The present invention relates generally to loop pile fabrics having an upstanding pile surface and more particularly to loop pile fabrics having a first group of pile-forming loops of a first height and at least a second group of pile-forming loops of a second shorter height. A method of forming the fabric is also provided.
Loop pile fabrics are generally known. Such fabrics may be formed by techniques such as knitting a pile yarn in combination with a ground yarn using techniques such as POL knitting, Tricot knitting and Raschel knitting and the like as will be well known to those of skill in the art. Such fabrics may also be formed by other techniques such as tufting and stitch bonding as will also be well known to those of skill in the art. The result of all such processes is the formation of a fabric having a base with an arrangement of upstanding outwardly projecting loops.
If desired, a degree of variability may be introduced across the fabric by the introduction of defined patterns of loops projecting outwardly from the surface. However, such patterns which are introduced as the result of adjustment of machine settings provide a substantially regular pattern of loops and voids across the surface of the fabric. These regular patterns may be discernible upon visual inspection of the fabric thus failing to provide the appearance of random occurrence. In addition, little if any benefit is provided from the portions of pile-forming yarn located within the voids since such yarns are embedded within the ground and thus may not substantially aid in providing a textured feel to the fabric.
In the past, loop pile fabrics have been formed from fully drawn multi-filament yarns wherein the yarns are drawn and heatset under tension so as to extend and orient the individual filaments. In such a process each of filaments in the yarn is subjected to a substantially uniform heating and extension treatment such that the yarn will thereafter act in a uniform manner upon post fabric formation treatments such as heat setting, dyeing and the like. That is, since the yarn has been uniformly treated it does not exhibit variable response characteristics when subjected to heating or other treatment conditions.
It is also known to form cut pile fabrics from yarns which are subjected to a substantially uniform heat treatment during drawing but which are not fully drawn. Such a process is illustrated and described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,983,470 to Goineau the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. The resultant fabric has a generally striated appearance upon dyeing.
According to one aspect, the present invention provides advantages and alternatives over the known art by providing a loop pile fabric formed from a pile yarn wherein the pile yarn has variable shrink characteristics at different zones along its length such that when the pile-forming yarn is introduced into a loop pile fabric and is thereafter subjected to heated finishing treatments, discrete portions of the yarn shrink towards the base of the fabric. The shrinking of zones along the pile-forming yarn towards the fabric base yields substantially random arrangements of unshrunken high pile loops in combination with shrunken lower pile loop zones of self textured crimped filaments with reduced crystalline orientation in the same yarn. The resultant fabric has an irregular pebble appearance.
The present invention will now be described by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying drawings which constitute a portion of the specification herein and wherein:
While the present invention has been generally described above and will hereinafter be described in greater detail in relation to certain illustrated and potentially preferred embodiments, procedures and practices it is to be understood that in no event is the invention to be limited to such illustrated and described embodiments, procedures and practices. Rather, it is intended that the invention shall extend to all embodiments, practices and procedures as may be embodied within the broad principles of the invention.
Reference will now be made to the various figures wherein, to the extent possible, like elements are designated by like reference numerals throughout the various views. In
Referring to
As shown, the drawing apparatus 132 has a first draw zone 136 located between tensioning rolls 138, 140 and a second draw zone 142 located between tensioning rolls 140 and 146. A contact heating plate 150 as will be well known to those of skill in the art engages the yarns 122 within the second draw zone 142. According to the potentially preferred practice, the partially oriented yarns 122 are passed through the first draw zone 136 with substantially no heating or drawing treatment. Thus, the yarns 122 are substantially unaltered upon entering the second draw zone 142. At the second draw zone the yarns 122 preferably undergo a relatively slight drawing elongation while simultaneously being subjected to a relatively low temperature heating procedure from the contact heater 150. Since the resultant yarn 122′ is not drawn to a condition of full orientation it is referred to as “underdrawn” yarn.
According to the potentially preferred practice the yarn is conveyed across the contact heater 150 at a high rate of speed such that the yarn does not reach a state of temperature equilibrium within the cross-section of the yarn at all segments. By way of example only, and not limitation, for a 115 denier polyester yarn it has been found that subjecting such yarn to a draw ratio of about 1.15 (i.e. 15% elongation) with a contact heater temperature of about 170 C to about 200 C with a take up speed of about 500-600 yards per minute provides the desired non-uniform cross-sectional heat treatment at some segments of the yarn while yielding a uniform cross-sectional heat treatment at other segments. Of course, the level of drawing, temperature and speed may be adjusted for different yarns.
The resultant yarn 122′ may then be formed into a fabric and heat treated to provide desired surface characteristics in the manner as will be described further hereinafter. Of course, it is also contemplated that the yarn 122′ may be subjected to heat treatment prior to introduction into a fabric if desired. In either case, discrete segments of the yarn 122′ undergo shrinkage and self-texturing while other segments along the same yarn experience little if any change.
The mechanism believed to be responsible for the non-uniform character of the yarns is believed to relate to the nature of the partially oriented yarn 122 being processed as well as the process conditions. Referring to
In
It is surmised that due to the lack of flattening and the high rate of travel across the heater, heat treatment is not uniform within the interlace nodes and adjacent portions. Thus, the filaments at those areas retain a relatively high level of shrinkage potential since a steady state temperature is not reached. The retention of such shrinkage potential leaves such zones susceptible to subsequent enhanced heat shrinkage relative to the remaining portions of the yarn (which have been subjected to uniform temperature treatment) upon subsequent heat application.
Variable Shrinkage and Bulking Evaluation:
The enhanced retained shrinkage potential of the yarn at the interlace nodes relative to the intermediate loose zones following the treatment process as outlined above has been confirmed by cutting out segments of an exemplary 260 denier polyester yarn treated according to the procedure outlined above and thereafter subjecting those cut out segments to a uniform heat treatment and then measuring the level of shrinkage caused by the heat treatment. In particular, a first group of two yarn segments was cut out from sections between interlace nodes such that each of the two cut out yarn segments in this first group was substantially devoid of any interlace node. A second group of three yarn segments was cut out from the yarn such that each of the three cut out yarn segments in this second group was formed substantially of a single interlace node. Both the first group and the second group of yarn segments were then subjected to a high temperature superheated steam treatment to observe shrinkage. The results are set forth in Table I below showing that the second group of yarn segments formed from the interlace nodes exhibited substantially increased shrinkage on a percentage basis relative to the yarn segments in the first group devoid of interlace nodes.
In addition to shrinkage, it was also observed that the yarn segments formed from the interlace nodes underwent an enhanced degree of bulking and self texturing resulting in substantial filament thickening.
Crystalline Orientation:
It has also been found that after heat treatment (such as occurs in fabric finishing) segments of the same yarn treated according to the procedures as previously described are characterized by substantially different levels of orientation as measured by wide angle x-ray diffraction. In order to characterize the molecular structure of the two different types of domains in a finished construction, a polyester yarn treated according to the process as illustrated and described in relation to
To understand the orientation differences in the zones of the sock individual courses of each type of region were removed from the construction for x-ray measurement. Courses were ‘double-folded’ to form a 4-ply yarn so as to increase the scattering signal rate and reduce the necessary exposure time. Samples were mounted onto standard x-ray sample mounts.
Wide-angle diffraction patterns were generated via exposure to x-rays generated with a rotating copper anode source having a primary wavelength of 1.5418 Å. Patterns were recorded using a general area detector system offset to an angle of 2θ=16.5° and set 15 cm from the sample position. Samples were oriented in the beam such that the fiber axis was vertical. Exposures of 15 minutes were used to generate patterns, and a background pattern acquired over an empty position on the sample holder was subtracted from the resulting data.
The diffraction pattern for the high-shrink yarn sample is shown in
It is known that the difference in the angular distribution of crystallites between the two samples can be quantified in terms of the Herman orientation function:
where a is the relative angle of the PET chain axis. As will be appreciated, the Herman orientation function is a measure of the orientation of PET chains within fiber crystallites with respect to the fiber axis direction. It assumes values ranging from +1 (perfectly oriented parallel to the axis) to 0 (perfectly random) to −½ (perfectly oriented perpendicularly). For cylindrically symmetric (on average) fibers, the distributional average of the square cosine term is given by:
Where IP(χ) is the angular distribution of a directional vector P (in this case, the PET chain direction) as measured with respect to a reference direction, in this case the fiber axis.
In PET there does not exist a crystalline reflection in the direction of the PET chains. Thus, to determine the Herman orientation function for PET chains a well recognized geometric relationship is utilized to develop the square cosine term.
<cos2 σ>=1−0.8786<cos2 χ(010)>−0.7733<cos2 χ(110)>−0.3481<cos2 χ(100)>,
where σ is the relative angle of the PET chain axis, and χ(hk0) are the relatives angles of the (hk0) crystalline reflections. This relationship was described by Z. Wilchinsky in Journal of Applied Physics 30, 792 (1959) the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.
The <cos2 χ(hk0)> terms can be numerically computed by extracting the I(hk0)(χ) distributions from the measured diffraction patterns. Angular distributions were computed by integrating the pattern signals over a 0.7° range of 2θ values centered on the following positions: 17.65° for the (010) reflection, 22.75° for the (110) reflection, and 25.35° for the (100) reflection. Distributions of x-ray peaks for the high shrink and low shrink yarn segments (used for purposes of integration) are shown in
Results from the numerical determination of the Herman orientation function (ƒc) are shown in Table II below. As shown, the low-shrink yarn sample possesses a measurably higher level of orientation.
In order to confirm the legitimacy of the crystalline orientation evaluations on the treated yarn of the present invention, a control analysis was conducted on a standard fully drawn 265 denier 36 filament partially oriented PET yarn that had been cold drawn with a 2.1 draw ratio and heat set at 220 C. Three samples were taken from segments 6 to 12 inches apart along the length of the yarn and x-ray patterns were generated using 45 minute exposures. An air scattering frame was also acquired and subtracted from the data before analysis. The same calculations were performed as described above. The Herman orientation function calculated based on the measurements of these samples ranged from 0.819 to 0.853 which is a difference of 0.034. This is less than half the difference of 0.074 measured for the high shrink and low shrink portions of the yarn. Thus, there exists a much greater variation in crystalline orientation between portions of the yarns of the present invention following heat treatment than in standard yarns.
Based on the evaluations carried out it may be seen that the interlaced nodes along the yarn give rise to the high shrink portions of the yarn. Moreover, upon application of heat treatment these high shrink portions shrink to a greater degree and have a lower level of crystalline orientation (as measured by the Herman Orientation Function) than the low shrink portions. Moreover, the degree of variation between high shrink and low shrink zones along the length of the yarns of the present invention is substantially greater than variations in standard yarns.
Fabric Formation:
As will be appreciated through reference to
A resultant fabric structure following heat treatment and dyeing is illustrated in
As in the individual yarn samples evaluated, due to the shrinkage of the filaments 126 at different yarn segments in the fabric, the filaments within the low profile loop segments 160 of the pile portion 116 are characterized by a substantially greater diameter than the filaments in the high profile loops 163. By way of example only, for purposes of comparison photomicrographs are provided of the filament cross sections in the high profile loops 163 (
By way of example only, within a yarn 122′ according to the present invention it is contemplated that the number of interlace nodes will preferably be in the range of about 10 to 40 nodes per meter with each node taking up about 0.6 to about 1.3 cm. Thus, it is contemplated that zones of high retained shrinkage potential will preferably make up about 6% to about 52% percent of the total length of the yarn and will more preferably make up about 25% of the total length of the yarn.
As previously indicated, a substantial benefit of the present invention is that the low profile loop segments 160 of heat shrunk yarn are present across the surface of the fabric in a substantially random arrangement. This imparts a substantially natural random look which may be desirable in many instances. Moreover, since the low profile zones undergo heat shrinkage as a result of activating intrinsic heat shrink potential, such shrinkage occurs without embrittlement and results in a self crimping of the yarns in the low profile zones which emulates texturing thereby enhancing a soft feel and avoiding filament breakage leading to undesirable shredding. In this regard it is to be understood that the terms “self textured” or “self crimping” refers to the characteristic that the filaments have a crimped construction after shinkage without the application of external crimping or texturizing procedures. As previously indicated, after self-texturing takes place, the high shrink portions of the yarn have a lower level of crystalline orientation than the low shink portions. In this regard it is contemplated that the level of crystalline orientation of the low shrink portions of the yarn as measured by the Herman Orientation Function will on average be at least 5% greater (and more preferably at least 10% greater) than the level of crystalline orientation of the high shrink portions.
The invention may be further understood through reference to the following non-limiting example.
A 115 denier 36 filament semi-dull round partially oriented polyester yarn was subjected to a 1.143 draw across a contact Dowtherm heater plate operated at a temperature of 170 C. The heater contact length was 17 inches and the yarn was taken up off of the heater at a rate of 600 yards per minute. The yarns were spaced at a density of approximately 17.4 yarns per inch across the heater. The warper tension was set at 26 to 30 grams. Overall draw ratio was 1.165. Measurements of the post drawn yarn indicated a linear density of 103.6 denier, a boiling water shrinkage of 11.16%, an elongation of 87.46% and a breaking strength of 267 grams. The drawn yarn was knitted into the face of a 2 bar 56 gauge POL knit fabric with the ground being formed of a single ply 150 denier 36 filament semi-dull round false twist textured polyester. The bar 1 (face yarn) runner length was 136 inches. The bar 2 (ground yarn) runner length was 55 inches. The knitting machine was fully threaded. The resultant fabric had 66 coarses per inch with a pile height of 0.065 inches and a width of 57.25 inches. Samples of the resultant greige fabric were thereafter subjected to heat setting at 330° F. and at 410° F. No difference in the finished fabrics was observed. The fabric heat treated at 330° F. was thereafter subjected to hot air jet application at 625° F. The fabrics were jet dyed at 266° F., held for 30 minutes with a 20 F per minute temperature ramp up. The fabrics were wet pad tenter dried at a temperature of 250° F. passing through the tenter at 25 yards per minute. The exit width after drying was 56 inches. The resultant fabric had random high loops with relatively greater oriented crystalline regions than the low loops which were characterized by very low order orientation of the crystals as measured by wide angle X-ray scattering.
This application is a continuation-in-part of prior copending U.S. application Ser. No. 10/613,240, filed Jul. 3, 2003 entitled Pile Fabric and Heat Modified Fiber and Related Manufacturing Process and a continuation-in-part of prior copending U.S. application Ser. No. 10/613,241 filed Jul. 3, 2003 entitled Method of Making Pile Fabric the contents of all of which are incorporated by reference herein in their entirety.
Number | Date | Country | |
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Parent | 10613240 | Jul 2003 | US |
Child | 10835772 | Apr 2004 | US |
Parent | 10613241 | Jul 2003 | US |
Child | 10835772 | Apr 2004 | US |