Patent Application
20050037037
The present invention relates to novel mixtures of macrocyclic musk fragrances, the use of these mixtures in fragrance compositions and perfumed products containing these mixtures.
Fragrances are used in numerous products to improve the odor. The impression of freshness and cleanliness in the case of, for example, air fresheners and also detergents and cleaning agents can be distinctly intensified by perfuming. The use of fragrances therefore constitutes a product improvement.
Compounds with a musk odor play an exceptional role in the perfume industry. Because of their unique property of harmonizing fragrance compositions, imparting personality to them and at the same time increasing their bonding, musk fragrances are nowadays found in considerable amounts in virtually every perfume oil. Accordingly, the annual world demand for musk fragrances is several thousand tonnes. The major proportion is made up of the so called “polycyclic aromatic” musk bodies. Typical representatives of this class of compounds are, for example, 1,3,4,6,7,8,8-hexahydro-4,6,6,8-hexamethylcyclopenta-(g)-2-benzopyrane (1) and 6-acetyl-1,1,2,4,4,7-hexamethyltetralin (2).
It is known that polycyclic aromatic musk fragrances are poorly biodegradable and, as extremely lipophilic compounds, display bioaccumulative behaviour, i.e. are able to accumulate in the fatty tissue of living organisms.
Macrocyclic musk fragrances, on the other hand, are accepted as biodegradable (R. Fenn, 1999, Perfumer & Flavorist, pp. 17-27; H. Gebauer, T. Bouter, 1997, Euro Cosmetics, pp.
In general, however, because of the generally increasing sensitization, it is of interest to keep the amounts of fragrances that pass into the environment as low as possible.
Mixtures of cylcopentadecanone (3), hexadecanolide (4) and pentadecanolide (oxacyclohexadecan-2-one) (5) are described in WO 98/32820 as particularly substantive on skin, hair and textile fibres.
Further mixtures are described as the direct product from the synthesis, such as in the case of cyclic ethylene glycol dodecanedioate (6) and ethylene glycol undecanedioate (7) (EP-A 905 222) or cyclotridecanolide (8), cyclotetradecanolide (9) and cyclopentadecanolide (5) (JP 2001/152177).
There is an urgent need for musk fragrances which have an odor that is stronger than that of the known macrocyclic musk fragrances.
The mixtures according to the invention surprisingly have a stronger odor than the individual substances in the same amount.
The invention therefore relates to mixtures containing
The individual musk fragrances have the following structures:
For the same amount used, these mixtures of various musk fragrances display a higher intensity than the relevant individual fragrances. As a result of this synergistic effect, the mixtures on their own and products perfumed therewith are perceived more strongly. A considerable advantage in use is achieved.
The intensity of a substance or substance mixture describes the strength of the odor impression. The stronger the odor of a substance or substance mixture, the higher is the value for the intensity.
The fragrances were dipped on their own and as mixtures in various compositions on perfume strips and assessed by a trained group of experts with at least 12 participants (tester group). The testers assessed the intensity. Different ratios of fragrances with respect to one another showed different results. It was found that certain ratios of fragrances were surprisingly particularly intense.
Furthermore, fragrances were incorporated, on their own and as mixtures in various compositions, into various products. The intensity in different application stages of the products concerned was assessed by a tester group. It was found that certain ratios of fragrances were surprisingly particularly intensive in use.
Mixtures characterized in that the ratio of 10 to 5 or 11 is between 4:1 and 1:4 are preferred; particularly preferentially the ratio of 10 to 5 or 11 is between 2:1 and 1:2 and especially preferentially between 3.2 and 2.3.
Mixtures characterized in that the ratio of 12 to 5 or 11 is between 9:1 and 2:3, particularly preferentially between 6:1 and 1:1 and especially preferentially between 4.1 and 3.2 are preferred.
Mixtures characterized in that the ratio of 10 to 12 is between 9:1 and 2:3, particularly preferentially between 6:1 and 1:1 and especially preferentially between 4:1 and 3:2 are particularly suitable.
A further part of the invention relates to fragrance compositions that contain the mixtures according to the invention.
Fragrance compositions containing 0.01-60% (m/m), preferably 0.1-40% (mn/m) and particularly preferentially 1.5-25% (m/m) of the mixtures according to the invention are particularly suitable.
As a result of the higher intensity of the substance mixtures found, it is possible to use a smaller amount of the mixture in perfumed products, compared with the individual substances. This is advantageous with a view to the environment. Furthermore, a perfumer retains a greater freedom in creation, since the latter as a rule has a price limit for the costs of a perfume oil.
It has been found that, when the mixtures according to the invention are used, a different concentration ratio can arise in the gas space above the product, depending on the rate of evaporation and on the formulation-dependent release from perfumed products. Similarly, the concentrations in the gas space above perfumed products used, for example aqueous solutions thereof or substrates perfumed by these products, such as, for example, skin, hair, wool, cotton and synthetic materials, can deviate from the ratios in the perfume mixture.
Moreover, it has been found that the mixtures have a particularly good affinity for wool, cotton, skin, hair, synthetic materials and smooth and structured surfaces.
Furthermore, a fixing action on other constituents of a perfuming and an effect of intensifying other fragrances in perfumed products (“booster” effect) were found.
The fragrances present in the mixtures according to the invention can be prepared in accordance with syntheses described in the literature, for example the syntheses of 10 and 12 according to Mookherje, Trenkle and Patel (Journal of Organic Chemistry, 1971, pp. 3266-3270), of 11 according to Ogibin, Terent'ev und Nikishin (Russian Chemical Bulletin, 1998, pp. 1166-1169) and of 5 according to Ohloff (Riechstoffe and Geruchssinn. Die molekulare Welt der Düifte, Springer Verlag, Berlin, 1990, pp. 200 et seq.), or are available commercially.
The mixtures according to the invention are particularly suitable for combination with further musk fragrances such as, for example, 1,4-dioxacycloheptadecan-5,17-dione, cis-4-cyclopentadecenone, 3-methylcyclopentadecanone, 1,7-dioxacycloheptadecan-8-one, oxacycloheptadec-8-en-2-one, 5-cyclohexadecen-1-one, cyclopentadecanone, 3-methylcyclopentadec-4-enone/3-methylcyclopentadec-5-enone, 1,3,4,6,7,8,8-hexahydro-4,6,6,8-hexamethylcyclopenta-(g)-2-benzopyrane (1) and 6-acetyl-1,1,2,4,4,7-hexamethyltetralin (2).
Examples of fragrances with which the mixtures according to the invention can be combined are given, for example, in K. Bauer, D. Garbe and H. Surburg, Common Fragrance and Flavor Materials, 3rd. Ed., Wiley-VCH, Weinheim 1997.
The following particularly suitable fragrances may be mentioned individually: extracts from natural raw materials such as essential oils, concretes, absolutes, resins, resinoids, balsams, tinctures, such as, for example, ambergris tincture; amyris oil; angelica seed oil; angelica root oil; aniseed oil; valerian oil; basil oil; wood moss absolute; bay oil; mugwort oil; benzoin resin; bergamot oil; beeswax absolute; birch tar oil; bitter almond oil; savory oil; bucho leaf oil; cabreuva oil; cade oil; calamus oil; camphor oil; cananga oil; cardamom oil; cascarilla oil; cassia oil; cassia absolute; castoreum absolute; cedar leaf oil; cedarwood oil; cistus oil; citronella oil; lemon oil; copaiva balsam; copaiva balsam oil; coriander oil; costus root oil; cumin oil; cypress oil; davana oil; dill herb oil; dill seed oil; eau de brouts absolute; oakmoss absolute; elemi oil; tarragon oil; eucalyptus citriodora oil; eucalyptus oil; fennel oil; spruce needle oil; galbanum oil; galbanum resin; geranium oil; grapefruit oil; guaiac wood oil; gurjun balsam; gurjun balsam oil; helichrysum absolute; helichrysum oil; ginger oil; iris root absolute; iris root oil; jasmine absolute; calamus oil; camomile oil blue; Roman camomile oil; carrot seed oil; cascarilla oil; pine needle oil; spearmint oil; caraway oil; labdanum oil; labdanum absolute; ladanum resin; lavandin absolute; lavandin oil; lavender absolute; lavender oil; lemongrass oil; lovage oil; distilled lime oil; pressed lime oil; linaloe oil; litsea cubeba oil; bayleaf oil; mace oil; marjoram oil; mandarin oil; massoi bark oil; mimosa absolute; musk seed oil; musk tincture; clary oil; nutmeg oil; myrrh absolute; myrrh oil; myrtle oil; clove leaf oil; clove blossom oil; neroli oil; olibanum absolute; olibanum oil; opopanax oil; orange blossom absolute; orange oil; origanum oil; palmarosa oil; patchouli oil; perilla oil; Peruvian balsam oil; parsley leaf oil; parsley seed oil; petitgrain oil; peppermint oil; pepper oil; pimenta oil; pine oil; pennyroyal oil; rose absolute; rosewood oil; rose oil; rosemary oil; Dalmation sage oil; Spanish sage oil; sandalwood oil; celery seed oil; spike lavender oil; Japanese anise oil; styrax oil; tagetes oil; fir needle oil; tea tree oil; turpentine oil; thyme oil; Tolu balsam; tonka absolute; tuberose absolute; vanilla extract; violet leaf absolute; verbena oil; vetiver oil; juniper oil; wine lees oil; absinthe oil; wintergreen oil; ylang oil; hyssop oil; civet absolute; cinnamon leaf oil; cinnamon bark oil; and fractions thereof or constituents isolated therefrom;
The mixtures can be combined very well with other fragrances in various, different mixing ratios to give novel fragrance compositions, for example perfume oils.
These fragrance compositions can be used in so-called perfumed products, such as, for example, household products, bodycare and perfumery products.
Particularly preferred perfumed products, are, for example, alcoholic fine perfumes, washing powders, soft rinses, soft rinse cloths, surface cleaners, toilet cleaners, rinses, all-purpose cleaners, disinfectants, polishes, glass cleaners, washing-up liquids, air fresheners, shampoos, conditioners, hair colourants, deodorants, antiperspirants, solid and liquid soaps, body lotions, skin creams and waxes.
The mixtures of the individual fragrances are prepared in the ratios 100:0, 80:20, 60:40, 40:60, 20:80 and 0:100%.
An independent trained group of experts made up of at least 12 persons (tester group) assesses the intensities of the individual samples and the detection limit thereof.
In all examples the samples were coded with combinations of letters and numerals for the assessment. This coding is redone for each test. The samples are provided for smelling in different sequences.
The ratio of cis to trans in the 8-cyclohexadecen-1-one (10) used here was 3:7.
Perfume strips are dipped into the various mixtures and covered with plastic sleeves. All mixtures are prepared as a 50% (m/m) solution in isopropyl myristate. The testers smell and assess the strips. The samples are assessed on a scale of 1=odorless to 6=very strong odor.
An average is formed from the values obtained and plotted in a graph (
The synergy effects are clearly discernible in the diagrams. Virtually all mixtures have a higher intensity than the individual fragrances (0 and 100%, respectively). Certain ratios in each case have a particularly high intensity.
An example formulation for a perfumed shampoo is as follows:
Suppliers:
The following fragrances and musk mixtures are tested: 5, 11, 12, 10, 2:1 of 10:5, 2:1 of 12:11, 1:1 of 10:11, 3:2 of 12:5 and 4:1 of 12:10. All fragrances and mixtures are used as a 50% (m/m) solution in isopropyl myristate as perfume oil.
The various musk mixtures are incorporated in the indicated amount in the shampoo composition for perfuming.
All use steps of a shampoo are assessed in the sensory evaluation. For this purpose 10 g aliquots of the shampoos are filled into screw-cap tubes. 20 g of 20% (m/m) aqueous solution is also prepared from each of the shampoos. In each case two hair strands that have previously been washed until neutral are washed for 2 minutes in 100 ml of a 20% (m/m) solution and then rinsed for 20 s under hand-hot, running water. The hair strands are combed and in each case one is wrapped wet in aluminium foil and the other is hung up to dry.
At least 12 trained testers assess the intensities of the coded samples in varying sequence. The dry hair is assessed first, then the wet hair, the solutions and finally the pure shampoos.
The samples are ranked on a scale of 1=odorless to 6=very strong odor.
IV: Intensity of the dry hair strands
The mixtures of 10:5 in a ratio of 2:1, 12:11 in a ratio of 2:1, 10:11 in a ratio of 1:1, 12:5 in a ratio of 3:2 and 12:10 in a ratio of 4:1 have the highest intensities from the perfumed shampoo in use.
Perfumes that are exceptional from the hedonistic standpoint and achieve a superior perfume impression are produced with these musk mixtures as fragrances.
The assessment of the perfume is carried out from perfume strips. For this purpose perfume strips are dipped into 50% (m/m) solutions of the fragrances or mixtures in isopropyl myristate. The headnote corresponds to the first odor impression and is assessed immediately. The base or also the heartnote develops only after a few minutes (5-10 min.) and accordingly is described later. The assessment of the perfume is carried out by two perfumers.
Individual Substance 10:
The fragrance has a musk type with slight ambrette note, good radiation and unmistakable nitro musk note. The latter provides sweetness, has a positive influence on flowery aspects and provides good adhesion. An animal aspect is pleasantly discernible, without particularly standing out.
Individual Substance 12:
Like individual substance 10, this musk fragrance has a typical nitro musk note (similar to musk ketone, musk xylene) with a slight ambrette note. The term ambrette-like or an ambrette note signifies the similarity to ambrette absolute or musk seed oil. The nitro musk note imparts additional strength, fullness and powderiness to the fragrance.
Individual Substance 5:
This fragrance has a distinct ambrette-like note that is found to be very stirring. This radiation has a particularly positive effect on flowery chords. A not particularly pronounced adhesion and a discrete animal aspect are discernible.
Individual Substance 11:
The odor of 11 is closely related to that of 5, but differs in the somewhat more robust perfume character and better adhesion. The radiation is the same as that of 5, but a waxy subsidiary note is clearly discernible and gives rise to strength, adhesion and sweetness.
Mixture of 10 with 5 in a Ratio of 3:2:
As a result of the addition of 5, this musk chord acquires a more natural character (similarity to musk seed oil), in addition to the pleasant nitro musk note. The radiation is intensified compared with the individual substances. A flowery sweet note is discernible.
Mixture of 10 with 11 in a Ratio of 3:2:
The musk combination radiates a more natural character than 10. The subsidiary note from 11 in combination with the sweetness of the nitro musk note leads to an adhering fullness and strength that cannot be found in this way in the individual substances.
Mixture of 10 with 12 in a Ratio of 3:2:
Both musk fragrances have a typical note of nitro musk that is further intensified by the combination. In this way a strong powdery nature with animal subsidiary note is produced. The fragrances complement one another ideally in perfume oils in which this effect is desired.
Mixture of 12 with 5 in a Ratio of 3:2:
In contrast to the mixture of 10 with 12, this combination shows more strength and natural character in the headnote, without the nitro musk note typical of 12 being lost. The mixture shows strong adhesion and sweetness.
Mixture of 10 with 11 in a Ratio of 3:2:
Similarly to the mixture of 12 with 5, this combination also proves to have a strong and natural headnote. It displays a typical nitro musk note with sweetness and powderiness in the base. Headnote and radiation of the mixture are increased in comparison with the individual substances.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 101 52 992.9 | Oct 2001 | DE | national |
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP02/11472 | 10/14/2002 | WO |
