Patent Application
20220387271
The instant disclosure is directed to sunscreen compositions, and to methods for using the sunscreen compositions to protect keratinous substrates such as skin and hair from UV radiation.
The negative effects of exposure to ultraviolet (“UV”) light are well known. Prolonged exposure to sunlight causes damage such as sunburn to the skin and dries out hair making it brittle. When skin is exposed to UV light having a wavelength of from about 290 nm to about 400 nm, long term damage can lead to serious conditions such as skin cancer.
UV light also contributes to aging by causing free radicals to form in the skin. Free radicals include, for example, singlet oxygen, hydroxyl radical, the superoxide anion, nitric oxide and hydrogen radicals. Free radicals attack DNA, membrane lipids and proteins, generating carbon radicals. These in turn react with oxygen to produce a peroxyl radical that can attack adjacent fatty acids to generate new carbon radicals. This cascade leads to a chain reaction producing lipid peroxidation products. Damage to the cell membrane results in loss of cell permeability, increased intercellular ionic concentration, and decreased ability to excrete or detoxify waste products. The end result is a loss of skin elasticity and the appearance of wrinkles. This process is commonly referred to as photo-aging.
Sunscreens can be used to protect against UV damage and delay the signs of photo-aging. The degree of UV protection afforded by a sunscreen composition is directly related to the amount and type of UV filters contained therein. The higher the amount of UV filters, the greater the degree of UV protection. Nevertheless, it is desirable to achieve the best photo protection efficacy with the lowest amount of UV filters. In particular, it is especially desirable to achieve high photoprotection with the lowest amount of UV filters when formulating with mineral UV filtering agents, since mineral UV filtering agents also result in a white color when applied to the skin when higher amounts are used in cosmetic formulations. The inventors of the instant disclosure discovered ways to formulate a mineral-based sunscreen with minimum or no whitening with good aesthetics and good efficacy.
The instant disclosure relates to sunscreen compositions which provide a high degree of sun protection and are aesthetically pleasing when applied to skin due to the presence of a high shear viscosity transition temperature which occurs at or around the temperature of skin. The sunscreen compositions include mineral UV filtering agents, which are known to be non-irritating, natural, and gentle to the skin. One drawback with mineral-based sunscreen compositions is that they often appear white when applied to the skin. Consumers prefer sunscreen compositions to appear natural (unnoticeable). Developing mineral-based sunscreen products having a high Sun Protection Factor (SPF) that exhibit minimal or no whitening, however, is challenging.
The inventors of the instant case discovered a combination of ingredients within a certain ratio that improve the feeling and aesthetic of the compositions. The sunscreen compositions in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion typically include:
In one or more embodiments, the sunscreen composition exhibits a high shear viscosity transition temperature once in contact with the skin temperature. In some embodiments, the sunscreen composition is free of silicone.
In some embodiments, the total amount of oil thickening agents is present from about 0.5% to about 4% by weight base on the total weight of the sunscreen composition. In one embodiment, the viscosity of the sunscreen composition is from about 0.1 Pa·s to about 5 Pa·s at 25° C. at 10 rad/s.
In some embodiments, the poly C10-30 alkyl acrylate has a melting point greater or equal to 30° C. In one embodiment, the poly C10-30 alkyl acrylate has a melting point from 40° C. to 50° C.
In some embodiments, the sunscreen compositions may include one or more emollients. In one or more embodiments, the one or more emollients are selected from dicaprylyl carbonate, dicaprylyl ether, isononyl isononanoate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, isohexadecane, and mixture thereof.
In some embodiments, the sunscreen compositions may comprise one or more emulsifiers. In some embodiments, the one or more emulsifiers are selected from glyceryl esters and derivatives, alkoxylated carboxylic acids and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the emulsifier comprises a mixture of a glyceryl esters and alkoxylated carboxylic acids. In some embodiments, the one or more emulsifier is polyglyceryl-4 isostearate. In some embodiments, the one or more emulsifier is PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate. In some embodiments, the one or more emulsifiers are present from about 1% to about 8% by weight base on the total weight of the sunscreen composition. In some embodiments, the one or more emulsifiers are present from about 2% to about 7% by weight base on the total weight of the sunscreen composition.
In some embodiments, the one or more mineral UV filtering agents are selected from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxides, cerium oxides, zirconium oxides, and a mixture thereof. In one or more embodiments, the one or more mineral UV filtering agents is present from about 1 to about 25 wt. % based on the total weight of the sunscreen composition.
In some embodiments, the sunscreen compositions may comprise one or more organic UV filters. In one or more embodiments, the one of more organic UV filters are selected from the group consisting of a para-aminobenzoic acid derivative, a salicylic derivative, a cinnamic derivative, a benzophenone or an aminobenzophenone, an anthranillic derivative, a β,β-diphenylacrylate derivative, a benzylidenecamphor derivative, a phenylbenzimidazole derivative, a benzotriazole derivative, a triazine derivative, a bisresorcinyl triazine, an imidazoline derivative, a benzalmalonate derivative, a 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivative, a benzoxazole derivative, a merocyanine, malonitrile or a malonate diphenyl butadiene derivative, a chalcone, and a mixtures thereof.
The instant disclosure also relates to methods for protecting skin from UV radiation comprising applying an effective amount of the sunscreen composition disclosed in the present case to the skin.
Implementations of the present technology will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the attached figures, wherein:
It should be understood that the various aspects are not limited to the arrangements and instrumentality shown in the figures.
Where the following terms are used in this specification, they are used as defined below.
The terms “comprising,” “having,” and “including” are used in their open, non-limiting sense.
The terms “a” and “the” are understood to encompass the plural as well as the singular.
The term “mineral UV filtering agent” is interchangeable with the terms “mineral UV screening agent,” “inorganic UV filtering agent,” “inorganic UV screening agent,” “mineral UV filter, and “inorganic UV filter.” Mineral UV filtering agents are compounds that do not include any carbon atoms in their chemical structures that are capable of screening out, scattering, or absorbing UV radiation between 280 and 400 nm.
The term “water phase”, defined herein, represents the sum total of all ingredients in the composition which are water-soluble or water-dispersible, and which are combined together with water during the preparation of the example emulsion compositions.
The compositions and methods of the present disclosure can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the disclosure described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful.
All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based upon the total weight of the compositions of the present disclosure, unless otherwise indicated.
All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For examples, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc. Furthermore, all ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges. Thus, a range from 1-5, includes specifically 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc.
Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term “about,” meaning within +/−5% of the indicated number.
As used herein, the expression “at least one” is interchangeable with the expression “one or more” and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
The term “treat” (and its grammatical variations) as used herein refers to the application of compositions of the present disclosure onto the surface of skin and/or hair. The term ‘treat” (and its grammatical variations) as used herein also refers to contacting the skin or hair with the compositions of the present disclosure.
The term “substantially free” or “essentially free” as used herein means that there is less than about 2% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, based on the total weight of the compositions. Nonetheless, the compositions may include less than about 1 wt. %, less than about 0.5 wt. %, less than about 0.1 wt. %, less than 0.01 wt. %, or none of the specified material.
The term “active material” as used herein with respect to the percent amount of an ingredient or raw material, refers to 100% activity of the ingredient or raw material.
“Cosmetically acceptable” means that the item in question is compatible with a keratinous substrate such as skin and hair. For example, a “cosmetically acceptable carrier” means a carrier that is compatible with a keratinous substrate such as skin and hair.
The term, “a mixture thereof” does not require that the mixture include all of A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F can be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the phrase “one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F.”
Likewise, the term “a salt thereof” also relates to “salts thereof.” Thus, where the disclosure refers to “an element selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof,” it indicates that that one or more of A, B, C, D, and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included.
The salts referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counter-ion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium counter-ion. This list of counter-ions, however, is non-limiting.
The phrase “viscosity” refers to the thickness of a fluid or composition and is a measurement of a fluid or composition's resistance to flow. Herein, “viscosity” is synonymous to “dynamic viscosity” or “absolute viscosity”, rather than “kinematic viscosity”, and is measured by means of a rheometer in a method which is known to those skilled-in-the-art. Measurements of viscosity herein are reported in pascal-seconds (Pa·s) unless otherwise specified.
The term “oil thickening” means any raw material which when combined with the oil phase of the emulsion results in a thickening action on said oil phase.
The term “aqueous phase” means water, water soluble, water miscible and water dispersible ingredients.
The expression “inclusive” for a range of concentrations means that the limits of the range are included in the defined interval.
The term “polymers,” as defined herein, include homopolymers and copolymers formed from at least two different types of monomers.
The term “INCI” is an abbreviation of International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a system of names provided by the International Nomenclature Committee of the Personal Care Products Council to describe personal care ingredients.
The term “weight ratio” or “mass ratio” as used herein, references the amount of a substance in proportion to a mixture containing said substance, and is calculated by dividing the amount of said substance by weight contained in the mixture by the weight of the mixture containing said substance. As an example, a weight ratio of 0.4 for substance A in a mixture of A, B, and C indicates that the weight of substance A divided by the total weight of substances A, B, and C is 0.4.
As used herein, all ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges. Thus, a range from 1-5, includes specifically 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc.
Some of the various categories of components identified may overlap. In such cases where overlap may exist and the composition includes both components (or the composition includes more than two components that overlap), an overlapping compound does not represent more than one component. For example, a fatty acid may be characterized as both a nonionic surfactant and a fatty compound. If a particular composition includes both a nonionic surfactant and a fatty compound, a single fatty acid will serve as only the nonionic surfactant or as only the fatty compound (the single fatty acid does not serve as both the nonionic surfactant and the fatty compound).
All publications and patent applications cited in this specification are herein incorporated by reference, and for any and all purposes, as if each individual publication or patent application were specifically and individually indicated to be incorporated by reference. In the event of an inconsistency between the present disclosure and any publications or patent application incorporated herein by reference, the present disclosure controls.
The instant disclosure relates to sunscreen compositions which provide a high degree of sun protection and are aesthetically pleasing when applied to skin due to the presence of a high shear viscosity temperature transition which occurs at or around the temperature of skin. The sunscreen compositions in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion typically include:
The sunscreen compositions of the instant disclosure exhibit a high shear viscosity transition point at or around skin temperature (30° C. to 40° C.) due to the specific ratio of oil thickening agents used in the composition, total amount of oil thickening agents used in the composition, and the range of amount of water phase in the composition. The sunscreen compositions are particularly unique in that they exhibit minimal or no whitening despite the presence of mineral UV filtering agents and a pleasing and aesthetic effect despite the fact the compositions are free of silicone.
In some embodiments, the sunscreen compositions exhibit a high shear viscosity transition at or around skin temperature. In one or more embodiments, the sunscreen composition is free of silicone.
The term “high shear viscosity transition” refers to the inflection point of largest viscosity transition between 25° C. to 70° C. at 10 rad/s. Physically, it represents an abrupt change in flow characteristics of a fluid or composition while applying shear as the temperature is increasing. In the present disclosure, it is a means to quantify the transformation of the composition from a thicker physical state to a thinner physical state (lotion to a liquid or cream to a liquid). The largest viscosity transition which occurs at high shear represents the transition which will be apparent to one who is applying the sunscreen composition on skin, and will therefore have the most apparent effect on overall aesthetics of the composition. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that a specific range of water phase and oil thickening agents present in the composition, along with the specific ratio of oil thickening agents, together make the inventive compositions exhibit a high shear viscosity transition which occurs at or around skin temperature. This is preferable for the invention in order to provide improved aesthetics of the inventive compositions related to the ease of spreading on skin, and improved distribution of product on skin.
Mineral UV Filtering Agents
In some embodiments, the one or more mineral UV filtering agents are selected from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxides, cerium oxides, zirconium oxides, and a mixture thereof. In some embodiments, the one or more mineral UV filtering agents is present from about 1% to about 25 wt. %, based on the total weight of the sunscreen composition. The total amount of mineral UV filtering agents in the mineral sunscreen compositions can vary but is typically from about 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9%, 10%, 11%, 12%, 13%, 14% to about 14%, 15%, 16%, 17%, 18%, 19%, 20%, 21%, 22%, 23%, 24%, or 25%.
Non-limiting examples of mineral UV filtering agent include treated or untreated metal oxides such as, for example, pigments or nanopigments of titanium oxide (amorphous or crystallized in rutile and/or anatase form), of iron oxide, of zinc oxide, of zirconium oxide or of cerium oxide. Particularly preferred mineral UV filtering agents include titanium dioxide and/or zinc oxide.
In some instances, the mean particle size may be about 5 nm to about 25 μm, about 10 nm to about 10 μm, or about 15 nm to about 5 μm. The mineral UV filtering agents may be nano-pigments having a mean particle size of about 5 nm to about 100 nm, about 5 nm to about 75 nm, or about 10 nm to 50 nm. Larger particles sizes may also be useful, for example about 1 μm to about 25 μm, about 5 μm to about 20 μm, or about 10 μm to about 15 μm.
Treated pigments are pigments that have undergone one or more surface treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds as described, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64, such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminium salts of fatty acids, metal (titanium or aluminium) alkoxides, polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen or elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides, sodium hexametaphosphate, alumina or glycerol.
The treated pigments may be titanium oxides treated with:
Other titanium oxide pigments treated with a silicone are TiO2 treated with octyltrimethylsilane and for which the mean size of the elementary particles is between 25 and 40 nm, such as the product sold under the trade name “T805” by the company Degussa Silices, TiO2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane and for which the mean size of the elementary particles is 21 nm, such as the product sold under the trade name “70250 Cardre UF TiO2SI3” by the company Cardre, anatase/rutile TiO2 treated with a polydimethylhydrogenosiloxane and for which the mean size of the elementary particles is 25 nm, such as the product sold under the trade name “Microtitanium Dioxide USP Grade Hydrophobic” by the company Color Techniques.
Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are sold, for example, by the company Tayca under the trade names “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 B” or “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 B”, by the company Degussa under the name “P 25”, by the company Wackher under the name “Oxyde de titane transparent PW”, by the company Myoshi Kasei under the name “UFTR”, by the company Tomen under the name “ITS” and by the company Tioxide under the name “Tioveil AQ”.
The uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
The coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
The uncoated cerium oxide pigments are sold under the name “Colloidal Cerium Oxide” by the company Rhone-Poulenc. The uncoated iron oxide nanopigments are sold, for example, by the company Arnaud under the names “Nanogard WCD 2002 (FE 45B)”, “Nanogard Iron FE 45 BL AQ”, “Nanogard FE 45R AQ” and “Nanogard WCD 2006 (FE 45R)” or by the company Mitsubishi under the name “TY-220”. The coated iron oxide nanopigments are sold, for example, by the company Arnaud under the names “Nanogard WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)”, “Nanogard WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556)”, “Nanogard FE 45 BL 345” and “Nanogard FE 45 BL” or by the company BASF under the name “Transparent Iron Oxide”.
Mixtures of metal oxides may also be used, especially of titanium dioxide and of cerium dioxide, including the silica-coated equal-weight mixture of titanium dioxide and of cerium dioxide, sold by the company Ikeda under the name “Sunveil A”, and also the alumina, silica and silicone-coated mixture of titanium dioxide and of zinc dioxide, such as the product “M 261” sold by the company Kemira, or the alumina, silica and glycerol-coated mixture of titanium dioxide and of zinc dioxide, such as the product “M 211” sold by the company Kemira.
The total amount of mineral UV filtering agents in the mineral sunscreen compositions can vary but is typically from about 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9%, 10%, 11%, 12%, 13%, 14% to about 14%, 15%, 16%, 17%, 18%, 19%, 20%, 21%, 22%, 23%, 24%, or 25% based on the total weight of the sunscreen composition.
Oil Thickening Agents
The total amount of oil thickening agent in the instant disclosure can vary, but is typically in the amount of about 0.5% to about 4% by weight of the total composition, preferably about 0.7% to about 3.7% by weight of the total composition, and more preferably about 1.0% to about 3.5% by weight of the total composition. The total amount of oil thickening agent in the sunscreen composition can vary but is typically from about 0.5%, 1%, 1.5%, 2% to about 2%, 2.5%, 3%, 3.5%, or 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the sunscreen composition.
In one or more embodiments, the water phase is present from about 20% to about 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the sunscreen composition.
The water phase in the sunscreen compositions can vary but is typically from about 20%, 35%, 40%, 45%, 46%, 48%, 50% to about 48%, 50%, 52%, 54%, 56%, 58%, or 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the sunscreen composition.
In one or more embodiments, the viscosity of the sunscreen composition is from about 0.1 Pa·s to about 5 Pa·s at 25° C. at 10 rad/s.
The viscosity in the mineral sunscreen compositions can vary but is typically from about 0.1 Pa·s, 0.2 Pa·s, 0.3 Pa·s, 0.4 Pa·s, 0.5 Pa·s, 1 Pa·s, 1.5 Pa·s, 2 Pa·s to about 2 Pa·s, 2.5 Pa·s, 3 Pa·s, 4 Pa·s, or 5 Pa·s measured at 25° C. at 10 rad/s.
The oil thickening agents used in the present disclosure can be selected from semi-crystalline or crystalline polymers and/or semi-crystalline or crystalline waxes. It is preferable to adjust the total amount of oil thickening agent, the ratio of oil thickening agents, and the amount of water phase in order to maintain the desired viscosity and high shear viscosity transition temperature of the composition.
(I) Semi-Crystalline or Crystalline Polymer
The semi-crystalline or crystalline polymer is preferably a semi-crystalline polymer. The term “semi-crystalline polymer” means polymers comprising a crystallizable portion, a crystallizable pendent and/or end chain or a crystallizable block in the backbone and/or at the ends, and an amorphous portion in the backbone, and having a first-order reversible temperature of change of phase, in particular of melting (solid-liquid transition). When the crystallizable portion is in the form of a crystallizable block of the polymer backbone, the amorphous portion of the polymer is in the form of an amorphous block; the semi-crystalline polymer is, in this case, a block copolymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type, comprising at least one crystallizable block and at least one amorphous block. The term “block” generally means at least five identical repeating units. The crystallizable block(s) are then of different chemical nature from the amorphous block(s).
The semi-crystalline polymer according to the present disclosure has a melting point of greater than or equal to 30° C., preferably ranging from 30° C. to 60° C., and in particular ranging from 40° C. to 50° C. This melting point is a first-order temperature of change of state.
This melting point may be measured by any known method and in particular using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 by the company TA Instruments.
Advantageously, the semi-crystalline polymer(s) to which the present disclosure applies has a number-average molecular mass of greater than or equal to 1000.
Advantageously, the semi-crystalline polymer(s) of the composition of the disclosure has a number-average molecular mass Mn ranging from 2000 to 800 000, preferably from 3000 to 500 000, better still from 4000 to 150 000 and especially less than 100 000 and better still from 4000 to 99 000. Preferably, they have a number-average molecular mass of greater than 5600, for example ranging from 5700 to 99 000.
For the purposes of the present disclosure, the expression “crystallizable chain or block” means a chain or block which, if it were obtained alone, would change from the amorphous state to the crystalline state reversibly, depending on whether the temperature is above or below the melting point. For the purposes of the present disclosure, a “chain” is a group of atoms, which are pendent or lateral relative to the polymer backbone. A “block” is a group of atoms belonging to the backbone, this group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer. Advantageously, the “pendent crystallizable chain” may be a chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms.
Preferably, the crystallizable block(s) or chain(s) of the semi-crystalline polymers represent at least 30% of the total weight of each polymer and better still at least 40%. The semi-crystalline polymers of the present disclosure containing crystallizable blocks are block or multi-block polymers. They may be obtained via polymerization of a monomer containing reactive double bonds (or ethylenic bonds) or via polycondensation. When the polymers of the present disclosure are polymers containing crystallizable side chains, these side chains are advantageously in random or statistical form.
Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers that may be used in the composition according to the present disclosure are of synthetic origin. Moreover, they do not comprise a polysaccharide backbone. In general, the crystallizable units (chains or blocks) of the semi-crystalline polymers according to the disclosure originate from monomer(s) containing crystallizable block(s) or chain(s), used for the manufacture of the semi-crystalline polymers.
According to the disclosure, the semi-crystalline polymer may be chosen from block copolymers comprising at least one crystallizable block and at least one amorphous block, and homopolymers and copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain per repeating unit, and mixtures thereof.
The semi-crystalline polymers that may be used in the disclosure are in particular:
In the last two cases, the crystallizable side chain(s) or block(s) are hydrophobic.
(i) Semi-crystalline polymers containing crystallizable side chains
Mention may be made in particular of those defined in documents US-A-5 156 911 and WO-A-01/19333. They are homopolymers or copolymers comprising from 50% to 100% by weight of units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers bearing a crystallizable hydrophobic side chain.
These homopolymers or copolymers are of any nature, provided that they meet the conditions mentioned previously.
They can result:
In general, these polymers are chosen especially from homopolymers and copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer containing crystallizable chain(s) that may be represented by formula (I):
with M representing an atom of the polymer backbone, S representing a spacer and C representing a crystallizable group.
The crystallizable chains “—S—C” may be aliphatic or aromatic, and optionally fluorinated or perfluorinated. “S” especially represents the group (CH2)n or (CH2CH2O)n or (CH2O), which may be linear or branched or cyclic, with n being an integer ranging from 0 to 22. Preferably, “S” is a linear group. Preferably, “S” and “C” are different.
When the crystallizable chains “—S—C” are hydrocarbon-based aliphatic chains, they comprise hydrocarbon-based alkyl chains containing at least 11 carbon atoms and not more than 40 carbon atoms and better still not more than 24 carbon atoms. They are especially aliphatic chains or alkyl chains containing at least 12 carbon atoms, and they are preferably C14-C24 alkyl chains. When they are fluoroalkyl- or perfluoroalkyl-chains, they contain at least six fluorinated carbon atoms and especially at least 11 carbon atoms, at least six of which carbon atoms are fluorinated.
As examples of semi-crystalline polymers or copolymers bearing crystallizable chain(s), mention may be made of those resulting from the polymerization of one or more of the following monomers: (meth)acrylates of saturated alkyl with the alkyl group being C14-C24, perfluoroalkyl (meth)acrylates with a C11-C15 perfluoroalkyl group, N-alkyl(meth)acrylamides with the alkyl group being C14 to C24 with or without a fluorine atom, vinyl esters containing alkyl or perfluoro(alkyl) chains with the alkyl group being C14 to C24 (with at least 6 fluorine atoms per perfluoroalkyl chain), vinyl ethers containing alkyl or perfluoro(alkyl) chains with the alkyl group being C14 to C24 and at least 6 fluorine atoms per perfluoroalkyl chain, C14 to C24 alpha-olefins such as, for example, octadecene, para-alkylstyrenes with an alkyl group containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
When the polymers result from a polycondensation, the hydrocarbon-based and/or fluorinated crystallizable chains as defined above are borne by a monomer that may be a diacid, a diol, a diamine or a diisocyanate.
When the polymers that are the subject of the present disclosure are copolymers, they additionally contain from 0 to 50% of groups Y or Z resulting from the copolymerization:
α) of Y which is a polar or non-polar monomer or a mixture of the two:
When Y is a polar monomer, it is either a monomer bearing polyoxyalkylenated groups (especially oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated groups), a hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylate, for instance hydroxyethyl acrylate, (meth)acrylamide, an N-alkyl(meth)acrylamide, an N,N-dialkyl(meth)acrylamide such as, for example, N,N-diisopropylacrylamide or N-vinylpyrrolidone (NVP), N-vinylcaprolactam, a monomer bearing at least one carboxylic acid group, for instance (meth)acrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid or fumaric acid, or bearing a carboxylic acid anhydride group, for instance maleic anhydride, and mixtures thereof.
When Y is a non-polar monomer, it may be an ester of the linear, branched or cyclic alkyl (meth)acrylate type, a vinyl ester, an alkyl vinyl ether, an α-olefin, styrene or styrene substituted with a C1 to C10 alkyl group, for instance α-methylstyrene.
For the purposes of the present disclosure, the term “alkyl” means a saturated group especially of C8 to C24, except where otherwise mentioned, and better still of C14 to C24.
β) of Z which is a polar monomer or a mixture of polar monomers. In this case, Z has the same definition as the “polar Y” defined above.
Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers containing a crystallizable side chain are alkyl (meth)acrylate or alkyl(meth)acrylamide homopolymers with an alkyl group as defined above, and especially of C14-C24, copolymers of these monomers with a hydrophilic monomer preferably of different nature from (meth)acrylic acid, for instance N-vinylpyrrolidone or hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, and mixtures thereof.
(ii) Polymers bearing in the backbone at least one crystallizable block
These polymers are especially block copolymers consisting of at least two blocks of different chemical nature, one of which is crystallizable.
As examples of such copolymers containing a crystallizable block and a separate amorphous block, mention may be made of:
α) poly(ε-caprolactone)-b-poly(butadiene) block copolymers, preferably used hydrogenated, such as those described in the article “Melting behaviour of poly(ε-caprolactone)-block-polybutadiene copolymers” from S. Nojima, Macromolecules, 32, 3727-3734 (1999),
β) the hydrogenated block or multiblock poly(butylene terephthalate)-b-poly(isoprene) block copolymers cited in the article “Study of morphological and mechanical properties of PP/PBT” by B. Boutevin et al., Polymer Bulletin, 34, 117-123 (1995),
γ) the poly(ethylene)-b-copoly(ethylene/propylene) block copolymers cited in the articles “Morphology of semicrystalline block copolymers of ethylene-(ethylene-alt-propylene)”by P. Rangarajan et al., Macromolecules, 26, 4640-4645 (1993) and “Polymer aggregates with crystalline cores: the system poly(ethylene)poly(ethylene-propylene)” by P. Richter et al., Macromolecules, 30, 1053-1068 (1997).
δ) the poly(ethylene)-b-poly(ethylethylene) block copolymers mentioned in the general article “Crystallization in block copolymers” by I. W. Hamley, Advances in Polymer Science, vol. 148, 113-137 (1999).
The semicrystalline polymers in the composition of the present disclosure may or may not be partially crosslinked, provided that the degree of crosslinking does not interfere with their dissolution or dispersion in the liquid fatty phase optionally present in the composition by heating above their melting point. It may then be a case of chemical crosslinking, by reaction with a multifunctional monomer during the polymerization. It may also be a case of physical crosslinking, which may then be due either to the establishment of bonds of hydrogen or dipolar type between groups borne by the polymer, for instance dipolar interactions between carboxylate ionomers, these interactions being in small amount and borne by the polymer backbone; or to a phase separation between the crystallizable blocks and the amorphous blocks, borne by the polymer.
Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers of the composition according to the present disclosure are not crosslinked.
According to one particular embodiment of the disclosure, the polymer is chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer containing a crystallizable chain chosen from saturated C14 to C24 alkyl (meth)acrylates, C11 to C15 perfluoroalkyl (meth)acrylates, C14 to C24 N-alkyl(meth)-acrylamides with or without a fluorine atom, vinyl esters containing C14 to C24 alkyl or perfluoroalkyl chains, vinyl ethers containing C14 to C24 alkyl or perfluoroalkyl chains, C14 to C24 alpha-olefins, para-alkylstyrenes with an alkyl group containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, with at least one optionally fluorinated C1 to C10 monocarboxylic acid ester or amide, which may be represented by the following formula (ω):
in which R1 is H or CH3, R represents an optionally fluorinated C1-C10 alkyl group and X represents O, NH or NR2 in which R2 represents an optionally fluorinated C1-C10 alkyl group.
According to one more particular embodiment of the present disclosure, the polymer is derived from a monomer containing a crystallizable chain chosen from saturated C14 to C22 alkyl (meth)acrylates and even more particularly poly(stearyl acrylate) or poly(behenyl acrylate).
As particular examples of structuring semi-crystalline polymers that may be used in the composition according to the present disclosure, mention may be made of polymers having the INCI name “Poly C10-C30 alkyl acrylate”, for instance the Intelimer® products from the company Air Products, for instance the product Intelimer® IPA 13-1, which is a polystearyl acrylate and a melting point of 48° C. of a melting point, or the product Intelimer® IPA 13-6, which is a behenyl polymer.
The semi-crystalline polymers may especially be:
those described in Examples 3, 4, 5, 7, 9 and 13 of patent US-A-5 156 911 containing a —COOH group, resulting from the copolymerization of acrylic acid and of C5 to C16 alkyl (meth)acrylate and more particularly of the copolymerization:
It is also possible to use the structure “0” from National Starch, as described in document U.S. Pat. No. 5,736,125, with a melting point of 44° C., and also semi-crystalline polymers with crystallizable pendent chains comprising fluoro groups, as described in Examples 1, 4, 6, 7 and 8 of document WO-A-01/19333.
It is also possible to use the semi-crystalline polymers obtained by copolymerization of stearyl acrylate and of acrylic acid or NVP as described in document U.S. Pat. No. 5,519,063 or EP-A-550 745, with melting points of 40° C. and 38° C., respectively.
It is also possible to use the semi-crystalline polymers obtained by copolymerization of behenyl acrylate and of acrylic acid or NVP, as described in documents U.S. Pat. No. 5,519,063 and EP-A-550 745, with melting points of 60° C. and 58° C., respectively.
Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers do not comprise any carboxylic groups.
Finally, the semi-crystalline polymers according to the present disclosure may also be chosen from waxy polymers obtained by metallocene catalysis, such as those described in patent application US 2007/0 031 361.
These polymers are homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene and/or propylene prepared via metallocene catalysis, i.e. by polymerization at low pressure and in the presence of a metallocene catalyst.
The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the waxes obtained via metallocene catalysis described in that document is less than or equal to 25 000 g/mol and ranges, for example, from 2000 to 22 000 g/mol and better still from 4000 to 20 000 g/mol.
The number-average molecular mass (Mn) of the waxes obtained via metallocene catalysis described in that document is preferably less than or equal to 15 000 g/mol and ranges, for example, from 1000 to 12 000 g/mol and better still from 2000 to 10 000 g/mol.
The polydispersity index I of the polymer is equal to the ratio of the weight-average molecular mass Mw to the number-average molecular mass Mn. Preferably, the polydispersity index of the waxy polymers is between 1.5 and 10, more preferably between 1.5 and 5, even more preferably between 1.5 and 3 and better still between 2 and 2.5.
The waxy homopolymers and copolymers may be obtained in a known manner from ethylene and/or propylene monomers, for example via metallocene catalysis according to the process described in document EP 571 882.
The homopolymers and copolymers of ethylene and/or propylene prepared via metallocene catalysis may be unmodified or “polar”-modified (polar-modified waxes, i.e. waxes modified such that they have the properties of a polar wax). The polar-modified waxy homopolymers and copolymers may be prepared in a known manner from unmodified waxy homopolymers and copolymers such as those described previously by oxidation with gases containing oxygen, such as air, or by grafting with polar monomers such as maleic acid or acrylic acid or alternatively derivatives of these acids. These two routes enabling polar modification of the polyolefins obtained via metallocene catalysis are described, respectively, in documents EP 890 583 and U.S. Pat. No. 5,998,547, for example, the content of these two documents being incorporated herein by reference.
According to the present disclosure, the polar-modified homopolymers and copolymers of ethylene and/or propylene prepared via metallocene catalysis that are particularly preferred are polymers modified such that they have hydrophilic properties. Examples that may be mentioned include ethylene and/or propylene homopolymers or copolymers modified by the presence of hydrophilic groups such as maleic anhydride, acrylate, methacrylate, polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), etc.
Waxy ethylene and/or propylene homopolymers or copolymers modified by the presence of hydrophilic groups such as maleic anhydride or acrylate are particularly preferred.
Examples that may be mentioned include:
(II) Semi-Crystalline or Crystalline Wax
Semi-crystalline or crystalline waxes are chosen from polar and apolar hydrocarbon-based waxes, or mixtures thereof.
The term “wax(es)”, under consideration in the context of the present disclosure are generally lipophilic compounds that are solid at room temperature (25° C.), with a solid/liquid reversible change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30° C., which may be up to 200° C. and especially up to 120° C.
In particular, the semi-crystalline or crystalline waxes that are suitable for the present disclosure may have a melting point of greater than or equal to 40° C., and less than or equal to 60° C. Furthermore, the semi-crystalline or crystalline waxes that are suitable for the present disclosure may have a melting point of less than or equal to 100° C., preferably less than or equal to 85° C., and especially less than or equal to 70° C.
The semi-crystalline or crystalline waxes used in the present disclosure can be semi-crystalline or crystalline apolar or polar wax.
(i) Apolar Wax
For the purposes of the present disclosure, the term “apolar wax” means a wax whose solubility parameter at 25° C. as defined below, 6a, is equal to 0 (J/cm3)½.
Apolar waxes are in particular hydrocarbon-based waxes constituted solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and free of heteroatoms such as N, O, Si and P.
The term “hydrocarbon-based wax” means a wax formed essentially from, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C. M. Hansen: The three-dimensional solubility parameters, J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).
According to this Hansen space:
The parameters δp, δh, δD and δa are expressed in (J/cm3)½.
More particularly, the apolar wax may be chosen from microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes and microwaxes, and mixtures thereof.
As microcrystalline waxes that may be used, mention may be made of Multiwax W 445® sold by the company Sonneborn, and Microwax HW® and Base Wax 30540® sold by the company Paramelt.
An ozokerite that may be mentioned is Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 P.
Polyethylene waxes that may be mentioned include Performalene 500-L Polyethylene and Performalene 400 Polyethylene sold by New Phase Technologies.
Polymethylene waxes that may be mentioned include the Polymethylene Wax sold under the reference Cirebelle 303, which has a melting point of 61° C. to 67° C.; and the Polymethylene Wax sold under the reference Cirebelle 108, which has a melting point of 79° C. to 84° C., sold by Cirebelle.
As microwaxes that may be used in the compositions according to the present disclosure as apolar wax, mention may be made especially of polyethylene microwaxes such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders.
(ii) Polar Wax
For the purposes of the present disclosure, the term “polar wax” means a wax whose solubility parameter at 25° C., 6a, is other than 0 (J/cm3)1/2.
The term “polar wax” here means a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially from, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.
As the hydrocarbon-based polar wax, a wax chosen from ester waxes is in particular preferred.
The term “hydrocarbon-based” means a compound formed essentially from, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms.
According to the present disclosure, the term “ester wax” means a wax comprising at least one ester function.
The following may especially be used as the ester wax:
i) waxes of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains in which the number of atoms ranges from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as 0, N or P and whose melting point ranges from 25 to 120° C.
In particular, use may be made, as the ester wax, of a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, or a C20-C40 alkyl stearate. Such waxes are especially sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®, Kester Wax K 80 P® and Kester Wax K82H by the company Koster Keunen.
ii) glycol and butylene glycol montanate (octacosanoate) waxes such as the wax Licowax KPS Flakes (INCI name: glycol montanate) sold by the company Clariant.
iii) bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, sold under the name Hest 2T-45® by the company Heterene.
iv) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R3-(-OCO—R4-COO—R5), in which R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R4 represents a linear or branched C4-C30 aliphatic group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) which may or may not contain one or more unsaturated groups, and preferably that is linear and unsaturated.
v) Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains, for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, and also the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim. Such waxes are described in patent application FR-A-2792190 and the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol such as that sold under the name Phytowax Olive 18 L 57, or the like.
v) beeswax, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, oxypropylenated lanolin wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumach wax, montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax and hydrogenated jojoba wax. Candelilla wax is preferably used.
Emollients/Oils
The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.
As examples of plant oils, mention may be made of, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
As examples of animal oils, mention may be made of, for example, squalene and squalane.
As examples of synthetic oils, mention may be made of alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.
The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present disclosure are derived is branched.
Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate.
Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic, or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy, or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
Mention may especially be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
As ester oils, one can use sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.
Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
The esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate, and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose, or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates, and oleostearates.
An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
As examples of preferable ester oils, mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrithyl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
As examples of ether oils, mention may be made of, for example, ether oils with a short hydrocarbon chain or chains, such as dicaprylyl ether.
As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made of, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate), and glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate/linolenate).
Emulsifiers
The sunscreen compositions may optionally include one or more emulsifiers such as an amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifier, used alone or as a mixture, and optionally a co-emulsifier. Emulsifiers are most often used when the sunscreen composition is in the form of an emulsion. The emulsifiers are chosen in an appropriate manner according to the emulsion to be obtained (W/O or O/W).
For W/O emulsions, examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include dimethicone copolyols, such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol sold under the trade name DC 5225 C by the company Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as the lauryl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning, and the cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90TM by the company Goldschmidt. A crosslinked elastomeric solid organopolysiloxane comprising at least one oxyalkylene group, such as those obtained according to the procedure of Examples 3, 4 and 8 of U.S. Pat. No. 5,412,004 and of the examples of U.S. Pat. No. 5,811,487, especially the product of Example 3 (synthesis example) of U.S. Pat. No. 5,412,004, such as the product sold under the reference KSG 21 by the company Shin-Etsu, may also be used as surfactants for W/0 emulsions.
For O/W emulsions, examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty acid esters; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof.
The fatty acid esters of a sugar that can be used as nonionic amphiphilic lipids can be chosen in particular from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters of a C8-C22 fatty acid and of sucrose, of maltose, of glucose or of fructose, and esters or mixtures of esters of a C14-C22 fatty acid and of methylglucose.
The C8-C22 or C14-C22 fatty acids forming the fatty unit of the esters that can be used in the emulsion comprise a saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl chain having, respectively, from 8 to 22 or from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty unit of the esters can be chosen in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidonates, palmitates, myristates, laurates, caprates and mixtures thereof.
By way of example of esters or of mixtures of esters of a fatty acid and of sucrose, of maltose, of glucose or of fructose, mention may be made of sucrose monostearte, sucrose distearate, sucrose tristearate and mixtures thereof, such as the products sold by the company Croda under the name Crodesta F50, F70, F110 and F160 having, respectively, an HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) of 5, 7, 11 and 16; and, by way of example of esters or of mixtures of esters of a fatty acid and of methylglucose, mention may be made of the disearate of methylglucose and of polyglycerol-3, sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name Tego-care 450. Mention may also be made of glucose monoesters or maltose monoesters, such as methyl O-hexadecanoyl-6-D-glucoside and 0-hexadecanoyl-6-D-maltoside.
The fatty alcohol ethers of a sugar that can be used as nonionic amphiphilic lipids can be chosen in particular form the group comprising ethers or mixtures of ethers of a C8-C22 fatty alcohol and of glucose, of maltose, of sucrose or of fructose, and ethers or mixtures of ethers of a C14-C22 fatty alcohol and of methylglucose. They are in particular alkylpolyglucosides.
The C8-C22 or C14-C22 fatty alcohols forming the fatty unit of the ethers that can be used in the emulsion of the instant disclosure comprise a saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl chain having, respectively, from 8 to 22 or from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty unit of the ethers can be chosen in particular from decyl, cetyl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl, palmityl, myristyl, lauryl, capryl and hexadecanoyl units, and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl.
By way of example of fatty alcohol ethers of a sugar, mention may be made of alkylpolyglucosides, such as decylglucoside and laurylglucoside sold, for example, by the company Henkel under the respective names Plantaren 2000 and Plantaren 1200, cetostearylglucoside, optionally as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, sold, for example, under the name Montanov 68 by the company Seppic, under the name Tego-care CG90 by the company Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302 by the company Henkel, and also arachidylglucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidyl and behenyl alcohols and of arachidylglucoside sold under the name Montanov 202 by the company Seppic.
Use is more particularly made, as nonionic amphiphilic lipid of this type, of sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose tristearate and mixtures thereof, the distearate of methylglucose and of polyglycerol-3, and alkylpolyglucosides.
The glycerol fatty esters that can be used as nonionic amphiphilic lipids can be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters formed from at least one acid comprising a saturated linear alkyl chain having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and from 1 to 10 glycerol units. Use may be made of one or more of these glycerol fatty esters in the emulsion of the instant disclosure.
These esters may be chosen in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates and mixtures thereof. Stearates and palmitates are preferably used.
By way of example of a surfactant that can be used in the emulsion of the instant disclosure, mention may be made of decaglycerol monostearate, distearate, tristearate and pentastearate (10 glycerol units) (CTFA names: polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 distearate, polyglyceryl-10 tristearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate), such as the products sold under the respective names Nikkol Decaglyn 1-S, 2-S, 3-S and 5-S by the company Nikko, and diglyceryl monostearate (CTFA name: polyglyceryl-2 stearate) such as the product sold by the company Nikko under the name Nikkol DGMS.
The sorbitan fatty esters that can be used as nonionic amphiphilic lipids chosen in particular from the group comprising esters of a C16-C22 fatty acid and of sorbitan and oxyethylenated esters of a C16-C22 fatty acid and of sorbitan. They are formed from at least one fatty acid comprising at least one saturated linear alkyl chain, having, respectively, from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and from sorbitol or from ethoxylated sorbitol. The oxyethylenated esters generally comprise from 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units, and preferably from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide (EO) units.
These esters can be chosen in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates and mixtures thereof. Stearates and palmitates are preferably used.
By way of example of sorbitan fatty ester and of an oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty ester, mention may be made of sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate) sold by the company ICI under the name Span 60, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate) sold by the company ICI under the name Span 40, or sorbitan 20 EO tristearate (CTFA name: polysorbate 65) sold by the company ICI under the name Tween 65.
The ethoxylated fatty ethers are typically ethers made up of 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and of at least one fatty alcohol chain having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty chain of the ethers can be chosen in particular from behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl and cetyl units, and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl. By way of example of ethoxylated fatty ethers, mention may be made of ethers of behenyl alcohol comprising 5, 10, 20 and 30 ethylene oxide units (CTFA names: beheneth-5, beheneth-10, beheneth-20 and beheneth-30), such as the products sold under the names Nikkol BBS, BB10, BB20 and BB30 by the company Nikko, and the ether of stearyl alcohol comprising 2 ethylene oxide units (CTFA name: steareth-2), such as the product sold under the name Brij 72 by the company ICI.
The ethoxylated fatty esters that can be used as nonionic amphiphilic lipids are esters made up of 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and of at least one fatty acid chain comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty chain of the esters can be chosen in particular from stearate, behenate, arachidate and palmitate units, and mixtures thereof. By way of example of ethoxylated fatty esters, mention may be made of the ester of stearic acid comprising 40 ethylene oxide units, such as the product sold under the name Myrj 52 (CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate) by the company ICI, and the ester of behenic acid comprising 8 ethylene oxide units (CTFA name: PEG-8 behenate), such as the product sold under the name Compritol HD5 ATO by the company Gattefosse.
The block copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide that can be used as nonionic amphiphilic can be chosen in particular from poloxamers and in particular from Poloxamer 231, such as the product sold by the company ICI under the name Pluronic L81 of formula (V) with x=z=6, y=39 (HLB 2); Poloxamer 282, such as the product sold by the company ICI under the name Pluronic L92 of formula (V) with x=z=10, y=47 (HLB 6); and Poloxamer 124, such as the product sold by the company ICI under the name Pluronic L44 of formula (V) with x=z=11, y=21 (HLB 16).
As nonionic amphiphilic lipids, mention may also be made of the mixtures of nonionic surfactants described in document EP-A-705593, incorporated herein for reference.
Suitable hydrophobically-modified emulsifiers include, for example, inulin lauryl carbamate, commercially available from Beneo Orafti under the tradename Inutec SP1.
The total amount of emulsifiers in the sunscreen compositions, if present, may vary but are typically about 0.1 to about 30 wt. %, based on the total weight of the sunscreen composition. In some instances, the total amount of emulsifiers is about 0.1 to about 20 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 15 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 10 wt. %, about 0.5 to about 30 wt. %, about 0.5 to about 20 wt. %, about 0.5 to about 15 wt. %, about 0.5 to about 10 wt. %, about 1 to about 30 wt. %, about 1 to about 20 wt. %, about 1 to about 15 wt. %, about 1 to about 10 wt. %, or about 5 to about 5 wt. %, based on the total weight of the sunscreen composition.
Active Agents
Sunscreen compositions according to the present disclosure can optionally further include active agents. Suitable active agents include, for example, anti-acne agents, antimicrobial agents, anti-inflammatory agents, analgesics, anti-erythemal agents, antiruritic agents, antiedermal agents, antipsoriatic agents, antifungal agents, skin protectants, vitamins, antioxidants, scavengers, antiirritants, antibacterial agents, antiviral agents, antiaging agents, protoprotection agents, hair growth enhancers, hair growth inhibitors, hair removal agents, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, exfoliating agents, wound healing agents, anti-ectoparacitic agents, sebum modulators, immunomodulators, hormones, botanicals, moisturizers, astringents, cleansers, sensates, antibiotics, anesthetics, steroids, tissue healing substances, tissue regenerating substances, hydroxyalkyl urea, amino acids, peptides, minerals, ceramides, biohyaluronic acids, vitamins, skin lightening agents, self-tanning agents, coenzyme Q10, niacinimide, capcasin, caffeine, and any combination of any of the foregoing.
Adjuvants
Sunscreen compositions according to the present disclosure can optionally include one or more adjuvants, such as pH adjusters, emollients, humectants, conditioning agents, moisturizers, chelating agents, propellants, rheology modifiers and emulsifiers such as gelling agents, colorants, fragrances, odor masking agents, UV stabilizer, preservatives, and any combination of any of the foregoing. Examples of pH adjusters include, but are not limited to, aminomethyl propanol, aminomethylpropane diol, triethanolamine, triethylamine, citric acid, sodium hydroxide, acetic acid, potassium hydroxide, lactic acid, and any combination thereof.
Suitable conditioning agents include, but are not limited to, cyclomethicone; petrolatum; dimethicone; dimethiconol; silicone, such as cyclopentasiloxane and diisostearoyl trimethylolpropane siloxy silicate; sodium hyaluronate; isopropyl palmitate; soybean oil; linoleic acid; PPG-12/saturated methylene diphenyldiisocyanate copolymer; urea; amodimethicone; trideceth-12; cekimonium chloride; diphenyl dimethicone; propylene glycol; glycerin; hydroxyalkyl urea; tocopherol; quaternary amines; and any combination thereof.
Suitable preservatives include, but are not limited to, chlorophenesin, sorbic acid, disodium ethylenedinitrilotetraacetate, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, phytic acid, imidazolidinyl urea, sodium dehydroacetate, benzyl alcohol, methylehloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone, and any combination thereof.
Organic UV Filters
In some embodiments, the sunscreen compositions can further comprise one or more organic UV filters. In some embodiments, the one of more organic UV filters are selected from the group consisting of a para-aminobenzoic acid derivative, a salicylic derivative, a cinnamic derivative, a benzophenone or an aminobenzophenone, an anthranillic derivative, a β,β-diphenylacrylate derivative, a benzylidenecamphor derivative, a phenylbenzimidazole derivative, a benzotriazole derivative, a triazine derivative, a bisresorcinyl triazine, an imidazoline derivative, a benzalmalonate derivative, a 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivative, a benzoxazole derivative, a merocyanine, malonitrile or a malonate diphenyl butadiene derivative, a chalcone, and a mixture thereof.
In some cases, the one or more organic UV filters is in an amount of from 0.001 wt. % to about 30 wt. %, about 0.001 to about 20 wt. %, 0.001 to about 10 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 30 wt. %, about 0.1 wt. % to about 25 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 20 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 18 wt. %, 0.1 to about 15 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 12 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 10 wt. %, 0.1 to about 8 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 6 wt. %, about 1 wt. % to about 30 wt. %, about 0.1 wt. % to about 25 wt. %, about 1 wt. % to about 20 wt. %, about 1 wt. % to about 18 wt. %, about 1 wt. % to about 15 wt. %, about 1 wt. % to about 12 wt. %, about 1 wt. % to about 10 wt. %, about 1 wt. % to about 8 wt. %, about 1 wt. % to about 6 wt. %, about 5 wt. % to about 30 wt. %, about 5 wt. % to about 25 wt. %, about 5 wt. % to about 20 wt. %, about 5 wt. % to about 18 wt. %, about 5 wt % to about 15 wt. %, about 5 wt. % to about 12 wt. %, about 5 wt. % to about 10 wt. %, about 5 wt. % to about 8 wt. %, or from about 3 wt. % to about 20 wt. %, wherein the weight percent is based on the total weight of the sunscreen composition.
The instant disclosure also relates to methods for protecting skin from UV radiation comprising applying an effective amount of the sunscreen composition of claim 1 to the skin.
The following Examples are provided for illustrative purposes only, and are not intended to be limiting.
Sunscreen compositions in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion were studied. The interest of the W/O sunscreen emulsions was that they were containing oil thickening agents as well as a specific ratio of oil phase to water phase, and thus were transformed from a lotion to a liquid when they were in contact with the skin. Details for the sunscreen compositions are provided in Table 1 below.
In making the formulation in the above table, the following procedure was used.
W/O sunscreens emulsions were studied in order to show the physical transformation of the emulsion from lotion to liquid once in contact with the skin. In order to show this unique property, the viscosity as well as the high shear viscosity transition temperature of the composition were measured. The results are presented in the Tables below. The inventive examples presented in Table 2 were prepared according to the procedure described in Example 1.
The following procedures to measure the viscosity and the high shear transition temperatures were used: Compositions were analyzed using a hybrid rheometer (Model: DHR-3 from TA Instruments) equipped with an advanced peltier plate (for temperature control) using a 40 mm stainless steel cross-hatched geometry. Dynamic viscosity is recorded at 25° C. at 10 rad/s. The high shear viscosity transition temperature was calculated by identifying the inflection point of the largest change in viscosity measured at a constant flow rate (10 rad/s) during a constant ramp in temperature of 3° C./min from 25° C. to 70° C. The inflection point was calculated as the temperature at which the slope of the dynamic viscosity over the temperature range of 25° C. to 70° C. is at a minimum value. For all samples, a preshear was performed (20 s at 10 rad/s at 25° C.) before measurement of dynamic viscosity and before the temperature ramp was applied.
The viscosity of the inventive examples was measured. The numbers measured were between about 0.3 to about 1.5 Pa·s. and the high shear viscosity transition temperatures measured were about 30° C. to about 40° C. at 10 rad/s.
The comparative examples presented in Table 3 were prepared according to the procedure described in Example 1.
The same procedures to measure the viscosity and the high shear viscosity transition temperatures were used and were described above.
The viscosity of the comparative examples was measured and were between about 0.3 Pa·s to about 12 Pa·s. and the high shear viscosity transition temperatures measured were about 43° C. to about 69° C. at 10 rad/s.
Results
According to the data collected for the inventive and comparative examples, it is apparent that the total amount of oil thickening agents, the ratio of poly C10-30 alkyl acrylate and hydrogenated jojoba oil, and the total amount of the water phase are correlated to both the viscosity and high shear viscosity transition temperature. The combination of the amount of oil thickening agents, the ratio of oil thickening agents, and amount of water phase define the examples which fit the summary of the instant disclosure, and which allow for one skilled-in-the-art to prepare compositions which have a suitable viscosity and high shear viscosity transition temperature in order to exhibit the aesthetically-pleasing qualities described in the present case.
In the inventive examples, when the total amount of oil thickeners was about between 0.5% and not more than about 4.0%, where the total water phase was about 20% to about 60%, and where the amount of hydrogenated jojoba oil is no more than 1.5 times the amount of poly C10-30 alkyl acrylate, the viscosity remained low (less than 5 Pa.$) and the high sheer transition temperature was in the range of the skin temperature (30-40° C.), which allow to have the transition from the emulsion state to the liquid state.
This was not the case for the comparative examples.
Indeed, in the case of the Comp. Ex. 3, the viscosity was very high (11.79 Pa·s), due to having a high amount of poly C10-30 alkyl acrylate in the absence of hydrogenated jojoba oil. This example demonstrates that the combination of both oil thickeners is needed to obtain a low viscosity. In comparative examples 1, 2, and 4, the amount of hydrogenated jojoba oil is more than 1.5 times the amount of poly C10-30 alkyl acrylate, and as a result the high shear viscosity transition temperature is above the range of skin temperature (above 43° C.). In particular, comparative example 4 does not contain any poly C10-30 alkyl acrylate, which results in a high shear viscosity transition temperature well above the desired inventive range (68.942° C.). Comparison of inventive examples Ex. 4 and Ex. 5 with Comparative Ex. 1 indicates the specificity of the ratio of hydrogenated jojoba oil to poly C10-30 alkyl acrylate. Notably, Ex. 4 and Ex. 5 are included within the summary of the current disclosure; however, when a larger amount of hydrogenated jojoba oil is used (Comparative Ex. 1), the high shear viscosity transition temperature increases beyond the range of skin temperature specified by the summary of the current disclosure (30° C. to 40° C.).
| Number | Date | Country | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Parent | 16182051 | Nov 2018 | US |
| Child | 17885098 | US |
