Patent Application
20110219552
This invention relates to a method of protecting dyed hair color from fading or wash-out, and more particularly, to the use of particular polymers, such as hydrophobically modified polymers, for dyed hair color protection against shampoo treatments.
The coloring of hair has become increasingly popular in recent years. However, fading of artificial hair color has become a common problem and a frequent complaint by consumers. Fading can occur during the shampoo washing treatment as color wash-out, or can be initiated by environmental circumstances, such as by exposure to UV radiation. The washing process is the most significant factor in the removal of hair color, while UV exposure had a significant impact only after 90 hours of intense irradiation. S. Marchioretto, “The Use of Silicones as a Color Lock Aid in Rinse-Off Hair Conditioners”, J. of Cosmetic Science, 2003 Annual Scientific Meeting, pp. 130-131. Furthermore, the surfactants present in shampoo formulations provide a wetting function which brings moisture into the hair shaft, thus facilitating the removal of the dye molecules to exit during the water rinsing process.
Maintaining hair color and minimizing hair color fading is highly desirable in the hair care market. Several anti-fading products exist in the market including anti-fading shampoos and conditioners. Some products contain silicones such as dimethicone and amodimethicone, which are believed to effect color retention. See A. Schlosser, “Silicones Used in Permanent and Semi-Permanent Hair Dyes to Reduce the Fading and Color Change Process of Dyed Hair Occurring by Wash-Out or UV Radiation”, J. Cosmetic Sci., 55 (Supplement), pp. 123-131, 2004.
An article published in 2004 in HAPPI, relating to the permanency of Level 2 (a.k.a. demi-permanent) and Level 3 (a.k.a. oxidative or permanent) hair dyes, described an olefin graft conditioner ethylene/acrylate copolymer and acrylates amino methacrylate copolymer, at a 2-5% use-level improved color retention (vs. no treatment) by 15% for Level 2 dyes and by 5% for Level 3 dyes when incorporated into a two-part dye rather than applied as a post-dye conditioner. The proposed mechanism for this function is the formation of an occlusive olefin barrier on the surface of the hair. Martin, T., and Burns, T., “Novel Graft Polymers Boost Hair Color Retention”, HAPPI, pp. 92-95, October 2004.
U.S. Pat. Nos. 7,066,966 and 7,147,672 disclose an oxidation dyeing composition for keratin fibers comprising a cationic poly (vinyllactam).
In accordance with certain aspects of the present invention, hydrophobically modified cationic polymers or hydrophobically modified polymers plus a quaternizing agent are effective in protecting dyed hair color from color erosion induced by daily shampooing. The hydrophobically modified cationic polymers or hydrophobically modified polymers plus a quaternizing agent have both hydrophobic moieties and sufficient cationic charge density to maintain substantivity to hair while providing a hydrophobic barrier to “lock-in” hair dye from washing out during daily shampoo washing.
The present invention provides compositions containing particular polymers that protect dyed hair color against shampoo washings. Preferred polymers include one or more polymers selected from the following groups of polymers:
Hydrophobically modified quaternary polymers that can be used in the present invention include quaternized polymers containing an alkyl substitution with a carbon number above three. The alkyl substitution can be either attached to the quaternary unit or to any other locations of the polymer. The preferred hydrophobically modified quaternary polymers in accordance with the present invention include the quaternary polymers of general formula (R,R′,R″,N—)+X−, wherein R, R′, are identical or different. They can be aliphatic or carry additional substituents. R″ is an alkyl chain with a carbon number above 3, preferably from 8 to 22. X− represents an anion, for example, chloride, bromide, etc., and N can be part of a heterocyclic or aromatic ring.
Examples of the hydrophobically modified cationic polymers include, but are not limited to, terpolymer of vinylpyrrolidone(VP), dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide (DMAPMA), and methacryloylaminopropyl lauryldimonium chloride (MAPLDAC) with a trade name of Styleze W-20®; alkyl substituted quaternized cellulose polymers such as those with trade names of Quatrisoft polymer LM-200 (Polyquatemium 24) and SoftCAT™ Polymers such as quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose polymers with cationic substitution of trimethyl ammonium and dimethyldodecyl ammonium and stearyldimonium hydroxylethyl or propyl cellulose (Crodacel QS) and Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl oxyethyl cellulose (Crodacel QM); alkyl substituted quaternary dimethicone copolymers such as Polyquaternium-41 or 42.
Hydrophobically modified polymers that can be used in the present invention include polymers containing an alkyl moiety with a carbon number of at least 3. Examples of hydrophobically modified polymers include, but are not limited to nonionic hydrophobically modified polymers such as the copolymer of PEG-150, decyl alcohol and saturated methylene diphenyldiisocyanate with a trade name of Aculyn 44; nonionic guar gum with alkyl groups such as those with trade names of Jaguar HP-60, N-Hance® hydroxypropyl Guar; PVP/Eicosene copolymer; Nonoxynyl hydroxylcellulose with a trade name of Amercell Polymer HM-1500; cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose (Natrosol Plus); hydroxy propyl cellulose; hydroxyl propylmethyl cellulose.
Examples of polymers containing dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide (DMAPMA) or dimethylaminoethyl methacrylamide (DMAEMA) include poly(vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide) with a trade name of Styleze CC-10 and poly(vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate) with a trade name of Copolymer 937 or 845.
The amount of polymer used in the compositions described herein depends upon the particular composition and usage of the composition. Typically, the amount of polymer in accordance with certain aspects of the present invention ranges from about 0.1 to about 10%, preferably from about 0.5 to about 5.0%, and more preferably from about 1.0 to about 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
The cationic surfactants that can be used in the practice of the present invention include quaternized surfactants. The preferred quaternized cationic surfactants in accordance with certain aspects of the present invention are the quaternary ammonium compounds of general formula (R,R′,R″,R′″N)+X−, wherein R, R′, R″ and R′″ are identical or different, are aliphatic or carry additional substituents, X− represents an anion, for example, chloride, bromide, sulfate, etc., and N can be part of a heterocyclic or aromatic ring.
In particularly useful quaternized surfactants, R and R′ are CH3, and R″ and R′″ are aliphatic or aromatic chains, for example, hydroxy ethyl cetearamidopropyldimmonium chloride.
A suitable amount of cationic surfactant in accordance with certain aspects of the present invention ranges from about 0.01 to about 30%, preferably from about 0.01 to about 25%, and more preferably from about 0.2 to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
The color protection treatment herein can be delivered by a post-color treatment (after dying of hair), either from a leave-in product or a rinse-off product or a combination thereof to provide at least 10% color protection against the untreated control after 10 time washes.
For optimum performance, the new hair color should be treated with the leave-in treatment formula and dried before the first shampoo wash and treated with the leave-in formula again after each shampoo and conditioner use.
The post color leave-in treatment formulations preferably may be in the form of a gel or cream or mousse or spray. The post color rinse off treatment typically can be in the form of shampoos, conditioners or other rinse off product forms.
Test Methods for Evaluating Hair Color Changes for Anti-Fading Effect
Polymer Screening Test—Soaking Test of Dyed Hair
1. Hair dye dissolution in water was determined by soaking fixed amount of dyed hair sample (0.5 g) in water containing 1% polymer (as solid). The soaking liquor was sampled after fixed hours of soaking and read for L, a and b values on HunterLab colorimeter (t=0 values were read before adding hair into a soaking liquor). Color changes generated by hair dye dissolution in soaking liquor were determined as dE calculated from L, a, b values of the soaking liquor before and after soaking.
dE=((Lt−Lo)2+(at−a0)2+(bt−bo)2)1/2.
Where Lo, ao, bo; and Lt, at, bt are measured Hunter L, a, b color parameters before and after soaking at certain time period, respectively.
A larger value of dE reflects greater change of color.
Fading Index=dE of polymer solution/dE of water. Maximum Fading index is 1, indicating no protection at all.
Polymers showing reduced dye dissolution or with a Fading Index less than 0.5 are further tested by multiple shampoo washing tests.
Polymers which show effectiveness in reducing hair dye dissolution in the soaking tests were selected to test in a full hair cream or gel formulations in multiple shampoo washing test. These polymers were formulated into hair care formulations as either a leave in treatment or rinse off formulations.
Hair Samples
Bleached hair was purchased from International Hair Importers. Each hair tress weighs 3.5 g and has a 1.5″ width and a 6.5″ length. It was split into halves for color fastness test, one half for the treatment test and the other half served as a non-treated control.
Hair Dyes
The bleached hairs were dyed using commercially available hair coloring products. The hair dye product tested in accordance with the certain examples were ones from red shade containing -Hydroxyethyl 4,5-Diamino Pyrazole Sulfate, which is thought to be the most delicate dye. One is intense dark red and the other is radiant Ruby. Intense dark red is used in most tested hair samples unless specified. In addition, a dark brown color of commercial hair coloring product was also used in some tests.
10× Washing and Treatment Procedures
The wax tab of a hair tress was cut into two separate parts. One half was used as the control test, non-treatment tress. The other half was used for treatment test. The control half was washed with 0.75 g 12% SLES solution for 2 min., with one minute shampooing with rubbing and one minute rinse under running warm tap water. Then the hair tress was dried with a cold air hair blow dryer. The wash cycle was repeated for 10 times. Three different treatment procedures were used, leave-in treatment, rinse off treatment and the combination of leave-in and rinse off treatment. For a leave-in treatment test, 0.30 g product was applied to a damp, one half of dyed hair tress before the first shampoo, massaged gently through the tress and dried with cold air hair drier, followed by washing with 12% SLES then treated again with the leave-in formulation and cold air blow dried. Then the SLES wash and treatment and blow dry cycle were repeated 10 times. For a rinse off treatment, hair tress was washed by the treatment shampoo and/or treatment conditioners, cold air blow dried and repeated 10 cycles against 12% SLES as a control. For the combination of leave-in and rinse off treatment, the damp hair tress was treated with 0.30 g product, massaged gently through the tress and dried with cold air hair drier, followed with wash by the treatment shampoo and/or treatment conditioners. The cycle was repeated 10 times.
At the end of 3×, 5×, 8× and 10× washes, the dried hair tresses were measured for L, a, values using a HunterLab colorimeter and dE was calculated as color changes after washes.
Color Analysis of Hair Tresses Before and after Multiple Shampoo Washes:
Hair color changes before and after washes were determined by dE.
Color changes were measured by measuring Hunter L, a and b values on a HunterLab colorimeter. dE was calculated using the following equations to evaluate color change before and after washes.
dE=((Lt−Lo)2+(at−a0)2+(bt−bo)2)1/2.
Where Lo, ao, bo, and Lt, at, bt are measured Hunter L, a, b color parameters before and after washing, respectively.
The larger value of dE reflects greater change of color. It is reported that color difference with dE greater than 1 are generally perceptible by eye.
% Color Protection=% dE improvement=(dE treatment−dE control)×100/dE control
A % dE improvement or % Color Protection over 10-15% is perceivable by eye.
Table 1 shows the results of color change of soaking liquor from dyed hair samples soaked in different polymer aqueous solutions (1% active), expressed as a Fading Index.
The results in Table 1 show that polymer #1 within the scope of this invention containing both a hydrophobic chain and a quaternary unit is the most effective in reducing hair dye dissolution in the critical first 30 min. soaking time. Polymers # 2 & #4 containing dimethylaminopropyl methaerylamide (DMAPMA) and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate)(DMAEMA) are within the scope of this invention and are effective as well. By contrast, comparative examples with polymers #3, 5, 6, are ineffective in reducing hair dye dissolution.
Table 1a provides results of a soaking test with hydrophilic polymers (PVP) which also fail to provide the fade resistance obtainable with certain aspects of the present invention. The results indicate the ineffectiveness of these polymers in reducing hair dye dissolution in water.
As comparative examples, other polymers were tested in both the soaking test and multiple shampoo washes. The results are given in Table 1b. Both the soaking and multiple shampoo wash tests demonstrate the ineffectiveness of these polymers.
Polymer Nos. 1, 2 and 4 from Example 1, which showed effectiveness in reducing hair dye dissolution in water, were tested in a clear gel formulation in a multiple shampoo washing test following the procedure described in the test method section. The hair tresses were treated with the anti-fading gel first, cold air blow dried and then washed with 12% SLES. The treatment and wash cycle was repeated 10×. As a control, the hair tress was treated with the same formulation without the polymer, 11506-85, then blow dried and washed with SLES. The test results are shown in Table 3.
The multiple shampoo washing test results in Table 3 demonstrate that polymers within the scope of this invention contain both a hydrophobic chain and a quaternary unit. Styleze W-20 (Example 4) provides the best color protection benefit. Consistent with the soaking test result in Table 1, a quaternary polymer, Conditioneze NT-20 (Example 5)(comparative), containing no hydrophobic chain and no DMAPMA or DMAEMA unit is ineffective.
Another chemical class of polymer, hydroxylethyl cellulose (HEC) modified with either an alkyl chain (hydrophobicity) and/or quaternization, was tested for anti-fading effect in the multiple shampoo washing tests. These polymers were formulated into the same test formula as specified hi Table 2, except Natrosol Plus (alky hydroxyl cellulose) in which Jaguar HP-60, Hydroxy propyl Guar gum, was not added. The multiple shampoo washing test results are given in Table 4 below.
The results in Table 4 demonstrate that the HEC derivatives containing both hydrophobic and quaternary units (Examples 8 and 9) provide acceptable levels of hair color fastness, especially in the important early washing stages.
A comparative composition containing an anionic polymer with a hydrophobic chain was tested. The anionic polymer was Styleze 2000, a copolymer of vinyl pyrrolidone (VP)/Acrylates/Lauryl Methacrylate, neutralized and formulated into the same test formulation and tested using the procedure specified in Examples 2-9. The results of the color fading test of this anionic hydrophobic polymer are given in Table 5 which shows that its effect on anti-fading is negligible or minor (<10%). The result from the soaking test is also listed in Table 5. Test results for the cationic hydrophobic polymer, Styleze W-20 is also listed showing the improved results obtained with the present invention.
This example shows the anti-fading effect of hydrophobically modified polymers plus a quaternizing agent. Aculyn 44 is a hydrophobically modified nonionic polymer and was formulated into a hair care leave in treatment together with a cationic surfactant, Hydroxyethyl Cetearamidopropyldimonium Chloride in a raw material with a trade name of Prolipid 161®. The leave in treatment formulation is listed in Table 6. The color fading test results are listed in Table 7.
Color fastness test results in Table 7 demonstrate that nonionic hydrophobically modified polymer plus cationic surfactant in Prolipid 161 provided significant benefit for anti-fading of hair color while either of them alone is ineffective by comparing test# 11-2 (inventive) to test# 11-1 and 11-3 (comparative).
Color fastness test results in Table 8 further prove that the anti-fading effect in the leave in treatment formula, 11337-82B, is attributable to the synergistic effect of hydrophobic polymer, Aculyn 44 and the quaternizing agent content in Prolipid 161.
Table 10 shows the color fastness results of a leave in treatment formula containing hydrophobic polymer, Aculyn 44, quaternizing agent content from Prolipid 161 and hydrophobic quaternary polymer, Styleze W-20. The formula ingredients are listed in Table 9. The daily leave in treatment formula provides 37% and 44% color protection with the two types of dye tested.
To further demonstrate the synergistic effect of polymer with a hydrophobic unit and a guat, hydroxypropyl guar gum which contains propyl unit was tested together with Prolipid 161 in color fastness test. Table 11 listed the test formula and the control test formula.
The color fastness results of the test formula and the control formula in Table 11 are shown in Table 12. Treatment with formula 11506-117 containing hydroxy propyl guar and Prolipid 161 which is within the scope of this invention provides 19% color protection after 10× washes (test# 13-2) while the guar gum alone (Test# 13-1) and Prolipid 161 alone (Test# 13-3) are ineffective after 10× washes.
The polymer within the scope of this invention contain both a hydrophobic chain and a quaternary unit, Styleze W-20® was formulated into a rinse off formula, a 2-in-1 shampoo formulation and a conditioner formulation to test its color fastness effect. The 2-in-1 shampoo and conditioner formulations are listed in Table 13 & 14. The rinse off formulations were either tested alone or together with a leave in gel formulation (Table 15) as specified bellow.
1. Styleze W-20® 2-in-1 shampoo wash versus 12% SLES wash as a control, 10 cycles
2. Styleze W-20® 2-in-1 shampoo wash versus the control with the 2-in-1 shampoo wash without Styleze W-20® in it, 10 cycles
3. First treatment to the hair with the leave in treatment formula, 10748-67, blow dried, followed by Styleze W-20® 2-in-1 shampoo wash vs the control with no Styleze W-20® in the leave in gel treatment, 11506-85 and SLES washes, 10 cycles.
4. First treatment to the hair with the leave in treatment formula, 10748-67, blow dried, followed by Styleze W-20® 2-in-1 shampoo wash and using Styleze W-20 conditioner and rinse vs the control with treatment containing no Styleze W-20® leave in gel treatment, 11506-85 and SLES washes, followed with application of no Styleze W-20® conditioner and rinse, 10 cycles.
Table 16 shows the color fastness test results of dyed hair treated with Styleze W-20 rinse off, leave in treatment or combination of both. Three commercial products were also tested using the same test procedure for comparison. The results in Table 15 demonstrate that Styleze W-20 in the 2-in-1 shampoo formula (10906-131A) provides 22% protection at the end of 10 washes (compare test# 14-1a, 14-1b with 14-1c), which is much better than the two commercial products (test # 14-6 & 14-7). The combination treatment from the leave in gel, 10748-67, and the 2-in-1 shampoo provides the highest color protection, 45% to 51% at the end of 10 washes (test# 14-2a and 14-2b), which is better than the commercial product 1 (test# 14-5) and significantly more effective than commercial product 2 & 3 (test # 14-6 & 14-7). Test 14-7 and 14-8 are the tests of W-20 leave in gel, 2-in-1 shampoo and conditioner against commercial color lock product 2 as the control using red hair color samples and dark brown dyed hair respectively. Both results show the W-20 leave in and rinse off treatment are about 40% superior than the commercial product.
This example demonstrates the importance of applying leave in treatment to the new hair color before first shampoo washes. Two different tests were conducted. First, newly dyed hair samples were treated with leave in formula, 10748-67, blow dried with cold air, followed by 12% SLES wash. The treatment, dry and wash cycle was repeated 10 time. In another test, newly dyed hair sample was washed with SLES first then treated with formula 10748-67, dried. This cycle was repeated by 10×. The results in Table 17 indicate that applying a leave in treatment before the first shampoo wash of new color is important, providing important color protection during early washes (compare test#15-1 & 2 with test#15-3).
Changes may be made by persons skilled in the art in the compositions and/or in the steps or the sequence of steps of the method of manufacture described herein without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as defined in the following claims.
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind | 371c Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/US08/87188 | 12/17/2008 | WO | 00 | 4/13/2011 |
| Number | Date | Country | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 61018055 | Dec 2007 | US |
