The present invention relates to improved aqueous dispersions of micronized organic UV filters and new sunscreen compositions, which comprise aqueous dispersions of micronized organic UV filters.
It has long been known that prolonged exposure to UV radiation can lead to the formation of erythemas or light dermatoses, as well as to an increased incidence of skin cancers, or accelerated skin ageing.
Various sunscreen formulations have been proposed which include materials which are intended to counteract UV radiation, thereby inhibiting the said undesired effects on the skin.
A great number of compounds has been proposed for use as UV filters in sunscreen formulations, especially soluble organic UV absorbers and insoluble micronized organic compounds.
Micronized insoluble organic UV absorbers produced according to the said method are used in sunscreen formulations and provide excellent UV protection and have an SPF rating which is at least as high as corresponding sunscreen formulations containing a known inorganic UV absorber.
GB-A-2303549 describes a method of producing micronized, insoluble organic UV absorbers, as well as a sunscreen composition comprising an aqueous dispersion of micronized insoluble organic UV absorbers. The method comprises grinding the insoluble organic UV absorber, in coarse particle form, in a grinding apparatus, in the presence of a polyglucoside.
WO 2007 071584 describes suitable anionic, nonionic and amphoteric surfactants with a HLB (Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance) value higher than 8, and preferably higher than 10 as grinding aids for the micronization process the organic UV absorbers are. This reference teaches that a multitude of cosmetic surfactants may be used for the micronization of insoluble organic UV filters, the most preferred dispersants being sodium alkyl sulfates or sodium alkyl ether sulfates. However, these mostly in rinse-off surfactants are not well accepted and irritant to the skin. More preferred are leave-on dispersants, which are mild to the skin.
WO 2009 068469 discloses many exemplary compositions for micronized dispersions. All formulations contain a thickening agent, such as xanthan gum for the prevention of sedimentation of the UV filter particles and thus for the increase of the shelf life of the dispersion. However, the use of xanthan gum requires the preparation of a concentrated thickener dispersion in a suitable solvent as an additional process step. This thickener dispersion is then mixed into the micronized UV filter dispersion in order to achieve a homogenous UV filter dispersion. For this solvent water/glycol mixtures are frequently used. Thus, the use of xanthan gum as thickener for micronized UV filter dispersions may also lead to a certain level of glycol in the sunscreen product which is not always desired in cosmetic formulations.
Thickening agents used in cosmetics include viscous liquids such as polyethylene glycol, synthetic polymers such as carbomer (a trade name for polyacrylic acid) and vegetable gums like xanthan gum. Some thickening agents may also function as stabilizers when they are used to maintain the stability of an emulsion.
Finally, the use of organic micronized filters may offer new benefits to the consumer due to their specific properties. Their UV protection spectrum can be extended to longer wavelengths of the UVA- and even beyond UV light—up to the blue visible light (up to 500 nm) without causing severe whitening of the skin, enabling enhanced and new areas of protection: very long UVA and near VIS light, for example, are known to efficiently induce free radicals in skin [Zastrow 2007]. Furthermore, short wavelength visible light is reported to be involved in specific pigmentation mechanisms like the tanning in darker skin types [Mahmoud 2010], the formation of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and of [Castanedo-Cazares JP1 et al; Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed. 2014 February; 30(1):35-42. doi: 10.1111/phpp.12086. Epub 2013 Dec. 3]. Hence, enhanced protection of the skin at longer wavelengths is a very important beneficial effect.
Therefore, the problem of the present invention was to overcome the outlined shortcomings in the formulation of micronized organic UV filters and to provide new benefits to cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations.
Surprisingly it was found that the use of glycols in aqueous dispersions of micronized organic UV filters can be circumvented by using thickener systems based on polyvinylpyrrolidone.
Therefore, the first aspect of the present invention relates to an aqueous dispersion (A), comprising a micronized organic UV filter selected from
(a1) the micronized compound of formula
wherein
wherein
wherein
wherein
wherein
wherein
C1-C20Alkyl denotes a linear or branched, unsubstituted or substituted alkyl group such as, for example, methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, n-hexyl, cyclohexyl, n-decyl, n-dodecyl, n-octadecyl, eicosyl, methoxyethyl, ethoxypropyl, 2-ethylhexyl, hydroxyethyl, chloropropyl, N,N-diethylaminopropyl, cyanoethyl, phenethyl, benzyl, p-tert-butylphenethyl, p-tert-octylphe-noxyethyl, 3-(2,4-di-tert-amylphenoxy)-propyl, ethoxycarbonylmethyl-2-(2-hydroxyethoxy)-ethyl or 2-furylethyl.
C2-C20alkenyl is for example allyl, methallyl, isopropenyl, 2-butenyl, 3-butenyl, isobutenyl, n-penta-2,4-dienyl, 3-methyl-but-2-enyl, n-oct-2-enyl, n-dodec-2-enyl, iso-dodecenyl, n-dodec-2-enyl or n-octadec-4-enyl.
C3-C10cycloalkyl is for example cyclopropyl, cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cycloheptyl, cyclooctyl, cyclononyl or cyclodecyl and preferably cyclohexyl. These radicals may be substituted, for example by one or more or equal or different C1-C4alkyl radicals, preferably by methyl, and/or hydroxy. If cycloalkyl radicals are substituted by one or more radicals, they are preferably substituted by one, two or four, preferably by one or two equal or radicals.
C3-C10cycloalkenyl is for example cyclopropenyl, cyclobutenyl, cyclopentenyl, cycloheptenyl, cycloocentyl, cyclononenyl or cyclodecenyl and preferably cyclohexenyl. These radicals may be substituted with one or more equal or different C1-C4alkyl radical, preferably with methyl, and/or hydroxy. If cycloalkenyl radicals are substituted with one or more radicals they are preferably substituted with one, two, three or four, preferably with one or two equal or different radicals.
Hydroxy substituted C1-C5alkyl groups are for example hydroxymehtyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl, hydroxybutyl or hydroxypentyl.
An alklyene radical is preferably a C1-C12alkylene radical, like for example methylene, ethylene, propylene, butylene, hexylene or octylene.
A cycloalklyene radical is preferably a cyclo-C3-C12alkylene radical, like for example cyclopropylene, cyclobutylene, cyclohexylene or cyclooctylene.
The alkylene- or cycloalkylene radicals may optionally be substituted by one or more C1-C5alkyl radicals.
If R1 and R2 are heterocyclic radicals, these comprise one, two, three or four equal or different ring hetero atoms. Special preference is given to heterocycles which contain one, two or three, especially one or two, identical or different hetero atoms. The heterocycles may be mono- or poly-cyclic, for example mono-, bi- or tri-cyclic. They are preferably mono- or bi-cyclic, especially monocyclic. The rings preferably contain 5, 6 or 7 ring members. Examples of monocyclic and bicyclic heterocyclic systems from which radicals occurring in the compounds of formula (1) or (2) may be derived are, for example, pyrrole, furan, thiophene, imidazole, pyrazole, 1,2,3-triazole, 1,2,4-triazole, pyridine, pyridazine, pyrimidine, pyrazine, pyran, thiopyran, 1,4-dioxane, 1,2-oxazine, 1,3-oxazine, 1,4-oxazine, indole, benzothiophene, benzofuran, pyrrolidine, piperidine, piperazine, morpholine and thiomorpholine.
Preferably the dispersion (A) according to the present invention does not contain any thickeners, which are preferably selected from propylene glycol, carbomer and vegetable gums, most preferablyxanthan gum.
Preference is given to compounds of formula (1), wherein
Of preferred interest are compounds of formula (1), wherein
Preferably R1 and R2 in formula (1) have the same definition.
Mostly preferred are compounds of formula (1), wherein
Very most preferably, the micronized organic UV filter (a1) corresponds to formula
Preferably, the micronized organic UV filter (a2) corresponds to formula
Preferably, the micronized organic UV filter (a3) corresponds to formula
Preferably, the micronized organic UV filter (a4) corresponds to formula
Vinylpyrrolidone copolymers or homopolymers according to component (b) in the scope of the present invention refer to polyvinylpyrrolidone and water-soluble polymers which contain 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone monomers and are accepted in cosmetic formulations for leave-on skin application to effect the thickening of micronized UV filter dispersions.
Preferably polyvinylpyrrolidone or Poly[1-(2-oxo-1-pyrrolidinyl)ethylen] (PVP; CAS-Number: 9003-39-8) is used as component (b) according to the present invention. PVP is the linear polymer that consists of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone monomers conforming generally to the formula
Preferably, the dispersion (A) according to the present invention comprises
the micronized organic UV filter (a1) corresponding to formula
and
(b) polyvinylpyrrolidone of formula
Preferably the dispersion (A) according to the present invention does not contain any glycol (diol) compounds.
A diol is a chemical compound containing two hydroxyl groups (—OH groups). This pairing of functional groups is pervasive and many subcategories have been identified. The most common industrial diol is ethylene glycol. Examples of diols in which the hydroxyl functional groups are more widely separated include 1,2-, 1,3-, 1,4-, 1-5 and longer diols, for example 1,4-butanediol HO—(CH2)4—OH, 1,5-pentanediol HO—(CH2)5—OH and bisphenol A, propylene-1,3-diol or beta propylene glycol, HO—CH2—CH2—CH2—OH, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol and neopentyl glycol.
More examples of glycol compounds are Arachidyl Glycol, Benzyl Glycol, Butoxydiglycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ceteareth-60 Myristyl Glycol, Cetyl Glycol, C14-30 Glycol, Decylene Glycol, Diethylene Glycol, Dimethoxydiglycol, Dimethylol Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Ethoxydiglycol, Hexacosyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Lauryl Glycol, Methoxydiglycol, Methylene Glycol, Myristyl Glycol, Octacosanyl Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Poly(1,2-Butanediol)-6 Propylene Glycol, Polybutylene Glycol-10, Stearyl Glycol, Triethylene Glycol or Tripropylene Glycol. The UV filters (a1)-(a4) which are used in the present invention are present in the micronized state and are preferably prepared by wet-milling processes. Any known process suitable for the preparation of microparticles can be used for the preparation of the micronized UV absorbers, for example:
Wet-milling and wet-kneading are the preferably used processes.
As milling apparatus for the preparation of the micronized organic UV absorbers (a1)-(a4) there may be used, for example, a jet mill, ball mill, vibratory mill or hammer mill, preferably a high-speed mixing mill. Even more preferable mills are modern ball mills; manufacturers of these types of mill are, for example, Netzsch (LMZ mill), Drais (DCP-Viscoflow or Cosmo), Bühler AG (centrifugal mills) or Bachhofen. The grinding is preferably carried out with a grinding aid.
Examples of kneading apparatus for the preparation of the micronised organic UV absorbers (a1)-(a4) are typical sigma-blade batch kneaders but also serial batch kneaders (IKA-Werke) or continuous kneaders (Continua from Werner and Pfleiderer).
For each example of the aqueous dispersion according to the present invention, the manufacturing process is carried out as following:
The UV filters (a1)-(a4) respectively are added to the aqueous homogenous dispersion comprising the dispersing agent containing water. This slurry is then milled together with zirconium silicate beads (diameter 0.1 to 4 mm) as grinding medium in a ball mill (as described previously) to a mean particle size of d50 from 100 nm to 170 nm. After the micropigment dispersion of the UV filters (a1)-(a4) respectively is obtained, it may be pH-adjusted and/or is formulated with a preservation system, and polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) (b) is added as a thickener system.
PVP is essentially water soluble and stock solutions with a high level of the polymer can be obtained. Thus the preparation of a pre-dispersion of the thickener in organic solvents, like propylene glycol, becomes obsolete.
The grinding of the sparingly soluble organic compounds used in the present invention is preferably carried out in the presence of a grinding aid.
Grinding aids may be any surface active ingredients that can be used as dispersing agents. Such surface active ingredients may comprise an anionic, a nonionic, an amphoteric or/and a cationic surfactant, or mixtures thereof.
Preferably the grinding aid is used in a concentration of 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.4 to 15% b.w. based on the total weight of the UV protection composition.
Useful grinding aids are alkyl polyglucoside (ga0).
Useful grinding aids are carboxylic acids and their salts (ga1), for example
Further useful grinding aids are fatty acid esters (ga2), for example
Preferred is isocetyl isostearate or glycol oleate.
Further useful grinding aids (ga3) are alkyl phosphates or phosphoric acid esters; such as DEA-oleth-3 phosphate.
Further useful grinding aids (ga4) are ethoxylated carboxylic acids or polyethyleneglycol (PEG) esters such as PEG-n Acylates, except PEG-n Stearate, PEG-n Oleate, PEG-n Cocoate, in which the carboxylic acids have alkyl group, ethoxylated or not, with 8 to 22 carbon atoms such as butyric, caproic, caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, myristoleic, palmitic, palmitoleic, linoleic, arachidic, arachidonic, behenic, eicosapentanoic, erucic or docosahexanoic.
Preferred is PEG-20 laurate.
Further useful grinding aids (ga5) are fatty alcohol polyethyleneglycol (PEG) ethers of fatty alcohols.
Where linear or branched fatty alcohols having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms (isopropyl, ethylhexyl, capryl/caprylyl, isotridecyl, myristyl, palmoleyl, isostearyl, linoyl, linolenyl, arachidyl, behenyl or erucyl.
Preferred is ceteth-10, Laureth-7 or PEG-10 behenyl ether (Beheneth-10).
Further useful grinding aids (ga7) are ethoxylated alkylphenols or ethoxylated alkylphenyl ethers such as PEG-10 nonyl phenyl ether.
Further useful grinding aids (ga8) are esters of polyol and mono-, di- or tri-glycerides such as PEG-10 polyglyceryl-2 laurate.
Further useful grinding aids (ga9) are esters of fatty acids and saccharose such as PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate or polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate.
Further useful grinding aids (ga10) are sorbitan mono- and di-esters of saturated and/or unsaturated fatty acids such as PEG-20 sorbitan Isostearate and polysorbate-80.
Further useful grinding aids (ga11) are surfactants which are generally acting as detergent or cleansing agents. Examples are listed below:
Anionic surfactants are designated as such due to the presence of a negatively charged fatty moiety. Such ionised moiety can be a carboxylate, a sulfate, a sulfonate or a phosphate. General form of anionic surfactant is
Preferred is Sodium dicocoylethylene diamine PEG-15 sulfate.
Acyl Isethionates salts such as sodium acyllsethionate, sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, alkylaryl sulfonates salts such as sodium alkylbenzene sulfonate, sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate; alkyl Sulfonates salts such as sodium alkylether sulfonate (sodium C12-15 pareth-15 sulfonate); Sodium C14-C16 olefin sulfonate, Sodium decylglucosides Hydroxypropyl sulfonate, or Sodium Laurylglucosides Hydroxypropyl sulfonate
Preferred is hydroxypropyl sulfonate.
Preferred is disodium alkylamido PEG-n sulfosuccinate (Disodium oleamido MEA-sulfosuccinate).
PEG-n alkyl phosphates such as DEA oleth-10 phosphate, di PEG-n alkyl phosphates (di-esters) such as dilaureth-4 phosphate.
Acyl glutamates such as Di-TEA palmitoyl aspartate, sodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate; Sodium stearoyl glutamate; Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate; Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate; acyl peptides such as palmitoyl hydrolysed milk protein, sodium cocoyl hydrolysed soy protein, TEA-cocoyl hydrolysed collagen; Sarcosinates or acyl sarcosides such as myristoyl sarcosine, Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate; taurates and sodium methyl acyltaurates such as sodium lauroyl taurate or sodium methyl cocoyl taurate.
Examples are cocamidopropyl amine oxide or lauramine oxide.
Surfactants that carry a positive charge in strongly acidic media, carry a negative charge in strongly basic media and form zwitterionic species at intermediate pH.
Examples are disodium acylamphodipropionate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphopropionate.
Surfactants that carry a positive charge; major interesting hair care for conditioning and anti-static effects.
Such as dimethyl alkylamine (dimethyl lauramine), dihydroxyethyl alkylamine dioleate, Acylamidopropyldimethylamine lactate (cocamidopropyl dimethylamine lactate).
Such as alkyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, Ethylhydroxymethyl oleyl oxazoline, alkyl aminoethyl imidazoline.
Examples are dialkyldimonium chloride (hydroxyethyl cetyldimonium chloride), alkylamido-propyl alkyldimonium tosylate (Cocamidopropyl ethyldimonium ethosulfate.
Further useful grinding aids (ga12) are silicones or organosubstituted polysiloxanes, i.e. any organosilicon polymers or oligomers having a linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, and essentially based of recurring structural units in which the silicone atoms are linked to each other by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond SiOSi), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being directly linked via a carbon atom to the silicone atoms.
Dimethyl siloxane terminated with hydroxyl groups (—OH) of the general formula
Crosslinking of siloxane structures such as Dimethicones.
Elastomer: medium crosslinking with a density that allows elongation/distorsion of the molecule. PEG-modified Dimethicone Crosspolymers are excluded.
Resin: high crosslinking with a density that provides some rigidity to the molecule
Dimethicone Crosspolymer in Cyclopentasiloxane; DC 9045 silicone elastomer blend (Dow Corning); Dimethicone Crosspolymer in Dimethicone; DC 9041 silicone elastomer blend (Dow Corning); polymer of Dimethicone (q.v.) crosslinked with a C3 to C20 alkyl group Dimethicone/Vinyldimethicone Crosspolymer; DC 9506 powder (Dow Corning); Dimethicone/Vinyldimethicone Crosspolymer in Cyclopentasiloxane; SFE 839 (GE silicones) or KSG 15(Shin-Etsu); copolymer of dimethylpolysiloxane crosslinked with vinyl dimethylpolysiloxane.
Examples are dispersing agents such as KP-545 (Shin-Etsu); acrylates/dimethicone copolymer in cyclopentasiloxane; copolymer of dimethicone and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or one of their simple esters; Siloxysilicates such as Trimethylsiloxy-silicates; T-resins; branched polymer of T-Units; Q-resins; branched polymer of Q-Units:
[(CH3)3SiO1/2]x[SiO2]y
Film-forming and water-resistant agents such as Trimethylsiloxysilicate; SR 399 (GE Silicones) or Wacker-Belsil TMS803 (Wacker Chemie); mixtures from Dow Corning such as DC 749 cosmetic fluid (Trimethylsiloxysilicate in Cyclopentasiloxane) or DC 593 fluid (Trimethylsiloxysilicate in Dimethicone); Alkyl-Modified Siloxanes (AMS); AMS improve spreadability and wash-off resistance.
For inorganic sunscreens, it improves particle dispersion, reduce the re-agglomeration and better long-lasting effect on skin.
Alkyl Dimethicone of the general formula
wherein
For example: Bis-Phenylpropyl Dimethicone (SF 1555 fluid; GE Silicone).
Alkyl Methicone of the general formula
wherein
Silicone waxes such as DC 2503 cosmetic wax (Dow Corning); Stearyl Dimethicone; DC 2502 fluid (Dow Corning); Cetyl Dimethicone; DC AMS-C30 wax (Dow Corning); C30-C45 Alkyl Methicone; DC 580 wax (Dow Corning); Stearoxytrimethylsilane and Stearyl Alcohol.
Also suitable are simethicones, which are mixtures of dimethicones having an average chain length of from 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units with hydrogenated silicates. A detailed survey by Todd et al. of suitable volatile silicones may in addition be found in Cosm. Toil. 91, 27 (1976).
Silicone emulsifiers particularly suitable for such kind of emulsions are those corresponding to the following formula
wherein
These compounds represent the oxyalkylenated organo-modified silicones. Other nomenclature used is PEG/PPG Dimethicones (Dimethicone copolyols) or Silicone polyethers which clearly show surface active properties necessary to emulsify.
Silicone emulsifiers which are particularly recommended correspond to formula
wherein
Preferred is dimethicone PEG/PPG-7/4 phosphate.
Preferably, the micronized insoluble organic UV absorber, prepared according to the method of the present invention, has a mean particle size in the range of from 0.01 to 2, more preferably from 0.02 to 1.5, especially from 0.05 to 1.0μ.
In a further embodiment of the present invention the dispersion of micronized UV filters is created in such a way that no thickener is needed to adjust the required viscosity level. These dispersions show a thixotropic behaviour, meaning that they are more fluid at high shear of the liquid, while at low shear the viscosity increases. This slows down the sedimentation of the dispersed UV filter particles when the product is stored, while at the same time the dispersion is pumpable when taken out of the container, or is formulated into the consumer product.
It was found that several emulsifiers are capable to act as grinding aids in the micronization process and stabilize the final micronized dispersion. Specifically, the grinding aids are selected from the group of glutamates, hydrolyzed Proteins, cyclic lipopeptides, polyglyceryl ester lactylates and sulfosuccinates. These materials are wide-spread in the formulation of sunscreens, daily creams and other leave-on cosmetics.
Thus, another aspect of the present invention relates to an aqueous dispersion (B) comprising
at least one UV filter selected from
(a1) the micronized compound of formula
wherein
wherein
wherein
wherein
wherein
wherein
This dispersion formulation enables the preparation of personal care products which contain at least one of the UV filters (a1)-(a4) and “leave-on” formulation additives only.
Preferably, the aqueous dispersion (A) according to the present invention comprises
20 to 60% by weight of at least one micronized UV filter selected from
(a1) the micronized compound of formula
wherein
wherein
wherein
wherein
wherein
wherein
In another embodiment according to the present invention the aqueous dispersion (B) comprises
20 to 60% by weight of at least one micronized UV filter selected from
(a1) the micronized compound of formula
wherein
wherein
wherein
wherein
wherein
wherein
In yet another embodiment according to the present invention the aqueous dispersion (C) comprises
20 to 60% by weight of at least one micronized UV filter selected from
(a1) the micronized compound of formula
wherein
wherein
wherein
wherein
wherein
wherein
The aqueous dispersions (A), (B) and (C) according to the present invention preferably do not contain any additional thickeners, which are preferably selected from propylene glycol, carbomer and vegetable gums, most preferablyxanthan gum.
The aqueous dispersions (A), (B) and (C) according to the present invention are particularly suitable for use in cosmetic and dermatological and pharmaceutical preparations.
Accordingly, the present invention also provides a sunscreen composition comprising
The sunscreen composition of the present invention may be produced by physically blending the micronized formulation of an insoluble organic UV absorber and carrier components by any conventional method, e.g. by simply stirring the two materials together. In a preferred procedure, a mixture of the coarse, insoluble organic UV absorber, the grinding aid, and the milling bodies are ground until the coarse, insoluble organic UV absorber has been converted into micronized form, as described earlier in relation to the production of the micronized insoluble organic UV absorber. After filtering off the milling bodies, e.g. quartz sand, glass balls or zirconium silicate balls, the filtrate, consisting of the micronized insoluble organic UV absorber and grinding aid components, may be blended with a cosmetically compatible carrier.
The sunscreen composition of the present invention may be formulated as a water-in oil or an oil-in-water dispersion, an oil or oil-alcohol lotion, a vesicular dispersion of an ionic or nonionic amphiphilic lipid, a gel, a solid stick or an aerosol formulation.
When formulated as a water-in oil or an oil-in-water dispersion, the optional cosmetically acceptable carrier preferably comprises 5 to 50% of an oil phase, 5 to 20% of an emulsifier and 30 to 90% of water, each by weight based on the total weight of the carrier. The oil phase may comprise any oil conventionally used in cosmetic formulations, e.g., one or more of a hydrocarbon oil, a wax, a natural oil, a silicone oil, a fatty acid ester or a fatty alcohol. Preferred mono- or polyols are ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin and sorbitol. The emulsifier also may comprise any emulsifier conventionally used in cosmetic formulations, e.g., one or more of an ethoxylated ester of a natural oil derivative such as a polyethoxylated ester of hydrogenated castor oil; a silicone oil emulsifier such as a silicone polyol; an optionally ethoxylated fatty acid soap; an ethoxylated fatty alcohol; an optionally ethoxylated sorbitan ester; an ethoxylated fatty acid; or an ethoxylated glyceride.
The sunscreen composition of the invention may also comprise further components which are known to perform a useful function in a sunscreen composition. Examples of such further components include, e.g., emollients, skin moisturizers, skin tanning accelerators, antioxidants, emulsion stabilizers, thickening agents such as xanthan, moisture-retention agents such as glycerin, film formers, preservatives, perfumes and colorants.
The UV absorber composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more than one additional UV absorbers as described in the Tables 1 and 2.
The cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations may be, for example, creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous/alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax/fat compositions, stick preparations, powders or ointments. In addition to the above-mentioned UV filters, the cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations may contain further adjuvants as described below.
As water- and oil-containing emulsions (e.g. W/O, O/W, O/W/O and W/O/W emulsions or microemulsions) the preparations contain, for example, from 0.1 to 60% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight and especially from 0.5 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of the aqueous dispersion according to the present invention, from 1 to 60% by weight, especially from 5 to 50% by weight and preferably from 10 to 35% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one oil component, from 0 to 30% by weight, especially from 1 to 30% by weight and preferably from 4 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one emulsifier, from 10 to 90% by weight, especially from 30 to 90% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of water, and from 0 to 88.9% by weight, especially from 1 to 50% by weight, of further cosmetically acceptable adjuvants.
The cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions/preparations according to the present invention may also contain one or one more additional compounds like fatty alcohols, esters of fatty acids, natural or synthetic triglycerides including glyceryl esters and derivatives, pearlescent waxes: hydrocarbon oils: silicones or siloxanes, organosubstituted super-fatting agents, surfactants consistency regulators/thickeners and rheology modifiers, polymers, biogenic active ingredients, deodorising active ingredients, anti-dandruff agents, antioxidants, hydrotropic agents, preservatives and bacteria-inhibiting agents, perfume oils, colorants, polymeric beads or hollow spheres as spa enhancers.
Cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulations are contained in a wide variety of cosmetic preparations. There come into consideration, for example, especially the following preparations:
The final formulations listed may exist in a wide variety of presentation forms, for example:
Of special importance as cosmetic preparations for the skin are light-protective preparations, such as sun milks, lotions, creams, oils, sun blocks or tropicals, pretanning preparations or after-sun preparations, also skin-tanning preparations, for example self-tanning creams. Of particular interest are sun protection creams, sun protection lotions, sun protection milk and sun protection preparations in the form of a spray.
Of special importance as cosmetic preparations for the hair are the above-mentioned preparations for hair treatment, especially hair-washing preparations in the form of shampoos, hair conditioners, hair-care preparations, e.g. pre-treatment preparations, hair tonics, styling creams, styling gels, pomades, hair rinses, treatment packs, intensive hair treatments, hair-straightening preparations, liquid hair-setting preparations, hair foams and hairsprays. Of special interest are hair-washing preparations in the form of shampoos.
A shampoo has, for example, the following composition: from 0.01 to 5% by weight of a UV absorber composition according to the invention, 12.0% by weight of sodium laureth-2-sulfate, 4.0% by weight of cocamidopropyl betaine, 3.0% by weight of sodium chloride, and water ad 100%.
Other typical ingredients in such formulations are preservatives, bactericides and bacteriostatic agents, perfumes, dyes, pigments, thickening agents, moisturizing agents, humectants, fats, oils, waxes or other typical ingredients of cosmetic and personal care formulations such as alcohols, poly-alcohols, polymers, electrolytes, organic solvents, silicon derivatives, emollients, emulsifiers or emulsifying surfactants, surfactants, dispersing agents, antioxidants, anti-irritants and anti-inflammatory agents etc.
The cosmetic and/or dermatological/pharmaceutical preparations according to the invention are distinguished by excellent protection of human skin against the damaging effect of sunlight.
Furthermore, the sunscreen compositions according to the present invention show beneficial effects relating to cell viability, the suppression of reactive oxygen species (ROS) as well as for the suppression of induction of gene expression related to skin aging and inflammation reactions.
In a beaker equipped with a stirrer 35.7 g of Sodium Myreth Sulfate (aqueous paste with 70 wt-% active matter) are dissolved in 801.8 g of deionized water. 275 g of decyl glucoside (50 wt-% active in water) are added, and the solution is adjusted to pH=4.5 with 62.5 g of a 20 wt-% aqueous solution of citric acid. Then 25 g of Simethicone (mixture of Dimethicone with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrated silica, 20 wt-% in water) are added. After homogenization 1250 g of the compound of formula
are added.
The slurry is passed twice through a colloid mill (Fryma) for homogenization. Then the colloid mill is switched to circulation mode and the slurry is wet-grinded for five minutes.
The mill is filled with 440 ml Draison grinding beads having a diameter of 0.3 to 0.4 mm. The pre-grinded slurry is transferred into a beaker equipped with a IKA stirrer. A Watson-Marlow pump is used for slurry circulation. The grinding compartment is filled with the slurry without running the mill, at low speed of the Watson-Marlow pump. The mill is switched on as soon as the initial pressure in the mill increases.
The fine grinding is carried out with the following parameters:
Rotation speed of the mill: 2389 rpm
Rotation speed of the pump: 20-40 rpm
IKA stirrer speed: 80 rpm
Power uptake for grinding: initial: 1420 W; at the end of the process: 550-500 W
Energy consumption: 3000 W/h
After 5h the fine grinding is finished. The mill is discharged, and the final product is stored at room temperature.
UV filter dispersion 1 contains rinse-off surfactants as grinding aids.
Using the same procedure, the UV filter dispersions 2-12 are prepared. Optionally, a preservation system is added to the UV filter dispersion.
The particle size of the micronized UV filter dispersions is characterized with a Mastersizer 2000 (Malvern Instruments) equipped with a wet dispersion unit. This instrument measures the particle size distribution of the dispersed particles by laser diffraction.
The d50 value is a measure for the average particle size of the micronized UV filter particles.
The compositions are summarised as follows:
The UV filter dispersions 1-12 contain only mild leave-on dispersants and are suitable for the formulation of mild cosmetic sunscreens and skin care consumer products.
Thickening of dispersions 1-5, 8 and 9 with polyvinylpyrrolidone:
5 g of polyvinylpyrrolidone are dissolved in 5 g water (preferably 24 h bevor the grinding) and mixed into the slurry with a stirrer.
The viscosity of the UV filter dispersions is analysed in a Contrave Rheomat RM115 viscosimeter, which determines the flow behaviour and viscosity of the sample.
The data demonstrate that the flow behaviour of the dispersions 6 and 7 based on mild dispersants as grinding aids is similar to dispersion 2 with added PVP, and do not require a thickener.
The below formulation efficacy (SPF, UVA-PF) was assessed with BASF Simulator (www.basf.com/sunscreensimulator; Herzog, B.; Osterwalder, U. In Silico Determination of Topical Sun Protection. Cosm Sci Tech. 2011; 62: 1-8).
Let swell Rheocare C Plus into water.
When homogenous add the rest of part B and heat to 80° C.
Add Part A into B under Turrax
Cool down to RT
Add ingredients of Part C under stirring
Continue stirring for a while
Let swell Rheocare C Plus into water.
When homogenous add the rest of part B and heat to 80° C.
Add Part A into B under Turrax
Cool down to RT
Add ingredients of Part C under stirring
Continue stirring for a while
Keratinocyte cell cultures are employed which are irradiated through UV transparent PMMA substrates on which the different sunscreens or a placebo formulation are distributed, respectively.
Four types of endpoints are used:
1. Cell viability,
2. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) formation,
3. DNA damage, and
4. Gene induction.
As light sources two light emitting diode (LED) arrays are used (Loctite), one emitting at 385 nm and the other at 405 nm. The emission spectra are shown in
Model sunscreens are prepared containing the filter compositions shown in Table 3. The SPF is calculated using the BASF Sunscreen Simulator software. The UV spectra of film absorbance simulated with the same program are shown in
The negative control (without irradiation) is set to 100% cell viability. The positive control refers to irradiation without any protection and gives in the case of 385 nm a reading of about 60% cell viability and in the case of 405 nm of 80%. In both cases the cell viability of the negative control can be achieved when using the sunscreen containing compound (1c).
The expression of these genes is induced by 405 nm radiation and a linear dose-response relationship had been demonstrated previously up to 150 J/cm2. In each case the induction is suppressed best by applying the sunscreen containing compound (1c).
The experimental work on keratinocyte cell cultures shows that a sunscreen of SPF 15 containing compound (1c) shows beneficial effects in comparison to a conventional sunscreen of SPF 15. The beneficial effects are related to cell viability, ROS production in the cells and expression of genes related to skin aging and inflammation reactions.
Number | Date | Country | Kind |
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16170307.9 | May 2016 | EP | regional |
This application is a division of U.S. application Ser. No. 16/302,466, filed Nov. 16. 2018, which is a national stage application (under 35 U.S.C. § 371) of PCT/EP2017/062075, filed May 19, 2017, which claims benefit to European Application No. 16170307.9, filed May 19, 2016, all of which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.
Number | Date | Country | |
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Parent | 16302466 | Nov 2018 | US |
Child | 17402097 | US |