Patent Application
20230010484
The present application is in the field of cosmetics and relates to a process for decolorizing keratin material which has been colored by the application of at least one pigment. The decolorant applied in this process is exemplified by its content of at least one salt of a monovalent or divalent cation and by a pH in the range from 1.0 to 4.7. The decolorizing agent is applied to the dyed keratin material and rinsed off again after a reaction time.
A second object of the present application is a process for dyeing and later decolorizing keratin material, in which first a dyeing agent comprising at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer and a pigment is applied to the keratin, and in the subsequent steps the decolorization is carried out by applying the decolorizing agent described above.
A third object of the present application is a multi-component packaging unit which comprises the coloring agent and the decolorizing agent in separately prepared containers.
The change in shape and color of keratin fibers, especially hair, is a key area of modern cosmetics. To change the hair color, the expert knows various coloring systems depending on coloring requirements. Oxidation dyes are usually used for permanent, intensive dyeing with good fastness properties and good grey coverage. Such dyes usually contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components, which form the actual dyes with one another under the influence of oxidizing agents, such as hydrogen peroxide. Oxidation dyes are exemplified by very long-lasting dyeing results.
When direct dyes are used, ready-made dyes diffuse from the colorant into the hair fiber. Compared to oxidative hair dyeing, the dyeing obtained with direct dyes have a shorter shelf life and quicker wash ability. Dyes with direct dyes usually remain on the hair for a period of between 5 and 20 washes.
The use of color pigments is known for short-term color changes on the hair and/or skin. Color pigments are understood to be insoluble, coloring substances. These are present undissolved in the dye formulation in the form of small particles and are only deposited from the outside on the hair fibers and/or the skin surface. Therefore, they can usually be removed again without residue by a few washes with detergents comprising surfactants. Various products of this type are available on the market under the name hair mascara.
If the user wants particularly long-lasting dyeings, the use of oxidative dyes has so far been his only option. However, despite numerous optimization attempts, an unpleasant ammonia or amine odor cannot be completely avoided in oxidative hair dyeing. The hair damage still associated with the use of oxidative dyes also has a negative effect on the user's hair. A continuing challenge is therefore the search for alternative, high-performance dyeing processes. One viable alternative coloring system that has recently come increasingly into focus is based on the use of colored pigments.
Coloring with pigments offers several significant advantages. Since the pigments only attach themselves to the keratin materials, especially the hair fibers, from the outside, the damage associated with the dyeing process is particularly low. In recent work, the problem of low durability of this staining system has been addressed. In this context, it was found that the wash fastness of the color results obtained with pigments could be improved by combining the pigments with certain amino-functionalized silicone polymers.
This disclosure provides a process for decolorizing keratinous material which has been colored by the application of at least one pigment, wherein a decolorizing agent comprises
The following detailed description is merely exemplary in nature and is not intended to limit the disclosure or the application and uses of the subject matter as described herein. Furthermore, there is no intention to be bound by any theory presented in the preceding background or the following detailed description.
By using a suitable decolorizing agent, it is possible to remove these colorations without affecting the user's original hair color. In this way, the user has the option of returning to his original hair color immediately and without much effort. Especially for those consumers who do not want to recolor their hair regularly, this coloring process is therefore particularly attractive.
A well-suited decolorizing agent should be able to remove the colored film formed on the surface of the keratin material by the application of pigments or pigments and amino silicones as far as possible without leaving any residue. If this colored film is only partially or incompletely removed, undesirable color shifts or a blotchy color result are the consequence, which are perceived as highly unattractive by the user.
To increase user comfort, a decolorizing agent should remove the colored films within the shortest possible period, and the keratin material or hair should not be damaged by application of the decolorizing agent.
The object of the present disclosure was therefore to provide a decolorizing agent for decolorizing dyed keratinous fibers, which have previously been dyed by application of at least one pigment, or at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer and a pigment. The decolorization should be as complete as possible, so that the coloration of the keratin material ideally corresponds to the original color. Furthermore, the decolorization should be long-lasting and uniform, and the decolorized keratin fibers should suffer neither shifts in nuance nor irregularities in the color result. In addition, the keratin material should be damaged as little as possible by the decolorizing agent.
Surprisingly, it has now been found that this task can be fully solved when keratinous material previously colored with at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer and with at least one pigment is treated with a decolorizing agent comprising at least one salt of a mono- or divalent cation
and has a pH value in the range from about 1.0 to about 4.7.
A first object of the present disclosure is a process for decolorizing keratin material which has been colored by application of at least one pigment, wherein a decolorizing agent which is
(a) comprises at least one salt of a monovalent or divalent cation, and
(b) has a pH value of about 1.0 to about 4.7,
is applied to the dyed keratin material and rinsed off again after a contact time.
Work leading to the present disclosure has shown that keratin fibers, particularly hair, could be intensely colored by the application of pigments. Particularly intensive staining results were obtained when staining was carried out with a combination of pigment and amino silicone. The pigment or the mixture of pigment and amino silicone was deposited in the form of a colored film on the surface of the keratin fibers. Furthermore, it has been shown that these colorations could be completely decolorized again within a short application period by using the previously described decolorizing agent, without damaging the hair.
Keratinous material includes hair, skin, nails (such as fingernails and/or toenails). Wool, furs and feathers also fall under the definition of keratinous material.
Preferably, keratinous material is understood to be human hair, human skin and human nails, especially fingernails and toenails. Keratinous material is understood to be human hair.
The term “Agent for decolorization” is understood in the context of the present disclosure to mean that a coloration produced on the keratin material by application of at least one pigment, or at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer and a pigment, can be removed again. In this dyeing process, the keratin material or keratin fiber is coated with a dyed film formed from the pigment or pigment and amino silicone. As contemplated herein, the application of the decolorizing agent takes place after the application of the colorant and can remove this colored film from the keratin material again.
Characteristic of the process as contemplated herein is the application of the decolorizing agent to keratin material previously colored by application of at least one pigment, or at least one amino silicone and one pigment.
The decolorizing agent used in the process as contemplated herein showed a particularly strong effect when a combination of pigments with amino silicones was used in the preceding coloration of the keratin material or keratin fibers.
In the context of a very particularly preferred embodiment, a process as contemplated herein is therefore described in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by application of at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer and at least one pigment.
The amino-functionalized silicone polymer may alternatively be referred to as amino silicone or amodimethicone.
Silicone polymers are macromolecules with a molecular weight of at least about 500 g/mol, preferably at least about 1000 g/mol, more preferably at least about 2500 g/mol, particularly preferably at least about 5000 g/mol, which comprise repeating organic units.
The maximum molecular weight of the silicone polymer depends on the degree of polymerization (number of polymerized monomers) and the batch size and is also partly determined by the polymerization method. For the purposes of the present disclosure, it is preferred if the maximum molecular weight of the silicone polymer is not more than about 107 g/mol, preferably not more than about 106 g/mol, and particularly preferably not more than about 105 g/mol.
The silicone polymers comprise many Si—O repeating units, and the Si atoms may carry organic radicals such as alkyl groups or substituted alkyl groups. Alternatively, a silicone polymer is therefore also referred to as polydimethylsiloxane.
Corresponding to the high molecular weight of silicone polymers, these are based on more than about 10 Si—O repeat units, preferably more than about 50 Si—O repeat units, and more preferably more than 100 Si—O repeat units, most preferably more than about 500 Si—O repeat units.
An amino-functionalized silicone polymer is understood to be a functionalized silicone that carries at least one structural unit with an amino group. Preferably, the amino-functionalized silicone polymer carries multiple structural units, each having at least one amino group. An amino group is understood to mean a primary amino group, a secondary amino group and a tertiary amino group. All these amino groups can be protonated in the acidic environment and are then present in their cationic form.
In principle, good dyeing performance could be achieved with amino-functionalized silicone polymers if they carry at least one primary, at least one secondary and/or at least one tertiary amino group. However, intense colorations with the best wash fastness were obtained when an amino-functionalized silicone polymer comprising at least one secondary amino group was used in the agent.
In a very particularly preferred embodiment, a process as contemplated herein is described in that
the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by application of at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer having at least one secondary amino group.
The secondary amino group(s) may be located at various positions on the amino-functionalized silicone polymer. Particularly good color results were obtained when an amino-functionalized silicone polymer was used which has at least one, preferably several, structural units of the formula (Si-Amino).
In the structural units of the formula (Si amino), the abbreviations ALK1 and ALK2 independently stand for a linear or branched, bivalent C1-C20 alkylene group.
In another very particularly preferred embodiment, a process as contemplated herein is described in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by application of at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (Si-Amino),
where
ALK1 and ALK2 independently represent a linear or branched C1-C20 divalent alkylene group.
The positions marked with an asterisk (*) indicate the bond to further structural units of the silicone polymer. For example, the silicon atom adjacent to the star may be bonded to another oxygen atom, and the oxygen atom adjacent to the star may be bonded to another silicon atom or even to a C1-C6 alkyl group.
A bivalent C1-C20 alkylene group can alternatively be referred to as a divalent or divalent C1-C20 alkylene group, by which is meant that each ALK1 or AK2 grouping can form two bonds.
In the case of ALK1, one bond occurs from the silicon atom to the ALK1 grouping, and the second bond is between ALK1 and the secondary amino group.
In the case of ALK2, one bond is from the secondary amino group to the ALK2 grouping, and the second bond is between ALK2 and the primary amino group.
Examples of a linear bivalent C1-C20 alkylene group include the methylene group (—CH2—), the ethylene group (—CH2—CH2—), the propylene group (—CH2—CH2—CH2—), and the butylene group (—CH2—CH2—CH2—CH2—). The propylene group (—CH2—CH2—CH2—) is particularly preferred. From a chain length of 3 C atoms, bivalent alkylene groups can also be branched. Examples of branched divalent, bivalent C3-C20 alkylene groups are (—CH2—CH(CH3)—) and (—CH2—CH(CH3)—CH2—).
In another particularly preferred embodiment, the structural units of the formula (Si amino) represent repeat units in the amino-functionalized silicone polymer, such that the silicone polymer comprises multiple structural units of the formula (Si amino).
Particularly well-suited amino-functionalized silicone polymers with at least one secondary amino group are listed below.
Dyeings with the best wash fastnesses could be obtained if, during the preceding dyeing, at least one agent comprising at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer comprising structural units of formula (Si-I) and formula (Si-II) was applied to the keratinous material
In a further explicitly very particularly preferred embodiment, a process as contemplated herein is described in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by application of at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer which comprises structural units of the formula (Si-I) and of the formula (Si-II)
A corresponding amino functionalized silicone polymer with the structural units (Si-I) and (Si-II) is, for example, the commercial product DC 2-8566 or Dowsil 2-8566 Amino Fluid, which is commercially distributed by the Dow Chemical Company and bears the designation “Siloxanes and Silicones, 3-[(2-aminoethyl)amino]-2-methylpropyl Me, Di-Me-Siloxane” and the CAS number 106842-44-8. Another particularly preferred commercial product is Dowsil AP-8658 Amino Fluid, which is also sold commercially by the Dow Chemical Company.
In another preferred embodiment, the decolorizing agent may also be applied to keratin material previously colored by the application of a colorant comprising at least one amino-functional silicone polymer of the formula of formula (Si-III),
where
Further processes preferred as contemplated herein are exemplified by the prior application of a colorant to the keratinous material, the colorant comprising at least amino-functional silicone polymer of the formula of formula (Si-IV),
located in the
The silicones of the formulas (Si-III) and (Si-IV) differ in the grouping at the Si atom, which carries the nitrogen-comprising group: In formula (Si-III), R2 represents a hydroxy group or a C1-4 alkoxy group, while the radical in formula (Si-IV) is a methyl group. The individual Si groupings, which are marked with the indices m and n or p and q, do not have to be present as blocks; rather, the individual units can also be present in a statistically distributed manner, i.e. in the formulas (Si-III) and (Si-IV), not every R1-Si(CH3)2 group is necessarily bonded to an —[O—Si(CH3)2] grouping.
Processes as contemplated herein in which a colorant comprising at least one amino-functional silicone polymer of the formula (Si-V) is applied to the keratin fibers have also proved to be particularly effective in producing intense color results.
located in the
A represents a group —OH, —O—Si(CH3)3, —O—Si(CH3)2OH, —O—Si(CH3)2OCH3,
D represents a group —H, —Si(CH3)3, —Si(CH3)2OH, —Si(CH3)2OCH3,
b, n and c stand for integers between about 0 and about 1000,
with the specifications
In the above formula (Si-V), the individual siloxane units are statistically distributed with the indices b, c and n, i.e., they do not necessarily have to be block copolymers.
The previously applied colorant may further comprise one or more different amino-functionalized silicone polymers represented by the formula (Si-VI)
M(RaQbSiO(4−a−b)/2)x(RcSiO(4−c)/2)yM (Si-VI)
in which formula above R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having from about 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, Q is a polar radical of the general formula —R1HZ wherein R1 is a divalent linking group bonded to hydrogen and the radical Z composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms, or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and Z is an organic amino functional radical comprising at least one amino functional group; “a” takes values ranging from about 0 to about 2, “b” takes values ranging from about 1 to about 3, “a”+“b” is less than or equal to about 3, and “c” is a number ranging from about 1 to about 3, and x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2, 000, preferably from about 3 to about 50 and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and y is a number in the range of from about 20 to about 10,000, preferably from about 125 to about 10,000 and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and M is a suitable silicone end group as known in the prior art, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Non-limiting examples of radicals represented by R include alkyl radicals, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; alkenyl radicals, such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; cycloalkyl radicals, such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals, such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-comprising radicals, such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; preferably R is an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R is methyl. Examples of R1 include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, —CH2CH(CH3)CH2—, phenylene, naphthylene, —CH2CH2SCH2CH2—, —CH2CH2OCH2—, —OCH2CH2—, —OCH2 CH2CH2—, —CH2CH(CH3)C(O)OCH2—, —(CH2)3 CC(O)OCH2CH2—, —C6H4C6H4—, —C6H4CH2C6H4—; and —(CH2)3C(O)SCH2CH2—.
Z is an organic amino functional radical comprising at least one amino functional group. One formula for Z is NH(CH2)zNH2, where z is about 1 or more. Another formula for Z is —NH(CH2)z(CH2)zzNH, wherein both z and zz are independently about 1 or more, this structure comprising diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl. Z is most preferably an —NHCH2CH2NH2 radical. Another formula for Z is —N(CH2)z(CH2)zzNX2 or —NX2, wherein each X of X2 is independently chosen from hydrogen and alkyl groups having about 1 to about 12 carbon atoms, and zz is about 0.
Q is most preferably a polar, amine-functional radical of the formula —CH2CH2CH2NHCH2CH2NH2. In the formulas, “a” takes values ranging from about 0 to about 2, “b” takes values ranging from about 2 to about 3, “a”+“b” is less than or equal to about 3, and “c” is a number ranging from about 1 to about 3. The molar ratio of RaQbSiO(4−a−b)/2 units to RcSiO(4−c)/2 units is in the range of about 1:2 to about 1:65, preferably from about 1:5 to about 1:65 and most preferably by about 1:15 to about 1:20. If one or more silicones of the above formula are used, then the various variable substituents in the above formula may be different for the various silicone components present in the silicone mixture.
In a particularly preferred embodiment, a process as contemplated herein is exemplified by the prior application of a colorant to the keratinous material, said colorant comprising an amino-functional silicone polymer of formula (Si-VII)
R′aG3−a—Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR′2−b)m—O—SiG3−a—R′a (Si-VII),
wherein:
In the context of a further preferred embodiment, a process as contemplated herein is exemplified by the prior application of a colorant to the keratinous material, the colorant comprising at least one amino-functional silicone polymer of the formula (Si-VIIa),
wherein m and n are numbers whose sum (m+n) is between about 1 and about 2000, preferably between about 50 and about 150, n preferably assuming values from about 0 to about 1999 and from about 49 to about 149, and m preferably assuming values from about 1 to about 2000, from about 1 to about 10.
According to the INCI declaration, these silicones are called trimethylsilylamodimethicones.
In a further preferred embodiment, a process as contemplated herein is exemplified by the prior application of a colorant to the keratinous material, said colorant comprising at least one amino-functional silicone polymer of formula (Si-VIIb)
in which R represents —OH, —O—CH3 or a —CH3 group and m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m+n1+n2) is between about 1 and about 2000, preferably between about 50 and about 150, the sum (n1+n2) preferably assuming values from about 0 to about 1999 and from about 49 to about 149 and m preferably assuming values from about 1 to about 2000, from about 1 to about 10.
According to the INCI declaration, these amino-functionalized silicone polymers are called amodimethicones.
Regardless of which amino functional silicones are used, colorants as contemplated herein are preferred which contain an amino functional silicone polymer whose amine number is above about 0.25 meq/g, preferably above about 0.3 meq/g and above about 0.4 meq/g. The amine number represents the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and expressed in the unit mg KOH/g.
Furthermore, colorants which included a special 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone polymer are also suitable for use in the process as contemplated herein. This amino-functionalized silicone polymer comprises structural units of the formulae (SI-VIII) and of the formula (Si-IX)
Corresponding 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone polymers are described below.
A corresponding amino-functionalized silicone polymer is available under the name of Amodimethicone/Morpholinomethyl Silsesquioxane Copolymer is known and commercially available from Wacker in the form of the raw material Belsil ADM 8301 E.
As a 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone, for example, a silicone can be used which has structural units of the formulae (Si-VIII), (Si-IX) and (Si-X)
in which
R1 is —CH3, —OH, —OCH3, —O—CH2CH3, —O—CH2CH2CH3, or —O—CH(CH3)2;
R2 is —CH3, —OH, or —OCH3.
Particularly preferred colorants contain at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (Si-XI)
located in the
R1 is —CH3, —OH, —OCH3, —O—CH2CH3, —O—CH2CH2CH3, or —O—CH(CH3)2;
R2 is —CH3, —OH, or —OCH3.
B represents a group —OH, —O—Si(CH3)3, —O—Si(CH3)2OH, —O—Si(CH3)2OCH3,
D represents a group —H, —Si(CH3)3, —Si(CH3)2OH, —Si(CH3)2OCH3,
a, b and c stand independently for integers between 0 and about 1000, with the condition a+b+c>0
m and n independently of each other stand for integers between 1 and about 1000
with the proviso that
Structural formula (Si-XI) is intended to illustrate that the siloxane groups n and m do not necessarily have to be directly bonded to a terminal grouping B or D, respectively. Rather, in preferred formulas (Si-VI) a>about 0 or b>about 0 and in particularly preferred formulas (Si-VI) a>about 0 and c>about 0, i.e., the terminal grouping B or D is preferably attached to a dimethylsiloxy grouping. Also, in formula (Si-VI), the siloxane units a, b, c, m and n are preferably statistically distributed.
The silicones used as contemplated herein represented by formula (Si-VI) can be trimethylsilyl-terminated (D or B=—Si(CH3)3), but they can also be dimethylsilylhydroxy-terminated on two sides or dimethylsilylhydroxy-terminated and dimethylsilylmethoxy-terminated on one side. Silicones particularly preferred in the context of the present disclosure are selected from silicones in which
to everyone. These silicones lead to exorbitant improvements in the hair properties of the hair treated with the agents of this disclosure, and to a seriously improved protection in oxidative treatment.
In the agent used for the preceding coloration in the process as contemplated herein, one or more amino-functionalized silicone polymers may be present, for example, in a total amount of from about 0.1 to about 8.0 wt. %, preferably from about 0.2 to about 5.0 wt. %, more preferably from about 0.3 to about 3.0 wt. %, and most preferably from about 0.4 to about 2.5 wt. %. Here, the quantities are based on the total quantity of all amino silicones used, which is set in relation to the total weight of the colorant.
In the context of a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process as contemplated herein is described in that the colorant comprises—based on the total weight of the agent—one or more amino-functionalized silicone polymers in a total amount of from about 0.1 to about 8.0 wt. %, preferably from about 0.2 to about 5.0 wt. %, more preferably from about 0.3 to about 3.0 wt. % and very particularly preferably from about 0.4 to about 2.5 wt. %.
In the process as contemplated herein, a decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material that has previously been colored by applying at least one pigment.
Pigments within the meaning of the present disclosure are coloring compounds which have a solubility in water at about 25° C. of less than about 0.5 g/L, preferably less than about 0.1 g/L, even more preferably less than about 0.05 g/L. Water solubility can be determined, for example, by the method described below: about 0.5 g of the pigment are weighed in a beaker. A stir-fish is added. Then one liter of distilled water is added. This mixture is heated to about 25° C. for one hour while stirring on a magnetic stirrer. If undissolved components of the pigment are still visible in the mixture after this period, the solubility of the pigment is below about 0.5 g/L. If the pigment-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to the high intensity of the finely dispersed pigment, the mixture is filtered. If a proportion of undissolved pigments remains on the filter paper, the solubility of the pigment is below about 0.5 g/L.
Suitable color pigments can be of inorganic and/or organic origin. In a preferred embodiment, a process as contemplated herein is described in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material that has been colored by application of at least one inorganic and/or organic pigment.
Preferred color pigments are selected from synthetic or natural inorganic pigments. Inorganic color pigments of natural origin can be produced, for example, from chalk, ochre, umber, green earth, burnt Terra di Siena or graphite. Furthermore, black pigments such as iron oxide black, colored pigments such as ultramarine or iron oxide red as well as fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments can be used as inorganic color pigments.
Particularly suitable are colored metal oxides, hydroxides and oxide hydrates, mixed-phase pigments, sulfur-comprising silicates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulphates, chromates and/or molybdates. Preferred color pigments are black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and brown iron oxide (CI 77491), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarine (sodium aluminum sulfo silicates, CI 77007, pigment blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI77289), iron blue (ferric ferrocyanides, CI77510) and/or carmine (cochineal).
As contemplated herein, colored pearlescent pigments are also particularly preferred color pigments. These are usually mica- and/or mica-based and can be coated with one or more metal oxides. Mica belongs to the layer silicates. The most important representatives of these silicates are muscovite, phlogopite, paragonite, biotite, lepidolite and margarite. To produce the pearlescent pigments in combination with metal oxides, the mica, muscovite or phlogopite, is coated with a metal oxide.
As an alternative to natural mica, synthetic mica coated with one or more metal oxides can also be used as pearlescent pigment. Especially preferred pearlescent pigments are based on natural or synthetic mica (mica) and are coated with one or more of the metal oxides mentioned above. The color of the respective pigments can be varied by varying the layer thickness of the metal oxide(s).
In a preferred embodiment, a process as contemplated herein is described in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by application of at least one inorganic pigment, the inorganic pigment preferably being chosen from colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and/or mica- or mica-based colored pigments coated with at least one metal oxide and/or a metal oxychloride.
In a preferred embodiment, a process as contemplated herein is described in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by the application of at least one pigment selected from mica- or mica-based pigments which have been colored with one or more metal oxides chosen from titanium dioxide (CI 77891), black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and/or brown iron oxide (CI 77491, CI 77499), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarine (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI 77289), chromium oxide (CI 77288) and/or iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide, CI 77510)
Examples of particularly suitable color pigments are commercially available under the trade names Rona®, Colorona®, Xirona®, Dichrona® and Timiron® from Merck, Ariabel® and Unipure® from Sensient, Prestige® from Eckart Cosmetic Colors and Sunshine® from Sunstar.
Particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Colorona® are, for example:
Colorona Precious Gold, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide), Silica, CI 77491 (Iron oxides), Tin oxide
Colorona Mica Black, Merck, CI 77499 (Iron oxides), Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide)
Colorona Bright Gold, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide), CI 77491 (Iron oxides)
Other particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Xirona® are for example:
In addition, particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Unipure® are for example:
In another embodiment, the previously applied colorant may also contain one or more organic pigments.
The organic pigments as contemplated herein are correspondingly insoluble, organic dyes or color lacquers, which may be selected, for example, from the group of nitroso, nitro-azo, xanthene, anthraquinone, isoindolinone, isoindolinone, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketo-pyrrolopyorrole, indigo, thioindido, dioxazine and/or triarylmethane compounds.
Examples of particularly suitable organic pigments are carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and/or CI 75470.
In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process as contemplated herein, is described in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by application of at least one organic pigment, the organic pigment preferably being chosen from carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments having the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments having the color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with Color Index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with Color Index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and/or CI 75470.
The organic pigment can also be a color paint. As contemplated herein, the term color lacquer means particles comprising a layer of absorbed dyes, the unit of particle and dye being insoluble under the above mentioned conditions. The particles can, for example, be inorganic substrates, which can be aluminum, silica, calcium borosilate, calcium aluminum borosilicate or even aluminum.
For example, alizarin color varnish can be used.
Due to their excellent light and temperature resistance, the use of the above pigments in the agent is particularly preferred. It is also preferred if the pigments used have a certain particle size. As contemplated herein, it is therefore advantageous if the at least one pigment has an average particle size D50 of about 1.0 to about 50 μm, preferably about 5.0 to about 45 μm, preferably about 10 to about 40 μm, about 14 to about 30 μm. The mean particle size D50, for example, can be determined using dynamic light scattering (DLS).
In the agent used for the preceding coloration in the process as contemplated herein, one or more pigments may be present, for example, in a total amount of from about 0.01 to about 10.0 wt. %, preferably from about 0.1 to about 5.0 wt. %, more preferably from about 0.2 to about 2.5 wt. % and very particularly preferably from about 0.25 to about 1.5 wt. %. Here, the quantities are based on the total quantity of all pigments used, which is set in relation to the total weight of the colorant.
In another very particularly preferred embodiment, a colorant as contemplated herein is described in that the colorant comprises—based on the total weight of the colorant—one or more pigments in a total amount of from about 0.01 to about 10.0 wt. %, preferably from about 0.1 to about 5.0 wt. %, more preferably from about 0.2 to about 2.5 wt. % and very particularly preferably from about 0.25 to about 1.5 wt. %.
As a further optional component, the colorants could also additionally contain one or more direct dyes. Direct-acting dyes are dyes that draw directly onto the hair and do not require an oxidative process to form the color. Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylene diamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, triarylmethane dyes or indophenols.
The direct dyes within the meaning of the present disclosure have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at about 25° C. of more than about 0.5 g/L and are therefore not to be regarded as pigments.
Preferably, the direct dyes within the meaning of the present disclosure have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at about 25° C. of more than about 1.0 g/L.
Direct dyes can be divided into anionic, cationic and non-ionic direct dyes.
In a further embodiment, an agent as contemplated herein may be wherein it additionally comprises at least one colorant compound chosen from anionic, nonionic and cationic direct dyes.
Suitable cationic direct dyes include Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, HC Blue 16, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 16, Basic Blue 347 (Cationic Blue 347/Dystar), HC Blue No. 16, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31, Basic Red 51 Basic Red 76.
As non-ionic direct dyes, non-ionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes can be used. Suitable non-ionic direct dyes are those listed under the international designations or Trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9 known compounds, as well as 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-aminophenol 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4-[(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1-amino-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1-(2′-ureidoethyl)amino-4-nitrobenzene, 2-[(4-amino-2-nitrophenyl)amino]benzoic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, picramic acid and its salts, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol.
Anionic direct dyes are also called acid dyes. Acid dyes are direct dyes that have at least one carboxylic acid group (—COOH) and/or one sulphonic acid group (—SO3H). Depending on the pH value, the protonated forms (—COOH, —SO3H) of the carboxylic acid or sulphonic acid groups are in equilibrium with their deprotonated forms (—COO−, —SO3− present). The proportion of protonated forms increases with decreasing pH. If direct dyes are used in the form of their salts, the carboxylic acid groups or sulphonic acid groups are present in deprotonated form and are neutralized with corresponding stoichiometric equivalents of cations to maintain electro neutrality. Relative to this disclosure, acid dyes can also be used in the form of their sodium salts and/or their potassium salts.
The acid dyes within the meaning of the present disclosure have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at about 25° C. of more than about 0.5 g/L and are therefore not to be regarded as pigments. Preferably the acid dyes within the meaning of the present disclosure have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at about 25° C. of more than about 1.0 g/L.
The alkaline earth salts (such as calcium salts and magnesium salts) or aluminum salts of acid dyes often have a lower solubility than the corresponding alkali salts. If the solubility of these salts is below about 0.5 g/L (25° C., 760 mmHg), they do not fall under the definition of a direct dye.
An essential characteristic of acid dyes is their ability to form anionic charges, whereby the carboxylic acid or sulphonic acid groups responsible for this are usually linked to different chromophoric systems. Suitable chromophoric systems can be found, for example, in the structures of nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, triarylmethane dyes, xanthene dyes, rhodamine dyes, oxazine dyes and/or indophenol dyes.
In a further embodiment, an agent for dyeing keratinous material may be wherein it comprises at least one anionic direct dye chosen from the nitrophenylenediamines, the nitroaminophenols, the azo dyes, the anthraquinone dyes, the triarylmethane dyes, the xanthene dyes the rhodamine dyes, the oxazine dyes and/or the indophenol dyes, the dyes from the abovementioned group each having at least one carboxylic acid group (—COOH), a sodium carboxylate group (—COONa), a potassium carboxylate group (—COOK), a sulfonic acid group (—SO3H), a sodium sulfonate group (—SO3Na) and/or a potassium sulfonate group (—SO3K).
Suitable acid dyes may include, for example, one or more compounds selected from the following group: Acid Yellow 1 (D&C Yellow 7, Citronin A, Ext. D&C Yellow No. 7, Japan Yellow 403, CI 10316, COLIPA no B001), Acid Yellow 3 (COLIPA no: C 54, D&C Yellow No 10, Quinoline Yellow, E104, Food Yellow 13), Acid Yellow 9 (CI 13015), Acid Yellow 17 (CI 18965), Acid Yellow 23 (COLIPA no C. 29, Covacap Jaune W 1100 (LCW), Sicovit Tartrazine 85 E 102 (BASF), Tartrazine, Food Yellow 4, Japan Yellow 4, FD&C Yellow No. 5), Acid Yellow 36 (CI 13065), Acid Yellow 121 (CI 18690), Acid Orange 6 (CI 14270), Acid Orange 7 (2-Naphthol orange, Orange II, CI 15510, D&C Orange 4, COLIPA no C015), Acid Orange 10 (C.I. 16230; Orange G sodium salt), Acid Orange 11 (CI 45370), Acid Orange 15 (CI 50120), Acid Orange 20 (CI 14600), Acid Orange 24 (BROWN 1; CI 20170; KATSU201; nosodiumsalt; Brown No. 201; RESORCIN BROWN; ACID ORANGE 24; Japan Brown 201; D & C Brown No. 1), Acid Red 14 (C.I. 14720), Acid Red 18 (E124, Red 18; CI 16255), Acid Red 27 (E 123, CI 16185, C-Rot 46, Real red D, FD&C Red Nr. 2, Food Red 9, Naphthol red S), Acid Red 33 (Red 33, Fuchsia Red, D&C Red 33, CI 17200), Acid Red 35 (CI C.I.18065), Acid Red 51 (CI 45430, Pyrosin B, Tetraiodfluorescein, Eosin J, Iodeosin), Acid Red 52 (CI 45100, Food Red 106, Solar Rhodamine B, Acid Rhodamine B, Red no 106 Pontacyl Brilliant Pink), Acid Red 73 (CI 27290), Acid Red 87 (Eosin, CI 45380), Acid Red 92 (COLIPA no C53, CI 45410), Acid Red 95 (CI 45425, Erythtosine, Simacid Erythrosine Y), Acid Red 184 (CI 15685), Acid Red 195, Acid Violet 43 (Jarocol Violet 43, Ext. D&C Violet no 2, C.I. 60730, COLIPA no C063), Acid Violet 49 (CI 42640), Acid Violet 50 (CI 50325), Acid Blue 1 (Patent Blue, CI 42045), Acid Blue 3 (Patent Blue V, CI 42051), Acid Blue 7 (CI 42080), Acid Blue 104 (CI 42735), Acid Blue 9 (E 133, Patent Blue AE, Amido blue AE, Erioglaucin A, CI 42090, C.I. Food Blue 2), Acid Blue 62 (CI 62045), Acid Blue 74 (E 132, CI 73015), Acid Blue 80 (CI 61585), Acid Green 3 (CI 42085, Foodgreenl), Acid Green 5 (CI 42095), Acid Green 9 (C.I.42100), Acid Green 22 (C.I.42170), Acid Green 25 (CI 61570, Japan Green 201, D&C Green No. 5), Acid Green 50 (Brilliant Acid Green BS, C.I. 44090, Acid Brilliant Green BS, E 142), Acid Black 1 (Black no 401, Naphthalene Black 10B, Amido Black 10B, CI 20 470, COLIPA no B15), Acid Black 52 (CI 15711), Food Yellow 8 (CI 14270), Food Blue 5, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Green 5, D&C Orange 10, D&C Orange 11, D&C Red 21, D&C Red 27, D&C Red 33, D&C Violet 2 and/or D&C Brown 1.
For example, the water solubility of anionic direct dyes can be determined in the following way. about 0.1 g of the anionic direct dye is placed in a beaker. A stir-fish is added. Then add about 100 ml of water. This mixture is heated to about 25° C. on a magnetic stirrer while stirring. It is stirred for about 60 minutes. The aqueous mixture is then visually assessed. If there are still undissolved radicals, the amount of water is increased—for example in steps of 10 ml. Water is added until the amount of dye used is completely dissolved. If the dye-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to the high intensity of the dye, the mixture is filtered. If a proportion of undissolved dyes remains on the filter paper, the solubility test is repeated with a higher quantity of water. If about 0.1 g of the anionic direct dye dissolves in about 100 ml water at about 25° C., the solubility of the dye is about 1.0 g/L.
Acid Yellow 1 is called 8-hydroxy-5,7-dinitro-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid disodium salt and has a solubility in water of at least about 40 g/L (25° C.).
Acid Yellow 3 is a mixture of the sodium salts of mono- and disulfonic acids of 2-(2-quinolyl)-1H-indene-1,3(2H)-dione and has a water solubility of about 20 g/L (25° C.).
Acid Yellow 9 is the disodium salt of 8-hydroxy-5,7-dinitro-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid, its solubility in water is above about 40 g/L (25° C.).
Acid Yellow 23 is the trisodium salt of 4,5-dihydro-5-oxo-1-(4-sulfophenyl)-4-((4-sulfophenyl)azo)-1H-pyrazole-3-carboxylic acid and is highly soluble in water at 25° C.
Acid Orange 7 is the sodium salt of 4-[(2-hydroxy-1-naphthyl)azo]benzene sulphonate. Its water solubility is more than about 7 g/L (25° C.).
Acid Red 18 is the trinatrium salt of 7-hydroxy-8-[(E)-(4-sulfonato-1-naphthyl)-diazenyl)]-1,3-naphthalene disulfonate and has a remarkably high water solubility of more than about 20 wt. %.
Acid Red 33 is the dinatrium salt of 5-amino-4-hydroxy-3-(phenylazo)-naphthalene-2,7-disulphonate, its solubility in water is about 2.5 g/L (25° C.).
Acid Red 92 is the disodium salt of 3,4,5,6-tetrachloro-2-(1,4,5,8-tetrabromo-6-hydroxy-3-oxoxanthen-9-yl)benzoic acid, whose solubility in water is indicated as greater than about 10 g/L (25° C.).
Acid Blue 9 is the disodium salt of 2-({4-[N-ethyl(3-sulfonatobenzyl]amino]phenyl}{4-[(N-ethyl(3-sulfonatobenzyl)imino]-2,5-cyclohexadien-1-ylidene}methyl)-benzenesulfonate and has a solubility in water of more than about 20 wt. % (25° C.).
In a further embodiment, a colorant as contemplated herein is therefore is described in that it comprises at least one direct dye chosen from Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 3, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 17, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 121, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 11, Acid Orange 15, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 51, Acid Red 52, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 87, Acid Red 92, Acid Red 95, Acid Red 184, Acid Red 195, Acid Violet 43, Acid Violet 49, Acid Violet 50, Acid Blue 1, Acid Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 104, Acid Blue 9, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 74, Acid Blue 80, Acid Green 3, Acid Green 5, Acid Green 9, Acid Green 22, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 50, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, Food Yellow 8, Food Blue 5, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Green 5, D&C Orange 10, D&C Orange 11, D&C Red 21, D&C Red 27, D&C Red 33, D&C Violet 2 and/or D&C Brown 1.
The direct-acting dye or dyes can be used in various amounts in the colorant, depending on the desired color intensity. Satisfactory results could be obtained if the colorant—based on the total weight of the colorant—comprises one or more direct dyes in a total amount of about 0.01 to about 10.0 wt. %, preferably about 0.1 to about 8.0 wt. %, more preferably about 0.2 to about 6.0 wt. % and most preferably about 0.5 to about 4.5 wt. %.
Furthermore, the agent may also contain, as an additional optional component, a coloring compound chosen from photochromic or thermochromic dyes.
Photochromic dyes are dyes that react to irradiation with UV light (sunlight or black light) with a reversible change in hue. In this process, the UV light changes the chemical structure of the dyes and thus their absorption behavior (photochromism).
Thermochromic dyes are dyes that react to temperature changes with a reversible change in hue. In this process, the change in temperature alters the chemical structure of the dyes and thus their absorption behavior (Thermochromism).
The colorant may contain—based on the total weight of the colorant—one or more photochromic and/or thermochromic dyes in a total amount of from about 0.01 to about 10.0 wt. %, preferably from about 0.1 to about 8.0 wt. %, more preferably from about 0.2 to about 6.0 wt. % and most preferably from about 0.5 to about 4.5 wt. %.
In the process as contemplated herein, a decolorizing agent is applied to the keratin material, to human hair, which has been dyed as described above. The decolorizing agent is applied to the dyed keratin material and rinsed off again after a reaction time.
The time when the decolorizer is applied depends on the needs of the user and can be adjusted to his habits.
For example, it is possible to apply the decolorizing agent to the freshly dyed, still wet or preferably dried keratin material, so that a period of several hours lies between the rinsing out of the dyeing agent and the application of the decolorizing agent. This application of the decolorizing agent shortly after dyeing can be done especially if the result of the dyeing does not meet the user's expectations. It is also possible, for example, to apply a very intense or eye-catching coloration for a particular occasion and then remove the coloration after that occasion.
Likewise, it is possible that there is a longer period between the previous application of the colorant and the application of the decolorant, which can range from a few to several days or even weeks. In this context, the requirement is that the decolorizing agent is applied to colored keratin material, which means that the keratin material must still be colored by the application of the pigments.
The decolorizing agent is described in that it comprises
(a) at least one salt of a monovalent or divalent cation, and
(b) has a pH value of about 1.0 to about 4.7.
The decolorizing agent used in the process as contemplated herein is described in that it comprises at least one salt of a monovalent or divalent cation.
Monovalent cations are simply positively charged cations. Examples of monovalent cations are the sodium cation (Na+), the potassium cation (K+), and the ammonium cation (NH4)+.
Bivalent cations are defined as cations with a double positive charge. Examples of bivalent cations are approx Ca2+ (the calcium cation), Mg2+ (the magnesium cation), Ba2+ (the barium cation), Cu2+ (the copper cation), Fe2+ (the iron cation) and Zn2+ (the zinc cation).
Particularly suitable salts of monovalent or divalent cations are the salts of calcium, the salts of magnesium, the salts of sodium, the salts of potassium and the salts of ammonium.
In a further embodiment, a process as contemplated herein is described in that the decolorant comprises at least one salt of a monovalent or divalent cation (a) chosen from calcium salts, magnesium salts, sodium salts, potassium salts and ammonium salts.
In the salts of divalent cations, the two positive charges are neutralized by the presence of the corresponding equivalents of anionically charged counterions. The anions present as counterions can be inorganic or organic counterions.
Examples of organic anionic counterions are citrates (salts of citric acid), salicylates (salts of salicylic acid), tartrates (salts of tartaric acid), lactates (salts of lactic acid), malates (salts of malic acid), succinates (salts of succinic acid), benzoates (salts of benzoic acid), fumarates (salts of fumaric acid), maleates (salts of maleic acid) and acetates (salts of acetic acid).
Examples of inorganic anionic counterions are phosphates, sulfates, silicates, hydrogen phosphates, carbonates and hydrogen carbonates.
In another very particularly preferred embodiment, a process as contemplated herein is described in that the decolorant comprises at least one salt of a monovalent or divalent cation (a) chosen from
Calcium citrate, the calcium salt the citric acid, is a white, crystalline solid, which has CAS numbers 813-94-5 (anhydrous) and 5785-44-4 (tetrahydrate).
The term magnesium citrate refers to the magnesium salts of citric acid. In detail, these can be:
Sodium citrate is the sodium salt of citric acid. It comprises three sodium ions (Na+) and the citration (C6H5O73−) and has the CAS number 68-04-2.
Calcium salicylate is the calcium salt of salicylic acid.
Magnesium salicylate is the magnesium salt of salicylic acid.
Sodium salicylate is the sodium salt of salicylic acid. It is alternatively known as 2-hydroxybenzoic acid sodium salt and carries the CAS number 54-21-7.
Calcium phosphate has the molecular formula Ca3(PO4)2 and carries the CAS number 7758-87-4.
In food technology, magnesium phosphates are collectively referred to as magnesium dihydrogen phosphate magnesium hydrogen phosphate and magnesium phosphate. They are approved in the European Union as food additives under the common number E 343. Sodium phosphate is a sodium salt of phosphoric acid. It is composed of sodium (3 Na+) and phosphate ions (PO43−) and has CAS numbers 7601-54-9, 15819-50-8 (hexahydrate) and 10101-89-0 (dodecahydrate).
Calcium sulfate has the molecular formula CaSO4 and carries the CAS number 7778-18-9 (anhydrous) or 10034-76-1 (hemihydrate), 10101-41-4 (dihydrate) or 13397-24-5 (hydrate).
Magnesium sulfate has the molecular formula MgSO4 and carries the CAS number 7487-88-9 (magnesium sulfate) or 10034-99-8 (MgSO4-7H2O).
Calcium tartrate is the calcium salt of tartaric acid, usually L-tartaric acid and has CAS numbers 3164-34-9, 5892-21-7 (tetrahydrate) and 110720-66-6 (DL).
Sodium tartrate is a sodium salt of tartaric acid with the molecular formula C4H4O6Na2 and has the CAS numbers 868-18-8 (anhydrate), 6106-24-7 (dihydrate), 109175-69-1 (anhydrate), 22476-07-9 (dihydrate), 4504-50-1 (meso-form) and 51307-92-7 (racemate).
Calcium lactate is the calcium salt of lactic acid and has the CAS number 814-80-2. Magnesium lactate is the magnesium salt of lactic acid.
Sodium lactate (sodium lacticum) is the sodium salt of lactic acid with the formula NaC3H5O3 and CAS number 72-17-3.
Calcium malate is the calcium salt of malic acid (E 296) and a food additive. Calcium malate has the CAS number 17482-42-7.
Magnesium malate is the magnesium salt of malic acid with CAS numbers 869-06-7 and 6150-86-3 (trihydrate).
Sodium malate is the sodium salt of malic acid with CAS numbers 676-46-0 (unspecified stereochemistry), 22798-10-3 (racemate), 138-09-0 (L-form), and 207511-06-6 (L-form hydrate).
Calcium succinate is the calcium salt of succinic acid.
Magnesium succinate is the magnesium salt of succinic acid.
Sodium succinate is the sodium salt of succinic acid.
Calcium benzoate is the calcium salt of benzoic acid.
Magnesium benzoate is the magnesium salt of benzoic acid.
Sodium benzoate is the sodium salt of benzoic acid.
Calcium fumarate is the calcium salt of fumaric acid and has the CAS numbers 7718-51-6 and 19855-56-2.
Magnesium fumarate is the magnesium salt of fumaric acid
Sodium fumarate is the sodium salt of fumaric acid
Calcium chloride has the molecular formula CaCl2) and carries the CAS numbers 10043-52-4 (anhydrous), 13477-29-7 (monohydrate), 10035-04-8 (dihydrate), 25094-02-4 (tetrahydrate), 7774-34-7 (hexahydrate) and 22691-02-7 (hydrate).
Calcium bromide has the molecular formula CaBr2 and carries the CAS numbers 7789-41-5 (anhydrous), 71626-99-8 (hydrate), 22208-73-7 (dihydrate) and 13477-28-6 (hexahydrate).
Magnesium chloride has the molecular formula MgCl2 and carries the CAS numbers 7786-30-3 (anhydrous) and 7791-18-6 (hexahydrate).
Magnesium bromide has the molecular formula MgBr2 and carries the CAS numbers 7789-48-2 and 13446-53-2 (hexahydrate).
To optimize the decolorizing performance, it may be preferable to use the salts of the monovalent or divalent cations (a) in the decolorizing agent in certain quantity ranges. Particularly beneficial effects were obtained when the decolorant included—based on the total weight of the decolorant—one or more salts of monovalent or divalent cations (a) in a total amount of about 1.0 to about 15.0 wt. %, preferably about 1.5 to about 13.0 wt. %, more preferably about 3.0 to about 12.0 wt. % and very particularly preferably about 4.5 to about 8.0 wt. %.
In a further embodiment, a process as contemplated herein is described in that the decolorant comprises—based on the total weight of the decolorant—one or more salts of monovalent or divalent cations (a) in a total amount of about 1.0 to about 15.0 wt. %, preferably about 1.5 to about 13.0 wt. %, more preferably about 3.0 to about 12.0 wt. % and very particularly preferably about 4.5 to about 8.0 wt. %.
Since the decolorant is adjusted to an acidic pH in the range of 1.0 to 4.7 as contemplated herein, it comprises water or comprises a water-comprising carrier.
Accordingly, a first object of the present disclosure is, in other words, a process for decolorizing keratin material which has been colored by application of at least one pigment, wherein a decolorizing agent which is
(a) at least one amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactant, and
(b) comprises water and has a pH value of about 1.0 to about 4.7,
is applied to the dyed keratin material and rinsed off again after a contact time.
Particularly good removal of the excess pigments or amino silicones was possible if the decolorant—based on the total weight of the decolorant—had a water content of about 50 to about 99 wt. %, preferably about 55 to about 98 wt. %, more preferably about 60 to about 97 wt. %, and particularly preferably about 70 to about 96 wt. %.
In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process as contemplated herein is therefore described in that the decolorant—based on the total weight of the decolorant—has a water content of from about 50 to about 99 wt. %, preferably from about 55 to about 98 wt. %, more preferably from about 60 to about 97 wt. %, and particularly preferably from about 70 to about 96 wt. %.
The decolorant is exemplified by an acidic pH value in the range of about 1.0 to about 4.7.
In the series of experiments leading to this present disclosure, it was shown that the choice of the optimum pH value could control the decolorizing performance. A good decolorizing effect could already be observed from a pH value of about 4.7. However, by further lowering the pH, this decolorizing performance could be further improved.
In this context, it has been found to be particularly preferred if the decolorant has a pH (b) of from about 1.5 to about 4.6, preferably from about 2.0 to about 4.6, more preferably from about 2.5 to about 4.6, still more preferably from about 3.0 to about 4.6, and most preferably from about 3.8 to about 4.6.
In the context of a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a process as contemplated herein is described in that the decolorant has a pH (b) of from about 1.5 to about 4.6, preferably from about 2.0 to about 4.6, further preferably from about 2.5 to about 4.6, still further preferably from about 3.0 to about 4.6 and very particularly preferably from about 3.8 to about 4.6.
The decolorizing agent used in the process as contemplated herein is very preferably prepared in the form of a shampoo. It has been found to be particularly advantageous if the decolorizing agent comprises at least one surfactant, preferably at least one anionic and/or zwitterionic surfactant.
In the context of a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a process as contemplated herein is described in that the decolorizing agent comprises at least one anionic and/or zwitterionic surfactant.
The term surfactants (T) refer to surface-active substances that can form adsorption layers on surfaces and interfaces or aggregate in bulk phases to form micelle colloids or lyotropic mesophases. A distinction is made between anionic surfactants comprising a hydrophobic radical and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group, amphoteric surfactants, which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge, cationic surfactants, which have a positively charged hydrophilic group in addition to a hydrophobic radical, and nonionic surfactants, which have no charges but strong dipole moments and are strongly hydrated in aqueous solution.
Suitable anionic surfactants that can be used in the decolorants of the present disclosure include:
where R1 is preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical of about 8 to about 30 carbon atoms, R2 is hydrogen, a radical (CH2CH2O)nR1 or X, n is from 0 to about 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal or NR3R4R5R6, where R3 to R6 are each independently of the others a C1- to C4-hydrocarbon radical.
Particularly satisfactory results were obtained when at least one anionic surfactant of formula (T-1) was used in the decolorant,
where
R1 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 alkyl group,
x stands for an integer from 0 to about 50, and
M is a hydrogen atom, ammonium (NH4)+ or an equivalent of a monovalent or polyvalent cation.
In a very particularly preferred embodiment, a process as contemplated herein is described in that
the decolorizing agent comprises at least one anionic surfactant of the formula (T-1),
where
R1 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 alkyl group,
x stands for an integer from 0 to about 50, and
M is a hydrogen atom, ammonium (NH4)+ or an equivalent of a monovalent or polyvalent cation.
The radical R1 represents the hydrophobic part of the anionic surfactant and stands for a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 alkyl group. If the radical stands for an unsaturated C8-C30 alkyl group, then the alkyl group can be mono- or polyunsaturated.
Preferably, the radical R1 is a linear, saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 alkyl group-Very preferably, the radical R1 is a linear, saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 alkyl group. Explicitly quite particularly preferred, the radical R1 stands for an R for a linear, saturated or unsaturated C12-C18 alkyl group.
Examples of saturated, linear C8-C30 alkyl groups are the lauryl group, the myristyl group, the cetyl group, the stearyl group, and the behenyl group.
The index number x indicates the number of ethylene oxide groups included in the anionic surfactant. If x is 0, the anionic surfactant of formula (T-1) has no ethylene oxide units, in which case an alkyl sulfate or the salt of an alkyl sulfate is present.
Examples of the salts of alkyl sulfates are sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium myristyl sulfate.
Preferably, x represents an integer from 0 to 5, and particularly preferably, x represents an integer from 1 to about 5.
The radical M stands for a hydrogen atom, for ammonium (NH4)+ or for an equivalent of a monovalent or polyvalent cation.
If M stands for a hydrogen atom, then the anionic surfactant is present in the form of the protonated (and ethoxylated) sulfuric acid ester. In aqueous solution, the protonated form is in equilibrium with the deprotonated form, with the deprotonated form carrying an anionic charge. For this reason, the protonated compounds of formula (I) also fall into the group of anionic surfactants.
If M stands for ammonium (NH4)+ or for an equivalent of a monovalent or polyvalent cation, then the anionic surfactant of formula (I) is present in the form of its salt. The presence of the corresponding equivalent of a monovalent or polyvalent cation here ensures the electroneutrality of the anion surfactant. Preferably, M represents a monovalent cation, in particular a sodium or potassium cation.
In a very particularly preferred embodiment, a process as contemplated herein is A process is described in that the pretreatment agent (V) comprises at least one anionic surfactant (V-1) of the formula (T-1), wherein
R1 is a linear, saturated or unsaturated C12-C18 alkyl group,
X is an integer from 0 to about 5, preferably an integer from 1 to about 5,
M represents a hydrogen atom or an alkali metal cation, preferably a sodium cation or a potassium cation.
A particularly preferred anionic surfactant of formula (I) can be obtained commercially, for example, under the trade name Texapon NSO BZ (BZ=preserved with benzoic acid) and the INCI designation Sodium Laureth Sulfate from BASF. This Sodium Laureth Sulfate has the CAS number 68891-38-3.
To ensure particularly good decolorizing performance in the process as contemplated herein, the decolorant comprises—based on the total weight of the decolorant—one or more anionic surfactants in a total amount of from about 2.0 to about 18.0 wt. %, preferably from about 4.0 to about 16.0 wt. %, more preferably from about 6.0 to about 14.0 wt. % and very preferably from about 8.0 to about 12.0 wt. %.
In a very particularly preferred embodiment, a process as contemplated herein is A process is described in that the decolorant comprises—based on the total weight of the decolorant—one or more anionic surfactants in a total amount of from about 2.0 to about 18.0 wt. %, preferably from about 4.0 to about 16.0 wt. %, more preferably from about 6.0 to about 14.0 wt. % and very particularly preferably from about 8.0 to about 12.0 wt. %.
The effects achievable with the process as contemplated herein could be further improved if at least one zwitterionic and/or amphoteric surfactant was used in the decolorant in addition to or instead of the anionic surfactant.
In a very particularly preferred embodiment, a process as contemplated herein is A process is described in that the decolorant comprises at least one zwitterionic and/or amphoteric surfactant.
Quite particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants (V-2) may be selected from compounds of the following formulae (T-2), (T-3), (T-4) and/or (T-5),
where
R2, R3, R4 and R5 each independently represent the hydrophobic radical of the surfactant. R2,
R3, R4 and R5 independently represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 alkyl group, preferably a linear, saturated or unsaturated C12-C18 alkyl group.
The zwitterionic surfactants of the formula (T-2), (T-3), (T-4) and/or (T-5) each have a cationic charge in the form of a quaternary nitrogen atom which, in addition to two methyl groups, carries the respective radical R and furthermore the radical comprising the acid function. This cationic charge is neutralized by the acid function, which may be a deprotonated carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid.
In a very particularly preferred embodiment, a process as contemplated herein is A process is described in that the decolorant comprises at least one zwitterionic surfactant selected from the surfactants of formula (T-2), (T-3), (T-4) and/or (T-5),
where
R2, R3, R4, R5 independently represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 alkyl group, preferably a linear, saturated or unsaturated C12-C18 alkyl group.
The radical R2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 alkyl group,
preferably for a linear, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 alkyl group, very particularly
preferably for a linear, saturated or unsaturated C11-C17 alkyl group
The radical R3 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 alkyl group,
preferably for a linear, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 alkyl group, very particularly
preferably for a linear, saturated or unsaturated C11-C17 alkyl group
The radical R4 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 alkyl group, preferably a linear, saturated or unsaturated C12-C18 alkyl group.
The radical R5 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 alkyl group, preferably a linear, saturated or unsaturated C12-C18 alkyl group.
Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants of formula (T-2) are alkylamidoalkyl betaines. Particularly suitable amphoteric surfactants include those known under the INCI designation cocamidopropyl betaine and the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine.
Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants of formula (T-3) are, for example, C12-C14 alkyl dimethyl betaines, which can be obtained under the INCI designation Coco-Betaine in the form of the commercial product Genagen KB from the company Global Amines (formerly Clariant). Coco-Betaine has the CAS number 66455-29-6.
To achieve particularly good decolorizing results with the process as contemplated herein, the decolorizing agent preferably comprises the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants in certain quantity ranges. Particularly beneficial effects were obtained if the decolorant included—based on the total weight of the decolorant—one or more amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactants in a total amount of about 0.5 to about 8.5 wt. %, preferably about 1.0 to about 7.5 wt. %, more preferably about 1.5 to about 6.5 wt. % and very particularly preferably about 2.0 to about 4.5 wt. %.
In a very particularly preferred embodiment, a process as contemplated herein is A process is described in that the decolorant comprises—based on the total weight of the decolorant—one or more amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactants in a total amount of about 0.5 to about 8.5 wt. %, preferably about 1.0 to about 7.5 wt. %, more preferably about 1.5 to about 6.5 wt. % and most preferably about 2.0 to about 4.5 wt. %.
Within the process as contemplated herein, the decolorizing agent is applied to the colored keratin material and rinsed off again after a reaction time.
Since the decolorizing agent is applied to the colored hair, the decolorizing agent must be applied to the keratin material after the application of the previously described colorant.
In other words, the decolorizing agent is applied to the keratin material after the colorant has been rinsed out and the keratin material has been dried, preferably for accurate determination of the color result.
The exact time of application of the decolorizing agent is determined by the user's wish to remove the unwanted or no longer required coloration. For example, the decolorizing agent can be applied to the dyed keratin material about 12 to about 24 hours after application of the dyeing agent. In a further embodiment, however, the user may wear the colored keratin materials, the hair, for a period of several days to weeks until he decides to change the coloration again or wants his original hair color back.
In addition to the ingredients already described, the decolorant may also contain other optional ingredients, such as solvents, anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic and/or cationic polymers; structurants such as glucose, maleic acid and lactic acid, hair-conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example lecithin and cephalins; perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins; fiber structure-improving agents, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose; dyes for coloring the agent; antidandruff agents such as piroctone olamine, zinc omadine and climbazole; amino acids and oligopeptides; protein hydrolysates on animal and/or vegetable basis, as well as in the form of their fatty acid condensation products or, optionally, anionically or cationically modified derivatives; vegetable oils; light stabilizers and UV blockers; active ingredients such as panthenol, pantothenic acid, pantolactone, allantoin, pyrrolidinonecarboxylic acids and their salts, and bisabolol; Polyphenols, in particular hydroxycinnamic acids, 6,7-dihydroxycoumarins, hydroxybenzoic acids, catechins, tannins, leucoanthocyanidins, anthocyanidins, flavanones, flavones and flavonols; ceramides or pseudoceramides; vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors; plant extracts; Fats and waxes such as fatty alcohols, beeswax, montan wax and kerosene; swelling and penetrating agents such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates; opacifiers such as latex, styrene/PVP and styrene/acrylamide copolymers; pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3 distearate; and blowing agents such as propane-butane mixtures, N2O, dimethyl ether, CO2 and air.
The selection of these other substances will be made by the specialist according to the desired properties of the agents. Regarding other optional components and the quantities of these components used, explicit reference is made to the relevant manuals known to the specialist. The additional active ingredients and auxiliary substances are preferably used in the preparations as contemplated herein in quantities of about 0.0001 to about 25 wt. % each, about 0.0005 to about 15 wt. %, based on the total weight of the respective agent.
In the process as contemplated herein, the previously described decolorizing agent is applied to
applied to the dyed keratin material and rinsed off again after a contact time.
The application can be done for example with the (gloved) hand or with the help of an applicator, such as a brush or an applicate, or also a brush, or a comb.
Depending on whether the user wants a complete decolorization or only certain parts or strands. strands are to be decolorized, the decolorizing agent can be applied either to the entire keratinous material (such as the entire head of hair) or to specific parts or corresponding strands of the keratinous material or keratinous fibers.
After application, the decolorizing agent is left to act on the keratin material for a certain period. For example, an exposure time of 5 to 60 minutes, preferably of 5 to 30 minutes, further preferably of 5 to 15 minutes and most preferably of 5 to 10 minutes can be selected. After this exposure time, the decolorant is rinsed out again with water.
In a further preferred embodiment, a process as contemplated herein is described in that the decolorizing agent is applied to the colored keratin material and rinsed off again after an exposure time of about 5 to about 60 minutes, preferably of about 5 to about 30 minutes, further preferably of about 5 to about 15 minutes and very particularly preferably of about 5 to about 10 minutes.
The decolorizing agent can be applied to the keratin material at room temperature or at body temperature. However, the keratin material exposed to the decolorizing agent can also be exposed to elevated temperatures to support or coat the color fade. It is as contemplated herein if the decolorizing agent is applied to the dyed keratin material and the keratin material is heated to a temperature of about 25 to about 70° C., preferably about 25 to about 60° C., more preferably about 30 to about 55° C. and very particularly preferably about 40 to about 55° C. during the action of the decolorizing agent.
In the context of a further b embodiment, a method as contemplated herein is described in that
In addition to thermal support of the decolorization process, it is also possible to subject the keratin material exposed to the decolorizing agent to mechanical stress to improve the detachment of the film formed on the keratin material during coloring. For example, the keratin material can be massaged with the hands or combed with a comb or brush during the decolorization process. Any other mechanic stress suitable to improve the detachment of the colored film from the keratin material under the action of the decolorizing agent is also conceivable and encompassed by the process as contemplated herein.
In the context of a further preferred embodiment, a method as contemplated herein is described in that
As previously described, the decolorizing agent as contemplated herein can be applied to decolorize keratin material that has been colored by application of a pigment, or at least one pigment and at least one amino silicone. If, for example, the user discovers after dyeing that the color result does not meet his requirements, he can take this as an opportunity to remove the dyeing again by applying the decolorizing agent.
Furthermore, the user can also plan a coloring and the subsequent decolorization from the outset, for example, if he wants to dye his hair for a particular occasion and then decolorize it again. For this purpose, the user can also be provided with all agents or formulations necessary for both coloring and decoloring.
Thus, a second object of the present disclosure is a method for coloring and later decolorizing human hair, comprising the following steps:
(1) Applying a colorant to the hair, the colorant comprising at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer and at least one pigment, as already disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the present disclosure,
(2) Allow the dye to act on the hair,
(3) Rinse the dye from the hair,
(4) Applying a decolorizing agent to the hair, the decolorizing agent having been disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject present disclosure,
(5) Allowing the decolorizing agent to act on the hair,
(6) Rinse the decolorant out of the hair.
The preferred further subject matter of the present disclosure is a process for dyeing and subsequently decolorizing human hair, comprising the following steps in the order indicated:
(1) Applying a colorant to the hair, the colorant comprising at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer and at least one pigment, as already disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the present disclosure,
(2) Allow the dye to act on the hair,
(3) Rinse the dye from the hair,
(4) Applying a decolorizing agent to the hair, the decolorizing agent having been disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject present disclosure,
(5) Allowing the decolorizing agent to act on the hair,
(6) Rinse the decolorant out of the hair.
The pigments and the amino-functionalized silicone polymers have already been disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the present disclosure. The decolorizing agent has also already been disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the present disclosure.
It is particularly convenient for the user if the appropriate coloring and decolorizing agents are made available to him in the form of a multi-component packaging unit.
Thus, another counterpart of the present disclosure is a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for dyeing and decolorizing keratin material, comprising separately packaged components:
Concerning the further preferred embodiments of the multicomponent packaging unit as contemplated herein and the use, mutatis mutandis what has been said about the process as contemplated herein applies.
The following formulations were prepared (all figures in wt. % unless otherwise stated).
A strand of hair (Kerling, Euronatur hair white) was measured with a colorimeter from Datacolor, type Spectraflash 450.
After preparation, the colorant (FM) was applied to hair strands (Kerling, Euronatural hair white). The dye was left to act for three minutes. Subsequently, the hair strand was washed thoroughly (1 minute) with water, dried and left to rest for 24 hours.
One of the dyed strands was measured again with a colorimeter from Datacolor, type Spectraflash 450.
The decolorizer was applied to one colored strand of hair at a time, massaged in for 5 minutes and then rinsed with water. The hair decolorized in this way was allowed to dry and then colorimetrically measured.
The dE value used to assess color retention is derived from the L*a*b* colorimetric values measured on the respective strand part as follows:
dE=[(Li−L0)2+(ai−a0)2+(bi−b0)]1/2
L0, a0 and b0=measured values of the undyed strand
Li, ai, and bi=Measured values of the dyed/decolored strand
The smaller the dE value, the smaller the color distance compared to the undyed strand and the better the decolorizing effect.
While at least one exemplary embodiment has been presented in the foregoing detailed description, it should be appreciated that a vast number of variations exist. It should also be appreciated that the exemplary embodiment or exemplary embodiments are only examples, and are not intended to limit the scope, applicability, or configuration of the various embodiments in any way. Rather, the foregoing detailed description will provide those skilled in the art with a convenient road map for implementing an exemplary embodiment as contemplated herein. It being understood that various changes may be made in the function and arrangement of elements described in an exemplary embodiment without departing from the scope of the various embodiments as set forth in the appended claims.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 10 2019 218 237.2 | Nov 2019 | DE | national |
This application is a U.S. National-Stage entry under 35 U.S.C. § 371 based on International Application No. PCT/EP2020/075627, filed Sep. 14, 2020, which was published under PCT Article 21(2) and which claims priority to German Application No. 102019218237.2, filed Nov. 26, 2019, which are all hereby incorporated in their entirety by reference.
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP2020/075627 | 9/14/2020 | WO |
