Patent Grant
7192453
The present invention relates to a method of colouring keratin-containing fibres, especially human hair, using developer dyes, that is to say dyes which are formed inside the pores of the substrate.
Colouring with the aid of developer dyes has been known for a long time and has also been generally used for dyeing cotton. The dyes and the colouring methods used therefor do not, however, provide satisfactory results for colouring hair.
For colouring hair, therefore, oxidation dyes are used in most cases; however, they too are not capable of satisfying all requirements. The fastness to washing properties are often inadequate and, in addition, the colouring conditions required often cause a greater or lesser amount of damage to the hair.
DE-A-30 09 833, furthermore, discloses a method of colouring hair wherein a priming cream comprising a specific coupling component and a diazonium salt in the acid range is applied to the hair and the azo coupling reaction is then brought about by means of reaction with an alkaline shampoo.
There is, at present, still a need for a colouring method which does not have the disadvantages of previous colouring methods, for example the limited stability of the colouring solutions or creams or the inadequate substantivity and penetration of the colouring compositions, or which has them to an insignificant degree.
The present invention relates to a method of colouring keratin-containing fibres, especially human hair, in which method a compound of formula
wherein
R is hydroxy or NHR1, R1 being hydrogen or C1–C4alkyl, and B is an aromatic or heterocyclic ring, is diazotised, and the resulting diazonium salt is applied at a pH of from 2 to 5 to the material being coloured and then, by means of increasing the pH to from 7 to 12, is fixed on the material in the form of an oligomeric or polymeric colorant.
The colorations obtained are distinguished by outstanding fastness to washing properties, which are significantly better than in the case of colorations with oxidation dyes, and there is virtually no damage to the hair. Moreover, there is no staining of the scalp, because the dye components do not penetrate into the skin and non-fixed dye can be washed off readily.
The method of the invention is distinguished by the fact that a system consisting of a coupling component and a separate diazonium salt is not used, but rather only a diazonium salt of the compound of formula (1), a so-called “precursor”, is used, which functions both as coupling component and as diazo component.
Preparation of the “precursors” by diazotisation of the compounds of formula (1) is carried out using generally known methods, in a manner known per se, for example with sodium nitrite in an acidic, for example hydrochloric-acid-containing or sulfuric-acid-containing, aqueous medium. The diazotisation may, however, also be carried out using other diazotisation agents, e.g. with nitrosylsulfuric acid. In the diazotisation, an additional acid may be present in the reaction medium, e.g. phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, hydrochloric acid or mixtures of such acids, e.g. mixtures of propionic acid and acetic acid. The diazotisation is advantageously carried out at temperatures of from −10 to 30° C., for example from −10° C. to room temperature.
The diazotised compounds of formula (1) correspond to formula
wherein R and B are as defined for formula (1) and A− is an anion.
Suitable anions A− are both inorganic and organic anions, for example halide, such as chloride, bromide or iodide, sulfate, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, formate, acetate and lactate.
The anion is generally determined by the preparation process. Preferably, the chlorides, hydrogen sulfates, sulfates, methosulfates or acetates are present.
Among the compounds of formula (1), the compounds of formulae
wherein
The compounds of formulae (1) to (6) are known, for example, from U.S. Pat. No. 1,892,480 and CH-A-154 172 or can be prepared in a manner known per se.
Preferred “precursors” are the compounds of formulae
wherein A1− is a chloride, sulfate, hydrogen sulfate, zinc chloride, fluoroborate, oxalate or 1,5-naphthalenedisulfonate anion or another aromatic sulfonate anion.
The colouring method according to the invention comprises applying to the material being coloured a diazonium salt of a compound of formula (1) under conditions such that, initially, a coupling reaction does not take place, which is achieved preferably by maintaining a pH of from 2 to 5, preferably from 3 to 4.
For carrying out the colouring method, the diazonium salt of the compound of formula (1) is applied in a solution, cream, emulsion or gel to the material being coloured. Lowering the pH is achieved in conventional manner by adding an acid or, preferably, a suitable buffer solution.
After a contact time of from 1 to 20 minutes, preferably from 2 to 10 minutes, the coupling reaction is brought about by increasing the pH to a value of from 7 to 12, especially from 7.5 to 10, more especially from 8 to 9, advantageously by applying an alkaline shampoo.
Any customary shampoo formulation based on anionic, or preferably non-ionic, surfactants, which has been adjusted to a pH of from 7 to 12 by the addition of, for example, sodium carbonate, can be used as the shampoo for increasing the pH and initiating the azo coupling.
The coloured material is then finished in customary manner, for example by rinsing with water and then drying.
The method according to the invention is used for colouring keratin-containing fibres and especially for colouring hair. The hair may be the hair of wigs or, especially, the living hair of animals and, more especially, humans.
The invention relates also to a colouring composition for carrying out the method according to the invention, which composition comprises
A preferred colouring composition for carrying out the method according to the invention comprises, as component a), the compound of formula (7), (8), (9), (10) or (11).
The multiplicity of shades of the dye, which results by the method according to the present invention, can be increased by combination with other dyes.
The present invention relates also to the colouration of hair with a dye, which results by the method according to the present invention, and at least one other dye.
The dye, which results by the combination of at least one capped diazonium compound and at least one coupling compound, can be combined with dyes of the same or different class of dyes, especially with direct dyes, oxidation dyes; dye precursor combinations of a coupler compound and a diazotized compound, or a capped diazotized compound; and/or cationic reactive dyes.
Direct dyes are natural or synthetic, they are uncharged, cationic or anionic, such as acid dyes.
Oxidation dye denotes also for oxidation dye precursors, which are from the group of the developer and coupler compounds.
In the context of the invention the single classes of dyes comprise the dyes defined in the Color Index of the Society of Textile Chemist and Colorist.
Preferably the compositions, formulations, methods and processes comprise at least a single compound of formula (1) or (1a).
In the following suitable direct dyes for the combination with the method according to the present invention are described.
Directs dyes are for example described in “Dermatology”, edited by Ch. Culnan, H. Maibach, Verlag Marcel Dekker Inc., New York, Basle, 1986, Vol. 7, Ch. Zviak, The Science of Hair Care, chapter 7, pages 248–250, and
in “Europäisches Inventar der Kosmetikrohstoffe”, 1996, published by The European Commission, obtainable in diskette form from the Bundesverband der deutschen Industrie und Handelsunternehmen für Arzneimittel, Reformwaren und Körperpflegemittel e.V., Mannheim.
Preferred direct dyes, which are suitable as single dye or in combination with other direct dyes, especially for semi permanent dyeing, are:
Also, cationic azo dyes, for example according to GB-A-2 319 776 as well as the oxazine dyes described in DE-A-299 12 327 and mixtures thereof with the other direct dyes mentioned therein, are likewise suitable for combination.
Preferred direct dyes, which are suitable as single dye or in combination with other direct dyes or oxidative dyes and oxidization agents, especially for semi permanent dyeing and permanent dyeing, are:
In the following suitable cationic dyes for the combination with the method according to the present invention are described.
Preferred cationic dyes are described
More preferred are cationic dyes such as Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 or Basic Red 51, or cationic dyes as described in WO 01/66646, especially cationic dye of example 4, or cationic dyes as described in WO 02/31056, especially cationic dye of example 6, compound of formula 106.
Also very suitable for combination with the method according to the invention are cationic nitroaniline and anthraquinone dyes, for example those described in the following patent specifications: U.S. Pat. No. 5,298,029, especially in column 2, line 33 to column 5, line 38; U.S. Pat. No. 5,360,930, especially in column 2, line 38 to column 5, line 49; U.S. Pat. No. 5,169,403, especially in column 2, line 30 to column 5, line 38; U.S. Pat. No. 5,256,823, especially in column 4, line 23 to column 5, line 15; U.S. Pat. No. 5,135,543, especially in column 4, line 24 to column 5, line 16; EP-A-818 193, especially on page 2, line 40 to page 3, line 26; U.S. Pat. No. 5,486,629, especially in column 2, line 34 to column 5, line 29; and EP-A-758 547, especially on page 7, line 48 to page 8, line 19.
Also very suitable for combination with the method according to the invention are mixtures of cationic dyes with other dyes:
Also cationic azo dyes, e.g. according to GB-A-2 319 776, as well as the oxazine dyes described in DE-A-29 912 327 and mixtures thereof with the other direct dyes mentioned therein, can likewise readily be combined.
More preferred are cationic dyes such as Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 or Basic Red 51, or as described in WO 01/66646, especially cationic dye of example 4, or as described in WO 02/31056, especially cationic dye of example 6, compound of formula 106.
Especially preferred direct dye mixtures comprising a dye of formula (1) of WO 01/66646, especially a direct dye of example 4, and/or or a dye of formula (2) of WO 02/31056, especially a direct dye of example 6, and/or Basic Yellow 87, and/or Basic Red 51, and/or Basic Orange 31.
No particular limitation is imposed on the acid dye used in the present invention so far as it is a water-soluble acid dye.
For the purpose of further modification of color shades, the method of colouring according to the invention may comprise customary acid dyes, for example from the group of the compounds known by the international names (Color index), or trade names.
Preferred examples of acid dyes are described in U.S. Pat. No. 6,248,314, they include Red Color No. 120, Yellow Color No. 4, Yellow Color No. 5, Red Color No. 201, Red Color No. 227, Orange Color No. 205, Brown Color No. 201, Red Color No. 502, Red Color No. 503, Red Color No. 504, Red Color No. 506, Orange Color No. 402, Yellow Color No. 402, Yellow Color No. 406, Yellow Color No. 407, Red Color No. 213, Red Color No. 214, Red Color No. 3, Red Color No. 104, Red Color No. 105(1), Red Color No. 106, Green Color No. 2, Green Color No. 3, Orange Color No. 207, Yellow Color No. 202(1), Yellow Color No. 202(2), Blue Color No. 202, Blue Color No. 203, Blue Color No. 205, Blue Color No. 2, Yellow Color No. 203, Blue Color No. 201, Green Color No. 201, Blue Color NO. 1, Red Color No. 230(1), Red Color No. 231, Red Color No. 232, Green Color No. 204, Green Color No. 205, Red Color No. 401, Yellow Color No. 403(1), Green Color No. 401, Green Color No. 402, Black Color No. 401 and Purple Color No. 401, especially Black Color No. 401, Purple Color 401, Orange Color No. 205.
These acid dyes may be used either single or in any combination thereof.
Preferably they are incorporated in a proportion of 0.001–5% by weight (hereinafter indicated merely by “%”), particularly 0.005–4%, more particularly 0.2–3% based on the total weight of the composition, from the viewpoint of practical use in that a sufficient hair-dyeing effect is achieved, and the hand skin is scarcely smeared.
Also very suitable for combination with the method according to the invention are uncharged dyes, for example from the group of the nitroanilines, nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, anthraquinones, indophenols, phenazines, phenothiazines, bispyrazolons or bispyrazol aza derivatives or methines.
Also very suitable for combination with the method according to the invention are oxidation dyes.
Suitable oxidation dyes are described for example in
Oxidation dye precursors of the developer type are for example primary aromatic amines, which are substituted in the para- or ortho-position with a substituted or unsubstituted hydroxy- or amino residue, or diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-amino-pyrazol derivatives, 2,4,5,6-tetraminopyrimidin derivatives, or unsaturated aldehydes as described in German Patent Application 19 717 224, especially on page 2, line 50 to line 66 and on page 3 line 8 to line 12, or cationic developer compounds as described in WO 00/43367, especially on page, 2 line 27 to page 8, line 24, in particular on page 9, line 22 to page 11, line 6.
Also very suitable for combination with the method according to the invention are developer dyes in their physiological compatible acid addition salt form, such as hydrochloride or sulfate. Developer dyes which have aromatic OH substituents are also suitable in their salt form with base, such as alkalimetalphenolates.
Preferred developer compounds are:
More preferred developer dyes are p-phenylendiamine, p-toluylendiamine, p-aminophenol, m-aminophenol, o-aminophenol, N,N-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylendiamine sulfate, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole sulfate, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 1-(2′-hydroxyethyl)-2,5-diaminobenzene, 2,6-dimethoxy-3,5-diamino-pyridine, hydroxypropyl-bis-(N-hydroxyethyl-p-phenylenediamine) hydrochloride, hydroxyethyl-p-phenylendiamine sulfate, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-methylaminophenol sulfate, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 4,5-diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1H-pyrazol, 4-amino-m-cresol, 6-amino-m-cresol, 5-amino-6-chloro-cresol, 2,4,5,6-tetraminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine sulfate.
Preferred oxidation dye precursors of the coupler type are for example m-phenylendiamine derivatives, naphthole, resorcine and resorcine derivatives, pyrazolone and m-aminophenol derivatives.
Especially preferred coupler compounds are N-(3-dimethylamino-phenyl)-urea, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 2-methyl-5-hydroxyethylaminophenol, 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol, 2-amino-4-[(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-anisole, p-aminophenol, m-aminophenol and its derivatives, especially 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 5-(3-hydroxypropylamino)-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2,6-dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, 5-(2′-hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-(diethylamino)-phenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1,3-dihydroxy-5-(methylamino)-benzene, 3-(ethyl-amino)-4-methylphenol and 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol,
More especially preferred coupler compounds are toluene-2,5-diamine sulfate, 1-naphthol, 1,5-, 2,7- and 1,7-dihydroxynaphthaline, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcine, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2,6-di-hydroxyethylaminotoluene, 2-methyl-5-dihydroxyethylaminophenol, 2,4-diaminophenoxy-ethylol hydrochloride, 2-methylresorcine, 5-methylresorcine, 2,5-dimethylresorcine, 3,4-methylenedioxyphenol, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole sulfate, 2,6-di-(beta-hydroxy-ethylamino)-toluene, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 6-hydroxyindol, 2-amino-3hydroxypyridine, 2,6-dimethoxy-3,5-pyridinediamine hydrochloride and 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine.
Most preferred coupler compounds are 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2,6-di-(beta-hydroxyethylamino)-toluol, 2-methylresorcine and 1-naphthol.
The developer/-coupler combination 2,4,5,6-Tetraminopyrimidine and 2-Methylresorcine are preferred for assessing of red shades, or
p-Toluenediamine and 4-Amino-2-hydroxytoluene are preferred for assessing of blue-violet shades, or
p-Toluenediamine and 2-Amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole are preferred for assessing of blue shades, or
p-Toluenediamine and 2,4-Diamino-phenoxyethynol are preferred for assessing of blue shades, or
3-Methyl-4-aminophenol and 4-Amino-2-hydroxytlouene are preferred for assessing of orange shades, or
p-Toluenediamine and resorcine are preferred for assessing of brown-green shades, or
p-Toluenediamine and 1-Naphthol are preferred for assessing of blue-violet shades, or
p-Toluenediamine and 2-methylresorcine are preferred for assessing of brown-gold shades.
Further, the colouring method according to the present invention may also contain autooxidizable compounds, such as, for example benzene, indol, or indoline, especially 5,6-dihydroxyindol or 5,6-dihydroxyindoline derivatives as described in WO 99/20234, especially on page 26, line 10 to page 28, line 15, or in WO 00/28957 on page 2, third paragraph.
Preferred autooxidizable benzene derivatives are:
Preferred autooxidizable indol derivatives are:
Preferred autooxidizable indoline derivatives are:
The colouring method according to the present invention also concerns the joint use of at least two different developers and at least one coupler compound, or combinations of at least two different couplers and at least one developer compound. Such combinations are for example described in German Patent Application 197 172 24, especially on page 3, line 31 to page 5, line 8.
In addition, the colouring method according to the present invention may also contain naturally occurring dyes, such as, for example, henna red, henna neutral, henna black, camomile blossom, sandalwood, black tea, Rhamnus frangula bark, sage, campeche wood, madder root, catechu, sedre and alkanet root. Such colouring methods are described, for example, in EP-A-404 868, especially on page 3, line 55 to page 4, line 9.
The present invention also describes formulations, which are used for the colouration of keratin fibres, especially human hair.
The formulations are applicable on human hair in different technical forms. The specific technical form may be chosen in view of the envisaged application and/or dye or dye composition. Technical forms of formulation are for example a solution, especially a thickened watery or watery alcoholic solution, a cream, foam, a gel, or an emulsion.
Preferred forms of formulations are ready to use compositions or a multi-compartment dyeing device or ‘kit’ or any of the multi-compartment packaging systems with compartments as described for example as described in U.S. Pat. No. 6,190,421, column 2, lines 16 to 31.
The colouring compositions for carrying out the method according to the invention may furthermore comprise any active ingredient, additive or adjuvant known for such preparations.
Adjuvants that are suitable for such formulations are in general customary in the field hair-colouring, such as for example surfactants or tensides, solvents, bases, acids, perfumes, polymeric adjuvant, thickeners and light stabilisers.
Suitable combinations of the colouring compositions for carrying out the method according to the invention with adjuvant used in the colouring of hair, for example with
The colouring composition for carrying out the method according to the invention in many cases comprise at least one surfactant, there being suitable in principle anionic and also zwitterionic, ampholytic, non-ionic and cationic surfactants. In many cases, however, it has proved advantageous to select the surfactants from anionic, zwitterionic and non-ionic surfactants.
Anionic surfactants suitable for use in the colouring compositions for carrying out the method according to the invention include all anionic surface-active substances that are suitable for use on the human body. Such substances are characterised by an anionic group that imparts water solubility, for example a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group, and a lipophilic alkyl group having approximately from 10 to 22 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and also hydroxy groups may be present in the molecule. The following are examples of suitable anionic surfactants, each in the form of sodium, potassium or ammonium salts or mono-, di- or tri-alkanolammonium salts having 2 or 3 carbon atoms in the alkanol group:
Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having from 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, and also especially salts of saturated and especially unsaturated C8–C22carboxylic acids, such as oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and palmitic acid.
Surface-active compounds that carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one —COO(−) or —SO3(−) group in the molecule are termed zwitterionic surfactants. Zwitterionic surfactants that are especially suitable are the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and also cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the CTFA name cocoamidopropyl betaine.
Ampholytic surfactants are to be understood as meaning surface-active compounds that, in addition to a C8–C18-alkyl or -acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one —COOH or —SO3H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants include N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids, each having approximately from 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Ampholytic surfactants to which special preference is given are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C12–C18acylsarcosine.
Non-ionic surfactants are described in WO 00/10519, especially page 45, line 11 to page 50, line 12.
Non-ionic surfactants contain as the hydrophilic group, for example, a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups.
Such compounds are, for example:
Examples of cationic surfactants that can be used in the colouring compositions for carrying out the method according to the invention are especially quaternary ammonium compounds. Preference is given to ammonium halides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyidimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryidimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride. Further cationic surfactants that can be used in accordance with the invention are quaternised protein hydrolysates.
Alkylamidoamines, especially fatty acid amidoamines, such as the stearylamidopropyl-dimethylamine obtainable under the name Tego Amid® 18, are distinguished not only by a good conditioning action but also especially by their good biodegradability.
Quaternary ester compounds, so-called “esterquats”, such as the methyl hydroxyalkyl-dialkoyloxyalkylammonium methosulfates marketed under the trademark Stepantex®, are also very readily biodegradable.
An example of a quaternary sugar derivative that can be used as cationic surfactant is the commercial product Glucquat® 100, according to CTFA nomenclature a “lauryl methyl gluceth-10 hydroxypropyl dimonium chloride”.
The alkyl-group-containing compounds used as surfactants may be single substances, but the use of natural raw materials of vegetable or animal origin is generally preferred in the preparation of such substances, with the result that the substance mixtures obtained have different alkyl chain lengths according to the particular starting material used.
The surfactants that are addition products of ethylene and/or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols or derivatives of such addition products may either be products having a “normal” homologue distribution or products having a restricted homologue distribution. “Normal” homologue distribution is to be understood as meaning mixtures of homologues obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Restricted homologue distributions, on the other hand, are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkali metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkali metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products having restricted homologue distribution may be preferred.
Examples of further active ingredients, adjuvants and additives are as follows:
In the context of the present invention, oxidizing agents are understood to be any oxidizing agent customarily used for oxidative hair colouring, for example dilute hydrogen peroxide solutions, hydrogen peroxide emulsions or hydrogen peroxide gels, alkaline earth metal peroxides, organic peroxides, such as urea peroxides, melamine peroxides, or alkalimetalbromat fixations are also applicable if a shading powder on the basis of semi-permanent, direct hair dyes is used.
Preferred oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide, preferred in about 2 to 30% by weight, more preferred in 3 to 20% by weight, and most preferred in 6 to 12% by weight of the total weight of a watery composition such as a solution, dispersion, a gel or emulsion.
The watery composition can comprise all customary components, which are used for the different applications of oxidizing agent compositions as described in K. Schrader, “Grundlagen und Rezepturen der Kosmetika”, 2. Aufl. (1989), page 832–840.
Further preferred oxidizing agents are
An oxidizing agent may be present in the colouring compositions for carrying out the method according to the invention preferably in an amount of from 0.01% to 6%, especially from 0.01% to 1%, based on the total dyeing composition.
Preferred catalysts are metal ions, such as for example Zn2+, Cu2+, Fe2+, Fe3+, Mn2+, Mn4+, Li+, Mg2+, Ca2+ and Al3+, preferably Zn2+, Cu2+ and Mn2+.
The metal ions are applicable in any physiological suitable salts form. Preferred salts are acetate, sulfate, halogenide, lactate and tartrate.
Alkalimetalsulfits, such as sodium-, potassium-, lithium-sulfite, Alkalimetaldisulfits, such as sodium-, potassium-, lithium-disulfite, ascorbic acid, tert.-Butylhydrochinon and Ammoniumthiolactat.
In general, the coloration with an oxidative agent is conducted in the presence of a base. Bases are for example ammonia, alkali metal carbonates, earth metal carbonates, alkanol amines, such as for example mono-, di- or triethanolamine, alkali metal hydroxides, earth metal hydroxides, compounds of the formula
wherein,
Alkali metal is for example sodium, potassium or lithium.
Earth metal is for example magnesium or calcium.
Acids are inorganic or organic acids, such as hydrochloride, tartrat acid, citric acid, ascorbine acid and phosphor acid.
The use of UV absorbers can effectively protect natural and dyed hair from the damaging rays of the sun and increase the wash fastness of dyed hair.
Suitable UV absorbers the colouring compositions for carrying out the method according to the invention are:
In addition to the triazine UV absorbers described in WO 98/22447, the cosmetic formulations can also contain one or more than one further UV protective of the following substance classes:
Examples of (synergistic) combinations of UV absorbers in preparations are also described in the following table. The combinations of UV filters are useful to protect hair and/or natural or artificial hair color (ratio of UV absorbers in columns C1–C12).
The following examples C1–C12 illustrate combinations of UV absorbers and antioxidants in cosmetic preparations which are useful to protect hair and natural or artificial hair color (% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition).
Preference is given to the use of mixing ratios of triazine derivatives of formula 1–8/further light-protective agents from 1:99 to 99:1, especially from 1:95 to 95:1 and preferably from 10:90 to 90:10, based on weight. Of special interest are mixing ratios of from 20:80 to 80:20, especially from 40:60 to 60:40 and preferably approximately 50:50. Such mixtures can be used, inter alia, to improve solubility or increase UV absorption.
Synergistic effects are observed when UV absorbers are used in combination with antioxidants. Examples of antioxidants that can be used are listened in WO 01/36396 (pages 11–18), U.S. Pat. No. 5,922,310 and U.S. Pat. No. 4,786,493.
Examples of UV absorbers used in addition to the uncharged and cationic benzotriazole UV absorbers in the formulations without limitation to those listed in the following might be benzophenone-type substances such as benzophenone-1, benzophenone-2, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5 (sodium salt) or benzotriazol-type substances such as benzenesulfonic acid, 3-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-hydroxy-5-(1-methylpropyl)-, monosodium salt; 2-(5-chloro-2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-6-(1,1-dimethylethyl)-4-methyl-phenol; 2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-6-dodecyl-4-methyl-phenol, branched and linear. Typical ingredients in the oil phase of emulsions (water in oil, oil in water or triple emulsion) or used in hair oils can be chosen from the following substance groups without limiting the kind of lipophilic ingredients to those substances:
Suitable cosmetic preparations may contain usually from 0.05 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of one or more UV absorbers.
Preferred are the cosmetic preparations contain at least one triazine derivative UV absorber, for example, from 0.1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight and especially from 0.5 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, and the cosmetic preparations contain at least one cationic benzotriazole from 0.05–20% by weight, preferred from 0.1–20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Typical cosmetic formulations containing uncharged and/or cationic benzotriazoles and/or antioxidants alone or in combinations are rinse-off products (e.g. shampoos, hair rinses, conditioners etc.),
Suitable cosmetic formulations are:
The final formulations listed may exist in a wide variety of presentation forms, for example:
Of special importance as cosmetic preparations for the hair are the above-mentioned preparations for hair treatment, especially hair-washing preparations in the form of shampoos, hair conditioners, hair-care preparations, e.g. pre-treatment preparations, hair tonics, styling creams, styling gels, pomades, hair rinses, treatment packs, intensive hair treatments, hair-straightening preparations, liquid hair-setting preparations, hair foams and hairsprays. Of special interest are hair-washing preparations in the form of shampoos.
A shampoo has, for example, the following composition: from 0.01 to 5% by weight of a UV absorber according to the invention, 12.0% by weight of sodium laureth-2-sulfate, 4.0% by weight of cocoamidopropyl betaine, 3.0% by weight of sodium chloride, and water ad 100%.
Any known process suitable for the preparation of microparticles can be used for the preparation of the micronised UV absorbers, for example:
As grinding apparatus for the preparation of the micronised organic UV absorbers there may be used, for example, a jet mill, ball mill, vibratory mill or hammer mill, preferably a high-speed mixing mill. The grinding is preferably carried out with a grinding aid, for example an alkylated vinylpyrrolidone polymer, a vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer, an acyl glutamate, an alkyl polyglucoside, ceteareth-25 or a phospholipid.
The micronised UV absorbers so obtained usually have an average particle size that is from 0.02 to 2 μm, preferably from 0.05 to 1.5 μm, and more especially from 0.1 to 1.0 μm.
The UV absorbers can also be used dry in powder form. For that purpose the UV absorbers are subjected to known grinding methods, such as vacuum atomization, countercurrent spray-drying etc. Such powders have a particle size of from 0.1 μm to 2 μm. To avoid the occurrence of agglomeration, the UV absorbers can be coated with a surface-active compound prior to the pulverisation process, for example with an anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactant, e.g. a phospholipid or a known polymer, such as PVP, or an acrylate. The colouring compositions for carrying out the method according to the invention may further comprise antimicrobial agents.
Typical antimicrobial preservatives and antimicrobial actives used in formulations (in most cases the INCI name of the antimicrobial substances is mentioned):
Combinations with natural antimicrobials or chemically modified natural substances with antimicrobial activities such as chitosans and chitosan derivatives, farnesol, plant extracts such as clove oil, blue cypres oil etc. can be also used.
For use on human hair, the dyeing compositions can usually be incorporated into an aqueous cosmetic carrier. Suitable aqueous cosmetic carriers include, for example, creams, sprays, emulsions, gels, powders and also surfactant-containing foaming solutions, e.g. shampoos or other preparations, that are suitable for use on keratin-containing fibers. Such forms of use are described in detail in Research Disclosure 42448 (August 1999). If necessary, it is also possible to incorporate the dyeing compositions into anhydrous carriers, as described, for example, in U.S. Pat. No. 3,369,970, especially column 1, line 70 to column 3, line 55. The dyeing compositions according to the invention are also excellently suitable for the colouring method described in DE-A-3 829 870 using a colouring comb or a colouring brush.
Further carriers for dying compositions are for example described in “Dermatology”, edited by Ch. Culnan, H. Maibach, Verlag Marcel Dekker Inc., New York, Basle, 1986, Vol. 7, Ch. Zviak, The Science of Hair Care, chapter 7, pages 248–250, especially on page 243, line 1 to page 244, line 12.
Suitable formulations of cationic dyes, which can be used in the colouring compositions for carrying out the method according to the invention are described for example in
Preferred formulations of cationic dyes with other dyes, which can be used in the colouring compositions for carrying out the method according to the invention, are:
Cationic dyes may be present in the colouring compositions for carrying out the method according to the invention preferably in an amount of from 0.001% to 5%, especially from 0.01% to 1%, based on the total dyeing composition.
The pH value of the ready-to-use dyeing preparations is usually from 2 to 11, preferably from 5 to 10.
The constituents of the aqueous carrier are used in the colouring compositions for carrying out the method according to the invention in the amounts customary for that purpose; for example emulsifiers may be used in concentrations of from 0.5 to 30% by weight and thickeners in concentrations of from 0.1 to 25% by weight of the total dyeing composition.
If direct dyes are used together with oxidation dyes, they may be stored separately or together.
It is preferred to store the oxidation dyes and direct dyes, which are not stable to reduction, separate
They may be stored in a liquid to paste-like preparation (aqueous or non-aqueous) or in the form of a dry powder.
When the dyes and adjuvants are stored together in a liquid preparation, the preparation should be substantially anhydrous in order to reduce reaction of the compounds.
When they are stored separately, the reactive components are intimately mixed with one another only immediately before use. In the case of dry storage, before use a defined amount of hot (from 50 to 80° C.) water is usually added and a homogeneous mixture prepared.
One preferred method of applying direct dyes containing formulations on hair is by using a multi-compartment dyeing device or “kit” or any other multi-compartment packaging system, as described for example in WO 97/20545 on page 4, line 19 to line 27.
The colouring compositions for carrying out the method according to the invention may combined with a suitable ready-to-use composition for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin, comprising an oxidizing agent, at least one direct dye and at least one oxidation dye precursor, as described in U.S. Pat. No. 6,190,421, in column 1, line 65 to column 3, line 65, especially in column 10, line 62 to column 12, line 65.
Preferably, such a ready-to-use composition is prepared according to a first preferred embodiment by a process which comprises a preliminary step which involves separately storing, on the one hand, a composition (A) comprising, in a medium which is suitable for dyeing, at least one developer compound, especially selected from para-phenylenediamines and bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, and the acid-addition salts thereof, at least one coupler, especially selected from meta-phenylenediamines and the acid-addition salts thereof, and at least one cationic direct dye, on the other hand, a composition (B) containing, in a medium which is suitable for dyeing, at least one oxidizing agent and mixing them together at the time of use before applying this mixture to the keratin fibers.
According to a second preferred embodiment for the preparation of the ready-to-use dye composition, the process includes a preliminary step which involves separately storing, on the one hand, a composition (A) comprising, in a medium which is suitable for dyeing, at least one developer compound, especially selected from para-phenylenediamines and bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, and the acid-addition salts thereof, at least one coupler compound, especially selected from meta-phenylenediamines and the acid-addition salts thereof; on the other hand, a composition (A′) comprising, in a medium which is suitable for dyeing, at least one cationic direct dye and, lastly, a composition (B) containing, in a medium which is suitable for dyeing, at least one oxidizing agent as defined above, and mixing them together at the time of use before applying this mixture to the keratin fibers.
The composition (A′) used according to this second variant of the process in accordance with the invention can optionally be in powder form, the cationic direct dye(s) in accordance with the invention itself (themselves) constituting, in this case, all of the said composition (A′) or optionally being dispersed in an organic and/or inorganic pulverulent excipient.
When it is present in the composition A′, the organic excipient can be of synthetic or plant origin and is selected in particular from crosslinked and non-crosslinked synthetic polymers, polysaccharides such as celluloses and modified or unmodified starches, as well as natural products containing them such as sawdust and plant gums (guar gum, carob gum, xanthan gum, etc.).
When it is present in the composition (A′), the inorganic excipient can contain metal oxides such as titanium oxides, aluminium oxides, kaolin, talc, silicates, mica and silicas.
An very suitable excipient in the colouring compositions for carrying out the method according to the invention is sawdust.
The powdered composition (A′) can also contain binders or coating products in an amount which preferably does not exceed approximately 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition (A′).
These binders are preferably selected from oils and liquid fatty substances of inorganic, synthetic, animal or plant origin.
The composition (A′) may optionally also contain other adjuvants, in powdered form, in particular surfactants of any kind, hair conditioners such as, for example, cationic polymers, etc.
Another subject of the invention is a multi-compartment dyeing device or “kit” or any other multi-compartment packaging system, as described for example in U.S. Pat. No. 6,228,129, especially in column 26, lines 13 to 24, especially in column 26, line 26 to column 27, line 9, or. A first compartment which contains the composition (A) as defined above, an optional second compartment contains the composition (A′) as defined above, when it is present, and a third compartment contains the oxidizing composition (B) as defined above. These devices can be equipped with means which allow the desired mixture to be applied to the hair, such as the devices described in French patent FR-2,586,913, the disclosure of which is specifically incorporated by reference herein.
An oxidizing agent, which may be added to the colouring compositions for carrying out the method according to the invention containing composition, comprises an oxidizing agent and a base.
Further, this composition comprises for this oxidizing agent containing composition customary adjuvant and additives.
The formulations are for example a solution, especially a thickened watery or watery alcoholic solution, a cream, foam, a gel, a powder or an emulsion.
In general, preference is given to a cream formulation, a gel formulation or a foam formulation, and especially a foam formulation.
But, if stability- or solubility-problems arise it may of advantage to use powder formulation as for example described in DE 197 13 698, page 2, line 26 to 54 and page 3, line 51 to page 4, line 25, and page 4, line 41 to page 5 line 59.
The oxidizing agent (calculated as hydrogen peroxide) is present in this composition in 0.5 to 12% by weight, in particular from 1 to 6% by weight based on the totals weight of the oxidizing agent containing composition.
The pH-value of the oxidizing agent containing composition is usually about 2 to 7, and in particular about 3 to 6.
An oxidizing agent free composition, which may be added to the colouring compositions for carrying out the method according to the invention, comprises a developer compound and a coupler compound and a reduction agent, or
Further, an oxidizing agent free composition may additionally comprise a direct dye as for example described in German Patent Application 199 59 479, column 3, line 12 to line 16.
Additionally, the oxidizing agent free composition usually comprises customary adjuvant and additives. Preferred are those, which are described in German Patent Application, in column 3, line 17 to line 41.
The pH-value of the oxidizing agent free composition is usually about 3 to 11, and in particular about 5 to 10, and most particular about 9 to 10.
For adjusting the pH-value organic or inorganic acids, as for example described in German Patent Application 199 59 479, column 3, line 46 to line 53 are suitable.
The colouring compositions for carrying out the method according to the invention may also be combined with hair dye compositions comprising an acid dye. Hair dye compositions comprising an acid dye are known. For example, they are described in “Dermatology”, edited by Ch. Culnan, H. Maibach, Verlag Marcel Dekker Inc., New York, Basle, 1986, Vol. 7, Ch. Zviak, The Science of Hair Care, chapter 7, pages 248–250, especially on page 253 and 254.
The hair dye compositions comprising an acid dye have a pH of 2–6, preferably 2–5, more preferably 2.5–4.0. If the pH is too low, the resulting composition may roughen the hair, scalp and hand skin due to an acid component in some cases. If the pH is too high, the penetration accelerating effect on the acid dye is lowered.
The colouring method according to the present invention may also readily be used in combination with other dyes and/or adjuvants used in the colouring of hair, for example
Preferred keratin fibers are human hair.
The dyes or dye precursors are suitable for all-over colouring of the hair, that is to say when colouring the hair on a first occasion, and also for re-colouring subsequently, or colouration of locks or parts of the hair.
The dyes or dye precursors are applied to hair for example through massage in by hand, a comb, a brush, or a bottle, or a bottle, which is combined with a comb or a nozzle.
In general, the dyes or dye precursors are applied to the hair in a formulation with further components, like adjuvants or additional dyes or dye precursors.
After the application of the dyeing composition the dyed hair is customary rinsed.
Customary, the rinsing is conducted with water.
In a suitable embodiment of the processes of the present invention for dyeing human hair, the dyeing composition is not rinsed off, but washed off with a commercially available hair shampoo.
In general, the dyed hair is dried after rinsing and/or washing.
Customary, drying is conducted with hot air by means of a drier or the like, since color migration to clothes and the like becomes scarcely caused.
In the context of the present invention, the expression “a further dye”, denotes preferably an oxidation dye, a diazotised compound, a capped diazotised compound and/or coupler compound, or acid dye, especially selected a cationic, anionic or uncharged direct dye.
A very suitable process for dyeing keratin fibers comprise contacting the keratin fibers under alkaline conditions with at least one capped diazotized compound and a coupler compound, with the proviso that the pH is adjusted in the range from 2 to 6 in the last process step. Adjusting the pH is achieved in conventional manner by adding an acid as described for example in EP 962218, especially on page 3, lines 12 to 16.
Acids are for example tartaric acid or citric acid, a citric acid gel, a suitable buffer solution with optionally an acid dye.
Preferred technical forms of acids are a solution, a gel, a cream, a foam, a conditioner, a emulsion, a shampoo and more preferred a shampoo or a conditioner.
In the context of the present invention, the expression “alkaline condition”, denotes to all process steps without those wherein acid conditions are explicitly described.
In general, all processes for dyeing keratin fibers, in particular human hair, comprise after contacting the keratin fiber with a dye
The process for dyeing keratin fibers, in particular human hair, with direct dyes comprises
The process for dyeing is for example described in WO 01/66646 on page 15, line 32 to page 16, line 2.
Usually, the dyeing compositions are usually applied to the hair in an amount of from 50 to 100 g.
This composition is left on the fiber at 15 to 45° C. for 5 to 30 minutes, and in particular for 10 to 20 minutes at 20 to 30° C.
The method of colouring according to the invention in combination with at least one direct dye may further concerns a process for dyeing keratin fibres comprises
Compositions comprising at least one direct dye and an oxidizing agent, are for example described in WO 97/20545, on page 3, line 24 to page 11, line 4, and especially on page 4, line 9 to 17.
The composition comprising at least one direct dye, a base and an oxidizing agent is prepared by mixing at least one direct dye and a base, and then just before the dyeing of the hair, adding an oxidizing agent.
Alternatively, the oxidizing agent can be applied simultaneously with a composition comprising at least one dye and a base.
Preferably, the process for dyeing keratin fibres with at least on direct dye comprises using a multi-compartment dyeing device or ‘kits’ as described for example in WO 97/20545, especially on page 4, line 19 to line 27.
Suitable processes for enlightening dyeing, which can be used in combination with the method for colouring according to the invention are described in WO 97/20545, on page 11 to page 13.
Suitable processes for dyeing with cationic dyes, which can be combined with the method of colouring according to the present invention, are described
Suitable processes for dyeing with combinations of cationic dyes and other dyes, which can be combined with the method of colouring according to the present invention, are:
The method of colouring of keratin fibers, especially human hair, according to the present invention may combined with direct dyes and oxidative dyes.
The process for dyeing keratin fibers with direct dyes and oxidative dyes, in particular human hair, comprises
The method of colouring according to the present invention may combined with a process for dyeing keratin fibers with direct dyes and oxidative dyes, which comprises
Such process is for example described in DE 199 41 450, especially on page 5, lines 50 to 58, and on page 8, line 31 to 46.
Oxidizing agent is usually applied in form of an oxidizing agent containing composition. Oxidizing agent free composition containing at least one coupler compound, at least one developer compound, a base and a reduction agent.
Customary, the oxidizing agent containing composition is evenly applied in a sufficient amount related to the amount of hair, usually with 30 to 200 g.
In general, the oxidizing agent containing composition is left on the fiber at 15 to 45° C. for 0 to 15 minutes, and in particular for 0 to 5 minutes.
Then the oxidizing agent free composition is applied to the hair.
In general, the direct dye and oxidizing agent free composition is left on the fiber at 15 to 50° C. for 5 to 45 minutes, and in particular for 10 to 25 minutes.
The coupler and developer compounds of the oxidizing agent free composition can be applied simultaneously or in succession. Preferred is a simultaneous application.
One preferred embodiment of the process is to wash the hair with shampoo and or a weak acid, such as citric acid or tartrate acid.
The direct dyes, which are stable to reduction can stored together with the oxidizing agent free compositions and are applicable as composition.
It is of advantage to prepare compositions of direct dyes, which are not stable to reduction, with oxidizing agent free compositions just before the dyeing process.
Further, a direct dye and an oxidizing agent free composition can be applied simultaneously or in succession.
A suitable process for the coloration of keratin fiber with direct dyes and oxidation dyes, which can be used in combination with the method of colouring according to the present invention, comprises
A further suitable process for the coloration of keratin fiber with direct dyes and oxidation dyes, which can be used in combination with the method of colouring according to the present invention, comprises
The direct dye is usually applied in form of a composition, comprising further adjuvants, in particular an aqueous composition.
In general the mixing is conducted just before contacting the keratin fibers.
Usually, the mixture prepared in process step a) is evenly applied in a sufficient amount related to the amount of hair, usually with 30 to 200 g.
In general, the mixture is left on the fiber at 15 to 45° C. for 0 to 50 minutes, and in particular for 30 to 45 minutes.
One preferred embodiment of the processes is to wash the hair with shampoo and or a weak acid, such as citric acid or tartrate acid, as for example described in EP 962218, especially on page 3, lines 9 to 18.
In addition, the method of the invention comprises further a two step, separate application of a direct dye and an oxidation dye. Such an application is for example described in DE-A-19 713 698, especially on page 4, line 65 to page 35, line 59, wherein the keratin fibres are contacted in a first step with a direct dye, especially in form of a tinting powder, and an oxidizing agent, and then, in a second step, with an oxidizing free composition, especially in form of a powder.
Further, it is possible to apply a for example a ready-to-use composition for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, as described in U.S. Pat. No. 6,190,421, in column 1, line 65 to column 3, line 65, especially in column 10, line 62 to column 12, line 65.
According to this process, the ready-to-use dye composition as defined above is applied to the fibers and is left on them for an exposure time preferably of from approximately 3 to approximately 40 minutes, more preferably from approximately 5 to approximately 30 minutes, after which the fibers are rinsed, optionally washed with shampoo, rinsed again and dried.
If unsaturated aldehydes are used as oxidative precursor dye together with a coupler compound no oxidizing agent is needed as described in German Patent Application 19 717 224.5. Nevertheless, it may be desirable to conduct the colouring in the presence of oxidizing agents, if lightening or a unified colouration of the keratin fiber is envisaged.
The process of dyeing keratin fibers with oxidative dye precursors, which can be used in combination with the method of colouring according to the present invention, comprises
In all above-cited dyeing processes it is also possible to apply a mixture of coupler compounds /and or developer compounds and/ different direct dyes.
Another preferred embodiment of the processes for oxidative dyeing of keratin fibers, which can be used in combination with the method of colouring according to the present invention, comprise applying to the keratin fibers after contacting with an oxidizing agent free composition containing a coupler compound and a developer compound and optionally a direct dye with a further oxidizing agent free composition containing a coupler compound and a developer compound and optionally an oxidizing agent containing composition and optionally a direct-dye by a pH range from 5 to 7, preferred from 6.5 to 7. In general the keratin fiber is not washed or rinsed afterwards as for example described in EP 962217, especially on page 3, lines 9 to 17.
The developer and coupler compounds can be applied separately, simultaneously or in succession.
In all above-cited dyeing processes with oxidation dye precursors it is also possible to apply a mixture of coupler compounds /and or developer compounds.
A more suitable process for the dyeing of keratin fibers with oxidative dyes, which can be used in combination with the method of colouring according to the present invention, comprises,
Such process is for example described in DE 19959479, especially in column 3, line 54 to column 4, line 8.
Usually, the oxidizing agent containing composition is evenly applied in a sufficient amount related to the amount of hair, usually with 30 to 200 g.
In general, the oxidizing agent containing composition is left on the fiber at 15 to 50° C. for 0 to 15 minutes, and in particular for 0 to 30 minutes.
Then the oxidizing agent free composition is applied.
Customary, the oxidizing agent free composition is left on the fiber at 15 to 50° C. for 5 to 45 minutes, and in particular for 10 to 25 minutes.
The coupler and developer compounds of oxidizing agent free compositions can be applied as an admixture, or separately simultaneously or in succession. Preferred is the application of an admixture.
One suitable embodiment of the processes is to wash the hair with shampoo and or a weak acid, such as citric acid or tartrate acid, as for example described in EP 962218, especially on page 3, lines 9 to 18.
A further suitable process for the coloration of keratin fiber with oxidation dyes, which can be used in combination with the method of colouring according to the present invention, comprises
A further suitable process for the coloration of keratin fiber with an oxidation dye, which can be used in combination with the method of colouring according to the present invention, comprises
Especially preferred is a process for dyeing keratin fibers, in particular human hair, with capped diazotised compounds, which comprises,
The capped diazotised compound and coupler compound and optionally the oxidizing agent, can be applied in any desired order successively, or simultaneously.
Preferably, however, the capped diazotised compound and the coupler compound are applied simultaneously, in a single composition.
Customary the dyeing composition is applied to the hair in an amount of from 50 to 100 g.
In the context of the present invention, the expression “alkaline conditions” denotes a pH in the range from 8 to 10, preferably 9–10, especially 9.5–10.
Adding bases, for example sodium carbonate, ammonia or sodium hydroxide, to the hair or to the dye precursors, the capped diazotised compound and/or the water-soluble coupling component, or to colouring compositions comprising the dye precursors, customarily achieve the alkaline conditions.
In the second stage, the diazotised compound and the coupler compound are then caused to react, preferably by lowering the pH to a value of from 6 to 2, especially from 3 to 4.
A preferred embodiment of all processes of the present invention for dyeing keratin fibers comprise contacting the keratin fibers under alkaline conditions with at least one capped diazotized compound and a coupler compound, with the proviso that the pH is adjusted in the range from 2 to 6 in the last process step.
Adjusting the pH is achieved in conventional manner by adding an acid as described for example in EP 962218, especially on page 3, lines 12 to 16.
Acids are for example tartaric acid or citric acid, a citric acid gel, a suitable buffer solution with optionally an acid dye.
Preferred technical forms of acids are a solution, a gel, a cream, a foam, a conditioner, a emulsion, a shampoo and more preferred a shampoo or a conditioner.
The ratio of the amount of alkaline colouring composition applied in the first stage to that of acid colouring composition applied in the second stage is preferably about from 1:3 to 3:1, especially about 1:1.
This first alkaline and then acid dyeing compositions each are left on the fiber at 15 to 45° C. for 0.5 to 60 minutes, and in particular for 5 to 45 minutes at 20 to 30° C.
In the methods according to the invention, whether or not colouring is to be carried out in the presence of a further dye will depend upon the colour shade to be obtained.
In the context of the present invention, the expression “a further dye”, denotes preferably an oxidation dye, a diazotised compound, a capped diazotised compound and/or coupler compound, or acid dye, especially selected a cabonic, anionic or uncharged direct dye, especially a cationic dye selected from the group of the cationic dyes as described in WO 95/01772, especially on page 2, line 7 to page 4, line 1, and preferred on page 4, line 35 to page 8, line 21 with the given preferences, and as described in WO 01/66646, especially on page 1, line 18 to page 3, line 16, or a mixture of at least two cationic dyes as described in WO 95/01772, especially on page 8, line 34 to page 10, line 22.
A preferred embodiment of the process for dyeing keratin fibres with capped diazotised compounds and a coupler compound, comprises contacting the keratin fibres with more than one capped diazotised compound and/or more than one coupler compound.
Preferred is a process of the present invention for the coloration of keratin fiber with capped diazotised compounds comprises
More preferred is a process for dyeing keratin fibres with at least one capped diazotized compound, which comprises
Further, preferred is a process for the coloration of keratin fiber with capped diazotised compounds comprising
A further suitable process for the two-step direct dyeing of keratin fibres, which can be used in combination with the method of colouring according to the present invention, is characterized in that,
The present invention also concerns a process for the colouration of keratin fibers, especially human hair, with acid dyes, which can be used in combination with the method of colouring according to the present invention.
The process comprises additionally
Customary, the dyeing composition comprising an acid dye is applied to the hair in an amount of from 50 to 100 g.
This in a composition is left on the fiber at 15 to 45° C. for 1 to 30 minutes, and in particular for 0 to 15 minutes at 20 to 30° C.
Preferably the hair is rinsed and than washed with shampoo and more preferably not rinsed, but washed with shampoo.
The shampoo used herein includes a shampoo comprising 5–20% of a usual anionic surfactant such as an alkylsulfate or polyoxyethylene alkylsulfate.
The colouring compositions used in accordance with the invention and the optionally used oxidation dye precursors may be stored either separately or together, either in a liquid to paste-like preparation (aqueous or non-aqueous) or in the form of a dry powder. When the components are stored together in a liquid preparation, the preparation should be substantially anhydrous in order to reduce reaction of the components. When they are stored separately, the reactive components are intimately mixed with one another only immediately before use. In the case of dry storage, before use a defined amount of hot (from 50 to 80° C.) water is usually added and a homogeneous mixture prepared.
The following Examples serve to illustrate the method without limiting the method thereto. Unless specified otherwise, parts and percentages relate to weight. The amounts of dye specified are relative to the material being coloured.
Special preference is given to colouring compositions for the colouring of hair. Further additives that are suitable for such compositions include additives that are customary in hair-colouring, for example further dyes, surfactants, solvents, perfumes, polymeric adjuvants, thickeners and light stabilisers.
The diversity of shades and the colour fastness of the colouring compositions used in accordance with the invention can be increased by combination with other dyes used in the field of hair-colouring compositions. They can be combined very readily both with oxidation dyes and with direct dyes, it being possible for the latter to be of anionic nature or uncharged. Only in the case of cationic direct dyes is a certain amount of caution appropriate because in that case precipitation may, under certain circumstances, occur in the formulation.
In all colouring compositions, it is also possible for a plurality of different colourants to be used together; likewise, it is possible for a plurality of different oxidation dye precursors from the group of the developer and coupler compounds to be used together, for example aromatic compounds having a primary or secondary amino group, nitrogen-containing heterocycles, aromatic hydroxy compounds or amino acids, as described, for example, in German Patent Application 197 17 224.5.
The colouring compositions according to the invention produce colour shades in the range from yellow to blue, and the fastness properties are outstanding. Attention is drawn to the excellent fastness to light and fastness to washing properties and to their property that enables hair that has already been coloured a dark colour still to be distinctly altered in shade.
In a further embodiment, for the purpose of further modification of colour shades the colouring compositions according to the invention also comprise, in addition to the dyes according to the invention, customary direct dyes, for example from the group of the nitroanilines, nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, anthraquinones, indophenols, phenazines, phenothiazines and methines.
Also very suitable for combination with the colouring compositions according to the invention are cationised nitroaniline and anthraquinone dyes, for example those described in the following patent specifications: U.S. Pat. No. 5,298,029, U.S. Pat. No. 5,360,930, U.S. Pat. No. 5,169,403, U.S. Pat. No. 5,256,823, U.S. Pat. No. 5,135,543, EP-A-818 193, U.S. Pat. No. 5,486,629 and EP-A-758 547.
Also, cationic azo dyes, for example according to GB-A-2 319 776, as well as the oxazine dyes described in DE-A-299 12 327 and mixtures thereof with the other direct dyes mentioned therein, are likewise suitable for combination.
In addition, the colouring compositions according to the invention may also comprise naturally occurring dyes, for example henna red, henna neutral, henna black, camomile blossom, sandalwood, black tea, Rhamnus frangula bark, sage, campeche wood, madder root, catechu, sedre and alkanet root. Such colouring methods are described, for example, in EP-A-404 868.
In respect of further customary dye components, reference is made expressly to the series “Dermatology”, edited by Ch. Culnan, H. Maibach, Verlag Marcel Dekker Inc., New York, Basle, 1986, Vol. 7, Ch. Zviak, The Science of Hair Care, chapter 7, pages 248–250 (direct dyes), and chapter 8, pages 264–267 (oxidation dyes), and to “Europäisches Inventar der Kosmetikrohstoffe”, 1996, published by The European Commission, obtainable in diskette form from the Bundesverband der deutschen Industrie-und Handelsunternehmen für Arzneimittel, Reformwaren und Körperpflegemittel e.V., Mannheim.
It is not necessary for the oxidation dye precursors, where present, or for the dyes each to be single compounds, but rather the colouring compositions according to the invention may additionally comprise, depending on the preparation procedures for the individual dyes, lesser amounts of further components, provided such components do not have an adverse effect on the colouring result or do not need to be excluded for other reasons, for example toxicological reasons.
The colouring compositions according to the invention may also readily be used in combination with other dyes and/or adjuvants used in the colouring of hair, for example with
The colouring compositions according to the invention produce intense colorations even at physiologically tolerable temperatures of less than 45° C. They are accordingly suitable especially for colouring human hair. For use on human hair, the colouring compositions can usually be incorporated into an aqueous cosmetic carrier. Suitable aqueous cosmetic carriers include, for example, creams, emulsions, gels and also surfactant-containing foaming solutions, e.g. shampoos or other preparations, that are suitable for use on keratin-containing fibres. Such forms of use are described in detail in Research Disclosure 42448 (August 1999). If necessary, it is also possible to incorporate the colouring compositions into anhydrous carriers, as described, for example, in U.S. Pat. No. 3,369,970. The colouring compositions according to the invention are also outstandingly suitable for the colouring method described in DE-A-3 829 870 using a colouring comb or colouring brush.
The colouring compositions according to the invention may furthermore comprise any active ingredient, additive or adjuvant known for such preparations. The colouring compositions in many cases comprise at least one surfactant, there being suitable in principle anionic and also zwitterionic, ampholytic and non-ionic surfactants. In many cases, however, it has proved advantageous to select the surfactants from anionic and non-ionic surfactants.
Anionic surfactants suitable for use in preparations according to the invention include any anionic surface-active substance that is suitable for use on the human body. Such a substance is characterised by an anionic group that imparts water solubility, for example a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group, and a lipophilic alkyl group having approximately from 10 to 22 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and also hydroxy groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants, each in the form of sodium, potassium or ammonium salts or mono-, di- or tri-alkanolammonium salts having 2 or 3 carbon atoms in the alkanol group, are:
Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having from 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, and also especially salts of saturated and especially unsaturated C8–C22carboxylic acids, such as oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and palmitic acid.
The term “zwitterionic surfactants” denotes surface-active compounds that carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one —COO(−) or —SO3(−) group in the molecule.
Zwitterionic surfactants that are especially suitable are the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and also cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the CTFA name cocamidopropyl betaine.
Ampholytic surfactants are to be understood as meaning surface-active compounds that, in addition to a C8–C18-alkyl or -acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one —COOH or —SO3H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants include N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamido-propylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids, each having approximately from 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Ampholytic surfactants to which special preference is given are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C12–C18acylsarcosine.
Non-ionic surfactants contain as the hydrophilic group, for example, a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups.
Such compounds are, for example:
The alkyl-group-containing compounds used as surfactants may be single substances, but the use as starting materials of natural raw materials of vegetable or animal origin is generally preferred in the preparation of such substances, with the result that the substance mixtures obtained have different alkyl chain lengths according to the particular starting material used.
The surfactants that are addition products of ethylene and/or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols or derivatives of such addition products may either be products having a “normal” homologue distribution or products having a restricted homologue distribution. “Normal” homologue distribution is to be understood as meaning mixtures of homologues obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Restricted homologue distributions, on the other hand, are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkali metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, or alkali metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products having restricted homologue distribution may be preferred.
Examples of further active ingredients, adjuvants and additives are:
The constituents of the aqueous carrier are used in the preparation of the colouring compositions according to the invention in the amounts customary for that purpose; for example emulsifiers are used in concentrations of from 0.5 to 30% by weight and thickeners in concentrations of from 0.1 to 25% by weight of the total colouring composition.
To colour keratin-containing fibres, especially to colour human hair, the colouring compositions are usually applied to the hair in an amount of from 50 to 100 g in the form of the aqueous cosmetic carrier, left on the hair for approximately 30 minutes and then rinsed off or washed off with a commercially available hair shampoo.
The colouring compositions used in accordance with the invention and the optionally used oxidation dye precursors may be applied to the keratin-containing fibres either simultaneously or successively, the order in which they are applied being unimportant.
The colouring compositions used in accordance with the invention and the optionally used oxidation dye precursors may be stored either separately or together, either in a liquid to paste-like preparation (aqueous or non-aqueous) or in the form of a dry powder. When the components are stored together in a liquid preparation, the preparation should be substantially anhydrous in order to reduce reaction of the components. When they are stored separately, the reactive components are intimately mixed with one another only immediately before use. In the case of dry storage, before use a defined amount of hot water (from 50 to 80° C.) is usually added and a homogeneous mixture prepared.
The following Examples serve to illustrate the invention without limiting the invention thereto. Unless specified otherwise, parts and percentages relate to weight. The amounts of dye specified are relative to the material being coloured.
A strand of bleached human hair is immersed, for 10 minutes at room temperature, in an aqueous solution, which has been adjusted to a pH of 3 and which contains 1% by weight of the compound of formula
The impregnated human hair is then washed with water and, at room temperature, quickly immersed in an aqueous solution of sodium carbonate having a pH of 8.
The hair is then thoroughly rinsed using water and, where appropriate, a shampoo solution and is dried. Red-coloured hair is obtained, with outstanding fastness properties, especially fastness to washing properties.
Analogously to the colouring method described in Example 1, the colorations indicated in Table 1 are obtained.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 01811007 | Oct 2001 | EP | regional |
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind | 371c Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP02/11239 | 10/8/2002 | WO | 00 | 4/12/2004 |
| Publishing Document | Publishing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| WO03/032939 | 4/24/2003 | WO | A |
| Number | Name | Date | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 4165967 | Bühler et al. | Aug 1979 | A |
| 20030066143 | Möckli | Apr 2003 | A1 |
| 20030177591 | Möckli | Sep 2003 | A1 |
| 20040049020 | Möckli | Mar 2004 | A1 |
| 20040083560 | Adam et al. | May 2004 | A1 |
| Number | Date | Country |
|---|---|---|
| 630254 | Jun 1982 | CH |
| 1906978 | Jul 1970 | DE |
| 2739227 | Mar 1978 | DE |
| 3009833 | Oct 1981 | DE |
| 198 42 071 | Sep 1999 | DE |
| 2794644 | Dec 2000 | FR |
| 0015184 | Mar 2000 | WO |
| Number | Date | Country | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 20040250355 A1 | Dec 2004 | US |
