Patent Grant
11035060
The present invention relates to a method of manufacturing a sporting goods component.
Sporting good components often have a three-dimensional shape. For example, a sports shoe comprises a shoe upper and a sole. The shoe upper generally comprises a three-dimensional shape for receiving and covering a human foot. Another example is the shape of sports apparel which follows the human anatomy.
A three-dimensional shape of a sporting goods component is often obtained by joining together two-dimensional pieces. For example, a shoe upper often comprises different components like vamp, toe cap, heel counter, etc. which are stitched or glued together in a three-dimensional shape. Additionally, the shoe upper is often pulled over a last having the shape of a human foot.
This conventional method of forming a sporting goods component is time-consuming and costly due to the comparatively large number of manufacturing steps. Furthermore, sporting goods components manufactured in this way, comprise visible seams which are often detrimental to the optical appearance of the sporting good.
According to U.S. Pat. No. 4,027,406 a lasting piece of shrinkable, preferably oriented thermoplastic polymeric material is attached, preferably by stitching, to a shoe upper lasting margin and is shrunk by being heated, if it is thermoplastic, to between its glass transition temperature and melting point. Shrinkage of the lasting piece lasts the shoe upper to the last. The lasting piece can be a lasting string, endless band or strip, or a sheet, web, net or welt.
However, U.S. Pat. No. 4,027,406 does not address the general problem of how to obtain a three-dimensional sporting goods component from two-dimensional pieces. Furthermore, U.S. Pat. No. 4,027,406 is directed to general footwear and does not address the specific needs of the sports industry.
Therefore, the technical problem underlying the present invention is to provide a method for the manufacture of a sporting goods component, which is time- and cost-efficient, and allows for the manufacture of optically appealing sporting goods.
This problem is solved by a method for the manufacture of a sporting goods component comprising the steps of: selecting a first textile, wherein the first textile comprises a first shrinkage ratio under a predetermined shrinking condition; forming a first portion of the component using the first textile; selecting a second textile, wherein the second textile comprises a second shrinkage ratio under the predetermined shrinking condition, wherein the second shrinkage ratio is higher than the first shrinkage ratio; forming a second portion of the component using the second textile; and attaching the first textile and the second textile together.
According to the invention, a sporting goods component is provided with a first textile and a second textile. Both textiles differ at least by their shrinkage ratio if a predetermined shrinking condition is applied. Examples of shrinking conditions will be given below. If the shrinking condition is applied, the second textile having a higher shrinking condition will shrink more than the first textile. As both textiles are attached to each other, the different shrinkage of both textiles will lead to a deformation of the sporting goods component. If the size, shape, arrangement and shrinkage ratio of both textiles are appropriately chosen, the deformation will result in a desired shape of the sporting goods component.
Thus, the sporting goods component may be provided with a rather complex three-dimensional shape without the need to join different pieces together.
The invention also allows to pull less appealing seams in a different location where they may be covered by another piece of the sporting goods component. Examples will be given below. In this way, more appealing sporting goods components can be manufactured.
“Shrinkage ratio” in the context of the present invention is understood as the ratio of the length of a certain portion of a respective textile before and after application of the shrinking condition. For example, if a certain portion of the first textile or the second textile comprises a length of 2 cm before shrinking and 1 cm after shrinking, the shrinkage ratio is 2. Alternatively, the shrinkage ratio may be expressed as a percent value denoting by how much the portion is shrunk. For example, if the length of the portion is 1 cm before shrinking and 0.7 cm after shrinking, the shrinkage ratio is said to be 30%. A shrinkage ratio of 1 (or 0%) is possible according to the invention, i.e. the textile may not shrink at all.
The method may further comprise the step of applying the shrinking condition. This causes the second textile to shrink more than the first textile, because its shrinkage ratio is higher. As both textiles are attached to each other, a tension force is created within the sporting goods component resulting in a deformation.
The application of the shrinking condition may provide the sporting goods component with a three-dimensional shape. In this way, a three-dimensional sporting goods component can be obtained from a flat two-dimensional shape simply by applying the shrinking condition. In other embodiments, a three-dimensional sporting goods component may be modified from a three-dimensional shape to another different three-dimensional shape simply by applying the shrinking condition.
The shrinking condition may comprise the application of heat and/or water. Water may include water in liquid form, as steam or as vapor. Heat and water are readily available and their application is rather simple.
The first textile may be a knit and/or the second textile may be a knit. Knitted fabrics are well suitable for sporting goods components such as shoe uppers, but also for sports apparel. Moreover, yarns with different shrinkage ratios can be used by knitting machines to obtain the first and second textiles in a fully automated manner.
The method may further comprise the step of forming the first portion and the second portion of the component during the same knitting process. Thus, a one-piece seamless knit fabric is obtained, thereby providing a simple cost-efficient manufacturing, and also a good looking finished product. Besides, such knit component may be obtained on a flat-knitting machine and may be provided with a three-dimensional shape when subjected to the application of the shrinking condition.
The method may further comprise the step of attaching the first portion and the second portion to each other by loops of knitting during the knitting process. As mentioned above, this technique avoids seams between the two portions. Nonetheless and according to the invention other methods of attaching the first and the second portion may be used such as stitching, gluing, melting, etc.
The method may further comprise the steps of forming the first portion at least partially by a first knitting row and forming the second portion at least partially by a second knitting row. In this way, the two different textiles can be incorporated into the sporting goods component for example by changing the yarn on a knitting machine after the first row has been knitted.
The first portion of the component may be obtained by using a first selection of yarn or yarns on a first needle and the second portion of the component may be obtained by using a second selection of yarn or yarns on a second needle, wherein the second needle forms loops side by side with loops formed by the first needle, and the second selection of yarn or yarns comprises a higher shrinkage ratio than the first selection of yarn or yarns. Such a setup decreases production time because both textiles can be incorporated into the sporting goods component at the same time.
The method may further comprise the step of forming the first textile and the second textile by small circular knitting. Small circular knitting is a technique which allows to manufacture a single circular knit portion with a diameter adapted to the final shape of the component. Compared to conventional circular knitting or flat knitting, no additional cutting step is needed. Furthermore, as the result is a three-dimensional circular knit portion, no additional sewing step is needed to form a two-dimensional flat component into a three-dimensional component. In addition, by application of the shrinking condition, the circular knit portion may further be formed into the desired shape.
The first textile and the second textile may be knitted in a single small circular knitting process to obtain a tube comprising the first portion and the second portion. The shape of the tube may then be locally modified by the method according to the invention.
The second shrinkage ratio may be higher than the first shrinkage ratio by at least 10%. In particular, the shrinkage ratio may be at least 20%.
The sporting goods component manufactured according to the method described herein may in particular be a shoe upper for a sports shoe. As mentioned above, shoe uppers are usually made from two-dimensional pieces sewn or glued together. These steps can be omitted when using the method according to the invention.
A further aspect of the present invention relates to a sporting goods component comprising: a first portion with a first shrinkage ratio under a predetermined condition; and a second portion with a second shrinkage ratio under the predetermined condition. As described above, such a sporting goods component may be have a rather complex three-dimensional shape without the need to join different pieces together. The invention also allows to pull less appealing seams in a different location where they may be covered by another piece of the sporting goods component. Examples will be given below.
The sporting goods component may comprise a three-dimensional shape caused at least in part by a difference of the first shrinkage ratio and the second shrinkage ratio. In this way, a three-dimensional sporting goods component can be obtained from a flat two-dimensional shape. Also, a three-dimensional sporting goods component can be obtained from a three-dimensional shape, for example a complex three-dimensional sporting goods component may be obtained from a tubular component.
The sporting goods component may be a shoe upper. As mentioned above, shoe uppers are usually made from two-dimensional pieces sewn or glued together. These steps can be omitted when manufacturing a shoe upper according to the invention which may therefore be manufactured with less time, effort and costs.
The shrinking condition may comprise the application of heat and/or water. Heat and water are readily available and their application is rather simple.
The first portion may comprise a knit textile and/or the second portion may comprise a knit textile. Knitted fabrics are well suitable for sporting goods components such as shoe uppers, but also for sports apparel. Moreover, yarns with different shrinkage ratios can be used by knitting machines to obtain the first and second textiles in a fully automated manner.
The first knit textile and the second knit textile may be portions of a one-piece knit. Thus, the sporting goods component comprises a one-piece seamless knit fabric which may even be originally flat, but which is provided with a three-dimensional shape subject to the application of the shrinking condition.
The first portion and the second portion may have been attached to each other by loops of knitting during a knitting process. As mentioned above, this technique avoids seams between the two portions.
The first portion may be formed at least partially by a first knitting row and the second portion may be formed at least partially by a second knitting row. In this way, the two different textiles can be incorporated into the sporting goods component for example by changing the yarn on a knitting machine after the first row has been knitted.
The first textile and the second textile may have been formed by small circular knitting. As mentioned above, small circular knitting is a technique which allows to manufacture a single circular knit portion at a time with the correct size and shape. Compared to conventional circular knitting or flat knitting, which produce several components (i.e. shoe uppers or parts of it) at once, no additional cutting step is needed. Furthermore, as the result is a three-dimensional circular knit portion, no additional sewing step is needed to form a two-dimensional flat component into a three-dimensional component. In addition, by using textiles with different shrinking conditions, the circular knit portion may further be formed into the desired shape of the final sporting goods component.
According to an aspect of the inventive idea of the present invention, a shrinking yarn is incorporated in a sporting goods component, such that when the sporting good is worn, the shrinking yarn surrounds a portion of a human body. For example, the shrinking yarn may be wrapped around a toe portion of a shoe upper, such that it surrounds a human foot when a shoe comprising the shoe upper is worn.
By the application of a shrinking condition, as described herein, the shrinking yarn may shrink and provide the sporting goods component with a desired shape. In the example above, the shoe upper may be provided with a smaller diameter at the toe portion compared for example to the midfoot portion.
The sporting goods component may comprise a base material and the shrinking yarn. The shrinking yarn may have a higher shrinkage ratio than the base material when applying the shrinking condition. For example, the base material may be a textile, leather or artificial leather.
The sporting goods component may be a shoe upper. As described above, the shoe upper may be provided with the desired shape simply by the application of the shrinking condition.
The sporting goods component may be a sports apparel. For example, the shrinking yarn may be arranged, such that it surrounds a waist of a human body when worn. In this way, the apparel may be provided with a good fit to the human body.
The presently preferred embodiments of the method according to the invention as well as of a sporting goods component according to the invention are described in the following detailed description, with reference to the following drawings:
Thus, the shoe upper 11 is initially a small circular knit sock. The upper 11 comprises a shrinking zone 12 that will shrink more than the rest 13 of the sock when heat is applied to the knit. In particular, in the currently preferred embodiment of the invention, the shrinking portion 12 is placed at the bottom portion of the forefoot portion of the sock. That way some portions such as the seam 14 at the front of the sock may be pulled toward below the sock, so that it is hidden when the shoe upper is then joined with a sole (not shown in
After shrinking of the portion 12, the shoe upper 11 will be deformed in the forefoot portion such that the front seam 14 is arranged below the shoe upper 11. The joining line that separates the portion of the shoe upper 11 that will be visible on the final product and the portion of the upper 11 that will be joined to the sole unit is indicated by dashed lines 15. After shrinking, the seam 14 is below the joining line such that it cannot be seen on the final product.
The method may be applied to any knit textile, in particular a flat knit textile, or to any other material. One or the other of the textiles may be a knit, mesh, woven, braid, or non-woven.
The area in which the higher shrinkage ratio is designed may be in a different place than in the above example of
In this example, a small circular knit tube 21 comprises four different zones 22, 23, 24 and 25, each having a different shrinkage ratio. As illustrated in
Generally, shrinking yarns may be used in the context of the present invention. A shrinking yarn may for example be based on polyamides, polyesters, poly-acrylonitriles or vinyl polymers, olefin polymers, TPU, wool-felted, Lycra®, yarns comprising rubber in their content, and biomimetic yarn such as spider-silk yarn obtained by bio-engineering (e.g. produced by genetically modified bacteria).
In some embodiments, a PES yarn may be used in a portion that is to shrink only slightly (for example between 1% and 5%), and a mix of PES and Lycra yarn may be used in shrinking portions with a higher shrinkage ratio (for example between 5% and 30%, in particular between 10% and 20%).
One of the advantages of the invention is that a one size basic component may shrink to different percentages so as to obtain different sizes of the final sporting good. This is particularly advantageous in small circular knitting where the number of needles is fixed, and therefore the diameter of the tube obtained is in principle also fixed. But varying the shrinkage ratio, and/or the size, and/or the shape, and/or the arrangement of the shrinking portion(s), and/or the shrinking conditions (in particular the duration of application), permits to obtain different sizes and shapes.
In an example, a sock obtained by small circular knitting is to be used as a sports shoe upper. The size of the sock as it is taken out of the small circular knitting machine corresponds to European shoe size 40. By selectively adding a shrinking yarn during the knitting process and applying a shrinking condition, it is possible to shrink the sock, such that it corresponds to smaller shoe sizes, such as 39, 38, 37, etc.
Generally, the shrinking portion may have a varying width over a dimension of the shoe upper, such that one portion will become smaller than other portions as illustrated in
A shrinking area, zone or portion according to the invention is understood as an area that shrinks more than another area of the sporting goods component (for example a shoe upper). For example, the shrinking area, zone or portion may be knit and comprises a higher proportion of a shrinking yarn. It may be that other areas have less percentage of shrinking yarn, or have no shrinking yarn at all.
In some embodiments, a sporting goods component may comprise two overlapping layers of textiles, wherein a first layer comprises a lower shrinkage ratio than a second layer. The two layers may be bonded to each other or only attached at some points (for example at their edges). The behavior of the portion will thus be different whether the two layers are bonded or not. The first (less shrinking) layer may be a stretch layer with a high degree of elasticity.
An example of overlapping layers with different shrinkage ratios is provided in
Another example is provided in
A further example is illustrated in
Generally, according to the invention, the activation of the shrinking may be provoked by different elements. The shrinking may be activated by heat, by water (liquid, vapor or steam), and/or any combination. The heat may be provided as electromagnetic waves in many different wavelengths: IR, microwave, radio-frequency, etc. so as to warm up the sporting goods component such as a shoe upper.
The activation may be applied on the whole sporting goods component (such as a shoe upper) or locally. For example, heat or steam may be applied very locally with a nozzle, either manually or automatically (e.g. with a robotic arm). Nonetheless the invention is particularly advantageous when the activation is applied to the entire sporting goods component (such as a shoe upper): the process is then more simple and cheaper as it may require less complex machines and less labor. Indeed, the entire shoe upper may be passed in an oven for example.
In case of a shoe upper, the shrinking is beneficially made when the shoe upper is lasted. Nonetheless it may be made when the shoe upper is not lasted. If the shoe upper is lasted, heat may be transferred to the shoe upper via the last to activate the shrinking process. To this end, the last may comprise a heating element, such as heating wires or may allow the passage of a hot medium such as water or oil, or may comprise steam nozzles.
According to the invention, other portions with different characteristics may be integrated in a shoe upper for a sports shoe (or sports apparel). For example, a portion may have a higher elasticity than another one. This may be obtained by using a higher proportion of an elastic yarn (in a knit or a woven for example). More particularly, an elastic yarn may be integrated in the shrinking area, in combination with a shrinking yarn. By doing so, the elastic yarn may be able to pull on the shrinking area when the shrinking yarn is “activated” so as to accelerate the shrinkage and/or obtain shrinkage with a lighter activation (e.g. at a lower temperature) and/or with a lower proportion of shrinking yarn than would be needed without the elastic yarn.
The shrinking area may also be combined with a second different area made to be auxetic. Auxeticity may be obtained by the geometry and/or material of the second area. The shrinking area and the auxetic area may be placed on the shoe upper such that when the shrinking area shrinks it pulls the auxetic material in one direction. As a consequence of this pull along one direction the auxetic area also extends in a second direction.
The method according to the invention may generally also be used for apparel.
One other advantage of embedding shrinking areas is that these areas may become stiffer. Therefore, they can form a local reinforcement such as a heel counter or a toe cap. They may also improve abrasion resistance. It is particularly the case with knit textile whereby the shrunk knit portion has smaller and tighter loops. Besides, the shrunk portion may also be more water-repellant as the holes between the loops are smaller. Combined with a water-repellant yarn (e.g. water-repellant coated yarn), the holes may be small enough to stop water intake, even in a knit.
The shrinking portions or parts thereof, such as for example a shrinking yarn may be removed in a further manufacturing step. For example, it may be a shrinking patch or a shrinking yarn attached at intervals to a base layer so as to deform it when shrinking, and the base layer is then locked in place or set in its shape, and the shrinking portion is then removed. Also, the shrinking portion may be cut-off for example a shoe upper in a subsequent manufacturing step. More particularly an outer-periphery of the shoe upper that would be made more shrinking than other portions of the shoe upper may be cut-off in a subsequent step.
A specific shrinking yarn may comprise two different grades of material such that a portion of the yarn will shrink more than another portion of the yarn. An illustrative example of such a yarn 71 in provided in
The yarn 71 may be obtained by co-extrusion of two different materials—or two different grades of a same material—with different shrinkage ratio under the same predetermined conditions. Such yarn 71 would curl as illustrated in
It is also possible to apply a shrinking condition more than once. For example, as illustrated in
In an optional step of the invention, a mask may be applied to at least a portion of the sporting good component (such as a shoe upper), such that it does not receive the application of the shrinking condition. Such portion may thus remain un-shrunk or may be shrunk at a later stage. For example, a mask may protect at least one portion from heat application.
More particularly,
The yarn proportions in this specific example are as follow: 100% PES in the area 93 and 100% TPU in the area 92. However, similar behavior would be seen with material blends and especially using some materials which could be engineered with higher shrinkage levels. Additionally, material blends are advantageous to maintain a combination of properties in the shrinkage zones, for example to maintain bonding behavior or comfort.
According to an aspect of the inventive idea of the present invention, a shrinking yarn is incorporated in a sporting goods component, such that when the sporting good is worn, the shrinking yarn surrounds a portion of a human body. This principle is generally illustrated in
Generally, for this aspect of the idea of the present invention, one of the shrinking yarns described above may be used. The material 112 used for the sporting goods component may be a textile (such as a knit), leather or artificial leather.
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