Patent Grant
10632054
The present invention relates to a method of treating hair by soaking in compositions comprising one or more materials useful for treating hair frizz.
Hair frizz is described by consumers as the appearance of unruly fibers at the top of the scalp and tips of hair as well as an increased volume through the bulk of the hair. Generally they see this frizz on days when there is humid weather and the level of moisture in the air is high. The appearance of frizz is undesired and it is often associated with a loss of shine and smoothness. The appearance of frizz and loss of shine and smoothness are associated with a perception of poor hair health. The basic mechanism causing frizz in high humid environments is that at high humidity water penetrates into hair and changes the chemical bond interactions inside the hair. During styling, the consumer will create a ‘wet set’ where hair is blow dried or flat ironed to create the desired shape. During drying, water is evaporated from hair and hydrogen bonds are formed between the protein peptide chains holding the style in place. As moisture diffuses into hair the hydrogen bonds are broken and hair returns back to its natural shape. For consumers who straighten their hair by blow drying or flat ironing this return to a curled style is associated with a loss of alignment and increased volume. In addition, at high moisture levels in hair the fiber diameter increases which also increases the overall volume of hair.
A typical strategy to prevent frizz is to formulate leave-on products with surface-depositing materials such as silicone, oils, conditioning silicone etc. At relatively high concentrations these materials can provide increased cohesive forces holding fibers together to prevent frizz from occurring. With these materials depositing on the hair surface a greasy look and feel is typically experienced, which is an undesired trade-off of frizz reduction.
Consequently, a need exists for a treatment product that combines effective frizz control with additional hair benefits that the consumer can notice and feel and, at the same time, is delightful to use without having a sticky or greasy feel.
The present invention is directed to a method of treating hair by soaking in an aqueous hair composition for hair frizz reduction comprising:
from about 0.15% to about 20.0% of a moisture control material or mixture of moisture control materials wherein the moisture control material has structure selected from the group (Class II):
wherein R is hydrogen or metal ion, R6 is methyl, ethyl, propyl, alkenyl or phenyl having less than 12 carbon atoms and wherein R7, R8, R9, R10, R11, R12 are hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, propyl, phenyl, hydroxyl, methoxy or ethoxy groups;
an alcohol wherein R13 is an alkyl, alkenyl, straight or branched carbon chains and; and wherein R14 is hydrogen, hydroxyl, alkyl, methyl, ethyl and propyl wherein the structure of such alcohol contains less than 20 total carbon atoms;
wherein R15 could be hydrogen, alkyl, alkenyl, phenyl group and wherein the structure of the R13 group contain less than 20 carbon atoms;
The composition may also contain, in addition to at least one Class II material, at least one moisture control material wherein the moisture control material is selected from the following (Class I materials) having the structure:
wherein R′ is —COOY, sulfonic acid, or C═CH—COOY, Y is hydrogen or a metal ion, R1, R2, R3, R4, R5 is hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, propyl, vinyl, allyl, methoxy, ethoxy, hydroxyl, halogen, sulfate, sulfonate, nitro, or —CH═CH—COOR, and wherein the moisture control material is an acidic material and further wherein the moisture control material has a % Protein binding higher than 20 and Molecular Volume lower than 500 and Partition coefficient octanol to water (log P) lower than 3 and hydrogen binding higher than 10 and pKa lower than 5.0; further wherein the pH of the composition comprising the moisture control material from Class I is from about 1 to about 5.
Without being bound by theory, the materials in the soaking composition of the present invention provide excellent frizz performance without negatively affecting hair feel. These materials prevent water uptake into hair under high humidity conditions, reducing the negative impact of frizz. By providing frizz benefits by penetrating the hair fiber as opposed to depositing on the hair surface, the frizz benefit is not associated by negative hair feel, which is typically observed with current commercial anti-frizz products. These and additional features provided by the embodiments of the present invention will be more fully understood in view of the following detailed description.
All percentages and ratios used herein are by weight of the total composition, unless otherwise designated. All measurements are understood to be made at ambient conditions, where “ambient conditions” means conditions at about 25° C., under about one atmosphere of pressure, and at about 50% relative humidity (RH), unless otherwise designated. All numeric ranges are inclusive of narrower ranges; delineated upper and lower range limits are combinable to create further ranges not explicitly delineated.
The compositions of the present invention can comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of, the essential components as well as optional ingredients described herein. As used herein, “consisting essentially of” means that the composition or component may include additional ingredients, but only if the additional ingredients do not materially alter the basic and novel characteristics of the claimed compositions or methods.
“Apply” or “application”, as used in reference to a composition, means to apply or spread the compositions of the present invention onto keratinous tissue such as the hair.
“Dermatologically acceptable” means that the compositions or components described are suitable for use in contact with human skin tissue without undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and the like.
“Safe and effective amount” means an amount of a compound or composition sufficient to significantly induce a positive benefit.
“Soaking”, in reference to compositions of the current invention, means compositions intended to be used for partially or completely immersing consumer hair into them. Soaking hair treatments are to be distinguished from typical hair leave-on and rinse-off treatments, which use products that are applied onto the hair and/or scalp by dispensing the product (a) directly onto the hair and/or scalp or (b) on the consumer hand or hands and then applying onto the hair or scalp. Application of the product for typical leave-on and rinse-off treatments is performed by spraying or spreading, In soaking treatments, the step of immersion of hair into soaking compositions may be followed by at least a washing step with shampoo or not. The soaking step may be followed by rinsing, wiping, or the like. Alternatively, the soaking step may be followed by air-drying, blow drying, hot steam, hot iron or a combination of these without any intermediate rinsing or washing. The Soaking compositions may be substantially free of cleansing or detersive surfactants. For example, “Soaking compositions” may be left on the keratinous tissue for at least 15 minutes. For example, Soaking compositions may comprise less than 1% detersive surfactants, less than 0.5% detersive surfactants, or 0% detersive surfactants. The compositions may, however, contain emulsifying, dispersing or other processing surfactants that are not intended to provide any significant cleansing benefits when applied topically to the hair.
“Leave-on”, in reference to hair care compositions, means compositions intended to be applied onto and allowed to remain on the keratinous tissue. These leave-on compositions are to be distinguished from compositions, which are applied to the hair and subsequently (in a few minutes or less) removed either by washing, rinsing, wiping, or the like. Leave-on compositions exclude rinse-off applications such as shampoos, or rinse-off conditioners. The leave-on compositions may be substantially free of cleansing or detersive surfactants. For example, “leave-on compositions” may be left on the keratinous tissue for at least 15 minutes. For example, leave-on compositions may comprise less than 1% detersive surfactants, less than 0.5% detersive surfactants, or 0% detersive surfactants. The compositions may, however, contain emulsifying, dispersing or other processing surfactants that are not intended to provide any significant cleansing benefits when applied topically to the hair.
“Soluble” means at least about 0.1 g of solute dissolves in 100 ml of solvent, at 25° C. and 1 atm of pressure.
All percentages are by weight of the total composition, unless stated otherwise. All ratios are weight ratios, unless specifically stated otherwise. All ranges are inclusive and combinable. The number of significant digits conveys neither a limitation on the indicated amounts nor on the accuracy of the measurements. The term “molecular weight” or “M.Wt.” as used herein refers to the weight average molecular weight unless otherwise stated. The weight average molecular weight may be measured by gel permeation chromatography. “QS” means sufficient quantity for 100%.
The term “substantially free from” or “substantially free of” as used herein means less than about 1%, or less than about 0.8%, or less than about 0.5%, or less than about 0.3%, or about 0%, by total weight of the composition.
“Hair”, as used herein, means mammalian hair including scalp hair, facial hair and body hair, particularly on hair on the human head and scalp.
“Cosmetically acceptable”, as used herein, means that the compositions, formulations or components described are suitable for use in contact with human keratinous tissue without undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and the like. All compositions described herein which have the purpose of being directly applied to keratinous tissue are limited to those being cosmetically acceptable.
“Derivatives”, as used herein, includes but is not limited to, amide, ether, ester, amino, carboxyl, acetyl, acid, salt and/or alcohol derivatives of a given compound.
“Polymer”, as used herein, means a chemical formed from the polymerisation of two or more monomers. The term “polymer” as used herein shall include all materials made by the polymerisation of monomers as well as natural polymers. Polymers made from only one type of monomer are called homopolymers. Polymers made from two or more different types of monomers are called copolymers. The distribution of the different monomers can be calculated statistically or block-wise—both possibilities are suitable for the present invention. Except if stated otherwise, the term “polymer” used herein includes any type of polymer including homopolymers and copolymers.
The mechanism of action for frizz generation involves moisture from the environment being absorbed by hair and occupying hydrogen bonding sites within hair, including those on the peptide backbone and also associated with acidic and basic side chains of amino acid residues such as lysine, arginine and glutamic acid. This internal water replaces hydrogen bonds that had been created during styling that hold hair in a desired configuration. As a consequence, hair returns to its natural shape which typically leads to unwanted wave, loss of alignment and frizz. In addition, uptake of water by these hydrogen bonding sites swells the hair fiber causing style expansion, which is another indicator of frizz. Without being bound by theory, the materials covered by this invention will replace water at the hydrogen bond sites inside hair and prevent water uptake. Reduction of water inside the hair fibers will lead to a reduction in the appearance of frizz under high humidity conditions. Because the mechanism of action is related to the space inside the hair fibers, there are no feel negatives, such as, for example, greasy or oily feel associated with the benefit. The reduction in water uptake is measured using Dynamic Vapor Sorption (DVS) method, which measures a weight increase of hair equilibrated at 0% Relative Humidity (RH) versus 90% RH. Significant frizz benefit is measured on hair treated by materials that caused a reduction in water uptake of higher than 5% versus control hair that is not treated with such materials. The treatment involves the use of a solution of the material in an appropriate carrier.
Preferred materials include salicylic acid, 2,3-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 2,6-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 3-aminobenzoic acid, gallic acid, ethyl gallate, 5-chlorosalicylic acid, trans-ferulic acid, p-coumaric acid, ricinoleic acid, isovaleric acid, isobutyric acid, 2-hexyl-1-decanol, phytol and sorbitan caprylate. These materials are chosen from Molecular Class I and/or Molecular Class II or can also be used in combination to increase the size of the benefit.
In an embodiment of the present invention, the concentration of the Moisture Control Material or the concentration of the mixture of Moisture Control Material in a hair soaking composition is from about 0.15% to about 20%, in an embodiment from about 0.5% to about 15%, in a further embodiment from about 1.0% to about 10%, and in yet a further embodiment from about 2.0% to about 5.0%.
In an embodiment of the present invention, the temperature of the soaking composition in which the hair is immersed is in the range of 20° C. to 50° C., more preferably in the range of 25° C. to 45° C., even more preferably in the range of 35° C. to 40° C.
In an embodiment of the present invention, the hair of the consumer is placed in an occlusive space after their removal from the soaking solution for 2 minutes to 2 hours; in an embodiment for at least 1 minute, in an embodiment for at least 2 minutes, and in a further embodiment for at least 10 minutes. Optionally, heat is applied to the hair while the hair is placed in the occlusive space. In an embodiment, the hair is heated in the occlusive space at a temperature in a range of about 20° C. to about 35° C. The occlusive space may be formed by at least one coating means. The coating means may be rigid or flexible and may consist of a film, a sheet. The material of the film or the sheet may comprise of a thermoplastic or a thermosetting polymer, a paper, a textile, a metal foil and the like. The occlusive space and the optional application of heat or steam may allow for additional penetration of the Moisture Control Materials inside the hair. This might be also assisted by the reduction of the rate at which the carrier evaporated from the surface of the hair.
In an embodiment of the present invention, the hair is dried after soaking. In an embodiment, the hair is rinsed off with water after soaking. In an embodiment, the hair is washed with a shampoo after soaking.
A Class I having the structure selected from:
wherein R′ is —COOY, sulfonic acid, or C═CH—COOY, Y is hydrogen or a metal ion, R1, R2, R3, R4, R5 is hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, propyl, vinyl, allyl, methoxy, ethoxy, hydroxyl, halogen, sulfate, sulfonate, nitro, or —CH═CH—COOR, and wherein the moisture control material is an acidic material and further wherein the moisture control material has a % Protein binding higher than 20 and Molecular Volume lower than 500 and Partition coefficient octanol to water (log P) lower than 3 and hydrogen binding higher than 10 and pKa lower than 5.0;
wherein R is hydrogen or metal ion, R6 is methyl, ethyl, propyl, alkenyl or phenyl having less than 12 carbon atoms and wherein R7, R8, R9, R10, R11, R12 are hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, propyl, phenyl, hydroxyl, methoxy or ethoxy groups;
an alcohol wherein R13 is an alkyl, alkenyl, straight or branched carbon chains and; and wherein R14 is hydrogen, hydroxyl, alkyl, methyl, ethyl and propyl wherein the structure of such alcohol contains less than 20 total carbon atoms;
wherein R15 could be hydrogen, alkyl, alkenyl, phenyl group and wherein the structure of the R13 group contains less than 20 carbon atoms;
In an embodiment of the present invention, the pH of a composition of the present invention comprising material from Molecular Class I may be in the range of from about 1 to about 5, in another embodiment a pH of from about 2 to about 5, in a further embodiment a pH of from about 3 to about 5.
In an embodiment of the present invention, the pH of a composition of the present invention comprising materials from Molecular Class II may be in the range of from about 1 to about 9, in another embodiment a pH of from about 2 to about 8, and in a further embodiment a pH of from about 3 to about 7.
In an embodiment of the present invention, the Moisture control Material is a carboxylic acid ester. In an embodiment, the carboxylic acid ester is based on a fatty acid wherein the molecule of the fatty acid comprises of more than 14 carbon atoms. Non-limiting examples of such esters are isostearyl isostearate, methyl stearate, methyl palmitate, and methyl oleate. In another embodiment of the present invention, the carboxylic acid ester is part of a mixture of materials prepared via the reaction of natural oils using methanol. Non-limiting examples of such mixture is the mixture that is produced by the product of the reaction of refined palm kernel oil with methanol, followed by fractionation via distillation. A commercial product that meets this description is the Heavy Cut Ester CE-1875 (supplied by P&G Chemicals with CAS Number 6772-38-3) containing ingredients such as methyl stearate, methyl palmitate, methyl oleate as major ingredients, as well as methyl laurate, methyl myristate, methyl behenate and other materials as minor ingredients.
Viscosity of the Composition
The compositions have viscosities of from about 100 cps to about 1000 mPa*s at 1 s-1, as measured at 25.0 deg. C. using an AR2000 viscometer (TA Instruments of New Castle, Del.) using an acrylic 60 mm, 2 deg. flat cone. Viscosity can also be determined by other conventional methods readily known in the art.
The product viscosity (measured via Brookfield rotational viscometer) is less than 1000 cP, and in another embodiment less than about 500 cP, and in another embodiment in the range of about 100-1000 cP.
The viscosity herein is measured on a Brookfield viscometer model #LVDVII+ at 20 deg. C. The spindle used for these measurements is a S31 spindle with the appropriate speed to measure products of different viscosities; e.g., 12 rpm to measure products of viscosity greater than 1000 cP; 30 rpm to measure products with viscosities between 500-1000 cP; 60 rpm to measure products with viscosities less than 500 cP.
The following are non-limiting examples of the present invention. The examples are given solely for the purpose of illustration and are not to be construed as limitations of the present invention, as many variations thereof are possible without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention, which would be recognized by one of ordinary skill in the art.
Soaking Treatment Preparation
The Moisture Control Material is added into a 50:50 ethanol:water solvent at a concentration of 2% w/w and mixed until completely dissolved. The solution pH is adjusted with sodium hydroxide (50% w/w) to a final pH of 4.2. The soaking solution is kept at 40 deg C. for 2 hrs. until a uniform composition is obtained.
Soaking Treatment Protocol:
One hair switch of natural virgin brown hair is placed in 200 ml of this solution for 2 hours in an oven set at 40° C. After the 2-hour period, the hair is removed, air dried and then tested for moisture uptake using DVS. For the control experiment, a natural brown virgin hair switch of the same weight is placed in a 50:50 ethanol:water solvent and treated under identical conditions.
Leave-on Treatment Composition Preparation:
The leave-on treatment compositions are prepared by adding the Moisture Control Materials and perfume, if needed, into a 50:50 ethanol/water carrier and stirred until complete dissolution. The solution pH is adjusted using sodium hydroxide (50% w/w) to a final pH of 4.0-4.2. The Sepigel 305 is then added, if needed, and the solution is mixed using a high-speed-mixer for 2-5 minutes at 1800-2300 rpm until a uniform composition is obtained.
Leave-on Hair Treatment Protocol:
An amount of 0.20 g of each composition of Examples I to IV is spread via a syringe onto separate natural virgin brown hair switches weighing 2.0 g (dosage 0.10 g of solution per g of hair). The hair is allowed to air dry and then analyzed using the DVS method described above. The experiment is repeated for a dosage of 0.50 g of solution per g of hair. The hair in this case is also assessed by expert graders, as described below, in addition to the DVS analysis.
DVS Measurement:
An amount of 25-30 mg of hair with length of approximately 1 cm is weighed and hold for equilibration at 0% RH for 16 hours. After the 16-hour period, the RH is increased to 10% and maintained at this level for 6 hours. Then, the RH is increased by 10% after every 6 hours interval until it reaches 90% RH. The % water reduction is calculated as follows:
A=Amount of water absorbed by the hair treated with composition containing the Moisture Control Material
B=Amount of water absorbed by the hair treated with control composition (only carrier) containing no Moisture Control Material
% Water reduction=[(B−A)×100]/B
Hair Switch Feel Assessment Method: The treated hair switches are kept at high humidity (above 85% RH) for 2 hrs. and then ten expert graders are asked to rate each of them in terms of tactile feel based on a 5 point scale, 5 being the highest (best feel) and 1 being the lowest rating.
Soaking Formulation:
As shown in the table above, the hair treated with the soaking treatment control formulation absorbs higher amount of water than hair treated with Formulas A to G.
Hair soaked in active solution of pH 4.2 for different interval of time from 10 min to 2 hrs at 40 deg C. Hair Switches were air dried and prepared for % water reduction measurement using DVS vs. control (no active). It is found that as soaking time increases, amount of active penetration inside the hair increases, resulting in increase in % water reduction at 90% RH vs. control.
The presence of water immiscible organic solvent in the soaking composition increases the activity and effect of the Moisture Control Material (MCM) on hair frizz. Without being bound by theory, this is achieved because the MCM is present in the organic solvent phase (as more soluble in it) as a higher concentration compared to the aqueous phase. In addition, the organic phase is more likely than the aqueous phase to spread on hair surface and penetrate the hair fiber.
Leave-on Treatment Formulation:
Results: Formula I to XIII showed % water reduction at high humidity. Higher % water reductions are observed in hair treated with higher doses of leave-on Formulas I-XIII
The feel assessment results indicate that combinations of
(a) 5-Chlorosalicylic acid and 2-hexyl-1-decanol;
(b) 5-Chlorosalicylic acid and isostearyl isostearate;
(c) 5-Chlorosalicylic acid and 2-hexyl-1-decanol and isostearyl isostearate
provide, not only water absorption reduction (resulting in frizz benefit), but also tactile feel benefit. This is shown by the feel comparisons of (a) Example XI versus Examples VIII and IX, (b) Example XII versus Examples VIII and X, and (c) Example XIII versus Examples VIII, IX and X.
Additional Evaluations
Additional leave-on treatment compositions are prepared (Tables 1 and 2) according to the procedure described above, which are used to treat hair switches using the procedure described above (amount of 0.10 g of composition per g of hair). The switch is kept at high humidity (above 85%) for 2 hours. Then, ten experts are asked to rate each hair switch in terms of frizz, clean feel, and greasy feel, based on a 5 point scale, 5 being the highest and 1 being the lowest rating. Acceptable values are:
For frizz, less than 2 (lower number corresponds to less frizz);
For no greasy feel less than 3, (lower number corresponds to less greasy feel), and
For clean feel greater than 3 (higher number corresponds to cleaner feel).
Results of Hair Switch Rating from Class I Molecules: Molecules (5-chlorosalicylic acid, salicylic acid, 4-hydroxybenzenesulphonic acid, 2,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid) from Class I provide hair benefits. More specifically, Table 1 shows that hair treatments with 5-chlorosalicyclic acid, salicylic acid, 4-hydroxybenzenesulfonic acid and 2,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid provide frizz protection with clean feel and without greasy feel negative, as opposed to treatment with terminal aminosilicone, which provide some frizz benefit but with greasy feel negative and significantly less clean feel.
Results of Hair Switch Rating from Class II Molecules: Molecules (Isostearyl isostearate, 2-hydroxylethyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, 2-hexyl-1-decanol) from Class II provide hair benefits. More specifically, Table 2 shows that hair treatment with isostearyl isostearate, 2-hydroxyethyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, and 3-hexyl-1-decanol provide frizz protection with clean feel and without greasy feel negative, as opposed to treatment with terminal aminosilicone, which provide some frizz benefit but with greasy feel negative and significantly less clean feel.
Evaluation of Hair Friction
Leave-on formulation containing Moisture Control Material and Silicone oil shows improvement in dry feel compared to untreated hair. This is concluded by measurement of dry hair friction. For this evaluation, natural virgin brown hair switches (4.0 g) are washed with clarifying shampoo, and then treated with leave-on treatment of composition XXIV according to the protocol described above. Before the evaluation, the switches were air dried overnight in a controlled temperature and humidity room (22° C./50% RH). The friction force (grams) between the hair surface and a urethane pad along the hair is measured, with three measurements per switch using an Instron Tester instrument (Instron 5542, Instron, Inc, Canton, Mass., USA).
As Table 3 indicates, treatment of hair with leave-on composition containing Moisture Control material and silicone oil results in reduced hair friction, which indicates improved dry feel.
It is known that organic hydrophobic molecules that are naturally present inside the hair (e.g. as part of Cell Membrane Complex lipids) contribute to its strength and integrity. It is also known that cosmetic treatments, such as oxidative coloring and permanent shaping result in reduction of the concentration of such hydrophobic material from hair. Thus, penetration of hydrophobic materials (e.g. Class II materials) inside the hair can contribute to lipid replenishment, which, at the same time, reduces water uptake to deliver moisture or frizz control benefit. Combination of different Class II materials e.g. benzyl alcohol, 2-hexyl-1-decanol, isostearyl isostearate, have multi-functionality of penetration, getting embedded into lipid of hair and also increasing the penetration of other hydrophobic materials like oleic resulting in further increase hydrophobicity of the hair interior.
Rheology Modifier
In one embodiment, the soaking composition comprises a rheology modifier to increase the substantivity and stability of the composition. Any suitable rheology modifier can be used. In an embodiment, the soaking composition may comprise from about 0.05% to about 10% of a rheology modifier, in a further embodiment, from about 0.1% to about 10% of a rheology modifier, in yet a further embodiment, from about 0.5% to about 2% of a rheology modifier, in a further embodiment, from about 0.7% to about 2% of a rheology modifier, and in a further embodiment from about 1% to about 1.5% of a rheology modifier. In an embodiment, the rheology modifier may be a polyacrylamide thickener. In an embodiment, the rheology modifier may be a polymeric rheology modifier.
In one embodiment, the soaking composition may comprise rheology modifiers that are homopolymers based on acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or other related derivatives, non-limiting examples include polyacrylate, polymethacrylate, polyethylacrylate, and polyacrylamide.
In another embodiment, the rheology modifiers may be alkali swellable and hydrophobically-modified alkali swellable acrylic copolymers or methacrylate copolymers non-limiting examples include acrylic acid/acrylonitrogen copolymer, acrylates/steareth-20 itaconate copolymer, acrylates/ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer, acrylates/aminoacrylates copolymer, acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer. acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate crosspolymer, acrylates/vinylneodecanoate crosspolymer, and acrylates/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer.
In a further embodiment, the rheology modifiers may be crosslinked acrylic polymers, a non-limiting example includes carbomers.
In a further embodiment, the rheology modifiers may be alginic acid-based materials; non-limiting examples include sodium alginate, and alginic acid propylene glycol esters.
In a further embodiment, the rheology modifier may be an associative polymeric thickeners, non-limiting examples include: Hydrophobically modified cellulose derivatives; Hydrophobically modified alkoxylated urethane polymers, non-limiting example include PEG-150/decyl alcohol/SMDI copolymer, PEG-150/stearyl alcohol/SMDI copolymer, polyurethane-39; Hydrophobically modified, alkali swellable emulsions, non-limiting examples include hydrophobically modified polyacrylates, hydrophobically modified polyacrylic acids, and hydrophobically modified polyacrylamides; hydrophobically modified polyethers wherein these materials may have a hydrophobe that can be selected from cetyl, stearyl, oleayl, and combinations thereof, and a hydrophilic portion of repeating ethylene oxide groups with repeat units from 10-300, in another embodiment from 30-200, in a further embodiment from 40-150. Non-limiting examples of this class include PEG-120-methylglucose dioleate, PEG-(40 or 60) sorbitan tetraoleate, PEG-150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate, PEG-150 distearate.
In a further embodiment, the rheology modifier may be cellulose and derivatives; non-limiting examples include microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, nitro cellulose, cellulose sulfate, cellulose powder, and hydrophobically modified celluloses.
In an embodiment, the rheology modifier may be a guar and guar derivatives; non-limiting examples include hydroxypropyl guar, and hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride.
In an embodiment, the rheology modifier may be polyethylene oxide, polypropylene oxide, and POE-PPO copolymers.
In an embodiment, the rheology modifier may be polyvinylpyrrolidone, crosslinked polyvinylpyrrolidone and derivatives. In a further embodiment, the rheology modifier may be polyvinyalcohol and derivatives.
In a further embodiment, the rheology modifier may be polyethyleneimine and derivatives.
In another embodiment, the rheology modifier may be silicas; non-limiting examples include fumed silica, precipitated silica, and silicone-surface treated silica.
In an embodiment, the rheology modifier may be water-swellable clays non-limiting examples include laponite, bentolite, montmorilonite, smectite, and hectonite.
In an embodiment, the rheology modifier may be gums non-limiting examples include xanthan gum, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum, Arabia gum, tragacanth, galactan, carob gum, karaya gum, and locust bean gum.
In a further embodiment, the rheology modifier may be, dibenzylidene sorbitol, karaggenan, pectin, agar, quince seed (Cydonia oblonga Mill), starch (from rice, corn, potato, wheat, etc), starch-derivatives (e.g. carboxymethyl starch, methylhydroxypropyl starch), algae extracts, dextran, succinoglucan, and pulleran,
Non-limiting examples of rheology modifiers include acrylamide/ammonium acrylate copolymer (and) polyisobutene (and) polysorbate 20, acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate 80, acrylates copolymer; acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylates/steareth-20 itaconate copolymer, ammonium polyacrylate/Isohexadecane/PEG-40 castor oil, C12-16 alkyl PEG-2 hydroxypropylhydroxyethyl ethylcellulose (HM-EHEC), carbomer, crosslinked polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), dibenzylidene sorbitol, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose (EHEC), hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (HPMC), hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (HPMC), hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC), methylcellulose (MC), methylhydroxyethyl cellulose (MEHEC), PEG-150/decyl alcohol/SMDI copolymer, PEG-150/stearyl alcohol/SMDI copolymer, polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/laureth-7; polyacrylate 13/polyisobutene/polysorbate 20; polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, polyamide-3; polyquaternium-37 (and) hydrogenated polydecene (and) trideceth-6, polyurethane-39, sodium acrylate/acryloyldimethyltaurate/dimethylacrylamide, crosspolymer (and) isohexadecane (and) polysorbate 60; sodium polyacrylate. Exemplary commercially-available rheology modifiers include ACULYN™ 28, Klucel M CS, Klucel H CS, Klucel G CS, SYLVACLEAR AF1900V, SYLVACLEAR PAl200V, Benecel E10M, Benecel K35M, Optasense RMC70, ACULYN™33, ACULYN™46, ACULYN™22, ACULYN™44, Carbopol Ultrez 20, Carbopol Ultrez 21, Carbopol Ultrez 10, Carbopol Ulterez 30, Carbopol 1342, Sepigel™ 305, Simulgel™600, Sepimax Zen, and combinations thereof.
Carrier
According to another aspect of the present invention, the soaking compositions may further include at least about 20 weight percent of an aqueous carrier. According to one embodiment, the aqueous carrier may be prepared from demineralized or distilled water, for example. In an embodiment of the present invention, the carrier may comprise water, organic solvents (miscible or non-miscible with water), silicone solvents or a mixture thereof. In one embodiment of the present invention, a volatile carrier may include water or a mixture of water and organic solvents. In a further embodiment, the solvents may be dermatologically acceptable. In a further embodiment, the carrier may comprise water with minimal or no significant concentrations of organic solvent, except as otherwise incidentally incorporated into the composition as minor ingredients of other components. In another embodiment, water, organic and silicone solvents that have boiling points below or equal to 250° C. may be volatile solvents and volatile carriers. In one embodiment, solvents with boiling points above 250° C. may be considered non-volatile.
Non-limiting examples of a carrier may include water and solutions or mixtures of water with lower alkyl alcohols and/or polyhydric alcohols. Examples of lower alkyl alcohols are monohydric alcohols having 1 to 6 carbons such as ethanol, methanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, pentanol, and hexanol. Examples of polyhydric alcohols are glycols, such as dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-allyloxy-1,2-propanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 2,2′-thiodiethanol, glycerin and other diols.
Other non-limiting examples of solvent include ethers, such as dipropylene glycol n-butyl ether, sugars, and sugar derivatives.
Penetration of Moisture Control Material Inside the Hair
In an embodiment of the present invention, glycols, such as non-limiting examples of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, increase penetration of 5-chlorosalicylic acid inside hair as it acts as carrier for the actives to penetrate further. As active penetration increases, there is an increase in efficacy of the active, i.e. there is increase in % water reduction as shown below in Table 4. Table 4 shows the amount of 5-chlorosalicylic acid that penetrates inside oxidatively damaged hair after hair treatment with two different compositions. It also shows the % water reduction observed after the treatment versus treatment with control leave-on treatment compositions. These results demonstrate that 5-chlorosalicylic acid penetrates 4 times more in the presence of propylene glycol and there is an increase in % water reduction as measured by DVS of approximate 4 times more than without propylene glycol.
The penetration amount of 5-chlorosalicylic acid is determined using the following protocol. Each hair tress is extracted 3 times with 0.1% TFA (Trifluoroacetic acid) in methanol and the individual extracts were analyzed separately using HPLC method.
In addition to the increase of the penetration amount of the moisture control material, the presence of glycol in the composition prevents the crystallization of part of the moisture control material in the surface of the hair. Such crystallization causes a non-smooth, negative hair feel, which may be perceived by consumers as hair damage or lack of conditioning
Silicones
The conditioning agent of the compositions of the present invention can be a silicone conditioning agent. The silicone conditioning agent may comprise volatile silicone, non-volatile silicone, or combinations thereof. The concentration of the silicone conditioning agent typically ranges from about 0.01% to about 10%, by weight of the composition, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, and/or from about 0.2% to about 3%. Non-limiting examples of suitable silicone conditioning agents, and optional suspending agents for the silicone, are described in U.S. Reissue Pat. No. 34,584, U.S. Pat. No. 5,104,646, and U.S. Pat. No. 5,106,609, which descriptions are incorporated herein by reference. The silicone conditioning agents for use in the compositions of the present invention can have a viscosity, as measured at 25° C., from about 20 to about 2,000,000 centistokes (“csk”), from about 1,000 to about 1,800,000 csk, from about 50,000 to about 1,500,000 csk, and/or from about 100,000 to about 1,500,000 csk.
The dispersed silicone conditioning agent particles typically have a volume average particle diameter ranging from about 0.01 micrometer to about 50 micrometer. For small particle application to hair, the volume average particle diameters typically range from about 0.01 micrometer to about 4 micrometer, from about 0.01 micrometer to about 2 micrometer, from about 0.01 micrometer to about 0.5 micrometer. For larger particle application to hair, the volume average particle diameters typically range from about 5 micrometer to about 125 micrometer, from about 10 micrometer to about 90 micrometer, from about 15 micrometer to about 70 micrometer, and/or from about 20 micrometer to about 50 micrometer.
Additional material on silicones including sections discussing silicone fluids, gums, and resins, as well as manufacture of silicones, are found in Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, vol. 15, 2d ed., pp 204-308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. (1989), incorporated herein by reference.
Silicone emulsions suitable for use in the embodiments of the present invention include, but are not limited to, emulsions of insoluble polysiloxanes prepared in accordance with the descriptions provided in U.S. Pat. No. 4,476,282 and U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2007/0276087. Accordingly, suitable insoluble polysiloxanes include polysiloxanes such as alpha, omega hydroxy-terminated polysiloxanes or alpha, omega alkoxy-terminated polysiloxanes having a molecular weight within the range from about 50,000 to about 500,000 g/mol. The insoluble polysiloxane can have an average molecular weight within the range from about 50,000 to about 500,000 g/mol. For example, the insoluble polysiloxane may have an average molecular weight within the range from about 60,000 to about 400,000; from about 75,000 to about 300,000; from about 100,000 to about 200,000; or the average molecular weight may be about 150,000 g/mol. The insoluble polysiloxane can have an average particle size within the range from about 30 nm to about 10 micron. The average particle size may be within the range from about 40 nm to about 5 micron, from about 50 nm to about 1 micron, from about 75 nm to about 500 nm, or about 100 nm, for example.
The average molecular weight of the insoluble polysiloxane, the viscosity of the silicone emulsion, and the size of the particle comprising the insoluble polysiloxane are determined by methods commonly used by those skilled in the art, such as the methods disclosed in Smith, A. L. The Analytical Chemistry of Silicones, John Wiley & Sons, Inc.: New York, 1991. For example, the viscosity of the silicone emulsion can be measured at 30° C. with a Brookfield viscometer with spindle 6 at 2.5 rpm. The silicone emulsion may further include an additional emulsifier together with the anionic surfactant,
Other classes of silicones suitable for use in compositions of the present invention include but are not limited to: i) silicone fluids, including but not limited to, silicone oils, which are flowable materials having viscosity less than about 1,000,000 csk as measured at 25° C.; ii) aminosilicones, which contain at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine; iii) cationic silicones, which contain at least one quaternary ammonium functional group; iv) silicone gums; which include materials having viscosity greater or equal to 1,000,000 csk as measured at 25° C.; v) silicone resins, which include highly cross-linked polymeric siloxane systems; vi) high refractive index silicones, having refractive index of at least 1.46, and vii) mixtures thereof.
Organic Conditioning Materials
The conditioning agent of the compositions of the present invention may also comprise at least one organic conditioning material such as oil or wax, either alone or in combination with other conditioning agents, such as the silicones described above. The organic material can be non-polymeric, oligomeric or polymeric. It may be in the form of oil or wax and may be added in the formulation neat or in a pre-emulsified form. Some non-limiting examples of organic conditioning materials include, but are not limited to: i) hydrocarbon oils; ii) polyolefins, iii) fatty esters, iv) fluorinated conditioning compounds, v) fatty alcohols, vi) alkyl glucosides and alkyl glucoside derivatives; vii) quaternary ammonium compounds; viii) polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols having a molecular weight of up to about 2,000,000 including those with CTFA names PEG-200, PEG-400, PEG-600, PEG-1000, PEG-2M, PEG-7M, PEG-14M, PEG-45M and mixtures thereof.
Other Optional Ingredients
The compositions of the present invention can also additionally comprise any other suitable optional ingredients as desired. For example, the composition can optionally include other active or inactive ingredients.
In an embodiment of the present invention, a scalp health active may be added to provide scalp benefits. This group of materials is varied and provides a wide range of benefits including anti-dandruff, anti-fungal, anti-microbial, moisturization, barrier improvement, and anti-oxidant, anti-itch, and sensates. Such health actives include but are not limited to: zinc pyrithione, climbazole, octopirox, vitamin E and F, salicylic acid, glycols, glycolic acid, PCA, PEGs, erythritol, glycerin, lactates, hyaluronates, allantoin and other ureas, betaines, sorbitol, glutamates, xylitols, menthol, menthyl lactate, isocyclomone, benzyl alcohol, and natural extracts/oils including peppermint, spearmint, argan, jojoba and aloe. The compositions may include other common hair ingredients. The CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Tenth Edition (published by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, D.C.) (2004) (hereinafter “CTFA”), describes a wide variety of non-limiting materials that can be added to the composition herein. Examples of these ingredient classes include, but are not limited to: aesthetic components such as fragrances, pigments, colorings/colorants, essential oils, sensates, etcantifoaming agents, antimicrobial agents, biological additives, buffering agents, bulking agents, chelating agents, chemical additives, astringents, biocides, film formers or materials, pH adjusters, reducing agents, sequestrants, and surfactants.
In the examples, all concentrations are listed as weight percent, unless otherwise specified and may exclude minor materials such as diluents, filler, and so forth. The listed formulations, therefore, comprise the listed components and any minor materials associated with such components. As is apparent to one of ordinary skill in the art, the selection of these minors will vary depending on the physical and chemical characteristics of the particular ingredients selected to make the hair care composition.
The dimensions and values disclosed herein are not to be understood as being strictly limited to the exact numerical values recited. Instead, unless otherwise specified, each such dimension is intended to mean both the recited value and a functionally equivalent range surrounding that value. For example, a dimension disclosed as “40 mm” is intended to mean “about 40 mm.”
Every document cited herein, including any cross referenced or related patent or application and any patent application or patent to which this application claims priority or benefit thereof, is hereby incorporated herein by reference in its entirety unless expressly excluded or otherwise limited. The citation of any document is not an admission that it is prior art with respect to any invention disclosed or claimed herein or that it alone, or in any combination with any other reference or references, teaches, suggests or discloses any such invention. Further, to the extent that any meaning or definition of a term in this document conflicts with any meaning or definition of the same term in a document incorporated by reference, the meaning or definition assigned to that term in this document shall govern.
While particular embodiments of the present invention have been illustrated and described, it would be obvious to those skilled in the art that various other changes and modifications can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. It is therefore intended to cover in the appended claims all such changes and modifications that are within the scope of this invention.
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