use in the present invention include, but are not limited to, proteinases such as serine proteases, metalloproteases, cysteine proteases, and aspartyl protease, and peptidases, such as carboxypepidases, dipeptidases and aminopepidases, mixtures thereof and the like.


Other useful as active ingredients in the present invention are skin tightening agents. Nonlimiting examples of skin tightening agents which are useful in the compositions of the present invention include monomers which can bind a polymer to the skin such as terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, (meth)acrylic acid and a hydrophobic monomer comprised of long chain alkyl (meth)acrylates, mixtures thereof, and the like.


Active ingredients in the present invention may also include anti-itch ingredients. Suitable examples of anti-itch ingredients which are useful in the compositions of the present invention include hydrocortisone, methdilizine and trimeprazineare, mixtures thereof, and the like.


Nonlimiting examples of hair growth inhibitors which are useful in the compositions of the present invention include 17 beta estradiol, anti angiogenic steroids, curcuma extract, cycloxygenase inhibitors, evening primrose oil, linoleic acid and the like. Suitable 5-alpha reductase inhibitors such as ethynylestradiol and, genistine mixtures thereof, and the like.


Nonlimiting examples of desquamating enzyme enhancers which are useful in the compositions of the present invention include alanine, aspartic acid, N methyl serine, serine, trimethyl glycine, mixtures thereof, and the like. A nonlimiting example of an anti-glycation agent which is useful in the compositions of the present invention would be Amadorine (available from Barnet Products Distributor), and the like.


The invention will now be described in greater detail by way of the following non-limiting examples. The examples are for illustrative purposes only and not intended to limit the invention in any way. Physical test methods are described below:


Except in the operating and comparative examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description indicating amounts or ratios of materials or conditions or reaction, physical properties of materials and/or use are to be understood as modified by the word “about”.


Where used in the specification, the term “comprising” is intended to include the presence of stated features, integers, steps, components, but not to preclude the presence or addition of one or more features, integers, steps, components or groups thereof.


All percentages in the specification and examples are intended to be by weight unless stated otherwise.


EXAMPLE 1

A series of inventive and comparative formulas A to I were made according to Table 1 using the procedure below in order to evaluate the effect of glycerin concentration on various sensory properties. The sensory properties were determined via trained panel testing using the procedure provided below and the results are summarized in Table 1. It was found that the inventive formulations provided overall superior sensory and stability properties compared to the comparative formulations.

TABLE 1ABCDEFGHI(Comp)(Comp)(Inv.)(Inv.)(Inv.)(Inv.)(Inv.)(Inv.)(Comp)Component% w/w% w/w% w/w% w/w% w/w% w/w% w/w% w/w% w/wWater DeionizedTo-100To-100To-100To-100To-100To-100To-100To-100To-100Glycerin 95%20.00025.00030.00035.00038.00040.0045.00050.00055.000Na2EDTA0.050.050.050.050.050.050.050.050.05Methyl Paraben0.200.200.200.200.200.200.200.200.20Polyquaternium-39,2.002.002.002.002.002.002.002.002.0010% (1)Polyquaternium-7,0.20.20.20.20.20.20.20.20.210% (2)C12 Disodium8.008.008.008.008.008.008.008.009.00Sulfosuccinate 95% (3)Na Cocoyl Glycinate (4)3.003.003.003.003.003.003.003.003.00K Monoalkyl3.003.003.003.003.003.003.003.003.00phosphate 35% (5)Propyl Paraben0.100.100.100.100.100.100.100.100.10Lauric acid4.004.004.004.004.004.004.004.004.00Palmitic acid0.700.700.700.700.700.700.700.700.70Stearic Acid (6)0.400.400.400.400.400.400.400.400.40Phenoxyethanol0.400.400.400.400.400.400.400.400.40Fragrance0.20.20.20.20.20.200.20.20.2Properties andpanel test data:Viscosity (cps) 25 C.5,1107,22012,33322,00030,00033,60040,00043,00041,000Ease of Pouring (7)9.337.667.483.833.272.722.442.382.11Thickness (8)1.503.552.004.86.577.107.667.778.11Amount of Lather (9)4.115.124.136.656.657.807.827.577.45Creaminess of3.555.444.305.557.557.257.187.007.11Lather (10)Ease of Rinse (11)3.884.555.215.415.417.107.007.007.00Slippery wet (12)4.105.054.964.114.113.335.565.755.11StabilityFail (13)Fail (14)Pass (15)Pass (15)Pass (15)Pass (15)Pass (15)Pass (15)Fail (14)
Notes:

(1) Merquat 3330 Nalco

(2) Merquat 550

(3) Rewopol SB F 12 P Degussa

(4) Amilite GCS-11L, Ajinomoto

(5) Prioly B-350N, KAO

(6) Prifrac 9559, Uniquema

(7) Ideal 2.5-3.5

(8) Ideal 6.5-7.5

(9) maximum is desired

(10) maximum is desired

(11) maximum is desired

(12) minimum is desired

(13) Separates after 1 week at approx. 25 C.

(14) Separates after 2 weeks at approx. 25 C.

(15) No separation for 3 years at approx. 25 C.


EXAMPLE 2

A series of inventive and comparative formulas F and J to P were made according to Table 2 using the procedure below in order to evaluate the effect of C12 Disodium Sulfosuccinate concentration on various sensory properties. The sensory properties were determined via trained panel testing using the procedure provided below and the results are summarized in Table 2. It was found that the inventive formulations provided overall superior sensory and stability properties compared to the comparative formulations.

TABLE 2JKLMFNOP(Comp)(Comp)(Inv.)(Inv.)(Inv.)(Inv.)(Comp)(Comp)Component% w/w% w/w% w/w% w/w% w/w% w/w% w/w% w/wWater DeionizedTo-100To-100To-100To-100To-100To-100To-100To-100Glycerin 95%40.0040.0040.0040.0040.0040.0040.0040.00Na2EDTA0.050.050.050.050.050.050.050.05Methyl Paraben0.200.200.200.200.200.200.200.20Polyquaternium-39, 10% (1)2.002.002.002.002.002.000.000.00Polyquaternium-7, 10% (2)0.20.20.20.20.20.20.000.00C12 Disodium2.504.006.007.008.009.0010.0011.00Sulfosuccinate 95% (3)Na Cocoyl Glycinate (4)3.003.003.003.003.003.003.003.00K mono alkyl3.003.003.003.003.003.000.000.00phosphate 35% (5)Propyl Paraben0.100.100.100.100.100.100.100.10Lauric acid4.004.004.004.004.004.004.004.00Palmitic acid0.700.700.700.700.700.700.700.70Stearic Acid (6)0.400.400.400.400.400.400.400.40Phenoxyethanol0.400.400.400.400.400.400.400.40Fragrance0.200.200.200.200.200.200.200.20Properties andpanel test data:Viscosity (cps) 25 C.1,5007,0709,40017,11033,60082,400211,000>10000000Ease of Pouring (7)9.158.335.192.332.723.441.650.75Thickness (8)2.173.615.376.097.107.479.159.75Amount of Lather (9)5.635.916.146.927.808.108.578.67Creaminess of3.664.336.456.757.257.707.336.66Lather (10)Ease of Rinse (11)8.668.578.316.927.106.755.103.81Slippery wet (12)3.463.533.613.353.333.403.774.03StabilityFail (13)Fail (14)Pass (15)Pass (15)Pass (15)Pass (15)Pass (15)Pass (15)
Notes:

(1) Merquat 3330 Nalco

(2) Merquat 550

(3) Rewopol SB F 12 P Degussa

(4) Amilite GCS-11L, Ajinomoto

(5) Prioly B-350N, KAO

(6) Prifrac 9559, Uniquema

(7) Ideal 2.5-3.5

(8) Ideal 6.5-7.5

(9) maximum is desired

(10) maximum is desired

(11) maximum is desired

(12) minimum is desired

(13) Separates after 1 day at approx. 25 C.

(14) Separates after 1 week at approx. 25 C.

(15) No separation for 3 years at approx. 25 C.


EXAMPLE 3

A series of inventive and comparative formulas F and Q to X were made according to Table 3 using the procedure below in order to evaluate the effect of sodium cocoyl glycinate concentration on various sensory properties. The sensory properties were determined via trained panel testing using the procedure provided below and the results are summarized in Table 3. It was found that the inventive formulations provided overall superior sensory and stability properties compared to the comparative formulations.

TABLE 3QRSFTUVWX(Comp)(Inv.)(Inv.)(Inv.)(Inv.)(Inv.)(Inv.)(Inv.)(Comp)Component% w/w% w/w% w/w% w/w% w/w% w/w% w/w% w/w% w/wWater DeionizedTo-100To-100To-100To-100To-100To-100To-100To-100To-100Glycerin 95%40.0040.0040.0040.0040.0040.0040.0040.0040.00Na2EDTA0.050.050.050.050.050.050.050.050.05Methyl Paraben0.200.200.200.200.200.200.200.200.20Polyquaternium-39, 10% (1)2.002.002.002.002.000.002.002.002.00Polyquaternium-7, 10% (2)0.20.20.20.20.20.20.20.20.2C12 Disodium8.008.008.008.008.008.008.008.008.00Sulfosuccinate 95% (3)Na Cocoyl Glycinate (4)0.501.502.003.004.005.007.008.0010.00K mono alkyl3.003.003.003.003.003.003.003.003.00phosphate 35% (5)Propyl Paraben0.100.100.100.100.100.100.100.100.10Lauric acid4.004.004.004.004.004.004.004.004.00Palmitic acid0.700.700.700.700.700.700.700.700.70Stearic Acid (6)0.400.400.400.400.400.400.400.400.40Phenoxyethanol0.400.400.400.400.400.400.400.400.40Fragrance0.200.200.200.200.200.200.200.200.20Properties andpanel test data:Viscosity (cps) 25 C.21,32128,44532,88033,600125,000140,433155,443378,199>1000000Ease of Pouring (7)4.444.373.632.722.853.495.135.875.82Thickness (8)5.715.876.137.107.387.437.998.338.31Amount of Lather (9)4.845.537.057.807.858.178.478.678.98Creaminess of5.356.16.77.257.397.446.97.27Lather (10)Ease of Rinse (11)6.466.526.957.103.453.944.574.983.97Slippery wet (12)5.755.134.213.333.123.254.233.734.01StabilityPass (13)Pass (13)Pass (13)Pass (13)Pass (13)Pass (13)Pass (13)Pass (13)Pass (13)
Notes:

(1) Merquat 3330 Nalco

(2) Merquat 550

(3) Rewopol SB F 12 P Degussa

(4) Amilite GCS-11L, Ajinomoto

(5) Prioly B-350N, KAO

(6) Prifrac 9559, Uniquema

(7) Ideal 2.5-3.5

(8) Ideal 6.5-7.5

(9) maximum is desired

(10) maximum is desired

(11) maximum is desired

(12) minimum is desired

(13) No separation for 3 years at approx. 25 C.


EXAMPLE 4

A series of inventive and comparative formulas F and Y to CC were made according to Table 4 using the procedure below in order to evaluate the effect potassium monoalkyl phosphate concentration on various sensory properties. The sensory properties were determined via trained panel testing using the procedure provided below and the results are summarized in Table 4. It was found that the inventive formulations provided overall superior sensory and stability properties compared to the comparative formulations.

TABLE 4YZFAABBCC(Comp)(Inv.)(Inv.)(Inv.)(Inv.)(Comp)Component% w/w% w/w% w/w% w/w% w/w% w/wWater DeionizedTo-100To-100To-100To-100To-100To-100Glycerin 95%40.0040.0040.0040.0040.0040.00Na2EDTA0.050.050.050.050.050.05Methyl Paraben0.200.200.200.200.200.20Polyquaternium-39, 10% (1)2.002.002.002.002.002.00Polyquaternium-7, 10% (2)0.20.20.200.20.20.2C12 Disodium8.008.008.008.008.008.00Sulfosuccinate 95% (3)Na Cocoyl Glycinate (4)3.003.003.003.003.003.00K mono alkyl1.002.003.004.505.006.00phosphate 35% (5)Propyl Paraben0.100.100.100.100.100.10Lauric acid4.004.004.004.004.004.00Palmitic acid0.700.700.700.700.700.70Stearic Acid (6)0.400.400.400.400.400.40Phenoxyethanol0.400.400.400.400.400.40Fragrance0.200.200.200.200.200.20Properties andpanel test data:Viscosity (cps) 25 C.50,10063,79933,60044,0008,9008,000Ease of Pouring (7)2.692.572.722.664.04.12Thickness (8)7.337.217.107.176.16.04Amount of Lather (9)6.786.837.807.947.897.93Creaminess of3.745.607.257.457.57.6Lather (10)Ease of Rinse (11)5.345.417.108.228.348.78Slippery wet (12)5.424.153.332.572.312.11StabilityPass (13)Pass (13)Pass (13)Pass (13)Pass (13)Fail (14)
Notes:

(1) Merquat 3330 Nalco

(2) Merquat 550

(3) Rewopol SB F 12 P Degussa

(4) Amilite GCS-11L, Ajinomoto

(5) Prioly B-350N, KAO

(6) Prifrac 9559, Uniquema

(7) Ideal 2.5-3.5

(8) Ideal 6.5-7.5

(9) maximum is desired

(10) maximum is desired

(11) maximum is desired

(12) minimum is desired

(13) No separation for 3 years at approx. 25 C.

(14) Separates after 1 week at approx. 25 C.


EXAMPLE 5

A series of inventive formulas LA and DD to HH were made according to Table 5 using the procedure below. It was found that the inventive formulations provided overall superior stability properties.

TABLE 5LADDEEFFGGHHComponents% w/w% w/w% w/w% w/w% w/w% w/wWater DeionizedTo-100To-100To-100To-100To-100To-100Glycerin 95%40.0040.0040.0040.0040.0040.00Na2EDTA0.050.050.050.050.050.05Polyquaternium-55 20% (1′)0.000.002.002.000.000.50Polyquaternium-39, 10% (1)2.002.000.000.002.002.00Polyquaternium-7, 10% (2)0.200.200.000.000.20.2C12 Disodium9.009.008.008.009.009.00Sulfosuccinate 95% (3)Na Cocoyl Glycinate (4)3.003.003.004.003.003.00K mono alkyl03.003.003.005.003.00phosphate 35% (5)Cocomonoethanolamide02.000.000.002.002.00Lauric acid4.004.004.004.004.004.00Palmitic acid0.700.700.700.700.700.70Stearic Acid (6)0.400.400.400.400.400.40TiO2 water dispersible0.000.000.000.000.050.05Preservative0.600.600.600.600.600.60Fragrance0.200.200.20.20.20.2Properties andpanel test data:Viscosity (cps) 25 C.43,00044,00050,20049,20085,60072,000StabilityPass (7)Pass (7)Pass (7)Pass (7)Pass (7)Pass (7)
(1′) Styleze W-20 ISP

(1) Merquat 3330 Nalco

(2) Merquat 550

(3) Rewopol SB F 12 P Degussa

(4) Amilite GCS-11L, Ajinomoto

(5) Prioly B-350N, KAO

(6) Prifrac 9559, Uniquema

(7) Stable for 3 years at 25 C.


EXAMPLE 6

A series of comparative and inventive formulas II to LL were made according to Table 6 using the procedure below. The sensory properties were determined via trained panel testing using the procedure provided below and the results are summarized in Table 6. It was found that the inventive formulations provided overall superior sensory and stability properties compared to the comparative formulations.

TABLE 6IIJJKKLL(Comp)(Comp)(Comp)(Inv.)Components% w/w% w/w% w/w% w/wWater DeionizedTo-100To-100To-100To-100Glycerin 95%40.0040.0040.0040.00Na2EDTA0.050.050.050.05Methyl Paraben0.200.200.200.20Polyquaternium-552.002.002.002.0020% (1′)Polyquaternium-39,0.000.000.000.0010% (1)Polyquaternium-7,0.000.000.000.0010% (2)C12 Disodium8.008.008.008.00Sulfosuccinate 95% (3)Na Cocoyl Glycinate0.000.003.003.00(4)K mono alkyl0.000.000.003.00phosphate 35% (5)Na Lauryl Sarcosinate18.000.000.000.00(Hamposyl - 30)Na Cocylamidopropyl0.008.000.000.00Betaine 30%Na lauryl amphoacetate0.000.006.000.00(Monoteric LM-30LC)SLES (Steol CS 270)0.003.000.005.0070%Propyl Paraben0.100.100.100.10Lauric acid4.004.004.004.00Palmitic acid0.700.700.700.70Stearic Acid (6)0.400.400.400.40Phenoxyethanol0.400.400.400.40Fragrance0.500.500.500.50Viscosity (cps) 25 C.24,00018,0001,50044,000Ease of Pouring (7)7.158.176.568.11Thickness (8)5.554.138.776.15Amount of Lather (9)4.827.007.007.00Creaminess of2.732.211.733.56Lather (10)Ease of Rinse (11)5.004.884.665.70Slippery wet (12)7.008.786.787.45StabilityFailFailFailFail(13)(14)(15)(16)
Notes:

(1) Merquat 3330 Nalco

(2) Merquat 550

(3) Rewopol SB F 12 P Degussa

(4) Amilite GCS-11L, Ajinomoto

(5) Prioly B-350N, KAO

(6) Prifrac 9559, Uniquema

(7) Ideal 2.5-3.5

(8) Ideal 6.5-7.5

(9) maximum is desired

(10) maximum is desired

(11) maximum is desired

(12) minimum is desired

(13) Separates after 1 week at approx. 25 C.

(14) Separates after 2 days at approx. 25 C.

(15) Separates after 1 day at approx. 25 C.

(16) Separates after 2 weeks at approx. 25 C.


Procedure for Sample Preparation for Examples 1 to 6:
    • 1 Weigh DI water, Glycerin, EDTA4Na and Glydant together in the main mixer and begin mixing and heating to 55 C.
    • 2 Add Merquat 3330 and Merquat 550 or Styleze to the main mixer when it reaches 55 C and hold for 15 min.
    • 3 Heat to 80 C slowly. Then slowly add C12 Disodium Sulfosuccinate, NA Coocyl Glycinate, and mono alkyl phosphate to the main mixer and mix until completely dissolved.
    • 4 Predisperse TiO2 with water and when predispersed add to the main mixer and blend in.
    • 5 Weigh fatty acids together and start heating and mixing until mixture reaches 80 C.
    • 6 Add fatty acid blend to the Main mixer and mix for 15 min at 70-80′ C.
    • 7 Cool down to 40′ C.
    • 8 Slowly add perfume
    • 9 Let stand overnight before filling containers.


      Methods:


      Panel Test Method for Sensory and Physical Properties


A panel is assembled of 10 persons and trained according to the following instructions and definitions. The assessments for each attribute of all the panelists are added and the average calculated and reported.


Wash your palm with unperfumed control soap (Ivory® soap available from Procter and Gamble or its equivalent) and wet your face with water as required. Then provide individual assessments of test samples by selecting a value from the following numerical scales that most closely applies.

Before use1. Ease of pouring from container.embedded image2. Thicknessembedded image


Pour the product (about 1 ml) onto the palm.


Pour one teaspoonful of water onto the palm and dilute it 20 times with additional water.


Make a lather between hands by rubbing hands together 10 times to evaluate the ease of lathering.


Pour one teaspoonful of water onto palm and rub hands together again 30 times to evaluate amount of lather and rub hands together 10 times to evaluate the creaminess of lather. Then provide individual assessments of test samples by selecting a value from the following numerical scales that most closely applies.

Product in palm3. Ease of diluting with waterembedded image4. Ease of latheringembedded image5. Lather amountembedded image6. Creaminess of latherembedded image


Start washing the face with the pre-lathered product until it feels it is time to rinse. Then provide individual assessments of test samples by selecting a value from the following numerical scales that most closely applies.

Product on face 7. Ease of spreadingembedded image 8. Stickinessembedded image 9. Slipperyembedded image10. Lather amountembedded image


Rinse your face with water as needed until you feel it is time to dry it. Then provide individual assessments of test samples by selecting a value from the following numerical scales that most closely applies.

While rinsing11. Ease of rinseembedded image















wet skin feel















12. Slippery







embedded image







13. Dragginess







embedded image







14. Cleanness







embedded image







15. Freshness







embedded image











Dry the face with paper towel.


Wait for 2 minutes.


Then provide individual assessments of test samples by selecting a value from the following numerical scales that most closely applies.

DRY SKIN FEEL16. Drynessembedded image17. Smoothnessembedded image18. Tightnessembedded image19. Pleasantembedded image


ATTRIBUTE DEFINITIONS FOR PANEL TESTING

Before Using the Product


1. Ease of pouring






    • Difficult: It is difficult to dispense the product when pouring it from the container

    • Easy: It is easy to dispense the product when pouring it from the container.


      2. Thickness

    • Thin: The appearance of the product is like water.

    • Thick: The appearance of the product is like honey.


      When Product is Used on the Palm


      3. Ease of Diluting with Water

    • Difficult: The product is difficult to mix with water.

    • Easy: The product is easy to mix with water.


      4. Ease of Lathering

    • Difficult: It takes a long time to lather between the hands.

    • Easy: It takes a short time to lather between the hands.


      5. Amount of Lather

    • No lather: No lather appears when you rub the product between the hands

    • Copious of lather: Copious lather appears when you rub the product between the hands.


      6. Creaminess of Lather

    • Not creamy: The appearance of the lather consists of large and/or coarse bubbles.

    • Creamy: The appearance of the lather appears creamy with fine uniformly sized bubbles.


      When Use the Product is Used on the Arms


      7. Ease of spreading the product

    • Difficult: The product is difficult to distribute all over the forearm.

    • Easy The product is easy to distribute all over the forearm.


      8. Stickiness of the Product

    • Not sticky: It is easy to lift fingers from the skin.

    • Sticky: Resistance is felt when fingers are lifted from the skin.


      9. Slippery

    • Not slippery: There is noticeable resistance felt when the skin is rubbed with fingertips

    • Slippery: There is no noticeable resistance felt when the skin is rubbed with fingertips


      10. Amount of Lather

    • No lather: No lather appears when the arms are rubbed with the hands.

    • Copious lather: Copious lather appears when the arms are rubbed with the hands.


      When Rinsing the Arms


      11. Ease of Rinse

    • Difficult: A great deal of water is required to remove product from the skin.

    • Easy: Only a small amount of water is required to remove product from the skin.


      Wet Skin Feel


      12. Slippery

    • Not slippery: resistance to motion is felt when the skin is stroked with finger tips.

    • Slippery: no resistance to motion is felt when the skin is stroked with finger tips.


      13. Dragginess

    • Not draggy: no resistance to motion is felt when the skin is stroked with finger tips.

    • Draggy: resistance to motion is felt when the skin is stroked with finger tips.


      14. Cleanliness

    • Not clean: Sensation that dirt has not been completely removed from the skin.

    • Clean: Sensation that dirt has been completely removed from the skin.


      15. Freshness

    • Not fresh: The feeling as if the skin is tired.

    • Fresh: The feeling as if the skin is on a mountaintop.


      Dry Skin Feel


      16. Dryness

    • Not dry: The skin feels supple and moist.

    • Dry: The skin feels completely dry.


      17. Smoothness

    • Not smooth: resistance to motion is felt when the skin is stroked with finger tips.

    • Smooth: the skin feels like silk when the skin is stroked with finger tips.


      18. Tightness

    • Tight: The skin feels as if it has shrunk across the face.


      19. Pleasant

    • Pleasant: A combined feeling of satisfaction and comfort is felt.





Stability Method:


Samples may be stored at the following conditions and evaluated at the following evaluation points.

EvaluationConditionTimeEvaluationsPointsApprox. 25 C.12 weeks toViscosity,Initial3 yearsVisual1 day1, 2, 4, 8, 12weeks, 3 years.40 C.12 weeksVisual only1, 2, 4, 8, 12weeks50 C.1 weekViscosity,1 weekVisual−9 C./25 C.3 cyclesViscosity,1 weekcycle (24 hours(6 days)Visualat each temp.)
Viscosity: Measured by the method indicated for each example

Visual evaluation: color, odor, and appearance


A sample is considered stable if its viscosity and visual evaluation do not change significantly (i.e. greater than 20% relative) from the initial measurements at all conditions.


T-Bar Viscosity Measurement


Scope:


This method covers the measurement of the viscosity of a preferred embodiment of the invention that has an ordered liquid crystalline phase.


Apparatus:






    • Brookfield RVT Viscometer with Helipath Accessory;

    • Chuck, weight and closer assembly for T-bar attachment;

    • T-bar Spindle A;

    • Plastic cups diameter greater than 2.5 inches.


      Procedure:

    • 1. Verify that the viscometer and the helipath stand are level by referring to the bubble levels on the back of the instrument.

    • 2. connect the chuck/closer/weight assembly to the Viscometer (Note the left-hand coupling threads).

    • 3. Clean Spindle A with deionized water and pat dry with a Kimwipe sheet. Slide the spindle in the closer and tighten.

    • 4. Set the rotational speed at 0.5 RPM. In case of a digital viscometer (DV) select the % mode and press autozero with the motor switch on.

    • 5. Place the product in a plastic cup with inner diameter of greater than 2.5 inches. The height of the product in the cup should be at least 3 inches. The temperature of the product should be 25° C.

    • 6. Lower the spindle into the product (˜¼ inches). Set the adjustable stops of the helipath stand so that the spindle does not touch the bottom of the plastic cup or come out of the sample.

    • 7. Start the viscometer and allow the dial to make one or two revolutions before turning on the Helipath stand. Note the dial reading as the helipath stand passes the middle of its downward traverse.

    • 8. Multiply the dial reading by a factor of 4,000 and report the viscosity reading in cps.





While this invention has been described with respect to particular embodiments thereof, it is apparent that numerous other forms and modifications of the invention will be obvious to those skilled in the art. The appended claims and this invention generally should be construed to cover all such obvious forms and modifications which are within the true spirit and scope of the present invention.

Claims
  • 1. A cleansing composition comprising: a. about 30 to 54% by wt. of total polyol(s); b. about 5 to 10% by wt. of total normal C10 to C16 mono alkyl sulfosuccinate(s), and c. about 0.6 to 9% by wt. of N-acyl amino acid(s) or salt(s) of such acid(s) or a blend there of.
  • 2. The composition of claim 1 further comprising at least about 2 to 5% by wt. of total normal C8 to C24 mono alkyl phosphate(s);
  • 3. The composition of claim 1 further comprising at least about 15% by wt. of water.
  • 4. The composition of claim 2 wherein the ratio of total mono alkyl sulfosuccinate(s) to total mono alkyl phosphate(s) is in the range of about 1:10 to about 10:1.
  • 5. The composition of claim 1 wherein the ratio of total mono alkyl sulfosuccinate(s) to total N-acyl amino acid surfactant(s) is in the range of about 1:10:to about 10:1.
  • 6. The composition of claim 1 wherein the polyol(s) is/are selected from glycerin, diglycerin, ethoxylated glycerin, propoxylated glycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol hexylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol or 1,2,6-hexanetriol or blends thereof.
  • 7. The composition of claim 1 wherein the monoalkyl sulfosuccinate(s) is/are selected from C10, C12 or C14 monoalkyl sulfosuccinate(s) or blends thereof.
  • 8. The composition of claim 2 wherein the mono alkyl phosphate(s) can be in either the acid or neutralized form and where the alkyl group is in the range of C6 to C20.
  • 9. The composition of claim 1 wherein the N-acyl amino acid surfactant(s) has/have alkyl chain length(s) in the range of C8 to C16.
  • 10. The composition of claim 1 wherein the viscosity is in the range of about 5,000 to 1,000,000 cps at 25 C as measured via the T-bar method.
  • 11. The composition of claim 1 further comprising about 0.1% to 15% by wt. of an ordered liquid crystalline phase inducing structurant inducing a liquid crystalline phase in said composition.
  • 12. A composition according to claim 11 wherein the ordered liquid crystalline phase cleansing composition is a lamellar composition.
  • 13. A composition according to claim 11 wherein the ordered liquid crystalline phase inducing structurant is selected from a C8 to C24 alkenyl or branched alkyl fatty acid or ester thereof, a C8 to C24 alkenyl or branched alkyl alcohol or ether thereof, a C5 to C14 linear alkyl fatty acid, trihydroxystearin, or derivatives or mixtures thereof.
  • 14. A composition according to claim 13 wherein the ordered liquid crystalline phase inducing structurant is selected from lauric acid, oleic acid, palm kernel acid, palm fatty acid, coconut acid, isostearic acid, or derivatives or mixtures thereof.
  • 15. A composition according to claim 1 further comprising cationic polymer(s) in a total concentration of greater than about 0.1% by wt.
  • 16. The composition of claim 1 further comprising less than about 4% by wt. of total tri- and diglyceride oil(s).
  • 17. The composition of claim 1 further comprising less than about 1% by wt. of dialkylene glycol(s).
  • 18. The composition of claim 1 further comprising less than about 5% by wt. of soap(s).
  • 19. A method for cleansing the skin or hair with a quick rinsing cleansing composition according to claim 1 having durable lather, comprising the steps of: a. applying the durable lathering composition to the skin or hair; d. rinsing the composition from the skin or hair; and e. drying the skin or hair.