Patent Grant
10351978
The invention relates to a method for producing a knitted footwear element, i.e. a method for knitting a footwear element, in particular a shoe element.
It is known to produce footwear elements, in particular shoes, from knitted parts. These methods require the knitted parts to be produced and then for their dimensions to be adjusted, in particular by cutting, before assembling said parts, for example by stitching or adhesive bonding. This series of steps poses problems. More specifically, they require significant amounts of time in order to be implemented. Moreover, the steps of adjusting the dimensions result in losses of unusable knitted fabric. Finally the seams, in particular the stitched seams, are liable to cause problems of discomfort for the wearer of the shoe.
The object of the invention is to provide a method for producing a knitted footwear element permitting the aforementioned drawbacks to be remedied and the methods known from the prior art to be improved. In particular, the invention proposes a method for producing a knitted footwear element which is simple, rapid and economical and which permits the losses of knitted fabric to be avoided and the comfort of the shoes to be improved for the wearer. In particular, the method makes it possible to avoid having to assemble, in particular to assemble by stitching or adhesive bonding, a tongue and an upper or an upper and a sole. Similarly, the parts of the upper and/or the parts of the sole do not have to be assembled by stitching or adhesive bonding when using such a method.
According to the invention the method comprises the knitting of a footwear element, in particular a shoe element, including:
Preferably, this knitting is carried out continuously. By the term “continuously”, it is preferably understood that the tongue-upper seam is partially knitted or entirely knitted and that the sole-upper seam is partially knitted or entirely knitted.
The knitted upper and the knitted tongue may be joined without stitching and the knitted upper and the knitted sole may be joined without stitching.
The seam or the transition from the knitted sole to the knitted upper may be at least partially, or even entirely, knitted or produced by knitting and the seam or the transition from the tongue to the upper is at least partially, or even entirely, knitted or produced by knitting.
It is possible to knit a first part of the footwear element including a first element of the upper and a first element of the tongue on a first bed of a knitting machine and it is possible to knit a second part of the footwear element including a second element of the upper and a second element of the tongue on a second bed of the knitting machine.
It is possible to knit a first part of the footwear element including a first element of the upper and a first element of the sole on a first bed of a knitting machine and it is possible to knit a second part of the footwear element including a second element of the upper and a second element of the sole on a second bed of the knitting machine.
It is possible to complete the knitting of the footwear element by positioning the needles of the two beds in a specific position, in particular a raised position, permitting the knitting of a yarn to be carried out simultaneously by the needles of the first and second beds.
It is possible to complete the knitting of the footwear element by knitting a thermoplastic yarn.
It is possible to knit at least one area surrounding an opening of the footwear element by successively forming one or more face stitches and one or more reverse stitches, the area including:
The method may comprise a phase during which the upper and the tongue are knitted simultaneously, in particular knit loops of the upper and tongue are formed on the same row of knitting, in particular knit loops of an upper element and a tongue element are formed on a common row of knitting.
The method may comprise a phase during which successively the upper and the sole are knitted, in particular successively the knit loops of the upper are formed, then the knit loops of the sole, in particular successively the knit loops of an upper element are formed, then the knit loops of a sole element and/or the method may comprise a phase during which successively the knit loops of the tongue are knitted, then the knit loops of the upper, in particular successively the knit loops of a tongue element are formed, then the knit loops of an upper element.
According to the invention, a footwear element, in particular a shoe element, is obtained by implementing the method for knitting defined above.
According to the invention, a footwear element, in particular a shoe element, comprises:
The first yarn and the second yarn may be a common yarn.
According to the invention, a footwear element, in particular a shoe element, comprises:
According to the invention, a shoe includes a footwear element as defined above.
The accompanying drawings show by way of example two embodiments of a method for producing a knitted footwear element according to the invention.
An embodiment of a shoe 100 according to the invention is described hereinafter with reference to
An embodiment of a footwear element 101 according to the invention is described hereinafter with reference to
Preferably, at least one (continuous) common yarn makes it possible to knit at least one part of the upper and at least one part of the tongue and at least one (continuous) common yarn makes it possible to knit at least one part of the upper and at least one part of the sole. One common yarn may also permit at least one part of the upper and at least one part of the tongue and at least one part of the sole to be knitted.
A plane P which is at least substantially vertical and at least substantially longitudinal and the outline 113 of this plane P on the footwear element are shown in
Thus, the right-hand part of the footwear element comprises a first element 110d of the upper, a first element 111d of the tongue and a first element 112d of the sole and the left-hand part of the footwear element comprises a second element 110g of the upper, a second element of the tongue 111g and a second element 112g of the sole.
The tongue 111 comprises the first element 111d of the tongue and the second element 111g of the tongue, in particular the tongue is composed of these two elements.
The upper 110 comprises the first element 110d of the upper and the second element 110g of the upper, in particular the upper is composed of these two elements.
The sole 112 comprises the first element 112d of the sole and the second element 112g of the sole, in particular the sole is composed of these two elements.
The footwear element also comprises an opening 114 permitting the wearer to slip on the footwear element. This opening is partially sealed by the tongue 111.
Different areas of the footwear element, whether corresponding or not to the parts cited above, may be knitted with different yarns, in particular yarns of different sizes and/or yarns of different materials and/or yarns of different appearance, in particular different colors.
The footwear element comprises an area 116 in which the stitches are alternately or successively formed on the face and on the reverse. This area extends over the entire tongue or over a part of the tongue and/or over an upper part 115d, 115g of the upper, in particular around the opening or in the region of the opening. In this area, one or more face stitches and one or more reverse stitches are successively knitted. The successions of reverse stitches and face stitches may be produced on each or certain knitted row(s) and/or on each or on certain knitted column(s).
A successive reverse stitch and face stitch or successive reverse stitches and face stitches may also be produced on each or on certain knitted row(s) and/or on each or on certain knitted column(s) in any other location of the footwear element, in particular in any other location of the upper and/or the sole.
To produce the footwear element, naturally it is possible to use any type of knitted structure.
A first embodiment of the method according to the invention permitting a footwear element according to the invention to be produced is described hereinafter with reference to
In a first step, rows of stitches or loops are knitted or formed from the segment extending between the points 201 and 202 to a segment extending between the points 203 and 204. This permits a tongue element 111d to be formed. This element is knitted on a first bed. However, a further complementary tongue element 111g is simultaneously knitted on a second bed, permitting the tongue 111 to be formed integrally. To achieve this, in the region of the segment 202-204, the knitting yarn passes or the knitting yarns pass from one bed to the other to form the tongue in one piece. To achieve this, means and methods are put in place to permit the yarns to change bed. As the size of the segment 201 to 206 is smaller than the size of the segment 202-204, a method for knitting is implemented which permits such a geometry to be obtained. This method is illustrated by the sketch in
In a second step, rows of stitches or loops are knitted or formed from the curve extending between the points 205 and 206 to a curve extending between the points 207 and 210 via 211. However, a further complementary upper element 110g is simultaneously knitted on a second bed, permitting the upper 110 to be formed. To achieve this, in the region of the segment 205-207, the knitting yarn passes or the knitting yarns pass from one bed to the other to form the upper in one piece. To achieve this, means and methods are put in place to permit the yarns to change bed.
The seam following the segment 206-203 is produced by a method of the Intarsia type.
In these two first steps, the loops or stitches are successively formed on the face or reverse on each of the beds. Thus, a knitted area 116 is formed which does not tend to roll back onto itself. To achieve this, preferably the device disclosed in the published document of the international application WO2007/025400 is used.
In a third step, rows of stitches or loops are knitted or formed from the point 207 to the segment extending between the points 208 and 209. However, the other complementary upper element 110g is simultaneously knitted on a second bed, permitting the upper 110 to be formed. To achieve this, in the region of the segment 207-208, the knitting yarn passes or the knitting yarns pass from one bed to the other to form the upper in one piece. To achieve this, means and methods are put in place to permit the yarns to change bed.
In a fourth step, rows of stitches or loops are knitted or formed from the point 211 to the segment extending between the points 209 and 210. However, the other complementary upper element 110g is simultaneously knitted on a second bed, permitting the upper 110 to be formed.
The third and fourth steps may be carried out simultaneously.
In a fifth step, rows of stitches or loops are knitted or formed from the segment extending between the points 208 and 210 to the segment extending between the points 212 and 203. However, the other complementary upper element 110g is simultaneously knitted on a second bed, permitting the upper 110 to be formed. To achieve this, in the region of the segment 208-212 the knitting yarn passes or the knitting yarns pass from one bed to the other to form the upper in one piece. To achieve this, means and methods are put in place to permit the yarns to change bed.
In a sixth step, rows of stitches or loops are knitted or formed from the segment extending between the points 212 and 213 to the segment extending between the points 214 and 215. However, the other complementary upper element 110g is simultaneously knitted on a second bed, permitting the upper 110 to be formed. To achieve this, in the region of the segment 212-214 the knitting yarn passes or the knitting yarns pass from one bed to the other to form the upper in one piece. To achieve this, means and methods are put in place to permit the yarns to change bed.
In a seventh step, rows of stitches or loops are knitted or formed from the segment extending between the points 214 and 215 to the segment extending between the points 215 and 217. This method of knitting is, for example, of the reciprocating knitting type. However, the other complementary upper element 110g and the other sole element 112g are simultaneously knitted on a second bed, permitting the upper 110 and the sole 112 to be formed. To achieve this, in the region of the curve 214-217, the knitting yarn passes or the knitting yarns pass from one bed to the other to form the upper and the sole in one piece. To achieve this, means and methods are put in place to permit the yarns to change bed.
In an eighth step, rows of stitches or loops are knitted or formed from the segment extending between the points 213 and 217 to the segment extending between the points 203 and 218. However, the other complementary upper element 110g and the other sole element 112g are simultaneously knitted on a second bed, permitting the upper 110 and the sole 112 to be formed. In this eighth step, stitches left waiting in the region of the segment 213-203 during the fifth step are reused. In the region of the segment 217-218 the yarn passes from one bed to another. Progressing from left to right, the stitches are left waiting for subsequent use in a fourteenth step.
In a ninth step, rows of stitches or loops are knitted or formed from the segment extending between the points 218 and 203 to the segment extending between the points 219 and 204. However, the other complementary upper element 110g and the other sole element 112g are simultaneously knitted on a second bed, permitting the upper 110 and the sole 112 to be formed. To achieve this, in the region of the segment 218-219, the knitting yarn passes or the knitting yarns pass from one bed to the other to form the upper and the sole in one piece. To achieve this, means and methods are put in place to permit the yarns to change bed. In this ninth step, the stitches left waiting during the first step are reused and the knitting is joined to these stitches in the region of the segment 203-204. Thus, the tongue is joined to this knitted portion of the upper.
In a tenth step, rows of stitches or loops are knitted or formed from the segment extending between the points 219 and 204 to the segment extending between the points 229 and 220. However, the other complementary upper element 110g and the other sole element 112g are simultaneously knitted on a second bed, permitting the upper 110 and the sole 112 to be formed. To achieve this, in the region of the segment 204-220 and of the segment 219-229, the knitting yarn passes or the knitting yarns pass from one bed to the other to form the upper and the sole in one piece. To achieve this, means and methods are put in place to permit the yarns to change bed.
In an eleventh step, rows of stitches or loops are knitted or formed from the segment extending between the points 221 and 220 to the segment extending between the points 224 and 225. In the region of the line 221-224, the width of the knitting in this step is gradually reduced as it moves toward the front end of the footwear element. However, the other complementary upper element 110g is simultaneously knitted on a second bed, permitting the upper 110 to be formed. To achieve this, in the region of the segment 220-225, the knitting yarn passes or the knitting yarns pass from one bed to the other to form the upper in one piece. To achieve this, means and methods are put in place to permit the yarns to change bed.
In a twelfth step, rows of stitches or loops are knitted or formed from the segment extending between the points 224 and 225 to the segment extending between the points 224 and 227. This method of knitting is, for example, of the reciprocating knitting type. However, the other complementary upper element 110g is simultaneously knitted on a second bed, permitting the upper 110 to be formed. To achieve this, in the region of the curve 225-227, the knitting yarn passes or the knitting yarns pass from one bed to the other to form the upper in one piece. To achieve this, means and methods are put in place to permit the yarns to change bed.
In a thirteenth step, rows of stitches or loops are knitted or formed from the segment extending between the points 224 and 227 to the segment extending between the points 221 and 229. In the region of the line 221-224, the width of the knitting in this step is gradually increased as it moves away from the front end of the footwear element. However, the other complementary upper element 110g and the other complementary sole element 112g are simultaneously knitted on a second bed, permitting the upper 110 and the sole to be formed. To achieve this, in the region of the segment 227-229 the knitting yarn passes or the knitting yarns pass from one bed to the other to form the upper in one piece. To achieve this, means and methods are put in place to permit the yarns to change bed. In this thirteenth step, the stitches which are left waiting during the eleventh step are reused and the knitting is joined to these stitches in the region of the segment 221-224.
In a fourteenth step, rows of stitches or loops are knitted or formed from the segment extending between the points 221 and 229 to the point 228. However, the other complementary upper element 110g and the other complementary sole element 112g are simultaneously knitted on a second bed, permitting the upper 110 and the sole to be formed. In the region of the segment 221-228, the stitches are connected to the stitches left waiting at the end of the tenth step. In the region of the segment 221-229, the stitches are connected to the stitches of the preceding step.
Whilst the needles of the two beds are preferably used in their positions illustrated in
In
The footwear element of
A second embodiment of the method according to the invention permitting a footwear element to be produced according to the invention is described hereinafter with reference to
In a first step, rows of stitches or loops are knitted or formed from the segment extending between the points 301 and 302 to a segment extending between the points 303 and 304. This makes it possible to form a tongue element 111d. This element is knitted on a first bed. However, a further complementary tongue element 111g is simultaneously knitted on a second bed, permitting the tongue to be formed integrally 111. To achieve this, in the region of the segment 301-304, the knitting yarn passes or the knitting yarns pass from one bed to the other to form the tongue in one piece. To achieve this, means and methods are put in place to permit the yarns to change bed. As the size of the segment 301 to 304 is greater than the size of the segment 302-303, a method for knitting is used which permits such a geometry to be obtained. This method is illustrated by the sketches of
In a second step, rows of stitches or loops are knitted or formed from the curve extending between the points 305 and 306 to a curve extending between the points 307 and 311 via 310. However, a further complementary upper element 110g is simultaneously knitted on a second bed, permitting the upper 110 to be formed. To achieve this, in the region of the segment 305-307, the knitting yarn passes or the knitting yarns pass from one bed to the other to form the upper in one piece. To achieve this, means and methods are put in place to permit the yarns to change bed.
The seam along the segment 306-303 is produced by a method of the Intarsia type.
In these two first steps, the loops or stitches are formed successively on the face and on the reverse on each of the beds. Thus, a knitted area 116 is formed which does not tend to roll back onto itself. To achieve this, the device described in the published document of the international application WO2007/025400 is preferably used.
In a third step, rows of stitches or loops are knitted or formed from the point 307 to the segment extending between the points 308 and 309. However, the other complementary upper element 110g is simultaneously knitted on a second bed, permitting the upper 110 to be formed. To achieve this, in the region of the segment 307-308, the knitting yarn passes or the knitting yarns pass from one bed to the other to form the upper in one piece. To achieve this, means and methods are put in place to permit the yarns to change bed.
In a fourth step, rows of stitches or loops are knitted or formed from the point 310 to the segment extending between the points 309 and 311. However, the other complementary upper element 110g is simultaneously knitted on a second bed, permitting the upper 110 to be formed.
The third and fourth steps may be implemented simultaneously.
In a fifth step, rows of stitches or loops are knitted or formed from the segment extending between the points 308 and 311 to the segment extending between the points 312 and 303. However, the other complementary upper element 110g is simultaneously knitted on a second bed, permitting the upper 110 to be formed. To achieve this, in the region of the segment 308-312, the knitting yarn passes or the knitting yarns pass from one bed to the other to form the upper in one piece. To achieve this, means and methods are put in place to permit the yarns to change bed.
In a sixth step, rows of stitches or loops are knitted or formed from the point 304 to the segment extending between the points 313 and 314. However, the other complementary upper element 110g is simultaneously knitted on a second bed, permitting the upper 110 to be formed. To achieve this, in the region of the segment 304-314, the knitting yarn passes or the knitting yarns pass from one bed to the other to form the upper in one piece. To achieve this, means and methods are put in place to permit the yarns to change bed. In this step, in the region of the segment 312-304, stitches left waiting at the previous step are reused and the knitting is joined to these stitches. In the region of the segment 303-304, the tongue is joined to the knitting of the upper.
In a seventh step, rows of stitches or loops are knitted or formed from the segment extending between the points 313 and 314 to the segment extending between the points 315 and 316. However, the other complementary upper element 110g is simultaneously knitted on a second bed, permitting the upper 110 to be formed. To achieve this, in the region of the segment 313-315, the knitting yarn passes or the knitting yarns pass from one bed to the other to form the upper in one piece. To achieve this, means and methods are put in place to permit the yarns to change bed.
In an eighth step, rows of stitches or loops are knitted or formed from the segment extending between the points 315 and 314 via the point 316 to the segment extending between the points 317 and 319, via the point 318. However, the other complementary upper element 110g is simultaneously knitted on a second bed, permitting the upper 110 to be formed. To achieve this, in the region of the segments 315-317 and 314-319, the knitting yarn passes or the knitting yarns pass from one bed to the other to form the upper in one piece. To achieve this, means and methods are put in place to permit the yarns to change bed. In this eighth step, the stitches left waiting in the region of the segment 314-316 during the preceding step are reused and the knitting is joined to these stitches.
In a ninth step, rows of stitches or loops are knitted or formed from the point 319 to the segment extending between the points 318 and 320. However, the other complementary upper element 110g is simultaneously knitted on a second bed, permitting the upper 110 to be formed. To achieve this, in the region of the segment 319-320 the knitting yarn passes or the knitting yarns pass from one bed to the other to form the upper and the sole in one piece. To achieve this, means and methods are put in place to permit the yarns to change bed. In this ninth step, the stitches left waiting in the region of the segment 319-318 during the previous step are reused.
In a tenth step, the rows of stitches or loops are knitted or formed from the point 321 to the segment extending between the points 322 and 323. However, the other complementary sole element 112g is simultaneously knitted on a second bed, permitting the sole 112 to be formed. In this tenth step, the stitches left waiting in the region of the segment 317-318-320 during the two preceding steps are reused.
In an eleventh step, rows of stitches or loops are knitted or formed from the segment extending between the points 324 and 323 via the point 322 to the segment extending between the points 325 and 326. However, the other complementary sole element 112g is simultaneously knitted on a second bed, permitting the sole 112 to be formed. To achieve this, in the region of the segment 323-326 and in the region of the curve 324-325, the knitting yarn passes or the knitting yarns pass from one bed to the other to form the sole in one piece. To achieve this, means and methods are put in place to permit the yarns to change bed. In this eleventh step, the stitches left waiting in the region of the segment 317-320 during the ninth step are reused.
Whilst the needles of the two beds are preferably used in their positions illustrated in
The first to the fourteenth steps of the first embodiment and the first to the eleventh steps of the second embodiment are preferably implemented by using yarn made of material, such as for example natural cotton yarn, synthetic yarn, synthetic yarn with an anti-bacterial additive and/or an additive improving the sensation of comfort.
Advantageously, it is understood that the right-hand and left-hand parts of the footwear element are knitted in a symmetrical non-geometric manner so as to take into account the asymmetries of the feet of the wearers. These asymmetries are generated, for example, by using knitted structures such as those shown in
The knitting process advantageously permits patterns and decorative elements to be produced on the footwear element, in particular by using yarns of different colors, or more generally different appearances. The use of a plurality of knitted yarns successively or simultaneously also enables different features to be obtained on the footwear element.
Once the footwear element is made, in order to produce a shoe, a sole 102 may be attached below the footwear element, for example the sole may be attached by stitching and/or adhesive bonding. It is also possible to attach eyelets for laces and a lace 103. The eyelets may also be formed by knitting, in particular by knitting the upper.
To produce the shoe, it is also possible to attach a plastic film to the knitted footwear element.
The method for knitting according to the invention may be implemented by using a device for selectively knitting reverse stitches and face stitches, using needles of a common bed 3 comprising a plurality of parallel guide grooves 4 in which the needles 1, 2 are slidably mounted, each of these guide grooves 4 receiving a double composite needle 1, 2 comprising two hooks 5, 6 which are open at the side and respectively formed through the first ends of two planar shanks, one thereof, the internal shank 1a-1c, being adjacent to the bottom of the guide groove 4 and the other thereof, the external shank 2a-2c, being coplanar and adjacent to the internal shank 1a-1c. The device comprises means 10, 11 for placing the second end of each of said shanks 1a-1c 2a-2c selectively in engagement with two control means 12-15 for knitting a face stitch, respectively a reverse stitch, the terminal portion of the first end of the external shank 2a-2c forming a sliding ramp for a stitch 7 with an acute angle at its portion adjacent to the internal needle 1. Each double needle 1, 2 is associated with two adjacent jacks 18, 19, one 18 to form a loop or to retain a stitch and the other 19 to release said loop, each of these jacks being associated with means 24, 27 for selective engagement with the control means.
The upper end or first end of each needle shank 1, 2 is terminated by a hook 5, respectively 6. In the embodiment shown, the two hooks 5, 6 face one another. When they are located in the relative positions illustrated by
The needle shank 2 has on one of its faces and in the vicinity of its first end, a separator element 9 to separate the yarn loop from the shank of the needle, the purpose thereof being explained below. This separator element 9 is formed by a spring wire fixed at one of its ends, the other end thereof being able to penetrate a hole which passes through the shank of the needle 2.
Each needle shank 1, 2 comprises two parallel parts 1a, 1b, respectively 2a, 2b, connected together by a double bend 1c, respectively 2c. The purpose of this is to create an upper part of the bed which is sufficiently narrow to reduce the spacing between the bed of needles of this bed with the bed of needles of the parallel bed (not shown) in the case of the formation of a tubular knit, in order to obtain a transition which is barely visible between the webs knitted on the two beds.
At their second respective ends, the shanks 1, 2 each have a projection 1d, respectively 2d, an actuator 10, respectively 11, being mounted on each projection in an oscillating manner in the plane of the guide groove 4. Each actuator 10, 11 comprises two arms, each designed to come alternately into engagement with two control cams 12, 13, respectively 14, 15, of the needles 1, 2. These cams 12-15 are fixed to a carriage 17 associated with usual drive means (not shown) to be displaced in a direction perpendicular to the cutting plane of
The knitting device according to the invention further comprises a pair of jacks, one thereof 18 being the principal jack and the other 19 thereof being the auxiliary jack formed by two adjacent plates. Each pair of jacks is associated with each double composite needle 1, 2. The principal jack 18 is adjacent to one of the two large faces of the double needle 1, 2 and passes to the right thereof when the bed 3 is viewed from the side of the needles 1, 2. One of the two large faces of the auxiliary jack 19 is applied against one of the large faces of the principal jack 18. At its front end, the auxiliary jack 19 has a part 19c separated from the adjacent face of the principal jack 18, whilst remaining parallel to this adjacent face. At the same time, the width of the auxiliary jack 19 reduces as it passes toward its front end forming a ramp 19d. At its front end, the auxiliary jack 19 comes back into contact with the adjacent face of the principal jack 18. This parallel part 19c is connected to the plate of the auxiliary jack 19, respectively at its front end, by two parts 19e which are inclined relative to the plane of the plate. This part 19c of the auxiliary jack thus forms a channel designed to permit the passage of the internal needle 1, as will be seen below.
Preferably, in order to implement the invention a knitting device is used on each of two beds of a knitting apparatus, as disclosed above.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
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| 13 51704 | Feb 2013 | FR | national |
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP2014/053641 | 2/25/2014 | WO | 00 |
| Publishing Document | Publishing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| WO2014/131762 | 9/4/2014 | WO | A |
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