Patent Application
20070065393
The invention relates in a preferred embodiment to an aqueous composition comprising PEG-7 caprylic/capric glycerides, and the use of the composition for, e.g, removing make-up from the skin and/or eyes. The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the invention surfactant for removing make-up from the eyes and/or skin.
Additional advantages and other features of the present invention will be set forth in part in the description that follows and in part will become apparent to those having ordinary skill in the art upon examination of the following or may be learned from the practice of the present invention. The advantages of the present invention may be realized and obtained as particularly pointed out in the appended claims. As will be realized, the present invention is capable of other and different embodiments, and its several details are capable of modifications in various obvious respects, all without departing from the present invention. The description is to be regarded as illustrative in nature, and not as restrictive.
A person using mascaras, foundations or lipsticks, in particular long-lasting and waterproof products, is on the lookout for products which make possible satisfactory removal of make-up with optimum comfort on use, that is to say having both good cosmetic qualities and good tolerance. She is thus looking for a make-up-removing product which is satisfactorily effective in removing make-up while -being gentle, pleasant to use and well tolerated, that is to say not causing irritation.
The products currently provided often comprise a large amount of oil, the presence of oil making it possible to obtain good make-up-removing effectiveness. However, these products have the disadvantage of leaving an unpleasant and unsightly greasy film on the skin. Furthermore, there exist aqueous make-up-removing compositions which comprise surfactants and which are devoid of oil but the effectiveness of which with regard to long-lasting make-up is limited and often inadequate.
The need thus remains to have available an aqueous make-up-removing composition which has an improved make-up-removing power while being very comfortable for the skin and eyes and while thus having good tolerance and in particular good tolerance by the eyes, the region of the eyes being particularly sensitive.
The inventor has now discovered, surprisingly, that a derivative (product) of polyethylene glycol and a mixture of glycerides (mono-, di- and triglycerides) of caprylic acid and of capric acid comprising 7 ethylene oxide groups (CTFA name: PEG-7 caprylic/capric glycerides) in a limited amount makes it possible to solve the above-noted problem and to obtain aqueous compositions devoid of oils which have a very good make-up removing effectiveness, in particular with regard to long-lasting foundations, in comparison with surfactants currently used in make-up removal.
In a preferred embodiment the present invention relates to an aqueous composition, preferably a make-up-removing cosmetic composition, comprising a derivative (product)of polyethylene glycol and a mixture of glycerides of caprylic acid and of capric acid comprising 7 ethylene oxide groups in an amount of less than or equal to 10 by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
This composition is devoid of oil. Indeed, the term “aqueous composition” is understood here to mean a composition devoid of oil. The aqueous composition of the invention generally comprises at least 55% by weight of water, preferably at least 65% by weight of water and even better still at least 75% by weight of water, with respect to the total weight of the composition. The amount of water can range in particular from 55 to 99% by weight, preferably from 65 to 98% by weight and better still from 75 to 98% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition. The composition obtained is generally clear, that is to say transparent to translucent. Its transparency can be measured, for example, by a coefficient of transmission at 600 nm ranging from 10 to 90% or else by a turbidity ranging from 60 to 600 NTU and preferably from 70 to 300 NTU, which turbidity is measured with an Hach model 2100 P portable turbidimeter.
The composition obtained can constitute in particular a make-up-removing water of lotion type or a gel. The word “lotion” means that the composition is liquid and has a viscosity of less than 0.1 Pa·s (100 centi-poises), preferably less than 0.06 Pa·s (60 centi-poises), this viscosity being measured at 25° C. with a Rheomat RM 180 device from Rheometric Scientific, this device being equipped with a different spindle depending on the viscosities, for example with a spindle 1 or 2 for viscosity ranges of less than 7 poises, with a spindle 3 for viscosity ranges from 2 to 40 poises and with a spindle 4 for viscosity ranges from 20 poises to 100 poises.
A gel can have a viscosity ranging up to 5 Pa·s. The viscosity of the gels according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.1 to 200 poises (0.01 to 20 Pa·s) and better still from 5 to 150 poises (0.5 to 15 Pa·s), measured at 25° C. using the Rheomat RM 180.
The composition according to the invention is preferably intended and adapted for topical application and thus preferably comprises a physiologically acceptable medium. The term “physiologically acceptable medium” is understood to mean a medium compatible with the skin, mucous membranes (including the inside of the eyelids, the lips), nails, region of the eyes and/or keratinous fibres (hair and eyelashes).
Unexpectedly, the derivative (product) of polyethylene glycol and the mixture of glycerides of caprylic acid and of capric acid comprising 7 ethylene oxide groups, even when present in an amount of less than or equal to 10% and even, preferably, in an amount of less than 5% of the total weight of the composition, makes possible good removal of make-up from keratinous substances and in particular from the skin or from the region of the eyes (eyelashes, eyelids). It makes possible, for example, good removal of the mascara which is found on the eyelashes, good removal of the eyeliner which is found on the eyelids and good removal of the foundation which is found on the skin.
Consequently, a further subject-matter of the invention is the cosmetic use of a derivative (product) of polyethylene glycol and a mixture of glycerides of caprylic acid and of capric acid comprising 7 ethylene oxide groups in an amount of less than or equal to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, for removing make-up from the skin and from the region of the eyes.
Mention may in particular be made, as derivative (product) of polyethylene glycol and a mixture of glycerides of caprylic acid and of capric acid comprising 7 ethylene oxide groups or PEG-7 caprylic/capric glycerides, of the product sold under the name Cetiol HE 810 by Cognis.
The amount of PEG-7 caprylic/capric glycerides is not limited and can range, for example, from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
In addition, the aqueous composition of the invention can comprise one or more surfactants other than PEG-7 caprylic/capric glycerides. The total amount of surfactants (PEG-7 caprylic/capric glycerides+other surfactants) preferably ranges from 0.01 to 12% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably still from 2 to 10% by weight and better still from 3 to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
Use may be made, as other surfactant, of any surfactant commonly used in make-up-removing compositions. The surfactant can be chosen from nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants and their mixtures.
Mention may be made, as additional surfactants which can be used in the composition according to the invention, of:
(1) among nonionic surfactants:
(2) among anionic surfactants:
(3) among amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, alkyl amphoacetates, such as the N-disodium N-cocoyl-N-carboxymethoxyethyl-N-(carboxymethyl)ethylenediamine (CTFA name: disodium cocoamphodiacetate) sold in saline aqueous solution under the name Miranol C2M Conc. NP by Rhodia Chimie; N-sodium N-cocoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N-(carboxymethyl)ethylenediamine (CTFA name: sodium cocoamphoacetate); cocamides, such as the mixture of coconut acid ethanolamides (CTFA name: cocamide DEA).
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the additional surfactant or surfactants are chosen from nonionic surfactants, in particular from oxyethylene/oxypropylene block polymers, polyoxy-ethylenated sorbitan esters, derivative (product)s of polyethylene glycol and of a mixture of glycerides of caprylic acid and of capric acid having 6 or 8 ethylene oxide groups, and their mixtures.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises, as other surfactant, at least one derivative (product) of polyethylene glycol and of a mixture of glycerides of caprylic acid and of capric acid having 6 ethylene oxide groups. This combination makes it possible to obtain very good make-up-removing results with very good tolerance and good comfort on use.
In the composition of the invention, the water used can be pure demineralized water but also mineral water and/or thermal water and/or sea water, that is to say that the water of the composition can be partially or completely composed of a water chosen from mineral waters, thermal waters, sea waters and their mixtures. In general, a mineral water is suitable for consumption, which is not always the case with a thermal water. Each of these waters comprises, inter alia, trace elements and/or dissolved minerals. These waters are known to be employed for specific treatment purposes depending on the specific minerals and trace elements which they comprise, such as the moisturizing and the desensitizing of the skin or the treatment of certain dermatoses. The terms “mineral waters” or “thermal waters” will denote not only natural mineral or thermal waters but also natural mineral or thermal waters enriched in additional mineral constituents and/or in additional trace elements, and also aqueous mineral solutions and/or aqueous solutions comprising trace elements prepared from purified water (demineralized or distilled).
A natural thermal or mineral water used according to the invention can, for example, be chosen from water from Vittel, water from the Vichy basin, water from Uriage, water from La Roche Posay, water from La Bourboule, water from Enghien-les-Bains, water from Saint Gervais-les-Bains, water from Neris-les-Bains, water from Allevard-les-Bains, water from Digne, water from Maizieres, water from Neyrac-les-Bains, water from Lons-le-Saunier, water from Eaux Bonnes, water from Rochefort, water from Saint Christau, water from Les Fumades, water from Tercis-les-Bains or water from Avene.
Use may also be made of sea waters, such as Dead Sea water or sea bottom water.
The composition according to the invention can optionally comprise a monohydric C1-C3 alcohol, in particular ethanol. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, if the composition comprises such an alcohol, the amount of alcohol is less than 5% and preferably less than 3% when a make-up remover for the eyes is involved.
The composition of the invention can comprise one or more polyols and in particular glycols. Mention may in particular be made, among the polyols which can be used in the composition according to the invention, of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, such as PEG-8, dipropylene glycol and their mixtures. The amount of polyol(s) in the composition of the invention is preferably such that it does not confer a tacky nature on the final composition. This amount generally ranges from 0.05 to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight and better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
The cosmetic compositions of the invention can additionally comprise adjuvants which are standard in the cosmetics field, such as antioxidants, fragrances, peptizing agents of fragance, screening agents, colouring materials or hydrophilic or lipophilic active principles. The nature of the adjuvants and their amounts have to be such that they do not modify the properties of the composition according to the invention. The amounts of these adjuvants are those conventionally used in the cosmetics field, for example from 0.001 to 10% of the total weight of the composition.
Mention may be made, as active principles which can be used in the composition of the invention, for example, of soothing agents, such as allantoin and bisabolol; floral waters, such as lime water or cornflower water; glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts, antibacterials, such as octopirox, triclosan and triclocarban; essential oils; vitamins, such as, for example, retinol (vitamin A), ascorbic acid (vitamin C), tocopherol (vitamin E), niacinamide (vitamin PP or B3), panthenol (vitamin B5) and their derivative (product)s, such as, for example, the esters of these vitamins (palmitate, acetate, propionate), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, glycosylated vitamin C or glucopyranosylascorbic acid (ascorbyl glucoside); coenzymes, such as coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone and coenzyme R or biotin; protein hydrolysates; plant extracts and in particular plankton extracts; and their mixtures.
The composition of the invention can also comprise hydrophilic gelling agents, such as, for example, modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products sold under the names Carbopol (INCI name: carbomer) and Pemulen (INCI name: acrylates/ClO-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) by Noveon; polyacrylamides; optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, such as the poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) sold by Hoechst under the name “Hostacerin AMPS” (INCI name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltaurate); polysaccharides, such as xanthan gum, guar gum, alginates, modified or unmodified celluloses, fucose derivative (product)s, such as those sold under the names Fucogel 1000 and Fucogel 1000 PP by Solabia. The amount of these polymers can range, for example, from 0.05 to 3% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
The compositions of the invention are particularly suitable for removing make-up from the skin and/or the region of the eyes.
Consequently, a further subject-matter of the invention is the cosmetic use of the composition as defined above for removing make-up from the skin and/or the region of the eyes.
The following examples are given by way of illustration of the invention and do not have a limiting nature. All the amounts are given as percentage by weight of starting material, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
according to the invention: Make-up-removing water
Procedure:
the PEG-7 caprylic/capric glycerides and the water are mixed at ambient temperature.
A clear make-up-removing water is obtained which makes possible very good removal of make-up from the skin, in particular from the skin of the face, and the eyes.
according to the invention: Make-up-removing water
Procedure:
the PEG-7 caprylic/capric glycerides, the PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides and the water are mixed at ambient temperature.
A clear make-up-removing water is obtained which makes possible very good removal of make-up from the skin, in particular from the skin of the face, and the eyes.
according to the invention: Make-up-removing water
Procedure:
the surfactants (polysorbate 80, PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides, poloxamer 184, poloxamer 124 and PEG-7 caprylic/capric glycerides) are mixed, then the fragrance is added to this mixture and the entire combination is mixed with the water comprising the preservatives.
A clear make-up-removing water is obtained which makes possible very good removal of make-up from the skin, in particular from the skin of the face, and the eyes.
these comparative examples correspond to Example 1 in which the PEG-7 caprylic/capric glycerides has been replaced by an equivalent amount of another surfactant.
The comparative test focusing on the make-up-removing power of Example 1 of the invention and of the comparative examples was carried out according to the protocol described below.
1. Materials/Equipment
2. Protocol
3. Calculation of the percentage of removal of make-up
The mean percentage of removal of make-up corresponds to the mean of the 4 values of (ΔE/ΔEmax)*100 for a given make-up-removing product.
The results of the percentage of removal of make-up (percentage of make-up removed) for each composition are given in the table below.
This table shows that the composition according to the invention is much more effective in removing make-up than the compositions of the comparative examples, even in comparison with the composition of Comparative Example 5, which comprises a surfactant (PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides) having a structure analogous to that of PEG-7 caprylic/capric glycerides.
The make-up-removing effectiveness of Example 1 according to the invention was evaluated in comparison with make-up-removing milks which comprise oils.
The make-up-removing milks had the following compositions:
The make-up-removing power for the eyes was evaluated according to the same test as that described for Comparative Examples 4-7.
These results show that the composition according to the invention is much more effective in removing make-up than make-up-removing milks respectively comprising 19.5% and 15% of make-up-removing oils, which are the levels commonly used in make-up-removing milks.
Tests on a Panel
Furthermore, two in vivo tests were carried out with the composition of Example 3 according to the invention on a panel of 50 people for 4 weeks. In the first test, the composition was used as make-up remover for the eyes and, in the second test, the composition was used as make-up remover for the face and for the eyes.
The results are as follows:
1) Test No. 1:
make-up-removing effectiveness of Example 3 as make-up remover for the eyes
Protocol:
Number of subjects: 50
Criteria for inclusion: Subjects of all skin types, including 50% using a waterproof make-up, 20% having sensitive eyes, 20% wearing contact lenses, 10% having normal eyes.
Duration of the treatment: 4 weeks
Area of application: eyes
Experimental scheme: removal of make-up once daily
Results
(the % values correspond to the percentages of people who have recorded the criterion)
The people who used the composition according to the invention assessed all the cosmetic criteria (87% to 98%), in particular the gentleness of the composition for the eyes and the nongreasy and nontacky aspect of the composition.
Furthermore, the people who used the composition according to the invention assessed the criteria of effectiveness (49% to 98%), in particular the removal of make-up gently, the absence of drying out the skin of the outline of the eye, the complete removal of make-up from the eyes and the feeling of freshness on the eyes. Approximately half of the subjects found that the composition removed the make-up in a single movement, which is not normal in the removal of make-up. Overall, the composition according to the invention obtained a very good assessment of its effectiveness on the sensitive area of the region of the eyes.
2) Test No. 2:
make-up-removing effectiveness of Example 3 as make-up remover for the face and eyes
Protocol:
Number of subjects: 42 people
Criteria for inclusion: Subjects having normal to combination skin, daily using make-up products for the face and eyes, including a minimum of 10 users of waterproof mascaras
Duration of the treatment: 1 week
Area of application: face and eyes
Experimental scheme: removal of make-up once daily, in the evening
Results:
Furthermore, the comfort was evaluated on the face and on the eyes:
In addition, the make-up-removing effectiveness was also evaluated:
These results show that a majority of the people who used the composition of the invention were satisfied with its effectiveness and with its comfort on use and the results confirm the excellent make-up-removing effectiveness on the face and the eyes of the composition according to the invention.
The above written description of the invention provides a manner and process of making and using it such that any person skilled in this art is enabled to make. and use the same, this enablement being provided in particular for the subject matter of the appended claims, which make up a part of the original description and including an aqueous make-up-removing cosmetic composition, wherein it comprises a derivative (product) of polyethylene glycol and of a mixture of glycerides of caprylic acid and of capric acid comprising 7 ethylene oxide groups in an amount of less than 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
As used herein, the phrases “selected from the group consisting of,” “chosen from,” and the like include mixtures of the specified materials. Terms such as “contain(s)” and the like as used herein are open terms meaning ‘including at least’ unless otherwise specifically noted.
All references, patents, applications, tests, standards, documents, publications, brochures, texts, articles, etc. mentioned herein are incorporated herein by reference. Where a numerical limit or range is stated, the endpoints are included. Also, all values and subranges within a numerical limit or range are specifically included as if explicitly written out.
The above description is presented to enable a person skilled in the art to make and use the invention, and is provided in the context of a particular application and its requirements. Various modifications to the preferred embodiments will be readily apparent to those skilled in the art, and the generic principles defined herein may be applied to other embodiments and applications without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. Thus, this invention is not intended to be limited to the embodiments shown, but is to be accorded the widest scope consistent with the principles and features disclosed herein.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 05 52821 | Sep 2005 | FR | national |
This application claims priority to U.S. provisional application Ser. No. 60/723,006 filed Oct. 4, 2005, and to French patent application 0552821 filed Sep. 20, 2005, both incorporated herein by reference.
| Number | Date | Country | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 60723006 | Oct 2005 | US |
