This application claims priority of European patent application No. EP22207491.0 filed Nov. 17, 2022, the content of which is hereby incorporated by reference herein in its entirety.
The present invention relates to a process for manufacturing a timepiece component. The invention also relates to a timepiece component per se, and also to a timepiece comprising such a timepiece component.
In the field of watch- or clock-making, it is sometimes desirable to add ornamental elements to a component, for example to a bracelet strand. More generally, it may be desired to add various elements and/or functionalities to a particular component.
To produce such an addition, it is necessary to achieve all or some of the following objectives:
Thus, the general aim of the present invention is to propose a solution for manufacturing a timepiece component comprising at least one complementary element and/or one additional functionality, while at the same time having an aesthetically attractive result, with satisfactory mechanical properties, which is reliable and robust, and easy to obtain, and in a repeatable manner.
To this end, the invention is based on a process for manufacturing a timepiece component comprising at least one fastening element, wherein it comprises the following steps:
The invention also relates to a timepiece component, in particular a bracelet strand, comprising at least one fastening element, wherein the timepiece component is based on an overmoulded material at least partially enveloping and setting said at least one fastening element within the timepiece component.
The invention is more precisely defined by the claims.
These objects, features and advantages of the present invention will be presented in detail in the following description of particular embodiments given on a non-limiting basis in relation to the accompanying figures, in which:
Throughout the text hereinbelow, the adjectives “upper” and “lower” will be used to refer to the future positioning of the timepiece component. For example, in the case of a bracelet strand, the adjective “lower” denotes the orientation intended to be on the wrist side of a wearer and the adjective “upper” denotes the opposite orientation.
The invention will be described, by way of example, in the specific case of manufacturing a bracelet strand. As a variant, it may also be used for manufacturing another timepiece component.
The two half-moulds 22, 23 respectively comprise the walls 221, 231 which are substantially flat and parallel in
The concept of the invention consists in positioning a fastening element within such a manufacturing mould, before filling the manufacturing mould with a material, so as to overmould the fastening element, i.e. to envelop it at least partially in said material, in a manner sufficient to set it in the material. This material corresponds to the main material of the bracelet strand and/or to the material that is visible from the upper surface and/or the lower surface of the bracelet strand, and will be referred to hereinbelow as the “material of the bracelet strand” or more simply as the “material”.
The mould may be filled by any means, notably by injection or compression moulding. In the case of an injection moulding process, the material is, for example, injected at a given pressure (typically between 80 bar and 150 bar, or even between 80 bar and 90 bar) into the cavity 21, while the mould is already closed and has a given temperature (typically between 150° C. and 250° C., or even between 150° C. and 200° ° C.). In the case of a compression moulding process, a preform or blank of strand material is positioned on the wall 231 before the mould is closed, and is then compressed at a given temperature (typically between 150° C. and 250° C., or even between 150° C. and 200° C.). In all cases, this material is positioned at least partly around one or more fastening elements, so as to envelop them and set them in the bracelet strand: this material thus overmoulds the fastening element(s).
Advantageously, the material is an elastomer or elastomer-based material, i.e. a material comprising at least 50% by weight of elastomer. In particular, the elastomer material may be a fluoro elastomer (FKM, FFKM or FEPM), or a natural rubber (NR) or synthetic rubber (SBR, HNBR, EPDM), or a vinyl methyl silicone (VMQ) or a fluoro silicone (FVMQ). More generally, the component material may be a polymer. It may notably be a thermoplastic or thermosetting polymer.
A first embodiment of a process for manufacturing a bracelet strand will now be detailed with reference to
In this first embodiment, each guide element 25 is a projecting element, fixed or integrally formed on a half-mould 23 of the mould 20, preferably on a fixed half-mould 23 of the mould 20.
For example, at least one guide element 25 may be machined, notably manufactured by electroerosion directly on the half-mould 23. Alternatively, at least one guide element 25 may be manufactured on an auxiliary plate, which is then fixed to the half-mould 23. Alternatively also, at least one guide element may be included, notably by driving, within an aperture formed on the half-mould 23.
In this first embodiment, each guide element 25 is in the form of a cylindrical stud which projects from the wall 231 of the lower half-mould 23, thus extending into the cavity 21 of the mould 20. The contour of the stud at least partially forms a first guide surface 251, which is intended to cooperate with a second guide surface 121, formed on the fastening element 12.
The fastening element 12 is itself in the form of a ring with an aperture 120 which is intended to receive the stud. The inner surface of the ring, delimiting the aperture 120, forms the second guide surface 121. In this embodiment, each fastening element 12 extends substantially over the entire height of the cavity 21 of the mould 20 (apart from the assembly clearance).
The process then comprises a second step, represented by
Advantageously, in this second step, the guide element 25 blocks any entry of material or considerably limits the entry of material into the aperture 120 of the fastening element 12. The outer contour of the fastening element 12, for its part, forms at least one binding surface 123 intended to come into contact with the material 11 injected or compressed around it.
The process then comprises a third step, represented by
In this first embodiment, each fastening element 12 is a ring comprising an aperture 120, which is intended to receive an ornamental element 13. In particular, the contour of the aperture 120 at least partially forms a second receiving surface 122, which is intended to cooperate with a first receiving surface 131 of an ornamental element 13. The process thus comprises a fourth step of setting an ornamental element 13 into at least one fastening element 12, as represented by
According to this first variant, the manufactured timepiece component 10, i.e. the bracelet strand, comprises three fastening elements 12, in the form of rings, each receiving an ornamental element 13. Each of the fastening elements 12 is in the form of a straight cylinder, the height e12 of which corresponds or substantially corresponds to the thickness e10 of the bracelet strand, defined by the material 11 outside the fastening elements 12. This material 11 is overmoulded or compressed around the fastening elements 12, notably on the binding surfaces 123 of the fastening elements 12. It should be noted that, according to this embodiment, the height of the guide elements 25 corresponds substantially to that of the fastening elements 12, and to that of the cavity 21, which itself corresponds to the thickness of the bracelet strand. The fastening elements 12 thus define apertures 120 passing through the thickness of the bracelet strand.
In order to promote the binding of the material 11 around the fastening elements 12, their binding surfaces 123 may be textured via a technique known to those skilled in the art, so as to make them particularly rough. Alternatively or additionally, these surfaces may be coated with a binding primer. According to this first variant, the binding surface 123 of a fastening element 12 forms the entire outer peripheral surface of the cylindrical ring forming the fastening element 12.
Moreover, according to this first variant, the ornamental elements 13 each comprise a chaton 13b within which is set a stone 13a that is visible from the upper surface 101 of the bracelet strand. Each chaton 13b is accessible here to allow, if necessary, disengagement of the ornamental element 13 from the lower surface 102 of the bracelet strand.
Advantageously, the fastening element 12 comprises here a first upper cylindrical portion, always defining a central aperture, terminating at its base in a disc or a second cylindrical portion arranged around the first cylindrical portion, which defines a seating 12a. The fastening element 12 is thus here a seating ring. Furthermore, in this second particular variant, the height e12 of the fastening element 12 is strictly less than the thickness e10 of the bracelet strand. The seating 12a of the fastening element 12 is thus embedded in the material 11 of the bracelet strand, i.e. in the thickness of the bracelet strand, since the material 11 extends on either side of the upper and lower surfaces of said seating 12a. This second embodiment variant allows the bending of the bracelet strand to be minimized locally, around the peripheral surface of the fastening element 12, notably around the first cylindrical portion of the fastening element 12, in particular at the seating 12a formed by the disc or the second cylindrical portion of the fastening element 12.
Optionally, in addition, a hooking element 14 may be associated with the fastening element 12. In this second implementation variant, this hooking element is in the form of a ring with an aperture 140, the diameter of which is intended for positioning around the fastening element, according to a step of the process according to the first embodiment more particularly represented by
In addition, the height of the guide element 25 associated with the fastening element 12 during the process for obtaining a bracelet strand according to the second variant is here strictly less than that of the cavity 21, as will be described hereinbelow. Thus, the aperture 120 of the fastening element does not form a through aperture in the thickness of the bracelet strand, but a blind aperture. As a result, the decorative element 13 set into the fastening element 12, as described in relation to the first implementation variant, is not visible from the lower surface 102 of the bracelet strand. Nevertheless, the conformation of the ornamental element 13, in particular of the chaton 13b, may be provided so that it can be actuated from this lower surface 102. For example, the chaton 13b may comprise an actuating surface 132b projecting from the fastening element 12, i.e. extending deeper into the thickness of the bracelet strand than the fastening element 12, so as to present a lower surface extending parallel or substantially parallel to the lower surface 102 of the bracelet strand, and in the vicinity of this lower surface. Such a surface may, for example, cooperate with dedicated tooling so as to allow disengagement of the ornamental element. Alternatively, the ornamental element 13, in particular the chaton 13b, may be shaped so that it cannot be actuated once it has been assembled within the fastening element 12. By way of example, the chaton 13b may be embedded within the fastening element 12, as will be illustrated with reference to
The first step of the process comprises, in addition to the process described in relation to the first variant, the positioning of a hooking element 14 around a fastening element 12, before or during the positioning of the latter around a guide element 25, as represented by
This second embodiment differs from the first in that it uses an insert 15 constituting the bracelet strand to be manufactured. Moreover, according to this embodiment, the at least one fastening element 12 is positioned within the mould cavity 21 by means of a guide element 35 previously positioned on such an insert 15 constituting the bracelet strand to be manufactured.
Thus, as is seen in
As is seen in
As shown in
The material 11 then fills the volume of the cavity 21, as represented by
The manufacturing process according to this second embodiment thus comprises the steps of the first embodiment and differs in that it comprises the steps specified below.
The first step of the process comprises a preliminary sub-step which consists in assembling at least one guide element 35 on an insert 15. This assembling may be performed by any means, other than the screwing described previously. Thus, the guide element 35 may, as a variant, be different from a screw as represented. It should be noted that this preliminary step may also comprise mounting a hooking element 14 around the fastening element 12.
The first step of positioning at least one fastening element 12 in the manufacturing mould is thus obtained by means of this guide element 35, and by means of an insert 15, which is itself preferentially positioned within the manufacturing mould.
The first step thus comprises, for example, positioning the insert 15 on the half-mould 23 of the mould. To do this, pins 41a, 41b are provided for threading, respectively, firstly into loops 152a, 152b of the insert 15, in particular the blade 151, and secondly into portions of housings 24a, 24b formed on the half-mould 23 of the mould. Thus, the blade 151 is positioned within the cavity 21, and is kept suspended at a distance from the opposite longitudinal walls 221, 231 of the mould 20 once the mould is closed.
After removing the bracelet strand from the mould, the process comprises an intermediate step which consists in removing the at least one guide element from the bracelet strand blank, notably by unscrewing according to the example illustrated. Next, an ornamental element 13 may, for example, be set within the aperture 120 of at least one fastening element 12, notably by engagement, as described with reference to the first embodiment.
In these embodiments, the resulting fastening element 12 rests on the insert 15.
The process according to the third embodiment constitutes an alternative to the second embodiment. The at least one fastening element 12 is positioned here on the insert 15 not by a guide element 35 previously positioned on the blade 151, but directly within an aperture 155 formed on the blade acting as guide element 35, as represented by
During the first step represented by
The first step also includes a further sub-step, represented by
After removal from the mould, the process comprises an intermediate step of removing the obstacle 40 formed by the filling material deposited in the aperture 120 of the fastening element 12, to free this aperture 120.
The other steps of the process remain identical to those described with reference to the second embodiment.
In all embodiments, the fastening element 12 may be manufactured from any material that can withstand the temperatures associated with the process. Advantageously, this material is more particularly suitable for enabling the ornamental element 13 to be engaged. By way of example, this material may be a metal alloy such as a copper alloy such as brass or CuBe2, or even a stainless steel.
In the implementation variants described previously, the fastening elements are intended to receive ornamental elements. They may of course be intended to receive any other element, for example in order to fulfil a new function. For example, in a particular bracelet construction comprising a pin buckle, the apertures of the fastening elements could form a series of aligned apertures, intended to receive the pin and thus participate in adjusting the length of the bracelet. Such a construction would have the advantage of eliminating any deformation of these apertures intended to receive the pin, which are usually formed directly on the bracelet strand by cutting the material. A fastening element according to the invention may thus fulfil various functions, and there is therefore not necessarily a permanent fixing of a different element in a fastening element.
Moreover, as described previously, in all the implementation variants, a fastening element may be in the form of a ring, optionally comprising a seating. Such a seating has the advantage of locally limiting the bending of the strap strand around the fastening element. Needless to say, the invention is not limited to the form of the fastening elements as represented, which may take any other form depending on the functionality required. For example, a fastening element may be in the form of a cylindrical or frustoconical ring or any other shape, arranged around an axis, for example of annular shape in cross-section to said axis. Preferentially, in all the implementation variants, the fastening element, in particular the ring acting as a fastening element, comprises a surface which is flush with the upper surface of the timepiece component.
In the embodiments described, a fastening element is positioned in a mould by means of at least one guide element. Such a guide element may be in various forms. For example, it may be an element projecting in a certain direction into a cavity of the manufacturing mould, notably arranged symmetrically around an axis parallel to said direction, notably cylindrical or frustoconical in shape and/or circular in cross-section to said axis. In addition or alternatively, the at least one guide element may be in the form of a magnetic element allowing a fastening element to be positioned. In this specific case, such a guide element is not necessarily in the form of an element projecting into a mould cavity.
According to a particular implementation variant of a bracelet strand comprising an insert, it may naturally be conceivable that at least one fastening element be arranged and/or positioned independently of said insert, for example by means of at least one guide element included in the manufacturing mould. In other words, it is possible to obtain a variant of a strand comprising an insert by at least partially performing the process according to the first mode.
Furthermore, in all the implementation variants, the fastening element may or may not be combined with a hooking element, the latter being provided to maximize the anchoring of the material constituting the envelope of the component around the fastening element. Preferentially, a hooking element may be made of aluminium or titanium foam.
As described previously, an ornamental element may be in the form of an assembly such as a stone set within a bezel. The stone may, for example, be a natural stone such as a precious stone (diamond, ruby, sapphire, emerald) or a fine stone, for instance jasper. The stone may also be organic, and may, for example, be in the form of a pearl or mother-of-pearl. The bezel may, for example, be manufactured from a precious alloy such as a gold-based alloy.
Alternatively, the ornamental element may be made in one piece. For example, it may be manufactured from a ceramic, for example a ceramic mainly or predominantly composed of zirconia, or alumina, or silicon nitride, or boron carbide, or aluminium nitride. Alternatively, the ornamental element may also be made of a composite material such as an alumina-zirconia ZTA/ATZ composite. Alternatively also, the ornamental element may be made of a precious metal alloy such as a gold or platinum based alloy. Moreover, it may comprise a pattern.
In the case where an insert is used, which notably fulfils a reinforcing function, this insert has been described as being in the form of a blade. Naturally, such a blade may occupy different surfaces, extend substantially continuously over a significant dimension of a bracelet strand, for example over at least 50% or even 70% of its length, or, as a variant, take on a restricted dimension, being located solely at the fastening element(s). Furthermore, the invention is not limited to a blade-shaped insert.
Finally, the invention has been described in the context of a bracelet strand. However, it may be applied to any timepiece component which may be at least partly made of a material that is suitable for moulding as described. For example, the timepiece component might be a bezel or a bezel disc attached to a bezel ring. The ornamental elements might thus, for example, include indexes.
The invention also relates directly to a bracelet strand, or more generally a timepiece component, comprising a fastening element overmoulded with a material, as described. Optionally, the timepiece component comprises an insert or reinforcement, also overmoulded with said material.
The invention also relates to a timepiece, notably a wristwatch, comprising such a bracelet strand, or more generally such a timepiece component.
Number | Date | Country | Kind |
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22207941.0 | Nov 2022 | EP | regional |