Patent Application
20090156485
The invention relates to a method of producing keratin-binding effector molecules, and to intermediates and end-products of the method according to the invention and to the use of the keratin-binding effector molecules produced according to the invention in dermocosmetics.
Vertebrate cells comprise filaments, of which one group is constructed from keratins. Specific proteins, such as, for example, desmoplakin or plakophilin 1, bind to these keratins, which also occur in hair, skin and fingernails and toenails, by means of a specific sequence motif, a so-called keratin-binding domain (Fontao L, Favre B, Riou S, Geerts D, Jaunin F, Saurat J H, Green K J, Sonnenberg A, Borradori L., Interaction of the bullous pemphigoid antigen 1 (BP230) and desmoplakin with intermediate filaments is mediated by distinct sequences within their COOH terminus., Mol Biol Cell. 2003 May; 14(5):1978-92. Epub 2003 Jan. 26; Hopkinson S B, Jones J C., The N-terminus of the transmembrane protein BP180 interacts with the N-terminal domain of BP230, thereby mediating keratin cytoskeleton anchorage to the cell surface at the site of the hemidesmosome, Mol Biol Cell. 2000 January; 11(1):277-86); Smith E. A., Fuchs E., Defining the Interactions Between Intermediate Filaments and Desmosomes, The Journal of Cell Biology, Volume 141, 1998).
The human skin is subject to certain aging processes, some of which are attributable to intrinsic processes (chronoaging) and some of which are attributable to exogenous factors (environmental, e.g. photoaging). In addition, temporary or persisting changes in the appearance of the skin can arise, such as acne, greasy or dry skin, keratoses, rosacea, photosensitive, inflammatory, erythematous, allergic or autoimmune reactions, such as dermatoses and photodermatoses.
Exogenous factors include, in particular, sunlight or artificial sources of radiation with a comparable spectrum, and also free-radical or ionic compounds which can arise as a result of the radiation. These factors also include cigarette smoke and the reactive compounds present therein, such as ozone, free radicals, singlet oxygen and other reactive oxygen or nitrogen compounds which disturb the natural physiology or morphology of the skin.
In Germany, since 1968 the total ozone has decreased overall by just under 10%, or by around 3% per decade. In the same period, UV radiation has increased by about 15%.
Sunburn-causing UV-B radiation about 300 nm in wavelength has the greatest cancer effectiveness. It increases the risk of falling ill with so-called nonmelanoma skin cancer (spinalioma or epidermoid cancer or basalioma or basal cell cancer). In this connection, the risk of tumors increases with the number of sunburns. In particular, UV exposure in the first ten years of life (sunburn in the case of children) influences the risk of cancer.
According to WHO estimates, every year two million people throughout the world fall ill from basal cell carcinomas and epidermoid carcinomas of the skin and about 200 000 from melanoma. In Germany, the number of new cases of skin cancer is about 120 000, of which 7 percent are melanomas. Every year in Germany, about 1600 deaths are attributable to melanoma or nonmelanoma skin cancer. (Ärztezeitung May 17, 2000)
To prevent and treat the abovementioned damage, diseases and also the care and decorative treatment of skin, hair, fingernails and toenails, there is an ever increasing need for new active ingredients and products and for innovative application methods thereof.
The German patent application with the file reference DE 102005011988.3 describes the use of keratin-binding domains in cosmetic preparations. The international patent application with the file reference PCT/EP/051005599 reveals that keratin-binding domains can also be coupled with effector molecules.
It was an object of the present invention to provide new types of dermocosmetic active ingredient compounds for application to skin, hair fingernails and toenails, and also methods for the production thereof. Advantageously, active ingredient compounds were to be identified which have a keratin-binding property and in addition are suitable for producing cosmetic and/or dermocosmetic formulations or preparations. In addition, it was an object of the present invention to identify suitable compounds which can be coupled to a polypeptide with keratin-binding properties via a covalent bond. In particular, it was an object of the present invention to provide an innovative application method for dermocosmetically active ingredients. Furthermore, the object was to provide a method of increasing the residence time of a dermocosmetically active ingredient on skin, hair and/or fingernails and toenails.
In a first embodiment, the invention relates to a method of producing a keratin-binding effector molecule by coupling an effector molecule (i) carrying at least one carboxyl or sulfonic acid group onto a keratin-binding polypeptide (ii) using a linker molecule (iii) which has at least two coupling functionalities which can enter into bonds chosen from the group consisting of amide, thioester, ester, sulfonic acid ester and sulfonamide bonds, and
In a further embodiment of the invention, the coupling according to the invention of the linker molecule (iii) with the effector molecule (i) takes place via a carbodiimide-mediated esterification reaction.
In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the effector molecule (i) used in the method according to the invention is chosen from the group consisting of dyes, photoprotective agents, vitamins, provitamins, carotenoids, antioxidants and peroxide decomposers.
In a particularly preferred embodiment, keratin-binding polypeptides (ii) are used which have a binding affinity to human skin, hair or nail keratin.
Preferably, the keratin-binding polypeptide (ii) used according to the invention comprises
Preferably, the keratin-binding polypeptide (ii) used according to the invention has a binding affinity to human skin, hair or nail keratin and can preferably be encoded by a nucleic acid molecule comprising at least one nucleic acid molecule chosen from the group consisting of:
In the method according to the invention, the linker molecules (iii) according to the general formula 1
where “n” is an integer between 0 and 20 and Y is a hydroxy or amino group, are most preferred. Amino groups may be primary or secondary amino groups.
In a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the linker molecule (iii) is a maleimidoalkanol, very particularly preferably maleimidopentanol.
In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, it is a method in which
The invention also relates to keratin-binding effector molecules, where the effector molecule (i) is coupled indirectly to the keratin-binding polypeptide via a linker molecule (iii) and the linker molecule (iii) is not a maleimide, the keratin-binding polypeptide (ii) does not correspond to the SEQ ID NO.: 166 and the effector molecule (ii) is not a fluorescent dye.
In a preferred embodiment, it is a keratin-binding effector molecule which comprises, as keratin-binding polypeptide (ii), a polypeptide or protein comprising one of the sequences according to SEQ ID No.: 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66, 68, 70, 72, 74, 76, 78, 80, 82, 84, 86, 88, 90, 92, 94, 96, 98, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 110, 112, 114, 116, 118, 120, 122, 124, 126, 128, 130, 132, 134, 136, 138, 140, 146, 150, 153, 156, 157, 158, 160, 162, 164, 166, 168 or 170 as linker molecule (iii) maleimidopentanol was used and the effector molecule (i) is 2-(4-N,N-diethylamino-2-hydroxy)benzoylbenzoic acid or 2-(4-N,N-dialkylamino-2-hydroxy)benzoylbenzoic acid derivatives (as described above).
The invention further provides the use of the above-described keratin-binding effector molecules according to the invention in dermocosmetics, where particularly preferred dermocosmetics to be mentioned are: skin protection compositions, skincare compositions, skin cleansing compositions, hair protection compositions, haircare compositions, hair cleansing compositions, hair colorants, compositions for the care of fingernails and toenails and decorative cosmetics.
The invention further provides compounds of the formula 2,
where “n” corresponds to an integer between 0 and 20.
The present invention further provides dermocosmetics comprising a keratin-binding effector molecule produced according to the method described above, where the keratin-binding polypeptide (ii) does not correspond to the SEQ ID No.: 166.
For the purposes of the present invention, “antibodies” are proteins which humans and jaw-bearing vertebrates produce to protect against antigens (infection pathogens or biological material alien to the body). They are a central constituent of the immune system of higher eukaryotes and are secreted by a class of white blood corpuscles, the B cells. They occur in blood and in the extracellular liquid of tissue.
For the purposes of the present invention, “backtranslation” means the translation of a protein sequence into a nucleic acid sequence coding for this protein. The backtranslation is thus a process of decoding an amino acid sequence into the nucleic acid sequence corresponding to it. Customary methods are based on creating organism-specific codon usage tables, which are produced by computer-aided sequence comparisons. Using the codon usage tables it is possible to determine the codons used most frequently for a certain amino acid for a specific organism. Protein backtranslation can be carried out using computer programs which are known to the person skilled in the art and specifically generated for this purpose (Andrés Moreira and Alejandro Maass. TIP: protein backtranslation aided by genetic algorithms. Bioinformatics, Volume 20, Number 13 Pp. 2148-2149 (2004); G Pesole, M Attimonelli, and S Liuni. A backtranslation method based on codon usage strategy. Nucleic Acids Res. 1988 Mar. 11; 16(5 Pt A): 1715-1728).
“Carboxy groups”, also referred to as carboxylic acids, in connection with the description of “effector molecule carrying carboxyl group” means free COOH groups or carboxyl groups which enable molecules carrying these COOH groups to be covalently bonded to other molecules via an esterification reaction or amide formation reaction. For the purposes of the present invention, “carboxy groups” are also those which can be converted chemically into COOH functions, such as, for example, derivatives, such as carboxymethyl, carboxyethyl. In this connection, the effector molecules according to the invention have at least one carboxy group. However, it is also possible to use effector molecules with two, three or more carboxy groups.
“Decorative cosmetics” means cosmetic auxiliaries which are not primarily used for the care, but for beautifying or improving the appearance of skin, hair and/or fingernails and toenails. Auxiliaries of this type are appropriately known to the person skilled in the art and comprise, for example, kohl pencils, mascara, eye shadows, tinted day creams, powders, concealing sticks, blusher, lipsticks, lipliner sticks, make-up, nail varnish, glamour gel etc. Also included are compositions suitable for coloring skin or hair.
“Dermocosmetics”, also referred to as “cosmeceuticals” or “dermocosmetic compositions” or “dermocosmetic preparations” are compositions or preparations (i) for protecting against damage to skin, hair and/or fingernails and toenails, (ii) for treating existing damage to skin, hair and/or fingernails or toenails and (iii) for the care of skin, hair and/or fingernails or toenails, comprising skin cosmetic, nail cosmetic, hair cosmetic, dermatological, hygiene or pharmaceutical compositions, preparations and formulations and for improving the feel of the skin (sensory properties). Compositions for decorative cosmetics are explicitly included. Also included are compositions for skincare, with which the pharmaceutically dermatological intended use is achieved taking into consideration cosmetic points of view. Compositions or preparations of this type are used for helping, preventing and treating skin disorders and, besides the cosmetic effect, develop a biological effect. For the purposes of the definition given above, “dermocosmetics” comprise, in a cosmetically compatible medium, suitable auxiliaries and additives which are familiar to the person skilled in the art and can be found in cosmetics handbooks, for example Schrader, Grundlagen und Rezepturen der Kosmetika [Fundamentals and formulations of cosmetics], Hüthig Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989, ISBN 3-7785-1491-1, or Umbach, Kosmetik: Entwicklung, Herstellung und Anwendung kosmetischer Mittel [Cosmetics: development, manufacture and use of cosmetic compositions], 2nd extended edition, 1995, Georg Thieme Verlag, ISBN 3 13 712602 9.
For the purposes of the present invention, “dermocosmetic active ingredients” or “dermocosmetically active ingredients” are the active ingredients present in dermocosmetics according to the definition given above which are involved in realizing the individual mode of action of the dermocosmetics. These are thus, for example, active ingredients which bring about protection against damage to skin, hair and/or fingernails or toenails, (ii) can be used for treating existing damage to skin, hair and/or fingernails and toenails, (iii) have skin, hair and/or finger or toenail caring properties and (iv) are used for decorative beautification or improvement in the appearance of skin, hair and/or fingernails and toenails. Also included are active ingredients for skincare with which the pharmaceutically dermatological intended use is achieved taking cosmetic points of view into consideration. Active ingredients of this type are used for helping, preventing and treating skin disorders and, besides the cosmetic effect, develop a biological effect. Active ingredients of this type are chosen, for example, from the group of natural or synthetic polymers, pigments, humectants, oils, waxes, enzymes, minerals, vitamins, sunscreens, dyes, perfumes, antioxidants and preservatives and pharmaceutical active ingredients which are used for helping, avoiding and treating skin disorders and have a biological effect which heals, prevents damage, regenerates or improves the general condition of the skin.
For the purposes of the present invention, “effector molecule” means molecules or dermocosmetic active ingredients which have a certain foreseeable effect preferably a biological or physiological, protective, preventative and/or caring effect on skin, hair and/or fingernails or toenails and/or have a cosmetically decorative effect. The effector molecules are preferably nonproteinogenic compounds, such as dyes, photoprotective agents, vitamins, provitamins, antioxidants and fatty acids, conditioners or compounds containing metal ions, very particularly preferably vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from the groups A, B, C, E and F, where vitamins B1, B2, B3 and B5 are particularly preferred. Preferred photoprotective agents are those based on amino-substituted hydroxybenzophenone, particularly preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4′-methylbenzophenone, 2,2′-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, most preferably 2-(4-N,N-dialkylamino-2-hydroxy)benzoyl)benzoic acid.
“Increase in the residence time of dermocosmetic active ingredients on skin, hair and/or fingernails or toenails” means a temporally extended residence time and thus availability of this active ingredient on skin and/or hair compared with active ingredients which are not coupled to keratin-binding polypeptides. Preferably, increased residence time on skin, hair and/or fingernails or toenails means a temporal presence of the active ingredient on skin, hair and/or fingernails or toenails increased by 10%, 15%, 20%, particularly preferably 30%, 40%, 50%, very particularly preferably 75%, 100%, 125%, most preferably 150%, 200%, 300%, most preferably of all 500%, 750%, 1000%, compared with the identical uncoupled active ingredient under otherwise identical application conditions.
For the purposes of the present invention, “keratin” means intermediate filaments constructed from rope-like protein complexes. Intermediate filaments are constructed from many proteins of the same type (monomers) which position themselves in parallel to give a tube-like structure. Intermediate filaments are bound to give relatively large bundles (tonofibrils). Intermediate filaments form the cytoskeleton of the cell with the microtubules and actin filaments. A distinction is made between five types of intermediate filaments: acidic and basic keratins, desmins, neurofilaments and lamins. Of specific preference for the purposes of the present invention are the acidic and basic keratins occurring in the epithelia (single or multiple cell layers which cover all external body surfaces of multicellular animal organisms). “Keratin” or “keratins” (also: horny substance, scleroprotein) means a protein which is responsible for the stability and shape of the cells. This protein is a constituent of mammal skin, hair and nails. The strength of keratin is increased through fiber formation: the individual amino acid chains form a right-handed alpha-helix, and every three of these helixes form a left-hand superhelix (=protofibrils). Eleven protofibrils combine to give a microfibril—these combine in turn to give bundles and form macrofibrils which, for example, surround the cells of the hair.
“Keratin-binding polypeptide” means a polypeptide or a protein which has the property of binding to keratin, within the meaning of the definition given above. Keratin-binding polypeptides are thus also intermediate filament-associated proteins. These keratin-binding polypeptides have a binding affinity toward the keratin or the macrostructures consisting of keratin such as protofibrils, microfibrils or macrofibrils. In addition, keratin-binding polypeptides are understood as meaning those polypeptides which have a binding affinity to skin, hair and/or fingernails or toenails of mammals.
“Keratin-binding polypeptides” are also polypeptides which, within a mammal organism, have a biological function associated with the binding of keratin, keratin fibers, skin or hair. Keratin-binding polypeptides likewise means the binding motifs or protein domains necessary for the actual binding to the keratin, the keratin fibers, skin or hair. The binding of the keratin-binding polypeptide (ii) to keratin can be tested under the conditions described in Example 8, 9 and 10. Keratin-binding polypeptides are those polypeptides which, in the abovementioned quantitative keratin-binding tests, have about 10%, 20%, 30%, 40% or 50%, preferably 50%, 60%, 70%, 80% or 90%, particularly preferably 100%, 125%, 150%, very particularly preferably 200%, 300% or 400%, most preferably 500%, 600%, 700% or 1000% or more of the keratin-binding capacity of desmoplakin (SEQ ID No.: 2), preferably of the keratin-binding domain B of desmoplakin (SEQ ID No.: 4).
For the purposes of the present invention, cosmetic compositions for oral care, dental care, gum care and denture care means all compositions, preparations and supply forms suitable for oral hygiene, dental hygiene, gum hygiene and denture hygiene as described in textbooks, e.g. Umbach: Kosmetik: Entwicklung, Herstellung und Anwendung kosmetischer Mittel [Cosmetics: development, manufacture and use of cosmetic compositions], chapter 7, page 187-219, 2nd expanded edition, 1995, Georg Thieme Verlag, ISBN 3 13 712602 9, to which reference is hereby expressly made. These compositions, preparations and supply forms are familiar to the person skilled in the art and comprise, for example, dental powders, dental creams, toothpastes, dental creams for children, dental gels, liquid dental creams, mouthwashes, mouth rinses, ointments and pastes, although this list is not to be deemed exhaustive. The manufacture of such compositions is familiar to the person skilled in the art and can be found in general textbooks (e.g. Umbach: Kosmetik: Entwicklung, Herstellung und Anwendung kosmetischer Mittel [Cosmetics: development, manufacture and use of cosmetic compositions], 2nd expanded edition, 1995, Georg Thieme Verlag, ISBN 3 13 712602 9). Thus, besides the keratin-binding effector molecules according to the invention and/or produced according to the inventive method, these compositions also comprise further ingredients known to the person skilled in the art. These may, for example, be surfactants, cleaning bodies, active ingredients, binders, humectants, consistency regulators, preservatives, dyes, aromas and sweeteners, although this list is not to be deemed exhaustive. The specified active ingredients are preferably active ingredients which are used for gum inflammations or for injuries in the oral cavity. In addition, these active ingredients can be effective, for example, in combating plaque bacteria or protecting the gum. Reference is hereby explicitly made to the formulation examples shown in the textbook Umbach: Kosmetik: Entwicklung, Herstellung und Anwendung kosmetischer Mittel [Cosmetics: development, manufacture and use of cosmetic compositions], 2nd expanded edition, 1995, Georg Thieme Verlag, ISBN 3 13 712602 9, on pages 205 to 207.
“Cosmetically compatible medium” is to be understood in the wide sense and means substances suitable for the production of cosmetic or dermocosmetic preparations, and mixtures thereof. They are preferably protein compatible media.
Upon contact with human and/or animal skin tissue or hair, “cosmetically compatible substances” lead to no irritations or damage and have no incompatibilities with other substances. In addition, these substances have a slight allergenic potential and are approved by state registration authorities for use in cosmetic preparations. These substances are familiar to the person skilled in the art and can be found, for example, in cosmetics handbooks, for example Schrader, Grundlagen und Rezepturen der Kosmetika [Fundamentals and formulations of cosmetics], Hüthig Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989, ISBN 3-7785-1491-1.
“Nucleic acid” or “nucleic acid molecule” means deoxyribonucleotides, ribonucleotides or polymers or hybrids thereof in single-strand or double-strand form, in sense or antisense orientation. The term nucleic acid or nucleic acid molecule can be used to describe a gene, DNA, cDNA, mRNA, oligonucleotide or polynucleotide.
“Nucleic acid sequence” means a successive and linked together sequence of deoxyribonucleotides or ribonucleotides of a nucleic acid molecule according to the definition given above, as can be ascertained using available DNA/RNA sequencing techniques, and depicted or shown in a list of abbreviations, letters or words which represent nucleotides.
For the purposes of the present invention, “polypeptide” means a macromolecule constructed from amino acid molecules in which the amino acids are linked together linearly via peptide bonds. A polypeptide can be made up of a few amino acids (about 10 to 100), but also comprises proteins which are generally constructed from at least 100 amino acids, but can also comprise several thousand amino acids. Preferably, polypeptides comprise at least 20, 30, 40 or 50, particularly preferably at least 60, 70, 80 or 90, very particularly preferably at least 100, 125, 150, 175 or 200, most preferably at least more than 200 amino acids, it being possible for the upper limit to be several thousand amino acids.
“Homology” or “identity” between two nucleic acid sequences is understood as meaning the identity of the nucleic acid sequence over the entire sequence length in question, which is calculated by comparison with the help of the program algorithm GAP (Wisconsin Package Version 10.0, University of Wisconsin, Genetics Computer Group (GCG), Madison, USA; Altschul et al. (1997) Nucleic Acids Res. 25:3389ff) with the following parameter settings:
By way of example, a sequence which has a homology of at least 80% based on nucleic acid with the sequence SEQ ID NO: 1 is understood as meaning a sequence which has a homology of at least 80% when compared with the sequence SEQ ID NO: 1 according to the above program algorithm with the above set of parameters.
Homology between two polypeptides is understood as meaning the identity of the amino acid sequence over the entire sequence length in question, which is calculated by comparison with the help of the program algorithm GAP (Wisconsin Package Version 10.0, University of Wisconsin, Genetics Computer Group (GCG), Madison, USA) with the following parameter settings:
By way of example, a sequence which has a homology of at least 80% based on polypeptide with the sequence SEQ ID NO: 2 is understood as meaning a sequence which has a homology of at least 80% when compared with the sequence SEQ ID NO: 2 according to the above program algorithm with the above set of parameters.
“Hybridization conditions” is to be understood in the wide sense and means stringent or less stringent hybridization conditions depending on the application. Such hybridization conditions are described, inter alia, in Sambrook J, Fritsch E F, Maniatis T et al., in Molecular Cloning (A Laboratory Manual), 2nd edition, Cold Spring Harbor Laboratory Press, 1989, pages 9.31-9.57) or in Current Protocols in Molecular Biology, John Wiley & Sons, N.Y. (1989), 6.3.1-6.3.6. The person skilled in the art would choose hybridization conditions which would allow him to differentiate specific hybridizations from unspecific hybridizations. For example, the conditions during the washing step can be chosen from conditions with low stringency (with approximately 2×SSC at 50° C.) and those with high stringency (with approximately 0.2×SSC at 50° C., preferably at 65° C.) (20×SSC: 0.3M sodium citrate, 3M NaCl, pH 7.0). Moreover, the temperature during the washing step can be increased from low stringency conditions at room temperature, approximately 22° C., to higher stringency conditions at approximately 65° C. Both parameters, salt concentration and temperature, can be varied at the same time or individually, keeping the other parameter in each case constant. During the hybridization, it is also possible to use denaturing agents such as, for example, formamide or SDS. In the presence of 50% formamide, the hybridization is preferably carried out at 42° C. Some illustrative conditions for hybridization and washing step are given below:
1. Hybridization conditions can be chosen, for example, from the following conditions:
500 mN of sodium phosphate buffer pH 7.2, 7% SDS (g/V), 1 mM EDTA, 10 μg/ml single stranded DNA, 0.5% BSA (g/V) (Church and Gilbert, Genomic sequencing. Proc. Natl. Acad. Sci. U.S.A. 81:1991. 1984)
2. Washing steps can be chosen, for example, from the following conditions:
In one embodiment the stringent hybridization conditions are chosen as follows:
A hybridization buffer is chosen which comprises formamide, NaCl and PEG 6000. The presence of formamide in the hybridization buffer destabilizes double stranded nucleic acid molecules, as a result of which the hybridization temperature can be reduced to 42° C. without lowering the stringency. The use of salt in the hybridization buffer increases the renaturation rate of a duplex, or the hybridization efficiency. Although PEG increases the viscosity of the solution, which has a negative effect on renaturation rates, as a result of the presence of the polymer in the solution, the concentration of the probe in the remaining medium is increased, which increases the hybridization rate. The composition of the buffer is as follows:
The hybridizations are carried out overnight at 42° C. The filters are washed the next morning 3× with 2×SSC+0.1% SDS for about 10 min in each case.
“Coupling” in connection with the binding of a linker molecule to an effector molecule or keratin-binding protein means a covalent linking of said molecules.
“Coupling functionalities” are functional groups of a linker molecule which can enter into a covalent bond with functional groups of the effector molecule or keratin-binding protein. Nonlimiting examples which may be mentioned are: hydroxy groups, carboxyl groups, thio groups and amino groups. “Coupling functionalities” or “coupling functionality” and “anchor groups” or “anchor group” are used synonymously.
“Sulfonic acid groups” in connection with the description of “effector molecule carrying sulfonic acid group” means free SO3H groups which allow molecules carrying these SO3H groups to be covalently linked to other molecules via an esterification reaction or amide formation reaction. For the purposes of the present invention, “sulfonic acid groups” are also those which can be converted chemically into SO3H functions, such as, for example, derivatives such as, for example, methyl sulfonate, ethyl sulfonate. In this connection, the effector molecules according to the invention have at least one sulfonic acid group. However, it is also possible to use effector molecules with two, three or more sulfonic acid groups.
The present invention provides a method of producing a keratin-binding effector molecule by coupling an effector molecule (i) carrying at least one carboxyl or sulfonic acid group onto a keratin-binding polypeptide (ii) using a linker molecule (iii) which has at least two coupling functionalities which can enter into bonds chosen from the group consisting of amide, thioester, ester, sulfonic acid ester and sulfonamide bonds, and
In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the linker molecule (iii) has at least two coupling functionalities or anchor groups, of which at least one of these groups is a hydroxy or amino group. The coupling of the linker molecule (iii) to the effector molecule takes place via the hydroxy or amino group, and the effector linker molecule is coupled to the keratin-binding polypeptide (ii) with the remaining anchor group.
Preferred binding linkages of the linker molecule (iii) to the keratin-binding polypeptide (ii) take place via amino, thiol or carboxyl groups which, for example with a hydroxy group of the linker molecule (iii), if appropriate following activation, can enter into a corresponding amide, thioester or ester bond.
In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the linker molecule (iii) has at least two different coupling functionalities, very particular preference here being given to linker molecules (iii) which have a maleimide group.
Most preferred is the use of the linker molecules (iii) represented by the general formula 1,
where “n” is an integer between 0 and 20, preferably between 0 and 15, particularly preferably between 1 and 10, very particularly preferably between 1 and 8, and Y is a hydroxy or amino group. Amino groups may be primary or secondary. The linker molecule (iii) is very particularly preferably a maleimidoalkanol. The maleimidoalkanols are preferably maleimidoethanol, most preferably of all maleimidopentanol.
In a further particularly preferred embodiment, the linker molecule (iii) has at least two different coupling functionalities and additionally a module which increases the hydrophilicity or lipophilicity. This preferred linker molecule is depicted in formula 1b,
where “n” is an integer between 0 and 40 or 0 and 20, preferably between 0 and 15, particularly preferably between 0 and 10, very particularly preferably between 1 and 9, or between 2 and 8, or between 3 and 7, and X is the radicals O, S, N, CH2, —O—C═O, O═C—O—, —NR, —NR—C═O, O═C—NR—, and R is H, C1-C12 branched or unbranched alkyl groups, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, tert-pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, or cycloalkyl, benzoyl, benzyl, C6 to C10-aryl groups, such as phenyl and naphthyl, heteroaryl, preferably H, methyl and ethyl, and the “module” is an ethylene glycol or polyethylene glycol radical having 2 to 40, preferably 2 to 20, particularly preferably 2 to 10, repeat units, or an amino acid, preferably chosen from the group consisting of glycine, alanine, serine, threonine, glutamic acid, glutamine, aspartic acid, asparagine, arginine and cysteine, or a polypeptide having 2 to 40, preferably 2 to 20, particularly preferably 2 to 10, amino acids, where the amino acids are preferably polar amino acids, particularly preferably chosen from the group consisting of glycine, alanine, serine, threonine, glutamic acid, glutamine, aspartic acid, asparagine, arginine and cysteine, or a polyacrylic acid radical having 2-100, preferably 2-80, particularly preferably 2-50, most preferably 2-20, monomer units, or
for increasing the lipophilicity the “module” is an alkyl radical having 2-40 carbon atoms or polyolefin radical having 2 to 40, preferably 2 to 20, particularly preferably 2 to 10, repeat units, or an amino acid, preferably chosen from the group consisting of glycine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tryptophan, proline, methionine, or a polypeptide having 2 to 40, preferably 2 to 20, particularly preferably 2 to 10, amino acids, where the amino acids are preferably nonpolar amino acids, particularly preferably chosen from the group consisting of glycine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tryptophan, proline, methionine, or a polyester, polyamide or polyurethane having 2-100, preferably 2-80, particularly preferably 2-50, most preferably 2-20 monomer units, and Y is a functional group of hydroxy or amino groups.
In a moreover preferred embodiment, the linker molecule is a molecule according to the general formula 1c,
where X in the o, m or p position is OH, NH2, R—OH or RNH2, and R is a C1-C12 linear or branched alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, Isobutyl, sec-butyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, tert-pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, or a cyclic alkyl group such as a C5-C12-cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C1-C4-alkyl groups, or an o-, m- or p-oriented aryl, benzyl or benzoyl unit, preferably cyclohexyl, phenyl and naphthyl.
In a further preferred embodiment, R can also be the “module” described in formula 1b.
In a further preferred embodiment, the coupling of the linker molecule (iii) with the effector molecule (i) described in (a) is a carbodiimide-, anhydride- or acid chloride-mediated esterification reaction or amide formation, where the use of the acid chloride of the linker molecule (iii) is particularly preferred. Carbodiimide-, anhydride- or acid chloride-mediated reaction means the activation of the carboxyl group of the linker molecule (iii) required for the formation of an ester or amide between linker molecule (iii) and effector molecule (i) by reaction with carbodiimides, by reaction to give a symmetrical or mixed anhydride or by reaction to give the acid chloride.
Carbodiimides to be mentioned are preferably dicyclohexylcarbodiimide (DCC), diisopropylcarbodiimide (DIC), N′-(3-dimethylaminopropyl)-N-ethylcarbodiimide hydrochloride (EDC), where the use of diisopropylcarbodiimide or EDC are particularly preferred. In addition, it is possible to carry out an activation with carbonyldiimidazole (CDI). These esterifications are carried out in the presence of 0.1-100 mol % of N,N-dimethylaminopyridine (DMAP), preferably 0.5-10%, particularly preferably 1-6%. The formation of amides can take place by reacting the compound activated with carbodiimide with the amine. Optionally, the amide formation can be carried out in the presence of additives, such as, for example, N-hydroxysuccinimide, pentafluorophenol or N-hydroxybenzotriazole. Such additives are known to the person skilled in the art. If active esters isolatable through these additives are obtained, the reactions of these isolated active esters with the effector molecules are also understood according to the invention as carbodiimide-mediated esterification.
The reaction of the linker molecule (iii) to give the anhydride takes place by general methods, as are known to the person skilled in the art. Preference is given to the use of mixed anhydrides, as are obtained, for example, by reaction with acetic anhydride, pivaloyl anhydride, acetyl chloride, pivaloyl chloride or chloroformic esters. Particular preference is given to pivaloyl anhydrides and to the anhydrides with carbonic acid. When using the acid chlorides, it is expedient to carry out the anhydride formation in the presence of a tertiary base, such as, for example, pyridine, triethylamine.
The coupling of the linker molecule (iii) with the effector molecule (i) described under (a) can preferably be carried out after the above-described activation of the linker molecule (iii) to give the anhydride in the presence of a base. Preferred bases to be mentioned are: aromatic and tertiary alkylamines, e.g. pyridine, triethylamine, tributylamine, trioctylamine, ethyldiisopropylamine etc. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the base used is triethylamine.
Preferred solvents for the amide formation to be mentioned are: halogenated hydrocarbons (dichloromethane, chloroform, 1,2-dichloroethane), ethers (THF), DMF, NMP, esters (acetic esters), aromatic and aliphatic hydrocarbons (benzene, toluene, hexane, heptane), acetonitrile, acetone, methyl ethyl ketone, alcohols (methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, trifluoroethanol), water, and mixtures thereof.
Activation of the “2-(4-N,N-dialkylamino-2-hydroxybenzoylbenzoic acid derivatives (as described above)” during the ester formation is possible through reaction with carbodiimides (e.g. EDC) in the presence of catalytic amounts N,N-dimethylaminopyridine (DMAP) in methylene chloride as solvent.
In a further preferred embodiment, the coupling of the linker molecule (iii) with the effector molecule (i) described under (a) is carried out with activation of the effector molecule (i) in the presence of catalytic amounts of N,N-dimethylaminopyridine (DMAP).
The invention thus further preferably provides the use of DMAP as catalyst in methylene chloride as solvent, where the linker molecule (iii) used is maleimidopentanol, and the effector molecule (i) used is 2-(4-N,N-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoylbenzoic acid.
In a further preferred embodiment, the coupling of the linker molecule (iii) with the effector molecule (i) described under (b) to give esters, thioesters or amides takes place following activation as acid chloride, where the use of the acid chloride of the effector molecule (i) is preferred (acid-chloride-mediated reaction). Many effectors are also commercially available in the form of their acid chlorides (palmitoyl chloride for example). These can be used directly without further activation. Otherwise, acid chloride are easy to prepare by methods known to the person skilled in the art.
For the reaction of the effector molecule (i) to the acid chloride, the chlorinating agents used are the customary chlorinating agents known to the person skilled in the art, for example thionyl chloride, phosphorus trichloride, phosphorus pentachloride, oxalyl chloride, phosgene, or phosphorus oxychloride. Very particular preference is given to the use of thionyl chloride (SOCl2).
Suitable solvents here are: aromatic and aliphatic hydrocarbons, e.g. benzene, toluene, xylenes, hexane, heptane, etc., halogenated hydrocarbons, e.g. methylene chloride, ethers, e.g. diethyl ether, THF etc., and an excess of the chlorinating agent itself. In a preferred embodiment, toluene is used.
The chlorination can be carried out with or without a catalyst. DMF is particularly preferred as catalyst for the chlorination.
In a further preferred embodiment, the coupling of the linker molecule (iii) with the effector molecule (i) described under (b) is carried out directly after the above-described activation of the linker molecule (iii) or effector molecule (i) in the presence of a base. Preferred bases are: aromatic and tertiary alkylamines, e.g. pyridine, triethylamine, tributylamine, trioctylamine, ethyldiisopropylamine etc. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the base used is triethylamine.
The invention thus further preferably provides the use of triethylamine as base catalyst in combination with an effector molecule (i) reacted to give an acid chloride or obtainable as acid chloride, were the effector molecule (i) is preferably 2-(4-N,N-dialkylamino-2-hydroxy)benzoylbenzoic acid, and the linker molecule (iii) is preferably maleimidopentanol.
Optionally, the reaction product from step (a) (referred to below as linker effector molecule (iv)) can be further purified to separate possible isomers of the reaction product. Here, the following methods can be used: distillation, rectification, crystallization, extractions and chromatographic purification methods. Column chromatography is preferably carried out.
The binding of the linker effector molecule (iv) arising from the above-described step (a) with the keratin-binding polypeptide (ii) takes place via the second still free anchor group of the linker molecule. For example, such an anchor group can be a thiol function, by means of which the linker can enter into a disulfide bond with a cysteine radical of the keratin-binding polypeptide (ii).
The linker used is governed by the functionality to be coupled. Of suitability are, for example, molecules which couple polypeptides (ii) to be keratin-bonded by means of sulfhydryl-reactive groups (e.g. maleimides, pyridyl disulfides, α-haloacetyls, vinylsulfones, sulfatoalkylsulfones (preferably sulfatoethylsulfones)).
Preference is given to a covalent linkage of the linker molecule (iii) with the keratin-binding polypeptide (ii). This can take place, for example, via the side chains of the keratin-binding polypeptide (ii), in particular via amino functions, hydroxy functions, carboxylate functions or thiol functions. Preference is given to a linkage via the amino functions of one or more lysine radicals, one or more thiol groups of cysteine radicals, one or more hydroxyl groups of serine, threonine or tyrosine radicals, one or more carboxyl groups of aspartic acid or glutamic acid radicals or via the N-terminal or C-terminal function of the keratin-binding polypeptide (ii). Apart from the amino acid functions occurring in the primary sequence of the keratin-binding polypeptide (ii), it is also possible to add amino acids with suitable functions (e.g. cysteines, lysines, aspartates, glutamates) to the sequence, or to substitute amino acids of the polypeptide sequence by such amino acid functions. Methods for the mutagenesis or manipulation of nucleic acid molecules are sufficiently known to the person skilled in the art. A few selected methods are described below.
Particular preference is given to the use of a linker effector molecule (iv) which has been prepared using the maleimidopentanol or maleimidoethanol specified as being preferred for the method according to the invention. In the case of such a linker effector molecule (iv), the cysteine radicals present in the keratin-binding polypeptide are used for the coupling.
The success of the effector coupling can be monitored by means of two different tests:
In one embodiment, the keratin-binding polypeptides (ii) and linker effector molecules (iv) used in step (a) of the method according to the invention are used in equimolar amounts.
In a further embodiment according to the invention, the binding of the effector molecule takes place in such a way that they can be eliminated and released from the keratin-binding polypeptides (II) in the sense of a “slow release” or “controlled release” as a result of the effect of endogenous enzymes (for example esterases, lipases or glucosidases) or as a result of the ambient conditions on the skin (e.g. moisture, acidic pH) over time. The keratin-binding polypeptides (II) can thus be used as application system with which, through single or repeated application, small amounts of the free effector molecules on the skin can be achieved. In principle, it is known to the person skilled in the art that effectors can be released on the skin from their corresponding derivatives, for example from tocopherol acetate, ascorbyl palmitate or ascorbyl glucosides (exemplary literature: Redoulés, D. et al. J. Invest. Dermatol. 125, 2005, 270, Beijersbegen van Henegouwen, G. M. J. et al., J. Photochem. Photobiol. 29, 1995, 45).
In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, for the method according to the invention, effector molecules (i) carrying carboxyl or sulfonic acid groups are used chosen from the group consisting of dyes, photoprotective agents, vitamins, provitamins, carotenoids, antioxidants and peroxide decomposers. Here, the effector molecules used can have one or more carboxyl or sulfonic acid groups.
Among the dyes, preference is given to food dyes, semipermanent dyes, reactive dyes or oxidation dyes. In the case of the oxidation dyes, it is preferred to link one component as effector molecule (i) with the keratin-binding polypeptide sequence (ii) and then to couple oxidatively with the second dye component at the site of action, i.e. after binding to the hair. It is also preferred in the case of oxidation dyes to carry out the coupling of the dye components prior to the coupling with the keratin-binding polypeptide sequence (ii).
Suitable dyes are in principle all customary hair dyes provided these have a carboxyl or sulfonic acid group capable of coupling. Suitable dyes are known to the person skilled in the art from cosmetics handbooks, for example Schrader, Grundlagen und Rezepturen der Kosmetika [Fundaments and formulations of cosmetics], Hüthig Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989, ISBN 3-7785-1491-1.
Preferred food dyes are betalains, such as, for example, betacyan, betaxanthin, carmine, carminic acid, kermesic acid, cochineal red A and indicaxanthin.
Particularly advantageous dyes are those specified in the list below. The Colour Index numbers (CIN) are taken from the Rowe Colour Index, 3rd edition, Society of Dyers and Colourists, Bradford, England, 1971.
The abovementioned dyes can also be used as effector molecules (i) to skin- or nail-binding polypeptide sequence (i) for the coloring of skin or nails e.g. in tattoos.
Of particular suitability is the use of keratin-binding effector molecules comprising fluorescent dyes (e.g. the fluorescent dyes included in Table 2) to achieve a more healthy and luminous skin shade and for optically lightening the skin (“skin whitening”) following application to the skin. The use of fluorescent pigments is described, for example, in U.S. Pat. No. 6,753,002. Fluorescent dyes for producing a healthier skin shade are described in “Filling the Fluorescent Palette, Cosmetics & Toiletries, 26-34, 121, No. 5, 2006”. Preference is given, for example, to fluorescent dyes from DayGio.
In addition, these keratin-binding effector molecules comprising fluorescent dyes can also be used for lightening hair and for producing special reflections or shimmers on the hair. This is described, for example in “Hair lightening by fluorescent dyes, Cosmetics & Toiletries, 56-57, 120, No. 7, 2005” and the specification US 2004/0258641 cited therein.
Further preferred effector molecules (i) are carotenoids. According to the invention, carotenoids are understood as meaning the following compounds and esterified or glycosylated derivates thereof: bixin, crocetin, β-Apo-8-carotenoic acid esters individually or as a mixture.
Further preferred effector molecules (i) are vitamins, in particular vitamin A and esters thereof.
For the purposes of the present invention, retinoids means vitamin A acid (retinoic acid) and vitamin A esters (e.g. retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate and retinyl palmitate). The term retinoic acid here includes both all-trans retinoic acid and also 13-cis-retinoic acid. A preferred retinoic acid used for the suspensions according to the invention is all-trans retinoic acid.
Further preferred effector molecules (i) are vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, C and F, in particular ascorbic acid (vitamin C), and the palmitic esters, glucosides or phosphates of ascorbic acid, also vitamin F, which is understood to include essential fatty acids, particularly linoleic acid, conjugated linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid, and folic acid.
Vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors of the vitamin B group or derivatives thereof, and the derivatives of 2-furanone to be used with preference according to the invention include, inter alia:
Vitamin B3. This term often includes the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide). According to the invention, preference is given to nicotinic acid.
Vitamin B5 pantothenic acid. Preference is given to using pantothenic acid. Derivatives of pantothenoic acid which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters of pantothenic acid with all stereoisomers being expressly included.
These compounds advantageously impart moisturizing and skin-calming properties to the keratin-binding effector molecules according to the invention.
Vitamin B7 (biotin), also referred to as vitamin H or “skin vitamin”. Biotin is (3aS,4S,6aR)-2-oxo-hexahydrothienol[3,4-d]imidazole-4-valeric acid.
Pantothenic acid, pantolactone, nicotinic acid and biotin are very particularly preferred according to the invention.
According to the invention, suitable derivatives (salts, esters, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of said compounds can be used as effector molecules. Preferred lipophilic, oil-soluble antioxidants from this group are gallic esters and carotenoids. Preferred water-soluble antioxidants are amino acids, e.g. tyrosine and cysteine and derivatives thereof, and also tannins, in particular those of vegetable origin.
Further preference is given to so-called peroxide decomposers, i.e. compounds which are able to decompose peroxides, particularly preferably lipid peroxides. These are understood as including organic substances, such as, for example, pyridine-2-thiol-3-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrimidinolcarboxylic acids, 2-methoxypyridinecarboxylic acids, 2-dimethylaminopyrimidinolcarboxylic acids, 2-dimethylaminopyridinecarboxylic acids.
Triterpenes, in particular triterpenoic acids, such as ursolic acid, rosmarinic acid, betulinic acid, boswellic acid and bryonolic acid.
A further preferred effector molecule (i) is lipoic acid and suitable derivatives (salts, esters, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids).
Further preferred effector molecules are silicones, for example hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, 1,1,3,3,-tetraisopropyldisiloxane, octaphenyltrisiloxane, 1,3,5-trivinyl-1,1,3,5,5-pentamethyltrisiloxane etc. In a preferred embodiment chlorosiloxanes are reacted with compounds of the formula 1, 1b or 1c to give the corresponding siloxyl ethers. Chlorosiloxanes which can be used are, for example: chloropentaphenyldisiloxane, 1,3-dichlorotetraphenyldisiloxane, 1,3-dichlorotetramethyldisiloxane, 1,5-dichlorohexamethyltrisiloxane, etc.
In a further preferred embodiment, halomethylsiloxanes are reacted with compounds of the formula 1, 1b or 1c to give the corresponding methylsiloxyl ethers, e.g. chloromethylpentadisiloxane, chloromethylheptamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, 3-chloromethylheptamethyltrisiloxane, 1,3-bis(bromomethyl)tetramethyldisiloxane, 3,5-bis(chloromethyl)octamethyltetrasiloxane etc.
In a further preferred embodiment, silicones are used that have carboxyl groups or their functional equivalents and can be used to react with compounds of the formula 1, 1b or 1c to form esters or amides. Examples of such silicones are; 1,3-bis(carbomethoxyl)tetramethyldisiloxane, propionic acid pentamethyldisiloxane, etc.
Further preferred effector molecules (i) are UV photoprotective filters. These are understood as meaning organic substances which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and release the absorbed energy again in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. heat. The organic substances may be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
Oil-soluble UV-B filters which may be used are, for example, the following substances:
4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate, 2-octyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate and amyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate;
esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene);
esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomethyl salicylate;
esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate;
triazine derivatives, such as, for example, 2,4,6-trianilino(p-carbo-2′-ethyl-1′-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazine (octyltriazone) and dioctylbutamidotriazone (Uvasorb® HEB):
Suitable water-soluble substances are:
2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts thereof;
sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidenecamphor, such as, for example, 4-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl)benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidene)sulfonic acid and salts thereof.
Particular preference is given to the use of esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene).
Suitable typical UV-A filters are:
derivatives of benzoylmethane, such as, for example, 1-(4′-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4′-hydroxy-phenyl)propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl-4′-hydroxydibenzoylmethane or 1-phenyl-3-(4′-isopropyl phenyl)propane-1,3-dione;
aminohydroxy-substituted derivatives of benzophenones, such as, for example, N,N-diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl n-hexylbenzoate.
The UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures.
Suitable UV filter substances are given in the table below.
Besides the two abovementioned groups of primary photoprotective substances, it is also possible to use secondary photoprotective agents of the antioxidant type which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates into the skin. Typical examples thereof is ascorbic acid (vitamin C).
In the method according to the invention, preference is given to those keratin-binding polypeptides (ii) which
In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the keratin-binding polypeptide (ii) used is encoded by a nucleic acid molecule comprising at least one nucleic acid molecule chosen from the group consisting of:
Keratin-binding polypeptide domains suitable according to the invention are present in the polypeptide sequences of desmoplakins, plakophilins, plakoglobins, plectins, periplakins, envoplakins, trichohyalins, epiplakins or hair follicle proteins.
In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, desmoplakins according to the sequences SEQ ID No.: 2, 42, 44, 46, 48, 146, 150, 153, 156, 157, 158, 160, 162, 164 or 166, and/or plakophilins according to the sequences SEQ ID No.: 18, 20, 26, 28, 32, 34, 36, 168, 170 and/or plakoglobins according to the sequences with the SEQ ID No.: 50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66, 68, 70, and/or the periplakin according to the sequence with the SEQ ID No.: 86, and/or envoplakins according to the sequences with the SEQ ID No.: 90, 92, 94, 96, 98, 102, 104, 105 and/or the sequences according to SEQ ID No.: 138 and 140 are used as keratin-binding polypeptides. Preferred keratin-binding domains are the desmoplakin polypeptides shown in the sequences SEQ ID NOs: 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 146, 150, 153, 156, 157, 158, 160, 162, 164, 166, 168 or 170, and functional equivalents thereof. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the keratin-binding polypeptides shown in the sequences SEQ ID No.: 156, 157, 158, 160, 162, 164, 166, 168 and/or 170 are used in the method according to the invention. In an embodiment of the present invention which is preferred most of all, the keratin-binding protein shown in the sequence SEQ ID No.: 168 is used. It goes without saying here that this protein can be used either with or without the histidine anchors present in the SEQ ID No.: 168. Thus, the histidine anchor (or a purification/detection system to be used analogously) can also be present C-terminally. In practical use of said keratin-binding proteins (e.g. in cosmetic preparations), a histidine anchor (or a purification/detection system to be used analogously) is not necessary. The use of said proteins without additional amino acid sequences is thus preferred.
Likewise included according to the invention are “functional equivalents” of the specifically disclosed keratin-binding polypeptides (ii) and the use of these in the method according to the invention.
For the purposes of the present invention, “functional equivalents” or analogs of the specifically disclosed keratin-binding polypeptides (ii) are polypeptides different therefrom which also have the desired biological activity, such as, for example, keratin binding. Thus, for example, “functional equivalents” of keratin-binding polypeptides are understood as meaning those polypeptides which, under otherwise comparable conditions, in the quantitative keratin-binding tests described in the examples, have about 10%, 20%, 30%, 40% or 50%, preferably 60%, 70%, 80% or 90%, particularly preferably 100%, 125%, 150%, very particularly preferably 200%, 300% or 400%, most preferably 500%, 600%, 700% or 1000% or more of the keratin-binding capacity of the polypeptides shown under the SEQ ID No.: 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66, 68, 70, 72, 74, 76, 78, 80, 82, 84, 86, 88, 90, 92, 94, 96, 98, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 110, 112, 114, 116, 118, 120, 122, 124, 126, 128, 130, 132, 134, 136 138, 140, 146, 150, 153, 156, 157, 158, 160, 162, 164, 166, 168 or 170.
According to the invention, “functional equivalents” are understood in particular as meaning also muteins which have an amino acid other than that specifically given in at least one sequence position of the abovementioned amino acid sequences but nevertheless have one of the abovementioned biological activities. “Functional equivalents” thus include the muteins obtainable by a mutation where the specified changes can arise in any sequence position provided they lead to a mutein with the profile of properties according to the invention.
For the purposes of the present invention “mutation” means the change in the nucleic acid sequence of a gene variant in a plasmid or in the genome of an organism. Mutations can arise, for example, as a result of errors during replication, or be caused by mutagens. The rate of spontaneous mutations in the cell genome of organisms is very low although a large number of biological, chemical or physical mutagens is known to the knowledgeable person skilled in the art.
Mutations comprise substitutions, insertions, deletions of one or more nucleic acid radicals. Substitutions are understood as meaning the replacement of individual nucleic acid bases, a distinction being made here between transitions (substitution of a purine base for a purine base or a pyrimidine base for a pyrimidine base) and transversions (substitution of a purine base for a pyrimidine base (or vice versa)).
Additions or insertions are understood as meaning the incorporation of additional nucleic acid radicals into the DNA, possibly resulting in shifts in the reading frame. With reading frame shifts of this type, a distinction is made between “in frame” insertions/additions and “out of frame” insertions. In the case of “in frame” insertions/additions, the reading frame is retained and a polypeptide enlarged by the number of amino acids encoded by the inserted nucleic acids arises. In the case of “out of frame” insertions/additions, the original reading frame is lost and the formation of a complete and functioning polypeptide is no longer possible.
Deletions describe the loss of one or more base pairs, which likewise lead to “in frame” or “out of frame” shifts in the reading frame and the consequences associated therewith regard to the formation of an intact protein.
The mutagenic agents (mutagens) which can be used for producing random or targeted mutations and the applicable methods and techniques are known to the person skilled in the art. Such methods and mutagens are described, for example, in A.M. van Harten [(1998), “Mutation breeding theory and practical applications”, Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, UK], E Friedberg, G Walker, W Siede [(1995), “DNA Repair and Mutagenesis”, Blackwell Publishing], or K. Sankaranarayanan, J. M. Gentile, L. R. Ferguson [(2000) “Protocols in Mutagenesis”, Elsevier Health Sciences].
For introducing targeted mutations, customary molecular biological methods and processes such as, for example, the in vitro Mutagenesis Kits, LA PCR in vitro Mutagenesis Kit (Takara Shuzo, Kyoto), QuikChange® Kit from Stratagene or PCR mutageneses using suitable primers can be used.
As already discussed above, there is a large number of chemical, physical and biological mutagens.
The mutagens listed below are given by way of example, but are non-limiting.
Chemical mutagens can be subdivided according to their mechanism of action. Thus, there are base analogs (e.g. 5-bromouracil, 2-aminopurine), mono- and bifunctional alkylating agents (e.g. monofunctional ones such as ethylmethylsulfonate, dimethyl sulfate, or bifunctional ones such as dichloroethyl sulfite, mitomycin, nitrosoguanidines-dialkylnitrosamines, N-nitrosoguanidine derivatives) or intercalating substances (e.g. acridines, ethidium bromide).
Thus, for example, for the method according to the invention, it is also possible to use those polypeptides which are obtained as a result of a mutation of a polypeptide according to the invention e.g. according to SEQ ID No.: 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66, 68, 70, 72, 74, 76, 78, 80, 82, 84, 86, 88, 90, 92, 94, 96, 98, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 110, 112, 114, 116, 118, 120, 122, 124, 126, 128, 130, 132, 134, 136, 138, 140, 146, 150, 153, 156, 157, 158, 160, 162, 164, 166, 168 and/or 170.
Examples of suitable amino acid substitutions are given in the table below:
It is known that in SEQ ID NO: 2, the serine naturally present at position 2849 can, for example, be replaced by glycine in order to avoid a phosphorylation at this position (Fontao L, Favre B, Riou S, Geerts D, Jaunin F, Saurat J H, Green K J, Sonnenberg A, Borradori L., Interaction of the bullous pemphigoid antigen 1 (BP230) and desmoplakin with intermediate filaments is mediated by distinct sequences within their COOH terminus., Mol Biol Cell. 2003 May; 14(5):1978-92. Epub 2003 Jan. 26).
In the above sense, “functional equivalents” are also “precursors” of the described polypeptides, and “functional derivatives” and “salts” of the polypeptides.
Here, “precursors” are natural or synthetic precursors of the polypeptides with or without desired biological activity.
The expression “salts” is understood as meaning either salts of carboxyl groups or acid addition salts of amino groups of the protein molecules according to the invention. Salts of carboxyl groups can be prepared in a manner known per se and include inorganic salts, such as, for example, sodium, calcium, ammonium, iron and zinc salts, and also salts with organic bases, such as, for example, amines such as triethylamine, arginine, lysine, piperidine and the like. Acid addition salts, such as, for example, salts with mineral acids, such as hydrochloric acid or sulfuric acid, and salts with organic acids, such as acetic acid and oxalic acid, are likewise provided by the invention.
“Functional equivalents” naturally also comprise polypeptides which are accessible from other organisms, and naturally occurring variants (alleles). For example, through sequence comparisons, areas of homologous sequence regions or preserved regions can be determined. Using these sequences, DNA databases (e.g. genomic or cDNA databases) can be inspected for equivalent enzymes using bioinformatic comparison programs. Suitable computer programs and databases which are accessible to the public are sufficiently known to the person skilled in the art.
These alignments of known protein sequences can be carried out, for example, using a computer program such as Vector NTI 8 (version from 25 Sep. 2002) from InforMax Inc.
Furthermore, “functional equivalents” are fusion proteins which have one of the abovementioned polypeptide sequences or functional equivalents derived therefrom and have at least one further heterologous sequence functionally different therefrom in functional N- or C-terminal linkage (i.e. without mutual essential functional impairment of the fusion protein parts). Nonlimiting examples of such heterologous sequences are, for example, signal peptides or enzymes.
“Functional equivalents” included according to the invention are homologs to the specifically disclosed proteins. These have at least 40%, 45% or 50%, preferably at least 55%, 60%, 65% or 70%, particularly preferably at least 75%, 80%, 85%, 90%, 91%, 92%, 93% or 94%, very particularly preferably at least 95% or 96% homology to one of the specifically disclosed amino acid sequences, calculated using the computer programs and computer algorithms disclosed in the definitions.
In the case of a possible protein glycosylation, “functional equivalents” according to the invention include proteins of the type referred to above in deglycosylated or glycosylated form, and also modified forms obtainable by changing the glycosylation pattern.
In the case of a possible protein phosphorylation, “functional equivalents” according to the invention include proteins of the type referred to above in dephosphorylated or phosphorylated form, and also modified forms obtainable by changing the phosphorylation pattern.
Homologs of the polypeptides according to the invention can be identified by screening combinatorial banks of mutants, such as, for example, shortening mutants. For example, a bank of protein variants can be produced by combinatorial mutagenesis at nucleic acid level, such as, for example, by enzymatic ligation of a mixture of synthetic oligonucleotides. There is a large number of methods which can be used for producing banks of potential homologs from a degenerated oligonucleotide sequence. The chemical synthesis of a degenerated gene sequence can be carried out in an automatic DNA synthesis machine, and the synthetic gene can then be ligated into a suitable expression vector. The use of a degenerated set of genes makes it possible to provide all of the sequences in one mixture which encode the desired set of potential protein sequences. Methods for synthesizing degenerated oligonucleotides are known to the person skilled in the art (e.g. Narang, S. A. (1983) Tetrahedron 39:3; Itakura et al. (1984) Annu. Rev. Biochem. 53:323; Itakura et al., (1984) Science 198.1056; Ike et al. (1983) Nucleic Acids Res. 11:477).
In the prior art, a number of techniques for the screening of gene products of combinatorial banks which have been produced by point mutations or shortening, and for the screening of cDNA banks for gene products with a selected property are known. The most often used techniques for screening large gene banks which are subjected to analysis with a high throughput include the cloning of the gene bank in replicable expression vectors, transforming the suitable cells with the resulting vector bank and expressing the combinatorial genes under conditions under which the detection of the desired activity facilitates the isolation of the vector which encodes the gene whose product has been detected. Recursive ensemble mutagenesis (REM), a technique which increases the frequency of functional mutants in the banks can be used in combination with the screening tests in order to identify homologs (Arkin and Yourvan (1992) PNAS 89:7811-7815; Delgrave et al. (1993) Protein Engineering 6(3):327-331).
The inspection of physically available cDNA or genomic DNA libraries of other organisms using the nucleic acid sequence described under SEQ ID No.: 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39, 41, 43, 45, 47, 49, 51, 53, 55, 57, 59, 61, 63, 65, 67, 69, 71, 73, 75, 77, 79, 81, 83, 85, 87, 89, 91, 93, 95, 97, 99, 101, 103, 105, 107, 109, 111, 113, 115, 117, 119, 121, 123, 125, 127, 129, 131, 133, 135, 137, 139, 145, 149, 152, 159, 161, 163, 165, 167 and/or 169, or parts thereof as probe is a method known to the person skilled in the art for identifying homologs in other ways. Here, the probes derived from the nucleic acid sequence according to SEQ ID No.: 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39, 41, 43, 45, 47, 49, 51, 53, 55, 57, 59, 61, 63, 65, 67, 69, 71, 73, 75, 77, 79, 81, 83, 85, 87, 89, 91, 93, 95, 97, 99, 101, 103, 105, 107, 109, 111, 113, 115, 117, 119, 121, 123, 125, 127, 129, 131, 133, 135, 137, 139, 145, 149, 152, 159, 161, 163, 165, 167 and/or 169 have a length of at least 20 bp, preferably at least 50 bp, particularly preferably at least 100 bp, very particularly preferably at least 200 bp, most preferably at least 400 bp. The probe can also be one or more kilobases long, e.g. 1 Kb, 1.5 Kb or 3 Kb. For inspecting the libraries it may also be possible to use a sequence of complementary DNA strand described under SEQ ID No.: 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39, 41, 43, 45, 47, 49, 51, 53, 55, 57, 59, 61, 63, 65, 67, 69, 71, 73, 75, 77, 79, 81, 83, 85, 87, 89, 91, 93, 95, 97, 99, 101, 103, 105, 107, 109, 111, 113, 115, 117, 119, 121, 123, 125, 127, 129, 131, 133, 135, 137, 139, 145, 149, 152, 159, 161, 163, 165, 167 and/or 169, particularly preferably 165 and 167, most preferably 167, or a fragment thereof with a length between 20 bp and several kilobases. The hybridization conditions to be used are described above.
In the method according to the invention, it is also possible to use those DNA molecules which, under standard conditions, hybridize with the nucleic acid molecules described by SEQ ID No.: 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39, 41, 43, 45, 47, 49, 51, 53, 55, 57, 59, 61, 63, 65, 67, 69, 71, 73, 75, 77, 79, 81, 83, 85, 87, 89, 91, 93, 95, 97, 99, 101, 103, 105, 107, 109, 111, 113, 115, 117, 119, 121, 123, 125, 127, 129, 131, 133, 135, 137, 139, 145, 149, 152, 159, 161, 163, 165, 167 and/or 169, particularly preferably 165 and 167, most preferably 167, and encoding keratin-binding polypeptides, nucleic acid molecules complementary to these or parts of the abovementioned, and as complete sequences encode polypeptides which have the same properties as the polypeptides described under SEQ ID No.: 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66, 68, 70, 72, 74, 76, 78, 80, 82, 84, 86, 88, 90, 92, 94, 96, 98, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 110, 112, 114, 116, 118, 120, 122, 124, 126, 128, 130, 132, 134, 136, 138, 140, 146, 150, 153, 156, 157, 158, 160, 162, 164, 166, 168 or 170.
A particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention are keratin-binding polypeptides (ii) which comprise at least one of the polypeptide sequences as shown in SEQ ID No.: 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66, 68, 70, 72, 74, 76, 78, 80, 82, 84, 86, 88, 90, 92, 94, 96, 98, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 110, 112, 114, 116 118, 120, 122, 124, 126, 128, 130, 132, 134, 136, 138, 140, 146, 150, 153, 156, 157, 158, 160, 162, 164, 166, 168 or 170, with the proviso that the keratin binding of said polypeptides is at least 10%, 20%, 30%, 40% or 50%, preferably 60%, 70%, 80% or 90%, particularly preferably 100%, of the value which the corresponding polypeptide sequences as shown in SEQ ID No.: 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66, 68, 70, 72, 74, 76, 78, 80, 82, 84, 86, 88, 90, 92, 94, 96, 98, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 110, 112, 114, 116, 118, 120, 122, 124, 126, 128, 130, 132, 134, 136, 138, 140, 146, 150, 153, 156, 157, 158, 160, 162, 164, 166, 168 or 170 have, measured in the test according to Example 9 or 10.
Preference is given to using keratin-binding polypeptides (ii) which have a highly specific affinity for the desired organism. Accordingly, for uses in skin cosmetics, preference is given to using keratin-binding polypeptides (ii) which have a particularly high affinity to human skin keratin. For uses in hair cosmetics, preference is given to those polypeptide sequences which have a particularly high affinity to human hair keratin.
For applications in the pet field, besides the described polypeptide sequences (SEQ ID No.: 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66, 68, 70, 72, 74, 76, 78, 80, 82, 84, 86, 88, 90, 92, 94, 96, 98, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 110, 112, 114, 116, 118, 120, 122, 124, 126, 128, 130, 132, 134, 136, 138, 140, 146, 150, 153, 156, 157, 158, 160, 162, 164, 166, 168 or 170, preferably in SEQ ID NO: 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 146, 150, 153, 156, 157, 158, 160, 162, 164, 166, 168 or 170, particularly preferably 166 and 168, most preferably 168), those keratin-binding polypeptides (ii) are accordingly preferred which have a particularly high affinity to the corresponding keratin, for example canine keratin or feline keratin.
However, it is also possible to use more than one keratin-binding polypeptide (ii) coupled to the effector molecule (i) according to the invention, for example a keratin-binding polypeptide (ii) which has a high binding affinity to human skin keratin can be combined with an effector molecule in combination with another keratin-binding polypeptide (ii) which has a high affinity to human hair keratin. It is also possible to use chimeric polypeptides which comprise two or more copies of the same (and also different) keratin-binding polypeptides (ii) or keratin-binding domains thereof. For example, it was thus possible to achieve particularly effective keratin binding.
Suitable keratin-binding polypeptides (ii) are known. For example, desmoplakins and plectins comprise keratin-binding domains (Fontao L, Favre B, Riou S, Geerts D, Jaunin F, Saurat J H, Green K J, Sonnenberg A, Borradori L., interaction of the bullous pemphigoid antigen 1 (BP230) and desmoplakin with intermediate filaments is mediated by distinct sequences within their COOH terminus., Mol Biol Cell. 2003 May; 14(5):1978-92. Epub 2003 Jan. 26; Hopkinson S B, Jones J C., The N-terminus of the transmembrane protein BP180 interacts with the N-terminal domain of BP230, thereby mediating keratin cytoskeleton anchorage to the cell surface at the site of the hemidesmosome, Mol Biol Cell. 2000 January; 11(1):277-86).
The keratin-binding polypeptides (i) according to the invention can also—if desired—be separated again easily from the keratin. For this, for example, a rinse containing keratin can be used, as a result of which the keratin-binding polypeptides (i) are displaced from their existing binding to the keratin and are saturated with the keratin from the rinse. Alternatively, a rinse with a high content of detergent (e.g. SDS) is also possible for the washing off.
The keratin-binding polypeptides (i) according to the invention have a further field of application in human cosmetics, in particular skincare, nailcare and haircare, animal care, leather care and leather working.
Preferably, the keratin-binding polypeptides (ii) according to the invention are used for skin cosmetics and hair cosmetics. They permit a high concentration and long action time of caring or protecting effector molecules. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, keratin-binding polypeptides are used which have a binding affinity to human skin, hair or nail keratin.
In a specifically preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a method in which
The present invention further provides keratin-binding effector molecules in which the effector molecule (i) is coupled indirectly to the keratin-binding polypeptide via a linker molecule (iii). Preference is given to keratin-binding effector molecules which comprise at least one keratin-binding polypeptide (ii) according to the sequences shown in SEQ ID No.: 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66, 68, 70, 72, 74, 76, 78, 80, 82, 84, 86, 88, 90, 92, 94, 96, 98, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 110, 112, 114, 116, 118, 120, 122, 124, 126, 128, 130, 132, 134, 136, 138, 140, 146, 150, 153, 156, 157 or 158, preferably in SEQ ID NO: 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 146, 150, 153, 156, 157, 158, 160, 162, 164, 166, 168 or 170, and during whose production, the linker molecule (iii) used was maleimidopentanol. Very particular preference is given to the abovementioned keratin-binding effector molecules in which the linker molecule (iii) used was maleimidopentanol and the effector molecule (i) used was the 2-(4-N,N-dialkylamino-2-hydroxy)benzoylbenzoic acid derivatives (as described above).
The present invention further provides the use of the keratin-binding effector molecules produced according to the invention in dermocosmetic preparations. Preferably, the keratin-binding effector molecules according to the invention are used in skin and hair cosmetics. They permit a high concentration and long action time of skincare or skin-protection effector substances. In addition, the use of the keratin-binding effector molecules in gum and oral care is preferred.
In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, a keratin-binding effector molecule according to the invention and/or produced according to the inventive method is added to the dermocosmetics or compositions for oral, dental and denture care in a concentration of from 0.001 to 1 percent by weight (% by wt.), preferably 0.01 to 0.9% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01 to 0.8% by weight or 0.01 to 0.7% by weight, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 0.6% by weight or 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, most preferably 0.01 to 0.4% by weight or 0.01 to 0.3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In a further embodiment, the compositions comprise a keratin-binding effector molecule according to the invention and/or produced according to the inventive method in a concentration of from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably 2 to 8% by weight, 3 to 7% by weight, 4 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In a likewise preferred embodiment, the compositions comprise a keratin-binding effector molecule according to the invention and/or produced according to the inventive method in a concentration of from 10 to 20% by weight, preferably 11 to 19% by weight, 12 to 18% by weight, 13 to 17% by weight, 14 to 16% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In a moreover preferred embodiment, the compositions comprise a keratin-binding effector molecule according to the invention and/or produced according to the inventive method in a concentration of from 20 to 30% by weight, preferably 21 to 29% by weight, 22 to 28% by weight 23 to 27% by weight, 24 to 26% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
In another preferred embodiment, the abovementioned keratin-binding effector molecules according to the invention are used in dermocosmetics and/or compositions for oral, dental and denture care in combination with (i) cosmetic auxiliaries from the field of decorative cosmetics, (ii) dermocosmetic active ingredients and (iii) suitable auxiliaries and additives. Preferably, these are active ingredients and auxiliaries and additives which are used to protect the skin, hair and/or fingernails or toenails from damage, for treating existing damage to skin, hair and/or fingernails or toenails and for caring for skin, hair and/or fingernails or toenails. These active ingredients are preferably chosen from the group of natural or synthetic polymers, pigments, humectants, oils, waxes, enzymes, minerals, vitamins, sunscreens, dyes, fragrances, antioxidants, preservatives and/or pharmaceutical active ingredients.
Suitable auxiliaries and additives for producing hair cosmetic or skin cosmetic preparations are familiar to the person skilled in the art and can be found in cosmetics handbooks, for example Schrader, Grundlagen und Rezepturen der Kosmetika [Fundamentals and formulations of cosmetics], Hüthig Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989, ISBN 3-7785-1491-1, or Umbach, Kosmetik: Entwicklung, Herstellung und Anwendung kosmetischer Mittel [Cosmetics: development, manufacture and use of cosmetic compositions], 2nd expanded edition, 1995, Georg Thieme Verlag, ISBN 3 13 712602 9.
Preferably, the keratin-binding effector molecules according to the invention are used in dermocosmetics or compositions for oral care, dental care and denture care in combination with at least one constituent different therefrom which is chosen from cosmetically active ingredients, emulsifiers, surfactants, preservatives perfume oils, thickeners, hair polymers, hair and skin conditioners, graft polymers, water-soluble or dispersible silicone-containing polymers, photoprotective agents, bleaches, gel formers, care agents, colorants, tinting agents, tanning agents, dyes, pigments, consistency regulators, humectants, refatting agents, collagen, protein hydrolyzates, lipids, antioxidants, antifoams, antistats, emollients and softeners. The active ingredients can also be present in the cosmetic preparations in encapsulated form, as described in the patents/patent applications EP 00974775 B1, DE 2311 712, EP 0278 878, DE 1999 47147, EP 0706822B1 and WO 98/16621, to which reference is hereby expressly made.
Advantageously, the antioxidants are chosen from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and derivatives thereof, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides such as D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and derivatives thereof (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. β-carotene, lycopene) and derivatives thereof, chlorogenic acid and derivatives thereof, lipoic acid and derivatives thereof (e.g. dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thiorodoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and the glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters thereof) and salts thereof dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts), and sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximines, buthionine sulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathionine sulfoximine) in very low tolerated doses (e.g. pmol to pmol/kg), also (metal) chelating agents (e.g. (α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA and derivatives thereof, unsaturated fatty acids and derivatives thereof (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and derivatives thereof, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and derivatives thereof, vitamin C and derivatives thereof (e.g. sodium ascorbate, ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherol and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate, tocotrienol), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate), and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin resin, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, α-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylideneglucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiacic acid, nordihydroguairetic acid, trihydroxybutylrophenone, uric acid and derivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof zinc and derivatives thereof (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO4), selenium and derivatives thereof (e.g. selenomethionine), stilbenes and derivatives thereof (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide).
The vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors of the vitamin B group or derivatives, thereof and the derivatives of 2-furanone to be used with preference according to the invention include, inter alia:
Vitamin B1, trivial name thiamine, chemical name 3-[(4′-amino-2′-methyl-5′-pyrimidinyl)methyl]-5-(2-hydroxyethyl)-4-methylthiazolium chloride.
Vitamin B2, trivial name riboflavin, chemical name 7,8-dimethyl-10-(1-D-ribityl)-benzo)[g]pteridine-2,4(3H,10H)-dione. In free form, riboflavin occurs, for example, in whey, other riboflavin derivatives can be isolated from bacteria and yeasts. A stereoisomer of riboflavin which is likewise suitable according to the invention is lyxoflavin, which can be isolated from fish meal or liver and bears a D-arabityl radical instead of the D-ribityl radical.
Vitamin B3. The compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) often bear this name. According to the invention, preference is given to nicotinamide.
Vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Preference is given to using panthenol. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol, and cationically derivatized panthenols. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, derivatives of 2-furanone can also be used in addition to pantothenic acid or panthenol. Particularly preferred derivatives are the also commercially available substances dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2(3H)-furanone with the trivial name pantolactone (Merck), 4-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone (Merck), 3,3-dimethyl-2-hydroxy-γ-butyrolactone (Aldrich) and 2,5-dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanone (Merck), with all stereoisomers being expressly included.
These compounds advantageously impart moisturizing and skin-calming properties to the dermocosmetics according to the invention.
Vitamin B6, which is not understood here as meaning a uniform substance, but the derivatives of 5-hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ol known under the trivial names pyridoxin, pyridoxamine and pyridoxal.
Vitamin B7 (biotin), also referred to as vitamin H or “skin vitamin”. Biotin is (3aS,4S,6aR)-2-oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]imidazole-4-valeric acid.
Panthenol, pantolactone, nicotinamide and biotin are very particularly preferred according to the invention.
Dyes which can be used are the substances approved and suitable for cosmetic purposes, as are listed, for example, in the publication “Kosmetische Färbemittel” [Cosmetic Colorants] from the Farbstoffkommission der Deutschen Forschungsgemeinschaft [Dyes Commission of the German Research Society], published by Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of from 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the total mixture.
In one preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one pigment. The pigments are present in the product mass in undissolved form and may be present in an amount of from 0.01 to 25% by weight, particularly preferably from 5 to 15% by weight. The preferred particle size is 1 to 200 □m, in particular 3 to 150 □m, particularly preferably 10 to 100 □m. The pigments are colorants which are virtually insoluble in the application medium and may be inorganic or organic. Inorganic-organic mixed pigments are also possible. Preference is given to inorganic pigments. The advantage of the inorganic pigments is their excellent photostability, weather stability and thermal stability. The inorganic pigments may be of natural origin, for example prepared from chalk, ochre, umber, green earth, burnt sienna or graphite. The pigments may be white pigments, such as, for example, titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, black pigments, such as, for example, iron oxide black, colored pigments, such as, for example, ultramarine or iron oxide red, pearlescent pigments, metal effect pigments, pearlescent pigments and fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments, where preferably at least one pigment is a colored, non-white pigment. Metal oxides, hydroxides and oxide hydrates, mixed-phase pigments, sulfur-containing silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, chromates and molybdates, and the metals themselves (bronze pigments) are suitable. Of particular suitability are titanium dioxide (CI 77891), black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and brown iron oxide (CI 77491), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarine (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI 77289), iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide, CI 77510), carmine (cochineal). Particular preference is given to pearlescent pigments and colored pigments based on mica which are coated with a metal oxide or a metal oxychloride, such as titanium dioxide or bismuth oxychloride, and if appropriate further color-imparting substances, such as iron oxides, iron blue, ultramarine, carmine etc., and where the color can be determined by varying the layer thickness. Pigments of this type are sold, for example, under the trade names Rona®, Colorona®, Dichrona® and Timiron® (Merck). Organic pigments are, for example, the natural pigments sepia, gamboge, Cassel brown, indigo, chlorophyll and other plant pigments. Synthetic organic pigments are, for example, azo pigments, anthraquinoids, indigoids, dioxazine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, isoindolinone, perylene and perinone, metal complex, alkali blue and diketopyrrolopyrrole pigments.
In one embodiment, the keratin-binding effector molecules according to the invention and/or produced according to the inventive method are used with at least one particulate substance which is present in the composition in an amount of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight. Suitable substances are, for example, substances which are solid at room temperature (25° C.) and are in the form of particles. For example, silica, silicates, aluminates, clay earths, mica, salts, in particular inorganic metal salts, metal oxides, e.g. titanium dioxide, minerals and polymer particles are suitable. The particles are present in the composition in undissolved, preferably stably dispersed form and are able, following application to the application surface and evaporation of the solvent, to be deposited in solid form. Preferred particulate substances are silica (silica gel, silicon dioxide) and metal salts, in particular inorganic metal salts, where silica is particularly preferred. Metal salts are, for example, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal halides, such as sodium chloride or potassium chloride; alkali metal or alkaline earth metal sulfates, such as sodium sulfate or magnesium sulfate.
Suitable pearlizing agents are, for example: alkylene glycol esters, specifically ethylene glycol disterate; fatty acid alkanolamides, specifically coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; partial glycerides, specifically stearic acid monoglyceride; esters of polybasic, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, specifically long-chain esters of tartaric acid; fatty substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have in total at least 24 carbon atoms, specifically laurone and distearyl ether; fatty acids, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring-opening products of olefin epoxides having 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and/or polyols having 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups, and mixtures thereof.
Customary thickeners in such formulations are crosslinked polyacrylic acids and derivatives thereof, polysaccharides and derivatives thereof, such as xanthan gum, agar agar, alginates or tyloses, cellulose derivatives, e.g. carboxymethylcellulose or hydroxycarboxymethylcellulose, fatty alcohols, monoglycerides and fatty acids, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone. Preference is given to using nonionic thickeners.
Suitable cosmetically and/or dermocosmetically active ingredients are, for example, coloring active ingredients, skin and hair pigmentation agents, tinting agents, tanning agents, bleaches, keratin-hardening substances, antimicrobial active ingredients, photofilter active ingredients, repellent active ingredients, hyperemic substances, keratolytically and keratoplastically effective substances, antidandruff active ingredients, antiphlogistics, keratinizing substances, antioxidative active ingredients and/or active ingredients which act as free-radical scavengers, skin moisturizing or humectant substances, refatting active ingredients, antierythematous or antiallergic active ingredients, branched fatty acids, such as 18-methyleicosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof.
Artificially skin-tanning active ingredients which are suitable for tanning the skin without natural or artificial radiation with UV rays are, for example, dihydroxyacetone, alloxan and walnut shell extract. Suitable keratin-hardening substances are usually active ingredients, as are also used in antiperspirants, such as, for example, potassium aluminum sulfate, aluminum hydroxychloride, aluminum lactate, etc.
Antimicrobial active ingredients are used to destroy microorganisms or to inhibit their growth and thus serve both as preservative and as deodorizing substance which reduces the formation or the intensity of body odor. These include, for example, customary preservatives known to the person skilled in the art, such as p-hydroxybenzoic esters, imidazolidinylurea, formaldehyde, sorbic acid, benzoic acid, salicylic acid, etc. Such deodorizing substances are, for example, zinc ricinoleate, triclosan, undecylenic acid alkylolamides, triethyl citrate, chlorhexidine etc.
Suitable preservatives to be used advantageously according to the invention are:
Also suitable according to the invention are preservatives or preservative auxiliaries customary in cosmetics dibromodicyanobutane (2-bromo-2-bromomethylglutarodinitrile), 3-iodo-2-propynyl butylcarbamate, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, imidazolidinylurea, 5-chloro-2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one, 2-chloroacetamide, benzalkonium chloride and benzyl alcohol. Also suitable as preservatives are phenyl hydroxyalkyl ethers, in particular the compound known under the name phenoxyethanol on account of its bactericidal and fungicidal effects on a number of microorganisms.
Other antimicrobial agents are likewise suitable for being incorporated into the preparations according to the invention. Advantageous substances are, for example, 2,4,4′-trichloro-2′-hydroxydiphenyl ether (irgasan), 1,6-di(4-chlorophenylbiguanido)hexane (chlorhexidine), 3,4,4′-trichlorocarbanilide, quaternary ammonium compounds, oil of cloves, mint oil, thyme oil, triethyl citrate, farnesol (3,7,11-trimethyl-2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol), and the active ingredients or active ingredient combinations described in the patent laid-open specifications DE-37 40 186, DE-39 38 140, DE-42 04 321, DE-42 29 707, DE-43 09 372, DE-44 11 664, DE-19541 967, DE-195 43 695, DE-195 43 696, DE-195 47 160, DE-196 02 108, DE-196 02 110, DE-196 02 111, DE-196 31 003, DE-196 31 004 and DE-196 34 019 and the patent specifications DE-42 29 737, DE-42 37 081, DE-43 24 219, DE-44 29 467, DE-44 23 410 and DE-195 16 705. Sodium hydrogencarbonate is also to be used advantageously. Microbial polypeptides can also likewise be used.
If appropriate, the cosmetic compositions can comprise perfume oils. Perfume oils which may be mentioned are, for example, mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts from flowers (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli, ylang ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (aniseed, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peels (bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), woods (pinewood, sandalwood, guaiac wood, cedarwood, rosewood), herbs and grasses (taragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine, dwarf-pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Also suitable are animal raw materials, such as, for example, civet and castoreum. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester type, ether type, aldehyde type, ketone type, alcohol type and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, 4-tert-butyl cyclohexylacetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethyl methylphenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexylpropionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes include, for example, the alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, the ketones include, for example, the ionones, α-isomethylionene and methyl cedryl ketone, the alcohols include anethol, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpeneol, the hydrocarbons include primarily the terpenes and balsams. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together produce a pleasant scent note. Essential oils of relatively low volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. sage oil, chamomile oil, oil of cloves, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniperberry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Preferably, bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, □-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, Boisambrene®Forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allyl amyl glycolate, cyclovertal, lavandin oil, clary sage oil, □-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix® Coeur, Iso-E-Super®, Fixolide® NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romillate, irotyl and floramate, alone or in mixtures, are used.
Preferably, the compositions according to the invention comprise oils, fats and/or waxes. Constituents of the oil phase and/or fat phase of the compositions according to the invention are advantageously chosen from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of chain length from 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18, carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be chosen from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, such as, for example, olive oil, sunflower oil, soya oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grapeseed oil, thistle oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like. Further polar oil components can be chosen from the group of esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of chain length from 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols of chain length from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, and from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols of chain length from 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be chosen from the group consisting of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyidodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate dicaprylylcarbonate (cetiol CC) and cocoglycerides (myritol 331), butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate and dibutyl adipate, and synthetic, semisynthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, such as, for example, jojoba oil.
In addition, one or more oil components can advantageously be chosen from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and hydrocarbon waxes, silicone oils, dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols. Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are also to be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. If appropriate, it may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase. According to the invention, the oil component is advantageously chosen from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyidodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C12-15-alkyl benzoate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether. According to the invention, mixtures of C12-15-alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C12-15-alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate, and mixtures of C12-15-alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate are advantageous. According to the invention, the oils with a polarity of from 5 to 50 mN/m particularly preferably used are fatty acid triglycerides, in particular soya oil and/or almond oil. Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene are to be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.
In addition, the oil phase can advantageously be chosen from the group of Guerbet alcohols. Guerbet alcohols are named after Marcel Guerbet who described their preparation for the first time. They form in accordance with the reaction equation
by oxidation of an alcohol to give an aldehyde, by aldol condensation of the aldehyde, elimination of water from the aldol and hydrogenation of the allyl aldehyde. Guerbet alcohols are liquid even at low temperatures and cause virtually no skin irritations. They can be used advantageously as fatting, superfatting and also refatting constituents in cosmetic compositions.
The use of Guerbet alcohols in cosmetics is known per se. Such species are then mostly characterized by the structure
Here, R1 and R2 are usually unbranched alkyl radicals.
According to the invention, the Guerbet alcohol or alcohols are advantageously chosen from the group where R1=propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl or octyl and
R2=hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl or tetradecyl.
Guerbet alcohols preferred according to the invention are 2-butyloctanol (commercially available for example as Isofol®12 (Condea)) and 2-hexyldecanol (commercially available for example as Isofol®16 (Condea)). Mixtures of Guerbet alcohols according to the invention are also to be used advantageously according to the invention, such as, for example, mixtures of 2-butyloctanol and 2-hexyldecanol (commercially available for example as Isofol®14 (Condea)).
Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are also to be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred substances.
The oil component can also advantageously have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components apart from the silicone oil or the silicone oils. Low molecular weight silicones or silicone oils are generally defined by the following general formula:
Higher molecular weight silicones or silicone oils are generally defined by the following general formula
where the silicon atoms may be substituted by identical or different alkyl radicals and/or aryl radicals, which are shown here in general terms by the radicals R1 to R4. However, the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4. m here can assume values from 2 to 200 000.
Cyclic silicones to be used advantageously according to the invention are generally defined by the following general formula
where the silicon atoms can be substituted by identical or different alkyl radicals and/or aryl radicals, which are shown here in general terms by the radicals R1 to R4. However, the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4. “n” here can assume values from 3/2 to 20. Fractional values for n take into consideration that uneven numbers of siloxyl groups may be present in the cycle.
Advantageously, phenyltrimethicone is chosen as silicone oil. Other silicone oils, for example dimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, phenyldimethicone, cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane), hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly(methylphenylsiloxane), cetyldimethicone, behenoxydimethicone are also to be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. Also advantageous are mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, and those of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate. However, it is also advantageous to choose silicone oils of similar constitution to the compounds referred to above whose organic side chains are derivatized, for example polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated. These include, for example, polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers, such as, for example, cetyidimethicone copolyol. Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageously used as silicone oil to be used according to the invention. Fat and/or wax components to be used advantageously according to the invention can be chosen from the group of vegetable waxes, animal waxes, mineral waxes and petrochemical waxes. For example, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, espartograss wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugarcane wax, berry wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, jojoba wax, shea butter, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax), uropygial grease, ceresine, ozokerite (earth wax), paraffin waxes and micro waxes are advantageous.
Further advantageous fat and/or wax components are chemically modified waxes and synthetic waxes, such as, for example, Syncrowax® HRC (glyceryl tribehenate), and Syncrowax® AW 1 C(C18-36 fatty acid) and montan ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes, synthetic or modified beeswaxes (e.g. dimethicone copolyol beeswax and/or C30-50-alkyl beeswax), cetyl ricinoleates such as, for example, Tegosoft® CR, polyalkylene waxes, polyethylene glycol waxes, but also chemically modified fats, such as, for example, hydrogenated vegetable oils (for example hydrogenated castor oil and/or hydrogenated coconut fatty glycerides), triglycerides, such as, for example, hydrogenated soy glyceride, trihydroxystearin, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and glycol esters, such as, for example, C20-40-alkyl stearate, C20-40-alkylhydroxystearoyl stearate and/or glycol montanate. Furthermore, certain organosilicon compounds which have similar physical properties to the specified fat and/or wax components, such as, for example, stearoxytrimethylsilane, are also advantageous.
According to the invention, the fat and/or wax components can be used in the compositions either singly or as a mixture. Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are also to be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. Advantageously, the oil phase is chosen from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C12-15-alkyl benzoate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether. Mixtures of octyldodecanol, caprylic/capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl carbonate, cocoglycerides or mixtures of C12-15-alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C12-15-alkyl benzoate and butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, and mixtures of C12-15-alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate are particularly advantageous. Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, cycloparaffin, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene and polydecene are to be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.
The oil component is also advantageously chosen from the group of phospholipids. Phospholipids are phosphoric esters of acylated glycerols. Of greatest importance among the phosphatidylcholines are, for example, the lecithins, which are characterized by the general structure
where R′ and R″ are typically unbranched aliphatic radicals having 15 or 17 carbon atoms and up to 4 cis double bonds.
According to the invention, Merkur Weissoel Pharma 40 from Merkur Vaseline, Shell Ondina® 917, Shell Ondina®927, Shell Oil 4222, Shell Ondina® 933 from Shell & DEA Oil, Pionier® 6301 S, Pionier® 2071 (Hansen & Rosenthal) can be used as paraffin oil advantageous according to the invention. Suitable cosmetically compatible oil and fat components are described in Karl-Heinz Schrader, Grundlagen und Rezepturen der Kosmetika [Fundamentals and formulations of cosmetics], 2nd edition, Verlag Hüthig, Heidelberg, pp. 319-355, to the entire scope of which reference is hereby made.
If the keratin-binding effector molecules according to the invention and/or produced according to the inventive method are used in cosmetic or dermatological preparations which are a solution or emulsion or dispersion, solvents which can be used are:
water or aqueous solutions; oils, such as triglycerides of capric acid or caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil; fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fatty substances, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low carbon number e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low carbon number or with fatty acids; alcohols, diols or polyols of low carbon number, and ethers thereof, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products. In particular, mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used. In the case of alcoholic solvents, water may be a further constituent.
According to the invention, besides the keratin-binding effector molecules according to the invention and/or produced according to the inventive method, compositions can also comprise surfactants. Such surfactants are, for example:
According to the invention, besides the keratin-binding effector molecules according to the invention and/or produced according to the inventive method, compositions may also comprise polysorbates.
Polysorbates advantageous for the purposes of the invention here are
Particularly advantageous are, in particular,
According to the invention, these are advantageously used in a concentration of from 0.1 to 5% by weight and in particular in a concentration of from 1.5 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, individually or as a mixture of two or more polysorbates.
In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the compositions also comprise conditioning agents. Conditioning agents preferred according to the invention are, for example, all compounds which are listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (Volume 4, editor: R. C. Pepe, J. A. Wenninger, G. N. McEwen, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, 9th edition, 2002) under section 4 under the keywords Hair Conditioning Agents, Humectants, Skin-Conditioning Agents, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Emollient, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Humectant, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Miscellaneous, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Occlusive and Skin Protectants, and all compounds listed in EP-A 934 956 (pp. 11-13) under “water soluble conditioning agent” and “oil soluble conditioning agent”. Further advantageous conditioning agents are, for example, the compounds referred to in accordance with INCI as Polyquaternium (in particular Polyquaternium-1 to Polyquaternium-56).
Suitable conditioning agents also include, for example, polymeric quaternary ammonium compounds, cationic cellulose derivatives and polysaccharides.
Conditioning agents advantageous according to the invention can here be chosen from the compounds shown in the table below.
Further conditioners advantageous according to the invention are cellulose derivatives and quaternized guar gum derivatives, in particular guar hydroxypropylammonium chloride (e.g. Jaguar Excel®, Jaguar C 162® (Rhodia), CAS 65497-29-2, CAS 39421-75-5).
Also, nonionic poly-N-vinylpyrrolidone/polyvinyl acetate copolymers (e.g. Luviskol®VA 64 (BASF Aktiengesellschaft)), anionic acrylate copolymers (e.g. Luviflex® Soft (BAS F Aktiengesellschaft)), and/or amphoteric amide/acrylate/methacrylate copolymers (e.g. Amphomer® (National Starch)) can be used advantageously according to the invention as conditioners.
An addition of powder raw materials may be generally advantageous. The use of talc is particularly preferred.
According to the invention, besides the keratin-binding effector molecules according to the invention and/or produced by the inventive method, compositions can, if appropriate, also comprise ethoxylated oils chosen from the group of ethoxylated glycerol fatty acid esters, particularly preferably PEG-10 olive oil glycerides, PEG-11 avocado oil glycerides, PEG-11 cocoa butter glycerides, PEG-13 sunflower oil glycerides, PEG-11 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-9 coconut fatty acid glycerides, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, jojoba oil ethoxylate (PEG-26 jojoba fatty acids, PEG-26 jojoba alcohol), glycereth-5 cocoate, PEG-9 coconut fatty acid glycerides, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-45 palm kernel oil glycerides, PEG-35 castor oil, olive oil PEG-7 ester, PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides, PEG-10 olive oil glycerides, PEG-13 sunflower oil glycerides, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated palm kernel oil glyceride PEG-6 ester, PEG-20 corn oil glycerides, PEG-18 glyceryl oleate cocoate, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 corn oil glycerides, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-45 palm kernel oil glycerides, PEG-35 castor oil, PEG-80 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-60 almond oil glycerides, PEG-60 evening primrose glycerides, PEG-200, hydrogenated glyceryl palmate and PEG-90 glyceryl isostearate.
Preferred ethoxylated oils are PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-9 cocoglycerides, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmate. Ethoxylated glycerol fatty acid esters are used in aqueous cleaning formulations for a variety of purposes. Glycerol fatty acid esters with a low degree of ethoxylation (3-12 ethylene oxide units) usually serve as refatting agents for improving the feel of the skin after drying, glycerol fatty acid esters with a degree of ethoxylation of about 30-50 serve as solubility promoters for nonpolar substances such as perfume oils. Glycerol fatty acid esters with a high degree of ethoxylation are used as thickeners. One aspect all of these substances have in common is that they produce a particular feel on the skin when used on the skin in dilution with water.
The use of the keratin-binding effector molecules according to the invention and/or produced according to the inventive method in combination with photoprotective agents in dermocosmetic preparations is likewise in accordance with the invention. These cosmetic and/or dermatological photoprotective compositions are used for cosmetic and/or dermatological photoprotection, and also for the treatment and care of the skin and/or of the hair and as make-up product in decorative cosmetics. These include, for example, sun creams, sun lotions, sun milks, sun oils, sun balsams, sun gels, lip care and lipsticks, concealing creams and sticks, moisturizing creams, lotions, emulsions, face, body and hand creams, hair treatments and rinses, hair-setting compositions, styling gels, hair sprays, roll-on deodorants or eye wrinkle creams, tropicals, sunblocks, aftersun preparations. All preparations comprise at least one keratin-binding effector molecule and one of the specified UV filter substances.
Sun oils are mostly mixtures of different oils with one or more photoprotective filters and perfume oils. The oil components are chosen according to different cosmetic properties. Oils which grease well and convey a soft feel to the skin, such as mineral oils (e.g. paraffin oils) and fatty acid triglycerides (e.g. peanut oil, sesame oil, avocado oil, medium-chain triglycerides), are mixed with oils which improve the spreadability and the absorption of the sun oils into the skin, reduce the stickiness and make the oil film permeable for air and water vapor (perspiration). These include branched-chain fatty acid esters (e.g. isopropyl palmitate) and silicone oils (e.g. dimethylsilicone). When using oils based on unsaturated fatty acids, antioxidants, e.g. tocopherol, are added in order to prevent them from becoming rancid. Sun oils, being anhydrous formulations, usually comprise no preservatives. Sun milk and sun creams are prepared as oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions and as water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions. Depending on the type of emulsion, the properties of the preparations are very variable: O/W emulsions are readily spreadable on the skin, they mostly absorb rapidly and can almost always be readily washed off with water. W/O emulsions are more difficult to rub in, they grease the skin to a more considerable degree and thus seem to be somewhat more sticky, but on the other hand better protect the skin from drying out. W/O emulsions are mostly water-resistant. In the case of O/N emulsions, the emulsion basis, the selection of suitable photoprotective substances and, if appropriate, the use of auxiliaries (e.g. polymers) determine the degree of water resistance. The bases of liquid and cream-like O/N emulsions resemble other emulsions customary in skin care in terms of their composition. Sun milk should sufficiently grease skin dried out by sun, water and wind. They must not be sticky since this is perceived as being particularly unpleasant in the heat and upon contact with sand. The sunscreen compositions are generally based on a carrier which comprises at least one oil phase. However, compositions solely on an aqueous basis are also possible. Accordingly, oils, oil-in-water and water-in-oil emulsions, creams and pastes, lip protection stick compositions or grease-free gels are suitable. Suitable emulsions are, inter alia, also O/W macroemulsions, O/W microemulsions or O/W/O emulsions with surface-coated titanium dioxide particles present in dispersed form, the emulsions being obtainable by phase inversion technology, as in DE-A-197 25 121.
Customary cosmetic auxiliaries which can be considered as additives are e.g. (co)emulsifiers, fats and waxes, stabilizers, thickeners, biogenic active ingredients, film formers, fragrances, dyes, pearlizing agents, preservatives, pigments, electrolytes (e.g. magnesium sulfate) and pH regulators. Stabilizers which can be used are metal salts of fatty acids such as, for example, magnesium stearate, aluminum stearate and/or zinc stearate. Biogenic active ingredients are understood as meaning, for example, plant extracts, protein hydrolyzates and vitamin complexes. Customary film formers are, for example, hydrocolloids, such as chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan or quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivates and similar compounds. Suitable photofilter active ingredients are substances which absorb UV rays in the UV-B and UV-A region. These are understood as meaning organic substances which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and release the absorbed energy again in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. heat. The organic substances may be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Suitable UV filters are e.g. 2,4,6-triaryl-1,3,5-triazines in which the aryl groups can each carry at least one substituent which is preferably chosen from hydroxy, alkoxy, specifically methoxy, alkoxycarbonyl, specifically methoxycarbonyl and ethoxycarbonyl. Also suitable are p-aminobenzoic esters, cinnamic esters, benzophenones, camphor derivatives, and pigments which stop UV rays, such as titanium dioxide, talc and zinc oxide. Pigments based on titanium dioxide are particularly preferred.
Oil-soluble UV-8 filters which may be used are, for example, the following substances:
3-benzylidenecamphor and derivatives thereof, e.g. 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)camphor;
4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate, 2-octyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate and amyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate;
esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene);
esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomethyl salicylate;
derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4′-methyl benzophenone, 2,2′-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate;
triazine derivatives, such as, for example, 2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carbo-2′-ethyl-1′-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazine (octyltriazone) and dioctylbutamidotriazone (Uvasorb® HEB):
propane-1,3-diones, such as, for example, 1-(4-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4′-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione.
Suitable water-soluble substances are:
2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts thereof;
sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidenecamphor, such as, for example, 4-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl)benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidene)sulfonic acid and salts thereof.
Particular preference is given to the use of esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene).
Furthermore, the use of derivatives of benzophenone, in particular 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4′-methylbenzophenone, 2,2′-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, and the use of propane-1,3-diones, such as, for example, 1-(4-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4′-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione is preferred.
Suitable typical UV-A filters are:
derivatives of benzoylmethane, such as, for example, 1-(4′-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4′-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane or 1-phenyl-3-(4′-isopropylphenyl)propane-1,3-dione;
aminohydroxy-substituted derivatives of benzophenones, such as, for example, N,N-diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl n-hexylbenzoate.
The UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures.
Further suitable UV filter substances are given in the table below.
Besides the two abovementioned groups of primary photoprotective substances, it is also possible to use secondary photoprotective agents of the antioxidant type which interrupts the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates into the skin. Typical examples thereof are superoxide dismutase, catalase, tocopherols (vitamin E) and ascorbic acid (vitamin C).
A further group are antiirritants which have an antiinflammatory effect on skin damaged by UV light. Such substances are, for example, bisabolol, phytol and phytantriol.
Likewise in accordance with the invention is the use of the keratin-binding effector molecules according to the invention and/or produced according to the inventive method in combination with inorganic pigments which stop UV rays in dermocosmetic preparations. Preference is given to pigments based on metal oxides and/or other metal compounds which are insoluble or sparingly soluble in water and chosen from the group of oxides of zinc (ZnO), titanium (TiO2), iron (e.g. Fe2O3), zirconium (ZrO2), silicon (SiO2), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al2O3), cerium (e.g. Ce2O3), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides.
The inorganic pigments can be present here in coated form, i.e. are treated superficially. This surface treatment can consist, for example, in providing the pigments with a thin hydrophobic layer by a method known per se, as described in DE-A-33 14 742.
Suitable repellent active ingredients are compounds which are able to repel or drive away certain animals, in particular insects, from humans. These include, for example, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide etc. Suitable hyperemic substances, which stimulate the flow of blood through the skin, are e.g. essential oils such as dwarf pine extract, lavender extract, rosemary extract, juniperberry extract, horse chestnut extract, birch leaf extract, hayflower extract, ethyl acetate, camphor, menthol, peppermint oil, rosemary extract, eucalyptus oil, etc. Suitable keratolytic and keratoplastic substances are, for example, salicylic acid, calcium thioglycolate, thioglycolic acid and its salts, sulfur, etc. Suitable antidandruff active ingredients are, for example, sulfur, sulfur polyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate, sulfur ricinol polyethoxylate, zinc pyrithione, aluminum pyrithione, etc. Suitable antiphlogistics, which counteract skin irritations, are, for example, allantoin, bisabolol, dragosantol, chamomile extract, panthenol, etc.
The use of the keratin-binding effector molecules according to the invention and/or produced according to the inventive method in combination with at least one cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable polymer is likewise in accordance with the invention.
Suitable polymers are, for example, cationic polymers with the INCI name Polyquaternium, e.g. copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone/N-vinylimidazolium salts (Luviquat FC, Luviquat HM, Luviquat MS, Luviquat Care), copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, quaternized with diethyl sulfate (Luviquat PQ 11), copolymers of N-vinylcaprolactam/N-vinylpyrrolidone/N-vinylimidazolium salts (Luviquat E Hold), cationic cellulose derivatives (Polyquaternium-4 and -10), acrylamide copolymers (Polyquaternium-7) and chitosan.
Suitable cationic (quaternized) polymers are also Merquat (polymer based on dimethyldiallylammonium chloride), Gafquat (quaternary polymers which are formed by reacting polyvinylpyrrolidone with quaternary ammonium compounds), polymer JR (hydroxyethylcellulose with cationic groups) and plant-based cationic polymers, e.g. guar polymers, such as the Jaguar grades from Rhodia.
Further suitable polymers are also neutral polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate and/or vinyl propionate, polysiloxanes, polyvinyicaprolactam and other copolymers with N-vinylpyrrolidone, polyethyleneimines and salts thereof, polyvinylamines and salts thereof, cellulose derivatives, polyaspartic acid salts and derivatives. These include, for example Luviflex Swing (partially hydrolyzed copolymer of polyvinyl acetate and polyethylene glycol, BASF Aktiengesellschaft).
Suitable polymers are also nonionic, water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers or oligomers, such as polyvinylcaprolactam, e.g. Luviskol 0 Plus (BASF), or polyvinylpyrrolidone and copolymers thereof, in particular with vinyl esters, such as vinyl acetate, e.g. Luviskol VA 37 (BASF), polyamides, e.g. based on itaconic acid and aliphatic diamines, as are described, for example, in DE-A43 33 238.
Suitable polymers are also amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, such as the octylacrylamide/methyl methacrylate/tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers obtainable under the names Amphomer (National Starch), and zwitterionic polymers, as are disclosed, for example, in the German patent applications DE39 29 973, DE 21 50 557, DE28 17 369 and DE 3708 451. Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid or methacrylic acid copolymers and alkali metal and ammonium salts thereof are preferred zwitterionic polymers. Further suitable zwitterionic polymers are methacroylethylbetaine/methacrylate copolymers, which are commercially available under the name Amersette (AMERCHOL), and copolymers of hydroxyethyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate, N,N-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and acrylic acid (Jordapon (D)).
Suitable polymers are also nonionic, siloxane-containing, water-soluble or -dispersible polymers, e.g. polyether siloxanes, such as Tegopren (Goldschmidt).
Likewise in accordance with the invention is the use of the keratin-binding effector molecules according to the invention and/or produced according to the inventive method in combination with dermocosmetic active ingredients (one or more compounds) advantageously chosen from the group consisting of acetylsalicylic acid, atropine, azulene, hydrocortisone and derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrocortisone-17-valerate, vitamins of the B and D series, in particular vitamin B1, vitamin B12, vitamin D, vitamin A or derivatives thereof, such as retinyl palmitate, vitamin E or derivatives thereof, such as, for example, tocopheryl acetate, vitamin C and derivatives thereof, such as, for example, ascorbyl glucoside, but also niacinamide, panthenol, bisabolol, polydocanol, unsaturated fatty acids, such as, for example, the essential fatty acids (usually referred to as vitamin F), in particular □-linolenic acid, oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid and derivatives thereof chloramphenicol, caffeine, prostaglandins, thymol, camphor, squalene, extracts or other products of vegetable and animal origin, e.g. evening primrose oil, borage oil or carob seed oil, fish oils, cod-liver oil or ceramides and ceramide-like compounds, incense extract, green tea extract, water lily extract, licorice extract, hamamelis, antidandruff active ingredients (e.g. selenium disulfide, zinc pyrithione, piroctone, olamine, climbazol, octopirox, polydocanol and combinations thereof), complex active ingredients, such as, for example, those of □-oryzanol and calcium salts, such as calcium pantothenate, calcium chloride, calcium acetate. It is also advantageous to choose the active ingredients from the group of refatting substances, for example purcellin oil, Eucerit® and Neocerit®. The active ingredient or active ingredients are also particularly advantageously chosen from the group of NO synthesis inhibitors, particularly if the preparations according to the invention are to be used for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and/or extrinsic skin aging, and for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin and the hair. A preferred NO synthesis inhibitor is nitroarginine. The active ingredient or active ingredients are further advantageously chosen from the group comprising catechins and bile acid esters of catechins and aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which have a content of catechins or bile acid esters of catechins, such as, for example, the leaves of the Theaceae plant family, in particular of the species Camellia sinensis (green tea). Their typical ingredients (e.g. polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugars, minerals, amino acids, lipids) are particularly advantageous. Catechins are a group of compounds which are to be understood as hydrogenated flavones or anthocyanidins and represent derivatives of “catechin” (catechol, 3,3′,4′,5,7-flavanpentaol, 2-(3,4-dihydroxyphenyl)chroman-3,5,7-triol). Epicatechin ((2R,3R)-3,3′,4′,5,7-flavanpentaol) is an advantageous active ingredient for the purposes of the present invention. Also advantageous are plant extracts with a content of catechins, in particular extracts of green tea, such as, for example, extracts from leaves of the plants of the species Camellia spec., very particularly the tea types Camellia sinenis, C. assamica, C. taliensis and C. inawadiensis and hybrids of these with, for example, Camellia japonica. Preferred active ingredients are also polyphenols and catechins from the group (−)-catechin, (+)-catechin, (−)-catechin gallate, (−)-gallocatechin gallate, (+)-epicatechin, (−)-epicatechin, epicatechin gallate, (−)-epigallocatechin, (−)-epigallocatechin gallate.
Flavone and its derivatives (often also collectively called “flavones”) are advantageous active ingredients for the purposes of the present invention. They are characterized by the following basic structure (substitution positions given):
Some of the more important flavones, which can also preferably be used in preparations according to the invention are listed in Table 8 below.
Flavones usually occur in nature in glycosylated form.
According to the invention, the flavonoids are preferably chosen from the group of substances of the general formula
where Z1 to Z7, independently of one another, are chosen from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy groups, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups may be branched or unbranched and have 1 to 18 carbon atoms. Furthermore, the active ingredients (one or more compounds) can also very advantageously be chosen from the group of hydrophilic active ingredients, in particular from the following group:
□-hydroxy acids, such as lactic acid or salicylic acid or salts thereof such as, for example, Na lactate, Ca lactate, TEA lactate, urea, allantoin, serine, sorbitol, glycerol, milk proteins, panthenol, chitosan.
The amount of such active ingredients (one or more compounds) in the preparations according to the invention is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. The specified active ingredients and further active ingredients which can be used in the preparations according to the invention are given in DE 103 18 526 A1 on pages 12 to 17, to the entire scope of which reference is made at this point.
In addition, the present invention relates to the use of the abovementioned preparations for preventing undesired changes in the appearance of the skin, such as, for example acne or greasy skin, keratoses, rosaceae, photosensitive, inflammatory, erythematous, allergic or autoimmune-reactive reactions.
For use, the cosmetic preparations according to the invention are applied to the skin, hair, fingernails or toenails or gums in the manner customary for cosmetics or dermocosmetics.
The present invention further provides dermocosmetics comprising a keratin-binding effector molecule, preferably a keratin-binding effector molecule produced by the method according to the invention, particularly preferably keratin-binding effector molecules for whose production effector molecules chosen from the group consisting of dyes, photoprotective agents, vitamins, provitamins, carotenoids, antioxidants and peroxide decomposers as described above have been used. Particular preference is given to dermocosmetics comprising a keratin-binding effector molecule as listed in Table 11.
Very particular preference is given to those keratin-binding effector molecules for whose production effector molecules chosen from the group consisting of 2-(4-N,N-dialkylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoic acid derivatives, branched and unbranched fatty acids, e.g. palmitic acid, eicosanoic acid or 18-methyleicosanoic acid, biotin, pantothenic acid, retinoic acid and polysiloxanecarboyxlic acids and chlorides are used. Preference is given most of all to dermocosmetics comprising keratin-binding effector molecules which comprise at least one keratin-binding polypeptide (ii) according to the sequences depicted in SEQ ID No.: 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66, 68, 70, 72, 74, 76, 78, 80, 82, 84, 86, 88, 90, 92, 94, 96, 98, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 110, 112, 114, 116, 118, 120, 122, 124, 126, 128, 130, 132, 134, 136, 138, 140, 146, 150, 153, 156, 157, 158, 160, 162, 164, 166, 168 or 170, preferably in SEQ ID No: 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 146, 150, 153, 156, 157, 158, 160, 162, 164, 166, 168 or 170, particularly preferably 166 and 168, most preferably 168 and for whose preparation the linker molecule (iii) used was maleimidopentanol. Very particular preference is given to the abovementioned keratin-binding effector molecules in which the linker molecule (iii) used was maleimidopentanol, and 2-(4-N,N-dialkylamino-2-hydroxy)benzoylbenzoic acid derivatives (as described above), preferably 2-(4-N,N-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoic acid, were used as effector molecule (i).
In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the dermocosmetics or compositions for oral care, dental care and denture care, preferably skin- and hair-treatment compositions, comprise a keratin-binding effector molecule according to the invention and/or produced according to the inventive method in a concentration of from 0.001 to 1 percent by weight (% by wt.), preferably 0.01 to 0.9% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01 to 0.8% by weight or 0.01 to 0.7% by weight, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 0.6% by weight or 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, most preferably 0.01 to 0.4% by weight or 0.01 to 0.3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In a further embodiment, the compositions comprise a keratin-binding effector molecule according to the invention and/or produced according to the inventive method in a concentration of from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably 2 to 8% by weight, 3 to 7% by weight, 4 to 6% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. In a likewise preferred embodiment, the compositions comprise a keratin-binding effector molecule according to the invention and/or produced according to the inventive method in a concentration of from 10 to 20% by weight, preferably 11 to 19% by weight, 12 to 18% by weight, 13 to 17% by weight, 14 to 16% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In a likewise preferred embodiment, the compositions comprise a keratin-binding effector molecule according to the invention and/or produced according to the inventive method in a concentration of from 20 to 30% by weight, preferably 21 to 29% by weight, 22 to 28% by weight, 23 to 27% by weight, 24 to 26% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
The compositions according to the invention are preferably skin protection compositions, skincare compositions, skin-cleansing compositions, hair protection compositions, haircare compositions, hair-cleansing compositions, hair colorants mouthwashes and mouth rinses, or preparation for decorative cosmetics, which are preferably used in the form of ointments, creams, emulsions, suspensions, lotions, as milk, pastes, gels, foams or sprays, depending on the field of use.
Besides the keratin-binding effector molecules according to the invention and/or produced by the inventive method, the dermocosmetics according to the invention can comprise all of the polymers, pigments, humectants, oils, waxes, enzymes, minerals, vitamins, sunscreen agents, dyes, fragrances, antioxidants, preservatives and/or pharmaceutical active ingredients already listed above.
Additionally, the following applies for the dermocosmetics according to the invention:
The formulation base of compositions according to the invention preferably comprises cosmetically or dermocosmetically/pharmaceutically acceptable auxiliaries. Pharmaceutically acceptable auxiliaries are the auxiliaries which are known for use in the field of pharmacy, food technology and related fields, in particular the auxiliaries listed in the relevant pharmacopoeia (e.g. DAB Ph. Eur. BP NF), and other auxiliaries whose properties do not preclude a physiological application.
Suitable auxiliaries may be: glidants, wetting agents, emulsifying and suspending agents, preservatives, antioxidants, antiirritatives, chelating agents, emulsion stabilizers, film formers, gel formers, odor masking agents, resins, hydrocolloids, solvents, solubility promoters, neutralizing agents, permeation accelerators, pigments, quaternary ammonium compounds, refatting and superfatting agents, ointment, cream or oil base substances, silicone derivatives, stabilizers, sterilizing agents, propellants, drying agents, opacifiers, thickeners, waxes, softeners, white oil. An embodiment in this regard is based on specialist knowledge, as shown, for example, in Fiedler, H. P. Lexikon der Hilfsstoffe für Pharmazie, Kosmetik und angrenzende Gebiete [Lexicon of auxiliaries for pharmacy, cosmetics and related fields], 4th edition, Aulendorf: ECV-Editio-Kantor-Verlag, 1996.
To produce the dermocosmetic compositions according to the invention, the active ingredients can be mixed or diluted with a suitable auxiliary (excipient). Excipients may be solid, semisolid or liquid materials which can serve as vehicles, carriers or medium for the active ingredient. The admixing of further auxiliaries takes place, if desired, in the manner known to the person skilled in the art. In addition, the polymers and dispersions are suitable as auxiliaries in pharmacy, preferably as or in (a) coating composition(s) or binder(s) for solid drug forms. They can also be used in creams and as tablet coatings and tablet binders.
According to a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are cosmetic compositions for the care and protection of the skin and hair, nailcare compositions or preparations for decorative cosmetics.
Suitable skin cosmetic compositions are, for example, face tonics, face masks, deodorants and other cosmetic lotions. Compositions for use in decorative cosmetics include, for example, concealing sticks, stage make-up, mascara and eye shadows, lipsticks, kohl pencils, eyeliners, blushers, powders and eyebrow pencils.
Furthermore, the keratin-binding effector molecules according to the invention and/or produced according to the inventive method are used in nose strips for pore cleansing, in antiacne compositions, repellents, shaving compositions, aftershave and preshave care compositions, aftersun care compositions, hair removal compositions, hair colorants, intimate care compositions, footcare compositions, and in baby care.
The skincare compositions according to the invention are, in particular, W/O or O/W skin creams, day creams and night creams, eye creams, face creams, antiwrinkle creams, sunscreen creams, moisturizing creams, bleaching creams, self-tanning creams, vitamin creams, skin lotions, care lotions and moisturizing lotions.
Skin cosmetic and dermatological compositions according to the invention can also comprise an active ingredient which decomposes free radicals as protection against oxidative processes and the associated aging processes or damage to skin and/or hair, besides the keratin-binding effector molecule according to the invention and/or produced according to the inventive method. These active ingredients are preferably the substances described in the patent applications WO/0207698 and WO/03059312, to the contents of which reference is hereby expressly made, preferably the boron-comprising compounds described therein, which can reduce peroxides or hydroperoxides to give the corresponding alcohols without the formation of free-radical subsequent states. In addition, sterically hindered amines according to the general formula 3 can be used for this purpose,
where the radical Z has the following meaning: H, C1-C22 alkyl group, preferably C1-C12 alkyl group, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, tert-pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, C1-C22-alkoxyl group, preferably C1-C12-alkoxyl group, such as alkoxy-methyl, alkoxyethyl, alkoxy-propyl, alkoxy-isopropyl, alkoxy-butyl, alkoxy-isobutyl, alkoxy-sec-butyl, alkoxy-tert-butyl, alkoxy-pentyl, alkoxy-isopentyl, alkoxy-neopentyl, alkoxy-tert-pentyl, alkoxy-hexyl, alkoxy-heptyl, alkoxy-octyl, alkoxy-nonyl, alkoxy-decyl, alkoxy-undecyl, alkoxy-dodecyl, C6 to C10-aryl group, such as phenyl and naphthyl, where the phenyl radical can be substituted by C1 to C4 alkyl radicals, C6 to C10—O-aryl group, which can be substituted by a C1-C22 alkyl or C1-C22-alkoxy group, preferably by a C1-C12 alkyl or C1-C12-alkoxy group as described above, and
the radicals R1 to R6, independently of one another, have the following meaning: H, OH, O, C1-C22 alkyl group, preferably C1-C12 alkyl group, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, tert-pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, C1-C22-alkoxyl group, preferably C1-C12-alkoxyl group, such as alkoxy-methyl, alkoxy-ethyl, alkoxy-propyl, alkoxy-isopropyl, alkoxy-butyl, alkoxy-isobutyl, alkoxy-sec-butyl, alkoxy-tert-butyl, alkoxy-pentyl, alkoxy-isopentyl, alkoxy-neopentyl, alkoxy-tert-pentyl, alkoxy-hexyl, alkoxy-heptyl, alkoxy-octyl, alkoxy-nonyl, alkoxy-decyl, alkoxy-undecyl, alkoxy-dodecyl, C6 to C10-O-aryl group, such as phenyl and naphthyl, where the phenyl radical can be substituted by C1 to C4 alkyl radicals, C6 to C10—O-aryl group, which may be substituted by a C1-C22 alkyl or C1-C22-alkoxyl group, preferably by a C1-C12 alkyl or C1-C12-alkoxyl group, as described above.
Particular preference is given to the use of the sterically hindered amines 3-dodecyl-N-(2,2,6,6-tetramethyl-4-piperidinyl)succinimide, 3-dodecyl-N-(1,2,2,6,6-pentamethyl-4-piperidinyl)succinimide, 3-octyl-N-(2,2,6,6-tetramethyl-4-piperidinyl)succinimide, 3-octyl-N-(1,2,2,6,6-pentamethyl-4-piperidinyl)succinimide, 3-octenyl-N-(2,2,6,6-tetramethyl-4-piperidinyl)succinimide, 3-octenyl-N-(1,2,2,6,6-pentamethyl-4-piperidinyl)succinimide and/or Uvinul®5050H, in an amount of from 0.001 to 1 percent by weight (% by wt.), preferably 0.01 to 0.1% by weight, 0.1 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
Besides the abovementioned compounds according to the invention and suitable carriers, the skin cosmetic preparations can also comprise further active ingredients and auxiliaries customary in skin cosmetics, as described above. These include, preferably, emulsifiers, preservatives, perfume oils, cosmetic active ingredients, such as phytantriol, vitamin A, E and C, retinol, bisabolol, panthenol, photoprotective agents, bleaches, colorants, tinting agents, tanning agents, collagen, protein hydrolyzates, stabilizers, pH regulators, dyes, salts, thickeners, gel formers, consistency regulators, silicones, humectants, refatting agents and/or further customary additives.
Preferred oil and fat components of the skin cosmetic and dermocosmetic compositions are the abovementioned mineral and synthetic oils, such as, for example, paraffins, silicone oils and aliphatic hydrocarbons having more than 8 carbon atoms, animal and vegetable oils, such as, for example, sunflower oil, coconut oil, avocado oil, olive oil, lanolin, or waxes, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, such as, for example, triglycerides of C6-C30 fatty acids, wax esters, such as, for example, jojoba oil, fatty alcohols, Vaseline, hydrogenated lanolin and acetylated lanolin, and mixtures thereof.
To establish certain properties, such as, for example, improving the feel to the touch, the spreading behavior, the water resistance and/or the binding of active ingredients and auxiliaries such as pigments, the skin cosmetic and dermocosmetic preparations can additionally also comprise conditioning substances based on silicone compounds.
Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyarylalkylsiloxanes, polyether siloxanes or silicone resins.
The cosmetic or dermocosmetic preparations are produced by customary methods known to the person skilled in the art.
Preferably, the cosmetic and dermocosmetic compositions are present in the form of emulsions, in particular as water-in-oil (W/O) or oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions.
However, it is also possible to choose other types of formulation, for example gels, oils, oleogels, multiple emulsions, for example in the form of W/O/W or O/W/O emulsions, anhydrous ointments or ointment bases, etc. Emulsifier-free formulations, such as hydrodispersions, hydrogels or a Pickering emulsion are also advantageous embodiments.
Emulsions are produced by known methods. Besides at least one keratin-binding effector molecule, the emulsions usually comprise customary constituents, such as fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and, in particular, fatty acid triglycerides, fatty acids, lanolin and derivatives thereof, natural or synthetic oils or waxes and emulsifiers in the presence of water. The choice of additives specific to the type of emulsion and the production of suitable emulsions is described, for example, in Schrader, Grundlagen und Rezepturen der Kosmetika [Fundamentals and formulations of cosmetics], Hüthig Buch Verlag, Heidelberg, 2nd edition, 1989, third part, or Umbach, Kosmetik: Entwicklung, Herstellung und Anwendung kosmetischer Mittel [Cosmetics; development, manufacture and use of cosmetic compositions], 2nd expanded edition, 1995, Georg Thieme Verlag, ISBN 3 13 712602 9, pages 122 ff., to which reference is hereby expressly made.
A suitable emulsion in the form of a W/O emulsion, e.g. for a skin cream etc., generally comprises an aqueous phase which is emulsified in an oil or fatty phase using a suitable emulsifier system. A polyelectrolyte complex can be used for the provision of the aqueous phase.
Preferred fatty components which may be present in the fatty phase of the emulsions are: hydrocarbon oils, such as paraffin oil, purcellin oil, perhydrosqualene and solutions of microcrystalline waxes in these oils; animal or vegetable oils, such as sweet almond oil, avocado oil, calophylum oil, lanolin and derivatives thereof, castor oil, sesame oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, karite oil, hoplostethus oil, mineral oils whose distillation start-point under atmospheric pressure is at about 250° C. and whose distillation end-point is at 410° C., such as, for example, Vaseline oil, esters of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, such as alkyl myristates, e.g. isopropyl myristate, butyl myristate or cetyl myristate, hexadecyl stearate, ethyl or isopropyl palmitate, octanoic or decanoic acid triglycerides and cetyl ricinoleate.
The fatty phase can also comprise silicone oils which are soluble in other oils, such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane and the silicone glycol copolymer, fatty acids and fatty alcohols.
Besides the above-described compounds according to the invention, the skincare compositions can also comprise waxes, such as, for example, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, beeswax, microcrystalline wax, ozokerite wax and Ca, Mg and Al oleates, myristates, linoleates and stearates.
In addition, an emulsion according to the invention may be in the form of an O/W emulsion. Such an emulsion usually comprises an oil phase, emulsifiers which stabilize the oil phase in the water phase, and an aqueous phase, which is usually present in thickened form. Suitable emulsifiers are preferably O/W emulsifiers, such as polyglycerol esters, sorbitan esters or partially esterified glycerides.
According to a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are a photoprotective composition, a shower gel, a shampoo formulation or a bath preparation, with photoprotective preparations being particularly preferred.
Such formulations comprise at least one keratin-binding effector molecule according to the invention and/or produced according to the inventive method, and usually anionic surfactants as base surfactants and amphoteric and/or nonionic surfactants as cosurfactants. Further suitable active ingredients and/or auxiliaries are generally chosen from lipids, perfume oils, dyes, organic acids, preservatives and antioxidants, and thickeners/gel formers, skin conditioning agents and humectants.
These formulations advantageously comprise 2 to 50% by weight, preferably 5 to 40% by weight, particularly preferably 8 to 30% by weight, of surfactants, based on the total weight of the formulation.
In the washing, shower and bath preparations, all of the anionic, neutral, amphoteric or cationic surfactants customarily used in body-cleansing compositions can be used.
Suitable anionic surfactants are, for example, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, N-alkoyl sarcosinates, acyl taurates, acyl isothionates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl ether carboxylates, alpha-olefinsulfonates, in particular the alkali metal and alkaline earth metal salts, e.g. sodium, potassium, magnesium, calcium, and ammonium triethanolamine salts. The alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl ether carboxylates can have between 1 and 10 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units, preferably 1 to 3 ethylene oxide units, in the molecule.
These include, for example, sodium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate, sodium lauryl sarcosinate, sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate, sodium dodecylbenzenesulfonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzenesulfonate.
Suitable amphoteric surfactants are, for example, alkylbetaines, alkylamidopropylbetaines, alkylsulfobetaines, alkyl glycinates, alkyl carboxyglycinates, alkyl amphoacetates or -propionates, alkyl amphodiacetates or -dipropionates.
For example, cocodimethylsulfopropylbetaine, laurylbetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine or sodium cocamphopropionate can be used.
Suitable nonionic surfactants are, for example, the reaction products of aliphatic alcohols or alkylphenols having 6 to 20 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain, which may be linear or branched, with ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide. The amount of alkylene oxide is about 6 to 60 mol per mole of alcohol. In addition, alkylamine oxides, mono- or dialkylalkanolamides, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycols, ethoxylated fatty acid amides, alkyl polyglycosides or sorbitan ether esters are suitable.
Furthermore, the washing, shower and bath preparation can comprise customary cationic surfactants, such as, for example, quaternary ammonium compounds, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride.
In addition, the shower gel/shampoo formulations can comprise thickeners, such as, for example, sodium chloride, PEG-55, propylene glycol oleate, PEG-120 methylglucose dioleate and others, and also preservatives, further active ingredients and auxiliaries and water.
According to a further preferred embodiment, the dermocosmetics according to the invention are hair treatment compositions.
Preferably, the hair treatment compositions according to the invention are in the form of a setting foam, hair mousse, hair gel, shampoo, hair spray, hair foam, end fluid, neutralizer for permanent waves, hair colorant and bleach or hot-oil treatment. Depending on the field of use, the hair cosmetic preparations can be applied as (aerosol) spray, (aerosol) foam, gel, gel spray, cream, lotion or wax. Hair sprays include here both aerosol sprays and also pump sprays without propellant gas. Hair foams include both aerosol foams and also pump foams without propellant gas. Hair sprays and hair foams preferably include predominantly or exclusively water-soluble or water-dispersible components. If the compounds used in the hair sprays and hair foams according to the invention are dispersible in water, they can be applied in the form of aqueous microdispersions with particle diameters of usually 1 to 350 nm, preferably 1 to 250 nm. The solids contents of these preparations are here usually in a range from about 0.5 to 20% by weight. These microdispersions do not usually require emulsifiers or surfactants for their stabilization.
Further constituents are to be understood as meaning the additives customary in cosmetics, for example propellants, antifoams, interface-active compounds, i.e. surfactants, emulsifiers, foam formers and solubilizers. The interface-active compounds used may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or neutral. Further customary constituents may also be, for example, preservatives, perfume oils, opacifiers, active ingredients, UV filters, care substances, such as panthenol, collagen, vitamins, protein hydrolyzates, alpha- and beta-hydroxycarboxylic acids, stabilizers, pH regulators, dyes, viscosity regulators, gel formers, salts, humectants, refatting agents, complexing agents and further customary additives.
Also included here are all styling and conditioner polymers known in cosmetics which can be used in combination with the sterically hindered amines according to the invention if quite specific properties are to be established.
Suitable conventional hair cosmetic polymers are, for example, the abovementioned cationic, anionic, neutral, nonionic and amphoteric polymers, to which reference is made here.
To establish certain properties, the preparations can additionally also comprise conditioning substances based on silicone compounds. Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyarylalkylsiloxanes, polyether siloxanes, silicone resins or dimethicone copolyols (CTFA) and amino functional silicone compounds, such as amodimethicones (CTFA).
Propellants are the propellants customarily used for hair sprays or aerosol foams. Preference is given to mixtures of propane/butane, pentane, dimethyl ether, 1,1-difluoroethane (HFC-152 a), carbon dioxide, nitrogen or compressed air.
Emulsifiers which can be used are all emulsifiers customarily used in hair foams. Suitable emulsifiers may be nonionic, cationic or anionic or amphoteric. Examples of nonionic emulsifiers (INCI nomenclature) are laureths, e.g. laureth-4; ceteths, e.g. ceteth-1, polyethylene glycol cetyl ether, ceteareths, e.g. ceteareth-25, polyglycol fatty acid glycerides, hydroxylated lecithin, lactyl esters of fatty acids, alkyl polyglycosides.
Examples of cationic emulsifiers are cetyldimethyl-2-hydroxyethylammonium dihydrogenphosphate, cetyltrimonium chloride, cetyltrimonium bromide, cocotrimonium methyl sulfate, quaternium-1 to ×(INCI).
Anionic emulsifiers can be chosen, for example, from the group of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, N-alkoyl sarcosinates, acyl taurates, acyl isethionates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl ether carboxylates, alpha-olefinsulfonates, in particular the alkali metal and alkaline earth metal salts, e.g. sodium, potassium, magnesium, calcium, and ammonium and triethanolamine salts. The alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl ether carboxylates can have between 1 and 10 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units, preferably 1 to 3 ethylene oxide units, in the molecule.
Gel formers which can be used are all gel formers customary in cosmetics. These include slightly crosslinked polyacrylic acid, for example Carbomer (INCI), cellulose derivatives, e.g. hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, cationically modified celluloses, polysaccharides, e.g. xanthan gum, caprylic/capric triglyceride, sodium acrylate copolymers, polyquaternium-32 (and) paraffinum liquidum (INCI), sodium acrylate copolymers (and) paraffinum liquidum (and) PPG-1 trideceth-6, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymers, steareth-10 allyl ether, acrylate copolymers, polyquaternium-37 (and) paraffinum liquidum (and) PPG-1 trideceth-6, polyquaternium 37 (and) propylene glycol dicaprate dicaprylate (and) PPG-1 trideceth-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-44.
In the shampoo formulations, all of the anionic, neutral, amphoteric or cationic surfactants customarily used in shampoos can be used.
Suitable anionic surfactants are, for example, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, N-alkoyl sarcosinates, acyl taurates, acyl isothionates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl ether carboxylates, alpha-olefinsulfonates, in particular the alkali metal and alkaline earth metal salts, e.g. sodium, potassium, magnesium, calcium, and ammonium and triethanolamine salts. The alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl ether carboxylates can have between 1 and 10 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units, preferably 1 to 3 ethylene oxide units, in the molecule.
Of suitability are, for example, sodium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate, sodium dodecylbenzenesulfonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzenesulfonate.
Suitable amphoteric surfactants are, for example, alkylbetaines, alkylamidopropylbetaines, alkylsulfobetaines, alkyl glycinates, alkyl carboxyglycinates, alkyl amphoacetates or -propionates, alkyl amphodiacetates or -dipropionates.
For example, cocodimethylsulfopropylbetaine, laurylbetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine or sodium cocamphopropionate can be used.
Suitable nonionic surfactants are, for example, the reaction products of aliphatic alcohols or alkylphenols having 6 to 20 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain, which may be linear or branched, with ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide. The amount of alkylene oxide is about 6 to 60 mol per mole of alcohol. In addition, alkylamine oxides, mono- or dialkylalkanolamides, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycols, alkyl polyglycosides or sorbitan ether esters are suitable.
Furthermore, the shampoo formulations can comprise customary cationic surfactants, such as, for example, quaternary ammonium compounds, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride.
In the shampoo formulations, in order to achieve certain effects, customary conditioning agents can be used in combination with the keratin-binding effector molecules according to the invention.
These include, for example, the abovementioned cationic polymers with the INCI name Polyquaternium, in particular copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone/N-vinylimidazolium salts (Luviquat FC, Luviquat MS, Luviquat Care), copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, quaternized with diethyl sulfate (Luviquat D PQ 11), copolymers of N-vinylcaprolactam/N-vinylpyrrolidone/N-vinylimidazolium salts (Luviquat D Hold), cationic cellulose derivatives (Polyquaternium-4 and -10), acrylamide copolymers (Polyquaternium-7). In addition, protein hydrolyzates can be used, and also conditioning substances based on silicone compounds, for example polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyarylalkylsiloxanes, polyether siloxanes or silicone resins. Further suitable silicone compounds are dimethicone copolyols (CTFA) and amino-functional silicone compounds, such as amodimethicones (CTFA). In addition, cationic guar derivatives, such as Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride (INCI) can be used.
According to a further embodiment, this hair cosmetic or skin cosmetic preparation serves for the care and the protection of the skin or hair and is in the form of an emulsion, a dispersion, a suspension, an aqueous surfactant preparation, a milk, a lotion, a cream, a balsam, an ointment, a gel, a granulate, a powder, a stick preparation, such as, for example, a lipstick, a foam, an aerosol or a spray. Such formulations are highly suitable for topical preparations. Suitable emulsions are oil-in-water emulsions and water-in-oil emulsions or microemulsions.
As a rule, the hair cosmetic or skin cosmetic preparation is used for application to the skin (topical) or hair. Topical preparations are understood here as meaning those preparations which are suitable for applying the active ingredients to the skin in a fine distribution and preferably in a form which can be absorbed by the skin. Of suitability for this purpose are, for example, aqueous and aqueous-alcoholic solutions, sprays, foams, foam aerosols, ointments, aqueous gels, emulsions of the O/W or W/O type, microemulsions or cosmetic stick preparations.
According to a preferred embodiment of the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the composition comprises a carrier. A preferred carrier is water, a gas, a water-based liquid, an oil, a gel, an emulsion or microemulsion, a dispersion or a mixture thereof. The specified carriers exhibit good skin compatibility. Of particular advantage for topical preparations are aqueous gels, emulsions or microemulsions.
Emulsifiers which can be used are nonionogenic surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants, ampholytic surfactants or anionic emulsifiers. The emulsifiers may be present in the composition according to the invention in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 1 to 5% by weight, based on the composition.
The nonionogenic surfactant used may, for example, be a surfactant from at least one of the following groups:
addition products of from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, onto fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and onto alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group;
C12/18-fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto glycerol; glycerol mono- and diesters and sorbitan mono- and diesters of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and ethylene oxide addition products thereof; alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and ethoxylated analogs thereof addition products of from 15 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide onto castor oil and/or hydrogenated castor oil; polyol and, in particular polyglycerol esters, such as, for example, polyglycerol polyricinoleate, polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate or polyglycerol dimerate. Likewise suitable are mixtures of compounds from two or more of these classes of substances; addition products of from 2 to 15 mol of ethylene oxide onto castor oil and/or hydrogenated castor oil; partial esters based on linear, branched, unsaturated or saturated C6/22 fatty acids, ricinoleic acid, and 12-hydroxystearic acid and glycerol, polyglycerol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g. methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside), and polyglucosides (e.g. cellulose); mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates, and mono-, di- and/or tri-PEG alkyl phosphates and salts thereof; wool wax alcohols;
polysiloxane-polyalkyl polyether copolymers and corresponding derivatives;
mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol as in German patent specification 1165574 and/or mixed esters of fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methylglucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol, and polyalkylene glycols.
In addition, zwitterionic surfactants can be used as emulsifiers. Zwitterionic surfactants is the term used to refer to those surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate group or a sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethyl ammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethyl carboxymethylglycinate. Particular preference is given to the fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
Likewise suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from C8,18-alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, comprise at least one free amino group and at least one —COOH— or —SO3H group, and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylgiycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids having in each case about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group.
Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C12/18-acylsarcosine. Besides the ampholytic emulsifiers, quaternary emulsifiers are also suitable, with those of the ester quat type, preferably methyl-quaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred. Furthermore, anionic emulsifiers which may be used are alkyl ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, fatty acid sulfates, sulfosuccinates and/or ether carboxylic acids.
Suitable oil bodies are Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms, esters of linear C6-C22-fatty acids with linear C6-C22-fatty alcohols, esters of branched C6-C13-carboxylic acids with linear C6-C22-fatty alcohols, esters of linear C6-C22-fatty acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of linear and/or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as, for example, propylene glycol, dimerdiol or trimertriol) and/or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C6-C10-fatty acids, liquid mono-/di-, triglyceride mixtures based on C6-C18-fatty acids, esters of C6-C22-fatty alcohols and/or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, in particular benzoic acid, esters of C2-C12-dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols having 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear C6-C22-fatty alcohol carbonates, Guerbet carbonates, esters of benzoic acid with linear and/or branched C6-C22-alcohols (e.g. Finsolv® TN), dialkyl ethers, ring-opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils and/or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons. Oil bodies which may be used are also silicone compounds, for example dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones, and amino-, fatty-acid-, alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-, alkyl- and/or glycoside-modified silicone compounds, which may either be in the form of a liquid or in the form of a resin at room temperature. The oil bodies may be present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 1 to 90% by weight, preferably 5 to 80% by weight, and in particular 10 to 50% by weight, based on the composition.
The list of specified ingredients which can be used together with the keratin-binding effector molecules according to the invention and/or produced by the inventive method should of course not be regarded as being exhaustive or limiting. The ingredients can be used individually or in any combinations with one another.
The invention further provides compounds of the formula 2,
where “n” is an integer between 0 and 20, preferably between 3 and 15, particularly preferably between 3 and 10, very particularly preferably between 3 and 8, most preferably of all 4.
The present invention further provides compounds of the formula 2a where “n” is an integer between 0 and 20, preferably between 3 and 15, particularly preferably between 3 and 10, very particularly preferably between 3 and 8, most preferably of all 4, and X corresponds to the modulus defined in the formula 1b.
The invention further provides compounds of the formula 3,
where “n” is an integer between 0 and 20, preferably between 0 and 15, particularly preferably between 1 and 10, very particularly preferably between 1 and 8, most preferably of all 1 or 4, “o” is an integer between 0 and 30, preferably between 0 and 20, particularly preferably between 6 and 16, “p” is an integer between 0 and 5, particularly preferably 0, 1 or 2, and “q” is 0, 1 or 2.
In addition, mono- or polyunsaturated compounds which could be converted into compounds of the general formula 3 by hydrogenation are also understood as being included.
Homo sapiens Desmoplakin_Accession No. NM_004415
Homo sapiens Desmoplakin_Accession No. NM_004415
Homo sapiens Desmoplakin_Accession No. NM_004415 domain B
Homo sapiens Desmoplakin_Accession No. NM_004415 domain B
Homo sapiens Desmoplakin_Accession No. NM_004415 domain B-1
Homo sapiens Desmoplakin_Accession No. NM_004415 domain B-1
Homo sapiens Desmoplakin_Accession No. NM_004415 domain B-2
Homo sapiens Desmoplakin_Accession No. NM_004415 domain B-2
Homo sapiens Desmoplakin_Accession No. NM_004415 domain C
Homo sapiens Desmoplakin_Accession No. NM_004415 domain C
Homo sapiens Desmoplakin_Accession No. NM_004415 domain C-1
Homo sapiens Desmoplakin_Accession No. NM_004415 domain C-1
Homo sapiens Desmoplakin_Accession No. NM_004415 domain C-2
Homo sapiens Desmoplakin_Accession No. NM_004415 domain C-2
H. sapiens_Filaggrin_Accession No. CAI19595
H. sapiens_Filaggrin_Accession No. CAI19596
Homo sapiens plakophilin 1 ACCESSION NM_001005337, transcript
Homo sapiens plakophilin 1 ACCESSION NM_001005337, transcript
Homo sapiens plakophilin 1 ACCESSION NM_000299, transcript variant
Homo sapiens plakophilin 1 ACCESSION NM_000299, transcript variant
Mus musculus plakophilin 2 ACCESSION NM_026163 NM_027894
Mus musculus plakophilin 2 ACCESSION NM_026163 NM_027895
Mus musculus plakophilin 1 ACCESSION NM_019645
Mus musculus plakophilin 1 ACCESSION NM_019646
Bos taurus plakophilin 1 partial mRNA, ACCESSION XM_868348
Bos taurus plakophilin 1 partial mRNA, ACCESSION XM_868349
Canis familiaris similar to plakophilin 1 isoform 1a, ACCESSION
Canis familiaris similar to plakophilin 1 isoform 1a, ACCESSION
Danio rerio similar to Plakophilin 1 ACCESSION XM_695832
Danio rerio similar to Plakophilin 1 ACCESSION XM_695833
Rattus norvegicus similar to plakophilin 1, ACCESSION XM_222666
Rattus norvegicus similar to plakophilin 1, ACCESSION XM_222667
Pan troglodytes similar to Plakophilin 1, ACCESSION XM_514091
Pan troglodytes similar to Plakophilin 1, ACCESSION XM_514092
Gallus gallus similar to plakophilin 1, ACCESSION XM_419240
Gallus gallus similar to plakophilin 1, ACCESSION XM_419241
Xenopus laevis similar to plakophilin 4, ACCESSION BI390496
Xenopus laevis similar to plakophilin 4, ACCESSION BI390497
Homo sapiens desmoplakin, transcript variant 2, ACCESSION
Homo sapiens desmoplakin, transcript variant 2, ACCESSION
Mus musculus desmoplakin, ACCESSION XM_621314
Mus musculus desmoplakin, ACCESSION XM_621315
Rattus norvegicus similar to desmoplakin isoform II, ACCESSION
Rattus norvegicus similar to desmoplakin isoform II, ACCESSION
Pan troglodytes desmoplakin, ACCESSION XM_518227
Pan troglodytes desmoplakin, ACCESSION XM_518228
Gallus gallus similar to Desmoplakin, ACCESSION XM_418957
Gallus gallus similar to Desmoplakin, ACCESSION XM_418958
Homo sapiens junction plakoglobin (JUP), transcript variant 2,
Homo sapiens junction plakoglobin (JUP), transcript variant 2,
Mus musculus, plakoglobin; gamma-catenin, ACCESSION NM_010593
Mus musculus, plakoglobin; gamma-catenin, ACCESSION NM_010594
Rattus norvegicus gamma-catenin (plakoglobin), ACCESSION
Rattus norvegicus gamma-catenin (plakoglobin), ACCESSION
Danio rerio armadillo protein family; plakoglobin, ACCESSION
Danio rerio armadillo protein family; plakoglobin, ACCESSION
Xenopus tropicalis junction plakoglobin, ACCESSION BC064717
Xenopus tropicalis junction plakoglobin, ACCESSION BC064718
Canis familiaris similar to junction plakoglobin isoform 10, ACCESSION
Canis familiaris similar to junction plakoglobin isoform 10, ACCESSION
Xenopus laevis Jup protein, ACCESSION BC094116
Xenopus laevis Jup protein, ACCESSION BC094117
Bos taurus junction plakoglobin, ACCESSION NM_001004024
Bos taurus junction plakoglobin, ACCESSION NM_001004025
Sus scrofa plakoglobin, ACCESSION NM_214323
Sus scrofa plakoglobin, ACCESSION NM_214324
Danio rerio junction plakoglobin, ACCESSION BC058305
Danio rerio junction plakoglobin, ACCESSION BC058306
Saccharomyces cerevisiae, plakoglobin/armadillo/beta-catenin,
Saccharomyces cerevisiae, plakoglobin/armadillo/beta-catenin,
Homo sapiens plectin 1, intermediate filament binding protein,
Homo sapiens plectin 1, intermediate filament binding protein,
Mus musculus plectin 1 (Plec1), transcript variant 11, mRNA,
Mus musculus plectin 1 (Plec1), transcript variant 11, mRNA,
Bos taurus similar to plectin 1 isoform 1 (LOC510991), ACCESSION
Bos taurus similar to plectin 1 isoform 1 (LOC510991), ACCESSION
Canis familiaris similar to plectin 1 isoform, ACCESSION XM_539204
Canis familiaris similar to plectin 1 isoform, ACCESSION XM_539205
Trypanosoma cruzi, plectin-like protein, ACCESSION XM_809849
Trypanosoma cruzi, plectin-like protein, ACCESSION XM_809850
Rattus norvegicus plectin, ACCESSION X59601
Rattus norvegicus plectin, ACCESSION X59602
Cricetulus griseus plectin, ACCESSION AF260753
Cricetulus griseus plectin, ACCESSION AF260754
Homo sapiens periplakin, ACCESSION NM_002705
Homo sapiens periplakin, ACCESSION NM_002706
Mus musculus periplakin, ACCESSION NM_008909 XM_358905
Mus musculus periplakin, ACCESSION NM_008909 XM_358906
Homo sapiens envoplakin, ACCESSION NM_001988
Homo sapiens envoplakin, ACCESSION NM_001989
Mus musculus envoplakin, ACCESSION NM_025276 XM_283024
Mus musculus envoplakin, ACCESSION NM_025276 XM_283025
Bos taurus similar to Envoplakin, ACCESSION XM_587641
Bos taurus similar to Envoplakin, ACCESSION XM_587642
Canis familiaris similar to Envoplakin, ACCESSION XM_540443
Canis familiaris similar to Envoplakin, ACCESSION XM_540444
Danio rerio similar to Envoplakin, ACCESSION XM_687958
Danio rerio similar to Envoplakin, ACCESSION XM_687959
Rattus norvegicus, similar to envoplakin, db_xref GeneID: 303687
Rattus norvegicus, similar to envoplakin, db_xref GeneID: 303688
Pan troglodytes similar to Envoplakin, ACCESSION XM_511692
Pan troglodytes similar to Envoplakin, ACCESSION XM_511693
Mus musculus bullous pemphigold antigen 1 (Bpag1), ACCESSION
Mus musculus bullous pemphigold antigen 1 (Bpag1), ACCESSION
Mus musculus trichohyalin-like 1, ACCESSION NM_027762
Mus musculus trichohyalin-like 1, ACCESSION NM_027763
Bos taurus similar to trichohyalin-like 1, ACCESSION XM_597026
Bos taurus similar to trichohyalin-like 1, ACCESSION XM_597027
Homo sapiens trichohyalin-like 1, ACCESSION NM_001008536
Homo sapiens trichohyalin-like 1, ACCESSION NM_001008536
Strongylocentrotus purpuratus similar to Trichohyalin, ACCESSION
Strongylocentrotus purpuratus similar to Trichohyalin, ACCESSION
Trypanosoma cruzi trichohyalin, putative, ACCESSION XM_809758
Trypanosoma cruzi trichohyalin, putative, ACCESSION XM_809759
Giardia lamblia ATCC 50803 trichohyalin, ACCESSION XM_765825
Giardia lamblia ATCC 50803 trichohyalin, ACCESSION XM_765826
Aspergillus fumigatus Af293, trichohyalin, ACCESSION XM_748643
Aspergillus fumigatus Af293, trichohyalin, ACCESSION XM_748644
O. cuniculus trichohyalin, ACCESSION Z19092
O. cuniculus trichohyalin, ACCESSION Z19093
Pan troglodytes similar to Trichohyalin, ACCESSION XM_526770
Pan troglodytes similar to Trichohyalin, ACCESSION XM_526771
Mus musculus small proline-rich protein 3, ACCESSION NM_011478
Mus musculus small proline-rich protein 3, ACCESSION NM_011479
Homo sapiens small proline-rich protein 2B (SPRR2B), ACCESSION
Homo sapiens small proline-rich protein 2B (SPRR2B), ACCESSION
Mus musculus hair follicle protein AHF, ACCESSION XM_485271
Mus musculus hair follicle protein AHF, ACCESSION XM_485272
Homo sapiens epiplakin 1 (EPPK1), ACCESSION NM_031308
Homo sapiens epiplakin 1 (EPPK1), ACCESSION NM_031308
Mus musculus epiplakin 1, ACCESSION NM_144848 NM_173025
Mus musculus epiplakin 1, ACCESSION NM_144848 NM_173026
Mus musculus structural protein FBF1, ACCESSION AF241249
Mus musculus structural protein FBF1, ACCESSION AF241250
Streptococcus mutans spaP gene for antigen I/II, ACCESSION X17390
Streptococcus mutans spaP gene for antigen I/II, ACCESSION X17391
Homo sapiens trichoplein, BC004285
Homo sapiens trichoplein, BC004285
Homo sapiens Desmoplakin_Accession No. NM_004415 with
Homo sapiens Desmoplakin_Accession No. NM_004415 with amino acid
The following examples are disclosed in order to illustrate preferred embodiments of the present invention. These examples are not to be regarded as being exhaustive or limiting the subject matter of the invention.
In the experimental description, the following abbreviations are used:
(2-amino-2-methylpropanol) AMP, (degrees Celsius)° C., (ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid) EDTA, (hindered amine stabilizer) HAS, (1,1-difluoroethane) HFC 152, (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) INCI, (milliliters) ml, (minutes) min, (oil/water) O/W, (polyethylene glycol) PEG-25, (paraaminobenzoic acid) PABA, (parts per million) ppm, (quantum satis) q.s., (vinylpyrrolidone) VP, (water/oil) W/O, (active ingredient) AI, (polyvinylpyrrolidone) PVP, keratin-binding domain (KBD), keratin-binding domain B of human desmoplakin (KBD-B), keratin-binding domain C of human desmoplakin (KBD-C), keratin-binding domain of human plakophilin (KBD-D)
Various expression vectors were tested for the expression of the keratin-binding domains (KBD). For this, various promoters were used (e.g. IPTG-inducible, rhamnose-inducible, arabinose-inducible, methanol-inducible, constitutive promoters, etc.). Constructs were likewise tested in which the KBD were expressed as fusion proteins (e.g. as fusion with thioredoxin, or eGFP, or YaaD [B. subtilis, SWISS-PROT: P37527, PDiX1], etc.). Here, both the described KBD-B (keratin-binding domain B, SEQ ID No.: 4), and KBD-C (keratin-binding domain C, SEQ ID No.: 10), and the combination of the two domains KBD-BC were expressed using the various expression systems. The vector constructs mentioned are nonlimiting for the claim.
Given by way of representative as an example is the vector map of the IPTG-inducible vector pQE30-KBD-B (
For the expression of the KBD, various production hosts were used, such as, for example, E. coli strains (see Ex. 2; e.g. XL10-Gold [Stratagene], BL21-CodonPlus [Stratagene], and others). However, other bacterial production hosts, such as, for example, Bacillus megaterium or Bacillus subtilis, were also used. In the case of the KBD expression in B. megaterium, the procedure was carried out analogously to: Barg, H., Malten, M. & Jahn, D. (2005). Protein and vitamin production in Bacillus megaterium. In Methods in Biotechnology-Microbial Products and Biotransformations (Barredo, J.-L., ed, 205-224).
The fungal production strains used were Pichia pastoris (see Ex. 3; e.g. GS115 and KM71 [both from Invitrogen]; and others) and Aspergillus nidulans (see Ex. 4; e.g. RMS011 [Stringer, M A, Dean, R A, Sewall, T C, Timberlake, WE (1991) Rodletless, a new Aspergillus developmental mutant induced by direct gene activation. Genes Dev 5:1161-1171] und SRF200 [Karos, M, Fischer, R (1999) Molecular characterization of HymA, an evolutionarily highly conserved and highly expressed protein of Aspergillus nidulans. Mol Genet Genomics 260:510-521], and others). However, it is also possible to use other fungal production hosts, such as, for example, Aspergillus niger (KBD expression analogous to EP 0635574A1 and/or WO 98/46772) for the KBD expression.
For the expression, various production hosts were used, such as, for example, various E. coli strains (e.g. XL10-Gold [Stratagene], BL21-CodonPlus [Stratagene], and others), Bacillus megaterium, Bacillus subtilis etc.
Described here—by way of representation as an example—is the cloning and expression of KBD-B by E. coli, transformed with pQE30-KBD-B:
Cloning of pQE30-KBD-B
50 μl PCR mixture:
Temperature program:
50 μl PCR mixture:
Temperature program;
The KBD-B (SEQ ID No.: 4) expressed by the vector pQE30-KBD-B in E. coli additionally included, on the N-terminus, the amino acids MRGSHHHHHHGSACEL, and, on the C-terminus, the amino acids GVDLQPSLIS (SEQ ID No.: 166).
Expression of KBD-B by pQE30-KBD-B in E. coli
In fermenters the procedure was analogous, although it was possible to carry out induction at much higher OD units and thus to considerably increase the cell and protein yield.
For the KBD expression, various Pichia pastoris strains were used, such as, for example, GS115 and KM71 (Pichia Expression Kit, Version M; Invitrogen Life Technologies).
Described here is—by way of representative as an example—the expression of KBD-B by P. pastoris, transformed with pLib15 (intracellular expression, vector see
For the expression, A. nidulans wild type strains were used, such as, for example, RMS011 or SRF200. Described here is—by way of representation as an example—the expression of KBD-B by A. nidulans, transformed with pLib19 (
Solubly expressed KBD could be used directly following cell disruption (e.g. by means of Menton-Gaulin) or be purified by means of chromatography (see Example 6). Insolubly expressed KBD (e.g. in inclusion bodies) was purified as follows:
The KBD could be purified chromatographically through the attached His tag over an Ni column.
Column material: Ni-Sepharose High Performance
The material was packed into a column (e.g. diameter 2.6 cm, height 10 cm) and equilibrated with buffer A+4% buffer B (corresponds to 20 mM imidazole).
The protein extract (see e.g. cell disruption and inclusion body purification) was applied to the column at pH 7.5 using a Superloop (ÄKTA system) (flow about 5 ml/min).
Following application, washing was carried out with buffer A+20 mM imidazole.
Elution was carried out with buffer B (500 mM imidazole in buffer A).
The eluate was collected in fractions using a fraction collector.
The eluate was then freed from salt (advantageous for samples which are to be concentrated). For this, the eluate was freed from salt, for example, over a Sephadex G25 medium column (Amersham). Then, for the concentration, for example an Amicon chamber (stirred ultrafiltration cell, Millipore) could.
Insolubly expressed keratin-binding domain (e.g. from inclusion bodies) can be renatured and thus activated as follows:
6.5 ml of Cellytic IB (Sigma, order No. C5236) and 5 mM DTT were added to 6.5 ml of KBD-B inclusion bodies in 8 M urea (Ni chelate eluate, HiTrap). The solution to be renatured was then poured into a dialysis tube (Spectrum: Spectra Por MWCO: 12-14 kD).
Carry out dialysis for about 12 hours against 1 L 6 M urea solution at 4° C. with careful stirring.
500 ml of 25 mM Tris/HCl pH=7.50 were added and dialysis was carried out like this for 9 hours at 4° C. Subsequent addition of a further 250 ml of the Tris buffer (see above) and dialysis for a further 12 hours.
500 ml of 25 mM Tris/HCl pH=7.50 were then added again and dialysis was carried out like this for 9 hours at 4° C. Subsequent addition of a further 250 ml of the Tris buffer (see above) and dialysis for a further 12 hours.
500 ml of 25 mM Tris/HCl pH=7.50 were then added again and dialysis was carried out like this for 9 hours at 4° C. The dialysis tube containing the dialyzate was then placed into 2 L: 25 mM Tris+150 mM NaCl pH=7.50. Dialysis was then carried out again at 4° C. for 12 hours.
The contents of the dialysis tube were then removed.
20 ml of KBD-B inclusion bodies in 8 M urea (Ni chelate eluate, HiTrap) were treated with 10 ml of Cellytic IB (Sigma, order No. C5236) and 5 mM DTT. The solution was then poured into a dialysis chamber: Slide-A-Lyzer Dialyses Cassette PIERCE, MWCO: 10 kD. Order No.: 66830.
Dialysis was then carried out for about 1 hour against 1 L 6 M urea solution at 4° C.
Then, over a period of 48 h, 2 l of the following buffer were metered in continuously by means of a peristaltic pump: 25 mM Tris/HCl pH=7.5.
The dialysis tube containing the dialyzate was then added to 2 l of the end buffer.
25 mM Tris+150 mM NaCl pH=7.50 and dialysis was carried out for about 12 hours at 4° C.
The contents of the dialysis tube were then removed.
A visual qualitative test was developed in order to examine whether KBD binds to skin.
Solutions used:
Blocking solution: DIG Wash+Bufferset 1585762 Boehringer MA (10× solution) diluted in TBS.
The first step is the transfer of the outer keratin layer of the skin to a stable support. For this purpose, a transparent adhesive tape is firmly applied to depilated human skin and removed again. The test can be carried out directly on the transparent adhesive strip, or the adhering keratin layer can be transferred to a glass slide through renewed adhesion. Binding was demonstrated as follows:
Incubation with the KBD to be tested (coupled to tag—e.g. His6, HA etc.) or control protein in TBS/0.05% Tween 20 for 2-4 h at room temperature
A quantitative test was developed with which the hair/skin binding strength of the KBD can be compared with nonspecific proteins.
A 5 mm cork borer was used to bore a section out of a thawed dry piece of skin without hair (human or pig) (or in the case of a surface test a section of skin is inserted into a Falcon lid). The sample of skin was then converted to a thickness of 2-3 mm in order to remove any tissue present. The skin sample was then transferred to an Eppendorf vessel (protein low-bind) in order to carry out the binding demonstration (see also
Peroxidase substrate (prepare shortly beforehand):
0.1 ml TMB solution (42 mM TMB in DMSO)
10 ml substrate buffer (0.1 M sodium acetate pH 4.9)
14.7 μl H2O2 3% strength
In order to be able to demonstrate the binding strength of KBD to hair also relative to other proteins, a quantitative assay was developed (see also
5 mg of hair (human) are cut into sections 5 mm in length and transferred to Eppendorf vessels (protein low-bind) in order to carry out the binding demonstration:
Peroxidase substrate (prepare shortly beforehand):
0.1 ml TMB solution (42 mM TMB in DMSO)
+10 ml of substrate buffer (0.1 M sodium acetate pH 4.9)
+14.7 μl H2O2 3% strength
BSA Bovine serum albumin
PBS Phosphate buffered salt solution
Tween 20=polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaureate, n about 20
TMB=3,5,3′,5′-tetramethylbenzidine
A binding test on hair carried out by way of example for KBD-B demonstrated considerable superiority of the binding of KBD-B (SEQ ID No.: 166) to hair compared with significantly poorer binding of the comparison protein YaaD:
For the expression, the E. coli strain XL10 Gold [Stratagene] was used. Described here, by way of representation as an example, is the cloning of KBD-D (SEQ ID No.: 167) and the subsequent expression of the KBD-D protein (SEQ ID No.:168) in E. coli, transformed with pRee024 (
Cloning of pRee024:
The PCR for the amplification of the KBD-D gene was carried out in two steps. Firstly, the 5′ end and 3′ end were amplified independently. These fragments were the matrix for the amplification of the entire KBD-D gene.
The PCR for the amplification of the 5′ end was carried out as follows:
The primers had the following sequence:
100 μl PCR mixture:
Temperature program:
The PCR for the amplification of the 3′ end was carried out as follows:
The primers had the following sequence:
100 μl PCR mixture:
Temperature program:
Temperature program:
after the 10 cycles, 1 μl of primer HRe6 (196 μg/ml) and HRe7 (206 μg/ml) and 1 μl of Pfu Ultra High Fidelity Polymerase were added and the following temperature program was carried out with the reaction:
Temperature program:
Then, 1 μl of Taq polymerase was added and the mixture was incubated for 10 minutes at 72° C.
Subsequently, the KBD-D gene was cloned into the expression vector. For this, a further PCR was carried out with the vector pRee019 as template:
Oligonucleotides used:
100 μl PCR mixture:
Temperature program:
Expression of KBD-D (SEQ ID No.:167) by pRee024 in E. coli
Insolubly expressed KBD-D (SEQ ID No.: 168) (e.g. in inclusion bodies) was purified as follows:
The cell sediment from Example 2 was resuspended in 20 mM phosphate buffer with 100 mM NaCl pH 7.5 and disrupted by ultrasound treatment.
The disrupted cells were centrifuged again (4° C., 12 000 g, 20 minutes). The supernatant was discarded. The sediment was dissolved in buffer A (10 mM NaH2PO4, 2 mM KH2PO4, 100 mM NaCl, 8 M urea, 5 mM DTT). The mixture was then centrifuged again and the supernatant was applied to an Ni chelate sepharose. Following application, washing was carried out with buffer A and 20 mM imidazole. Elution from the column was carried out with buffer B (10 mM NaH2PO4, 2 mM KH2PO4, 100 mM NaCl, 8 M urea, 5 mM DTT, 500 mM imidazole). The eluate was collected in fractions and analyzed by means of SDS-PAGE. Fractions which comprised purified KBD-D were renatured as described in Example 13.
Insolubly expressed keratin-binding domain D (e.g. from inclusion bodies) could be renatured by dialysis and thus activated. The procedure was as follows:
The fractions from Example 12 which comprised purified KBD-D were poured into a dialysis tube (MWCO 12-14 KD).
Dialysis was then carried out for about 1 hour against 1 l of 8 M urea solution.
Then, over a period of 12 hours, 2 l of deionized water were metered in continuously by means of a peristaltic pump.
The contents of the dialysis tube were then removed. The KBD-D activated in this way was used for the following activity tests.
A visual qualitative test was used in order to examine whether the KBD-D (SEQ ID No.: 168) binds to skin.
Solutions used:
Blocking solution: Western Blocking Reagent 1921673 Roche (10× solution) diluted in TBS
The first step is the transfer of the outer keratin layer of the skin to a stable support. For this purpose, a transparent adhesive tape was firmly applied to depilated human skin and removed again. The test can be carried out directly on the transparent adhesive strip, or the adhering keratin layer can be transferred to a glass slide through renewed adhesion. Binding was demonstrated as follows:
A blue colored precipitate, being a reaction of the antipolyhistidine-AP conjugate interacting with the KBD-D, was visible on the transparent adhesive tape treated with KBD-D. As negative control, a transparent adhesive tape was treated only with buffer. No significant blue coloration could be seen here. These results show that KBD-D has bound to the skin keratin on the transparent adhesive tape.
In order to investigate the binding strength of the KBD-D (SEQ ID No.:168) to skin and hair compared to the KBD-B (SEQ ID No.:166), a quantitative test was carried out. In this test, firstly hair was incubated with KBD-B or KBD-D and excess KBD-B or -D was washed off. An antibody-peroxidase conjugate was then coupled via the His tag of the KBD-B or -D. Nonbound antibody-peroxidase conjugate was washed off again. The bound antibody-peroxidase conjugate can convert a colorless substrate (TMB) into a colored product, which was measured photometrically at 405 nm. The intensity of the absorption indicates the amount of bound KBD-B or -D.
The test for binding to skin was carried out with human keratinocytes in microtiter plates as follows.
Peroxidase substrate (prepared shortly beforehand):
0.1 ml of TMB solution (42 mM TMB in DMSO)
+10 ml of substrate buffer (0.1 M sodium acetate pH 4.9)
+14.7 μl of H2O2 3% strength
In order to characterize the hair binding of the KBD-D compared to the KBD-B, the following binding assay was carried out:
5 mg of hair (human) were cut into sections 5 mm in length and transferred to Eppendorf vessels (protein low-bind).
The absorption was measured at 405 nm
Peroxidase substrate (prepared shortly beforehand):
0.1 ml of TMB solution (42 mM TMB in DMSO)
+10 ml of substrate buffer (0.1 M sodium acetate pH 4.9)
+14.7 μl of H2O2 3% strength
BSA=bovine serum albumin
PBS=phosphate buffered salt solution
Tween 20 polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaureate, n about 20
TMB=3,5,3′,5′-tetramethylbenzidine
These results show that the protein KBD-D can bind to hair and more strongly to skin (see Tab. 10). In contrast to the KBD-B (SEQ ID No.: 166), the binding of the KBD-D (SEQ ID No.: 168) is only more weakly influenced by a washing with an up to 10% strength SDS solution (see Tab. 10a).
The synthesis of 2-hydroxyethylmaleimide and further bifunctional maleimides is described, for example, in U. Beyer et al., Monatshefte f. Chemie 128 (1997), 91-102. The synthesis of 2-aminoethylmaleimide is described, for example, in Y. Arano et al., J. Med. Chem. 1996, 39, 3451-3460.
The described synthesis methods can be transferred analogously to other maleimides. Accordingly, maleimidopentanol was prepared according to the following procedure:
Synthesis of maleiamido-N-pentanol
A solution of 50 g of maleic anhydride in 75 ml of THF was added dropwise with cooling at RT within 30 min to 41 g of aminopentanol in 75 ml of THF. When the dropwise addition was complete, crystallization started spontaneously. The suspension was cooled to 2° C., and the resulting crystals were filtered off with suction, washed with a small amount of THF and dried overnight in a vacuum drying cabinet. 78.6 g of white crystals were obtained.
Cyclization to Give maleimido-N-pentanol
7.2 g of Na2SO4 (anhydrous) were added to 5.5 g of maleic acid monoamido-N-pentanol in 600 ml of toluene, and the resulting suspension was heated under reflux for 6 h. The clear solution was decanted off from the yellowish oily-viscous residue and the solvent was removed on the rotary evaporator. The residue was distributed between 50 ml each of ethyl acetate and water and the pH of the aqueous phase was adjusted to 1 using 2N HCl. The aqueous phase was washed a further two times in each case with 50 ml of ethyl acetate, and all of the organic phases were combined, dried over Na2SO4 and the solvent was distilled off on a rotary evaporator. 1 g of the product was obtained as a yellowish oil.
At 0° C., 1.65 g of 2-(4-N,N-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoylbenzoic acid and 0.02 g of N,N-dimethylaminopyridine and 1.05 g of EDC in 10 ml of methylene chloride were added to 1 g of maleimidopentanol (II) in 20 ml of methylene chloride, and the resulting suspension was then stirred for 1 h at 0° C. and for 3 h at RT.
The reaction mixture was washed with 2×20 ml of 2N HCl and with 2×20 ml of water. The organic phase was dried over sodium sulfate and the solvent was distilled off on a rotary evaporator. 2.8 g of a pale brown sticky oil were obtained.
For purification, the residue was taken up in a small amount of ethyl acetate and chromatographed over silica gel (cyclohexane:ethyl acetate 1:1). 1.4 g of the product were obtained as yellow oil with a RF value of 0.36.
At RT, 0.75 g of triethylamine and 1.12 g of stearyl chloride were added to 0.53 g of maleimido-N-ethanol in 50 ml of methylene chloride and the mixture was stirred for 12 h at RT. The resulting solution was washed with 2×25 ml of 1N HCl and 1×25 ml of water. The organic phase was dried over sodium sulfate and the solvent was distilled off on a rotary evaporator; 1.13 g of a yellowish white crystalline solid were obtained.
The effector linker molecules listed in Table 11 below can be prepared according to Examples 16 and 18. All of the other linker molecules according to the formulae 1b and 1c described in this application can also naturally be used instead of maleimidocaproic acid.
The effector linker molecules listed in table 11a below can be prepared according to examples 16 and 18, All of the other linker molecules according to the formulae 1b and 1c described in this application can also naturally be used instead of the maleinimidoalkanol.
For the coupling of 2-(4-N,N-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoic acid (Uvinul A Plus) using maleimido-N-pentanol, cysteines in the KBD-B (SEQ ID No.: 166) were used. Thus, KBD-B (SEQ ID No.: 166) has four cysteines. Of these, two cysteines are on the inside of the structure and are not accessible for the coupling of an effector (identifiable by crystal structure analysis). The two remaining cysteines close to the N-terminus (amino acid positions 14 and 83, see sequence KBD-B (SEQ ID No.: 166)) are on the surface of the protein and are accessible for an effector coupling.
The couplable 2-(4-N,N-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoic acid-maleimido-N-pentanol was coupled on the KBD-B (SEQ ID No.: 166) via at least one of the two free SH groups of a cysteine. This leads to a nucleophilic attack of the cysteine on the double bond of the maleimido-N-pentanol.
The following efficient coupling method has been established: amounts of a 17 mg/ml 2-(4-N,N-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoic acid-maleimido-N-pentanol solution in ethanol were added to a 1-10 mg/ml KBD-B solution (SEQ ID No.: 166) (preferably 1 mg/ml KBD-B) in phosphate buffer (pH 7.4) such that the molar ratio of the KBD-B:2-(4-N,N-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoic acid-maleimido-N-pentanol was about 1:1 to 1:2. The mixture was then carefully shaken for 1 h at room temperature.
The reaction product is also referred to below as KBD-B-Uvinul A Plus.
The success of the effector coupling can be monitored by three different tests:
2-(4-N,N-Diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoic acid (Uvinul A Plus) has an absorption maximum of 360 nm (see
For coupling 2-(4-N,N-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoic acid (Uvinul A Plus) by means of maleimido-N-pentanol, cysteines can also be used in the KBD-D (SEQ ID No.: 168) analogously to the KBD-B. Thus, KBD-D (SEQ ID No.: 168) has 24 cysteines. In addition, cysteine radicals capable of coupling can be introduced in a targeted manner by directed mutagenesis.
The 2-(4-N,N-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoic acid-maleimido-N-pentanol capable of coupling could thus be coupled to the KBD-D (SEQ ID No.: 168) via at least one of the free SH group of a cysteine. The KDB-D-panthenol effector molecule obtained in this way could be used according to examples 23-55 analogously to the KDB-B panthenol effector molecule.
All of the effector linker molecules listed in Tables 12 and 12a can preferably be coupled in an analogous way to the keratin-binding polypeptides with an amino acid sequence according to SEQ ID No.: 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 146, 150, 153, 156, 157, 158, 160, 162 or 164.
In order to check whether KBD-B also binds with coupled Uvinul A Plus to hair, a quantitative binding assay can be carried out (see
Materials Required:
The solutions were and must only be prepared shortly prior to use.
1. In each case 25 μl, 50 μl, 100 μl, 150 μl, 200 μl and 250 μl of cysteine solution were pipetted into test tubes (13×100 mm) for a calibration curve. The protein samples to be determined were poured into separate test tubes (volume<=250 μl) Of the KBD to be tested, an amount of at least 1 mg per reaction mixture was dispensed. In the case of the test tubes, the total volume was then adjusted in each case to 250 μl with Na phosphate buffer. If the volume of 250 μl of sample was exceeded (on account of the required 1 mg of KBD), this was taken into consideration when topping up in point 2 with 2.5 ml of Na phosphate buffer.
2. Addition of in each case 50 μl of Ellmann's reagent and 2.5 ml of Na phosphate buffer. Briefly mix and incubate for 15 min at RT.
3. Measure the absorption at 412 nm
4. Construct the calibration curves, plot and read off the values of the protein samples to be determined.
Dermocosmetic preparations according to the invention
Dermocosmetic preparations according to the invention are described below, comprising the keratin-binding effector molecule KB D-coupled 2-(4-N,N-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoic acid (KBD-Uvinul A Plus), produced according to Example 19. The specified keratin-binding effector molecule is referred in the following examples as keratin-binding domain-Uvinul A Plus. The keratin-binding domain-Uvinul A Plus is specified in the examples below by way of representation of all of the other keratin-binding effector molecules described above. It will be appreciated by the person skilled in the art that all other specified keratin-binding effector molecules according to Example 19 can also be produced and used in the preparations given below.
Preparation: Heat phases A and B separately from one another to about 80° C. Stir Phase B into phase A and homogenize. Stir phase C into the combined phases A and B and homogenize again. Cool with stirring to about 40° C., add phase D, adjust the pH to about 6.5 using phase E, homogenize and cool to room temperature with stirring.
Note: The formulation is prepared without protective gas. Bottling must take place into oxygen-impermeable packagings, e.g. aluminum tubes.
Preparation: Heat phases A and B separately from one another to about 80° C. Stir phase B into phase A and homogenize. Incorporate phase C into the combined phases A and B and homogenize. Cool with stirring to about 40° C. Add phase D, adjust the pH to about 6.5 using phase E and homogenize. Cool to room temperature with stirring.
Preparation: Dissolve phase A. Stir phase B into phase A. Incorporate phase C into the combined phases A and B. Dissolve phase D, stir into the combined phases A, B and C and homogenize. After-stir for 15 min.
Preparation: Weigh in the components of phase A and dissolve until clear.
Preparation: Dissolve phase A until clear. Allow phase B to swell and neutralize with phase C. Stir phase A into the homogenized phase B and homogenize.
Preparation: Mix the components of phase A. Dissolve phase B, incorporate into phase A and homogenize.
Preparation: Mix the components of phase A. Stir phase B into phase A with homogenization. Neutralize with phase C and homogenize again.
Preparation: Heat the components of phases A and B separately from one another to about 80° C. Stir phase B into phase A and homogenize. Heat phase C to about 80° C. and stir into the combined phases A and B with homogenization. Cool to about 40° C. with stirring, add phase D and homogenize again.
Preparation: Heat phase A to about 80° C., stir in phase B and homogenize for 3 min. Likewise heat phase C to 80° C. and stir into the combined phases A and B with homogenization. Cool to about 40° C., stir in phase D and homogenize again.
Preparation: Heat phase A to about 80° C., stir in phase B and homogenize for 3 min. Likewise heat phase C to 80° C. and stir into the combined phases A and B with homogenization. Cool to about 40° C., stir in phase D and homogenize again.
Preparation: Heat the components of phases A and B separately from one another to about 80° C. Stir phase B into phase A with homogenization. Cool to about 40° C. with stirring, add phases C and D and briefly after-homogenize. Cool to room temperature with stirring.
Preparation: Heat phases A and B separately from one another to about 85° C. Stir phase B into phase A and homogenize. Cool to about 40° C. with stirring, add phase C and briefly homogenize again. Cool to room temperature with stirring.
List of formulations for patent keratin-binding domain—haircare
Preparation: Weigh the components of phase A together, stir until everything has dissolved and bottle.
Preparation: Weigh the components of phase A together, stir until everything has dissolved to give a clear solution and bottle.
Preparation: Weigh the components of phase A together, stir until everything has dissolved to give a clear solution and bottle.
Preparation: Mix the components of phase A. Add the components of phase B one after the other and dissolve. Bottle with phase C.
Preparation: Mix the components of phase A. Add the components of phase B one after the other and dissolve. Bottle with phase C.
Preparation: Mix the components of phase A. Dissolve the components of phase B until clear, then stir phase B into phase A. Adjust the pH to 6-7, bottle with phase C.
Preparation: Mix the components of phase A. Add the components of phase B one after the other and dissolve. Dissolve phase C in the mixture of A and B, then adjust the pH to 67. Bottle with phase D.
Preparation: Mix the components of phase A. Add the components of phase B one after the other and dissolve. Dissolve phase C in the mixture of A and B, then adjust the pH to 6-7. Bottle with phase D.
Preparation: Solubilize phase A. Weigh phase B into phase A and dissolve until clear. Adjust the pH to 6-7 bottle with phase C.
Preparation: Solubilize phase A. Weigh phase B into phase A and dissolve until clear. Adjust the pH to 6-7, bottle with phase C.
Preparation: Solubilize phase A. Weigh phase B into phase A and dissolve until clear. Adjust the pH to 6-7, bottle with phase C.
Preparation: Mix the components of phase A. Add the components of phase B one after the other and dissolve. Bottle with phase C.
Preparation: Mix the components of phase A and dissolve. Adjust the pH to 6-7 with citric acid.
Preparation: Mix the components of phase A and dissolve. Adjust the pH to 6-7 with citric acid.
Preparation: Mix the components of phase A and dissolve. Adjust the pH to 6-7 with citric acid.
Preparation: Weigh in the components of phase A and dissolve. Adjust the pH to 6-7. Add phase B and heat to about 50° C. Cool to room temperature with stirring.
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
Preparation: Heat phases A and B separately to about 80° C. Briefly prehomogenize phase B, then stir phase B into phase A and homogenize again. Cool to about 40° C., add phase C and homogenize thoroughly again. Adjust the pH to 6-7 with citric acid.
Preparation: Heat phases A and B separately to about 80° C. Stir phase B into phase A and homogenize. Cool to about 40° C. with stirring, add phase C and homogenize again. Allow to cool to room temperature with stirring.
Preparation: Heat phases A and B separately to about 80° C., Stir phase B into phase A and homogenize. Coot to about 40° C. with stirring, add phases C and D and thoroughly homogenize again. Allow to cool to room temperature with stirring.
Dermocosmetic preparations according to the invention comprising the keratin-binding effector molecule KBD-B prepared according to example 19 (keratin-binding domain according to SEQ ID No.: 166) coupled 2-(4-N,N-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoic acid (KBD-Uvinul A Plus) are described below. The specified keratin-binding effector molecule is referred to in the following examples as keratin-binding domain-Uvinul A Plus. The keratin-binding domain-Uvinul A Plus is specified in the examples below by way of representation of all of the other keratin-binding effector molecules described above. It will be appreciated by the person skilled in the art that all other specified keratin-binding effector molecules according to example 19 can also be prepared and used in the preparations given below.
The specified keratin-binding effector molecule is used as about 5% strength by weight aqueous solution. The following data are parts by weight.
Clear Shampoo
Shampoo
Clear Conditioner Shampoo
Foam O/W Emulsions
Conditioner Shampoo with Pearlescence
Clear Conditioner Shampoo
Clear Conditioner Shampoo with Volume Effect
Gel Cream
OW Sunscreen Formulation
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil
Hydrodispersion
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil
WO Sunscreen Emulsion
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil
Sticks
Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax
Buxux Chinensis (Jojoba) Oil
Ricinus Communis (Castor) Oil
PIT Emulsion
Butyrospermum Parkii
Gel Cream
OW Self-Tanning Formulation
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil
OW Make Up
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil
Self-Tanning Hydrodispersion
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil
After-Sun Hydrodispersion
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil
WO Emulsions
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil
Solids-Stabilized Emulsion
(Pickering Emulsions)
Sticks
Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba)
Buxux Chinensis (Jojoba) Oil
Ricinus Communis (Castor) Oil
Self-Tanning PIT Emulsions
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea
Oil Gel
Buxus Chinensis (Jojoba) Oil
Ricinus Communis (Castor) Oil
In the formulations below, cosmetic sunscreen preparations comprising a combination of at least one inorganic pigment, preferably zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide, keratin-binding domain-Uvinul A Plus and further organic UV-A and UV-B filters are described.
The formulations specified below are prepared in customary ways known to the person skilled in the art.
The content; keratin-binding effector molecule KBD-B prepared according to example 19 (keratin-binding domain according to SEQ ID No.: 166) coupled 2-(4-N,N-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoic acid (KBD-Uvinul A Plus); of keratin-binding domain-Uvinul A plus refers to 100% of active ingredient. The active ingredient according to the invention can either be used in pure form or else in the form of an aqueous solution. In the case of the aqueous solution, the content of water demin. in the particular formulation must be adjusted.
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
Dermocosmetic preparations according to the invention are described below, comprising the keratin-binding effector molecule KBD-D prepared according to example 20 (keratin-binding domain according to SEQ ID No.: ID 168) coupled 2-(4-N,N-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoic acid (KBD-Uvinul A Plus). The specified keratin-binding effector molecule is referred to in the following examples as keratin-binding domain-Uvinul A Plus. The keratin-binding domain-Uvinul A Plus is specified in the examples below by way of representation of all of the other keratin-binding effector molecules described above. It will be appreciated by the person skilled in the art that all other specified keratin-binding effector molecules according to example 20 can also be prepared and used in the preparations given below.
Preparation: Heat phases A and B separately from one another to about 80° C. Stir phase B into phase A and homogenize. Stir phase C into the combined phases A and B and homogenize again. Cool with stirring to about 40° C., add phase D, adjust the pH to about 6.5 using phase E, homogenize and cool to room temperature with stirring.
Note: The formulation is prepared without protective gas. Bottling must take place into oxygen-impermeable packagings, e.g. aluminum tubes.
Preparation: Heat phases A and B separately from one another to about 80° C. Stir phase B into phase A and homogenize. Incorporate phase C into the combined phases A and B and homogenize. Cool with stirring to about 40° C. Add phase D, adjust the pH to about 6.5 using phase E and homogenize. Cool to room temperature with stirring.
Preparation: Dissolve phase A. Stir phase B into phase A. Incorporate phase C into the combined phases A and B. Dissolve phase D, stir into the combined phases A, B and C and homogenize. After-stir for 15 min.
Preparation: Weigh in the components of phase A and dissolve until clear.
Preparation: Dissolve phase A until clear. Allow phase B to swell and neutralize with phase C. Stir phase A into the homogenized phase B and homogenize.
Preparation: Mix the components of phase A. Dissolve phase B, incorporate into phase A and homogenize.
Preparation: Mix the components of phase A. Stir phase B into phase A with homogenization. Neutralize with phase C and homogenize again.
Preparation: Heat the components of phases A and B separately from one another to about 80° C. Stir phase B into phase A and homogenize. Heat phase C to about 80° C. and stir into the combined phases A and B with homogenization. Coot to about 40° C. with stirring add phase D and homogenize again.
Preparation: Heat phase A to about 80° C., stir in phase B and homogenize for 3 min. Likewise heat phase C to 80° C. and stir into the combined phases A and B with homogenization. Cool to about 40° C., stir in phase D and homogenize again.
Preparation: Heat phase A to about 80° C., stir in phase B and homogenize for 3 min. Likewise heat phase C to 80° C. and stir into the combined phases A and B with homogenization. Cool to about 40° C., stir in phase D and homogenize again.
Preparation: Heat the components of phases A and B separately from one another to about 80° C. Stir phase B into phase A with homogenization. Cool to about 40° C. with stirring, add phases C and D and briefly after-homogenize. Cool to room temperature with stirring.
Preparation: Heat phases A and B separately from one another to about 85° C. Stir phase B into phase A and homogenize. Cool to about 40° C. with stirring, add phase C and briefly homogenize again. Cool to room temperature with stirring.
List of formulations for patent keratin-binding domain—haircare
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
Preparation: Heat phases A and B separately to about 80° C. Briefly prehomogenize phase B, then stir phase B into phase A and homogenize again. Cool to about 40° C., add phase C and homogenize thoroughly again. Adjust the pH to 6-7 with citric acid.
Preparation: Heat phases A and B separately to about 80° C. Stir phase B into phase A and homogenize. Cool to about 40° C. with stirring, add phase C and homogenize again. Allow to cool to room temperature with stirring.
Preparation: Heat phases A and B separately to about 80° C. Stir phase B into phase A and homogenize. Cool to about 40° C. with stirring, add phases C and D and thoroughly homogenize again. Allow to cool to room temperature with stirring.
Dermocosmetic preparations according to the invention comprising the keratin-binding effector molecule KBD-D prepared according to example 20 (keratin-binding domain according to SEQ ID No.: 168) coupled 2-(4-N,N-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoic acid (KBD-Uvinul A Plus) are described below. The specified keratin-binding effector molecule is referred to in the following examples as keratin-binding domain-Uvinul A Plus. The keratin-binding domain-Uvinul A Plus is specified in the examples below by way of representation of all of the other keratin-binding effector molecules described above. It will be appreciated by the person skilled in the art that all other specified keratin-binding effector molecules according to example 20 can also be prepared and used in the preparations given below.
The specified keratin-binding effector molecule is used as about 5% strength by weight aqueous solution. The following data are parts by weight.
Gel Cream
OW Sunscreen Formulation
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil
Hydrodispersion
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil
WO Sunscreen Emulsion
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil
Sticks
Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax
Buxux Chinensis (Jojoba) Oil
Ricinus Communis (Castor) Oil
PIT Emulsion
Butyrospermum Parkii
Gel Cream
OW Self-Tanning Formulation
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil
OW Make Up
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil
After-Sun Hydrodispersion
Glycine Soja
WO Emulsions
Butyrospermum Parkii
Glycine Soja
Solids-Stabilized Emulsion
(Pickering Emulsions)
Sticks
Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba)
Buxux Chinensis (Jojoba) Oil
Ricinus Communis (Castor) Oil
Self-Tanning PIT Emulsions
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea
Oil Gel
Buxus Chinensis (Jojoba) Oil
Ricinus Communis (Castor) Oil
In the formulations below, cosmetic sunscreen preparations comprising a combination of at least one inorganic pigment, preferably zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide, keratin-binding domain-Uvinul A Plus and further organic UV-A and UV-B filters are described.
The formulations specified below are prepared in customary ways known to the person skilled in the art.
The content; keratin-binding effector molecule KBD-D prepared according to example 20 (keratin-binding domain according to SEQ ID No.: 168) coupled 2-(4-N,N-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoic acid (KBD-Uvinul A Plus); of keratin-binding domain-Uvinul A plus refers to 100% of active ingredient. The active ingredient according to the invention can either be used in pure form or else in the form of an aqueous solution. In the case of the aqueous solution, the content of water demin. in the particular formulation must be adjusted.
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 05111235.7 | Nov 2005 | EP | regional |
| 06116395.2 | Jun 2006 | EP | regional |
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind | 371c Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP2006/068471 | 11/15/2006 | WO | 00 | 5/23/2008 |
