Patent Application
20130139841
The present invention relates to a method for caring for and/or making up wrinkles comprising the application, to a wrinkled skin, using an applicator, of a mixture formed extemporaneously from a pulverulent phase comprising at least one antiwrinkle active principle and from a supplementary composition comprising a solvent medium for the said antiwrinkle active principle.
For obvious reasons, consumers wish to retain for as long as possible a skin with a young appearance and thus exhibiting a minimum of wrinkles In order to meet this expectation, numerous care and/or makeup products have been developed which are dedicated to acting against wrinkles and fine lines and imperfections of relief or of colours. However, these products generally have a limited effectiveness, either because it is difficult to access formulations enriched in these antiwrinkle active principles or because a portion of these active principles is not sufficiently conveyed into the areas of the wrinkles and fine lines.
Consequently, conventional products do not make it possible to take optimal advantage of the antiwrinkle effectiveness of such active principles.
In order to compensate for this deficiency, the document WO 2007/020536 provides a novel method of application which consists in applying, to wrinkled skin, first of all a compact powder containing at least one antiwrinkle active principle and in then superimposing, on this deposited layer of powder present at the surface of the skin, a composition including a fatty and/or aqueous phase containing a solvent for the said active principle.
However, this method may be considered too restricting for consumers. Furthermore, in the case of a coloured makeup powder, the application of a liquid product in a second stage may damage the makeup result obtained.
Consequently, the object of the present invention is to provide a new mode of caring for and/or making up cutaneous wrinkles which is in particular devoid of the abovementioned disadvantage.
Furthermore, the development of cosmetic products dedicated to making up and/or caring for cutaneous wrinkles having satisfactory properties in terms of masking imperfections, of coverage, of hold or of comfort on deposition or also in terms of comfort in the applied state, for example by the absence of a feeling of tightness, relates to an ongoing objective.
Thus, according to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to a cosmetic method for caring for and/or making up wrinkled skin comprising at least the following stages consisting in:
a) having available an application means exhibiting an application surface;
b) bringing the said application surface into contact with, on the one hand, at least one composition in the form of a powder containing at least one antiwrinkle active principle, the said composition being substantially devoid of solvent for the said active principle, and, on the other hand, at least one solvent medium containing at least one solvent for the said active principle, the said composition and the said solvent medium coexisting separately; and
c) applying, to the said wrinkled skin, using the said application means, the composition thus withdrawn and associated with the said solvent medium.
According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a cosmetic method for caring for and/or making up wrinkled skin comprising at least the stages consisting in:
a) having available at least
b) impregnating and/or coating the application surface of the said application means with the said solvent medium, and
c) bringing the said application surface treated according to b) into contact with the said composition for the purposes of withdrawing the said composition, and
d) bringing the said application surface treated according to c) into contact with the said wrinkled skin, it being possible for stages b) and c) to be carried out consecutively in the chronological order b) then c), or simultaneously.
Within the meaning of the invention, the composition in the form of a powder and the solvent medium coexist separately, that is to say do not exist within one and the same composition.
According to a second variant, the method according to the invention can comprise at least the stages consisting in:
i) withdrawing the said composition at least in part with the said application surface of the said application means, and
ii) bringing the said composition, deposited on the application surface, into contact with the said solvent medium, it being possible for stages i) and ii) to be carried out consecutively in the chronological order i) then ii), or simultaneously.
According to a specific embodiment, the antiwrinkle active principle is hydrophilic and the associated solvent medium is formed at least in part of water.
The inventors have also found that the method as defined above appears to be particularly effective in softening wrinkles
Furthermore, as emerges from the examples below, the inventors have in addition observed that the deposited layer resulting from the implementation of a method according to the invention exhibits satisfactory properties in terms of masking imperfections, of coverage, of hold and of comfort on deposition or also of comfort in the applied state, that is to say by the absence of a feeling of tightness.
This is because it makes it possible to immediately conceal the wrinkles and to obtain, by virtue of the presence of the active principle in the hollow of the wrinkle, a strengthened biological effect with regard to the reduction in the depth of the wrinkles
In addition, a method according to the invention is advantageous in that it makes possible the use of application means which allow wet or dry application routes, in particular when the composition is provided in the form of a compact powder of “two-way cake” type.
Thus, the application means can be represented by all types of application means commonly used in cosmetics, such as, for example, a brush, a sponge or a roller.
According to a specific mode, the composition under consideration according to the invention and containing at least one antiwrinkle active principle additionally comprises at least one pulverulent colouring material.
According to a specific mode, the associated solvent medium can additionally comprise at least one agent with a tightening effect intended to immediately soften the wrinkles and fine lines of the skin.
This is because, unexpectedly, such a combination makes it possible to immediately conceal the wrinkles and to obtain, by virtue of the presence of the active principle in the hollow of the wrinkle, a strengthened biological effect with regard to the reduction in the depth of the wrinkles Contrary to all expectation, the presence of the associated solvent medium with a tightening effect does not interfere with the taking of the composition according to the invention with the application means but, on the contrary, facilitates it.
Within the meaning of the invention, the expression “in the form of a powder” covers the compositions of loose powder type and the compact compositions and more particularly the compact compositions, in particular of “two-way cake” type.
The composition in a powder form according to the invention can be a composition for making up and/or caring for the skin, in particular of the face and/or of the body, and can constitute a blusher, an eyeshadow, a face powder, a foundation, a concealer, a product for making up and/or caring for the body, a product for caring for the face or an antisun product.
According to a specific mode, it will be a composition for making up the skin, in particular a blusher, an eyeshadow, a face powder, a foundation or a concealer and preferably a foundation.
Antiwrinkle active principle
Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “antiwrinkle active principle” is understood to mean a compound of natural or synthetic origin which produces, when it is brought into contact with an area of wrinkled skin, a biological effect, such as the increase in the synthesis and/or in the activity of certain enzymes, this effect having the consequence of reducing the appearance of the wrinkles and/or fine lines.
Examples of antiwrinkle active principles which can be used in the present invention can be chosen from: desquamating agents; antiglycation agents; NO-synthase inhibitors; agents which stimulate the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or which prevent their decomposition; agents which stimulate the proliferation of fibroblasts and/or keratinocytes; agents which stimulate or reduce the differentiation of keratinocytes; muscle-relaxing and/or dermo-decontracting agents; agents which combat free radicals; and their mixtures.
Examples of such compounds are: adenosine; retinol and its derivatives, such as retinyl palmitate; ascorbic acid and its derivatives, such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; tocopherol and its derivatives, such as tocopheryl acetate; nicotinic acid and its precursors, such as nicotinamide; ubiquinone; glutathione and its precursors, such as L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid; C-662 -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, such as described in particular in Application EP-1 345 919; plant extracts and in particular rock samphire and olive leaf extracts, and also plant proteins and their hydrolysates, such as rice or soy protein hydrolysates; algal extracts and in particular Laminaria extracts; bacterial extracts; sapogenins, such as diosgenin, and the Dioscoreae extracts, in particular wild yam extracts, comprising the latter; α-hydroxy acids; β-hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid and (n-octanoyl)-5-salicylic acid; oligopeptides and pseudodipeptides and their acylated derivatives, in particular {2-[acetyl-(3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl)amino]-3-methyl-butyrylamino}acetic acid; hyaluronic acid fragments; sphingosines, such as salicyloyl phyto-sphingosine; and their mixtures.
According to a preferred embodiment, the antiwrinkle active principle is adenosine.
A composition according to the invention can comprise a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 8% by weight, indeed even from 1 to 5% by weight and better still from 2 to 5% by weight, indeed even from 3 to 5% by weight, of antiwrinkle active principle(s) in the solid state, with respect to its total weight.
As specified above, the antiwrinkle active principles are present in the solid state within the composition.
The antiwrinkle active principle can be naturally solid and in this state may remain within the cosmetic composition under consideration according to the invention, in particular from the viewpoint of a lack of solubility of the said active principle in the medium forming the said composition.
For example, it can be a hydrophilic antiwrinkle active principle which, within a cosmetic composition having an oily nature, cannot be dissolved. On the other hand, this dissolved state will advantageously be acquired when the solid particles of active principles are brought together with water, then forming at least in part the solvent medium required in parallel according to the method of the invention.
The compounds chosen from adenosine, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, and salicylic acid and its derivatives are very particularly suitable as hydrophilic active principles according to the invention.
The active principle particles can be obtained by milling. They have a size of between 1 and 100 microns, preferably between 5 and 50 microns and better still between 10 and 40 microns.
According to another variant, the antiwrinkle active principle is in the solid state in the composition according to the invention from the viewpoint of the fact that it is employed therein in a supported form or also in a form adsorbed on and/or absorbed in particles which exhibit a porous nature, allowing them to adsorb a sufficient amount of active principle.
They are preferably spherical or substantially spherical and advantageously have a volume-average diameter, of greater than 1 μm and less than 100 μm, advantageously of between 5 and 50 μm, indeed even ranging from 10 to 40 gm.
The volume-average size of the particles can be measured by various techniques. Mention may in particular be made of light scattering techniques (dynamic and static), Coulter counter methods, measurements by rate of sedimentation (related to the size via Stokes' law) and microscopy. These techniques make it possible to measure a particle diameter and, for some of them, a particle size distribution.
Preferably, the sizes and size distributions of the particles of the compositions according to the invention are measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle sizer of MasterSizer 2000 type from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, exact for isotropic particles makes it possible to determine, in the case of nonspherical particles, an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the work by Van de Hulst, H. C. “Light Scattering by Small Particles”, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
Mention may be made, as particles which can be used according to the invention, of organic particles, for example composed of polyamide (Nylon), and inorganic particles, for example composed of silica.
Use may be made, as polyamide particles, for example, of particles of Nylon 6, Nylon 6/6, Nylon 12 or Nylon 6/12, in particular particles of Nylon 12, having a mean particle diameter of 20 nm, sold in particular by Arkema under the trade name Orgasol 2002 D NAT COS 204.
Use may be made, as silica particles, of amorphous silica microspheres with a size of 20 μm, sold in particular by Asahi Glass under the trade name Sunsphere H-201.
The antiwrinkle active principle can represent at least 0.05%, preferably at least 0.1% and more preferably at least 0.5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the particles employed as support for the said active principle and present in the composition. In addition, the antiwrinkle active principle can represent at most 50% by weight, with respect to the total weight of these particles present in the composition.
The particles including the active principle are capable of being obtained according to an impregnation process comprising the following stages:
In the above process, the term “volatile” is understood to mean a compound which is liquid at a temperature of greater than or equal to 20° C. and which has a vapour pressure of greater than 1 mbar at 20° C. The vapour pressure is defined as the pressure at which a liquid and its vapour are in equilibrium.
According to avariant, the antiwrinkle active principle remains within the cosmetic composition according to the invention in a free form.
Composition in the powder form
As emerges from that which follows, the composition according to the invention is favourable to the use of the said antiwrinkle active principle in a solid state. In order to do this, it is substantially devoid of liquid medium capable of dissolving the said active principle.
In other words, a composition according to the invention is devoid of an amount of solvent(s) capable of promoting the dissolution of the said active principle.
More particularly, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight and better still less than 0.5% by weight of a compound, liquid at a temperature of between 20 and 37° C., in which the active principle can be dissolved (that is to say, forms a true solution) at a level of at least 0.05% by weight at a temperature of between 20 and 37° C. by simple stirring with a magnetic bar.
In particular, in the case where the active principle is hydrophilic, it is thus preferable for the composition used according to the invention to be an anhydrous composition.
The term “anhydrous composition” is understood to mean a composition comprising less than 2% by weight of water, indeed even less that 0.5% by weight of water, and in particular devoid of water. If appropriate, amounts of water which are as low can in particular be introduced by ingredients of the composition which may comprise residual amounts thereof.
Thus, a composition according to the invention comprises more than 95% by weight, indeed even more than 98% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, of the said active principle in an undissolved form.
Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention then has a sufficient hydrophobic nature to prevent it from disintegrating on contact with an aqueous medium.
The hydrophobic nature can be measured by depositing a drop of water (volume 4 microlitres) at the surface of the compact and by measuring its contact angle with the surface of the compact one second after the deposition of the drop (contact angle measuring device, for example the OCA 15 from Dataphysics). The contact angle must be greater than 90°, preferably greater than 100°.
According to a preferred variant, a composition in the powder form according to the invention is a compact powder of “two-way cake” type.
“Two-way cake” powders are specific cosmetic powders. They are provided in the form of compacted products and have the advantage of being able to be picked up using a dry application means, such as, for example, a dry sponge.
They can also be dedicated to being brought into contact with water, for example using a wet sponge or a wet applicator, where they can then be used as foundations.
Such powders are particularly valued by consumers.
This is because they are practical, compact and easy to use and make possible a two-fold use, both as powder and as foundation, while taking up the space only of a single product.
Applied dry, they provide a feeling of softness and of nongreasiness.
Applied with water, they provide a feeling of freshness.
“Two-way cake” powders are characterized more particularly in that they comprise between 75 and 99% of pulverulent compounds and between 1 and 20% of binder, that is to say of oily compounds which allow the pulverulent compounds to cohere.
Insofar as “two-way cake” powders can be dedicated to being picked up with a wet application means, such as a wet sponge, they exhibit a hydrophobic nature, in particular at the surface.
In the contrary case, the water of the wet sponge would in fact be incorporated in the powders, which would thus adhere to the application means. It would then be impossible to disintegrate a portion of the said powder in order to apply it subsequently to the face, for example.
The abovementioned hydrophobic compounds can be naturally hydrophobic or can be rendered hydrophobic by a surface treatment with a hydrophobic agent.
This hydrophobic treatment agent can be chosen in particular from:
The N-acylated amino acids can comprise an acyl group comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl and cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds can be aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid can, for example, be lysine, glutamic acid or alanine
For example, a composition according to the invention, according to this “two-way cake” variant dedicated to being employed with an aqueous solvent medium, can comprise at least 30% by weight, in particular at least 50% by weight, indeed even at least 65% by weight of hydrophobic compound(s) which is/are naturally hydrophobic or which is/are rendered hydrophobic by a surface treatment with a hydrophobic agent, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
In view of the above, these hydrophobic compounds are represented in particular by at least the abovementioned porous particles and/or the pigments, fillers and/or pearlescent agents as defined above.
A composition according to the invention can also comprise pigments and/or fillers, in particular when it is in the compact powder form.
Thus, according to a specific form, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pulverulent colouring material chosen in particular from pigments, pearlescent agents and their mixtures. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least pigments, in particular iron oxides.
The term “pigments” should be understood as meaning white or coloured and inorganic or organic particles of any shape which are insoluble in the composition and which are intended to colour it.
Mention may be made, among inorganic pigments, of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium or cerium oxides, and also zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, and metal powders, such as aluminium powder or copper powder. The pigments can also be chosen from micronized pigments formed of metal oxides, such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide and their mixtures.
Mention may be made, among organic pigments, of carbon black, pigments of D & C type, and lakes, in particular lakes, based on cochineal carmine, of barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium.
According to a preferred form, the composition according to the invention comprises inorganic pigments and in particular iron oxides.
The pigments can be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight and preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
A composition according to the invention can comprise an additional pulverulent colouring material other than the pigments described above which can be chosen in particular from pearlescent agents.
The term “pearlescent agent” should be understood as meaning iridescent particles of any shape, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shells or else synthesized. The pearlescent agents can be chosen from white pearlescent agents, such as mica covered with titanium oxide or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured pearlescent agents, such as titanium oxide-coated mica covered with iron oxides, titanium oxide-coated mica covered with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, or titanium oxide-coated mica covered with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and pearlescent agents based on bismuth oxychloride.
The pearlescent agents can be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 40% by weight and preferentially from 0.1% to 30% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the pulverulent colouring material(s) will be present in the composition in a content ranging from 4 to 15% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the said composition.
A composition according to the invention can, in addition or as an alternative form, comprise fillers other than the porous particles, the pearlescent agents and the pigments described above.
The term “fillers” should be understood as meaning colourless or white and inorganic or organic particles which are insoluble in the medium of the composition, whatever the temperature at which the composition is manufactured, and which do not colour the composition.
The fillers can be of any shape, platelet, spherical, hemispherical or oblong, whatever the crystallographic form (for example, sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, and the like). Mention may be made of: talc, mica, silica, kaolin, powders formed of poly-β-alanine and of polyethylene, powders formed of tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon®), lauroyl lysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymeric microspheres, such as those of poly(vinylidene chloride)/acrylonitrile, for example Expancel® (Nobel Industry), or of acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls® from Toshiba, for example), polyorganosiloxane elastomer particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, basic magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulphate, aluminium oxides, polyurethane powders, composite fillers, hollow silica microspheres and glass or ceramic microcapsules.
Preferably, these particles are treated at the surface with a hydrophobic treatment agent as described above.
The fillers chosen from:
A composition according to the invention, in particular of compact type, can also comprise at least 3% by weight, preferably at least 5% by weight, of spherical particles, preferably hydrophobic spherical particles, composed of organic polymers of Nylon® or PMMA type.
The fillers can be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 95% by weight, preferably from 1% to 85% by weight and preferentially from 1% to 80% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
A composition according to the invention can additionally comprise a fatty phase.
When this composition is in the compact powder form, this fatty phase is then described as binder and is composed, at 25° C., of liquid or waxy compounds which are insoluble in water and which do not have surfactant properties within the meaning of the McCutcheon and CTFA dictionaries.
This liquid fatty phase can be present at a concentration of between 1 and 20%, preferably between 5 and 12%, of the total weight of the composition.
This fatty phase can in particular comprise one or more oils and/or waxes normally used in compact powders. In particular, the fatty phase comprises oils.
Mention may be made, among the oils and waxes which can be used, of soybean oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, maize oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil or peanut oil; hydrocarbon oils, such as liquid paraffins, squalane, liquid petrolatum or polydecene; fatty esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, isodecyl stearate, hexyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl lactate, di(2-ethylhexyl) succinate, diisostearyl malate, glyceryl triisostearate or diglyceryl triisostearate; silicone oils, such as polymethylsiloxanes, polymethylphenylsiloxanes, polysiloxanes modified by fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, or fluorosilicones; perfluorinated oils; oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid; or higher fatty alcohols, such as cetanol or oleyl alcohol.
In addition, a composition according to the invention can comprise other ingredients (adjuvants) normally used in cosmetics, such as preservatives, UV screening agents, thickeners, surfactants, fragrances, indeed even other active principles.
The additional cosmetic active principles can be chosen from depigmenting active principles or active principles for greasy skin, such as desquamating active principles, antimicrobial active principles, seboregulating active principles and astringent active principles.
The term “depigment active principle” is understood to mean an active principle which acts on the vitality of the epidermal melanocytes where melanogenesis takes place or which interferes with one of the stages in the biosynthesis of melanin, either by inhibiting one of the enzymes involved in melanogenesis or by being inserted as structural analogue of one of the chemical compounds in the sequence for the synthesis of melanin, which sequence can then be blocked and thus ensure depigmentation.
This depigmenting active principle can be chosen, for example, from kojic acid, ellagic acid, ascorbic acid and derivatives, ferulic acid, vitamin B8, vitamin B3, resorcinol derivatives (for example: phenylethyl resorcinol), undecylenoyl phenylalanine and caffeine.
The term “active principle for greasy skin” is understood to mean a compound which has a biological activity which can in particular be a desquamating activity, an antimicrobial activity, a seboregulating activity or a cicatrizing or astringent activity.
This active principle for greasy skin can be chosen, for example, from salicylic acid and derivatives, ascorbic acid and derivatives, and copper and zinc salts.
Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional adjuvant or adjuvants added to the composition according to the invention so that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition in accordance with the invention are not, or not substantially, detrimentally effected by the envisaged addition.
The composition according to the invention is advantageously provided in the compact powder form which can be prepared by mixing the ingredients of the pulverulent phase (polyamide particles, fillers, pearlescent agents and pigments which may be present) and by then adding the fatty phase with stirring, the mixture being subsequently milled (for example with a powder mixer of Baker type), sieved, then poured into a dish and compacted.
The milled and sieved mixture of the pulverulent phase and of the fatty phase is, for example, compacted using a press, in particular by applying a pressure ranging from 0.5 MPa to 10 MPa and preferably ranging from 1 MPa to 5 MPa.
In an alternative form, the composition under consideration according to the invention can be provided in a form similar to modelling clay and can in this case comprise up to 40% by weight of binder.
Associated solvent medium
Within the meaning of the invention, a “solvent medium” denotes, generally, a physiologically acceptable solvent or a mixture of physiologically acceptable solvents which, from the viewpoint of a composition according to the invention, makes it possible either to dissolve the antiwrinkle active principle present in the solid state in the compositions or to release the active principle present in an adsorbed or absorbed form on or in porous particles, as described above.
The term “physiologically acceptable” is understood to mean that the solvent is compatible with the skin. Preferably, the solvent is cosmetically acceptable, that is to say that it is not capable, at the level at which it is employed, of causing unacceptable discomfort (smarting, redness, tightness, and the like) to the user liable to dissuade her from using this composition.
The amount of solvent for the active principle depends on the level of active principle present in the associated composition and is adjusted so as to bring a maximum amount of active principle into contact with the skin, optionally in combination with the water naturally present on the skin, when the active principle is hydrophilic.
The nature of the solvent depends on the active principle.
As specified above, the active principle is advantageously a hydrophilic antiwrinkle active principle, in which case the composition comprising it is anhydrous and the associated solvent medium is formed at least partly of water.
A water suitable for the invention can be a floral water, such as cornflower water, and/or a mineral water, such as water from Vittel, water from Lucas or water from La Roche-Posay, and/or a thermal water.
The aqueous medium can also comprise organic solvents which are miscible with water (at ambient temperature—25° C.), such as, for example, monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; polyols having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferentially having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms), such as mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4)alkyl ethers or mono-, di- or triethylene glycol (C1-C4)alkyl ethers, and their mixtures.
The aqueous medium can additionally comprise stabilizing agents, for example sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride and magnesium sulphate.
It can also be per se a medium which can be described as active principle as such, such as a serum.
Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds and/or their amounts so that the advantageous properties of the composition to be applied according to the invention are not, or not substantially, detrimentally affected by the envisaged addition.
The solvent medium can be provided in all the formulation forms conventionally used for a topical application and in particular in the form of dispersions of the lotion or gel type, of emulsions with a liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O/W) or vice versa (W/O), or of suspensions or emulsions with a soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or also of multiple (W/O/W or O/W/O) emulsions, of microemulsions, of vesicular dispersions of ionic and/or nonionic type, or of wax/aqueous phase dispersions. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.
According to a specific embodiment, the aqueous medium is provided in the form of a cream, of a lotion, of a serum or of a gel. It will preferably be in the aqueous gel, serum, oil-in-water emulsion or emulsified gel form. It is preferably fluid, so as to be able to easily wet the applicator and/or the associated composition.
It comprises a high proportion of aqueous phase, at least 50% by weight, preferably 60% by weight, better still 70% by weight, with respect to its total weight.
The choice of the solvent medium may also condition additional benefits such as freshness and lightness, which are particularly appreciated cosmetic properties of the part of consumers.
The solvent medium under consideration can also comprise any supplementary compound compatible with the solvent phase under consideration, such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, surfactants and their mixtures, indeed even a tightening agent.
According to a preferred form, the said solvent medium additionally comprises at least one tightening agent.
“Tightening agent” which can be used in the solvent medium of the invention is understood to mean compounds capable of having a tightening effect, that is to say which can render the skin taut.
Such compounds are described in Application EP 2 026 882.
Generally, the term “tightening agent” is understood to mean any compound which is soluble or dispersible in water at a temperature ranging from 25° C. to 50° C. at the concentration of 7% by weight in water or at the maximum concentration at which it forms a medium of uniform appearance and which produces, at this concentration of 7% or at this maximum concentration in water, a retraction of more than 15% in the test described below.
The maximum concentration at which it forms a medium of uniform appearance is determined to within about ±10% and preferably to within about ±5%.
The term “medium of uniform appearance” is understood to mean a medium not exhibiting aggregates visible to the naked eye.
For the determination of the said maximum concentration, the tightening agent is gradually added to the water with stirring using a deflocculator at a temperature ranging from 25° C. to 50° C. and then the mixture is kept stirred for one hour. It is subsequently observed, after 24 hours, whether the mixture thus prepared is of uniform appearance (absence of aggregates visible to the naked eye).
The tightening effect can be characterized by an in vitro retraction test.
A homogeneous mixture of the tightening agent in water, at the concentration of 7% by weight or at the maximum concentration defined above, is prepared beforehand and as described above.
30 μl of the homogeneous mixture are deposited on a rectangular test specimen (10×40 mm, thus exhibiting an initial width W0 of 10 mm) of an elastomer having a modulus of elasticity of 20 MPa and a thickness of 100 μm.
After drying at 22±3° C. and 40±10% relative humidity RH for 3 h, the test specimen of elastomer exhibits a retracted width, denoted W3h, due to the tension exerted by the tightening agent deposited.
The tightening effect (TE) of the said agent is then quantified in the following way:
TE′=(W0−W3h/W0)×100 as %
with W0=initial width 10 mm and W3h=width after drying for 3 h
The tightening agent can be chosen from:
a) vegetable or animal proteins and their hydrolysates;
b) polysaccharides of natural origin;
c) mixed silicates;
d) colloidal particles of inorganic fillers;
e) synthetic polymers;
and their mixtures.
Mention may in particular be made of:
a) Vegetable or animal proteins and their hydro lysates
These are in particular proteins and protein hydrolysates of maize, rye, wheat, buckwheat, sesame, spelt, tobacco, peas, broad beans, lentils, soya, almonds and lupins. Mention may in particular be made, as animal proteins, of proteins extracted from silk, milk, whey and eggs.
b) Polysaccharides of natural origin
These polysaccharides have a high molecular weight, generally ranging from 100 to 10 000 kD. Mention may in particular be made of carragheenans, which are composed in particular of alternating β-1,3- and α-1,4-galactose residues, it being possible for numerous galactose residues to be sulphated, and which are present in particular in some red algae; mention may also be made of agars, for example extracted from red algae and composed of alternating 1,4-L-galactose and 1,3-D-galactose residues. A third family of polysaccharides is composed of polysaccharides of bacterial origin known as gellans. These are polysaccharides composed of an alternation of glucose, glucuronic acid and rhamnose residues. Mention may also be made of the polysaccharides belonging to a family of the alginates and pectins.
c) Mixed silicates
This expression is understood to mean all silicates of natural or synthetic origin including at least two different cations chosen from alkali metals (for example Na, Li or K), alkaline earth metals (for example Be, Mg or Ca) and transition metals. Use is preferably made of phyllosilicates, namely silicates having a structure in which the SiO4 tetrahedra are arranged in layers between which are enclosed the metal cations. A family of silicates which is particularly preferred as tightening agents is that of the laponites. Laponites are sodium magnesium lithium silicates having a layered structure similar to that of montmorillonites. Laponite is the synthetic form of the natural mineral known as “hectorite”. Use may be made, for example, of the laponite sold under the name Laponite XLS or Laponite XLG by Rockwood. In the specific case of the laponites, a concentration far below 7% will be used in the retraction test described above.
d) Colloidal particles of inorganic fillers
The term “colloidal particles” is understood to mean particles in dispersion in an aqueous, aqueous/alcoholic or alcoholic medium, preferably an aqueous medium, and having a number-average diameter of between 0.1 and 100 nm, preferably between 3 and 30 nm.
The colloidal particles of inorganic fillers which are used in the associated solvent medium are generally chosen from colloidal particles of silica, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, alumina, calcium carbonate, barium sulphate, calcium sulphate, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, colloidal particles of platinum, or mixed colloidal particles, such as, for example, titanium dioxides coated one or more times, such as titanium dioxide with a silica coating. Use will preferably be made of colloidal silicas or composite silica/alumina colloidal particles.
Mention may be made, as colloidal silicas, for example, of those sold by Catalysts and Chemicals under the names Cosmo S-40 and Cosmo S-50.
Mention may be made, as composite silica/alumina colloidal particles, for example, of those sold by Grace under the names Ludox AM, Ludox AM-X 6021, Ludox HSA and Ludox TMA.
e) Synthetic polymers
The synthetic polymers used according to the invention can be in solution or in suspension in a polar or nonpolar liquid (latex), in particular in aqueous solution or aqueous dispersion, or a dry form which can be redispersed in a cosmetic solvent.
The synthetic polymers which can be used as tightening agent can be chosen from:
The synthetic polymers according to the invention can be chosen in particular from interpenetrating polymer networks (IPNs).
These polymers can in particular be in the form of random linear copolymers, of interpenetrating polymer networks (IPNs), of polycondensates, of grafted silicone polymers and of block polymers. Whatever its nature, the synthetic polymeric tightening agent can have a weight-average molecular weight Mw varying from 3000 to 1 000 000 Da.
Mention may be made, among preferred synthetic polymeric tightening agents, of grafted silicone polymers in particular, such as defined in Application EP-1 038 519. A polymer comprising a silicone or polysiloxane (Si—O— polymer) main chain, to which is grafted, inside the said chain and optionally at at least one of its ends, at least one organic group not comprising silicone may more particularly be concerned.
A preferred example of grafted silicone polymer is polysilicone-8 (CTFA name), which is a polydimethylsiloxane to which are grafted, via a connecting link of thiopropylene type, mixed polymer units of the poly((meth)acrylic acid) type and of the poly(alkyl (meth)acrylate) type, in particular of the poly(C1-C3 alkyl (meth)acrylate) type, indeed even of the poly(C1 alkyl (meth)acrylate) type.
It can thus be a polydimethylsiloxane grafted with propylthio(poly(methyl acrylate/methyl methacrylate/methacrylic acid)) or a polydimethylsiloxane grafted with propylthio(poly(methyl acrylate)), propylthio(poly(methyl methacrylate)) and propylthio(poly(methacrylic acid)). In an alternative form, it can be a polydimethylsiloxane grafted with propylthio(poly(isobutyl methacrylate)) and propylthio(poly(methacrylic acid)). Use is preferably made of a polydimethylsiloxane grafted with propylthio(poly(methyl acrylate/methyl methacrylate/methacrylic acid)).
A polymer of this type is available in particular under the trade name VS 80 or VS 70 (at 10% in water) or LO 21 (in the pulverulent form) from 3M.
The tightening agent can be present in the associated solvent medium in the process of the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the associated solvent medium.
The associated solvent medium can additionally comprise various adjuvants commonly used in the cosmetics field, such as emulsifiers, including glyceryl fatty acid esters, sugar fatty acid esters which are optionally polyoxyethylenated, polyoxyethylene fatty acid esters and sorbitan fatty acid esters; fillers, including fillers with a soft focus effect, such as colloidal dispersions of silica or of composite silica/alumina filler, or also polyamide fibres; wax microparticles, for example chosen from carnauba, candelilla or esparto waxes; preservatives; sequestering agents; colorants; fragrances; and thickening and gelling agents, in particular acrylamide homo- and copolymers, acrylic homo- and copolymers and acrylamidomethylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS) homo- and copolymers.
It can also comprise antiwrinkle active principles, antibacterial active principles, antiseborrheic active principles, depigmenting active principles chosen in particular from those listed above, and other active principles, such as soothing active principles, moisturizing active principles or active principles which activate the cutaneous micocirculation or the energy metabolism without this list being limiting.
As specified above, the method according to the invention comprises at least the following stages, consisting in:
i) impregnating and/or coating the application surface of the said application means with the said solvent medium, and
ii) bringing the said application surface, thus impregnated and/or coated, into contact with the said composition in the form of a powder;
it being possible for stages i) and ii) to be carried out consecutively in the chronological order i) then ii), or simultaneously.
The application means can thus be dedicated, first, to the withdrawal of a portion of the solvent medium present in an associated container, secondly, to the withdrawal of a portion of the composition present in a second associated container and, finally, to the application of the composition thus withdrawn at the surface of a keratinous substance.
From the viewpoint of the various possible alternative embodiments, these two stages i) and ii), impregnation of the application means with the solvent medium and bringing into contact with the composition, can, in a first alternative embodiment, be carried out consecutively, as is the case in particular when the container containing the solvent medium is separate from the application means. The user will, in a first step, have to bring the solvent medium into contact with the application surface, for example by “dipping” the application means in the solvent medium, prior to the withdrawal of the composition in the form of a powder.
In another variant, stages i) and ii) can be carried out simultaneously, as is the case when the solvent medium is stored in a container integral with the application means and is directly delivered to the surface of the application means.
The user can thus directly withdraw from the pulverulent phase forming the composition, for example by rubbing and/or pressing the surface of the application means at the surface of the composition, the surface of the said application means being simultaneously coated with the appropriate solvent medium originating from a reservoir integral with the application means.
According to another variant of the method according to the invention, stage b) of bringing the application surface of the said application means into contact with at least the associated composition and at least a solvent medium comprises more specifically the following stages, consisting in:
i) bringing the said composition into contact with the said solvent medium, and
ii) bringing the said surface of the application means into contact with the said composition thus “wetted” by the said solvent medium;
iii) bringing the said surface of the application means treated according to (ii) into contact with the skin,
it being possible for stages i) and ii) to be carried out consecutively in the chronological order i) then ii), or simultaneously.
For example, stage i) of this second alternative form can more particularly be carried out by depositing one or more drops of the said solvent medium at the surface of the cake of composition.
Just as for the first alternative form set out above, stages i) and ii) of this second alternative embodiment can be carried out consecutively. According to another embodiment, they can be carried out simultaneously using, for example, a suitable application device, for example exhibiting, in addition to the application means, an appropriate tip, integral with a container containing the solvent medium, which makes it possible to “wet” the surface of the composition, simultaneously with the movement of the application means over this surface.
The container containing the cosmetic composition to be applied may or may not be integral with the application means, during use or storage. Preferably, it is nonintegral.
As regards the application means, it can have an application surface of the following type: foam comprising open or closed cells, which cells are optionally flocked, flocking, elastomer, sintered material, woven material or nonwoven material. It can in particular be an application means of sponge, brush, including fine brush, or flocked tip type or a roller. It is preferably provided in the form of a fine brush, of a sponge or of a roller. It can be vibrating, rotating or heating.
The choice of the application means may be conditioned by the area to be treated.
Thus, according to one embodiment, in particular when the wrinkled skin is composed of the eyelids, the application means can be a fine brush.
According to another embodiment, in particular when the wrinkled skin is a part of the face chosen from the cheeks, the forehead or the chin, the application means according to the invention comprises an application surface capable, in response to the movement thereof in engagement with the skin to be treated, of rotating about at least one axis or centre of rotation.
It is understood that this ability to undergo rotation in response to a movement of the application surface over the skin to be treated is also confirmed during the movement of this application surface over the composition to be withdrawn.
Such an application means is described in particular in Application FR 2 945 191, which is incorporated in the present patent application by way of reference.
Such an application means can be defined by a roller, a ball or a band positioned around two rollers having parallel axes of rotation.
The application means is dedicated, one the one hand, to the withdrawal of at least a portion of the composition according to the invention and of at least a portion of the solvent medium, present separately in the associated container, and, on the other hand, to the application of the mixture thus withdrawn at the surface of the skin to be treated.
In a first step, the passage of the external surface of the application means and more particularly of the roller at the surface of the composition according to the invention brings about the rotation of this.
In a second step, bringing the external surface of the application means and more particularly of the roller into contact with the solvent medium brings about the loading, indeed even the rotating, of this.
The application means is then impregnated or coated with the mixture of the composition according to the invention and of the solvent medium by rubbing and/or pressing.
In view of the above, the two stages above can also be carried out in reverse order. Thus, the external surface of the application means is, in a first step, charged with at least a portion of the solvent medium and then with at least a portion of the composition according to the invention.
In a third step, the resulting passage of the external surface of the application means and more particularly of the roller at the surface of the skin to be treated brings about the rotation of this and the spreading of the mixture of the composition according to the invention and of the solvent medium positioned at its external surface.
In an alternative embodiment, the application means can be provided with a detachable brake which makes it possible to block or to slow down, if necessary, the free rotation thereof during the withdrawal and/or application.
The external face of the application means is formed, at least at the surface, of a material favourable to the withdrawal of the composition according to the invention and of the solvent medium and to the retention of the composition according to the invention and of the solvent medium until they are applied to the skin to be treated.
For example, the application surface dedicated to contact with the skin to be treated can in particular be a foam comprising open or closed cells, which cells are optionally flocked, a flocking, an elastomer, a sintered material, a woven material or a nonwoven material.
The external surface of the application means may or may not be smooth. Thus, this application means can advantageously have raised areas at the surface, generally humped and rounded, advantageous in jointly providing a massaging effect.
According to a preferred alternative form, its design is similar to that of an applicator roller, such as those employed for the application of paint. Such applicators, used for cosmetic purposes, are described in particular in the documents FR 985 064 (lip makeup powder), FR 1 524 192 (powder), FR 1 281 338 (compact product) and FR 2 848 790 (solid or fluid cosmetic product).
Thus, the application means is advantageously provided in the form of a hollow or solid roller which rotates about an axis of rotation. This axis of rotation can advantageously be positioned perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the device.
Preferably, this roller is a sponge roller. The application means may or may not be integral with the container containing the composition and the solvent medium during use or storage. According to a preferred alternative form, it is nonintegral.
The container may or may not also be integral with the application means during the application, to the skin, of the mixture of the composition according to the invention and of the solvent medium.
According to a preferred embodiment, the application means and the container are put together in one and the same packaging combination, for example the same case provided with a base, separately containing the composition according to the invention and the solvent medium and exhibiting a housing for receiving the application means, and with a lid which is movable relative to the base, for example articulated thereon.
According to another embodiment, the application means is integral with the container separately containing the composition and the solvent medium during use or storage, and also during application.
Thus, according to the specific embodiment, the rotation of the roller, brought about by the contact and the movement of the said packaging combination with the skin to be treated, brings about the resulting charging of the roller with the composition in the powder form and the solvent medium, or vice versa, and in the application of the mixture thus obtained to the skin to be treated.
The use of such a type of rotary application means for the application of a composition according to the invention in association with the solvent medium at the surface of skin to be treated makes it possible to obtain an effect additional to that obtained with a conventional applicator, such as a sponge or a powder puff. In particular, the effect obtained proves to be significantly improved in terms of homogeneity of deposition.
This is because the deposit layer obtained is very fine, uniform and free of marks and confers a discreet, indeed even natural, effect.
Thus, the visual appearance of the deposited layer obtained is perfectly clean, that is to say devoid of the phenomenon of caking which usually emerges after numerous uses.
During application, such an application means can rotate without sliding over the skin. Several successive passes can be carried out at the same place. During successive passes, the user can slightly modify the direction of rolling, in order to soften the edges of the deposited layer of the composition.
Furthermore, the use of such an application means makes it possible to obtain a massaging effect on the skin, with a feeling of wellbeing.
Thus, the use of such an application means proves, on the one hand, to be easy and, on the other hand, to be likely to provide sensory feelings pleasant to the user.
According to an advantageous embodiment, the composition in the powder form according to the invention is a compact powder of two-way cake type in which the antiwrinkle active principle is in a free form.
According to an even more advantageous embodiment, the composition in the powder form according to the invention is a compact powder of two-way cake type in which the antiwrinkle active principle is in a free form and the application means comprises an application surface capable, in response to the movement thereof in engagement with the skin to be treated, of rotating about at least one axis or centre of rotation, and, preferably, the application means is a roller and better still a sponge roller.
The following paragraphs illustrate the advantages of the use of the method according to the invention in some specific cases. Of course, the present invention is in no way limited to the various embodiments which follow.
Antiageing compact powder dedicated to a face application
1LP-S-100 from Miyoshi Kasei
2SI-2 Talc JA-46R from Daito Kasei
3TZ Powder Type 2 from Miyoshi Kasei
4LL-5 CR 50 from Daito Kasei
5NAI-Pigment from Miyoshi Kasei
6KSP 100 from Shin Etsu
7DC9701 Cosmetic Powder from Dow Corning
The various ingredients are first mixed with a powder mixer of Baker Perkins type and then milled with a Hosokawa Micron pin mill. The powder is subsequently sieved and compacted. The contact angle of a drop of water at the surface is 110°.
Associated solvent medium in the form of a gel with a tightening effect
8L021 Dry from 3M
9Hostacerin AMPS from Clariant
10Orgasol 2002 Nat Cos from Arkema
The polymer polysilicone-8 is dissolved in the water at 80° C. with the sodium hydroxide. The mixture is subsequently cooled and the other ingredients are added with stirring.
The associated solvent medium in the form of a gel with a tightening effect is used to wet a sponge in a first step and then the powder is withdrawn using the impregnated sponge and applied over the whole of the face.
According to another embodiment, the sponge is replaced by a roller made of foam.
According to yet another embodiment, the tightening gel is first applied to the skin with the applicator and then the powder is withdrawn with the applicator, still impregnated with gel.
Very good masking of the colour and relief imperfections is obtained in all cases and immediately. The adenosine is preferentially localized in the wrinkles and fine lines and acts as antiwrinkle active principle over time after dissolution in the water.
Furthermore, the deposited layer obtained by application, to the skin of the face, of the mixture resulting from the combination of the solvent medium with the powder exhibits satisfactory properties in terms of coverage, of hold, of comfort on deposition or of comfort in the applied state, that is to say by the absence of a feeling of tightness.
Kit for outline of the eyes application
The kit is composed of a compact powder and of an associated solvent medium in the form of an emulsified gel as are described in Example 1, and of a fine brush with a width of 15 mm.
The fine brush is connected continuously to the tightening gel. Impregnated with emulsified gel, it is used to withdraw the powder, which is deposited on the wrinkles and fine lines of the outline of the eye.
An immediate effect of masking the colour and relief imperfections around the eyes is obtained.
Furthermore, the deposited layer obtained exhibits satisfactory properties in terms of coverage, of hold, of comfort on deposition or of comfort in the applied state, that is to say by the absence of a feeling of tightness.
Antiageing and concealer eye kit
Antiageing eye correcting powder
1 to 7see Example 1
The preparation protocol is identical to that described for Example 1 above.
Emulsified care gel with a concealer effect
9Hostacerin AMPS from Clariant
11Haloxyl ® from Sederma
The water, the surfactant (PEG-20), the adenosine, the caffeine, the glycerol and the preservatives are heated to 70° C. until the solid compounds have completely dissolved.
Subsequently, the other ingredients are gradually added to the mixture under cold conditions.
The kit is composed of a rectangular compartment in which the eye correcting power is arranged, of the gel with a concealer effect and of a fine brush with a width of 10 mm.
The fine brush is connected continuously to the gel. Under the action of a pump, the fine brush is impregnated with gel.
The fine brush thus impregnated is subsequently used to withdraw the powder, which is deposited around the entire outline of the eye.
An immediate effect of masking the colour and relief imperfections around the eyes is obtained.
The shadows, wrinkles and fine lines are softened.
The active principles present subsequently act in a lasting fashion with regard to the outline of the eyes.
Furthermore, the deposited layer obtained by application, around the entire outline of the eye, of the mixture resulting from the combination of the gel with the powder exhibits satisfactory properties in terms of coverage, of hold, of comfort on deposition or of comfort in the applied state, that is to say by the absence of a feeling of tightness.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 10 52470 | Apr 2010 | FR | national |
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind | 371c Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/IB2011/051331 | 3/29/2011 | WO | 00 | 1/23/2013 |
| Number | Date | Country | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 61350588 | Jun 2010 | US |
