The invention relates to the field of manufacturing ornamental parts, in particular in watchmaking, jewellery or telephony, the part being made of a hard material. It more specifically relates to a method for manufacturing a watch part, for example a crown or a middle, with an insert made of a polymer material.
In the watchmaking or jewellery industry, various materials are used to manufacture cases or bracelets with different looks. In particular, timepieces, especially watch cases or bracelet links, are known to be manufactured using hard materials. A hard material is understood to mean a material having a Vickers hardness exceeding 1,000 HV. Examples of such hard materials include ceramic, silicon nitride, zirconium oxide, sapphire, or alumina.
In watchmaking, they are used for their mechanical properties, in particular because they are difficult to scratch. They are used, for example, to manufacture parts such as watch middles or bracelet rings.
Ornamental parts are obtained after an injection step giving the desired shape to the part, then with a sintering step to harden the material.
However, this type of injection method does not provide sufficiently precise dimensions. For example, for links or rings in bracelets, tapped holes are needed in order to be able to screw a screw or a threaded element therein. A watch middle may require a tapped hole, for example to screw in a crown. However, for middles made of a hard material, only a pressing operation can be used to assemble crowns. Holes must also be made for push-pieces, which cannot be obtained with the injection method. In particular, threads or tappings are hard to form in a hard material.
To achieve this, the middle must be machined to form a tapping. However, hard materials are difficult to machine because of the hardness thereof. For this purpose, diamond tools with a short service life are used, which are very expensive.
Producing a part made of a hard material that requires little or no machining of the hard material, especially for ceramic materials, but that comprises functional surfaces, for example, would be advantageous.
The present invention proposes such a method. By using a hard material and an insert made of a polymer material, the method prevents the need for directly machining the hard material. This reduces the cost of manufacturing the part by preventing the need to machine the hard material as much as possible. Moreover, it allows holes to be created to the chosen dimensions, with tapping where necessary.
More specifically, the invention relates to a method for manufacturing a part, for example a watch, jewellery or telephone part, in particular a watch middle, the part comprising, at least partially, a hard material with a Vickers hardness exceeding 1,000 HV.
According to the invention, the method comprises the following main steps:
According to one specific embodiment of the invention, the method comprises a further step of removing the polymer insert in order to obtain a part with a portion having a predetermined shape, this step preceding the sintering step.
According to one specific embodiment of the invention, the method comprises a further step of assembling the part.
According to one specific embodiment of the invention, the method comprises a step of machining the green body.
According to one specific embodiment of the invention, the overmoulding step consists in overmoulding the green body onto an insert partially inserted into the green body in order to create a hole therein.
According to one specific embodiment of the invention, the overmoulding step consists in overmoulding the green body around the insert in order to create a closed cavity therein.
According to one specific embodiment of the invention, the insert includes a thread in order to create a tapping in the green body.
According to one specific embodiment of the invention, the polymer is chosen from the following list: PVB (plasticised Polyvinyl Butyral), CAB (plasticised Cellulose Acetate Butyrate), acrylic resin of the PBMA (Poly Butyl Methacrylate) type.
According to one specific embodiment of the invention, the hard material is chosen from materials such as silicon nitride, zirconium oxide, alumina, cermets, metals or composites of these metals.
The invention further relates to an ornamental part, for example a timepiece, jewellery or telephony part, in particular a watch middle, comprising a body made of a hard material with a Vickers hardness exceeding 1,000 HV, the part being provided with a closed cavity in the thickness of the body.
The invention further relates to a watch case comprising such an ornamental part, as well as a crystal and a bezel for holding the crystal on the part, and a back for closing the watch case.
The invention will be better understood with reference to the accompanying drawing, in which:
The method 1 for manufacturing an ornamental part 10, for example a timepiece, jewellery or telephony part, is shown in
The method 1 comprises a first step 2 of producing a precursor from a mixture of at least one powder material with a binder. In this context, the ceramic-based powder can contain at least a metal oxide, a metal nitride or a metal carbide. By way of example, the ceramic-based powder can contain aluminium oxide or a mixture of aluminium oxide and chromium oxide to form synthetic ruby, zirconium oxide, which can optionally be pigmented, alumina, which can optionally be pigmented, silicon nitride, cermets, metals and composites of these metals. The cermets are, for example, titanium carbide or tungsten carbide. The metals are, for example, tungsten, titanium, 316L stainless steel or steel, preferably nickel-free.
Moreover, the binder is of the organic type.
The method 1 comprises a second step 3 of producing an insert made of a polymer material, the insert having, at least partially, a negative shape of that desired for at least one portion of the part. The insert includes at least one portion having a negative shape of that desired for a portion of the final body made of the hard material. The polymer is, for example, chosen from the following list: PVB (plasticised Polyvinyl Butyral), CAB (plasticised Cellulose Acetate Butyrate), or acrylic resin of the PBMA (Poly Butyl Methacrylate) type.
A third step 4 consists in overmoulding the precursor onto the insert made of a polymer material in order to form a green body. Overmoulding is in particular carried out by injection into a mould. The mould at least partially has the shape of the desired part taking into account a shrinkage rate of the part. The precursor is injected into the mould through a tube, and then via precursor distribution circuits throughout the mould. The precursor thus takes the shape of the mould, for example a watch case middle as in the examples described herein. Alternatively, the injection can also be carried out using a circular tab or channels. The green body takes the shape of the mould and at least partially the shape of the insert onto which it is overmoulded.
In a fourth step 5, the green body is machined to remove unnecessary portions of the green body produced by the injection. For example, tubing or channels formed as a result of distribution circuits or tubes in the injection system are removed. This results in a machined green body.
In a fifth step 6, the polymer insert is removed by thermal debinding. Preferably, the green body overmoulded onto the insert is immersed in an 80° alcohol bath. The alcohol bath dissolves the polymer insert, such that the green body with the desired shape given by the insert is obtained. Alternatively, thermal debinding can be carried out to remove the polymer insert. The body overmoulded onto the insert is thus heated to a high temperature to remove the polymer. The green body is thus stripped of the polymer insert. The insert leaves a positive shape in the green body, such as a tapped hole.
The sixth step 7 aims to sinter said machined green body in order to form a body of the future part in said at least one hard material. Sintering consists in heating the precursor so that the grains of powder agglomerate. During sintering, the green body hardens by shrinking to produce a hard body with a sintering rate. Preferably, according to the invention, the sintering step can include pyrolysis. The body of the part obtained is substantially hardened by this step. Thus, the body of the part has a definitive shape.
A seventh step 8 may also be required to smooth-finish and/or polish the hard material. This improves the aesthetic appearance of the middle.
Finally, in an eighth step 9, the part is assembled with other elements, for example by screwing, thanks to the shape obtained using the method. For example, if the part is a horological watch middle provided with a tapped hole, a button or a crown is assembled with the middle.
In
Another example of an ornamental part produced using the method according to the invention is a bracelet link or ring 30, shown in
One example of a system 40 for carrying out the step of overmoulding the link 30 is shown in
The method according to the invention further allows a green body 50 to be overmoulded around an insert 51 in order to create a closed cavity 52 therein. Closed is understood to mean that the cavity is continuously surrounded by material, i.e. by the material of the body. The insert 51 is completely surrounded by the precursor. The polymer insert is then removed during the removal step in the same way as for a partially overmoulded insert. Such a method allows, for example, a lighter watch middle to be produced, since the middle is partially void of material.
Other parts can be produced using the method described hereinabove. For example, a bezel, a back, a stone or a push-piece of a timepiece can be made, as well as a jewellery bracelet or ring, or a telephone case. All of these parts include a body made of a hard material provided with a hole or a cavity.
Number | Date | Country | Kind |
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20194714.0 | Sep 2020 | EP | regional |
Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
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PCT/EP2021/073582 | 8/26/2021 | WO |