Patent Application
20060010617
Disclosed herein is a method of dyeing or coloring a human keratin material comprising applying to the keratin material a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one fluorescent compound and at least one optical brightener. Further disclosed herein is a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one fluorescent compound and at least one optical brightener, both of which are soluble in the medium, as well as a device comprising at least two compartments, wherein at least one compartment comprises at least one fluorescent compound and at least one optical brightener and at least one other compartment comprises at least one oxidizing agent.
It is frequently the case that individuals having colored or even dark skin may wish to lighten their skin, and for that purpose, use cosmetic or dermatological compositions which contain bleaching agents.
The substances most commonly used as bleaching agents are hydroquinone and its derivatives, kojic acid and its derivatives, azelaic acid, and arbutin and its derivatives, alone or in combination with other actives.
These agents, however, are not without their drawbacks. For example, it may be necessary to use them for prolonged periods and in large amounts in order to obtain a skin bleaching effect. Moreover, an immediate effect on applying compositions comprising them may not be observed.
Hydroquinone and its derivatives are known for their melanocyte toxicity.
In addition, kojic acid and its derivatives can have the drawback of being expensive and of hence being unsuitable for use in large amounts in products for broad commercial distribution.
There remains, therefore, a need for cosmetic compositions that can allow a lighter complexion to be obtained that may be uniform, homogeneous, and natural in appearance.
In the haircare field, in order to obtain a lighter coloring, it is conventional to employ a chemical bleaching process. This process comprises bleaching the melanins in these fibers using an oxidizing system composed in general of hydrogen peroxide alone or in combination with persalts. This operation may be carried out in the presence or absence of direct dyes and/or of oxidation dyes.
This bleaching system may have the disadvantage of degrading the keratin fibers and adversely affecting their cosmetic properties. For example, the hair may tend to become rough, more difficult to disentangle, and weaker.
It is therefore desirable to be able to have compositions that can allow the hair and other human keratin fibers to be lightened and at the same time colored, aesthetically, without degrading these fibers.
Disclosed herein are thus a method and a composition that allow a human keratin material to be dyed or colored without giving rise to at least one of the difficulties mentioned above.
Accordingly, disclosed herein is a method of dyeing or coloring a human keratin material with a lightening effect, comprising applying to the keratin material a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one fluorescent compound and at least one optical brightener.
Further disclosed herein is a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one fluorescent compound soluble in the medium and at least one optical brightener soluble in the medium.
Further disclosed herein is a device comprising at least two compartments, wherein at least one compartment comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, a composition comprising at least one fluorescent compound and at least one optical brightener and optionally at least one additional ingredient chosen from direct dyes, oxidation bases, and couplers, and at least one other compartment comprises a composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent.
The composition and method disclosed herein may allow the human keratin materials to be dyed or colored and at the same time lightened without detriment to them.
For example, the method disclosed herein may allow a coloration or shade to be obtained for which the reflectance of the keratin materials treated in accordance with the disclosure, measured in a range of from 550 nm to 700 nm, is greater than the reflectance of the untreated materials.
The presently disclosed composition and method may also allow a coloration or shade to be obtained which is lighter than the natural coloring or shade, with a highly satisfactory aesthetic effect.
Furthermore, the existence has been observed of an interaction between the fluorescent compound and the optical brightener in the composition, which may enhance the lightening phenomenon and broaden the range within which it may be perceptible to the eye.
For example, when the composition is applied to a skin whose luminance is, for example, less than or equal to 55, or to keratin fibers whose tone level is, for example, less than or equal to 6, the reflectance of the material treated with the combination of the at least one fluorescent compound and the at least one optical brightener is greater than that of a material treated with the at least one fluorescent compound alone, wherein the reflectance of an untreated material, in a range of from 550 nm to 700 nm, is less than that of materials treated on the one hand with the fluorescent compound and on the other hand with the combination of the fluorescent compound with the optical brightener.
In the case of a composition comprising only the optical brightener, the reflectance of a treated keratin material may be similar to that of an untreated material.
Moreover, the range within which the reflectance of the treated materials is greater than that of untreated materials can be broadened in the case of a composition comprising both the fluorescent compound and the optical brightener relative to that of a composition comprising only the fluorescent compound.
In addition, in the case of compositions applied to keratin fibers, such as the hair, the compounds employed herein may exhibit a high tinctorial affinity for these keratin fibers and good properties of resistance with respect to external agents.
Yet other characteristics and advantages of the present invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow, and also
The keratin materials treated in accordance with the method disclosed herein are human in origin. In the text below, reference will be made to keratin materials in the knowledge that the keratin materials in question are human in origin.
Moreover, the keratin materials may be in the form of fibers or otherwise. Accordingly, the keratin materials may be the skin, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, beard and moustache.
In one embodiment, the keratin material treated is the skin. For example, the skin has a luminance L* in the CIE L*a*b* system, measured using a Minolta CM 2002 calorimeter, of less than or equal to 55, wherein an L* value of zero is equivalent to black and of 100 to white.
The skin types corresponding to this luminance can be Asian skin, African skin, African-American skin, Spanish-American skin, Indian skin and Maghrebian skin.
In another embodiment, the keratin materials treated are in the form of fibers, such as pigmented keratin fibers and artificially colored fibers. For example, these fibers may be hair.
For example, the pigmented or artificially colored hair can have a tone level of less than equal to 6 (dark blond), such as less than or equal to 4 (chestnut brown).
The concept of “tone” is based on the classification of natural shades, with one tone separating each shade from that which immediately precedes it or follows it. This definition and the classification of natural shades are well known to hair professionals and published in the work “Sciences des traitements capillaires” by Charles ZVIAK 1988, Masson, pp. 215 and 278.
As described above, the method disclosed herein comprises applying to a keratin material a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one fluorescent compound and at least one optical brightener for dyeing or coloring the keratin material with a lightening effect.
For greater clarity, the composition used in the method disclosed herein is detailed as follows.
The at least one fluorescent compound forming part of the composition used in the method disclosed herein is, for example, chosen from compounds which absorb light in the visible region of the spectrum, and possibly in the ultraviolet zone, and re-emit a fluorescent light in the visible spectrum whose wavelength is greater than that of the light absorbed. The wavelength of the light re-emitted can range from 500 nm to 700 nm.
In accordance with the method disclosed herein, the at least one fluorescent compound may be in a form which is soluble or insoluble in the medium of the composition at ambient temperature (ranging from 15 to 25° C.).
In one embodiment, the at least one fluorescent compound is chosen from compounds which are soluble in the medium of the composition.
For example, the at least one fluorescent compound is soluble in the medium of the composition at a level of at least 1 g/l, such as at least 5 g/l, at a temperature ranging from 15 to 25° C.
The at least one fluorescent compound which is soluble in the medium can be chosen, for example, from naphthalimides; 2H-1-benzopyran-2-ones (cationic or not) (coumarin compounds); xantheno-quinolizines such as sulforhodamines; aza-xanthenes; naphtholactams; azlactones; oxazines; thiazines; dioxazines; azoic, azomethine, and methine types of polycationic fluorescent dyes.
Among the fluorescent compounds soluble in the medium which can be used in the method disclosed herein, non-limiting mention may be made, for example, of the following:
As far as the fluorescent compounds which are insoluble in the medium and can be used in the method disclosed herein are concerned, non-limiting mention may be made of, for example, inorganic fluorescent compounds such as those based on zinc oxide or zinc sulphide. Among organic fluorescent compounds insoluble in the medium, non-limiting mention may be made of, for example, pigments manufactured from fluorescent dyes, which are dissolved beforehand in a support resin in order to obtain a solid solution, which is subsequently milled to a powder of resin particles exhibiting fluorescent properties. The preparation of such fluorescent pigments is described, for example, in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,851,424 and 3,856,550.
Insoluble fluorescent compounds may also be chosen from colored polyamide, formaldehyde/benzoguanamine, and melamine/formaldehyde/sulphonamide resins, from colored aminotriazine/formaldehyde/sulphonamide cocondensates from metallized polyester flakes, and from mixtures thereof. These fluorescent compounds may also be in the form of aqueous dispersions.
The at least one optical brightener forming part of the composition used in the method disclosed herein may be chosen from compounds which absorb light in the ultraviolet region of the spectrum, such as in the UVA, at a wavelength ranging from 300 nm to 390 nm. These compounds re-emit a fluorescent light in the visible spectrum, ranging from 400 nm to 525 nm.
Among optical brighteners, non-limiting mention may be made, for example, of stilbene derivatives, coumarin derivatives, oxazole and benzoxazole derivatives and imidazole derivatives.
Non-limiting mention may also be made, for example, of the following:
The optical brighteners which can be used herein may also be present in the form of copolymers, for example, acrylates and/or methacrylates, grafted with optical brightener groups as described in application FR 99-10942.
In one embodiment, the at least one optical brightener is chosen such that the wavelength of the light re-emitted by the at least one optical brightener corresponds to the absorption wavelength of the at least one fluorescent compound present.
The at least one optical brightener used herein can be chosen, for example, from diethylaminomethylcoumarin, 4-methyl-7-diethylcoumarin, sodium 4,4′-bis[(4,6-dianilino-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl)amino]stilbene-2,2′-disulphonate, 2,5-thiophenediylbis(5-tert-butyl-1,3-benzoxazole) and disodium 4,4′-distyrylbiphenylsulphonate.
In one embodiment, the at least one optical brightener is chosen from compounds which are soluble in the medium of the composition at a level of at least 0.1 g/l, such as at least 0.5 g/l, at a temperature ranging from 15 to 25° C.
The minimum amounts of the at least one fluorescent compound and the at least one optical brightener in the composition are, for example, such that the reflectance of the treated material, measured in a range from 550 nm to 700 nm, is greater than the reflectance of the untreated keratin material.
For example, the at least one fluorescent compound is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, such as from 0.05 to 10% by weight, further such as from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The at least one optical brightener is present in an amount ranging, for example, from 0.05 to 10% by weight, such as from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The cosmetically acceptable medium comprises water or a mixture of water and at least one organic solvent.
The at least one organic solvent can be chosen, for example, from linear and branched alkanols comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as glycerol, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether and monoethyl ether, and dimethoxyethane; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and phenoxyethanol; ketones comprising from 3 to 4 carbon atoms; and C1-C4 alkyl acetates.
For example, the at least one organic solvent, if present, is present in an amount ranging from 1 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, such as from 5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The pH of the composition used in the method disclosed herein ranges, for example, from 3 to 12, such as from 5 to 11.
The pH may be adjusted to the desired value using at least one agent chosen from commonly used acidifying and alkalifying agents.
Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, for example, of mineral and organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulphuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and lactic acid, and sulphonic acids.
Among the alkalifying agents, mention may be made, for example, of aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide, and the compounds of formula (I):
In a first embodiment, the method disclosed herein comprises applying to keratin fibers, such as the hair, for coloring it while lightening it, a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one fluorescent compound and at least one optical brightener. In this case, the composition comprises at least one fluorescent compound and at least one optical brightener, both of which are soluble in the medium of the composition.
The composition used in this embodiment of the method may further comprise, in addition to the at least one fluorescent compound and the at least one optical brightener, at least one additional direct dye.
For example, the at least one additional direct dye may be chosen from non-ionic, cationic and anionic direct dyes.
The at least one additional direct dye may, for example, be chosen from the following red and orange nitrobenzene dyes:
The composition used in this embodiment may comprise, in addition to or as replacement for these nitrobenzene dyes, at least one additional direct dye chosen from yellow, yellow-green, blue and violet nitrobenzene dyes, azo dyes, anthraquinone, naphthoquinone and benzoquinone dyes, indigoid dyes, and triarylmethane-derived dyes.
These additional direct dyes may, for example, be chosen from basic dyes, among which mention may be made, for example, of the dyes known in the Colour Index, 3rd edition, under the names Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Violet 10, Basic Blue 26 and Basic Blue 99, acid direct dyes, among which mention may be made, for example, of the dyes known in the Colour Index, 3rd edition, under the names Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 24, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 184, Acid Black 2, Acid Violet 43 and Acid Blue 62, and cationic direct dyes such as those described in documents WO 95/01772, WO 95/15144 and EP 714954.
Among the yellow and yellow-green nitrobenzene additional direct dyes mention may be made, for example, of compounds chosen from:
Among blue and violet nitrobenzene additional direct dyes mention may be made, for example, of compounds chosen from:
When present, the at least one additional direct dye is present in an amount ranging, for example, from 0.0005 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition such as from 0.005 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition may further comprise at least one oxidation base.
The at least one oxidation base may be chosen from the oxidation bases conventionally used for oxidation dyeing, such as para-phenylenediamines, bisphenylalkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases and their acid addition salts thereof and base addition salts thereof.
Among the para-phenylenediamines, mention may be made, for example, of para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-(ethyl-β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N—(β,γ-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4′-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine and 4-aminophenyl-1-(3-hydroxypropyl)pyrrolidine, and their acid addition salts thereof and base addition salts thereof.
Among the bisphenylalkylenediamines, mention may be made, for example, of N,N′-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N N′-bis(4′-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol, N,N′-bis(β-hydrroxyethyl)-N,N′-bis(4′-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N′-bis(4-aminophenyl)-tetramethylenediamine, N,N′-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N′-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N′-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N′-bis(ethyl)-N,N′-bis(4′-amino-3′-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine, 1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,5-dioxaoctane, and their acid addition salts thereof and base addition salts thereof.
Among the para-aminophenols, mention may be made, for example, of para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(β-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol, 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, and their acid addition salts thereof and base addition salts thereof.
Among the ortho-aminophenols, mention may be made, for example, of 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol, 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, and their acid addition salts thereof and base addition salts thereof.
Among the heterocyclic bases, mention may be made, for example, of pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives and their acid addition salts thereof and base addition salts thereof.
The at least one oxidation base, if present, is present in an amount ranging, for example, from 0.0005 to 12% by weight of the total weight of the composition such as from 0.0005 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
When it is intended for oxidation dyeing of keratin fibers, such as the hair, the composition may further comprise at least one coupler in order to modify or enrich with glints the shades obtained by using the at least one fluorescent compound, the at least one optical brightener and the at least one oxidation base.
The at least one coupler which can be used may be chosen from couplers used conventionally in this field, among which mention may be made, for example, of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and heterocyclic couplers and their acid addition salts thereof and base addition salts thereof.
The at least one coupler can, for example, be chosen from 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol, 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(β-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, sesamol, α-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[1,5-b]-1,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-1,2,4-triazole, 6-methylpyrazolo[1,5-a]benzimidazole, and their acid addition salts thereof and base addition salts thereof.
When present, the at least one coupler is present in an amount ranging, for example, from 0.0001 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition such as from 0.005 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The acid addition salts that can be used in the context of the compositions disclosed herein for the at least one oxidation base and the at least one coupler are chosen, for example, from hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, tosylates, benzenesulphonates, lactates and acetates.
The base addition salts that can be used in the context of the composition disclosed herein for the at least one oxidation base and the at least one coupler are chosen, for example, from addition salts with at least one base agent chosen from alkali metals, alkaline-earth metals, aqueous ammonia, organic amines, including alkanolamines, and the compounds of formula (I).
When the composition according to the method disclosed herein is intended for coloring keratin fibers such as the hair, it may comprise at least one oxidizing agent chosen, for example, from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromides, persalts such as perborates and persulphates, and enzymes such as two-electron and four-electron oxidoreductases and peroxidases. In one embodiment, the at least one oxidizing agent chosen from hydrogen peroxide and enzymes is used.
If present, the at least one oxidizing agent is present in an amount ranging, for example, from 0.001 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition used in the method disclosed herein may further comprise at least one adjuvant chosen from various adjuvants conventionally used in this type of composition, such as, for example, anionic, cationic and non-ionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, anionic, cationic, non-ionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic polymers and mixtures thereof, mineral and organic thickeners, antioxidants, penetrants, sequestrants, perfumes, buffers, dispersants, conditioning agents such as cations, cationic polymers and amphoteric polymers, modified and non-modified, volatile and non-volatile silicones, film formers, ceramides, preservatives, stabilizers and opacifiers.
Among the thickeners, mention may be made, for example, of thickening systems based on associative polymers, which are well known to the person skilled in the art and are, for example, non-ionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric in nature.
It will be appreciated that the person skilled in the art will take care to select at least one optional complementary ingredient in a manner such that at least one of the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition is not, or not substantially, adversely affected by the intended addition or additions.
The cosmetic composition for coloring keratin fibers, such as the hair, may be present in a variety of forms, such as lotions, shampoos, creams, gels, pastes and any other appropriate form.
In one embodiment, the composition according to the method disclosed herein is in the form of a coloring and lightening shampoo comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, at least one fluorescent compound and at least one optical brightener as defined above, and at least one surfactant. The at least one fluorescent compound and the at least one optical brightener are, for example, soluble in the medium.
The at least one surfactant present in the shampoo may be chosen from anionic, cationic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants.
Among the non-ionic surfactants, mention may be made, for example, of alkylpolyglucosides.
In these shampoos, the at least one surfactant is present in an amount ranging, for example, from 4 to 30%, such as from 8 to 20%, by weight relative to the total weight of the shampoo composition.
In a second embodiment of the present disclosure, the method disclosed herein comprises applying a composition to keratin fibers, such as the hair, for producing on these keratin fibers a temporary or transient coloration with lightening effect that can be removed at the first shampooing or makeup removal. This composition comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one fluorescent compound and at least one optical brightener at least one of which, such as both, are insoluble in the medium of the composition.
In this embodiment, besides the at least one fluorescent compound and the at least one optical brightener, the composition may further comprise at least one non-fluorescent pigment.
The at least one non-fluorescent pigment is chosen, for example, from organic and mineral pigments which are cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable.
The at least one non-fluorescent pigment may be present in powder form or in the form of a pigment paste.
Reference may be made, for example, to document EP 808 150 in regard to the exemplary list of the pigments that can be used.
If present, the at least one non-fluorescent pigment is present, for example, in an amount such that it does not mask the fluorescence effect imparted by the at least one fluorescent compound and by the at least one optical brightener.
For example, the at least one non-fluorescent pigment, if present, is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition such as from 0.05 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The pH of the compositions used in this embodiment ranges, for example, from 6 to 8 such as from 6 to 7.5.
Such compositions may further comprise at least one film-forming polymer which is in a form soluble or dispersed in the cosmetically acceptable medium of the composition.
In order to enhance, if necessary, at least one of the properties of the film formed, the composition may further comprise at least one plasticizer.
These compositions may further comprise at least one adjuvant chosen from various commonly used adjuvants, chosen, for example, from volatile and non-volatile, soluble and insoluble silicones; quaternized and non-quaternized proteins; sunscreen agents; surfactants; antifoams; moisturizers; humectants; emollients; vegetable and synthetic oils; preservatives and sequestrants; antioxidants; perfumes; alkalifying and acidifying agents; pigment suspension agents; and thickeners.
The compositions used in this embodiment may be present in at least one form chosen, for example, from liquids with a greater or lesser degree of thickening, creams and gels.
For example, the composition may be in the form of mascara for the eyelashes or hair mascara, to be applied, for example, by brush or by comb.
In a third embodiment, the method comprises applying to the skin, for dyeing and at the same time lightening the skin, a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one fluorescent compound and at least one optical brightener. In this embodiment, the at least one fluorescent compound is insoluble in the medium for the composition.
In this embodiment, the composition comprises, for example, a fatty phase a fraction of which is not volatile (in other words, does not evaporate at a temperature ranging from 15 to 25° C.). This fatty phase may constitute the continuous phase or disperse phase of the composition.
The non-volatile fraction of the fatty phase may be chosen, for example, from non-volatile oils, waxes, gums, resins and paste-like fats of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.
For example, the non-volatile fraction of the fatty phase is present in an amount ranging, for example, from 1 to 85%, such as from 1% to 30%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
In this embodiment, the compositions may further comprise at least one filler of the kind known as “soft-focus”. The term “filler” means colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, lamellar or non-lamellar particles intended to endow the composition with body or rigidity and/or the makeup with softness, mattness and uniformity. Further, a soft-focus filler is a filler which additionally gives transparency to the complexion and a haze effect. This soft-focus effect is linked to the spectral reflectance of the filler.
The at least one filler may therefore be chosen, for example, from silica (for example SB-700 or SB-150 silica microbeads from Miyoshi), talc (for example P3 talc from Nippon Talc), silica/TiO2 and silica/zinc oxide composites, polyethylene powder, starch powder, nylon powder (for example ORGASOL 2002 Extra D Nat Cos from Atochem), and styrene/acrylic copolymer powders.
For example, the at least one filler has an average particle size of less than or equal to 15 μm, such as less than or equal to 3 μm. In one example, the at least one filler is non-spherical.
Further for example, the at least one filler, if present, is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 20%, such as from 8% to 15%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
In this embodiment, the composition may further comprise at least one additive chosen from additives conventional in the field, such as hydrophilic and lipophilic organic UV filters and mineral filters.
The at least one additive, if present, is present in an amount ranging, for example, from 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Furthermore, this composition may comprise at least one moisturizing agent, chosen, for example, from urea and its derivatives, polyols, such as glycerol and sorbitol, and lipid vesicles, emulsified, for example, by at least one non-ionic surfactant in the composition, such as proteins, tocopherols, amino acids, allantoin, etc.
The pH of this type of composition ranges, for example, from 6.5 to 7.5.
In this embodiment, the composition may be in a form chosen from a cream, a gel and a milk. For example, the composition may be a foundation.
As indicated before, the compositions in the three embodiments, the nature of whose constituents, and their proportions, has been described above, and in any other embodiments disclosed herein, are intended for application to keratin materials.
In one embodiment, the composition is applied without rinsing and then the medium is evaporated or left to evaporate. This method can be used in the case where the keratin material is the skin or if the composition is intended for application to keratin fibers for the purpose of temporarily dyeing them.
In another embodiment, the method disclosed herein comprises:
This method can be useful when the keratin materials treated are fibers such as the hair, moustache, beard and eyebrows.
For example, the cleansing composition can be a shampoo.
The time required for the development of the coloration and for the production of the lightening effect on the keratin fibers can range, for example, from 5 to 60 minutes such as from 5 to 40 minutes.
Moreover, the temperature for the development of the coloration and for the production of the lightening effect on the keratin fibers can range, for example, from the ambient temperature (15 to 25° C.) to 80° C., such as from 15 to 40° C.
In this embodiment, such as in the case of direct coloring or oxidation dyeing, the method disclosed herein comprises
Further disclosed herein is a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one fluorescent compound soluble in the medium and at least one optical brightener soluble in the medium.
For example, the at least one fluorescent compound is chosen from compounds soluble in the medium of the composition at a level of at least 1 g/l, such as at least 5 g/l, at a temperature ranging from 15 to 25° C.
The at least one optical brightener is, for example, chosen from compounds which are soluble in the medium of the composition at a level of at least 0.1 g/l, such as at least 0.5 g/l, at a temperature ranging from 15 to 25° C.
The lists of soluble fluorescent compounds and optical brighteners given above remain valid, and reference may be made thereto.
The amounts of the at least one fluorescent compound and the at least one optical brightener present in the composition, for example, are such that, following application to the keratin material whose tone level is not more than 6, such as not more than 4, the composition can give a reflectance, measured in a range from 550 nm to 700 nm, greater than the reflectance of the untreated keratin material.
For example, the at least one fluorescent compound is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, such as from 0.05 to 10% by weight, further such as from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Furthermore, the at least one of optical brightener is present in an amount ranging, for example, from 0.05 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, such as from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The cosmetically acceptable medium comprises water or a mixture of water and at least one organic solvent.
The at least one organic solvent may be chosen, for example, from linear and branched alkanols comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; polyols and polyol ethers; and aromatic alcohols.
The at least one solvent, if present, is present in an amount ranging, for example, from 1 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, such as from 5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The pH of the composition used herein ranges, for example, from 3 to 12 such as from 5 to 11.
The pH may be adjusted to the desired value using at least one agent chosen from acidifying and alkalifying agents which are commonly used, and of which lists have been indicated above.
The composition disclosed herein may further comprise at least one additional direct dye.
When present, the at least one additional direct dye is present in an amount ranging, for example, from 0.0005 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition such as from 0.005 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition may likewise comprise at least one oxidation base.
If present, the at least one oxidation base is present in an amount ranging, for example, from 0.0005 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition such as from 0.005 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Furthermore, the composition may comprise at least one coupler, so as to modify or enrich with glints the shades obtained using the at least one fluorescent compound, the at least one optical brightener and the at least one oxidation base.
When present, the at least one coupler is present in an amount ranging, for example, from 0.0001 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition such as from 0.005 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
In one embodiment, the composition comprises at least one oxidizing agent.
If present, the at least one oxidizing agent is present in an amount ranging, for example, from 0.001 to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
The composition used in the method disclosed herein may also comprise at least one adjuvant chosen from various adjuvants conventionally used in this type of composition.
As to the nature of the direct dyes, oxidation bases, couplers and other adjuvants of the composition, reference may be made to the lists given in the context of the description of the compositions used in the method disclosed herein.
The cosmetic composition for coloring keratin fibers may be present in a form chosen from, for example, lotions, shampoos, creams, gels, pastes and any other appropriate form.
In one embodiment, the composition is in the form of a coloring and lightening shampoo comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, at least one fluorescent compound and at least one optical brightener, as defined above, and at least one surfactant.
The at least one surfactant present in the shampoo may be chosen from anionic, cationic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants.
Among the non-ionic surfactants, mention may be made, for example, of alkylpolyglucosides.
In these shampoos, the at least one surfactant is present in a an amount ranging from 4 to 30% such as from 8 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the shampoo composition.
Further disclosed herein is a device comprising at least two compartments, wherein at least one compartment comprises a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one fluorescent compound and at least one optical brightener and optionally at least one additional ingredient chosen from direct dyes, oxidation bases and couplers, and at least one other compartment comprises a composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent.
In one embodiment, the composition comprises at least one fluorescent compound and at least one optical brightener both of which are soluble in the medium, as described above.
The device comprising at least two compartments may be equipped with an implement allowing the desired mixture to be delivered to the hair, such as the devices described in document FR 2 586 913.
Examples which do not, however, limit the disclosure are as follows.
The following three direct dyeing compositions were prepared (amounts expressed in grams):
AS* denotes active substance
(a) the fluorescent dye is Photosensitizing Dye NK-557, sold by Ubichem.
The tests were conducted on locks of chestnut brown hair with a tone level of 4.
The composition was applied to chestnut brown hair at 10 grams of composition per gram of hair. The composition was spread out first to cover all of the hair. The composition was left to act for 20 minutes at ambient temperature (from 20 to 25° C.). The hair was subsequently rinsed with water, then washed with a shampoo based on lauryl ether sulphate. It was subsequently dried.
The lightening performance of the compositions in accordance with the invention, expressed as a function of the reflectance of the hair, was compared with the reflectance of a lock of untreated hair and to that obtained with the commercial lightening product “Lumiblonde” (chemical bleaching).
The reflectance was measured by means of a spectrophotocolorimeter apparatus and following irradiation of the hair with visible light in the wavelength ranging from 400 to 700 nm.
It was first observed that the reflectance of a lock of hair treated with a composition according to the invention is greater than that of untreated hair. The treated locks therefore appeared lighter.
It was notable that the reflectance of a lock of hair treated with a composition comprising 0.5 g of an optical brightener is similar to that of a lock of untreated hair. No lightening effect was observed in this case.
Moreover, the combination of the fluorescent compound and the optical brightener gave higher percentage reflectances than those obtained with the fluorescent compound alone, and did so over a wavelength range which is broader than that obtained with the fluorescent compound alone.
Accordingly, the composition comprising a combination of the at least one fluorescent compound and the at least one optical brightener can also make it possible to obtain a more marked, more natural and aesthetic lightening effect than that obtained with the fluorescent compound alone.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 02 16669 | Dec 2002 | FR | national |
This application claims benefit of U.S. Provisional Application No. 60/435,868, filed Dec. 24, 2002.
| Number | Date | Country | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 60435868 | Dec 2002 | US |
