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This invention relates to garment and garment manufacture, and, more particularly to waistbands and collar stands for garments and methods and devices for their manufacture.
Many garments such as pants, dresses, skirts, and the like include waistbands, and shirt's use collar stands. There are many types of waistbands, including one-piece, waistbands with inners and waistbands with curtains. Traditionally, one-piece waistbands for use on garments were made by first cutting each waistband to the desired length, then folding the waistband across a central axis thereof to create a crease, and then pressing the crease down with a hand iron. The two edges were then each also folded in and pressed, and then, in some cases, the seams were sewn along the two outer edges. Then the one side was used to attach the waistband to the pant or skirt, the other side was tucked in and stitched down when closing the waistband.
This process was problematic in that often the creases were uneven and resulted in imperfect waistbands that may have frayed out and/or may not have aligned properly with the garment. Additionally, cutting each waistband individually, and then folding and pressing it increased the time taken to make each garment.
An object of this invention is to create waistbands and collar stands with consistent quality, and without wasting excess fabric, and in such a way that they can be efficiently attached to garments.
Various other objects, features and attendant advantages of the present invention will become fully appreciated as the same becomes better understood when considered in conjunction with the accompanying drawings, in which like reference characters designate the same or similar parts throughout the several views, and wherein:
Waistbands according to embodiments hereof are described with reference to
The following description refers to the manufacture of waistbands. It should be appreciated that the same processes and systems may be used for collar stands and other rectangular pieces.
In the following description a continuous waistband stream may be formed which may then be stored and then later cut to required lengths as needed. It should be appreciated that
A waistband stream is formed from two substrates or materials that are processed as described herein. The first substrate 10 is the outer material of the waistband to be manufactured. The first substrate 10 may be provided as a continuous piece of material (e.g., from a spool) or it may be formed by joining pre-cut waistbands together, end-to-end (thereby to form a continuous piece of material). The latter approach is preferable when color matching of waistbands to garment is desired, as the individual pre-cut waistbands can be cut from the same material as the rest of the garment. This latter approach lends itself to a system in which waistbands are processed in smaller batches (e.g., 10-20 at a time), although it can be used for larger batches. Although the process is described here using two substrates, it should be appreciated that a single substrate—a regular fabric—could be used alone, e.g., as shown in
The fusible substrate 12 is a fusible material that is applied to the inside of the waistband. The term “fusible” is sometimes used herein to refer to the fusible material. It should be appreciated that the words “first” and “second” are used herein to distinguish or identify the materials or substrates, and not to show a serial or numerical limitation.
Preferably the inner material of second substrate 12 comprises a fusible substrate and is provided, in part, to provide and/or maintain an elastic memory of the form and the shape of the waistband.
For example, if the waistbands are to be made from denim, then the outer material or first substrate 10 will comprise denim, and the inner material or fusible substrate 12 will be an appropriate material that will fuse to the denim under appropriate fusing conditions (i.e., pressure, speed, and temperature conditions). It should be appreciated that the waistbands manufactured by the processes described herein may use any materials, and invention is not limited by any examples given. It should further be appreciated that those of ordinary skill in the art of garment manufacturing will know and understand, upon reading this description, which materials can be used together and what the fusing requirements are for various combinations of first and second substrates.
In order to manufacture a continuous waistband according to embodiments hereof, and as shown, e.g., in
Various dashed and dotted lines are used in
Thus, as shown in
It should be appreciated, however, that the fusible substrate 12 may be positioned off-center with respect to the first substrate 10 for certain waistband designs, and that these designs are contemplated herein.
For the purposes of this discussion, the distance from the edge of the fusible substrate along line A-A to the edge X-X of first substrate 10 is referred to as W3, and distance from the edge of the fusible substrate along the line B-B to the edge Y-Y of first substrate 10 is referred to as W4.
The fusible substrate 12 may be positioned substantially in the center of the first substrate 10 (i.e., substantially along a central axis of the first substrate 10), or it may be positioned off center. In other words, the values of W3 and W4 may by substantially equal (when the fusible 12 is centered along the transverse axis of the first substrate 10, or they may be unequal (when the fusible 12 is off center), as shown, e.g., in
Those of ordinary skill in the art of garment manufacturing will know and the dimensions needed for various types and styles of waistbands or collar stands.
In
As will be explained below, in forming a continuous waistband according to embodiments hereof, a portion 10-1 of the first substrate 10 is folded over the fold line A-A, and a second portion 10-2 the first substrate 10 is folded over the fold line B-B. The distance between the fold lines A-A and B-B is essentially the width of the fusible 12. The width of the first portion of the first substrate 10 that will be folded over the fold line A-A is substantially W3, and the width of the portion of the second portion of the first substrate 10 that will be folded over the fold line B-B is substantially W4.
As shown in the drawings, the fold line A-A corresponds substantially to an edge A-A of the fusible substrate 12. It should be appreciated that in less preferred embodiments the fold line A-A may be away from the edge of the fusible substrate 12. Similarly, while the other fold line is shown to correspond substantially to the edge B-B of the fusible substrate 12, in some less preferred embodiments the other fold line B-B may be away from the edge of the fusible substrate 12.
After the first and second side portions 10-1 and 10-2 of the first substrate 10 have been folded over fold lines A-A and B-B, respectively, a portion 12′ of the fusible substrate 12 may remain uncovered.
It should be appreciated that the center fold line M′-M′ in
As shown in
The fusible substrate 12 may comprise adhesive or the like so that it may be fused with the first substrate 10 under appropriate fusing conditions. In some embodiments the fusible substrate 12 has less adhesive or fiber or fabric yarns along the fold line M′-M′ in order to aid with the folding.
Although the folding of the first substrate 10 and the fusible substrate 12 is shown in three distinct drawings (
The first substrate 10 and the fusible substrate 12 may be provided on spools or troughs or the like which are positioned to feed appropriate amounts of the substrates 10 and 12 into the fuser 32 substantially tension free. The spools may be positioned such that the fusible substrate 12 is appropriately located on top of the first substrate 10.
The fuser 32 fuses the first and second substrates together under conditions (e.g., at temperature, pressure, and speed) appropriate for the materials being used. Those of ordinary skill in the art will know and understand what settings to use for the fuser 32 based on the materials being used for the first substrate 10 and the fusible substrate 12. The output of the fuser 32 is a fused combination 14 of the first substrate 10 and the fusible substrate 12, e.g., as shown in
The output 14 of fuser 32 is preferably cooled (e.g., in troughs or by spacing between equipment components) and then provided to one or more folders 34 in order to achieve the folds, e.g., as described above with reference to
The output 16 of folder(s) 34 is the continuous waistband shown in
The spooled continuous waistband 18 may then be cut to appropriate length for use on a garment.
Fuser 32 may be a Reliant M60 (made by Reliant Machinery Ltd., United Kingdom) or the like, and press 36 may be a Reliant M45 or the like.
It should be appreciated that the output 14 of the fuser 32 may be hot and should therefore preferably be cooled before being fed into folder(s) 34. Cooling bins or the like may be provided in order to cool the fused output 14.
The output 16 of folder(s) 34 is a folded, fused substrate to be fed into the press 36. In order to prevent the output 16 of the folder(s) 34 from unfolding before being pressed, the folder 34 preferably feeds directly into the mouth 38 of the press 36, with little or no gap between them. In order to achieve this, the folder preferably has an extended output portion (35 in
Next, the two substrates 10 and 12 are fused (at S44). Using the exemplary system shown in
Next, the folded substrates are pressed/creased (at S48). In the exemplary system of
The fused three-way folded, pressed and creased substrates may then be collected and/or spooled (at S50).
In some preferred embodiments, the continuous tri-folded and pressed waistbands are rolled into 10 or 20 waistband lengths which may then be taken to a production floor where they are fitted overhead or under a waistband machine (that pull the bands as needed) as the operator attaches the waistband onto the pants. It should be appreciated that the use of a spool of continuous waistbands means that, in use, only the first waistband needs to be fed into the waistband machine, the rest of the waistband will follow as needed.
In some cases the waistbands being produced will include curtains or inners. In these case, as shown, e.g., in
It should be understood that the joiner 33 may be a sewing machine or the like and may require human operation.
Those of ordinary skill in the art will realize and appreciate, upon reading this description, that when a single substrate is used, without a fusible substrate, then the fuser 32 (
The first substrate may be or comprise, without limitation, a material selected from the group comprising: denim, cotton (e.g., 100% cotton or cotton blends), wool (e.g. 100% wool or wool blends), polyester, polyester blends, spandex (elastane), spandex blend, polyester viscose (e.g., polyester and Rayon or some fabric made from regenerated cellulose fiber), linen or linen blends. A cotton blend may be, e.g., a 65/35 cotton polyester blend or a 50/50 cotton polyester blend. A polyester blend may be, e.g., a 98/2 polyester cotton blend or a 97/3 polyester cotton blend. Those of ordinary skill in the art will realize and appreciate, upon reading this description, that different and or other materials and blends may be used, and the examples of materials listed here are not intended to limit the scope of this invention in any way.
In one example, the first substrate 10 is denim and the fusible substrate 12 is a 84 mm fusible substrate, and the fuser 32 is set to 180° C., speed at 5 Meters/Minute and pressure at 5 bars.
In another example, the first substrate 10 is 100% cotton and the fusible substrate 12 is a 80 mm fusible substrate, and the fuser is set to 160° C., at 4 Meters/Minute with the pressure at 4 bars.
In another example, the first substrate 10 is denim and the fusible substrate 12 is a 47 mm fusible substrate, and the fuser 32 is set to 180° C., speed at 5 Meters/Minute and pressure at 5 bars.
In another example, the first substrate 10 is 100% wool and the fusible substrate 12 is a 45 mm fusible substrate, and the fuser 32 is set to 160° C., speed at 4 Meters/Minute and pressure at 4 bars.
Thus are described continuous folded waistbands and collar stands, and methods and system for making same.
Although some of the examples and processes shown about use fusible substrate, it should be appreciated that a fusible substrate is not required in all embodiments, and that waistbands and collar stands may be made without a fusible substrate.
In some embodiments the fabric for the waistband (or collar stand) may be or include spandex (sometimes referred to as “elastane,” e.g., Lycra™ or some such material comprising an elastic polyurethane fiber or fabric) so that it will be able to stretch by itself.
In some embodiments the fabric used to make the waistband (or collar stand) may be cut on a bias in order to impart a degree of mechanical stretch to the fabric, with or without the use of a fusible.
The systems and processes described remove the complexities, inaccuracies and waste of manual products.
While the above example all show three-way folds, some waistband may only require one or two folds, and these may accommodated by different folders.
Where a process is described herein, those of ordinary skill in the art will appreciate that the process may operate without any user intervention. In another embodiment, the process includes some human intervention (e.g., a step is performed by or with the assistance of a human).
As used in this description, the term “portion” means some or all. So, for example, “A portion of X” may include some of “X” or all of “X”. In the context of a conversation, the term “portion” means some or all of the conversation.
As used herein, including in the claims, the phrase “at least some” means “one or more,” and includes the case of only one. Thus, e.g., the phrase “at least some ABCs” means “one or more ABCs”, and includes the case of only one ABC.
As used herein, including in the claims, the phrase “using” means “using at least,” and is not exclusive. Thus, e.g., the phrase “using X” means “using at least X.” Unless specifically stated by use of the word “only”, the phrase “using X” does not mean “using only X.”
In general, as used herein, including in the claims, unless the word “only” is specifically used in a phrase, it should not be read into that phrase.
As used herein, including in the claims, the phrase “distinct” means “at least partially distinct.” Unless specifically stated, distinct does not mean fully distinct. Thus, e.g., the phrase, “X is distinct from Y” means that “X is at least partially distinct from Y,” and does not mean that “X is fully distinct from Y.” Thus, as used herein, including in the claims, the phrase “X is distinct from Y” means that X differs from Y in at least some way.
It should be appreciated that the words “first” and “second” in the description and claims are used to distinguish or identify, and not to show a serial or numerical limitation. Similarly, the use of letter or numerical labels (such as “(a)”, “(b)”, and the like) are used to help distinguish and/or identify, and not to show any serial or numerical limitation or ordering.
While the invention has been described in connection with what is presently considered to be the most practical and preferred embodiments, it is to be understood that the invention is not to be limited to the disclosed embodiment, but on the contrary, is intended to cover various modifications and equivalent arrangements included within the spirit and scope of the appended claims.
This application claims priority to U.S. Provisional Application No. 61/897,930, filed Oct. 31, 2013, the entire contents of which are hereby fully incorporated herein by reference for all purposes.
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Entry |
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PCT/US14/57890 filed on Sep. 26, 2014, Pending, Continuous Folded Waistbands, Collar Stands, and Methods and Systems for Making Same. |
WIPO, PCT/US14/57890, International Search Report, dated Jan. 2, 2015. |
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Number | Date | Country | |
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20150113697 A1 | Apr 2015 | US |
Number | Date | Country | |
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61897930 | Oct 2013 | US |