Patent Application
20250136813
The present invention relates to compositions comprising (1) at least one silicone acrylate copolymer and (2) at least one T-modified silicone resin. Among other improved or beneficial properties, these compositions have surprisingly good properties such as minimal or no flaking or cracking, good oil- and/or water-resistance, and/or good transfer-resistance properties after application.
Many cosmetic compositions, including pigmented cosmetics such as foundations, mascaras and lipsticks, have been formulated in an attempt to possess long wearing properties upon application. Unfortunately, many of these compositions do not generally possess good long-wear/transfer-resistance properties as well as good application properties, good comfort properties and/or good appearance or stability properties (for example, consistency or uniformity in color over time).
For example, with respect to lip compositions, commercial products containing silicon resins such as MQ resins are known. Such products are known to provide good long wear properties and/or transfer-resistance. However, such products possess poor application properties and/or poor feel upon application (for example, feels rough). Therefore, a second composition (topcoat) is separately applied to such products to improve poor properties of the compositions to make the products acceptable to consumers. Furthermore, the topcoat composition must be reapplied continually so that the product remains acceptable to consumers, meaning that the products are effectively not “long-wearing” as they require constant maintenance and reapplication.
U.S. Patent Application Nos.: 2020/0283628 and 2020/0283629 relate compositions containing MQ resin having certain silanol requirements.
U.S. Pat. No. 10,744,074 relates to compositions capable of forming a multilayer structure after application which can contain silicone acrylates as well as other silicone compounds.
U.S. Patent Application No.: 2021/0401723 relates to compositions capable of forming a multilayer structure after application which can contain T-modified MQ resin.
U.S. Patent Application No.: 2020/0332065 relates to compositions containing glycerolated silicone resins.
There remains a need for improved compositions having improved cosmetic properties, particularly good properties such as minimal or no flaking or cracking, good oil- and/or water-resistance, and/or good transfer-resistance properties after application.
Accordingly, one aspect of the present invention is a care and/or makeup and/or treatment composition for keratinous materials which has good cosmetic properties such as, for example, good properties such as minimal or no flaking or cracking, good oil- and/or water-resistance, and/or good transfer-resistance properties after application.
The present invention relates to compositions comprising (1) at least one silicone acrylate copolymer and (2) at least one T-modified silicone resin. Preferably, such compositions further contain at least one MQ silicone resin and/or at least one glycerolated silicone resin. Also preferably, such compositions are liquid.
The present invention also relates to anhydrous compositions comprising (1) at least one silicone acrylate copolymer and (2) at least one T-modified silicone resin. Preferably, such compositions further contain at least one MQ silicone resin and/or at least one glycerolated silicone resin. Also preferably, such compositions are liquid.
The present invention also relates to colored compositions comprising (1) at least one coloring agent, (2) at least one silicone acrylate copolymer and (3) at least one T-modified silicone resin. Preferably, such compositions further contain at least one MQ silicone resin and/or at least one glycerolated silicone resin. Also preferably, such compositions are liquid.
The present invention also relates to methods of treating, caring for and/or making up keratinous materials such as, for example, lips, skin or eyelashes, by applying compositions of the present invention to a keratinous material in an amount sufficient to treat, care for and/or make up the keratinous material.
The present invention also relates to methods of enhancing the appearance of keratinous materials such as, for example, lips, skin or eyelashes, by applying compositions of the present invention to a keratinous material in an amount sufficient to enhance the appearance of the keratinous material.
It is to be understood that both the foregoing general description and the following detailed description are exemplary/explanatory only and that they are not restrictive of the invention.
In the following description of the invention and the claims appended hereto, it is to be understood that the terms used have their ordinary and accustomed meanings in the art, unless otherwise specified.
“About” as used herein means within 10% of the indicated number (e.g., “about 10%” means 9%-11% and “about 2%” means 1.8%-2.2%).
“A” or “an” as used herein means “at least one.”
“At least one” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
As used herein, all ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of subranges between, the given ranges. Thus, a range from 1-5, includes specifically 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as subranges such as and 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc.
“Film former”, “film-forming polymer” or “film-forming agent” as used herein means a polymer or resin that leaves a film on the substrate to which it is applied, for example, after a solvent accompanying the film former has evaporated, absorbed into and/or dissipated on the substrate.
“Wax” as used herein is a lipophilic fatty compound that is solid at ambient temperature (25° C.) and changes from the solid to the liquid state reversibly, having a melting temperature of more than 30° C. and, for example, more than 45° C., and a hardness of more than 0.5 MPa at ambient temperature.
“Surfactant” and “emulsifier” are used interchangeably throughout this specification.
“Polymer” as used herein means a compound which is made up of at least two monomers.
“Keratinous materials” includes materials containing keratin such as hair, skin, eyebrows, lips and nails.
“Substituted” as used herein (unless otherwise indicated), means comprising at least one substituent. Non-limiting examples of substituents include atoms, such as oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, such as hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalky groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulphonate groups, thiosulphate groups, siloxane groups, hydroxyalkyl groups, and polysiloxane groups. The substituent(s) may be further substituted.
“Volatile”, as used herein, means having a flash point of less than about 100° C.
“Non-volatile”, as used herein, means having a flash point of greater than about 100° C.
“Anhydrous” means the compositions contain less than 1% water. Preferably, the compositions of the present invention contain less than 0.5% water, and preferably no water (free of water).
“Transfer” as used herein refers to the displacement of a fraction of a composition which has been applied to a keratinous material by contact with another substrate, whether of the same nature or of a different nature. For example, when a composition such as a liquid lipstick has been applied, the composition can be transferred onto teeth or hands, or onto the cheek of another person. Irrespective of composition type, the composition can also transfer from the keratinous material to which it has been applied to another substrate such as napkins, collars, glasses, cups or other containers.
“Transfer-resistance” as used herein refers to the quality exhibited by a composition in resisting transfer. To determine transfer-resistance, the amount of composition transferred from a keratinous material to a substrate may be evaluated and compared. For example, a composition may be transfer-resistant if, after application to a keratinous material such as lips, skin or eyelashes and contact with a substrate, a majority of the composition is left on the wearer. Further, the amount transferred may be compared with that transferred by other compositions, such as commercially-available compositions. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, little or no composition is transferred to the substrate from the keratinous material.
“Long wear” compositions as used herein refers to compositions where the compositions, after application to a keratinous material, do not transfer or smudge after contact with another substrate and retain a consistent appearance on the keratinous material for an extended period of time. “Long wear” compositions, as used herein can also refer to compositions where color remains the same or substantially the same as at the time of application, as viewed by the naked eye, after an extended period of time. Long wear properties may be evaluated by any method known in the art for evaluating such properties. For example, long wear may be evaluated by a test involving the application of a composition to keratinous materials such as skin, eyelashes or lips and evaluating the color of the composition after an extended period of time. For example, the color of a composition may be evaluated immediately following application to the keratinous material and these characteristics may then be re-evaluated and compared after a certain amount of time. Further, these characteristics may be evaluated with respect to other compositions, such as commercially available compositions. Additionally, long wear properties may be evaluated by applying a sample, allowing it to dry, and then abrading the sample to determine removal/loss of sample.
The composition of the present invention may be in any form, either liquid or non-liquid (semi-solid, soft solid, solid, etc.). For example, it may be a paste, a solid, a gel, or a cream. It may be an emulsion, such as an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, a multiple emulsion, such as an oil-in-water-in-oil emulsion or a water-in-oil-in-water emulsion, or a solid, rigid or supple gel. The composition of the invention may, for example, comprise an external or continuous fatty phase.
“Free” or “substantially free” or “devoid of” as it is used herein means that while it is preferred that no amount of the specific component be present in the composition, it is possible to have very small amounts of it in the compositions of the invention provided that these amounts do not materially affect at least one, preferably most, of the advantageous properties of the compositions of the invention. Thus, for example, “free of animal-derived ingredients” means that an effective amount (that is, more than trace amounts) of animal-derived ingredient(s) is/are omitted from the composition (that is, about 0% by weight), “substantially free of animal-derived ingredients” means that animal-derived ingredient(s) is/are present in amounts not greater than 0.1% by weight, and “devoid of animal-derived ingredients” means that animal-derived ingredient(s) is/are present in amounts not greater than 0.25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Also, for example, “free of surfactant” means that an effective amount of surfactant is omitted from the composition (that is, about 0% by weight), “substantially free of surfactant” means that surfactant is present in amounts not greater than 0.1% by weight, and “devoid of surfactant” means that surfactant is present in amounts not greater than 0.25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The same nomenclature applies for all other ingredients identified throughout the application and in this paragraph such as, for example, wax (compositions of the invention which are “free of wax,” “substantially free of wax,” and “devoid of wax” have meanings consistent with the discussion within this paragraph), even if not specifically discussed for each identified ingredient. Discussed examples of the use of such language such as those in this paragraph are intended to be exemplary, not limiting.
“Physiologically acceptable” means compatible with keratinous material and having a pleasant color, odor and feel, and which does not cause any unacceptable discomfort liable to discourage a consumer from using the composition. Acceptable pH levels for compositions of the present invention are preferably acidic, that is, less than 7, preferably 6.5 or less, preferably 6.0 or less, preferably 5.5 or less, including all ranges and subranges therebetween such as, for example 3 to 5, 4 to 6, 3 to 4.5, etc. Compositions of the present invention may be in the form of a gel composition.
“Natural compound” refers to any compound derived directly from a natural substance such as a plant without having undergone any chemical modification.
“Compound of natural origin” refers to any compound derived from a natural compound which has undergone one or more chemical modifications, for example by organic synthesis reaction, without the properties of the natural compound having been modified.
“Synthetic compound” refers to any compound which is not a natural compound or a compound of natural origin.
“Room temperature” means 25° C.
“Atmospheric pressure” means 760 mmHg, i.e. 105 pascals.
“Liquid” means a composition which can conform to a container into which it is placed.
The compositions and methods of the present invention can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the invention described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful. For example, the film forming system or film forming component can consist essentially of (1) at least one silicone acrylate copolymer, (2) at least one T-modified silicone resin, and (3) optionally at least one MQ silicone resin and/or at least one glycerolated silicone resin. Similarly, the oil system or oil component can consist essentially of, or consist of, silicone oils, or volatile oils.
For purposes of the present invention, the “basic and novel property” associated with compositions, components and methods which “consist essentially of” identified ingredients or actions is “combined long wear and flexibility.”
Referred to herein are trade names for materials including, but not limited to polymers and optional components. The inventors herein do not intend to be limited by materials described and referenced by a certain trade name. Equivalent materials (e.g., those obtained from a different source under a different name or catalog (reference) number) to those referenced by trade name may be substituted and utilized in the methods described and claimed herein.
All percentages and ratios are calculated by weight unless otherwise indicated. All percentages are calculated based on the total weight of a composition unless otherwise indicated. All component or composition levels are in reference to the active level of that component or composition, and are exclusive of impurities, for example, residual solvents or by-products, which may be present in commercially available sources.
All U.S. patents or patent applications disclosed herein are expressly incorporated by reference in their entirety.
According to the present invention, compositions including at least one silicone acrylate copolymer are provided. Silicone acrylate copolymers are polymers containing siloxane group(s) and hydrocarbon group(s). For example, suitable polymers include polymers comprising a hydrocarbon backbone such as, for example, a backbone chosen from vinyl polymers, methacrylic polymers, and/or acrylic polymers and at least one chain chosen from pendant siloxane groups, and polymers comprising a backbone of siloxane groups and at least one pendant hydrocarbon chain such as, for example, pendant vinyl, methacrylic and/or acrylic group(s). Suitable silicone acrylate copolymers can comprise at least about 10%, 20%, 30%, 40%, 50%, 60%, 70%, 80%, or 90% silicone (siloxane groups) by weight, and can comprise at least about 10%, 20%, 30%, 40%, 50%, 60%, 70%, 80%, or 90% acrylate (hydrocarbon groups) by weight.
The at least one silicone acrylate copolymer can be chosen from silicone/(meth)acrylate copolymers, such as those as described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,061,481, 5,219,560, and 5,262,087, and U.S. Patent Application No.: 2012/0301415, the entire contents of all of which are hereby incorporated by reference.
The at least one silicone acrylate copolymer may be selected from polymers derived from non-polar silicone copolymers comprising repeating units of at least one polar (meth)acrylate unit and vinyl copolymers grafted with at least one non-polar silicone chain. Non-limiting examples of non-dendrimer copolymers are acrylates/dimethicone copolymers such as those commercially available from Shin-Etsu, for example, the products sold under the tradenames KP-545 (cyclopentasiloxane (and) acrylates/dimethicone copolymer), KP-543 (butyl acetate (and) acrylates/dimethicone copolymer), KP-549 (methyl trimethicone (and) acrylates/dimethicone copolymer), KP-550 (INCI name: isododecane (and) acrylate/dimethicone copolymer), KP-561 (acrylates/stearyl acrylate/dimethicone acrylates copolymer), KP-562 (acrylates/behenyl acrylate/dimethicone acrylates copolymer), and mixtures thereof. Additional examples include the acrylate/dimethicone dendrimer copolymers sold by Dow Corning under the tradenames FA 4001 CM SILICONE ACRYLATE (cyclopentasiloxane (and) acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer) and FA 4002 ID SILICONE ACRYLATE (isododecane (and) acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer), and mixtures thereof.
Further non-limiting examples of such polymers and their synthesis are disclosed, for example, in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,972,037, 5,061,481, 5,209,924, 5,849,275, and 6,033,650, and PCT Application Nos.: WO 93/23446, WO 95/06078 and WO 01/32737, the disclosures of all of which are hereby incorporated by reference. These polymers may be sourced from various companies. One such company is Minnesota Mining and Manufacturing Company which offers these types of polymers under the tradenames “Silicone Plus” polymers (for example, poly(isobutyl methacrylate-co-methyl FOSEA)-g-poly(dimethylsiloxane), sold under the tradename SA 70-5 IBMMF).
Other non-limiting examples of useful silicone acrylate copolymers include silicone/acrylate graft terpolymers, for example, the copolymers described in PCT Application No.: WO 01/32727, the disclosure of which is hereby incorporated by reference.
Other useful polymers can include those described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,468,477, the disclosure of which is hereby incorporated by reference. A non-limiting example of these polymers is poly(dimethylsiloxane)-g-poly(isobutyl methacrylate), which is commercially available from 3M Company under the tradename VS 70 IBM.
The silicone acrylate copolymer preferably is present in the compositions of the present invention in an active solid content amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 25%, preferably from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 1.5% to about 15%, preferably from about 2% to about 10%, and preferably from about 2.5% to about 7.5%, by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween. It is to be understood that acceptable ranges of silicone acrylate copolymer present in invention compositions include 3%-6%, 2%-10%, 1-5%, 15%-25%, 15%-20%, 10%-20%, etc., by weight based on the weight of the composition.
In accordance with the present invention, compositions comprising at least one T-modified silicone resin are provided. The term “T-modified silicone resin” is understood to mean a silicone resin which comprises, in its chemical structure, one or more trifunctional units (T units) as well as one or more other units (M, D and/or Q) as described with respect to silicone resin nomenclature in this application. Preferably, the at least one T-modified silicone resin comprises at least two of these units, most preferably at least three of these units, with resins containing M, T and Q units being most preferred.
Silicone resin nomenclature is known in the art as “MDTQ” nomenclature, whereby a silicone resin is described according to the various monomeric siloxane units which make up the polymer. Each letter of “MDTQ” denotes a different type of unit. Tri-functional units (or T units) are part of this known nomenclature.
According to preferred embodiments, the at least one T-modified silicone resin is based on a siloxysilicate resin. One non-limiting example of such a siloxysilicate resin is trimethylsiloxysilicate (MQ), which may be represented by the following formula:
[(CH3)3SiO]x(SiO4/2)y
According to preferred embodiments, the at least one T-modified silicone resin is a T-modified MQ resin in which at least one of the methyl groups of the M unit is replaced by a T unit. Suitable T units for such replacements include, but are not limited to, polysilsesquioxanes of formula ((R)SiO3/2)x (T units) in which x is greater than 100, in which the R groups may independently be C1-C8 alkyl groups, such as substituted or unsubstituted C1-C8, branched or linear, lower alkyl groups such as, for example, methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, etc., with preferred groups being C1-C6 groups, preferably C1-C4 groups, preferably C1-C3 groups, and/or C3-C8 cyclic groups such as, for example, substituted or unsubstituted phenyl groups or C5-C6 groups cycloalkyl groups: polymethylsilsesquioxanes which are polysilsesquioxanes in which R is a methyl group; polypropylsilsesquioxanes in which R is a propyl group; and polyphenylsilsesquioxanes in which R is a phenyl group. Preferably, the MQ resin is modified with one or more polymethylsilsesquioxanes. An example of such a T-modified MQ resin is GRANRESIN MQI-T50 from Grant Industries.
According to preferred embodiments of the invention, the at least one T-modified silicone resin is preferably present in an active solid content amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 25%, preferably from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 1.5% to about 15%, preferably from about 2% to about 10%, and preferably from about 2.5% to about 7.5%, by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween. It is to be understood that acceptable ranges of T-modified silicone resin present in invention compositions include 3%-6%, 2%-10%, 1-5%, 15%-25%, 15%-20%, 10%-20%, etc., by weight based on the weight of the composition.
Preferably, the weight ratio of active material of (1) silicone acrylate copolymer to (2) T-modified silicone resin is from about 7:1 to about 1:7, from about 5:1 to about 1:5, from about 3:1 to about 1:3, and from about 2:1 to about 1:2 including any ratio ranges therein such as about 1:1 and/or which can be discerned by using the amounts of ingredients in the examples of this application as and endpoint of a range. Preferably, more silicone acrylate copolymer is present in the compositions of the present invention than T-modified silicone resin.
MQ Silicone Resin and/or Glycerolated Silicone Resin
In accordance with preferred embodiments of the present invention, compositions optionally further comprising at least one MQ silicone resin and/or at least one glycerolated silicone resin are provided. In accordance with such preferred embodiments, compositions of the present invention comprise a film forming component comprising, consisting of, or consisting essentially of at least one silicone acrylate copolymer, at least one T-modified silicone resin, and at least one MQ silicone resin and/or at least one glycerolated silicone resin. Accordingly, film forming components of these preferred embodiments can contain, for example, any number of silicone acrylate copolymers, T-modified silicone resins, and MQ and/or glycerolated silicone resins such as from 1 to 10 such copolymers/resins, 1-5 such resins/copolymers, 1-3 such resins/copolymers, etc.
The term “MQ silicone resin” is understood to mean a resin which (1) comprises, in its chemical structure, only monomeric siloxane units M and Q which make up the polymer and (2) does not comprise glycerolation. Such resins are distinct from t-modified silicone resins which contain T units as discussed above and from glycerolated silicone resins which contain monoglycerol or polyglycerol group(s) as discussed below.
The term “glycerolated silicone resin” is understood to mean a resin which comprises, in its chemical structure, one or more monoglycerol or polyglycerol group(s).
As examples of suitable MQ silicone resins, mention may be made of the alkyl siloxysilicates of formula [(R1)3SiO1/2]x(SiO4/2)y (units MQ) in which x and y are integers from 20 to 200, preferably from 40 to 150, and preferably from 50 to 80, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, and such that the group R1 represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a hydroxyl group, preferably a methyl group.
Suitable MQ silicone resins include MQ resins such as trimethylsiloxysilicates represented by the following formula:
[(CH3)3SiO]x(SiO4/2)y
As examples of silicone resins of MQ type of trimethyl siloxysilicate type, mention may be made of those sold under the reference SR1000 by the company Momentive Performance Materials, under the reference MQ 1600 by Dow Corning or under the reference Belsil TMS 803 by the company Wacker.
As further examples of silicone resins of comprising MQ siloxysilicate units, mention may also be made of phenylalkyl siloxysilicate resins, such as phenylpropyldimethyl siloxysilicate (Silshine 151 sold by the company Momentive Performance Materials). The preparation of such resins is described especially in patent U.S. Pat. No. 5,817,302, the entire contents of which is hereby incorporated by reference.
The glycerolated silicone resin(s) can be preferably chosen from those of following formula (1):
(R13SiO1/2)a(R2(CH3)2SiO1/2)b(R12SiO1/2)c(R2SiO2/2)(R1SiO3/2)e(SiO4/2)f (1)
—(CH2)2—ClH2i—O—(CH2CH(OH)CH2O)iR4 (2)
[Chem 3]
—(CH2)—CmH2m—(SiOR12)j—SiR13 (3)
[Chem 4]
—(CH2)2—CmH2m—SiR1k1—(OSiR13)3-k1, (4)
[Chem 5]
—(CH2)2—CmH2m—SiR1k1—(OSiR1k2(OSiR13)3-k2)3-k1 (5)
[Chem 6]
—(CH2)2—CmH2m—SiR1k1—(OSiR1k2(OSiR1k3(OSiR13)3-k3)3-k2)3-k1 (6)
The glycerolated silicone resins according to the invention are described in the Patent Application No.: US 2020/0332065 A1 of SHIN-ETSU.
According to a specific embodiment, the glycerolated silicone resin(s) of formula (1) as defined above are chosen from those for which
According to a specific embodiment, the glycerolated silicone resin(s) of formula (1) are in the solid form at 25° C. when the index c satisfies the condition 0<c≤400 and R3 is a group of general formula (3) where the index j satisfies the condition 0≤j≤10.
According to a specific embodiment, the glycerolated silicone resin(s) exhibit a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 100 000.
The glycerolated silicone resin(s) according to the invention are amphiphilic, that is to say exhibit two parts of different polarities. In general, one is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oily phase). The other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). They are characterized by the value of their HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance), the HLB being the ratio of the hydrophilic part to the lipophilic part in the molecule. The term HLB is well known to a person skilled in the art and is described, for example, in “The HLB System. A Time-Saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection” published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984). The value of the HLB of the glycerolated silicone resins according to the invention preferably varies from 0.1 to 15 according to the Griffin method.
The glycerolated silicone resin(s) according to the invention can be obtained by a preparation process comprising the stage of hydrosilylation
(R13SiO1/2)aHnR13-nSiO1/2)b+c(R12SiO2/2)d(R1SiO3/2)e(SiO4/2)f (7)
CH2═CH—ClH2i—O—(CH2CH(OH)CH2O)iR4 (8)
[Chem 9]
CH2═CH—CmH2m—(SiOR12)—SiR13 (9)
[Chem 10]
CH2═CH—CmH2m—SiR1k1—(OSiR13)3-k1 (10)
[Chem 11]
CH2═CH—CmH2m—SiR1k1—(OSiR1k2(OSiR13)3-k2)3-k1 (11)
[Chem 12]
CH2—CH—CmH2m-SiR1k1(OSiR1k2(OSiR1k3(OSiR13)3-k3)3-k2)3-k2)3-k1) (12)
The hydrosilylation reaction is carried out in the presence, for example, of a platinum or rhodium catalyst. The preferred ranges for b, c, d, e, f, R4, l, m, i, j and k1 to k3 are as defined above.
A specific example of process for the preparation of the glycerolated silicone resin according to the invention is described below.
As mentioned above, the glycerolated silicone resin according to the invention can be obtained by the stage of hydrosilylation
(R13SiO1/2)a(HnR13-nSiO1/2)b+c(R12SiO2/2)d(R1SiO3/2)e(SiO4/2)f (7)
CH2═CH—ClH2i—O—(CH2CH(OH)CH2O)iR4 (8)
CH2—CH—CmH2m—(SiOR12)j—SiR13 (9)
CH2—CH—CmH2m—SiR1k1—(OSiR13)3-k1 (10)
CH2═CH—CmH2m—SiR1k1—(OSiR1k2(OSiR13)3-k2)3-k1 (11)
CH2—CH—CmH2m—SiR1k1—(OSiR1k2(OSiR1k3(OSiR13)3-k3)3-k2)3-k1 (12)
The organosilicon resin containing hydrosilyl groups of mean composition formula (7) and the compound having terminal alkenyl groups of general formula (8), (9), (10), (11) or (12) are mixed in a molar ratio, expressed as hydrosilyl groups/terminal unsaturated groups, which is preferably from 0.5 to 2.0 and more preferentially from 0.8 to 1.2.
The addition reaction is preferably carried out in the presence of a platinum or rhodium catalyst. Specific examples include chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid modified by an alcohol and chloroplatinic acid/vinylsiloxane complexes. When an excessive amount of catalyst is included, a discoloration of the sample is produced, and thus the amount of platinum or of rhodium is preferably 50 ppm or less and more preferably 20 ppm or less.
In addition, if necessary, the addition reaction can be carried out in the presence of an organic solvent. Mention may be made, among the examples of organic solvent, of cyclic organopolysiloxanes, such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane; aromatic hydrocarbons, such as toluene and xylene; solvents of ketone type, such as acetone, methyl ethyl ketone, diethyl ketone and methyl isobutyl ketone; aliphatic hydrocarbons, such as hexane, heptane, octane and cyclohexane; and aliphatic alcohols, such as methanol, ethanol, 1-propanel, 2-propanol, 1-butanol, 2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-butanol, 2-methyl-2-propanol, 1-pentanol, 2-methylbutanol, 2-pentanol, 1-hexanol, 2-methylpentanol, 1-heptanol, 1-octanol, 1-nonanol, 1-decanol, phenol, benzyl alcohol, ethylene glycol and 1,2-propylene glycol. From the viewpoint of the reactivity, ethanol, 1-propanol and 2-propanol are preferred.
The amount of solvent used is preferably from 1% to 80% and more preferably from 5% to 50% of the overall reaction system. In the above range, the reaction system is kept uniform and the reaction takes place efficiently.
The conditions of the addition reaction are not particularly limited, although heating at reflux at a temperature of between 5° and 150° C., in particular between 8° and 120° C., for approximately 1 to 10 hours is preferred.
After the addition reaction, the stage of removal of the rhodium or platinum catalyst used with activated carbon can be included. The amount of activated carbon used is preferably from 0.001% to 5.0% and in particular from 0.01% to 1.0% of the overall system. The discoloration of the sample can be better suppressed by fixing the amount of activated carbon in this range.
After the addition reaction, if necessary, the stage of removal of the remaining hydrosilyl groups can be included. In particular in the cases where use in applications such as cosmetic preparations is anticipated, there exists a possibility of these hydrosilyl groups becoming deactivated over time due to dehydrogenation reactions, which presents a problem from the viewpoint of safety. It is thus preferable to include a stage of maintenance of the hydrosilyl groups.
An example of stage of removal of the hydrosilyl groups is the process of hydrolysis of the unreacted hydrosilyl groups by the addition of a basic catalyst, such as an alkali metal carbonate, an alkali metal bicarbonate or an alkali metal hydroxide, and then neutralization by the addition of an amount of acid catalyst equal to the molar equivalent of the basic catalyst. Specific examples of the basic catalyst comprise strong basic catalysts, such as lithium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide and barium hydroxide; and weak basic catalysts, such as sodium carbonate, calcium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate. From the viewpoint of the promotion of the dehydrogenation reaction, the use of a strong basic catalyst is particularly preferred, sodium hydroxide being particularly preferred. Mention may be made, among acid catalysts, of hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, sulfurous acid, fuming sulfuric acid, oxalic acid, p-toluenesulfonic acid, methanesulfonic acid, trifluoroacetic acid, trifluoromethanesulfonic acid, phosphoric acid, formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, benzoic acid and citric acid. In general, instead of using the acid alone or the base alone, it is preferable to use them with water and to heat them to a temperature which is not greater than the boiling point of water.
After the addition reaction, if necessary, the stage of deodorization to reduce the odor can be included. When use in applications such as cosmetic preparations in particular is anticipated, because the product acquires an odor with time, it is preferable to include a stage of deodorization. The mechanism for the deodorization of ordinary silicones modified by polyethers can be explained as follows. When an addition reaction between a polyether etherified by allyl groups and a hydropolyorganosiloxane is carried out in the presence of a platinum catalyst, the allyl groups rearrange internally in the form of side reactions, forming a polyether etherified by propenyl groups. This propenyl-etherified polyether has no reactivity with the polyorganosiloxane hydrogen and thus remains in the system as an impurity. It is believed that when water acts on this propenyl-etherified polyether, the propenyl ether hydrolyzes, giving rise to propionaldehyde, which gives off an unpleasant odor. It is known that the above hydrolysis reaction is also promoted in the presence of an acid catalyst. Consequently, when the silicone modified by a polyether is used in a water-based cosmetic preparation, due to the oxidative deterioration of the polyether, the preparation tends to become acidic with time, promoting the hydrolysis reaction described above and bringing about the appearance of a bad odor.
Typical examples of the stage of deodorization comprise two approaches. The first is that in which, by adding an acid catalyst to the solution after the addition reaction, any propenyl ether remaining in the system is hydrolyzed and the propionaldehyde which is formed is removed by strip purification (JP No. 2137062).
Specific examples of the acid catalyst used in the first approach comprise hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, sulfurous acid, fuming sulfuric acid, oxalic acid, p-toluenesulfonic acid, methanesulfonic acid, trifluoroacetic acid, trifluoromethanesulfonic acid, phosphoric acid, formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, benzoic acid and citric acid. These acids are used in combination with water. In the case where it is necessary to remove the acid which has been used, it is preferable to use an acid having a low boiling point, such as hydrochloric acid, formic acid, acetic acid or trifluoroacetic acid. Likewise, from the viewpoint of the effectiveness of the treatment, it is preferable to use a strong acid, such as hydrochloric acid or trifluoroacetic acid.
The treatment temperature is preferably fixed at 80° C. or less in order to prevent the oxidation of the hydrophilic groups. The amount of acidic aqueous solution added is preferably fixed from 0.1% to 100%, with respect to the organosilicon resin modified by organic groups. The use of 5% to 30% is more preferred.
From the viewpoint of the productivity, the process consisting of adding an aqueous solution to the post reaction solution so as to regulate the pH at 7 or less and of carrying out a strip purification after stirring under heating is preferred. The purification of the strip can be carried out at normal temperature or under reduced pressure. The temperature conditions are preferably fixed at 120° C. or less. In order to efficiently purify the strip under these temperature conditions, it is preferable to carry out this operation under reduced pressure; when it is carried out at normal pressure, the operation is preferably carried out under a stream of inert gas, such as nitrogen or argon.
The second approach is that in which, by adding hydrogen to the solution after the addition reaction, the unsaturated double bonds are alkylated (subjected to a hydrogenation reaction) and the formation of propionaldehyde over time is controlled in a stable manner (U.S. Pat. No. 5,225,509; JP-A H07-330907).
The hydrogenation reactions comprise methods involving the use of hydrogen and methods involving the use of metal hydrides, and there also exist homogeneous reactions and heterogeneous reactions. These methods can be used alone but it is also possible to use in them combination. However, given the advantage that there is no trace of catalyst used in the product, a heterogeneous catalytic hydrogenation reaction using a solid catalyst is preferred.
The solid catalyst is, for example, nickel, palladium, platinum, rhodium, cobalt, chromium, copper, iron and others, in the uncombined form or in the compound form. In this case, it is not necessary to use a catalyst support. However, when a catalyst support is used, the support can, for example, be activated carbon, silica, silica/aluminum, aluminum or zeolite. These catalysts can be used alone but it is also possible to use them in combination. The preferred catalyst is Raney nickel, which is economically advantageous. As the Raney nickel is generally developed and used with an alkali, it is necessary to carefully measure the pH of the reaction system. Furthermore, the reaction system becomes weakly alkaline, which is particularly effective for the deodorization when the hydrolysis reaction is carried out with an acidic aqueous solution.
It is preferable to carry out the hydrogenation reaction at a pressure generally of between 1 and 100 MPa and between 5° and 200° C. The hydrogenation reaction can be carried out batchwise or continuously. When it is a noncontinuous process, the reaction time depends, for example, on the amount of catalyst and on the temperature but it is generally of between 3 and 12 hours. The hydrogen pressure can be adjusted to an appropriate fixed pressure. The final point of the hydrogenation reaction is the point at which the hydrogen pressure has ceased to change and it can thus be determined by carefully monitoring a manometer.
The amount of aldehyde included in the glycerolated silicone resin which has been purified by this acid treatment and this hydrogenation treatment can be fixed at 70 ppm or less, preferably at 20 ppm or less and more preferably at 10 ppm or less.
It is also possible to combine both types of abovementioned deodorization stages. In the approach which involves an acid treatment, the decomposition and the removal of the aldehyde compound is possible but, as there is a limit to the complete removal of the unsaturated double bonds, the formation of odorous aldehyde from that cannot be completely suppressed. In the approach which involves a hydrogenation reaction, by eliminating the unsaturated double bonds, it is possible to reduce the amount of aldehyde compound which is formed because of that. However, the aldehyde condensate which is formed with the condensation of a portion of the aldehyde remains in the system even after such a treatment has been carried out and the removal by strip purification is also difficult. Consequently, by alkylating the unsaturated double bonds which remain when the solution, following the addition reaction, is subjected to hydrogenation, and by subsequently decomposing the aldehyde condensate in the system by adding an acid catalyst, complete deodorization is possible (WO 2002/05588).
The weight-average molecular weight of the glycerolated silicone resin of mean formula (1) preferably varies from 1000 to 100 000; from the viewpoint of the performance qualities and of the ease of the operations, such as the filtration, the weight-average molecular weight preferentially varies from 3000 to 50 000. Here and subsequently, the weight-average molecular weight can be determined as the polystyrene-equivalent weight-average molecular weight in gel permeation chromatography (GPC).
The glycerolated silicone resin according to the invention is in a form at 25° C. which can be solid or liquid; from the viewpoint of the formability of the film, it is preferably solid.
In particular, the glycerolated silicone resin according to the invention of formula (1) for which the indices b and c satisfy the conditions 0<b≤30 and 0≤c≤30, the index i in the general formula (2) is a number which satisfies the condition 0<i≤3 and the index j in the general formula (3) satisfies the condition 0≤j≤10 is the form of a solid at 25° C. and preferably exhibits a weight-average molecular weight which preferably varies from 1000 to 100 000 and more preferentially from 3000 to 50 000.
The glycerolated silicone resins according to the invention have a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB), as determined by the Griffin formula, preferably of 0.1 to 15 and more preferably of 1.0 to 8.0.
According to a preferred form, the composition of the invention comprises at least one glycerolated silicone resin in the formula (1) of the (3-Glyceroxypropyl) Dimethylsiloxy Trimethylsiloxysilicate type corresponding to the following formula (21):
[(CH3)3SiO1/2]a[R(CH3)2SiO1/2]b(SiO4/2)f (21)
According to a particularly preferred form, the glycerolated silicone resin of the (3-Glyceroxypropyl) Dimethylsiloxyl Trimethylsiloxysilicate type of formula (21) is in the form of a solution in at least one volatile oil.
Preferably, the volatile oil can be chosen from the group constituted of hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils and their mixtures.
Preferably, the term “hydrocarbon oil” is understood to mean an oil containing predominantly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxyl functions.
Preferably, the term “silicone oil” denotes an oil comprising at least one Si—O group and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.
Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from branched C8-C16 alkanes. Mention may in particular be made, as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the Isopar® or Permethyl® tradenames. More preferentially, isododecane will be used.
Preferably, the volatile silicone oil can be chosen from volatile silicone oils, such as volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 2 to 8 centistokes (2·10−6 to 8·10−6 m2/s) and containing in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Mention may in particular be made, as volatile silicone oils which can be used in the invention, of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyl-trisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane; and their mixtures. More preferentially, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5) will be used.
According to a particularly preferred form, the glycerolated silicone resin of the (3-Glyceroxypropyl) Dimethylsiloxy Trimethylsiloxysilicate type of formula (21) is in the form of the solution comprising 49.5% by weight of active material in isododecane, such as the product manufactured under the tradename X-25-9138A® by SHIN ETSU with a weight-average molecular weight of 11 000.
According to preferred embodiments of the invention, the MQ silicone resin(s) and/or glycerolated silicone resin(s) is (are) preferably present in a content as active material ranging from about 0.1% to about 30% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from about 0.2% to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 15% by weight, and preferably from about 1% to about 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween such as 1% to 5%, 5% to 25%, 1% to 7.5%, 2% to 12.5%, etc.
When at least one MQ silicone resin and/or at least one glycerolated silicone resin is/are also present in compositions of the present invention, preferably the weight ratio of active material of (1) silicone acrylate copolymer to (2) total amount of silicone resin present (T-modified and/or MQ silicone resin and/or glycerolated silicone resin) is from about 10:1 to about 1:10, from about 7.5:1 to about 1:7.5, from about 5:1 to about 1:5, and from about 3:1 to about 1:3, and from about 2:1 to about 1:2 including any ratio ranges therein such as about 1:1 and/or which can be discerned by using the amounts of ingredients in the examples of this application as an endpoint of a range. Preferably, more silicone acrylate copolymer is present in the compositions of the present invention than silicone resin (T-modified/MQ/glycerolated).
According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, compositions further comprising at least one fatty substance are provided. Suitable fatty substances include oil(s) and/or wax(es). “Oil” means any non-aqueous medium which is liquid at ambient temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). A “wax” for the purposes of the present disclosure is a lipophilic fatty compound that is solid at ambient temperature (25° C.) and changes from the solid to the liquid state reversibly, having a melting temperature of more than 30° C. and, for example, more than 45° C., which can be as high as 150° C., a hardness of more than 0.5 MPa at ambient temperature, and an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. By taking the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to use wax(es) by themselves as carriers and/or it is possible to make wax(es) miscible with the oils to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture.
Suitable oils include volatile and/or non-volatile oils. Such oils can be any acceptable oil including but not limited to silicone oils and/or hydrocarbon oils.
According to certain embodiments, the compositions of the present invention preferably comprise one or more volatile silicone oils such as those discussed above. Examples of such volatile silicone oils include linear or cyclic silicone oils having a viscosity at room temperature less than or equal to 6 cSt and having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones being optionally substituted with alkyl or alkoxy groups of 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Specific oils that may be used in the invention include octamethyltetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and their mixtures. Other volatile oils which may be used include KF 96A of 6 cSt viscosity, a commercial product from Shin Etsu having a flash point of 94° C. Preferably, the volatile silicone oils have a flash point of at least 40° C.
Non-limiting examples of volatile silicone oils are listed in Table 1 below.
Further, a volatile linear silicone oil may be employed in the present invention. Suitable volatile linear silicone oils include those described in U.S. Pat. No. 6,338,839 and WO 03/042221, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference. In one embodiment the volatile linear silicone oil is decamethyltetrasiloxane. In another embodiment, the decamethyltetrasiloxane is further combined with another solvent that is more volatile than decamethyltetrasiloxane.
According to certain embodiments of the present invention, the composition of preferably comprises one or more non-silicone volatile oils and may be selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile esters and volatile ethers such as those discussed above. Examples of such volatile non-silicone oils include, but are not limited to, volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures and in particular branched C8 to C16 alkanes such as C8 to C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isohexacecane, isododecane, isodecane, and for example, the oils sold under the trade names of Isopar or Permethyl. Preferably, the volatile non-silicone oils have a flash point of at least 40° C.
Non-limiting examples of volatile non-silicone volatile oils are given in Table 2 below.
The volatility of the solvents/oils can be determined using the evaporation speed as set forth in U.S. Pat. No. 6,338,839, the contents of which are incorporated by reference herein.
According to certain embodiments of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one non-volatile oil. Examples of non-volatile oils that may be used in the present invention include, but are not limited to, polar oils such as:
Further, examples of non-volatile oils that may be used in the present invention include, but are not limited to, non-polar oils such as branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and hydrocarbon waxes including polyolefins, in particular Vaseline (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, and mixtures thereof.
Further, examples of non-volatile oils that may be used in the present invention include, but are not limited to, silicone oils such as dimethicone (polydimethylsiloxane) of various viscosities as well as phenylated silicone oils such as phenyl trimethicone and trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone.
According to preferred embodiments, if present, the at least one oil is present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount ranging from about 10 to about 80% by weight, more preferably from about 20 to about 70% by weight, and most preferably from about 25 to about 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges within these ranges, such as 30-65%, 40-60%, 30-55%, etc.
According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, the compositions of the present invention further comprise at least one wax. Suitable examples of waxes that can be used in accordance with the present disclosure include those generally used in the cosmetics field: they include those of natural origin, such as beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax, cork fibre wax or sugar cane wax, rice bran wax, rice wax, montan wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline wax, ceresin or ozokerite, and hydrogenated oils such as hydrogenated castor oil or jojoba oil; synthetic waxes such as the polyethylene waxes obtained from the polymerization or copolymerization of ethylene, and Fischer-Tropsch waxes, or else esters of fatty acids, such as octacosanyl stearate, glycerides which are solid at 30° C., for example at 45° C.
According to particularly preferred embodiments of the present invention, the compositions of the present invention further include at least one silicone wax. Examples of suitable silicone waxes include, but are not limited to, silicone waxes such as alkyl- or alkoxydimethicones having an alkyl or alkoxy chain ranging from 10 to 45 carbon atoms, poly(di)methylsiloxane esters which are solid at 30° C. and whose ester chain comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, di(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, which is sold or manufactured by Heterene under the name HEST 2T-4S; alkylated silicone acrylate copolymer waxes comprising at least 40 mole % of siloxy units having the formula (R2R′SiO1/2)×(R″SiO1/2)y, where x and y have a value of 0.05 to 0.95, R is an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group, or an amino group, R is a monovalent hydrocarbon having 9-40 carbon atoms, R″ is a monovalent hydrocarbon group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group such as those disclosed in U.S. Patent Application No.: 2007/0149703, the entire contents of which is hereby incorporated by reference, with a particular example being C30-C45 alkyldimethylsilyl polypropylsilsesquioxane; and mixtures thereof.
According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention contain less than 1% wax.
According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention contain less than 0.5% wax.
According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention contain no wax.
If present, the wax or waxes may be present in an amount ranging from 1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for example from 2 to 20%, and for example from 3 to 10%, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, compositions of the present invention may optionally further comprise at least one coloring agent. According to this embodiment, the coloring agent(s) is/are preferably chosen from pigments, dyes, nacreous pigments, pearling agents, and mixtures thereof.
Representative liposoluble dyes which may be used according to the present invention include Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, ß-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, annatto, and quinoline yellow. The liposoluble dyes, when present, generally have a concentration ranging up to 40% by weight of the total weight of the composition, such as from 0.0001% to 30%, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
The nacreous pigments which may be used according to the present invention may be chosen from colored nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment chosen from those mentioned above, and nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. The nacreous pigments, if present, be present in the composition in a concentration ranging up to 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition, such as from 0.0001% to 40%, preferably from 0.001% to 30%, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
The pigments, which may be used according to the present invention, may be chosen from white, colored, inorganic, organic, polymeric, and nonpolymeric pigments. Representative examples of mineral pigments include titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, iron oxides, chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, and ferric blue. Representative examples of organic pigments include carbon black, pigments of D & C type, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, and aluminum.
If present, the coloring agents may be present in the composition in a concentration ranging up to 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition, such as from 0.0001% to 40%, and further such as from 0.001% to 30%, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
The compositions of the present invention may also optionally contain water. When the compositions of the present invention contain water, they are preferably in the form of an emulsion. Preferably, when the compositions of the present invention contain water, they are in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (0/W) or a water-in-oil emulsion (W/O). Preferably, when in the form of an emulsion, the oil phase contains predominantly silicone oils (Si/W or W/Si emulsion) or hydrocarbon oils. When present, water is preferably present in an amount of from about 10% to about 80% by weight, preferably from about 20% to about 70% by weight, preferably from about 35% to about 65% by weight, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, all weights being based on the total weight of the composition.
According to preferred embodiments, however, compositions of the present invention are devoid of water, substantially free of water, or free of water as defined herein. Preferably, the compositions of the present invention are anhydrous.
The composition of the invention can also comprise any additive usually used in the field under consideration. For example, additional film formers other than the at least one silicone acrylate and the at least one T-modified or glycerolated silicone resin, dispersants such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid), antioxidants, essential oils, sunscreens, preserving agents, fragrances, fillers, neutralizing agents, cosmetic and dermatological active agents such as, for example, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids, surfactants, silicone elastomers, thickening agents, gelling agents, particles, pasty compounds, viscosity increasing agents can be added. A non-exhaustive listing of such ingredients can be found in U.S. Patent Application Publication No.: 2004/0170586, the entire contents of which is hereby incorporated by reference. Further examples of suitable additional components can be found in the other references which have been incorporated by reference in this application. Still further examples of such additional ingredients may be found in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (9th ed. 2002).
A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional additives and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
These substances may be selected variously by the person skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition which has the desired properties, for example, consistency or texture.
These additives may be present in the composition in a proportion from 0% to 99% (such as from 0.01% to 90%) relative to the total weight of the composition and further such as from 0.1% to 50% (if present), including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
Needless to say, the composition of the invention should be cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, i.e., it should contain a non-toxic physiologically acceptable medium and should be able to be applied to the keratinous materials of human beings such as, for example, lips, skin or eyelashes.
In particular, suitable gelling agents for the oil phase include, but are not limited to, lipophilic or hydrophilic clays.
The term “hydrophilic clay” means a clay that is capable of swelling in water; this clay swells in water and forms after hydration a colloidal dispersion. These clays are products that are already well known per se, which are described, for example, in the book “Mineralogie des argiles”, S. Caillere, S. Henin, M. Rautureau, 2nd edition 1982, Masson, the teaching of which is included herein by way of reference. Clays are silicates containing a cation that may be chosen from calcium, magnesium, aluminium, sodium, potassium and lithium cations, and mixtures thereof. Examples of such products that may be mentioned include clays of the smectite family such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites and saponites, and also of the family of vermiculites, stevensite and chlorites. These clays may be of natural or synthetic origin.
Hydrophilic clays that may be mentioned include synthetic hectorites (also known as laponites), for instance the products sold by the company Laporte under the names Laponite XLG, Laponite RD and Laponite RDS (these products are sodium magnesium silicates and in particular sodium lithium magnesium silicates); bentonites, for instance the product sold under the name Bentone HC by the company Rheox; magnesium aluminium silicates, especially hydrated, for instance the products sold by the Vanderbilt Company under the names Veegum Ultra, Veegum HS and Veegum DGT, or calcium silicates, and especially the product in synthetic form sold by the company under the name Micro-cel C.
The term “lipophilic clay” means a clay that is capable of swelling in a lipophilic medium; this clay swells in the medium and thus forms a colloidal dispersion. Examples of lipophilic clays that may be mentioned include modified clays such as modified magnesium silicate (Bentone Gel VS38 from Rheox), and hectorites modified with a C10 to C22 fatty-acid ammonium chloride, for instance hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride (CTFA name: disteardimonium hectorite) sold under the name Bentone 38 CE by the company Rheox or Bentone 38VO by the company Elementis.
In particular, among the gelling agents that may be used, mention may be made of silica particles. Preferably, the silica particles are fumed silica particles.
Suitable silicas include, but are not limited to, hydrophobic silicas, such as pyrogenic silica optionally with hydrophobic surface treatment whose particle size is less than 1 micron, preferably less than 500 nm, preferably less than 100 nm, preferably from 5 nm to 30 nm, including all ranges and subranges therebetween. It is in fact possible to modify the surface of silica chemically, by a chemical reaction producing a decrease in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. The silanol groups can notably be replaced with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups can be:
Preferably, the gelling agent, if present, is present in the composition of the present invention in amounts of active material generally ranging from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.25% to about 5%, and more preferably from about 0.5% to about 3.5%, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges in between.
According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, methods of treating, caring for and/or making up a keratinous material by applying compositions of the present invention to the keratinous material in an amount sufficient to treat, care for and/or make up the keratinous material are provided. Preferably, “making up” the keratinous material includes applying at least one coloring agent to the keratinous material in an amount sufficient to provide color to the keratinous material.
According to yet other preferred embodiments, methods of enhancing the appearance of a keratinous material by applying compositions of the present invention to the keratinous material in an amount sufficient to enhance the appearance of the keratinous material are provided.
In accordance with the preceding preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention are applied topically to the desired area of the keratinous material in an amount sufficient to treat, care for and/or make up the keratinous material, to cover or hide defects associated with keratinous material, or to enhance the appearance of keratinous material. The compositions may be applied to the desired area as needed, preferably once daily, and then preferably allowed to dry before subjecting to contact such as with clothing or other objects. Preferably, the composition is allowed to dry for about 4 minutes or less, more preferably for about 2 minutes or less.
Unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients, reaction conditions, and so forth used in the specification and claims are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term “about.” Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical parameters set forth in the following specification and attached claims are approximations that may vary depending upon the desired properties sought to be obtained by the present invention.
Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters setting forth the broad scope of the invention are approximations, the numerical values set forth in the specific examples are reported as precisely as possible. Any numerical value, however, inherently contain certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective measurements. The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without limiting the scope as a result. The percentages are given on a weight basis.
The following compositions can be prepared:
A 1 mL drawdown of samples (below) was performed on abrasion paper, and the drawdowns were allowed to sit at ambient temperature for 24 hours to dry and form a film. Two droplets of liquid (olive oil, artificial saliva or acetic acid) were placed on the film of each sample tested, making sure not to overlap the droplets. The droplets were allowed to sit for the indicated times below and then were wiped with a cotton round 15 times. This procedure was repeated twice to produce an average score.
The above procedure was repeated for each Sample A-H for each liquid (olive oil, artificial saliva, acetic acid).
Finally, to a film on which no liquid has been applied, run a piece of ASTM tape on the film, with slight finger pressure and removed at a 180 degree angle.
Grading: Numerical rating on a scale of 1-3 was assigned where 1=least transfer/best film property and 3=most transfer/worst film property. An average score of two readings was obtained and presented in the table below.
Each Sample 1-5 (below) was drawn down on 3×1 window on a 4×2 section of nitrile glove with a ½″ border on all sides created using tape, and each sample was allowed to dry overnight and the tape was removed. Then, each sample was stretch 10 times a total of 6 inches to determine the impact on flexibility, using the following grading scale:
Three types of compositions were prepared having high (15-20%), medium (8-19.9%) or low (1-7.9%) active film former (silicone acrylate copolymer and/or silicone resin(s)(T-modified, MQ, and/or glycerolated) as follows:
These compositions Samples 1-5 were tested for extended wear and flexibility according to the procedures in Example 2, where the droplets were allowed to sit for 10 minutes. The results of this testing are set forth below:
Associations of high silicone acrylate copolymer and T-modified silicone resin with lower amounts of glycerolated silicone resin offered the best combined flexibility (lower stretch numbers) and long wear properties (lower wear assay numbers, indicating preferred compositions which are high in silicone acrylate copolymer and T-modified silicone resin content with low amounts of MQ and/or glycerolated silicone resin content.
The base composition of Sample 5 was used to prepare compositions containing differing ratios of silicone acrylate copolymer and various silicone resins. The total final solid content of silicone acrylate copolymer and silicone resins was 20% in each composition. The compositions thus prepared can be summarized:
The actual formulations were as follows:
These compositions were tested for extended wear and flexibility according to the procedures in Example 2, where the droplets were allowed to sit for 30 or 60 minutes (as indicated). The results of this testing are set forth below:
Sample A had good flexibility as indicated by a 0 in the stretch test, however, its long wear properties (e.g., olive oil test) were impacted.
Samples B, C, and D, each containing a single silicone resin, had poor flexibility.
Sample E had good flexibility as indicated by a 1 in the stretch test, however, its long wear properties (e.g., olive oil test) were slightly impacted.
Samples H and I possessed inferior flexibility.
Samples F and J without MQ silicone resin showed both excellent long wear and flexibility properties.
Samples G and K with MQ silicone resin showed both excellent long wear and flexibility properties, with Sample K having better long wear properties (e.g., olive oil test).
