Patent Application
20210401683
The present invention relates to a process for treating keratin materials, preferably human skin, in particular the lips and preferably in at least two steps involving, in a first stage, the application to said materials of an oily dispersion (A) comprising i) particles of copolymers of alkyl acrylates and of anhydride acrylics, ii) stabilizers, iii) one or more hydrocarbon-based oils; and then, in a second stage, the application to said materials of a composition (B) comprising iv) one or more amine compounds, it being understood that the process of the invention uses v) one or more cosmetic active agents chosen from a) pigments, b) active agents for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, and c) UV-screening agents and also d) mixtures thereof; ingredients a) to d) possibly being found in composition (A), and/or in composition (B), and/or in another composition (C).
During the aging process, various signs appear on the skin which are very characteristic of this aging, reflected notably by a change in the skin structure and functions. The main clinical signs of skin aging are notably the appearance of fine lines and deep wrinkles, which increase with age.
It is known practice to treat these signs of aging using cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing active agents that are capable of combating aging, such as α-hydroxy acids, β-hydroxy acids and retinoids. These active agents act on wrinkles by eliminating dead skin cells and by accelerating the cell renewal process. However, these active agents have the drawback of being effective for the treatment of wrinkles only after a certain application time. Now, it is increasingly sought to obtain an immediate effect of the active agents used, rapidly resulting in smoothing-out of wrinkles and fine lines and in the disappearance of fatigue marks.
Cosmetic products often require the use of a film-forming polymer to obtain a deposit of the product on keratin materials that has good cosmetic properties. In particular, it is necessary for the film-forming deposit to have good resistance, in particular for the deposit not to transfer during contact with the fingers or clothing, and also good resistance on contact with water, notably rain or during showering or perspiration, and also food fats, notably dietary oils.
It is known practice to use dispersions of polymer particles of nanometric size, in organic media such as hydrocarbon-based oils. Polymers are notably used as film-forming agents in makeup products such as mascaras, eyeliners, eyeshadows or lipsticks. EP-A-749 747 describes in the examples dispersions in hydrocarbon-based oils (liquid paraffin, isododecane) of acrylic polymers stabilized with polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-propylene) diblock copolymers. The film obtained after application of the dispersion to the skin is sparingly glossy. FR 1362795 also describes the use of dispersions of surface-stabilized polymer particles containing hydrocarbon-based oils for making up the lips and eyelashes. WO-A-2010/046229 describes dispersions in isododecane of acrylic polymers stabilized with stabilizing polymers. In the prepared by reversible chain-transfer controlled radical polymerization. FR 1 362 795 describes the use of dispersions of surface-stabilized polymer particles containing hydrocarbon-based oils for making up the lips and the eyelashes. In addition, the glossy effect notably on the lips is not always satisfactory.
Thus, the aim of the present invention is to provide a method for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin, preferably human skin and more preferentially facial skin, which has good resistance with respect to extemal attacking factors, and over time, of the action of the cosmetic active agent(s) such as the tensioning, care or ultraviolet (UV) protection effect, but also good persistence of makeup such as lip makeup.
The technical problem has been solved by the process of the invention, which is a process for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin, preferably human skin and more preferentially facial skin such as the lips, comprising:
it being understood that:
More preferentially, the process of the invention is a process for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin, preferably human skin and more preferentially facial skin such as the lips, comprising:
it being understood that the process of the invention uses v) one or more cosmetic active agents chosen from a) pigments, b) active agents for caring for keratin materials, notably the skin, and c) UV-screening agents, and also d) mixtures thereof, ingredients a) to d) possibly being found in composition (A), and/or in composition (B), and/or in another composition (C).
This process for treating keratin materials in at least two successive steps using, during a first step, the oily dispersion (A) as defined above and then, during a following step, a composition (B) comprising one or more amine compounds as defined above and optionally a composition (C), makes it possible to obtain a treatment of said keratin materials that is notably resistant to sweat, to shower gels, to water and to fatty substances, in particular plant or animal food oils, and more particularly plant oils such as olive oil, sunflower oil, walnut oil, hazelnut oil, etc.
The keratin material treatment process of the present patent application is also suitable for making up the skin or the lips, such as foundations and lipsticks.
A subject of the present patent application is also a process, notably a cosmetic process, for caring for or making up the skin or the lips, more particularly facial skin, in particular wrinkled skin, comprising the topical application to the skin or the lips of the compositions, notably the cosmetic compositions, (A) and (B) and optionally (C) as described previously. A subject of the invention is also a process, notably a cosmetic process, for caring for the skin, more particularly facial skin, in particular wrinkled skin, comprising the topical application to the skin of the compositions, notably the cosmetic compositions, (A) and (B) and optionally (C), as described previously.
The process of the present patent application is in particular intended for smoothing human facial and/or bodily skin and/or for reducing or eliminating the signs of skin aging, in particular for reducing or eliminating wrinkles and/or fine lines of the skin.
A subject of the invention is also the cosmetic use, as a skin tensioning agent, in particular for wrinkled skin, of the compositions, notably the cosmetic compositions, (A) and (B) and optionally (C) as described previously.
The term “tensioning agent means compounds that are capable of having a noticeable tensioning effect, i.e. of smoothing out the skin and immediately, reducing the wrinkles and fine lines, or even making them disappear.
The tensioning effect may be characterized by an in vitro shrinkage test.
For the purposes of the present invention and unless otherwise indicated:
The Oily Dispersion (A)
The process of the invention involves at least one oily dispersion (A) of i) particles of at least one polymer surface-stabilized with ii) at least one stabilizer in a preferably anhydrous medium, also containing iii) at least one hydrocarbon-based oil.
Moreover, the dispersions according to the invention are constituted of particles, which are generally spherical, of at least one surface-stabilized polymer, in a non-aqueous medium.
i) Polymer Particles
The particle(s) of the dispersion of the process of the invention are constituted of one or more ethylenic copolymers of a) (C1-C4)alkyl (C1-C4)(alkyl)acrylate and of b) ethylenically unsaturated anhydride compound.
The term “ethylenic copolymer” means a polymer resulting from the polymerization of two monomers: of the monomer a) (C1-C4)alkyl (C1-C4)(alkyl)acrylate and of the monomer b) of ethylenically unsaturated anhydride compound.
The term “ethylenically unsaturated anhydride compound” means a carboxylic acid anhydride compound comprising at least one ethylenic unsaturation —(Ra)C═C(Rb)—, —C(Ra)═C(Rb)—Rc or >C=C(Ra)—Rb, with Ra, Rb, and Rc, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, preferably hydrogen. In particular, the ethylenically unsaturated anhydride compound is a cyclic compound, which is preferably 5- or 6-membered, and comprising an ethylenic unsaturation.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polymer constituting the particles i) is a copolymer of acrylate:
a) of formula H2C═C(R)—C(O)—O—R′ with R representing a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, and R′ representing a linear or branched, preferably linear, (C1-C4)alkyl and in particular (C1-C3)alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, preferably linear or branched, preferably linear, C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate, in particular C1-C3 alkyl (meth)acrylate; and
b) of an ethylenically unsaturated anhydride monomer.
Particularly, the polymer of the particles is a polymer of linear or branched, preferably linear, C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate, in particular linear C1-C3 alkyl (meth)acrylate, and of ethylenically unsaturated anhydride monomer.
The monomers a) are preferably chosen from methyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate, n-propyl (meth)acrylate, isopropyl (meth)acrylate, n-butyl (meth)acrylate and tert-butyl (meth)acrylate.
Advantageously, a linear or branched, preferably linear, C1-C4 alkyl acrylate, in particular (C1-C3)alkyl acrylate, monomer is used. Preferentially, a) is chosen from methyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate.
The polymer of the particles also comprises an ethylenically unsaturated anhydride monomer b).
Preferentially, the ethylenically unsaturated anhydride compound(s) b) of the invention are chosen from derivatives of maleic anhydride (Ib) and of itaconic anhydride (IIb):
in which formulae (Ib) and (IIb) Ra, Rb and Rc, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4)alkyl group; preferably, Ra, Rb, and Rc represent a hydrogen atom.
More preferentially, the ethylenically unsaturated anhydride monomer of the invention is of formula (Ib) and even more preferentially is maleic anhydride.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polymer(s) of the particles i) comprise, or essentially consist of, from 80% to 99.99% by weight of monomer a) and from 0.01% to 20% by weight of monomer b), relative to the total weight of the polymer.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the copolymer(s) of the particles i) of dispersion (A) comprise from 80% to 99.99% by weight of ingredient a) and from 0.01% to 20% by weight of ingredient b), relative to the total weight of the copolymer(s) or particles. The preferred amount of a) is between 80% and 99.99% by weight relative to the total weight of the copolymer(s) (or of the particle(s)), in particular between 85% and 98%, more preferentially between 87% and 94% by weight relative to the total weight of the copolymer(s).
The polymer of the particles may be chosen from:
Advantageously, the polymer of the particles is a non-crosslinked polymer.
The polymer of the particles of the dispersion preferably has a number-average molecular weight ranging from 2000 to 10 000 000.
The polymer of the particles may be present in the dispersion in an amount ranging from 20% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the dispersion (A), in particular between 21% and 58.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the dispersion (A), preferably ranging from 30% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the dispersion (A), more preferentially ranging from 36% to 42% by weight relative to the total weight of the dispersion (A).
Preferably, the particle(s) consist of copolymer a) and b) which constitute the core of said particle.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the particles i) consist of copolymers a) and b) with an a)/b) weight ratio inclusively between 5.5 and 20, preferably between 6.5 and 16 and even more preferentially between 6.6 and 15.6.
ii) The Stabilizer(s)
The dispersion (A) according to the invention also comprises one or more stabilizers ii). Preferably, only one type of stabilizer ii) is used in the invention.
The stabilizer(s) of the invention are constituted of ethylenic polymers chosen from c) polymers of (C3-C12)cycloalkyl (C1-C6)(alkyl)acrylate monomers; and d) copolymers of (C3-C12)cycloalkyl (C1-C6)(alkyl)acrylate and (C1-C4)alkyl (C1-C4)(alkyl)acrylate.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the stabilizer(s) ii) are constituted of ethylenic polymers chosen from
c) polymers of monomers of formula H2C═C(R)—C(O)—O—R″ with R representing a hydrogen atom or (C1-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, and R″ representing a (C5-C10)cycloalkyl group such as norbornyl or isobornyl, preferably isobornyl; and
d) copolymers of H2C=C(R)—C(O)—O—R′ and of H2C═C(R)—C(O)—O—R″ with R, R′ and R″ as defined previously.
Particularly, the stabilizer ii) is an isobornyl (meth)acrylate polymer chosen from isobornyl (meth)acrylate homopolymer and statistical copolymers of isobornyl (meth)acrylate and C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate present in an isobornyl (meth)acrylate/C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate weight ratio of greater than 4; advantageously, said weight ratio ranges from 4.5 to 19.
For these statistical copolymers, the defined weight ratio makes it possible to obtain a polymer dispersion that is stable, notably after storage for seven days at room temperature.
Advantageously, the stabilizer is chosen from:
Advantageously, the sum ii) of stabilizer(s)+i) polymer particle(s) present in the dispersion (A) comprises from 10% to 50% by weight of copolymers d) and from 50% to 90% by weight of polymers c), relative to the total weight of the sum ii) of stabilizer(s)+i) polymer particle(s).
Preferentially, the sum ii) of stabilizer(s)+ii) polymer particle(s) present in the dispersion comprises from 15% to 30% by weight of copolymers d) and from 70% to 85% by weight of polymers c), relative to the total weight of the sum ii) of stabilizer(s)+i) polymer particle(s).
ii) The Hydrocarbon-Based Oil(s)
The dispersion (A) according to the invention comprises one or more identical or different, preferably identical, hydrocarbon-based oils.
The term “oil” means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure.
The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
The hydrocarbon-based oil may be volatile or nonvolatile.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the hydrocarbon-based oil(s) are volatile or are a mixture of different volatile oils, more preferentially chosen from isododecane and octyldodecanol.
According to a particular embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based oil(s) are a mixture of a volatile oil and a nonvolatile oil.
The term “volatile oil” means an oil (or non-aqueous medium) that can evaporate on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, which is liquid at room temperature, notably having a nonzero vapor pressure, at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10−3 to 300 mmHg), preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and preferentially ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
The term “nonvolatile oil” means an oil with a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa.
Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, notably those with a viscosity s 8 centistokes (cSt) (8×10−6 m2/s), and notably containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally including alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may notably be made of dimethicones with viscosities of 5 and 6 cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctytrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
As nonvolatile silicone oils, mention may be made of linear or cyclic nonvolatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs); polydimethylsiloxanes including alkyl, alkoxy and/or phenyl groups, which are pendent or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl timethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates and pentaphenyl silicone oils. The hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from:
hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, and notably:
In addition to the hydrocarbon-based oil, the dispersion (A) may comprise a silicone oil. If silicone oil is in the dispersion (A), it is preferably in an amount which does not exceed 10% by weight relative to the weight of the dispersion (A), more particularly in an amount of less than 5% and preferentially 2%. The term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and notably at least one Si—O group. The silicone oil may be volatile or nonvolatile.
According to a particular embodiment, the dispersion (A) comprises a hydrocarbon-based oil in a content ranging from 60% to 100% by weight relative to the total weight of the oils present in the composition and from 0 to 40% by weight of silicone oil. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition contains, as oil, only a hydrocarbon-based oil.
Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based oil(s) of the invention are apolar, i.e. formed solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms.
The hydrocarbon-based oil(s) are preferably chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, which are in particular volatile, more particularly the apolar oils, described previously.
Preferentially, the hydrocarbon-based oil(s) of the invention are isododecane.
According to another advantageous embodiment of the invention, the hydrocarbon-based oil(s) are a mixture of nonvolatile and volatile oil; preferably, the mixture comprises isododecane as volatile oil. In particular, in the mixture, the nonvolatile oil is a phenyl silicone oil, preferably chosen from pentaphenyl silicone oils.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions used in the process, (B) and (C), also comprise at least one oil as defined previously, notably a hydrocarbon-based oil.
The polymer particles of the dispersion preferably have a number-mean size ranging from 5 to 500 nm, notably ranging from 10 to 400 nm and better still ranging from 20 to 300 nm.
Method for Preparing the Dispersion (A)
Without this being limiting, in general, the dispersion according to the invention may be prepared in the following manner: The polymerization is performed in “dispersion”, i.e. by precipitation of the polymer being formed, with protection of the particles formed with one or more stabilizers, preferably one stabilizer.
When the nonaqueous medium is a nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil iii), the polymerization may be performed in an apolar organic solvent (synthesis solvent), followed by adding the nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil (which should be miscible with said synthesis solvent) and selectively distilling off the synthesis solvent.
The cosmetic agent(s), preferably the pigment(s), are added during the first step. According to another variant, the cosmetic agent(s), preferably the pigment(s), are added during the second step or after the second step.
A synthesis solvent which is such that the monomers of the stabilizing polymer and the free-radical initiator are soluble therein, and the polymer particles obtained are insoluble therein, so that they precipitate therein during their formation, is thus chosen.
In particular, the synthesis solvent chosen is one which is apolar and organic, preferably chosen from alkanes such as heptane or cyclohexane.
When the nonaqueous medium is a volatile hydrocarbon-based oil iii), the polymerization may be performed directly in said oil, which thus also acts as synthesis solvent. The monomers should also be soluble therein, as should the free-radical initiator, and the polymer of the particles which is obtained should be insoluble therein.
The cosmetic agent(s) v), preferably the pigment(s), may be added during the first step. According to another variant, the dye(s) and/or pigment(s) are added during the second step or after the second step.
A synthesis solvent which is such that the monomers of the stabilizing polymer and the free-radical initiator are soluble therein, and the polymer particles obtained are insoluble therein, so that they precipitate therein during their formation, is thus chosen.
In particular, the synthesis solvent chosen is one which is apolar and organic, preferably chosen from alkanes such as heptane or cyclohexane.
When the nonaqueous medium is a volatile hydrocarbon-based oil iii), the polymerization may be performed directly in said oil, which thus also acts as synthesis solvent. The monomers should also be soluble therein, as should the free-radical initiator, and the polymer of the particles which is obtained should be insoluble therein.
The monomers are preferably present in the synthesis solvent, before polymerization, in a proportion of 5% to 45% by weight. The total amount of the monomers may be present in the solvent before the start of the reaction, or a portion of the monomers may be added gradually as the polymerization reaction proceeds.
The polymerization is preferentially performed in the presence vi) of one or more free-radical initiators, notably of the type such as:
The polymerization is preferably performed at a temperature ranging from 70 to 110° C. and at atmospheric pressure.
The polymer particles i) are surface-stabilized, when they are formed during the polymerization, by means of the stabilizer ii).
The stabilization may be performed by any known means, and in particular by direct addition of the stabilizer ii), during the polymerization.
The stabilizer ii) is preferably also present in the mixture before polymerization of the monomers of the polymer of the particles i). However, it is also possible to add it continuously, notably when the monomers of the polymer of the particles i) are also added continuously.
From 10% to 30% by weight and preferably from 15% to 25% by weight of the stabilizer(s) may be used relative to the total weight of monomers used (stabilizers ii)+polymer particles i)).
The polymer particle dispersion (A) advantageously comprises from 30% to 65% by weight of solids relative to the total weight of said dispersion and preferably from 40% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of said dispersion.
The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a content of polymers of particle i)+dispersing polymers ii) ranging from 1% to 50% by weight and preferably ranging from 2% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A).
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the dispersion (A) according to the invention is an anhydrous composition.
The term “anhydrous” dispersion or composition refers to a dispersion or composition containing less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% of water, and notably free of water. Where appropriate, such small amounts of water may notably be introduced by ingredients of the composition that may contain residual amounts thereof.
According to another embodiment of the present patent application, the dispersion (A) is in inverse emulsion, i.e. of water-in-oil type (W/O). In this case, the composition comprises one or more surfactants, which are preferably nonionic. The inverse emulsions of (A) are preferably chosen in makeup, notably in mascaras.
The Composition (B)
Composition B of the process of the invention comprises one or more amine compounds iv).
iv) The Amine Compound(s):
The amine compounds used in the process of the invention are chosen from:
e) polyamines bearing several primary amine and/or secondary amine groups, and
f) amino alkoxysilanes.
The amine compound(s) used in the process according to the invention are notably chosen from amino alkoxysilane compounds, diamine compounds and triamine compounds.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyamine compound(s) particularly comprise from 2 to 20 carbon atoms; the polyamine compound(s) are notably nonpolymeric.
The term ‘nonpolymeric’ compound refers to one or more compounds which are not directly obtained via a monomer polymerization reaction.
Polyamine compounds that may notably be mentioned include N-methyl-1,3-diaminopropene, N-propyl-1,3-diaminopropane, N-isopropyl-1,3-diaminopropane, N-cyclohexyl-1,3-diaminopropane, 2-(3-aminopropylamino)ethanol, 3-(2-aminoethyl)aminopropylamine, bis(3-aminopropyl)amine, methylbis(3-aminopropyl)amine, N-(3-aminopropyl)-1,4-diaminobutane, N,N-dimethyldipropylenetriamine, 1,2-bis(3-aminopropylamino)ethane, N,N′-bis(3-aminopropyl)-1,3-propanediamine, ethylenediamine, 1,3-propylenediamine, 1,4-butylenediamine, lysine, cystamine, xylenediamine, tris(2-aminoethyl)amine and spermidine.
According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the amine compound(s) iv) are chosen from f) amino alkoxysilanes such as those of formula (IVa):
R′1—Si(OR′2)z(R′3)x (IVa)
in which formula (IVa):
Preferably, R′2 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
Preferably, R′2 represents a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
Preferably, R′2 represents an ethyl group.
Preferably, R′3 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
Preferably, R′3 represents a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
Preferably. R′3 represents a methyl or ethyl group.
Preferably, R′1 is an acyclic chain.
Preferably, R′1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based chain substituted with an amine NH2 or N(H)R group, with R representing a C1-C6 alkyl group, C3-C6 cycloalkyl, or C6 aromatic group.
Preferentially, R′1 is a saturated linear C2-C4 hydrocarbon-based chain substituted with an amine group NH2.
More preferentially, R′1 is a saturated linear C2-C4 hydrocarbon-based chain substituted with an amine group NH2.
Preferably, R′1 is a saturated linear C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based chain substituted with an amine group NH2.
R′2 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
R′3 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
Preferably, z is equal to 3.
Preferably, the amino alkoxysilane of formula (IVa) is chosen from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyttriethoxysilane, 3-(m-aminophenoxy)propyltrimethoxysilane, p-aminophenyltrimethoxysilane and N-(2-aminoethylaminomethyl)phenethyltrimethoxysilane.
Preferably, the amino alkoxysilane (IVa) is chosen from 3-aminopropyttriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane and N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane.
Preferably, the amino alkoxysilane (IVa) is 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES).
Preferably, the amine compound(s) are chosen from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), N-methyl-1,3-diaminopropane, N-propyl-1,3-diaminopropane, N-isopropyl-1,3-diaminopropane, N-cyclohexyl-1,3-diaminopropane, 2-(3-aminopropylamino)ethanol, 3-(2-aminoethyl)aminopropylamine, bis(3-aminopropyl)amine, methylbis(3-aminopropyl)amine, N-(3-aminopropyl)-1,4-diaminobutane, N,N-dimethyldipropylenetriamine, 1,2-bis(3-aminopropylamino)ethane, N,N′-bis(3-aminopropyl)-1,3-propanediamine, ethylenediamine, 1,3-propylenediamine, 1,4-butylenediamine and lysine.
Preferentially, the amine compound is chosen from ethylenediamine, 1,3-propylenediamine, 1,4-butylenediamine and 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES).
More preferentially, the amine compound is ethylenediamine or 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES).
The amine compound(s) may also be chosen from e) polyamines bearing several primary amine and/or secondary amine groups and in particular amine polymers, notably having a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 500 to 1 000 000, preferably ranging from 500 to 500 000, and preferentially ranging from 500 to 100 000.
As amine or polyamine polymers e), use may be made of poly((C2-C5)alkyleneimines), and in particular:
H2NCH2CH2CH2—Si(CH3)2—O—[Si(CH3)2—O]n-Si(CH3)2C4H9 (IV′d)
As polyamine compounds bearing several amino polymer primary amine and/or secondary amine groups e), use is preferably made of polydi(C1-C4)alkylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the chain end or on side chains.
Advantageously, the polyamine compounds e) used in the process according to the invention are chosen from polydi(C1-C4)alkylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the chain end and/or on side chains.
More preferentially, the amine compound(s) iv) contained in composition (B) of the process of the invention are chosen from those of formulae (IVb) and (IVe) as defined previously and even more preferentially (IV′b) and (IV′e) as defined previously.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, composition (B) also comprises one or more hydrocarbon-based oils iii) as defined previously. Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based oils contained in dispersion (A) and in composition (B) are identical.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the hydrocarbon-based oil(s) of composition (B) are chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, in particular the apolar oils described previously. Even more preferentially, the hydrocarbon-based oil(s) of composition (B) are isododecane.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, composition (B) is aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic. The term “aqueous-alcoholic” refers to a mixture of water and of a linear or branched C2-C4 alkanol, preferably ethanol.
According to one advantageous embodiment of the invention, composition (B) is aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic and preferably also comprises one or more chitosans and/or one or more polyamino acids, preferably polylysines.
According to another advantageous embodiment of the invention, composition (B) is aqueous and comprises one or more alkoxysilanes f) as defined previously in emulsion in water, in particular of water-in-oil (W/O) type.
According to yet another advantageous embodiment of the invention, composition (B) is aqueous and comprises one or more polyamines e) as defined previously in emulsion of oil-in-water (O/W) type.
Advantageously, the amine compound(s) used in the process according to the invention are used in a mole ratio of amine group of the amine compound iv)/ethylenically unsaturated anhydride compound of the anhydride b) as defined previously ranging from 0.01 to 10, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 5, preferentially ranging from 0, 1 to 2 and more preferentially ranging from 0.1 to 1.
The at least two-step process of the invention makes it possible to obtain deposits of cosmetic agents and in particular of pigments which have good resistance to the external attacking factors to which keratin materials may be subjected, notably good resistance to water and soap, shower gels and food oils.
In addition, the process of the invention makes it possible to trap nonvolatile compounds, notably oils, in order, for example, to improve the cosmeticity, or to give sheen to keratin materials, preferably the skin, notably facial skin such as the lips, and to do so in a manner that is resistant to external attacking factors.
Nonvolatile oils that may be mentioned include: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon-based plant oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids of 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam; synthetic esters and ethers, notably of fatty acids, for instance purcellin oil, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyidodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, fatty alkyl heptanoates, octanoates or decanoates; polyol esters, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters: fatty alcohols containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol; partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone-based fluoro oils; silicone oils, for instance volatile or nonvolatile, linear or cyclic polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS), which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, for instance cyclomethicones or dimethicones, optionally including a phenyl group, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenytrimethyldiphenylsiloxanes, diphenylmethyldimethyltrisiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, polymethylphenylsiloxanes; mixtures thereof.
These oils may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 60% by weight and better still from 0.1% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of dispersion (A).
Dispersion (A) and compositions (B) and (C) according to the invention may also comprise one or more dyestuffs chosen from liposoluble dyes and pulverulent dyestuffs, for instance the pigments, nacres and glitter flakes that are well known to those skilled in the art. The dyestuffs may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0% to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the dispersion or composition which comprises them, preferably from 0% to 10% by weight.
Dispersion (A) and compositions (B) and (C) according to the invention may also comprise one or more fillers, notably in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the dispersion or composition which comprises them.
v) The Cosmetic Active Agent(s)
The cosmetic active agent(s) of the invention are chosen from a) pigments, b) active agents for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, and c) UV-screening agents, and also d) mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment of the present patent application, the cosmetic active agent(s) of the invention are chosen from a) pigments.
According to a particular embodiment of the present patent application, the cosmetic active agent(s) of the invention are chosen from b) active agents for caring for keratin materials, preferably skincare active agents.
According to another particular embodiment of the present patent application, the cosmetic active agent(s) of the invention are chosen from c) UV-screening agents.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, dispersion (A) and/or composition (B) and/or composition (C) of the invention comprise v) one or more cosmetic active agents.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, dispersion (A) comprises v) one or more cosmetic active agents, preferably one or more pigments.
According to another particular embodiment of the invention, composition (B) comprises v) one or more cosmetic active agents, preferably one or more pigments.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, composition (C) comprises v) one or more cosmetic active agents, preferably one or more pigments.
The hair dye(s) more particularly represent from 0.001% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition which comprises them.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, dispersion (A) comprises v) one or more cosmetic active agents, in particular one or more pigments.
According to another particular embodiment of the invention, composition (B) comprises v) one or more cosmetic active agents, in particular one or more pigments.
According to yet another preferred embodiment of the invention, composition (C) comprises v) one or more cosmetic active agents, in particular one or more pigments.
The term “pigment” refers to any pigment, of synthetic or natural origin, which gives color to keratin materials. The solubility of the pigments in water at 25° C. and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is less than 0.05% by weight, and preferably less than 0.01%.
They are white or colored solid particles which are naturally insoluble in the hydrophilic and lipophilic liquid phases usually employed in cosmetics or which are rendered insoluble by formulation in the form of a lake, where appropriate. More particularly, the pigments have little or no solubility in aqueous-alcoholic media.
The pigments that may be used are notably chosen from the organic and/or mineral pigments known in the art, notably those described in Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology and in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry. Pigments that may notably be mentioned include organic and mineral pigments such as those defined and described in Ulmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry “Pigments, organic”, 2005 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim 10.1002/14356007.a20 371 and ibid, “Pigments. Inorganic, 1. General”, 2009, Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim10.1002/14356007.a20_243.pub3,
These pigments may be in pigment powder or paste form. They may be coated or uncoated. The pigments may be chosen, for example, from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lakes, pigments with special effects such as nacres or glitter flakes, and mixtures thereof.
The pigment may be a mineral pigment. The term “mineral pigment” refers to any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann's encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Among the mineral pigments that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of iron oxides, chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue and titanium oxide.
The pigment may be an organic pigment. The term “organic pigment” refers to any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann's encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments. The organic pigment may notably be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthakocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone compounds.
In particular, the white or colored organic pigments may be chosen from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthaiocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigment(s) used are pigment pastes of organic pigments such as the products sold by the company Hoechst under the name:
The pigments in accordance with the invention may also be in the form of composite pigments, as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may be composed notably of particles including:
The term “lake” refers to dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use. The mineral substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate and aluminum. Among the organic dyes, mention may be made of cochineal carmine.
Mention may be made, as examples of lakes, of the products known under the following names: D & C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (CI 45 370). D & C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D & C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D & C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D & C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1), D & C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D & C Red 33 (CI 17 200). D & C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D & C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D & C Green (CI 61 570), D & C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D & C Green 3 (CI 42 053) or D & C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).
The mineral substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate and aluminum.
Among the dyes, mention may be made of cochineal carmine. Mention may also be made of the dyes known under the following names: D & C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (CI 45 370). D & C Red 27 (CI 45 410). D & C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D & C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D & C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D & C Red 33 (CI 17 200). D & C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D & C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D & C Green (CI 61 570), D & C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D & C Green 3 (CI 42 053). D & C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).
An example of a lake that may be mentioned is the product known under the following name: D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).
The pigment(s) may also be pigments with special effects.
The term “pigments with special effects” refers to pigments that generally create a colored appearance (characterized by a certain shade, a certain vivacity and a certain level of luminance) that is nonuniform and that changes as a function of the conditions of observation (light, temperature, angles of observation, etc.). They thereby differ from colored pigments, which afford a standard uniform opaque, semitransparent or transparent shade.
Several types of pigments with special effects exist: those with a low refractive index, such as fluorescent, photochromic or thermochromic pigments, and those with a higher refractive index, such as nacres or glitter flakes.
Examples of pigments with special effects that may be mentioned include nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye notably of the abovementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs.
The nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or coppery color or tint.
As illustrations of nacres that may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may notably be made of gold-colored nacres sold notably by the company Engelhard under the name Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres sold notably by the company Merck under the names Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona), by the company Eckart under the name Prestige Bronze and by the company Engelhard under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold notably by the company Engelhard under the names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the names Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the brown-tinted nacres sold notably by the company Engelhard under the names Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite): the nacres with a copper tint sold notably by the company Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica) and by the company Eckart under the name Prestige Copper; the nacres with a red tint sold notably by the company Merck under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); the nacres with a yellow tint sold notably by the company Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red-tinted nacres with a golden tint sold notably by the company Engelhard under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); the black nacres with a golden tint sold notably by the company Engelhard under the name Nu-antique bronze 240 AB (Timica); the blue nacres sold notably by the company Merck under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), Dark Blue (117324) (Colorona); the white nacres with a silvery tint sold notably by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver; and the golden-green pinkish-orange nacres sold notably by the company Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona), and mixtures thereof.
In addition to nacres on a mica support, multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates such as alumina, silica, sodium calcium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum, may be envisaged.
Mention may also be made of pigments with an interference effect which are not attached to a substrate, such as liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker) or interference holographic glitter flakes (Geometric Pigments or Spectra f/x from Spectratek). Pigments with special effects also comprise fluorescent pigments, whether these are substances that are fluorescent in daylight or that produce an ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments and quantum dots, sold, for example, by the company Quantum Dots Corporation.
The variety of pigments that may be used in the present invention makes it possible to obtain a wide range of colors, and also particular optical effects such as metallic effects or interference effects.
The size of the pigment used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 μm, preferably between 20 nm and 80 μm and more preferably between 30 nm and 50 μm.
The pigments may be dispersed in the product by means of a dispersant.
The term “dispersant” refers to a compound which can protect the dispersed particles from agglomerating or flocculating. This dispersant may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several thereof, bearing one or more functionalities with strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they may become physically or chemically attached to the surface of the pigments. These dispersants also contain at least one functional group that is compatible with or soluble in the continuous medium. Said agent may be charged: it may be anionic, cationic, zwitterionic or neutral.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dispersants used are chosen from 12-hydroxystearic acid esters, more particularly, and from C8 to C20 fatty acid esters of polyols such as glycerol or diglycerol, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of approximately 750 g/mol, such as the product sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 by the company Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by the company Henkel, or polyhydroxystearic acid such as the product sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by the company Unigema, and mixtures thereof.
As other dispersants that may be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids, for instance Solsperse 17 000 sold by the company Avecia, and polydimethylsiloxane/oxypropylene mixtures such as those sold by the company Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185 and DC2-5225 C.
The pigments used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be surface-treated with an organic agent.
Thus, the pigments surface-treated beforehand that are useful in the context of the invention are pigments which have been completely or partially subjected to a surface treatment of chemical, electronic, electrochemical, mechanochemical or mechanical nature with an organic agent, such as those notably described in Cosmetics and Toiletries. February 1990, Vol. 105, pages 53-64, before being dispersed in the composition in accordance with the invention. These organic agents may be chosen, for example, from amino acids; waxes, for example camauba wax and beeswax; fatty acids, fatty alcohols and derivatives thereof, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearyl alcohol and lauric acid and derivatives thereof; anionic surfactants; lecithins; sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron, titanium, zinc or aluminum salts of fatty acids, for example aluminum stearate or laurate; metal alkoxides; polysaccharides, for example chitosan, cellulose and derivatives thereof; polyethylene: (meth)acrylic polymers, for example polymethyl methacrylates; polymers and copolymers containing acrylate units; proteins; alkanolamines; silicone compounds, for example silicones, polydimethylsiloxanes, alkoxysilanes, alkylsilanes and siloxysilicates; organofluorine compounds, for example perfluoroalkyl ethers; fluorosilicone compounds.
The surface-treated pigments that are useful in the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also have been treated with a mixture of these compounds and/or may have undergone several surface treatments.
The surface-treated pigments that are useful in the context of the present invention may be prepared according to surface-treatment techniques that are well known to those skilled in the art, or may be commercially available as is.
Preferably, the surface-treated pigments are coated with an organic layer.
The organic agent with which the pigments are treated may be deposited on the pigments by evaporation of solvent, chemical reaction between the molecules of the surface agent or creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the pigments.
The surface treatment may thus be performed, for example, by chemical reaction of a surface agent with the surface of the pigments and creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the pigments or the fillers. This method is notably described in patent U.S. Pat. No. 4,578,266.
An organic agent covalently bonded to the pigments will preferably be used.
The agent for the surface treatment may represent from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight and even more preferentially from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the surface-treated pigments.
Preferably, the surface treatments of the pigments are chosen from the following treatments:
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dispersant is present with organic pigments in dispersion (A), and/or composition (B) and/or (C) or with inorganic pigments in particulate form of submicron size.
The term “submicron” or “submicronic” refers to pigments having a particle size that has been micronized by a micronization method and having a mean particle size of less than a micrometer (μm), in particular between 0.1 and 0.9 μm, and preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 μm.
According to one embodiment, the dispersant and the pigment(s) are present in an amount (dispersant:pigment) of between 0.5:1 and 2:1, particularly between 0.75:1 and 1.5:1 or better still between 0.8:1 and 1.2:1.
According to a particular embodiment, the dispersant is suitable for dispersing the pigments and is compatible with a condensation-curable formulation.
The term “compatible” means, for example, that said dispersant is miscible in the oily phase of the composition or of the dispersion containing the pigment(s), and it does not retard or reduce the curing. The dispersant is preferably cationic.
The dispersant(s) may therefore have a silicone backbone, such as silicone polyether and dispersants of amino silicone type. Among the suitable dispersants that may be mentioned are:
According to a particular embodiment, the dispersant(s) are of aminosilicone type and are positively charged.
Mention may also be made of dispersants bearing chemical groups that are capable of reacting with the reagents of the oily phase and are thus capable of improving the 3D network formed from the aminosilicones. For example, dispersants of epoxy silicone pigments can react chemically with the amino silicone prepolymer amino group(s) to increase the cohesion of the amino silicone film comprising the pigment(s).
Preferably, the pigment(s) v) of the invention are chosen from carbon black, iron oxides, notably black iron oxides, and micas coated with iron oxide, triarylmethane pigments, notably blue and violet triarylmethane pigments, such as Blue 1 Lake, azo pigments, notably red azo pigments, such as D&C Red 7, an alkali metal salt of lithol red, such as the calcium salt of lithol red B.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the amount of pigments ranges from 0.5% to 40% and preferably from 1% to 20% relative to the weight of the composition and dispersion comprising them.
vi) The Plasticizer(s)
According to a particular embodiment, the process uses one or more plasticizers. Said plasticizer(s) may be present in composition (A) and/or (B) and/or (C).
The term “plasticizer” or “plasticizing agent” means an organic chemical compound, which is in solid state or in liquid state, at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure, and which is added to a composition comprising different types of polymerizable ingredients (monomers) to make the polymer more supple, more flexible, and/or to improve its mechanical strength. Plasticizers are known to those skilled in the art; mention may be made, for example, of “Plasticizers”, Encyclopedia of polymer Science and Technology, Helmut Reinecke, Rodrigo Navarro, Mónica Perez, https://doi.org/10.1002/0471440264.pst245.pub215 September 2011.
For the purposes of the invention, the plasticizers have a molecular weight of between 200 and 1000 g/mol, particularly between 300 and 700, preferably between 350 and 600. The agents are also organic compounds consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms and of one or more heteroatoms chosen from oxygen, sulfur and silicon atoms, in particular chosen from oxygen and silicon atoms, preferably at least 3 heteroatoms, even more preferentially between 4 and 10 heteroatoms, and which may contain one or more aryl groups such as benzyl. In particular, they comprise one or more groups chosen from esters, phthalate, benzoate, sulfonate, citrates and siloxanes.
Preferably, the plasticizer(s) of the invention are chosen from those of the phthalate, ester, citrate, benzoate, citrate and siloxane families.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the plasticizer(s) are chosen from compounds (V) and (Vi) below:
Rh—O—C(O)-L-[C(O)-Q-Ri]n (V)
in which formula (V):
in which formula (VI):
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compounds of formula (V) are chosen from the compounds of formula (V′):
Rh—O—C(O)-L-[C(O)—O—Ri]c (V′)
in which formula (V):
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compounds of formula (VI) are chosen from the compounds of formula (VI′):
in which formula (VI′):
In particular, the plasticizer(s) of the invention are chosen from: di-n-hexyl phthalate (DnHP), diisoheptyl phthalate, (DIHP), diheptyl phthalate (DnHP), bis(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate (DEHP), diheptylnonyl phthalate (DnHNP), di-n-octyldecyl phthalate (DNODP), diheptyinonylundecyl phthalate (DnHNUP), dilsononyl phthalate (DINP), dinonyl phthalate (DNP), di-n-nonyl phthalate (DnNP) diisodecyl phthalate (DIDP), di-n-nonyldecylundecyl phthalate (DnNDUP), dinonylundecyl phthalate (DnNUP), diundecyl phthalate (DUP), diisoundecyidodecyl phthalate (UDP), ditridecyl phthalate (DTDP), bis(2-ethylhexyl) terephthalate (DOTP), butylbenzyl phthalate (BBP), diheptylnonyl adipate (DnHNA), bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate (DEHA), diisononyl adipate (DINA), diisodecyl adipate (DIDA), triheptyinonyl trimellitate (TnHNTM), tris(2-ethythexyl) trimellitate (TOTM), triisononyl trimellitate (TINTM), bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate (DOS), bis(2-ethylhexyl) azelate (DOZ), tributyl citrate and trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane; preferably, the plasticizer(s) of the invention are chosen from: tri(C1-C6)alkyl citrates such as tributyl citrate and trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane.
The plasticizer(s) vi) of the invention may be present in composition (A) and/or in composition (B), and/or in another composition (C). Preferably, the plasticizer(s) of the invention are present in composition (A) or (C), preferably (A).
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the plasticizer(s) are present in an amount of between 5% and 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the polymer(s) a) to d) of the particles.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the plasticizers are present in an amount of between 0.5% and 30% by weight, in particular between 1% and 20%, preferably from 1.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A), and/or in composition (8), and/or in another composition (C), preferably relative to the total weight of composition (A).
The Process of the Invention:
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the process is a process for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin, preferably human skin and more preferentially facial skin such as the lips, comprising:
it being understood that:
According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the process is a process for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin, preferably human skin and more preferentially facial skin such as the lips, using compositions (A). (B) and (C), in which:
According to yet another embodiment of the invention, the process is a process for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin, preferably human skin and more preferentially facial skin such as the lips, using compositions (A), (B) and (C), in which:
At Least Two-Step Application Process:
According to an advantageous variant of the invention, the process of the invention is a process for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin, preferably human skin and more preferentially facial skin such as the lips, comprising:
According to another advantageous variant of the invention, the process of the invention is a process for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin, preferably human skin and more preferentially facial skin such as the lips, comprising:
According to yet another variant of the invention, the process of the invention is a process for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin, preferably human skin and more preferentially facial skin such as the lips, comprising:
According to yet another advantageous variant of the invention, the process of the invention is a process for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin, preferably human skin and more preferentially facial skin such as the lips, comprising:
According to a particularly preferred variant of the invention, the process of the invention is a process for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin, preferably human skin and more preferentially facial skin such as the lips, comprising:
According to another particular variant of the invention, the cosmetic agent(s) v) as defined previously, in particular the pigments, are in a composition (C). Said composition may be applied simultaneously with composition (A), or with composition (B). Preferably, composition (C) is applied after step 1), i.e. after the application of composition (A); more preferentially, compositions (A) and (B) do not comprise any hair dye and a composition (C) comprising one or more hair dyes v) as defined previously is applied after step 1) of the process of the invention, followed by the application to the keratin materials of composition (B).
The dispersion of the invention, dispersion (A), and compositions (B) and (C) are cosmetic, i.e. they comprise only cosmetically acceptable ingredients.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, dispersion (A) and compositions (B) and (C) are anhydrous.
According to another advantageous embodiment, dispersion (A) and composition (8) are anhydrous, and composition (C) is aqueous.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, composition (B) is aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic.
According to another particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, composition (C) is aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic.
According to yet another advantageous embodiment, dispersion (A) is anhydrous and composition (B) and composition (C) are aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic, preferably aqueous.
Compositions (B) and (C) and dispersion (A) according to the invention may comprise a cosmetic additive chosen from water, fragrances, preserving agents, fillers, oils, waxes, surfactants, moisturizers, vitamins, ceramides, antioxidants, free-radical scavengers, polymers, thickeners and dyestuffs.
Compositions (B) and (C) and dispersion (A) according to the invention may also comprise other dyestuffs, such as liposoluble dyes or water-soluble dyes. This dyestuff may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition containing them, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight.
The liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, D&C Red 17. D&C Green 6, p-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C Orange 5, quinoline yellow and annatto. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice or methylene blue.
According to one embodiment, dispersion (A) and compositions (B) and (C) according to the invention are anhydrous compositions.
Preferentially, the first step of the process of the invention is the application of dispersion (A) in one or more volatile apolar solvents, notably isododecane.
According to another variant, step 2) follows step 1) without intermediate rinsing or drying. Preferably, after applying dispersion (A) during step 1), there is a waiting time of between 1 minute and 6 hours, in particular between 10 minutes and 5 hours, more particularly between 30 minutes and 4 hours, and preferably about 3 hours, before applying composition (B).
If the first step is the step of applying composition (C) followed by the application of the oily dispersion (A) and then the application of composition (A) between the application of composition (C) (step 1) and the step of applying dispersion (A) (step 2), the keratin materials are preferably dried naturally.
If the first step is the step of applying the oily dispersion (A) and the second step is that of applying composition (C) and the third step is that of applying composition (B) between the application of composition (C) as defined previously (step 2) and the step of applying composition (B) (step 3), the keratin materials are preferably dried naturally.
If the first step is the application of the oily dispersion (A) followed by the application of composition (B) and then the application of composition (C) between the application of composition (C) (step 3) and the step of applying composition (B) (step 2), the keratin materials are preferably dried naturally.
The Kit
A subject of the invention is also a kit or device with several separate compartments comprising:
The composition packaging assembly is, in a known manner, any packaging that is suitable for storing cosmetic compositions (notably a bottle, tube, spray bottle or aerosol can).
A subject of the invention is also the oily dispersion (A) as defined previously, comprising v) the cosmetic agent(s) as defined previously, it being understood that when v) represents one or more pigment(s), then the dispersion is anhydrous and does not comprise any polyamine compound bearing several primary amine and/or secondary amine groups and does not comprise any amino alkoxysilanes.
A subject of the invention is also the oily dispersion (A) which is in an inverse emulsion (W/O) as defined previously.
The invention is illustrated in greater detail in the examples that follow.
The oily dispersions (A) are formed as a whole [particles i)+stabilizer ii)] containing:
The preparation of these oily dispersions was performed in a 1 liter pilot reactor. The synthesis is performed in two steps:
In a first step, isobornyl acrylate is polymerized in isododecane/ethyl acetate (60/40) in the presence of a small amount of ethyl acrylate and of a radical initiator (T21S). In the first step, the isobornyl acrylate/ethyl acrylate mass ratio is 92/8.
In the second step, the rest of the ethyl acrylate and the maleic anhydride are added in the presence of isododecane/ethyl acetate (60/40) and of the radical initiator Trigonox 21S (T21S).
After stripping, the polymer is at a solids content of 52% in the isododecane. The ratios employed to obtain the stabilizer and the particulate core are summarized in the table below:
Amount of Reagents:
Step 1:
Isododecane added between the two steps:
Step 2:
Experimental Protocol:
Isododecane/ethyl acetate (60/40), isobornyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate and T21S are introduced as feedstock into a reactor. The medium is heated to 90° C. under argon and with stirring. The solids content during this first step is 35.9%.
After heating for 2 hours, NMR indicates an isobornyl acrylate consumption of 97% (ethyl acrylate consumption: 97%).
After 2 hours of reaction, isododecane/ethyl acetate (60/40) are introduced into the feedstock. The medium is heated to 90° C.
Once the medium is at 90° C., ethyl acrylate/maleic anhydride, isododecane/ethyl acetate (60/40) and T21S are introduced over 2 hours by pouring. At the end of the introduction by pouring, the medium is milky. The solids content is 40%.
After 7 hours of synthesis, traces of the starting monomers remain.
1 L of isododecane and of ethyl acetate are then stripped out (NMR indicates that there are no more monomers and that the ethyl acetate has been totally removed from the dispersion). The solids content is about 52%.
The combination of particles i)+stabilizer ii) was prepared in the following manner:
The synthesis was performed in a 1 liter pilot reactor in two steps:
In a first step, isobornyl acrylate is polymerized in isododecane/ethyl acetate (60/40) in the presence of a small amount of ethyl acrylate and of a radical initiator (T21S). In the first step, the isobornyl acrylate/ethyl acrylate mass ratio is 92/8.
In the second step, the rest of the ethyl acrylate and the maleic anhydride are added in the presence of isododecane/ethyl acetate (60/40) and of the radical initiator Trigonox 21S (T21S).
After stripping, the polymer is at a solids content of 49% in the isododecane.
The ratios employed to obtain the stabilizer and the particulate core are summarized in the table below:
Amount of Reagents:
Step 1:
Isododecane added between the two steps:
Step 2:
Experimental Protocol:
Isododecane/ethyl acetate (60/40), isobornyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate and T21S are introduced as feedstock into the reactor. The medium is heated to 90° C. (nominal medium temperature) under argon and with stirring. The solids content during this first step is 35.9%. After heating for 2 hours, NMR indicates an isobornyl acrylate consumption of 98% (ethyl acrylate consumption: 97%).
After 2 hours of reaction, isododecane/ethyl acetate (60/40) are introduced into the feedstock. The medium is heated to 90° C.
Once the medium is at 90° C., ethyl acrylate/maleic anhydride, isododecane/ethyl acetate (60/40) and T21S are introduced over 2 hours by pouring. At the end of the introduction by pouring, the medium is milky. The solids content is 40%.
After 7 hours of synthesis, traces of the starting monomers remain.
1 L of isododecane and of ethyl acetate are then stripped out (NMR indicates that there are no more monomers and that the ethyl acetate has been totally removed from the dispersion). The solids content is about 49%.
Amine Compounds Used:
Reaction of these amine compounds with the anhydride functions of the copolymer makes it possible to trap the nonvolatile oils and nevertheless to obtain deposits that do not transfer, that are not tacky and that are resistant to food oils and are glossy and comfortable.
Process for Application to Keratin Materials:
In a first stage, a formulation containing an oily dispersion of particles (A) was prepared (examples 1 and 2). The evaluations are performed on BioSkin or on a contrast card.
In this case, the contrast card reference is: Byk company—Product: Black scrub panels P121-10N, category number: 5015—dimension 165×432 mm. The formulations were then applied onto a glass support of the type such as byko-charts, black scrub panels from the company Byk and were left to dry for 24 hours.
In a first stage, a film of each formulation is deposited on a BioSkin sample by means of a film spreader. The BioSkin sample has the following approximate dimensions: (L: 10 cm; l: 6 cm; e: 2.5 mm). The thickness of the wet deposit is 50 μm. The films are dried for 24 hours at room temperature. The dry mass of formulation deposited on the BioSkin ranges between 60 and 100 mg. Once the films are dry, the tests may be performed.
After drying for 24 hours, formulation (B) containing an amine compound (compound 1 or 2) was applied.
After drying for 24 hours, evaluations of the deposits are performed:
For each combination, the evaluations were performed for composition (A) after drying and after application of composition (A) and (B) after drying.
If a deposit shows good resistance, the cotton wool remains white and the deposit has not degraded. Conversely, if substantial transfer is observed, the cotton wool is red and the film is completely degraded. The same protocol is applied with water
Thus, a grade is given for the resistance to olive oil/water but also for the transfer resistance ranging from:
Below are two examples of a good candidate for very good resistance to olive oil and for transfer resistance and of a poor candidate:
The evaluation and grading are performed in the following manner:
Fragmentation Test of the Formulations on BioSkin
As for the tests of resistance to olive oil and to Scotch, films are applied only on a sample of BioSkin. After drying for one day, the BioSkin plate is removed, by hand force, 10 times in the same manner.
The result may then be observed on the formulation film (fragmentation or otherwise).
In this case, a grade is given ranging from No fragmentation: ++ to substantial fragmentation: −−
Two response examples are presented below:
Protocol for Measuring the Gloss
Protocol for Measuring the Gloss
A film with a wet thickness of 50 μm is deposited on a contrast card.
The contrast card reference is: Byk company—Product: Byko-charts opacity 2A, category number: 2810—dimension 140×254 mm
The gloss is subsequently measured using a reference glossmeter: Lange company—Product: REFO 3D Portable glossmeter with three-angle geometry
Composition (A1)
Composition (B1)
After application of compositions (A1) and (B1), deposits that are not tacky (++), transfer-resistant and resistant to daily attacking factors such as food oil (olive oil) and water (++) are finally observed, whereas when composition (B1) is not applied, the tackiness is very much present and unsatisfactory (−−).
Composition (A2)
Composition (B2.
After application of compositions (A2) and (B2), deposits that are not tacky (++), transfer-resistant (++) and resistant to daily attacking factors such as food oil (olive oil) and water (++) are finally observed, whereas when composition (B2) is not applied, the tackiness is very much present and unsatisfactory (−−).
Composition (A3)
Compostion (B3)
After application of compositions (A3) and (B3), deposits that are not tacky (++), transfer-resistant (++) and resistant to daily attacking factors such as food oil (olive oil) and water (++) are finally observed, whereas when composition (B3) is not applied, the tackiness is very much present and unsatisfactory (−−) and the resistance to oil is less correct (−).
Composition (A4)
Composition (B4)
After application of compositions (A4) and (B4), deposits that are not tacky (++), transfer-resistant (++) and resistant to daily attacking factors such as food oil (olive oil) and water (++) are finally observed, whereas when composition (B4) is not applied, the tackiness is very much present and unsatisfactory (−−) and the resistance to oil is not satisfactory either (−−).
Composition (A5)
Composition (B5)
After application of compositions (A5) and (B5), deposits that are not tacky (++), transfer-resistant (++) and resistant to daily attacking factors such as food oil (olive oil) and water (++) are finally observed, whereas when composition (B5) is not applied, the tackiness is very much present and unsatisfactory (−−) and the resistance to oil is not satisfactory either (−−).
Composition (A6)
Composition (B6)
After application of compositions (A6) and (B6), deposits that are not tacky (++), transfer-resistant (++) and resistant to daily attacking factors such as food oil (olive oil) and water (++) are finally observed, whereas when composition (B6) is not applied, the tackiness is very much present (−−) and unsatisfactory and the resistance to oil is not satisfactory either (−−).
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1859443 | Oct 2018 | FR | national |
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP2019/077630 | 10/11/2019 | WO | 00 |
