Patent Application
20150111284
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1. Technical Field
The present invention pertains to the fabrics industry, for example, cotton or denim, to be applied in the garment's treatment stage. Specifically, the treatments considered are those aiming at obtaining an artificial aging effect, commonly referred to as “stone wash” treatments in reference to the stone washing system used.
2. Prior Art
In the fabrics treatment industry, methods have long been known for artificially aging brand new fabrics in order to give them a more or less worn-out appearance and to make the cloths lighter and looser.
The first treatments of this type were often based on the combined action of an aqueous bath and abrasive stones which, by rolling them together with fabric in a washing machines' rotating drum, resulted in artificial aging of the fabric. Instead of abrasive stones, typically pumice, or other small-size solid bodies made of abrasive materials, might be used.
In order to make these treatments more effective, bleaching agents including, for instance, sodium hypochlorite, were often added in the bath.
In the procedures described above, the abrasive material, oweing to the bath, exercises its action on both the right side and the reverse side of the garment.
Treatments were later developed, in which the action of small balls of solid material were integrated or even completely replaced by enzymatic products that impregnate the textile substrate, this way performing their action on the complete fabric; examples of such a treatment are described in PTL 0001: U.S. Pat. No. 4,912,056 A (ECOLAB INC [US]). 1990 Mar. 27. or in PTL 0002: WO WO 01/57173 A (BAYER AG [DE]). 2001 Aug. 9.
It is well known that enzymes are highly temperature sensitive. Amilase withstands a maximum temperature of 110° C., Cellulase 90° C. and Laccase 90° C. As a consequence, during their initial application, steam could not be used in treatments involving enzymes.
The action of enzymes depends on size, starches present in raw fabric, and the cellulose fiber of the yarn or on the Indigo colour used in Denim fabrics.
This type of treatment is commonly made in an aqueous bath and subsequently needs a rinsing to remove any traces of enzyme residues.
Usually, a better chemical application can be obtained by passing the fabric through a pad.
It is worth emphasizing that the use of an aqueous bath presents a number of drawbacks, for instance, the need for draining significant quantities of baths contaminated by enzymes, hence dangerous for the environment.
For these reasons and others, dry artificial aging treatments were developed, one of which is described in PTL 0003: IT 1215001 B (CANDIDA S R L [IT]). 1990 Jan. 31, in which porous particles were imbibed with a bleaching agent and subsequently put in contact with garments to be aged, without using any aqueous bath.
As already mentioned before, treatments using an aqueous bath present a number of major drawbacks, which lead to the pursuit of dry solutions, in which “dry” means “soaking without dipping”
In this patent application, “fabric” is the substrate where enzymes act and “garments” are the objects over which the treatment is applied.
The objective of the present invention is to provide a method to artificially age a fabric or more specifically, garments made of fabric, especially made of vegetal fabric, including cotton or denim, while avoiding the drawbacks derived from the need to use an aqueous bath for treatment, and reducing the use of water baths to solely rinsing steps, with a consequent drastic reduction in the quantity of water used.
In a standard treatment, using water baths to apply the enzymes, the used quantity of water is roughly four times the quantity of water required in pursuing the method hereby described.
This objective is achieved by applying an enzyme compound, mixed with water and possibly with other chemical compounds including, for instance, surfactants, by atomization, and by subsequently activating said enzyme compound in a humidity-, time-, and temperature-controlled environment, without using a traditional application bath.
In the present patent application, said controlled environment has been referred to as an “industrial dryer;” however it should be noted that such a choice is made because an industrial dryer is the most popular device among those which can be used to implement the method according to the present patent application. To be exact, it is advisable to reduce or even eliminate the removal of the humidity step usually adopted in industrial dryers, in order to hold a high degree of humidity inside them. Should it not be possible to reduce or eliminate such a removal of humidity, it would be advisable to add water, either alone or mixed with said solution.
A further advantage of the present invention is that a good cleaning of the textile fiber is possible considering contamination derived from the dye, which otherwise, when using an aqueous treatment bath, might disperse.
Followed by the following steps:
Or by the following steps:
Followed by the following steps:
Or by the following steps:
The use of a mixture of enzyme compounds and water (hereafter also referred to as “mixture”) constitutes the basis of the method for artificially aging fabric- or textile-made garments according to the present invention.
The enzyme compounds to be used to prepare the mixture are one or more of the following: Amylase, Cellulase, Laccase.
Note that by “compounds” we mean both the enzyme protein and any other additional components used for its preservation, stabilization, dilution, activation, as well as any other adjuvant.
Also, the enzyme compounds as mentioned above shall be activated by means of heat, and the activation temperature varies as a function of type of enzyme used. In general, it shall be as low as possible, depending on the performances of the mixture, in order to better preserve the degree of humidity.
For reference only, according to the characteristics of the enzyme
products presently available on the market, the optimum temperature is preferably on the order of 45-50° C. for mixtures containing Amylase and Cellulase, whereas a temperature in the order of 55-60° C. is recommended whenever Laccase is used.
Experts in this sector clearly know that Laccase is only used to treat denim fabric, because it is only effective on indigo. It creates a brightening of the dye. Consequently the use of this specific enzyme compound is advantageous both to artificially age the fabric and to simultaneously get a cleaning of the white weft of the denim, and a consequent change in the fabric tone.
In its basic sequence, the method according to the present invention fundamentally comprises the following operating steps.
Atomize a mixture of enzyme compounds and water on the still raw fabric, by spraying them until a textile garment featuring a high degree of humidity is obtained;
Make the fabric turn in an industrial dryer for 40-60 minutes at the activation temperature specified for the enzyme compound used.
According to a preferred solution, which uses Cellulase or Amylase, such an activation might be made at a temperature in the range of 45 to 50° C.; whenever Laccase is used, such a temperature shall be in the range of 55 to 60° C., as an indication.
In this operating step, a rubbing mechanical action shall also take place.
At the end of the cycle, raise the temperature up to at least 90° C. for approximately 20 minutes in order to deactivate the enzyme.
Perform at least one thorough rinse in order to remove any kinds of drosses, residues or other substances present in the fabric.
Dry according to known methods.
In normal conditions, it is often advisable to have the first Application step (10) preceded by a Preparation step (5), consisting of preparing the fabric of the ready-made garments, by one or several preliminary operations including, for instance, manual abrasion, mechanical abrasion, laser abrasion, sandpapering, wearing, emery-polishing, and sandblasting.
Advantageously, according to a preferred embodiment of this invention, in order to improve the visual appearance of artificial aging, and to further deactivate the enzyme, said First Deactivation step (30) might be followed by a Ozone Cleaning and Bleaching step (35) consisting of making the treated fabric pass through an ozone machine.
Such an ozone treatment might take place under operating conditions that best fit such an application and, considering how much the application means differ from each other, it is not possible to previously determine the standard parameters to optimize the ozone action.
Said Ozone Cleaning and Bleaching step (35), even though not mandatory, is recommended in order to better deactivate the enzyme compound and to get a lighter tone in colour, which consequently appear visibly more aged.
To speed up execution of the method, according to the present patent application faster, the Application step (10) and the Activation step (20) can be combined by spraying the mixture of enzymes and water directly inside the dryer. This reduces the process costs, because the application is no longer discontinuous and is simultaneously more homogeneous. In this case, the process includes a first, more abundant dose of mixture, with subsequent additions of water only to compensate for humidity loss, or with subsequent additions of mixture.
In order to enhance the fabric's aging effect and to increase its loosing appearance, small rubber and/or plastic balls or other small abrasive bodies, might be advantageously added inside the industrial dryer.
In this operating step, the introduction of the enzyme mixture and water might be modulated in time, by introducing it in several steps. In this way, the results obtained would be more extended and regular in time, hence more effective.
Mixture dilution, quantity of mixture to apply, and stay time during the
activation step are variable parameters and are a function of the type and characteristics of the fabric to be treated and of the effect to be obtained.
To implement the present invention, experts in this sector should always consider that the fabric would be initially very humid, so as to retain such a condition as long as possible during the Activation step (20).
A constant degree of humidity, i.e. the constant quantity of mixture present on all the fabric treated, is important to assure a homogeneous and uniform action. For this purpose, appropriate precautions should be taken depending on the whole production cycle.
A slight centrifugation might even be adopted before Activation (20), as well as a refilling of mixture during activation. Even though residual humidity is important, it should never be too high. Hence, in no case should liquid drip from the fabric.
In the various steps following the mixture application step, timing issues are, in principle, very important to ensure a homogeneous treatment; in particular, one should consider that after being applied, the product may activate, and also lose its effectiveness. It follows that any dead or irregular times during the production cycle should be minimized, or in any case be kept constant, in order to preserve a more homogeneous result and to avoid ineffectiveness or loss of resistance in the fabric. A user should, in any case, monitor such conditions, along with product deactivation, and consider that the operating times should be carefully monitored, at least until rinsing.
Since the present method is based on the application of an enzyme product, the importance of removing the product from the fabric after its treatment, should be emphasized, as well as the need for strictly adopting necessary precautions for industrial health.
In general, enzyme deactivation factors include: a temperature greater than 90° C., abundant rinsings, and alkaline washing. It may not be the case that only one of these would suffice.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| FI2012A000116 | Jun 2012 | IT | national |
This application is a national stage patent application arising from PCT/IB2013/054741 filed on Jun. 10, 2013, and referenced in WIPO Publication No. WO2013/186687. The earliest priority date claimed is Jun. 11, 2012.
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/IB2013/054741 | 6/10/2013 | WO | 00 |
